AIB Corporate Banking

AIB - Irelands leading Corporate Bank

to Foreign Direct Investment
Diarmuid ONeill
Head of Corporate Banking Ireland
AIB Corporate Banking
Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4
Tel: +353 1 641 4808
Email: diarmuid.e.oneill@aib.ie
www.aibcorporate-fdi.com
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Ofce: Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173
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We have a dedicated unit focused on Foreign Direct Investment
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move as simple as possible.
In an increasingly complex business world, AIB Corporate
Banking still believes in keeping it personal.
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Features
28 THE IRISH HOPEFULS Team Ireland are
of to London 2012; Ian ORiordan talks
to fve athletes and chef de mission Sonia
OSullivan about going to the Games
41 LONDON FOR THE OLYMPICS The city is
buzzing this summer resident Tilly Culme-
Seymour picks the best Olympics sideshows
44 FRENCH LESSONS Writer Tana Frenchs
new thriller hits the shelves this month
Bridget Hourican meets her
50 HIGH & MIGHTY For Irish author Alison
Jameson, Chicago is a home from home;
she explains why its her favourite place
62 DUBLIN IN THE SUMMER Culture, cycle
routes, kids outings and foodie hotspots
four Dubliners show us their city highlights
73 THE GREEn dREaMPhotographer and
writer Roger Norum visits the Basque city
of Vitoria-Gasteiz, this years European
Green Capital
Contents July
News
04 ARRIvALS Its holiday time we
meet Aer Lingus passengers at
Dublins T2
07 NEwS DIARY Dont miss these
events Julys places to be
08 NEwS HOTELS FromDonegal
to NewYork, we have smart
places to stay
10 NEwS RESTAURANTS Foodie
treats; Eoin Higgins reports
12 NEwS SHOPPINg Gadgets
to go holiday musts from
Sive OBrien
14 NEwS BUSINESS Smart
Traveller: Paris to do the
deal? Sally-Anne Cooney knows
the city well
16 NEwS PEOPLE Whats in my
Suitcase surfer Fergal Smith
packs his board
18 NEwS BEAUTY TOgO Nails
at the ready! Ellie Balfe has the
latest shades
20 NEwS PEOPLE On My
Travels Jonathan Wallace on his
adventures abroad
22 NEwS BOOkS Travel reads for
holiday makers; Bridget Hourican
has it all
24 NEwS DIARY Vienna for art
(and cofee) lovers writer
Mary Russell pays a visit
26 NEwS DIARY Get set for
Edinburgh Arts Festival; Edel
Cofey chooses the highlights
regulars
83 AN INSIDERS gUIDE TO
MALLORCA Helen Cummins,
editor of abcmallorca, picks her
top spots
86 48 HOURS INBRUSSELS Streets
ahead Tony Clayton-Lea visits
the bustling city
89 AERLINgUS INFLIgHT Whats
on for July movies, music and
infight information
112 TRIP OF A LIFETIME
Author Monica McInerneys
frst encounter with snow
86
Greek
splendour
62
Summer in the city
12
83
Island
paradise
73
Basque
brilliance
Bags of fun
EDITORIAL
Editor Frances Power
Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins
Editorial Consultant Laura George
Editorial Assistant Carlynn McCarthy
Contributors Sive OBrien, Amanda Cochrane,
Ellie Balfe, Suzie Coen
ART
Art Director Clare Meredith
Acting Art Director Joanne Murphy
ADVERTISING
Account Director Clodagh Edwards
00353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie
Advertising Manager Nolle OReilly
00 353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie
Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan
00 353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie
ADMINISTRATION
Head of PR&Promotions Linda McEvitt
00 353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie
Ofce Manager Tina Koumarianos
Accounts Olga Gordeychuk
Accounts Assistant Lisa Dickenson
BOARDOF DIRECTORS
Managing Director &Publisher
Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie
Chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone
Director Ann Reihill
Director Robert Power
PRINTINGBoylan Print Group
ORIGINATIONTypeform
Caramagazine is publishedon behalf of Aer Lingus by Image
Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, CoDublin,
Ireland, 00353 (0)1 2808415; advertising sales, 00353 (0)1
271 9625; fax 00353 (0)1 2808309; image.ie, email info@
image.ie. Company registration number 56663
Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial
material and opinions expressed in Cara Magazine do
not necessarily refect the views of Aer Lingus or Image
Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and Image Publications Ltd
do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.
Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions
will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright
and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or
part is prohibited without prior permission fromImage
Publications Ltd.
Cara Magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.
Image Publications Ltd is a member of the Press
Council of Ireland and supports the Ofce of the Press
Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit
pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie
Image Publications Ltd
PUBLISHINGCOMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010
TOADVERTISE
PLEASE CALL NOLLE OREILLY ON00 353 (0)1 271 9621
OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE
Contributors
IAN ORIORDAN, athletics correspondent
with the Irish Times, will report on his fourth
Olympics this year at London 2012. He has
run several marathons, including London,
in April, as a sort of preview of the likely
Olympic atmosphere. The range of Irish
athletes qualifed for London is captured in
his feature for Cara this month, page 28, from
boxer Darren ONeill, who narrowly missed
Beijing four years ago, to race walker Olive
Loughnane, whose dedication takes her to
a fourth Olympics. With London the next
best thing to a home Games, he says, the
athletes anticipation is tinged with special
excitement and the unique pride that comes
with being an Olympian.
Dublin-based photographer RICHARD
GILLIGAN works on a wide range of
international editorial, advertising, music
and fashion commissions. With his roots
based frmly in documentary photography
he tends to treat each job with an open and
natural approach and his shoot for Cara
was no diferent. The diverse characters
he photographed for Dublin in Summer,
see page 62, were, he says, a laid-back and
inspiring gang. His frst book, which is being
released through French publishers 19/80
Editions this September, features a series
of photographs about homemade
skateboard parks shot in diferent locations
around the world.
After 15 years in advertising, ALISON
JAMESONdecided to ditch the high heels and
the nine-to-fve life. She has since written three
books, one of which was nominated for the
IMPAC award. For Cara magazine this month,
she writes about Chicago, see page 50, one of
her favourite places on earth and home to her
best friend. Writing about the city made me
homesick for those gorgeous neighbourhoods
and needing a Hot Doug. Im already planning to
visit the city again this year for a winter break.
In the meantime, shes loving the writers life and
is currently living in Portland, Oregon with her
husband and their three-year-old son, and will
return to her usual base in Dublin next year. Her
new novel, Little Beauty, will be published by
Doubleday Ireland in April 2013.
AUGUST 2011 | 1
July 2012
COMPLIMENTARYCOPY
SWIMMER GRINNE MURPHY AND TEAMIRELAND AT THE OLYMPICS
UP, UPANDAWAY
WhyChicagois theplacetobe
SUMMERINDUBLIN
Get thelowdownfromthelocals
BASQUEINGLORY
Discover anecoparadise
INSIDERSGUIDE
Thebest of Mallorca
FLYINGVISIT
48hoursinBrussels
PLUS
Edinburgh, Vienna
&London
Going for gold
ON THE COVER
Grinne Murphy photographed
by Trevor Hart, assisted by Sylvie
Cordenner. Make-up by Christine
Lucignano for Chanel using the
Summer 2012 Collection.
4 | JULY 2012
Arrivals
Its summer and the skies are full of holiday
makers. Cara magazine was at T2 in Dublin
Airport to greet some of them as they came
home. Photographs by Anthony Woods.
First time visitor ANNE CARLINand
her boyfriend, NATHANIEL CRIDER,
are here to see the sights in Dublin and
party at the Galway Arts Festival.
Primary school
teacher, JANE
McWALTER, right,
is back in Ireland for
three weeks for a family
wedding. She can t wait
to catch up with loved
ones.
Rather than rest on
their laurels during
their holiday in Galicia,
CATHERINE WOGAN,
left, and friend, MARY
KEOGH, right, walked
the renowned Camino
de Santiago.
ANDREA BEAUMONT, left, and
her mum, MAUREEN, have just
returned fromvisiting family near
beautiful Lake Geneva.
The REGALADOFAMILY
and their friend, MARIOADAN
BUENO, far right, from Santiago de
Compostela, have come to Ireland
to hear some live music and see the
famous cobbled streets of Dublin.
NAHUEL
UHLIG, left, his wife
MELANIE, far right,
and son LUCAS,
centre, are returning
from a friends
wedding in oh-so
romantic Provence,
where they ate,
drank and basked in
the French sunshine.
W
O
R
D
S
B
Y
C
A
R
L
Y
N
N
M
c
C
A
R
T
H
Y
SUSANPIETROPAOLI, left, and daughter KELLY,
right, from Maryland in the US are here to celebrate
Kellys graduation and get in touch with their Irish roots.
The gals are looking forward to seeing Galway city and
Killarney in Co Kerry.
Cheeky chappies, JACK OBEIRNE,
left, and , TOMPAMERSON right, are
homeward bound after a fun-lled
weekend in London.
Every great city has an iconic store.
A store which celebrates luxury, creativity, service and the
very best Irish and international brands since 1849.
WELCOME
TO
BROWN THOMAS
CARA corporate ADVERT2:CARA MARVEL 08/06/2012 14:19 Page 1
Blarney Castle & Gardens
Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Irelands greatest chieftains.
Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round
>
5 miles from Cork
>
Open Monday- Sunday 9-6
www.blarneycastle.ie
>
info@blarneycastle.ie
july 2012 | 7
Whats happening dates for your diary
4
Underground Catwalk 2012, Berlin
Fashion goes underground at this
runway show. Labels and designers
showcase their latest wares on a
moving underground train beneath the
streets of Berlin. If fast-paced design at
the cutting edge (over 18s only, please)
piques your interest get your tickets
online at eventim.de. Tickets from 15;
underground-catwalk.com
Aer LingUs FLIes From DuBLIn
To BerLin DaILy.
5
Owen Walsh, nCADgallery, Dublin
The nCaDGallery plays host to
painter owen Walshs retrospective
exhibition, celebrating the unique vision
and style of one of Irelands premier
colourists. The Westport native, who
died in 2002, played a big role in
Dublins lively cultural scene. one to
catch. runs July 5 to september 8;
owenwalsh.com
13
Temple Bar Beatles Festival, Dublin
Beatlemania comes to town with
the Temple Bar Beatles Festival
(sponsored by aer Lingus). Guests
include the groups original drummer
Pete Best, John Lennons half-
sister Julia Baird, and former road
manager Tony Bramwell. expect their
greatest hits as played by some of
the top Beatles tribute acts. Here
comes the sun ... whatever the
weather! runs from July 13-15;
templebarbeatlesfest.com
22
Bray Air Display, Wicklow
The largest aviation event in Ireland is
back again. This year sees the return of
The Black Knights and their adrenalin-
pumping parachute jumps, the Blades
aerobatic pilot group and a nifty
homebuilt BD5, a mini-jet that appears
in the James Bond movies. Pack a
picnic and watch the skies. Tickets are
free; brayairdisplay.com
neWs DiAry
July
28
Catalpa nyC, new york
Headlined by The Black Keys and Snoop Dogg,
there really is something for everyone at this NYC
festival DJs playing from the belly of a 30ft
fame shooter made by sculpture outft, Arcadia,
the loved-up can tie the knot in the 60ft infatable
Church of Sham Marriages, left, while foodies can
browse the gourmet food stalls. Runs July 28-29.
Tickets from $99.99; catalpanyc.com
Aer LingUs FLIes From DuBLIn To neW yOrk DaILy anD From
sHannon To neW yOrk mon, WeD anD FrI.
street Performance
World Championship,
Cork and Dublin
If youre in the mood
for amphibian antics,
acrobats and sword-
swallowing space
cowboys, get yourself
to the nearest leg
of the Street
Performance World
Championship.
Guaranteed
jaw-dropping
performances. At
Corks Fitzgerald
Park, July 14 and
15 and Dublins
Merrion Square,
July 19-22; spwc.ie
14
8 | july 2012
news hotels
the sAnDhoUse, DoneGAl
It made news headlines in March when its
manager, Paul Diver bought it for a song, saving
jobs for the employees who fondly call it home.
And home is what it feels like when you step
through the doors to soft carpets, antique
furniture and an open fre. The welcome, in that
lovely Donegal accent, is warm from the staf
who are clearly happy to be there. The food is
very special and the view over Rossnowlagh
Beach, spectacular. Waiter service at breakfast
makes a welcome change. The Sandhouse
promises a unique experience with a character
and charm all of its own. Two nights B&B and one
dinner (with ocean view) is excellent value at 199
July and August. Rossnowlagh, Co Donegal, 071
985 1777; sandhouse.ie. Alison jAmeson
htel AmeRiCAno, new YoRK
If youve always fantasized about living like
a real (cool) New Yorker, Htel Americano
is the ultimate base camp. Nestled just
beside the breathtakingly botanical High
Line in the heart of Chelsea, this 56-room
boutique babe is the frst venture for the
ultra-trendy Mexican hotel Grupo Habita,
so expect zinger tequila-based cocktails on
the rooftop pool terrace as well as deftly
seasoned quesadillas and ceviche on the
back patio. Minimalist rooms come with
iPads loaded up with Latin chill, denim
loungewear and deli treats and theres
often live music in the bar downstairs.
Be sure to set aside ample time for
exploring nearby galleries and shops.
Rooms from $295. 518 West 27th Street,
001 212 525 0000; hotel-americano.com.
lAURA GeoRGe
Seeking character? Check out The Westin, Dublin nine of their rooms have been given a facelift by leading interior
designers, HBA London each room encapsulates the spirit of one of Irelands fnest famous writers. thewestindublin.com
Escape
Fancy rural romance, or city cool? Take your pick of this month's places to stay.
AeR linGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO new YoRK
DAILY AND FROM SHANNON, MON, WED AND FRI.
lA BAstiDe De moUstieRs, FRAnCe
Already a foodie mecca, Alain Ducasses inn, positioned
in the ridiculously romantic Alpes de Haute region in
Provence, has turned its culinary clout up a notch. The
Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms (twelve to be
exact) is ofering an intriguing new service to the rustically
inclined: Picnic in a Pickup. Guests are chaufeur-driven
in a beautifully restored 1950s Chevrolet pickup truck to
a secret, sun-drenched spot to enjoy a gourmet picnic of
local seasonal produce sourced from the markets in the
vicinity, or plucked from La Bastide de Moustierss own
vegetable and fruit garden. Rooms from 250; Picnic in
a Pickup is 190pp for a group of two to six. Chemin de
Quinson, Moustiers, Sainte-Marie, 0033 492 704 747;
bastide-moustiers.com
AeR linGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO mARseille, TUE, THUR AND SAT.
DoRset sQUARe hotel, lonDon
Married couple and top-class hoteliers Tim and Kit
Kemp have re-acquired one of their frst buildings,
the Dorset Square Hotel. The couple opened its
doors last month and showed of Kits signature
design stamp, bold colours, bespoke touches and
one-of pieces. You can see Kits belief that hotels
should be living things, not stufy institutions shining
through her work. The old country house has been
sculpted into the perfect example of organic English
contemporary design with bathrooms to-die-for
marble foors and real oak furniture, free-standing
showers and they even have heated towel rails.
Heaven! Rooms from 140. 39-40 Dorset Square,
Marylebone, 0044 20 7723 7874; frmdalehotels.com
AeR linGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN, SHANNON, CORK AND BELFAST
TO lonDon heAthRow DAILY.
10 | juLY 2012
Kenmare Food Carnival runs fromJuly 13-15. Expect artisan markets, tastings, and a mysterious Chocolate for Adults
event, hosted by smouldering French chocolatier Benoit Lorge; kenmarefoodcarnival.com
Food File
SADDLERS OF MAYFAIR, LONDON
A mere six-minute, appetite-whetting stroll from
fellowIrishman Richard Corrigans haunt in Londons
prestigious Mayfair, the ambitious Saddlers grill
room, opened by restaurant and hotel entrepreneur
Rory Smyth and his partner Maurice OCallaghan,
rifs upon a similar theme emphasising quality
ingredients, prepared in season and without
fuss. More specifcally, the highlight here is their
impressive Irish beef ofering each steak served
has been aged for a minimumof 35 days in the old
country and is wood roasted on a bespoke beech
grill. Head chef Matt Bishop has a noteworthy CV:
he began cooking at the age of 18 and has built his
repertoire working for Marco Pierre White, Gary
Rhodes and Gordon Ramsay to name-drop a few.
33 North Audley Street, Mayfair, London, 0044 207
629 7070; saddlersmayfair.co.uk
GARDEN CAF CATALONIA,
WASHINGTON DC
This already much-vaunted homage to Catalonia, in
the beautiful surroundings of the Garden Caf in
DCs magnifcent National Gallery of Art, has been
inspired by the exhibition Joan Mir: The Ladder
of Escape (on view until August 12). Away from the
superlative-laden surroundings, in the cafs kitchen,
Ferran Adra protg, Jos Andrs, left, (recently
featured on Time magazines 100 Most Infuential
People in the World list) has created a masterful
la carte and bufet ofering worthy of Mirs detailist
dollops. And the star of the show? Probably, the
value for money on display. With a bufet price of
$20.25 per head, this is sure to be a sell-out show.
Unmissable. 4th Constitution Avenue Northwest,
Washington, DC, 001 202 712 7454; nga.gov/dining
Teutonic vegetarianismand hearty gastro fare
in Cork, Eoin Higgins whets our appetite.
AER LINGuS FLIeS FROM DUBLIN, SHANNON, CORk
AND BeLFAST TOLONDON HEATHROWDAILy.
THE WOODFORD, CORK
Though narrowly missing out to the Roadside Tavern (Lisdoonvarna, Co Clare) in
the Irish Restaurant Associations coveted annual awards this year, the Woodford,
in Cork city, can still hold its head high when it comes to the Munster gastro pub
league tables. Located in the historically rich Huguenot Quarter of the city, the
building has a trading history dating back to the mid-18th century, when it was
owned by well-known Cork wine merchants, Woodford Bourne &Co. Food is
hearty, honest fare. Try the mussels with light ale, chorizo with chips, accompanied
by a delightfully strong aioli (12). The only slight negative on the menu is a dearth
of independent Irish craft brewers plenty fromfar afeld but that is not quite the
thing these days, is it? That niggling quibble aside, the Woodford is still worth a visit
however. Daunt Square, Cork, 021 425 3931; thewoodford.ie
PRINZ MYSHKIN, MuNICH
Described by a meat-fearing friend as possibly the best restaurant
Ive ever eaten in, the nattily turned out Prinz Myshkin is a vegetarian
Valhalla in the otherwise meaty metropolis of Munich. Try the
buckwheat crepes Florentine, light, nutty, and almost manically
addictive. Accompany with a calming and organic, Austrian St Laurent
fromthe thoughtfully composed wine list (quite posh but reasonable
enough value all the same). Drop by and see howlovely Teutonic
vegetarianismcan be. Hackenstrasse 2, Munich, 0049 89 26 5596;
prinzmyshkin.com
AER LINGuS FLIeS FROM DUBLIN TOMuNICH DAILy AND FROM CORk TO
MuNICH, TUe, THUR AND SAT.
AER LINGuS FLIeS FROM DUBLIN TOWASHINGTON VIA BOSTON
(WITH JeTBLUe) DAILy AND FROM SHANNON TOWASHINGTON VIA
BOSTON (WITH JeTBLUe), TUe, THUR, SAT AND SUN.
Sourced locally.
Planted seasonally.
Grown to order.
Farm to plate.
ely wine bar, 22 Ely Place, Dublin 2
ely bar & brasserie, IFSC, Dublin 1
ely gastro pub, Grand Canal Square, Dublin 2
book online or call + 353 1 633 9988
www.elywinebar.com
ely ad for Cara July 2012 ART.indd 1 13/06/2012 17:13
TOGO
NEWS SHOPPING
Its holiday time so ease your way into some
fun in the sun with these nifty must-haves.
By Sive OBrien.
12 | JULY 2012
6
Gadgets
4
7
1o
5
9
3
2
8
1
1 EYEZONE MASSAGER 18 at prezzybox.co.uk
2 INFLATABLE SOFA Bloeld, 560 at madeindesign.co.uk
3 FOLD-UP BICYCLE Dahon, 725 at giftgenies.com
4 TRAVEL SPEAKER Memorex Mi2290, 85 at amazon.co.uk
5 RADIOBINOCULARS Tasco, 36 at beststu.co.uk
6 WATERPROOF IPAD2 CASE Dripro, 36 at i-DesignGenius.com
7 WATERPROOF WASH BAG Paul Smith, 138 at paulsmith.co.uk
8 FLASH CAMERA Lomography, 90 at urbanouttters.co.uk
9 CAMPER VAN TENT 370.09 at rebox.com
10RECHARGEABLE SEASCOOTERBladesh, 423 at giftgenies.com
14 | JULY 2012
NEWS BUSINESS TRAVEL
Savvy places to do business Paris? Best business lunches in Prague? Lisa Hughes reports.
Smart TRAVELLER
1
ARTISAN RESTAURANT & CAF
Artisan is known for its huge portions
and array of international cuisine,
including a great oering of local wines.
This restaurant wont bite too much out of
your expenses and, with its dimmed lights
and overall romantic feel, is a classy joint
to bring clients to, even just for a coee.
(Rosickych 603/4, 00 420 257 218 277;
artisanrestaurant.cz)
2
CAFPALACEJust o Vaclav
Square, Caf Palace is elegant and
comfortable. The caf oers business
lunch from11am-3pmon weekdays and
main courses fromaround 225 CZK(8.75).
Theres also a selection of Ayurvedic drinks
for the health-conscious traveller. (At Hotel
Palace Praha, Panska 12, 00420224 221 240;
vi-hotels.com/palace)
3
LA TORRETTA PIZZERIA AND
RESTAURANT For a less formal
business gathering, treat your
clients to this classic but highly rated
local pizzeria. Open from 11am- 11pm, La
Torretta serves aordable Italian classics
in a rustic setting. (Moskevsk 56, 00 420
271 720 01; latorretta.cz)
4
SIDDHARTA CAF Siddharta is a
trendy restaurant/bar and lounge
with a contemporary menu to boot.
Intimate enough to guarantee privacy for
your meeting, the Orient-inspired setting
is also funky enough to inspire a creative
meeting. (At Buddha-Bar Hotel, Jakubsk
649/8, 00 420 221 776 404;
buddha-bar-hotel.cz)
5
COMO RESTAURANT & CAF
Comos small terrace is a prime
spot for getting down to business.
Youll nd well prepared grub, served
in a spacious modern restaurant. Main
courses, such as Gnocchi with Bolognese
Ragout, cost about 165 CZK (6. 40).
(Vclavsk nmesti 45,
00 420 222 247 240; comorestaurant.cz)
5 BEST BUSINESS
LUNCHES INPRAGUE
As general manager of Gilbeys,
Irelands largest wine company,
Sally-Anne Cooney travels to
France for work at least once a
month so its no surprise that Paris
is her favourite city for business.
Why Paris is great for
business travellers
I travel on business usually
once or twice a month to
wine-producing regions and
Paris is perfect because
I can combine multiple
meetings with our producers
Bordeaux, Champagne,
Burgundy and the Rhone
are all so accessible with
the TGV.
Best business hotel
I would recommend The
Hotel Mercure, Place
Vendme (mercure.com).
It is a small, 20 room hotel
ideally situated near Place
de lOpera . Rates are
reasonable, Wi-Fi is free and
the location is central.
Best place for business
meetings The Hotel Le
Bristol on Rue du Fauberg
Saint Honor (lebristolparis.
com) by the Champs-lyses
is very central and has
beautiful meeting rooms. It is
within walking distance to the
Muse dOrsay and Tuileries
Gardens for a post-meeting
wind- down.
Best for business lunch
Nothing beats
exploring the little
cafs and bistros
of the Parisian
back streets. A
personal favourite
is Les Papilles on
Rue Guy Lussac
in the 5th a tiny
bistro run out
of a wine shop
with only a few
small tables and
no menu one
meal is served and the food is
always memorable. The
last time I had endive soup,
Boeuf Bourguignon and a
petit but fabulous cheese
pairing with g compote.
Delicious.
Best spot for business
drinks Le Fumoir in
the 1st Arrondissemont is
an uber-chic venue for a
post-meeting cocktail and
a perfect place for people
watching. The big wooden
bar and comfortable sofas
have a vintage, smoking
room feel. Its just around
the corner from the Louvre
so you can get your cultural
fix on the way.
Whats tipping like? Tipping
is a must and 10-15 per cent
generally keeps the notorious
French waiters happy!
Doing business in Paris for
the rst time A good pair
of at shoes is a must for Paris
as walking is the best way to
explore and get from A to B!
On your downtime Take
a walk through the Jardin
du Luxembourg, which is
spectacular in autumn.
Always take the time to sit and
enjoy a good glass of wine and
soak up the atmosphere of
whatever city you are
visiting.
LITTLEBLACKBOOKPARIS
Designed to deliver a rich sound experience,
even in large indoor and outdoor spaces, the
Big Jambox is perfect for making conference
calls in hotel rooms or anywhere with a bit
of background hustle and bustle. And at just
1.2kg, the speakers won t weigh down your
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16 | july 2012
Whats in my suitcase
Mayo-born international surfer Fergal Smith is making serious
waves worldwide. With plenty of record-breaking surfs in
far-fung shores including Fijiand Tahiti under his board, the
24-year-old is no stranger to a jetset lifestyle. He tells
Suzie Coen the travel essentials he cant live without.
P
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b
y

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high Life,approx 68 at
shadedaddy.com
sURFBoARD
Dh Surfboards,price on
request at dhsurfboards.com
sURFBoARD Fins
Future Fins, from 60
at jamieknox.com
seXwAX original
formula, from 2 at surf
shops nationwide
sUReshot
scotch plAiD
BAckpAck
gravis, 64.95 at
planet-sport.de
cAmoFlAGUe pRint
wAllet analog 34.10
at surfdome.com
the time telleR
wAtch Nixon, 79
at timely.com
Roc soleil pRoteXion
sUnscReen 18.25 at
pharmacies nationwide
t-shiRt analog, 27.79
at surfdome.com
GReen shoe
gravis, 54.95 at
planet-sport.de
Why travel far
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18 | JULY 2012
MY BEAUTY MUSTS
A much sought-after
make-up artist,
Mary Greenwell
works with
film stars,
supermodels
and top
photographers.
She regularly
travels on shoots here
she shares her beauty tips.
GO WITH THE OLD RELIABLES My
favourite sun-care products are by
Sisley. They have very high SPF for
both face and body, and disappear into
the skin without leaving a white lm.
What we all tend to forget is that sun
protection products must be applied
every couple of hours. Once in the
morning is not enough!
I am using Yves Saint Laurents
Forever Youth Liberator skin-care
range at the moment. The lotion
feels fabulous and the day cream
has SPF 15, which is perfect
for most climates unless you
are in very hot sun. At night I
always use Este Lauder Night
Recovery, and right now I am
using Sublimage Ultimate Skin
Regeneration by Chanel, which
I love. I always use Kiss Mix lip balm by
Eve Lom as I nd my lips get very dry at
night, especially when travelling.
TAKING COVER When I reach the
beach, I cant do without a huge beach
towel, a great big hat and lots of pieces
of fabrics to wear especially across my
shoulders and chest. I apply loads of high
SPF sun cream; the older I get the more
I feel the sun burning and it is incredibly
ageing to have a sun tan after a certain
age. A glow is lovely but denitely not a
deep tan.
MY FAVOURITE DESTINATION Lamu,
an island o the coast of Kenya, on the
Equator. Its hot, mysterious and romantic.
IN SEARCH OF SOMETHING NEW
When I am travelling for work, Im always
on the hunt for new products. France
denitely has the best pharmacies in
the world. Just snooping around is so
exciting, and the biggest thing I stock up
on are Upsa Chewable Vitamin C, so
delicious you can eat them like sweets.
Most skin-care lines are global but its still
possible to nd something regional, such
as lovely soaps.
NEWS BEAUTY
4
Manicure maven
Sally Hansen
answered many
polish fans prayers
with the launch of
her Complete Salon
Manicure
system. Base
coat, colour
and topcoat in
one provide
an eortless
option for
nails on the
go. Colour-
wise Sally
comes up
trumps
each season too. Calypso
Blue, 8.95,
is the perfect
poolside
shade.
5
Heres
a great
idea
from Max
Factor: its
mini nail
polishes
are a
travellers dream as well
as a great solution for
the indecisive beauty
shopper. Cool Jade,
4.99, is a neat nod to
the pastel green trend
adorning nails-in-the-know
right now.
6
NARS
Schiap,
18, is
a hot fuchsia
designed as
homage to Elsa
Schiaparelli,
the Italian
fashion
designer who had it as
her signature shade. The
polish is highly colour
saturated with an intense
shine one thats meant
to be noticed.
BeautyONTHE GO
Harnessingpeats preservingproperties, gra(meaningyouth) is anewIrishskin-care
range derivedfromour native bogs. All these rejuvenatingminerals helptoheal and
nourish, makingfor afve-star anti-ageingrange; after all, OldCroghanManwas
preservedalmost perfectly for 2,500years inabog!
1
Chanel devotees await
the arrival of a new
seasons shades with
bated breath and rightly
so. Always
current and
permanently
chic, the brand
has seen a
huge rise in
waiting lists
for its sell-
out shades.
Holiday, 22,
is a perfectly
judged, orange-based
red to complement sun-
kissed hands.
2
Exotic brights are
the only
way to
go for summer
and Catrice,
2.79, has
every colour of
the spectrum.
Twist of Lemon
is a particularly
pleasing and
zesty yellow from the
latest Coolibri collection
an haute couture colour
at a prt--porter price.
3
Previously an
unusual choice,
orange polishes
have made their
presence known in
recent times and Yves
Saint Laurents
Orange
Afrique,
24, is quite
possibly the
best loved
hue around.
Warm and
opulent,
this shade is
here to stay.
One to bag.
P
H
O
T
O
G
R
A
P
H
B
Y
C
A
C
H
A
R
E
L
Theres a rainbow of striking nail shades available this
season. Ellie Balfe guides you through the hottest hues.
18 | JULY 2012
Kildare Village
WHERE EXCEPTIONAL VALUE
is always in style
M7 Motorway to Exit 13. Sat Nav: N 53 9 16 W 6 55 2 Regular train and coach services from Dublin
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iscover Irelands only luxury outlet shopping
destination, offering savings of up to 60%
*
all
year round, less than an hour from Dublin city.
Home to more than 60 international designer labels and a
restaurant overlooking the ruins of thirteenth-century Grey
Abbey, Kildare Village has all the ingredients of a great day
out. The open-air promenade winding through the Village
is an idyllic setting for shopping designer brands and this
July it will be the backdrop for the Chic Summer Festival,
a month-long, free celebration of music, food and fashion.
Highlights include a spectacular foral catwalk by master
forist Joe Massie, Irish artisan food producers, genealogy
experts, music and unique open-air performances.

While in the region explore the heritage town of Kildare,
St Brigids Cathedral and round tower or hop on the Kildare
Village courtesy bus to the nearby Irish National Stud
and Gardens. Kildare Village and the charm of Irelands
thoroughbred county: time and money well spent.
MORE THAN 60 BOUTIQUES
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STRAP
20 | july 2012
Concierge and lifestyle guru Jonathan Wallace opens up his travel
journal to Suzie Coen, revealing his most memorable jaunts.
No mATTeR wheRe I TRAvel, my heART
beloNgS IN ... Africa. In our teens, my
brother and I were dragged kicking and
screaming to go and live in Zimbabwe,
where our step-father had a teaching post.
But we soon realised we were on a brilliant
adventure and we both fell in love with the
place. It was a teenagers paradise great
climate, vast open plains, amazing wildlife
and relaxed, out-door living.
beINgPoSTed ToPARIS wAS Such AN
excITINgexPeRIeNce ... As a trainee hotel
manager, I lived in the 5th arrondissement and I
used to walk to work through some of the most
beautiful parts of the city up to the Left Bank,
through the Tuileries Gardens and up to a little
side street just of the Champs Elyse to start
my shift. Its such a walk-able city and the caf-
culture is something I really miss.
FoRAculTuRe hIT, youcANT beAT ...
Rome. Its like being in a massive museum
because every street, square and piazza
you walk through is full of history and
astonishingly beautiful.
my lATeST NewyoRk FINd IS ... Hotel
Elyse at 60 East 54th Street. Its a discreet,
charming, welcoming, and brilliantly located
boutique hotel.
After twelve years in hotel managment in properties around the world, it seemed natural to
Jonathan Wallace to put his customer service skills to use in his own operation, encompass.
Based in Kinsale, Co Cork, encompass is a concierge and lifestyle management company,
which ofers a bespoke service. As travel is such a big part of Jonathans life, whether its
researching holidays, planning weddings, birthdays or other celebrations in exotic locations,
or organising once-in-a-lifetime adventures, its no surprise that his own wanderlust tales are
just as inspiring.
3gardenstodig
1
gIveRNy moNeTS gARdeNS
There are two parts to Monets
gardens at Giverny, left, in
France: a fower garden and a
Japanese-inspired water garden.
The two parts contrast and
complement one another; both are
idyllic havens. Open daily (April 1
to November 1, 2012) from 9.30am
to 6pm. giverny.org
2
wIcklowgARdeNS
Running April to September,
Wicklow Gardens ofers a
choice of visiting 33 gardens in the
Garden County and surrounding
counties Dublin, Kildare, Wexford
and Carlow. All are of outstanding
beauty, with many private gardens
being opened exclusively for the
duration. wicklowgardens.com
3
ARNold ARboReTum
gARdeN In 1872, Frederick
Law Olmsted established the
frst public arboretum in Boston.
His legacy is ingeniously dovetailed
into its surroundings, creating a
stunning composition of woods,
meadows and valleys. Guided
tours run throughout the month of
July. arboretum.harvard.edu
On my Travels
NewS PeoPle
A luxuRy holIdAy Tome IS ...
Staying in a fve-star hotel resort
where the children are as important
to the staf as you. The Four Seasons
hotel group know how to do this
very well, as we found out when we
stayed at their property in Bangkok.
Happy children mean happy and
relaxed parents.
Ive beeN oN mANy
AdveNTuRe holIdAyS buT I
wAS blowN AwAy by ... A canoe
safari down the Zambezi River,
where you camped underneath the
stars with nothing separating you
from the hippos but a mosquito
net. It was an amazing and humbling
experience, particularly when
we found crocodile tracks through
the middle of the camp the
next morning.
gReAT guIdeS cAN mAke youR
holIdAy ... While on honeymoon
in the Selous Game Reserve in
Tanzania we had an amazing guide
called Jackson. Hes the guy who
showed my wife and I how to: bake
bread in a termite mound, winch
a warm shower up in the middle
of the bush, tell the difference
between a lilac breasted roller and
a bee eater and calmly get off a
sand bank while being approached
by a curious hippo.
eveRy TRIP IS beTTeR wheN
Im... With my wife Maeve. We
have such a laugh and we both like
similar things in a holiday. We have
travelled together a lot but shes still
determined to take me to two of her
favourite places where she lived
Malaysia and Miami.
Twelve yeARS IN The
hoSPITAlITy INduSTRy hAS
TAughT me ThAT ... Good
manners and a smile cost nothing.
Contact our friendly Sales Team on: +353 1 856 0000 Email: sales@theccd.ie or visit: www.theccd.ie
In May we hit another signifcant milestone at The
CCD! We hosted our 500th event since opening in
September 2010.

In less than two years we have also won 11 Industry
awards, achieved ISO 9001 and 14001 accreditation,
and a customer satisfaction rating of 96%.

Find out for yourself why The CCD is the perfect
venue for your next event.

Over
Events so far...
22 | JULY 2012
Ancient Light by
John Banville (Viking,
16.99) Te elderly
actor Alexander
Cleave remembers
his teenage years in a
small town in 1950s
Ireland and his afair
with his friends mother the illicit
meetings in a rundown cottage, the
assignations in the back of her car.
With these early memories comes
something sharper and darker the
recollection of his daughter, Casss,
suicide ten years before. Banville
often arranges his books in loose
trilogies and Ancient Light is the third
book featuring Cleave, who appeared
in Eclipse (2000) and Shroud (2002).
Diary of a Nose by
Jean-Claude Ellena
(Particular Books,
Penguin, 12.99)
Ellena has a rarefed
profession hes
parfumeur exclusif (le
nez or the nose)
for Herms. How do you go about
creating a new scent? Guessing,
rightly, that for most people, this
is about as mysterious as the dark
Shelf LIFE
The latest Banville and engaging memoirs: Bridget Hourican previews the newreleases.
NEWS BOOKS
side of the moon, Ellena
kept a diary for a year
describing some of
the tricks of the
trade and where his
inspiration comes
from market
stalls, landscape,
calligraphy
(apparently all fve
senses come into
play when creating
a scent). He ends
with a few recipes. Tis
charming and lusciously
printed memoir was a bestseller
in France.
Whos reading what?
Author and director of the West Cork Literary Festival Denyse Woods on her summer choices.
WHAT ARE YOU READING
AT THE MOMENT? Mary
Russells delightful travelogue,
My Home is Your Home:
A Journey Through Syria.
A wonderful writer and
wonderful company. A lovely
way to revisit my own, too
short, time in Damascus. When
Mary describes grabbing a
strangers arm to get across a
busy (understatement) street,
I felt like grabbing her other
arm and forging into the
maelstrom with them! Ive
recently nished Ruth Padels
brilliant and unsettling
collection of essays and
poems, The Mara Crossing,
which should be prescribed
reading for anyone who
cares about this planet and
its creatures and especially
those who don t.
WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN
READING? Most recently in
the hot sunshine in the garden,
with swallows swooping and
trees shuffling in the wind.
DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE
PLACE FOR A HOLIDAY?
Can t do better than Yemen
for its people, culture,
spectacular scenery and
extraordinary architecture.
The old saying is true: Sanaa
must be seen, even if the
journey is long. For a lie-on-
the-rocks-with-a-book holiday,
I love Croatia. Fabulous
coastline, sea and swimming.
WHATS THE BEST BOOK
FOR A LONGFLIGHT? When
Im on the move, I like to read
about people on the move.
Travel writing is ideal, but ction
set in foreign parts goes well
with an airplane too. One book?
Travels with a Tangerine by
Tim Mackintosh-Smith.
Sublime prose, a good laugh,
and an extraordinary journey.
Meander, East
to West along a
Turkish River by
Jeremy Seal (Chatto
& Windus, 16.99).
Te fow of the
Meander river, or the
Byk Menderes,
from central Turkey into the
Aegean Sea is so indirect that it
has given the word meander to
the language. British travel writer
Jeremy Seal took to his canoe to
go with the fow, encountering
fora, fauna, history, locals, culture,
politics and industrialisation, all of
which fnd their way into this rich
narrative about one of the worlds
most historic regions. Seal,
unlike other travel writers, is
endlessly fascinated by just one
country this is his third, but
not his last, book on Turkey
and its people.
Walking Home by
Simon Armitage
(Faber, 16.99) In
summer 2010 Simon
Armitage decided to
walk the 256-mile
Pennine Way in
the reverse direction
to usual. Instead of going south to
north, he would start on the Scottish
side of the border and walk home
towards the Yorkshire village where
he was born. Travelling as a modern
troubadour without a penny in his
pocket, he stopped along the way to
give poetry readings in village halls,
churches, pubs and living rooms. Te
terrain is remote and wild, the people
tough and generous. A surprising
and moving look at a country you
thought you knew.
LOVE
POETRY?
Two poets are celebrated this
month: head to Co Kildare for the
Gerard Manley Hopkins festival (July
21-27; gerardmanleyhopkins.org) and
to Sligo for the Yeats Summer School
(July 29 to August 10; yeats-sligo.
com). Expect readings, poetry,
recitals, art exhibitions
and lectures.
Denyse Woods, who also writes
as Denyse Devlin, is the author of
ve novels, including the critically
acclaimed Overnight to Innsbruck.
She is also the artistic director of
the West Cork Literary Festival
(westcorkliteraryfestival.ie).
NEWBRIDGE SILVERWARE VISItoR cENtRE
Irelands Most Unique Visitor Destination
MUSEUM OF
STYLE
ICONS
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Experience the glitz of Hollywood for FREE at the Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre,
Irelands most unique visitor attraction. Home to the legendary Museum of Style Icons, showcasing
memorabilia from icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Princess Diana, Elizabeth Taylor,
Michael Jackson and many more. With great shopping, sumptuous food and the museums
outstanding permanent collection, this is a memorable experience for all visitors.
oPEN 7 DAYS, FREE ENtRY. PARKING FAcILItIES oNSItE.
Directions: Take the M7 from Dublin. Leave M7 at Junction 12 signed
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The Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre is 600 metres on the right.
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24 | july 2012
V
ienna is the smallest of
Austrias nine provinces
but within its 415 square
kilometres youll fnd some of
the most breath-taking art in
the world. And because 2012
marks the 150th anniversary
of the birth of one of the citys
celebrated bon vivants, who
took his pleasures from wine,
women and food, visitors should
head for two galleries which
show Gustav Klimts arrestingly
beautiful work: the Secession
Gallery (exhibition runs until
November 4; Friedrichstrasse 12,
0043 158 753 0721; secession.at)
and the majestic Kunsthistorisches
Museum (exhibition runs until
January 6, 2013; Maria-Theresien
Platz, 0043 1525 240; khm.at).
The Kunsthistorisches Museum
was built by the Hapsburgs
to house their own private art
collection and is now also known
as the Museum of Fine Arts.
Both galleries are within walking
distance of each other and located
close to the old city.
Te Secession Building,
built in 1898, was devoted to
the Secession movement, which
rejected the grandiose art of the
Renaissance in favour of the
more simplistic, less-adorned
approach of the modernists.
Its easy to locate because of
the large golden dome over its
entrance. Once inside youll
fnd Klimts mural depicting
Beethovens Ninth Symphony, with
its themes of hostility, yearning,
happiness and the greed of the
gorgons. Te account of how
the frieze, intended primarily
for a temporary exhibition, was
removed, reconstructed and
rehoused, is a story in itself. But
dont let that distract you from
the work.
Given Klimts weakness for
women, its interesting to see how
they are portrayed in the mural as
wantonness, lasciviousness and
intemperance. Freudian, you might
say, and yes, youd probably be right:
the citys most famous psychoanalyst
was a contemporary of Klimt.
Focusing as it often did, on
female nudes in suggestive
poses, Klimts work attracted many
accusations of being pornographic
and representing unnecessarily
explicit sex. Te fact that he was a
womaniser seemed to confrm this.
Although he never married, he
had a stream of relationships
with women, some of
whom were his models
although one lover,
Adele Bloch-Bauer,
was a member of
Viennas high society
and the subject
of many portraits.
His long-term
companion though
not, it is thought, his
lover was fashion
designer Emilie Flge.
In 1890, along with his
brothers who were also gifted
Klimts most
recognisable work,
The Kiss.
artists, he was commissioned to
do some in-fll paintings in the
grand staircase of what is now the
Kunsthistorisches Museum and
these are well worth a visit.
Klimts most popular work
is Te Kiss, which shows two
lovers intertwined among bedding
that glows in a golden light, and
is housed at the Belvedere Palace
(belvedere.at/en).
Klimt died aged 56, of
pneumonia, a consequence
of the fu epidemic that swept
through the city in 1919.
Following his death, 14
people came forward to
claim him as their father
though he acknowledged
only three children during
his lifetime, each having
one of his former models
as their mother.
Getting around: invest in a Vienna Card
(18.50) that gives unlimited travel for 72
hourson subways, buses and trams.
1
Caf DreChsler (Linke
Wienzeile 22; cafedrechsler.
at), left, when I visited had a
female server, a few dogs and
an interesting vegetarianoption:
spinach, creamed potatoes and a
fried egg. Here, new meets old. Sir
Terence Conran was drafted in to
give the place a facelift in 2007.
2
Caf Tirolerhof
(Fhrichgasse 8, just of
Albertina Platz) is one of
those cofee shops that has happily
been untouched by planners or
interior designers. Slightly shabby,
not a lot in the way of pastries but
just right for a quiet cofee. This
one is easily my favourite.
3
CafCenTral (Herrengasse
14) is a delight, with its papier-
mch representation of poet
Peter Altenberg who had a regular
table here, and its also where he met
up with modernist architect Adolf
Loos. I had a bowl of delicious spinach
soup and somewhere in the depths of
the caf, someone was playing a piano.
Viennesewhirl
The home city of painter Gustav Klimt has
plenty of attractions for art lovers wishing to
celebrate the 150th anniversary of his birth.
Writer Mary Russell reports.
3ofthebestviennesecoffeehouses
Ground
rules
There arearound 150classic
cofee houses in Vienna, so knowing
the formis important. First, sit at your
table and wait to be served. Awaiter
will come when hes ready, take your
order, deliver it and then leave you
alone to read, write, or simply
watch the world spin.
news Diary
BLARNEY WOOLLEN MI LLS
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Bl a r ne y , Co . Co r k , I r e l a nd
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Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Do v e Hi l l , Ca r r i c k o n S ui r , Co . Ti ppe r a r y , I r e l a nd
s ho p o nl i ne a t www. b l a r ne y . c o m
THE LARGEST IRISH SHOP IN THE WORLD
26 | juLY 2012
T
he Scottish capital, Edinburgh,
is a cultured city of
universities, medieval steeples
and spires. It is also the
home of one of Europes oldest and
fnest annual cultural events the
Edinburgh Festival.
While the Edinburgh Festival
Fringe (August 3-27) is the biggest
festival of its kind in the world, the
big daddy of the August calendar is
the Edinburgh International Festival
(August 9 to September 2), which
includes theatre, dance, opera, music
and visual art.
During August, seven festivals
take place in Edinburgh, including
the International Book Festival
(August 11-27) and the Royal
Edinburgh Military Tattoo (August
3-25). Each is run separately but,
thanks to coinciding dates, they
combine to provide an embarrassing
feast of cultural riches in the city.
Edinburgh International Festival
director Jonathan Mills says the
festival is unique because of the time
and the circumstances in which
it was founded. It began in 1947,
against the backdrop of bombed-
out Britain. Te atmosphere was
one of hardship and rationing and
the festival represented a beacon of
hope. Te festival was started in
part because people were deliberately
looking for alternatives to the horrors
they had just come through, he
explains. At the time, the Lord
Provost of Edinburgh said the
festival should be a platform for the
fowering of the human spirit.
Tat spirit of openheartedness
continues 65 years later and, despite
the festivals popularity with
audiences and artists alike, it doesnt
rest on its laurels, setting itself new
challenges every year. Tis year its
all about scale. Who says bigger isnt
better? Grzegorz Jarzynas 2008:
Macbeth is such a big production it
has to be staged at Scotlands largest
event venue. Tats one of my
Festival spirit
Dancers fromthe
National Ballet
of China waiting
to go on stage
at the Festival
Theatre during
the Edinburgh
International
Festival, 2011.
favourite things, without a doubt,
says Mills of the Polish production.
Its immense in every way.
Under the same roof at the Royal
Highland Centre in Ingliston, two
other important projects will take
place. One, Meine faire Dame, is
loosely based on My Fair Lady, and
the other is Ariane Mnouchkines
Les Naufrags du Fol Espoir (Aurores)
that runs for over four hours. Other
festival highlights include Janeks
opera, Te Makropulos Case, and
the Scottish Symphony Orchestras
performance of Beethovens Pastoral
symphony.
Barry McGovern will be fying
the Irish fag with Becketts Watt,
the same magical production which
ran at Dublins Gate Teatre two
years ago. Northern Irish playwright
Frank McGuinness will take part in
a panel discussion on the difering
voices of England, Ireland, Scotland
and Wales, while two of Sen
OCaseys one-act plays will be
performed in the fringe festival.
An estimated 900,000 people visit
the city during the festival, which
makes it very open and international,
says Mills, and, of course, full of
energy and excitement. Edinburgh
is small enough to walk around so
there is no need to hire a car but,
with so much on ofer, its hard for
the frst-time visitor to know where
to start. Millss advice is to see
something from every festival.
Get the brochures for each festival
and approach them like a form guide
at a race meeting. Compare the
oferings and just be daring, jump in,
immerse yourself, you only live once.
With tickets starting from as little
as 7, it would be rude not to.
For more information, see eif.co.uk.
1
KilKennyArts FestivAl
August 10-19 Irelands charming
medieval town of Kilkenny
plays host to its own arts festival,
left, nowin its 39th year. It has
expanded fromits original remit
of classical music to include
everything fromcraft and dance to
street performance; kilkennyarts.ie
2
BerlinFestivAl
september 7-8 Music festivals
that shirk from the traditional
format are gaining popularity. The
Berlin Festival in the Tempelhof
airport plays host to bands such
as Daughter, The Killers, Franz
Ferdinand and Sigur Rs. 81.40;
berlinfestival.de
3
lAtomAtinA, vAlenCiA
August 29 This beach party
hits all the right notes with
a line-up that includes De La Soul
and UK wordsmith, Ghostpoet. If
you get bored, you can hop on a
party boat and watch the sun set
over Murter Island. Tickets, 105;
Summer brings a feast of festivals to Edinburgh. Edel Cofey looks at whats on ofer.
3ofthebestARtsfestIVALs
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28 | JULY 2012
PEOPLE PEOPLE
T
hat moment, seven years
ago now, when London was
declared host city for the
2012 Olympics was greeted
with the rush of euphoria
that feels instantly life-
changing. And that was just
among the Irish athletes:
the rest of the world seemed pretty excited
about it too.
Te enduring realisation that Ireland
wont and cant possibly ever stage the
Olympics means, for us, that London
is defnitely the next best thing an
Olympics on our own doorstep, for the
frst and probably last time in most of
our lifetimes. Now that the moment has
turned into reality, its worth recalling
that Paris had been the frontrunner all
along, only overtaken by London in the
sprint fnish. Destiny, perhaps, because
our Olympic stars now seem perfectly
aligned, our team of athletes (sponsored by
Aer Lingus, the ofcial airline to the Irish
team) as well spread and prepared as any
previous Games, sprinkled with some juicy
medal prospects. Tat womens boxing was
added to the Olympic programme just in
time for London hasnt done our medal
prospects any harm either, and that its all
happening a short trip across the Irish Sea
means theres no great excuse for not being
there, even if left scrambling around for
whatever few tickets remain unsold.
Its going to be one of our largest
teams, ever, says Sonia OSullivan, and
defnitely the most sports weve ever had
represented.
OSullivans appointment as Irelands
Chef de Mission for London represented
a sort of head start, not just because of her
own experience of four Olympics: Cork
will always be home, but shes split her time
between London and Australia for much
of her life, so knows exactly what the Irish
athletes can expect come July 27.
Tere will always be some athletes
that perform better than before, says
OSullivan, and you will always have
athletes that dont. Te goal is to get a
bigger proportion of the team performing
at the level they qualifed, or higher. If we
do that I think we can be very successful.
Many expectations have been surpassed
already, with the largest number of
track and feld athletes ever qualifed on
A-standards including our frst womens
high jumper in Deirdre Ryan, and Tori
Pena, our frst representative in the pole
vault, man or woman. Rob Hefernan and
Olive Loughnane are both back for their
fourth Olympics in the race walk, while
there are several frst-time Olympians,
including gymnast Kieran Behan, Lisa
Kearney in womens judo, Hannah Craig
in kayak racing, and young swimmer
Grinne Murphy.
Ireland has only ever won 23 Olympic
medals, twelve of those in boxing and
once again boxing represents our best
hopes for London. Te three boxing
medals won in Beijing four years ago
one silver and two bronze could well
be bettered this time, even if Joe Ward
was one of the main casualties of the
ruthless qualifying process (pending
appeal). Paddy Barnes (bronze four years
ago) leads the charge again, along with
Michael Conlan, John Joe Nevin, Adam
Nolan, and Darren ONeill.
Ten theres Katie Taylor: after years of
campaigning, womens boxing is now part
of the Olympic programme, and Taylor has
been the best womens boxer in the world
Game
28 | JULY 2012
PEOPLE
Players
Irelands Olympic stars seem perfectly aligned as our athletes
prepare for the Games of a lifetime on our doorstep.
Ian ORiordan talks to ve members of Team Ireland and chef de
mission Sonia OSullivan about what London 2012 means to them.
Photographs by Trevor Hart.
JULY 2012 | 29
The Swimmer Grinne Murphy
Asking any 13-year-old athlete to move from her family home in
Wexford to the University of Limerick, adding in a 5am daily wake-
up call, might seem a bit severe, although Grinne Murphy never
saw it that way. No, I dont see any of it as a sacrifce. I get up early
every morning and go swimming, and I really love that. Limerick is
a nice environment too, like being around the Munster rugby team,
and I enjoy every day being around here.
Sacrifce or not, its already paid of: within a year Murphy won
a Youth Olympics bronze medal, and, in 2009, made a sensational
breakthrough with three gold medals at the European Junior
championships then seamlessly moved into the senior ranks in
2010 with two European short course bronze medals, in the 400m
and 800m freestyle (the latter her preferred event).
Now, at just 19, shes qualifed for her frst Olympics, her 8:31.14
last December well inside the A-standard of 8:33.84 for the 800m
freestyle although strictly speaking, Murphy has been to the
Olympics before: Yes, in 2008, the Olympic Council helped bring
two young athletes over to Beijing, she explains, just to watch,
get a feel for it. So I did actually get to experience some of the
Games, got to see one of the swimming sessions, which was great.
With a tight-knit support team that includes her mother Mary,
who also moved to Limerick to be with her, and Ronald Claes of
Swim Ireland, Murphy also got to test the new Olympic Aquatics
Centre in March: Swimming in the Olympic pool, thats when you
start to get excited. But then its really just a normal pool, like any
other. And it doesnt really matter that its London, so close to
home. Like any other Olympics everyone wants to compete at their
best, so it doesnt really make it any easier.
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30 | JULY 2012
people
I still feel privileged, says Olive Loughnane,
and believe it is still a great honour to represent
your country at the Olympics. Thats coming
from the heart because, at 36, Loughnane is
poised for her fourth successive Olympics, a
remarkable feat by any standards, especially in
an event as gruelling as the 20km walk.
Its something I still dream about, that drives
me on, she adds. I have a World Championship
medal from 2009, which means a lot to me, but
of course an Olympic medal is still the ultimate.
Thats coming from the head because, despite
her age, Loughnane is still capable of mixing it
with the best, one of Irelands few genuine medal
contenders in athletics. Seventh in Beijing four
years ago, she may well have saved the best until
last, and defnitely has the experience: it helps
too that in the last two Olympics, walkers aged
36 have stood on the medal podium in her event.
Ive had to change the focus of my training
a little, as you get older, because the recovery
from the harder training sessions does take that
little bit longer. But I still believe I am as mentally
tough, tougher, than everyone else, having been
through so much over the last twelve years, and
three previous Olympics.
In 2006 she took a break to give birth to her
daughter, Eimear, but London has always been
looming large: I still remember hearing when
London was chosen, and straightaway thinking,
Gosh, I cant stop now, Ill have to keep going for
that. It was a big motivation, even before I went
to Beijing in 2008, and fnished seventh. And if
half the people that are telling me theyre going
end up going then well have huge support. The
crowds do make a diference, when youre out
there slogging it out, every shout and cheer,
drives you on.
The Race Walker Olive Loughnane
for the past six years. Tat brings
inevitable pressure, although theres
nothing to suggest the 26-year-old
fromBray, Co Wicklow, cant handle
it. Tere are strong medal hopes too
for sailors Annalise Murphy and the
Star Class pair of Peter OLeary and
David Burrows and also back is
canoeist Eoin Rheinisch, who fnished
an agonising fourth in Beijing.
London has spared nothing in
getting the city ready, even if its
eventual Olympic budget is now in
danger of surpassing the 12 billion
mark, yet no one is entirely sure how
well its already stressed transport
system can cope. What is certain
is the venues are brilliantly user-
friendly, most of them built inside
the new 2012 Olympic Park, out
in the old industrial east, an area
Dickens himself would have once
found fairly unwelcoming.
When the site was formally handed
over to the London Organising
Committee it was essentially an
industrial landfll, some 250 acres
of contaminated soil, criss-crossed
with dozens of old electrical pylons.
It has been utterly transformed,
the centrepiece being the new
80,000-seater Olympic Stadium, and
also the Aquatics Centre, Velodrome,
plus the Basketball Arena. Other
venues are spread out elsewhere, the
boxing in the ExCel Arena down by
Canary Wharf, the rowing over at
Eton Dorney, and the sailing as far
south as Weymouth. Security will be
an issue too, at least for those in a hurry
to get around, with British Prime
Minister David Cameron describing
it as the biggest and most integrated
security operation in mainland Britain
in our peacetime history.
For the true Olympian, athlete or
spectator, thats a minor distraction,
when all that matters is being there.
Aer Lingus wishes the Olympic team
every success at London 2012.
For all information on venues and
remaining ticket sales, see london2012.
com; accommodation searches can be
done through visitlondon.com; and for
travel plans, see travel.london.com
32 | JULY 2012
PEOPLE
The Boxer Darren ONeill
I just had to decide myself whether to stick with it, or give it
up, says Darren ONeill, and hes not just talking about boxing.
A native of Paulstown, Co Kilkenny, ONeill is equally deft at
hurling, winning an All-Ireland title with St Kierans College back
in 2004 many of his team mates going on to win senior All-
Irelands with Kilkenny.
Since committing to boxing he has had other tough decisions to
make: he has fought at both middleweight and light heavyweight,
and narrowly lost out on an Olympic place for Beijing, at
middleweight, to the late Darren Sutherland, who went on to win a
bronze medal: I really thought I was in with a good chance to get
to Beijing, and after missing out, had to look again at where I was
going. Once I decided to stick with it, I committed to middleweight,
and London became the only goal, but I had to take it step by step.
The giant leap, however, came at the World Championships
last October, where ONeill became the rst Irish boxer to qualify
for London and at the same time was made team captain. Then
there was another tough decision: a teacher at Holy Trinity Primary
School in Donaghmede in north Dublin, he thought it was only fair
on himself, and his students, if he went full-time into boxing, at least
until London.
I enjoyed the teaching, as a release from boxing too, and took
a risk in leaving, as it wasn t a permanent post. It was a tough
decision, same as leaving the hurling, but boxing gave me more
personal satisfaction, I suppose. And an Olympic medal might
just surpass an All-Ireland medal with Kilkenny.
PEOPLE
32 | JULY 2012
JULY 2012 | 33 JULY 2012 | 33
34 | JULY 2012
people
The Sprinter Paul Hession
I missed being in an Olympic fnal the world record run by one place
and I dont want that to happen again, says Paul Hession, Irelands fastest
man and, at 29, still determined to go even faster. Four years ago in Beijing,
Hession fnished his Olympic 200m semi-fnal in ffth place, only the top
four making the fnal: so the next day he watched from the stands as Usain
Bolt blasted a then world record of 19.36 seconds. The Galway man could,
should, have been there, and thats what been driving him on in the four
years since citius, altius, fortius, with the emphasis on citius.
He has certainly trained harder than ever. With his medical studies
still on hold, he ran 20.51 last summer to qualify for these Olympics; yet
he knows only much quicker times will make the fnal. But the chance to
race alongside Bolt provides added motivation especially with the big
Jamaican poised to be Londons headline act. The entire world will be
watching, and Hession wants to be there.
Bolt really has transcended athletics. Everybody knows who he is. I
have run against him twelve or 13 times in my career and every time he has
brought a great pizzazz, a bit of life, to the sport that it really needs. If I
can repeat or just better what I did in Beijing, I can make the fnal. It is all
on the day. So little separates us all.
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36 | JULY 2012
PEOPLE
The Marathon Runner Mark Kenneally
Not many athletes qualify for the Olympics relatively late in the
career, then, to cap it o, are asked to carry the Olympic torch
through their home town. Good things come to those who wait,
and for Mark Kenneally, 31, London is just reward for a truly
marathon eort.
Obviously I was delighted with my time, says Kenneally,
the 2:13:55 he ran in Amsterdam last October well under the
2:15 A-standard for London. But then came the nervous wait,
wondering what other Irish runners might get the time, and if I
might need to run faster again. All I could do was keep training and
preparing as if I was going to the Olympics.
He neednt have worried: several others did try, and failed,
leaving Kenneally as Irelands sole mens marathon qualier, in
what is sure to be one of the most spectacular events in London
starting and nishing in front of Buckingham Palace.
Although also relatively new to marathon running, Kenneally
served his time successfully on the domestic track and cross-
country scene, with Clonlie Harriers, winning national titles in
both and was Irelands top nisher, in eighth, when the European
Cross Country was staged in Dublin, in 2009. Hes always balanced
sport with his career too a qualied physiotherapist, now running
his own practice in Celbridge, Co Kildare: Full-time training, all
year round, is not something Id relish. Having only one stimulus can
make you feel mentally stale, can be a bit boring.
JULY 2011 | 37
38 | JULY 2012
people
38 | JULY 2012
The Chef de Mission Sonia OSullivan
The fact that its London certainly makes it that bit easier, says
Sonia OSullivan, because I am so familiar with London, spend a
lot of time here, and know exactly how to get around. So it really
is home territory in that way. I think its a place the Irish athletes
can enjoy as well, plus being easier to travel out, acclimatise, and
having all the support they need, right here in place, can only help
them all be that bit more successful.
It seems a little strange that OSullivan is talking up our general
Olympic ambitions, rather than just her own, but her appointment
as Chef de Mission for the Irish team, the person who makes sure
all our athletes perform as smoothly as possible in London, was a
masterstroke: no one is better qualifed, in every sense, not just
because OSullivan, 42, has divided most of the last two decades
between her homes in London and Melbourne.
Cork will always be home, yet OSullivans familiarity with
the city of London, coupled with her immense experience of
competing in four Olympics, including the silver medal high of
Sydney, in 2000, makes her ideally positioned to ease any
fears an athlete might harbour going into the biggest event of
their lives.
Thats not saying everything will automatically go to plan, and
the Olympics, by their very gargantuan nature, will always throw up
challenges: I suppose the one big unknown really is the transport,
and how everyone gets around when all the crowds arrive in. You
dont have to worry too much around the Olympic Park, but if
youre trying to get out to Wembley, or the boxing, it will be a test,
defnitely the frst time, to see how it all works out. But I do think
London can handle it.
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july 2012 | 41
Its Londons year frst the Queens Diamond Jubilee and now the Games. But if
youre travelling to the Olympics, says resident Tilly Culme-Seymour, dont overlook
the host of cultural and foodie events on ofer.
Calling
London
L
ondoners have every excuse for feeling over the 2012 Olympics.
Te past 18 months alone, our patriotic feathers have been
rufed frst by the Royal Wedding, and then by the Queens
Jubilee. Weve had enough of banner waving and bank holidays.
Havent we? And now the eyes of the world will be on London yet
again. Te bustle of preparing for the arrival of world-class athletes,
and the accommodation and entertainment of supporters and
spectators, has already brought disruption on a grand scale; new
stadiums and housing on our back doorstep, repairs on the tube lines
making it harder to get to work the incentivising billboards urging
us to behave as cultural attachs are a bitter pill to swallow. Our stif
upper lip is trembling with over-fatigue.
Tus few would admit they are actually looking forward to the
Games. Its almost un-British. Londons own threaten to desert
faster than fnalists in the 100-metre sprint. But dig deeper and
youll fnd a kernel of excitement, whether of the more cynical
variety whacking their house on the short-term rental market
for top dollar or, um, innocent, like the friend of mine who has
won the ticketing lottery and bagged seats to womens volleyball.
Hes walking around like Charlie Bucket after fnding the Golden
Ticket, wide-eyed and rather shell-shocked.
Im staying in the capital, come what may. Te city will
be putting its best football boot forward after all. Tere will
be exhibitions, concerts, open-air cinema. Whats not to like?
Herewith, some of the highlights, from food to culture, that will
sustain me through the Games.
42 | july 2012
Above, the
Serpentine Gallery
Pavilion 2012,
the place to head
for talks, shows,
movies and more.
Foodies
An army or an Olympic team
marches on its stomach, and there
is nothing like a good breakfast and
super-strong cofee to begin the day.
Railroad Caf comes up trumps
for its no-nonsense menu, champion
brew and overall charm. An East
London gem. (120-122 Morning
Lane, Hackney, 0044 208 985 2858;
railroadhackney.co.uk)
Youre bound to need some
sugar after watching those athletes
compete. Gelupo the gelateria
afliated to Soho restaurant Bocca di
Lupo stays open until 1am, Fridays
and Saturdays and has a mouth-
watering catalogue of favours, from
sour cherry and ricotta to coconut
and chocolate sorbet. (7 Archer
Street, W1, 0044 207 287 5555;
gelupo.com)
Culture Vulture
Tis summer, the Serpentine
Gallery Pavilion in Kensington
Gardens has been designed by the
team responsible for the Beijing
National Stadium for the Olympics
in 2008, Herzog & de Meuron, in
collaboration with controversial
Chinese artist Ai Weiwei. Te
pavilion serves as a public space
and as a venue for cultural events
and talks. Well worth attending.
(Serpentine Gallery, Kensington
Gardens, W2, 0044 207 402 6075;
serpentinegallery.org)
At the Victoria and Albert
Museum ofshoot in East London,
Te Museumof Childhood, two
exhibitions, Beautiful Games and
Mascots of the Olympic Games,
explore the history of the Games. Get
the adrenalin pumping with a ride in
a virtual skeleton bobsleigh and fnd
out what makes an athlete successful.
Children are sure to
love this, and it
is a great way
to get them
actively
involved
in the
excitement. (Cambridge Heath
Road, E2, 0044 208 983 5200;
museumofchildhood.org.uk)
Movie afcionados will welcome
the re-release of Chariots of Fire in
cinemas in July. Tis quintessentially
British flm follows the trials and
tribulations of two athletes at the
1924 Paris Games. Teatre bufs
will prefer the adapted stage version,
playing at the Gielgud after a transfer
from the Hampstead Teatre. Stirring
stuf. (timeout.com/flm; gielgud.
london-theatre-guide.org.uk)
Opera Holland Park is a must
for music lovers. Highlights of
the summer programme include
Tchaikovskys Yevgeny Onegin
and Tobias Pickers Fantastic Mr
Fox, with a libretto by Donald
Sturrock based on the Roald Dahl
story, commissioned in 2010
especially for performance in the
park. (operahollandpark.com). Te
BBC Proms season opens on July
13 with the celebrated First Night.
Highlights during the Olympic
period include Prom no. 26, Bachs
Mass in B minor, and Prom no.28
when the National Youth Jazz
Orchestra will be playing.
(bbc.co.uk/proms)
ACtiVities
London Pleasure Garden Te
winners of the Mayor of London
and Newhams Meanwhile Project
are promising to transform Royal
Docks aka Te Olympic Last
Mile into an epic cultural
melting pot. Tere will be a concert
stage, landscaped walkways, a
guerrilla art-hotel and a foating
cinema among other attractions.
(londonpleasuregardens.com)
Fancy a refresher in an Olympic-
size swimming pool? Te London
Fields Lido becomes packed in
summertime when punters go
to enjoy the chilled, pool-side
ambience as much as to exercise in
the 50-metre pool. Visit of-peak to
experience the joys of swimming
under the open sky without leaving
the city. (London Fields Westside, E8;
hackney.gov.uk/c-londonfelds-lido.htm)
Get up AndGo!
Barclays Cycle Hire Boris Bikes
are a good way to get around
during the Olympics. 1 buys you
24-hours roaming entirely free,
provided journey time is limited to
30-minutes a pop. An iPhone app
will alert you to your nearest bike
docking station. (tf.gov.uk)
Get Ahead of the Games
For longer haul, this brilliant
travel website will give you all
manner of advice on beating the
crowds during the Olympics:
getaheadofthegames.com. My advice:
if you are taking the underground,
dont under any circumstances
forget to buy a bottle of water
before your journey.
Tardy bookers seeking quarters in London could try Accommodation for the Games.
Whether youre seeking a house to ft the family, an apartment with friends or single
rooms, this is a go-to resource for last-minute deals. (accommodationforthegames.com)
london For the olympiCs
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OConnell Bridge
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THE QUAYS
11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 6713922
THE BAGGOT INN
Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2
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THE QUAYS
Quay Street, Galway
Tel: 091 568347
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A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group
Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly
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Established in the 1700s, it was last renovated
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including Joyce and Kavanagh over the years.
Today it still has the authentic feel of a real
Dublin pub.
The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of
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and with a restaurant on the first floor.
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IntervIew
44 | JUly 2012
IntervIew
Writer Tana Frenchs thrillers are dark and unsettling. They sell
scarily well in the US, but she remains relatively unknown in Ireland,
her adopted home. That may change with her fourth novel, set
against the last roars of the Celtic Tiger. Bridget Hourican
meets her. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.
44 | JULY 2012
lesson
french
T
ana French doesnt believe
in doing the right thing;
she does her thing. First up,
she took up acting (no-one
thinks acting is a good idea;
its a terrible idea, she says),
and then she refused to buy a house
when everyone told her to.
French is in her late thirties, part of
that generation, which was encouraged
from every angle to get on the
property ladder. Tose who listened were
suddenly stuck in negative equity while
those, like French, who were too skint
for most of the boom, and bad at going
with the fow were home and dry.
I think a big part of the Celtic
Tiger was letting other people decide
what you want. I found that very
frightening because if you let other
people decide, then when it all goes
wrong, youre left with much less sense
of your own centre. If you decided, it
may have been a terrible decision, but at
least it was your terrible decision, rather
than one you accepted being thrust
upon you from outside.
JUly 2012 | 45
IntervIew
46 | JUly 2012
Frenchs latest thriller, Broken
Harbour, set in a ghost estate just
outside Dublin, is about people who
try to do the right thing and its
very frightening indeed. Teres a
moment about two thirds of the
way through, when the husband of
a family on the ghost estate, whos
convinced that a predatory animal
is coming in through his attic, starts
posting online his desire to set a big
trap to catch the animal alive and
watch it sufer. Already disturbed by
the lonely locale, I stopped reading.
Interestingly, French tells me that
she stopped reading two-thirds of
the way through Sarah Waters Te
Little Stranger I loved it, but I was
so creeped out, I stopped and she
also says she found Broken Harbour,
her fourth book, the hardest to write
Te location is not somewhere you
want to spend time. So its not just
me. (I did reprise Broken Harbour
in daylight my need to know what
happened overcame my fear).
Frenchs is among the most
charmed writers journeys Ive ever
come across. Her frst novel, In the
Woods (2007), which she wrote on
the hoof, was snapped up, won four
major awards and hit the New York
Times bestseller list. She averages a
book every two years and theyre
long, textured, and psychologically
acute and all of them get on the
New York Times bestseller lists.
Her second novel, Te Likeness
has been optioned by Paramount.
No creative writing classes, no failed
novels in drawers, no second book
agony or writers block. I learnt a lot
about characterisation from acting,
she says. A good actor slips from
their own reality into someone elses,
and thats what I do in writing too.
She doesnt do plot outlines and
has no idea whats going to happen
until she starts writing. I do a lot of
rewrites, she admits. With Broken
Harbour, I reached page 100 and
realised I had to go back and leave
one of the victims alive ...
She never had a burning desire
to write; her energy was focussed
on acting. But one summer she was
between gigs theatre doesnt line
up so did an archaeological dig (to
feed her fascination with mystery and
excavation). Tere was a wood close
by, which looked like a great place
for kids to play. I starting thinking
what if three kids went in and only
one came out, and I wrote that idea
down. Ten I went of to do Twelfth
Night. A year later I was moving fat
and found that piece of paper and
thought Id really like to know what
happens and the only way to fnd out
what happens is to write it.
Her books start with an image
or an idea, like the missing children
in the wood. For Broken Harbour
it was mice. We were living in a
tiny granny fat and I went into the
kitchen one night and saw something
shoot out. But we couldnt fnd
anything ever having been there so
my husband said something about
my imagination. Luckily a few nights
later he was the one who saw a mouse
scoot across [the foor].
But I kept thinking about that
sensation of me knowing Id seen
something and him going are you
sure, couldnt it have been your
imagination? We have a happy
relationship but what would it be like
if it was someone whose relationship
was already under pressure, whose
home already felt invaded, and who
already felt that everything was
starting to crack and come apart?
French is not unsettling to
interview. She leaves all that to her
books. Shes friendly and energetic;
petite, with a short pixie haircut,
lively expression, and arresting eyes
the exact colour of greengages.
As an actor she always played
character parts Ten year old
boys, a lot of prostitutes, the Fool
in Twelfth Night.
Shes very animated, great on
ideas, politics, and the way we live
now, and revealing about the creative
process to a point. As soon as
questioning impinges on her private
life, she clams up.
She wont say where she lives in
Dublin, which seems sensible because
although her American success has
yet to be replicated here she was
nominated for the IMPAC and the
Irish Book Awards but didnt win
its probably only a question of time.
She has two passports American
Tana Frenchs
career as an
author has
been charmed
her frst novel
scooped major
awards and hit
the New York
Times bestseller
list, as did her
second and
third books.
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M A R C O P I E R R E W H I T E
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DUBLINS FINEST STEAKHOUSE
IntervIew
48 | JUly 2012
and Irish and her international
profling doesnt stop there. Im a bit
of everything my Dad is American
Irish and my mum is Russian Italian
and was born in Ethiopia. Shes
an interpreter, my father worked
in development aid. So we moved
around a lot, maybe every three or
four years. At the time, its just what
you know, and I was in international
schools so everyone else was doing the
same thing. But I did get to spend all
secondary school, six years, in Rome.
Tis mixed heritage and
upbringing has left her with one
of those unplaceable mid-Atlantic
accents the only word I hear her
pronounce like a Dub is love
and a few languages my Italian
would have been slangy school kid
and my French more formal, but
now theyre both awful, no practice
together with a frm desire to stay
put in one place.
Among the most striking aspects
of Frenchs books is the evocation
of Dublin. Whether its the close
inner-city community of Faithful
Place or the ghost estates of Broken
Harbour, Frenchs books are
embedded in a recognisable Dublin.
Were currently enjoying a golden
age of Irish crime writing, from
John Connolly and Ken Bruen to
Alex Barclay and Arlene Hunt, but
theyre more likely to set their books
in the US than Ireland.
Its ironic that someone who didnt
grow up in Dublin and is only part-
Irish managed to fnd the noir quality
in our capital city. French thinks that
It may be easier to develop a feel for
somewhere if you dont really belong.
Ive lived here half my life but Im
never going to be a Dub the way my
husband is. If youre from somewhere
heart and soul, you take things for
granted, but the tone to the slanging,
the bounce of language, Ill notice
that because Ive got something to
contrast to.
Why did she frst come to Dublin?
Her answer is unexpectedly touching:
We used to come for summers, and
one of the things I always liked, which
I didnt get in Italy, is that girls and
guys are good friends here. In Italy
a guy and a girl who had no interest
in going out wouldnt meet up. I
liked that here not every friendship
was being cast in a purely potentially
romantic light and that I didnt have to
enter every interaction as woman frst,
human being second.
She did a degree in Drama and
English in Trinity, followed by the
two-year acting course and then
started as a professional actor in 1997,
joining an actors co-op called Purple
Heart All guys and me. We were
getting arts council grants but really
small ones. Hard work but great fun.
It was hand-to-mouth Ive lived
in a lot of fats round Dublin but
she met her future husband Anthony
Breatnach on stage I was playing
a madam yeah, another prostitute,
and he was playing an IRA hit-man
who took refuge in the brothel. Tey
were together ten years before they
married in 2008 and now have a
young daughter.
Te best thing about success, she
says, is the removal of that constant
low level fear when the ESB bill
comes through the door. Nothing
will ever make as much diference.
Tat, and the knowledge that you
can get up in the morning and do
what you want if youre in the arts,
thats as good as it gets. Tis is the
kind of thing successful authors say,
but I believe her. Teres nothing like
a long apprenticeship as a struggling
actor to keep you grounded.
Shes already started on her next
book: Its provisionally called Te
Secret Place. Holly [daughter of Frank,
narrator of Faithful Place] is now
16 and she shows up at the Murder
Squad with a card which was left
in the secret place in her boarding
school a place where people post
up messages and leave things its
a photo of a teenage boy who was
murdered a year earlier with the
message I knowwho killed him
Tana Frenchs fourth novel, Broken Harbour
(Hatchette Ireland 13.99) is out now.
Im a bit of everything my dad is American Irish and
my mum is Russian Italian and was born in Ethiopia.
tana French on ...
... favourIte place for
holIdays?Greece, just Greece
Crete or Rhodes. Id go there every
time but my husbands more of an
experimenter so we compromise and
go to Croatia or somewhere one year,
and then back to Greece the next.
... and In Ireland? I love rural
Ireland, especially Galway and all
around there, but we havent been
going anywhere for a while. Im
adjusting to a diferent pace of work
with a child in tow.
... IndublIn? I like St Patricks
Cathedral, all those layers of history,
and I do love Trinity, partly because I
went there I guess. I love that sense
that theres 400 years worth of
layers of memories, and Ive left my
own little layers, together with those
thousands upon thousands of other
people who have been there.
... actIngI really miss it. I miss the
social side. Writing is not very social.
And I miss that sense of diving into
someone elses work. But I cant
write and act at the same time. It
would be like trying to perform
two parts. But if I had any time of
which I dont I wouldnt write a
screenplay or anything, Id act. Id
love to be in a show again.
... wrItIngIn the morning I do
toddler stuf and I write in the
afternoon. I write longhand I know
Im such a geek! Id write half a
scene longhand to get it fowing, and
then go and type it out. I write every
day, averaging maybe 750 words a
day, but towards the end of a book
that might speed up. I think Im good
at writing in diferent places.
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CHICAGO
50 | juLY 2012
CHICAGO
Looking north along Michigan
Avenue, into the heart of
Downtown Chicago and the
start of the Magnifcent Mile
Chicago is a city of stunning skyscrapers,
great food, world famous jazz clubs and
leafy neighbourhoods. It is also home from
home for author Alison Jameson, who
shares some of her favourite haunts.
Photographs by Conor Horgan.
&
Mighty
CHICAGO
52 | JULY 2012
I
n the neighbourhood of
Andersonville on the north
side of Chicago it is July,
balmy and almost dark. Te
air is flled with the rolling
chirp of crickets and the
sprinklers sound like soft
warm rain the kind of rain
we get in Ireland . . . minus
the wind and general misery
of it. Te neighbourhood streets
here are lined with lush green trees
and someone somewhere is playing
Nancy Wilson. I am on my way
home from a day at the Chicago Art
Institute and, when I breathe in that
sweet evening air, my only thought
is that life doesnt get much better.
My afection for this city began
at Te Savoy Cinema in OConnell
Street in Dublin when a friend
and I bunked of college to see
About Last Night. We were just
18 and we loved all of it: Lake
Michigan, Lincoln Park, the snow,
the skyscrapers, young Rob Lowe
in underpants. My friend married
a Chicagoan and would soon
regale me with tales of cycling and
sunbathing by the lake in summer,
and in winter well, there was that
morning she didnt dry her hair
properly and it was frozen when she
got to work. I had to visit of course
and she began to show me the ins
and outs of real Chicago life. I have
been going there for years now and
during each trip the city surprises
me again and sends me home
rejuvenated and like any decent
holiday should full of fresh ideas
about my life.
Chicago is a smorgasbord of
stunning skyscrapers, great
food, world famous
jazz and blues
clubs and leafy
neighbourhoods
and yet the
frst question
often put to
the locals is,
How do you
cope with the
weather? Te
winters can be
ferce, no doubt,
and because Im shy
about travelling with
my pink hot water bottle, I
tend to visit Chicago in summer
and autumn. During these months
it really comes alive and
the city embraces the
warmer temperatures
with a non-stop
selection of
outdoor events
and activities.
OHare
Airport is the
second busiest
in the world and
it can be a little
intimidating add
the time diference and
I have often been tempted
to roll straight into a nice soft
HOTDOG
A hot dog in Chicago is
unlike any youve tasted and
theres always a queue outside
Hot Dougs (3224 N California Ave).
Serving the classic Chicago dog as
well as venison, elk, bualo and
ostrich, this place is well on its
way to becoming another
Chicago legend.
Clockwise
from above,
left, Randolph
Street market
fan, Dorothy
M. Loud
sports a self-
made scarf;
a pristine
1960 Lincoln
Continental
Mark V convertible
cruises along the
Magnicent Mile;
street musician
Kaliq Woods plays
jazz clarinet; at
home, author
Alison Jameson.
bed but I dont. Usually. Flying
from Ireland, I prefer to stay up
when I get there, eat light and go see
Downtown, Chicago. (Youll also
hear talk of, Te Loop, which is
the business area in Downtown and
where the El train tracks literally
go in a loop.) Downtown at night
Fires renowned culinary team and the Irish
Hereford Prime beef farmers have crafted
A Taste Revelation.
Our 28 day matured Irish beef steaks are
hand cut and specially marinated, which has
earned FIRE the reputation for delivering award
winning Steaks.
Combine this with FIREs passion, value and
commitment to an outstanding hospitality
experience all provided within a building
steeped in history.
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CHICAGO
54 | JULY 2012
is truly beautiful. Te combination
of silvery light from the skyscrapers,
the warm breeze whipping around
my shorts and very white legs, the
yellow cabs and the sound of the
river make it all a bit magical. It
always thrills me on my frst night.
Dinner al fresco with a nice glass of
wine marks the ofcial start to my
holiday and theres a great choice of
restaurants on the Riverwalk.
I frst became interested in
architecture when I visited Chicago
(its hard not to be in this city). Te
Chicago Architecture Foundation
( architecture.org) runs a great
Elevated tour that lasts a couple
of hours and takes you around all the
notable buildings by L train. I can
be a bit lazy about organised tours;
instead I love to take the Brown Line
myself, which is completely elevated
and a great way to get a sense of
the city and its neighbourhoods I
feel only slightly guilty peeking in
the windows at all those poor
ofce workers. For a
more romantic view
of the city there
are kayak tours,
which paddle
the architectural
canyons of the
river. Im a bit
hydrophobic
on this one and
have visions of
turning over and
talking to the fsh
but thats just me. No
experience is required (and
apparently people dont turn over )
It has become hugely popular over the
last few years, with local companies
competing for business and more
boathouses being built along the
river. You will need to book in
advance and layer on the sun block.
It costs around $65 per person
(kayakchicago.com).
Summer temperatures can be
as high as 30C so, by mid-day if
Im starting to fag, I like to grab
a picnic and head for the lake. Its
cooler there and the Chicagoans
treat the Lake Michigan waterfront
as their back yard. Te
shoreline is smooth and
sandy and there are
miles of parkland
all around
it. Tere are
great views of
Downtown
from Monroe
Harbour and
you can also
visit Museum
Campus in the
same area. North
Beach is great for
swimming and its fun
to watch the bikers, joggers and
rollerbladers in Lincoln Park. Navy
Pier seemed a bit honky-tonk to me
after the elegance of Downtown but
its full of energy on a summer night
and defnitely worth checking out.
Tere are boat trips from there or
the Active Transportation Alliance
( fourstarbiketour.org) runs a leisurely
ARTBEAT
Bucktown, east of the
Logan Square community and
directly north of Wicker Park,
boasts more artists than any other
area in the Midwest. The Bucktown
Arts Fest attracts more than
30,000 visitors every August;
bucktownartsfest.com
Above, couples
dance the tango
in the Spirit of
Music Garden, and
top, the Tall Ship
Windy sails daily
from Navy Pier.
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CHICAGO
56 | juLY 2012
FIveTHInGs TODO
1
The Chicago Art Institute (111
South Michigan Avenue ) houses
one of the worlds biggest
collections of French Impressionist
and Post-Impressionist paintings.
Works by Rembrandt, Picasso, Dali,
Renoir, Van Gogh and Monet are
on display and, if youre an Edward
Hopper fan, dont miss a chance to
see Nighthawks. (artic.edu)
2
The Randolph street Market,
an indoor-outdoor antique
market ($10 admission) in
the historic West Loop, has more
than 200 stalls and runs at the
weekends from May to September.
You will have endless fun
rummaging for furnishings, vintage
clothing, jewelry and collectibles.
(randolphstreetmarket.com)
3
The Green Mill (4802
North Broadway Street )
was originally owned by Al
Capone and a night here is like
stepping back into 1920s Chicago.
Its the perfect place to soak up
some good jazz and the Sunday
night Poetry Slam is really popular.
(greenmilljazz.com)
4
If youre a baseball fan,
Wrigley Field (1060 West
Addison Street) is hallowed
ground but even if youre not,
the atmosphere at a game is
something special. Wrigley is
home to the Chicago Cubs and if
you show up an hour or so before
a game, you should fnd a season
ticket holder trying to sell seats.
(chicago.cubs.mlb.com)
5
Frank Lloyd Wright Home
(951 Chicago Avenue, Oak
Park) The Midwests most
controversial architect started out
in the suburb of Oak Park, and
his house now a museum gives
a frsthand look at his talent and
infuence. (gowright.org)
Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio
DEMOCRATS DELIGHTSee the original Obama house (5046 S Greenwood Avenue) or
where that perfect hair-cut comes from(Hyde Park Hair Salon&Barber, 5234 South
Blackstore Avenue); howhe likes his coffee (Valois, 1518 E53rd Street); and where he
taught for more thana decade (the University of Chicago LawSchool, 1111 E60thStreet).
atmosphere is entirely diferent
there, the pace slower with a new set
of cultures and often an immigrant
infuence. Tis is where the best
bakeries are, the best hole-in-the-
wall restaurants and the best view of
real Chicago life.
Andersonville is a neighbourhood
I always visit, not least because I
associate it with friendship and
good times, but also because it has
a charm of its own. It feels very
real (the restaurants and boutiques
are predominantly locally owned)
and a great place to stroll around
on your own or with your family,
window shopping, scanning
menus and checking out antiques.
Te trend at the moment is for
repurposed furniture (the nice
kind, not wobbly chairs painted
white), which is often piled high
cycle around the neighbourhoods,
parks and boulevards.
Personally, Im happy to sit on
the warm sand near the water with
a book, dipping into my picnic
stash, and people watching. If youre
heading to Navy Pier make sure to
stop at Fox & Obel, 401 E Illinois
Street, my favourite for picnic
goodies. Produce is beautifully
displayed and everything is super-
fresh. Te Chicago French Market
is wonderful too but not that easy to
fnd. (Its behind the Ogilvie Metra
train station on the western edge
of the Loop). Vendors ofer a great
range of ready-to-go foods, mostly
organic and from local suppliers.
With a short trip on the El, the
skyscrapers and shops of Downtown
can be swapped for any one of the
many leafy neighbourhoods. Te
Millennium Park,
tourists gather
at Cloud Gate,
known colloquially
as The Bean.
Come dine in one of Irelands denitive
Italian experiences, brought to you by
Eileen Dunne,
Stefano Crescenzi & David Izzo
A cosy Italian restaurant &
extensive wine bar.
14-16 South Frederick Street D2
11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, D4
www.dunneandcrescenzi.com
+353 (1) 6759892
Traditional Italian
trattoria restaurant.
26 Lower Ormond Quay
Dublin 1
www.baritalia.ie
+353 (1) 8741000

Elegant ne dining with
authentic Italian avours.
1-2 Portobello Road,
Dublin 8
www.nonnavalentina.ie
+353 (1) 4549866
A workshop of cutting edge
Italian food.
Town Square, Dundrum Town
Centre, Dublin 18
www.ofcina.ie
+353 (1) 216 6764
Dunne and Crescenzi has changed
the way the Irish eat
Tom Doorley, THE IRISH TIMES.
.... pioneering and reigning...
The New York Times
One of the most famous Italian wine bars...
La Repubblica
They brought the real Italian food to Dublin
FOOD & WINE
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CAFE_MEXICANA_CARA_JUN_QP.ai 1 12/06/2012 11:36
CHICAGO
58 | JULY 2012
in artistic displays on
the sidewalks. You can
still see a Scandinavian
presence from the
neighbourhoods
Swedish founders, which
is even more interesting
now with a great mix
of Middle Eastern bakeries, lively
bars and restaurants. Andersonville
is also home to a vibrant gay and
lesbian community, hence the many
LGBT-friendly restaurants and bars.
Te Swedish Bakery in
Andersonville is famous and I cant
pass it without trying the butter
cookies. I have also spent many
happy hours browsing in Women
and Children First, a feminist and
childrens book shop (but by no
means a male-free zone).
Dinner at the Hopleaf Bar
(hopleaf.com) rounds of my idea
of a perfect day although Im
never sure if I need to lie down or
power walk after the delicious, Old
Rasputin Baked Chocolate Mousse
there. (Note, you must be over 21 to
get in here.)
Chicago can be very humid (the
kind of mugginess that makes my
normally straight hair frizz) so
there are times, even in summer,
EAT AT
Belly Shack
SPLURGE Alinea (1723 N Halstead;
alinea-restaurant.com) and
Charlie Trotters (816 W Armitage;
charlietrotters.com), both in the Lincoln
Park area, are the two most famous
restaurants in Chicago. The former is well
known for its 23 course Tour menu (it
usually takes about four and half hours
to eat ) and Charlie Trotters is famous
for the great man himself, still turning
out a feast of culinary delights using only
organic ingredients and based on his
philosophy: Food doesn t have to be rich
to taste good. Sadly, its due to close late
August so get your booking in. Its always
very popular but word on the street is you
can still get a table there mid-week.
MID-RANGE Girl & the Goat (809 W
Randolph Street; girlandthegoat.com) is
one of the most-talked about restaurants
in Chicago. Situated in the West Loop, its
at the upper end of the mid-price range
and very popular, thanks to the talents of
its celebrity chef/owner Stephanie Izard.
It gets rave reviews but is not the place to
try to impress your vegetarian date pigs
cheeks and goat leg are de rigueur here.
Its frequently booked out but you can try
for an early or late dinner sitting. Better
still, if youre not into forward planning,
its easy to get seated in the lounge or the
bar. If you want a night in a neighbourhood
though, Bistro Campagne (4518 N Lincoln
Avenue; bistrocampagne.com) in Lincoln
Square has a great outdoor patio and the
food (French) is always good. Theres also
a fun shopping stretch to check out after
your meal.
BUDGET You might be tempted to go
headrst into that famous deep-dish
pizza, but if you want to be in with
the locals, Bill and Yvonne Cadiz-Kim
have recently broadened our thrifty
horizons with two new restaurants:
Urban Belly (3053 N California Avenue;
urbanbellychicago.com) and Belly Shack
(1912 N Western Avenue; bellyshack.com).
Its all about noodles and dumplings, with
a short menu oering a whole new dining
experience at the right price. (BYOB)
If you are out in the neighbourhoods in
the morning, don t pass an Ann Sather
(annsather.com) without popping in for
breakfast. Its a Chicago institution. Be
ready to tell them how you want those
eggs done and theyre likely to call you
sweetheart. Great cinnamon rolls.
Theres one close to City Suites on
Belmont Avenue.
An alfresco coee at a street caf in
Andersonville. Top, Bob Votruba puts
his dog Bogart into the converted
school bus they share travelling
across America to raise awareness
of wounded servicemen, police
and reghters.
juLY 2012 | 59
Kids cool of at the Crown
fountain, Millennium Park.
CHICAGO
60 | JULY 2012
when I like to retreat indoors. For
frst-time visitors who are planning
to shop, its a good idea to pace
yourself. Te frst time I walked
through this retail paradise, I
wanted to buy everything. Tese
days I try to breathe and maybe
go have an ice cream frst. (iCream
at 1537 Milwaukee Avenue is
great fun Nutella & Nitrogen
anyone?)
It is possible to go a little crazy
on Michigan Avenue also known
as the Magnifcent Mile and Ive
had the magnifcent credit card
bills to prove it. Dont forget there
is a sales tax of 9.5 per cent on
general merchandise in Chicago,
which includes clothing. In terms
of choice, convenience and sheer
glamour though, there is nowhere
else like it. It is home to several
high-rise malls 900 North
Michigan Shops is probably the
most up-market (Bloomingdales
is its most prominent store) but,
if youre looking for bargains, leave
plenty of time and energy for State
Street. Tis was Chicagos original
shopping stretch and its worth
visiting for Macys (originally
Marshall Fields). Ive also snagged
some great deals at Nordstrom
Rack (24 N State Street) and TJ
SLEEP AT...
SPLURGE The Four Seasons (120
E Delaware Place; (fourseasons.
com/chicagofs) and Ritz-Carlton
(Water Tower Place; fourseasons.
com/chicagorc) will not disappoint
if you want serious luxury and
top-notch service. Rooms at The
Four Seasons start at $439 while
rates at the Ritz-Carlton begin
at $399 per night. If you prefer
something with more character
and great views of the lake and
dont mind the quirks of old-age,
the Drake is the grand-dame of
Chicago hotels (140 E Walton
Place; thedrakehotel.com), rooms
from $159 excluding taxes.
MID-RANGE For cutting-
edge chic that wont break the
bank, check-in at the Acme
Hotel (15 East Ohio Street;
(acmehotelcompany.com)
located in Downtown Chicagos
entertainment epicentre, rooms
from $229 plus taxes. The funky
and relaxed Hotel Monaco (225 N
Wabash Avenue; monaco-chicago.
com) is in a prime Loop location.
Some rooms have cushioned
window seats for admiring the
Downtown views, meditation
chairs and if youre tall you can
ask for a Tall Room and youll get a
longer bed ... rooms from $189.
BUDGET Red Roof Inn (162 E
Ontario Street; redroof-chicago-
downtown.com) is just a block
from the Magnicent Mile and
hard to beat if youre on a tighter
budget. Rooms are functional
but comfortable, perfect if you
plan to sleep and go; rooms
from $119.99. The City Suites
Hotel (933 W Belmont Avenue;
chicagocitysuites.com) is a bit
o the beaten track but very
close to the Belmont Avenue L
stop, which means you can get
back to Downtown in around 15
minutes. Its had a facelift fairly
recently and the suites are great
for families. If youre looking for a
neighbourhood feel and fancy a
buet breakfast thrown in, youll
like this place but make sure
to ask for a quiet room as its
close to the train station. Rooms
from $179.
Aer Lingus ies from
Dublin to Chicago daily.
Maxx (11 N State Street). Look
out for Diane Von Furstenberg
and Nanette Lepore dresses and
endless rails of childrens clothes ...
which can be a steal.
Dont be surprised if you
feel a little sad leaving
Chicago. Its impossible to
go there and not thoroughly
enjoy yourself. From the
skyscrapers to the lake, good
food and world famous
music, for me its a city thats
always exciting and a great
place to relax. Tinking
about it now brings on a
kind of home sickness but
when I call my Chicagoan
friend she cant talk. Hey
Ali, she says, Can I call
you back? Im cycling to
the lake for a dip. Te
Irish summer sky is still
grey and Im too
attached to that
pink hot water
bottle. Im putting
the phone down and
starting to pack.
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There are bargains
to be had at
Nordstrom and
TJ Maxx, such
as these Diane
Von Furstenberg
goodies, below.
M
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M.J. ONeill
Suffolk Street, Dublin 2
Tel. 01 679 3656
www.oneillsbar.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm
Fri: 8.00am-12.30am
Sat: 8.00am-12.30am
Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm
O
Neills is one of Dublins most
famous and historic pubs.
Centuries of Dublin history
surround the world-renowned ONeills.
Just around the corner from Trinity
College, Grafton Street and the Molly
Malone Statue, trade has ourished
uninterrupted for over 300 years. ONeills
is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin.
When you pay us a visit you will receive
a warm and friendly welcome and you
can enjoy its ageless character, numerous
alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.
To make your visit as enjoyable as
possible we offer you ...
Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous
Carvery serving only the nest Irish
Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact,
Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5
Places to nd Real Irish food in Dublin.
Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week
Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area
Largest selection of local Irish
Craft Beers in Ireland
Pour Your Own Pint tables
Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers
HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan
with major international league games.
Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am
Really Good Full
Irish Breakfast only 6.95
Top 5 places to nd
Real Irish Food in Dublin
Our fully-refurbished
Roof-Top Beer Garden
& Smoking Area
O'Neill's Cara Ad May-12 Edition1 1 09/05/2012 16:08:09
62 | july 2012
summer in dublin
Not at the Olympics? From Dun Laoghaire pier to Phoenix
Park, from pop-up art galleries to the best eats, theres plenty to
entertain you in and around Dublin. We
ask four locals to tell us their favourite city outings.
Photographs by Richard Gilligan.
Dublin
S
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in the
64 | JULY 2012
SUMMER IN DUBLIN
KIDS STUFF
Juggling a vacation, or even a staycation,
with a gaggle of kids in tow can tax the
savviest parent, but Oda OCarroll, who
runs kids online travel guide jumpzter.com
has the inside scoop on Dublin for little feet.
D
ublin is a doddle with kids. Just make sure you have
loose change, snacks and a brolly on you at all times.
First on my hotlist is Te Chester Beatty Library
(Dublin Castle, 01 407 0750; cbl.ie), home to a
wonderful collection of Asian and Islamic art and,
surprisingly, a big hit with kids. Te cultural importance of its
intricate scrolls, miniature boxes and ornate Imperial swords
may be lost on young ones but the sheer colourful beauty isnt.
Regular workshops for kids in things such as manga animation,
mandala making and calligraphy book out fast, so get your
spoke in early for what should be a really imaginative week-long
science workshop for six- to eleven-year-olds on July 9-13.
An exciting LUAS-ride away at Sandyford (in the way that
the transport there is often the bestest bit) is Imaginosity
(Te Plaza, Beacon South Quarter, Sandyford, 01 217 6130;
imaginosity.ie; adult/child over age three, 8, toddlers 6, babies
over six months 2), where any under nines should have a
ball. If you havent been there, its a kind of playful, hands-on,
junior science museum where curious minds and bodies can
bounce about. Kids get to mess about unsupervised in the best
possible way and calculate the amount of fuid in their body,
perform fake X-rays, shop in a junior-sized supermarket and
1950s diner or build a fort using wooden pegs and hammers. A
favourite is the performance area where kids dress up and read
the news in front of a proper green screen. Terrible twos (and
under) can bounce around in a padded play area and keep out of
the big kids way.
Very young kids may run a mile however from the life-like
fgures a whos who of Irish literary, musical and sporting
greats at Te National Wax MuseumPlus (Foster Place,
Temple Bar, 01 671 8373; waxmuseumplus.ie; adult/child
12/8) but school-age kids should fnd this warren of displays
really fascinating. Here, kids can meet famous Irish characters
from Beckett to Bono, climb through a furry Lilliputian tunnel,
or creep around the basements gruesome Chamber of Horrors.
Te central Iveagh Gardens (Clonmel Street;
heritageireland.ie/en/dublin/theiveaghgardens), once known as
the Secret Garden, though not as secret as it was thanks to
a plethora of mini festivals that use its beautifully rambling
grounds, is still a lovely urban oasis in which to lie out and have
a picnic. If your kids are anything like most though, the appeal
of lying on a blanket is short-lived. In that case, a jaunt to Malahide
Castle (01 890 5000; malahidecastleandgardens.ie), after it reopens
in August, is recommended. It is a fantastic 12th-century castle
and is one of those rare places that have something to keep
everyone in the group from grumbling. Teres the castle, full of
rare antiques and portraits, to visit; kids can try to exorcise the
ghost of a hanged castle sentry who, asleep on the job, allowed the
enemy to enter. Or take some goodies from Itsa (1 New Street,
Malahide, 01 845 6744) and picnic on the sprawling grounds.
For a minute. Kids love the Talbot botanical garden with its
creepy oversized plants and the maze of winding woodland walks.
Te best bit for kids, though, is possibly the biggest playground
in Dublin, with bike-fuelled roundabouts, spider net climbing
frames and a zip wire.
Dining with kids in Dublin is another matter. Visitors to town,
used to eating late at night en famille, may be in for a surprise.
Restaurants that serve alcohol unless in a hotel where youre
resident generally dont admit young diners after
7 or sometimes 8pm (the ofcial cut-of point for kids is 9pm). At
least things have improved on the menu front, with better quality
food on ofer than the ubiquitous nuggets-sausage-fshfnger fare.
Restaurateurs have realised theres real value in the junior pound
and some now, rightly, ofer half-portion-half-price mains. Lets
have more of that please. One of our favourite places to grab a bite
is the very child-tolerant Wagamama (South King Street, 01 478
2152; wagamama.ie) for its pocket-friendly, healthy kids menu,
snappy service and patient staf things which are surprisingly
hard to fnd all at once in this otherwise kid-sized city.
A REAL FAVOURITE IS THE
PERFORMANCE AREA WHERE KIDS
DRESS UP ANDREADTHE NEWS IN
FRONT OF A PROPER GREENSCREEN.
Above,
Oda OCarroll
enjoys the
sunshine on Dun
Laoghaire pier.

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c1712_GreenHen.pdf 1 07/06/2012 14:29
66 | july 2012
summer in dublin
strollinginthe sunthroughthe
gardens of fitzwilliamsquare with
somethingfroma spreadof stalls is
a verycivilisedwaytostave off the
hunger demons.
summer in dublin
JULY 2012 | 67
I
reland is hardly renowned for its year round great weather, so once a sliver of
sunshine hits a Dublin footpath, people tend to make the most of it. I am one of
those people, so once there is a fragrant whif of summer air, my working week and
social life tend to merge.
On a typical day, its nice to start with a quality cup of cofee. Te cofee revolution,
like the craft beer one, has been slow to start turning in Dublin, but it is getting there. For
me, the best independent cofee shop is the grungy, yet charming, 3fe (01 661 9329; 3fe.
com), on Middle Abbey Street. By night, this space is a popular, left-of-centre nightspot: Te
Twisted Pepper. By day, Colin Harmon, a brilliantly obsessed barista, has set up shop and
seems intent on brewing the best cofee in Dublin he seems to be succeeding.
For sweet treats with your brew, take a walk down to Capel Street where the clever
fellows at Brother Hubbard (01 441 1112; brotherhubbard.ie) have opened a delightful
little caf this year and are doing wonderful things for the taste-buds of any who indulge.
Try their lemon poppy seed sponge with yoghurt and pomegranate syrup, its fantastic. Te
dcor makes it the perfect place to catch up on your Saturday supplements too and there are
plans to open up the cute garden space out back.
For lunch, a hit and run at the market by Fitzwilliam Square strolling in the sun
through the gardens with something from a spread of stalls is a very civilised way to stave
of the hunger demons. Or, pop out to Portobello, to Bibis Caf (01 454 7421; bibis.ie) on
Emorville Avenue, where lunch is locally sourced and generously portioned. Attached to the
caf theres the hip boutique, Dolls, where it can be bargain or bust but always-gorgeous
individual pieces.
Most of my day is spent hot-footing it between the restaurants I run (JoBurger,
Crackbird and Bear, among others) and stopping to chat with anyone I meet on my
travels. When I fnish my rounds at around ten, I normally wind up with a visit to one,
or all of my three favourite local watering holes. Im always happy to sit at the counter,
which means I get seated faster, at Coppinger Row (01 672 9884; coppingerrow.com),
of South William Street. Teir cocktail alchemy is some of the best ever and I normally
opt for a Boulevardier a Negroni/Manhattan hybrid and a crab and crayfsh salad, a
nice balance of light and heavy. Around the corner on Fade Street lies my favourite for
French classics, lGueuleton, pictured left, (01 675 3708; lgueuleton.com). Here, I opt for
local charcuterie or a massive plate of mussels and a glass of waiter-recommended big red
in the back garden space always a winner. Finishing of my trio is 777 (01 425 4052;
777.ie) on South Great Georges Street youd almost pay just to sit in this room. With
its over-the-top Mexican interior, small share plates and crazy cocktails, this place has
stolen my heart recently and is defnitely my new BFF. Just watch out as the bill can go
supernova after a couple of cocktails, stealing more than just your heart.
More wallet-friendly nights are spent in Dublins unofcial Chinatown Parnell Street,
Capel Street and Cathedral Street. An authentic Hunan or Szechuan provincial fx can be
had at M&L (01 874 8038) on Cathedral Street think razor clams with glass noodles or
shrimp deep fried in egg yolk and youre there. Wash that down with a craft beer from Te
Black Sheep on Capel Street try 8 Degrees Brewery from Ballyhoura in Co Cork while
taking in the interesting locals youll fnd there too.
Even though Im fairly microcosmic for the most part, staying in Dublin 1, 2 and 7, I
do sometimes venture out to the burbs. Slap on your swanky pants and take your favourite
person to the seasonal and swish Mulberry Garden (01 269 3300; mulberrygarden.ie) in
Donnybrook, Dublin 4, grab a cigar on your way out to complete the buzz and then head
on over to Te Bernard Shaw, a bar on South Richmond Street, Dublin 2 for something a
little less sophisticated, but with great tunes, cheap booze and a cool crowd to chill with for
the rest of the night ...
Restaurateur Joe Macken, who spends many of his waking hours
checking out the latest city bars and restaurants, lets us in on his
favourite Dublin hotspots.
THEFOODIESHITLIST

68 | JULY 2012
SUMMER IN DUBLIN
BESTFORBIKES
SUMMER IN DUBLIN
68 | JULY 2012
D
ublin, it seems, is in the middle of a cycling revolution. Te
Dublin Bike scheme has been a success beyond the City
Councils wildest dreams (more than 3.5 million journeys
at last count!), there are new bike lanes opening up (see the
Grand Canal) and bike shops citywide are thriving. Pedal
power is in full efect not since the 1950s has there been so many
people on two wheels in our fair city. So, whats behind the renewed
interest? Dublin Bikes is responsible for breaking in more than a few
new cyclists, but maybe more credence should be given to the forward-
thinking, government-driven Bike to Work scheme that has had a
huge efect by making decent bikes of all shapes and sizes a lot more
afordable. Either way, its hard not to notice an increase in a two wheels
good, four wheels bad mentality in Dublin nowadays.
One of the less appealing consequences of the cycling revolution has
been the rise of the Mamil (middle-aged man in Lycra), I must confess to
purchasing my frst (non comedy) Lycra recently, alongside a host of other
cycling paraphernalia.
I have long been a city cyclist, using my trusty steed for short hops
about the city, but recently decided to venture beyond the Pale and into our
neighbouring county, Wicklow, aptly known as the Garden of Ireland one
trip was all it took to have me hooked.
Wicklow is a great place to embark on, or continue, a two-wheel love
afair, each route taking in breathtaking views and catering for all levels of
ftness and experience. Some favoured routes include the rather daunting
Stocking Lane (head out through Rathfarnham, cross the M50 and feel
the burn) or Enniskerry via Stepaside and Te Scalp (dont let the name
throw you). Te Stocking Lane journey features a gruelling 7km climb,
rewarded with a spectacular view of the capital go on a Sunday to catch
the ice-cream man. From here you can continue across the hills to Sally
Gap and straight on to Laragh and beyond, or left to the spectacular views
of Luggala. If you do go to Laragh be sure to stop in the excellent (and bike
friendly) Glendalough Green caf (a haven for weary cyclists). Te trip
out here and back is about 90km and not for the faint hearted. Enniskerry
and back covers about 40km and brings you to Powerscourt Gardens and
Waterfall, taking in spectacular views of the Sugar Loaf. If you feel like
pushing your legs a little harder, continue on to Greystones, where a spot of
lunch in Te Happy Pear (Church Road, Greystones, Co Wicklow, 01 287
3655; thehappypear.ie) is a delicious reward. You can get a spin over Bray
Head in too if feeling particularly tough/crazy.
You dont have to don Lycra to get on two wheels in
the city though; there are lots of options for those who
wish to hop on a bike without scaring the neighbours
kids. For less challenging routes from the city try the
scenic (and fat) journey out to Howth; stop to walk the
pier before grabbing a bag of chips in the village. If you
feel like stretching the legs further, take a spin around
Howth Head too. If the chips get the better of you,
bring your bike back on the DART (of-peak hours only
weekends and non rush hour).
Back in the city centre, the aforementioned Dublin
Bike Scheme (dublinbikes.ie) ofers many options. Highlights include
Blessington Street (the most northerly stop) to take in the quiet oasis that
is the Blessington Street Basin, and Merrion Square for Government
Buildings, Trinity College and the square itself. Te system allows for
short term (2 for 3 days) or long term (10 per annum). Te frst half hour
is free and after that charges increase per hour to encourage sharing. Over
in the Phoenix Park, pictured here, you can rent a tandem for a romantic
jaunt through the deer-inhabited grounds (phoenixparkbikehire.com; one
hour: 10; three hours: 20; full day: 40), again the Lycra is optional but a
picnic, if its a sunny day, comes highly recommended.
Want to get out and about? Retro bike fan Chewy knows the best cycling routes in the city and surrounds.
YOUDONT HAVE TODONLYCRA TOGET
ONTWOWHEELS INTHE CITYTHOUGH;
THERE ARE LOTS OF OPTIONS FOR THOSE
WHOWISHTOHOP ONA BIKE WITHOUT
SCARINGTHE NEIGHBOURS KIDS.

JULY 2012 | 69 JULY 2012 | 69

70 | JULY 2012
SUMMER IN DUBLIN
W
hile weve all heard about Londons
cultural Olympiad, there are also some
cultural curiosities happening in Dublin
this summer. Dublin, as City of Science
2012, is also hosting Europes largest,
general science meeting: the Euroscience Open Forum, July
12-16 (esof.eu). So, men in white coats are arriving en masse for
Science in the City a collection of arts and science-inspired
events that reach across many intriguing spectrums. Te left-
brain line-up includes fve Nobel laureates, the director generals
of CERN and the European Space Agency, and NASA bofns
Charles Bolden, James Watson and Craig Venter.
Earlier this year, the Science Gallery at Trinity College
(Pearse Street, 01 896 4091; sciencegallery.com) called out for
hackers, makers, doers, data nerds, hobbyists, tech geeks and
activists to take part in a city-wide experiment. Its fndings
are revealed in Hack the City (until September 7) a mind-
bending project that encourages citizens to take control of their
urban surroundings. Tis mash-up aims to reframe our city
systems by rifng on Dublins history, infrastructure and character.
My own Science Gallery experiments are often followed by
a spell at Trinitys Douglas Hyde Gallery (Nassau Street, 01
896 1116; douglashydegallery.com), a favourite urban hideaway. It
does exhibitions with panache and sells a catalogue of delectable
publications that are the last word in book design. It also
sometimes hosts incredible under-the-radar music events; Ive
attended a few, including memorable sessions with artists such as
Vashti Bunyan and Sufan Stevens. Te summer show features
artist Aleana Egan in an exhibition of new work comprising
sculpture and found objects (until July 18), accompanied by a
new publication in its Leaves & Papers series.
A little gate on the north side of St Stephens Green leads
to the much-loved Little Museumof Dublin (01 661 1000;
littlemuseum.ie) across the road, which presents U2: 1978-81, an
exhibition of previously unseen photographs of the band, until
September 2. Roy Foster will be at the museum on July 6 at
3pm to talk on Bram Stokers Dublin. When Bram Stoker died,
mention of his most famous tome, Dracula, was absent from his
obituary. A century later, it has been translated into more than
50 languages. Be sure to take the museums tour while youre there.
Meanwhile around the corner lives a slightly bigger museum.
During refurbishment at the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham,
the Irish Museumof Modern Art (imma.ie) is also exhibiting at
Earlsfort Terrace, a former medical school in the city centre. Its
frst exhibition at this sensational venue also peers through a
scientifc lens. Time Out of Mind, until September 2, is installed
across 14 gallery spaces on the ground foor and features artists
from the IMMA collection who are informed by the feld of
science, including Michael Craig-Martin, Marcel Duchamp,
Curator and cultural maven Kathy Scott on
the summers viewings, shows and concerts.
FORCULTURELOVERS
Grace Weir, Dorothy Cross and British artist Tacita Dean, whose
mesmerising flm, Presentation Sisters, is being exhibited. Just
next-door Te National Concert Hall (01 417 0000; nch.ie)
presents Icarus at the Edge of Time a clever collision of flm,
music and science on July 14, at 3pm and 7pm. Author of a
childrens book of the same name, world-renowned physicist
Brian Greene has teamed up with legendary American composer
Philip Glass for this collaboration. Expect a futuristic reinvention
of the Greek myth set in outer space, featuring a young boy who
challenges the awesome power of a black hole.
Meanwhile, the Gate Teatre (Parnell Square, 01 874 4045;
gatetheatre.ie) presents a stellar cast in the Pulitzer Prize winning
black comedy Glengarry Glen Ross by David Mamet (until
July 14). Other provocative cultural events worth noting are
the Kaleidoscope Music Salon (Odessa Club, Dame Court;
kaleidoscopenight.com) on the frst Wednesday of every month,
which is hosting Dermot Dunne and Elizabeth Cooney this
July. Teres always an eclectic and brilliant range of music, from
ancient to experimental, in intimate surroundings. Project Arts
Centre (Temple Bar, 01 881 9613; projectartscentre.ie) has boldly
decided to host a large-scale celebration of the visual arts, opening
up the entire venue for Conjuring for Beginners (July 3-August
11), featuring some of Irelands most promising young creatives
alongside the 2010 Turner Prize winning artist Susan Philipsz.
Te summer gig to explore is Snow Patrol and Florence +
Te Machine at Phoenix Park on July 8. And speaking of parks,
I will be hanging with the Upstart collective (upstart.ie) who
are designing a sensational pop-up park. Design plans include
a giant theatre space built from reclaimed wooden pallets, an
urban orchard, an outdoor cinema and an eclectic series of live
gigs and light shows.
Te cherished Dublin Flea Market (Newmarket Square,
Dublin 8; dublinfea.ie) on the last Sunday of every month is
another must. Arrive early to browse the treasures; retro record
players are the hottest items this season. If you need just a little bit
more stimulation then check out Le Cool Dublin (lecool.com/
dublin), which curates quirky culture experiences via two-hour
walking tours. Find out about DIY culture, street art, fashion,
hidden city secrets and happenings ahead of the curve.
Above, curator
and creative
producer
Kathy Scott
photographed at
IMMAs temporary
home on Earlsfort
Terrace.
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Green
The Basque capital may not have the beaches of San Sebastin
or the glamour of Biarritz, but for the eco-tourist in search of
wildlife, walks and a laid-back pace, Vitoria-Gasteiz is paradise.
Writer and photographer Roger Norum visits this years
European Green Capital.
The
Dream
74 | JULY 2012
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
1
PLAY CARDS Set in a
16th-century palace
that functioned as a
card printing press,
the Fournier Card
Museum (Calle
Cuchillera 54,
0034 945 181 920)
oers a fascinating
insight into the
history of playing
cards. Showing
the evolution of card games
over time, the collection
here includes printing plates,
presses and thousands of
decks of cards that range
from the satirical to the
parapsychological.
2
FOREST HIKE Southwest of
the city is the 100-hectare
Armentia forest, featuring
footpaths, cycle lanes and
horse-riding trails that connect
the green belt with the
surrounding Vitoria Mountains.
A ve-kilometre walk will lead
you through a dense forest
towards Mount Eskibel, whose
slopes are covered in beech
and oak trees. You can also visit
the Basilica of Armentia, a
gorgeous Romanesque church
and the spiritual centre of the
lava region in medieval times.
3
FOODIE TOUR San
Sebastin Food (0034 634
759 503; sansebastianfood.
com) runs culinary and cultural
tours of the Basque country
throughout the year, including
visits to summer cultural
festivals and Michelin-starred
restaurants throughout the
region. It also organises
half-day cooking classes,
where you can learn to cook
local seafood dishes such as
txangurro al horno (baked
spider crab).
4
RICKSHAW RIDE
Home-grown company
Adbikers (0034 638 452 494;
adbikers.com) operates cycle
rickshaws that pedal visitors
throughout downtown and
out to the citys leafy rural
surrounds. The bikes are
still new enough to the city
that riding around in one
always gets surprised looks
from curious locals. Forget
taxis this is denitely the best
way to get around.
5
BIRDWATCHING SAFARI
Local outdoor outtter
Equinoccio (0034 945 291 256;
equinoccionaturaleza.com)
leads informative birdwatching
tours of the Salbura wetlands
that tell you everything youve
ever wanted to know about
the region and its fauna. The
safaris, which last an entire
afternoon, include a picnic with
local cheeses and wines.
WHAT TODO
V
itoria-Gasteiz.
What does this
rather exotic,
hyphenated name
say to you? If you
are anything like
me, not much.
So if youve
never even heard of this compact
city of 244,000, dont fault yourself.
Nestled among the mountains and
valleys of northern Spain, nearly
65km southeast of Bilbao, Vitoria-
Gasteiz hasnt exactly been
on the map for visitors
to the Basque county. It
doesnt have the beaches of
San Sebastin; it doesnt
have the Guggenheim of
Bilbao; it doesnt have the
glamour of Biarritz. But it
does have one thing that
none of those destinations
has: extremely enviable
green credentials. For
the duration of 2012,
this handsome Basque
settlement holds the title
of European Green Capital, a
prize presented annually to a city
at the forefront of sustainable and
environmentally aware urban living.
When I arrive in Vitoria-Gasteiz
to fnd out what a model eco-
friendly city is like, I begin my
journey at the top: city hall. Many
cities are surrounded by belts,
the citys young mayor, Javier
Maroto Aranzbal, says on a
balmy, spring afternoon. But
its usually a grey belt, with cars
and smoke. We have a belt too,
but ours is very green. Made up of
concentric circles, with an almond-
shaped, medieval stone city at the
centre, his city won this years crown
largely because of this green belt a
47km stretch of reclaimed wilderness,
made up of wetlands, forests,
mountain foothills and numerous
large parks, that encloses the city.
Aranzbal says that the award
has made locals Gasteiztarras, or
Babazorros (bean eaters) in the
Basque language prouder than
ever. We are hard workers who
like to live well. We know who we
are, but dont necessarily talk about
it too much, he explains. Tat
has all changed since weve won
the prize. Now people are proud
to talk about being from Vitoria-
Gasteiz. Teres clearly plenty to
be proud about.
On a breezy afternoon, local
Previous page, a
rural boulevard
through the Basque
country. This page
top, coastal Basque
shing villages
produce outstanding
seafood, above,
author and
photographer,
Roger Norum.
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76 | july 2012
Vitoria-Gasteiz
The Basque Country draws both locals and visitors to its renowned summer
cultural festivals. Some of the best include the San Fermin festival (July 7 in
Lesaka or July 6-14 in Pamplona), Jazz Festival (July 16-21 in Vitoria-Gasteiz),
Fiesta de la Virgen Blanca (August 4-9 in Vitoria-Gasteiz) and
Semana Grande (August 15-24 in Bilbao).
guide Maider Etxebarria takes
me along part of the citys
bicicarriles 98km of bicycle
and pedestrian paths that run all
over the place. Together we stroll
along the cobblestone streets, in
which tram rails are embedded,
towards the medieval centre. A
feet of sleek, carbon-zero trams,
introduced in 2008, has already
reduced trafc congestion,
cut average household petrol
consumption to below 600 litres
per year and returned the streets
to pedestrians and cyclists. Along
the way, Maider and I pass grassy
medians, parklands and lengthy
stretches of road, above which
tower blooming oak trees that look
like they belong in rural France.
Maider shows me the downtown
primary oases of green, the Parque
de El Prado and the Parque de
la Florida, site of the Basque
parliament and where, she adds,
my grandparents met one night
long ago. A map of Vitoria-
Gasteiz contains so many green
Laconic, millenia-
old Basque
towns, such
as Sare on the
French-Spanish
border, are some
of the quaintest
and greenest
in Europe.
eat at
sPLUrGe The Alava regions
only Michelin-starred restaurant
is zaldiaran (Avenida de
Gasteiz 21, 0034 945 134 822,
restaurantezaldiaran.com),
a central gastronomic gem
located next to the courthouse.
Going strong for nearly 30
years, the chefs, who have been
awarded Best Basque Chef of
the Year more than once, serve
a solid amalgam of traditional
and modern cuisine (a tip to
home-bound chefs: their star
ingredient here is truffles). You
can freely order half-portions,
which lets you try out more
dishes though an excellent
tasting menu does just this at a
bargain-basement 55.
MiDPriCe The name of award-
winning eatery MarmitaCo
(Avenida de Judizmendi
4, 0034 945 120 593,
restaurantemarmitaco.wordpress.
com) refers to a Basque festival-
time fishermans stew. The
restaurants GastroGreen
menu is based on local, seasonal
and sustainable products.
Though the menu changes
every three months, they serve
unique goodies such as a foie
gras lollipop with crunchy
pistachio and tomato, and a
scrumptious foam omelette
with fried onions. They also run
workshops, tastings, courses and
conferences throughout the year
dedicated to green eating.
BUDGet Of all the pintxos bars
that line the main streets of the
medieval town, iaki rodaballo
(Calle de Ricardo Buesa 4, 0034
945 222 681, inakirodaballo.
com) is one of the most famous.
Definitely go for the porky-porky,
a great bacon and potatoes dish
(2.50) and, for dessert, the
trifasico de chocolate (2.50).
Snag a seat at the bar, which
allows great people-watching. If
youre big on fresh ingredients,
browse at the citys farmers
market, held on Thursday and
Saturday mornings at the nearby
Plaza de Santa Brbara.
For show & shuttle bus from city centre.
Now booking for 2012 & 2013
One of Dublins
Top 10
Get the free App
78 | JULY 2012
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
Photo credits
here. La feugiam
vullam, sum ipis
eliquamcor sent
at ulla aliquat eum
nim iureros nullum
et wis nos
Clockwise from top left, one of
Vitoria-Gasteizs many parks;
an older Babazorro on the
promenade; antlered resident
of Salbura wetlands; Basque
schoolgirl at festival time.
JULY 2012 | 79
SPLURGE The citys only ve-
star hotel, the Gran Hotel Lakua
(Tarragona 8, 0034 945 181 000;
granhotelakua.com), is just outside
the downtown area in an expanding
residential district, with 147 rooms
and 32 apartment spaces done
up in a variety of colours and
contemporary styles. Theres also a
piano bar and great spa and tness
room. Rooms from 90.
MIDPRICE The spiy, cosy
rooms at the ecient, three-
star AC Hotel General lava
(Avenida de Gasteiz 79, 0034
945 215 000; espanol.marriott.
com) tend to be popular with a
business crowd its right on the
tram line and a ten-minute walk
to the old town. The included
breakfast buet isn t exactly
sprawling, but for these rates you
can aord to gorge yourself on
a big lunch at any of the nearby
pintxos bars. Rooms from 55.
BUDGET One of the citys
more unusual places to stay is
the ornately decorated Hotel
Dato (Calle Dato 28, 0034 945
147 230; hoteldato.com), below.
Although the two-star rooms tend
towards the modest, the entire
property is outtted with colourful
stained-glass window paintings
and classical sculptures that give
it the homely feeling of an elderly
aunts home. Ask for a room with a
balcony. Rooms from 46.
plots that it calls to mind a huge park with a
sprinkling of roads and buildings.
Te sustainable, eco lifestyle thing is
hardly something locals are doing because its
trendy. For millennia, the three million or so
Basques have lived extremely close to their
land an intriguing and handsome landscape
of meadows and moors pitched among the
foothills of the western Pyrenees, between
France and Spain. In fact, Basque nationalism
is based in part on the belief that the Basques
have lived longer in their homeland than any
other peoples in Europe (Before God was
God and boulders were boulders, Basques
were already Basques, goes a local saying). As
Europes self-anointed indigenous people, it
makes sense that they would take good care of
their country.
Accordingly, there is some serious history
here. Just past the citys ancient fortress walls
ramparts that were repeatedly attacked by
Navarran and Castilian kings a millennium ago
stands the gorgeous Santa Maria Cathedral.
Te hulking 12th-century Romanesque and
Gothic structure must be the only church in
the world whose de facto patron saint is a Welsh
thriller novelist. In front of the church stands
a statue of Ken Follett, who spent time here
researching his bestselling novel, World Without
End. Other seemingly random artists have
strong connections to this place too. Wynton
Marsalis, for example, a regular performer at
the citys annual jazz festival, composed his
twelve-part famenco-meets-blues Vitoria Suite
in homage to the city.
After exploring the nooks and crannies of
the old city, I hop on a tricycle rickshaw and
head a few minutes north to Salbura, large
wetlands. Out here, the Badaya mountains
beckon with beech and oak forests and
underground caverns and grottos that
serve as a natural barrier to the winds that
blow down through the Basque country. I
now take you to a place where you can see
birds but they cant see you, local guide
Galder Auzmendi Prez says, before telling
me about the deer, mink, eagles, hawks,
owls and woodpeckers that are all native to
this area. As we settle into a wooden bird
observatory in the heart of the wetlands to
Above, signposts show you the way
in the hilly Basque region, and right,
a stork delivering grub to its storklet
at Salbura.
STAY AT
80 | JULY 2012
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
Aer Lingus flies from
Dublin to Bilbao, Tues,
Thur and Sat.
TOURIST BOARD
For more information on Vitoria-
Gasteiz, visit vitoria-gasteiz.org/
turismo
gawk at waterfowl, Galder whips
out a picnic basket of local cheeses
and a bottle of full-bodied, oak-
aged Tempranillo. Te Basque
country produces hundreds of
wines, and the city is barely an
hour from Frank Gehrys
re-envisioned 70 million
temple to viticulture, the
Marqus de Riscal winery
in Rioja.
Once the Green
Capital crown is passed
to Nantes in France
next year, Vitoria-Gasteiz
will become even greener
thanks to a number of
long-term biocapacity projects.
Te Basque government has
invested some 42 million in the
development of the citys green
credentials. Te green belt will
soon be linked by pathways to the
mountains to the north. Domestic
water use will soon be curbed to
less than 100 litres per person per
day. And dozens of local hotels have
OPENPLAN
An extremely high
proportion of green public
areas means that every single
Gasteizerro lives within 300m
of an open green space. Now
whoever said it aint easy
being green?
This page, top
left, tapas and
sagardoa (cider)
are Basque
staples. Right,
the cathedral
of Santa Maria.
Above, one of
Vitoria-Gasteizs
many medieval
cobblestone
alleyways.
VITORIA-GASTEIZ
already signed a pact committing
to instituting comprehensive
recycling programmes,
attaining Energy Efciency
Certifcation, installing
energy-saving appliances
and lighting in rooms
even planting small,
on-site vegetable and
herb gardens to source
ingredients for the hotels
restaurants.
All this greenness aside,
theres one other thing that makes
visiting this part of Europe a joy:
its food. Tough I have never got
used to the Basques afnity for
eating late were talking 3pm
for lunch and 10pm for dinner
here their meals are defnitely
worth waiting for. At the green-
centric restaurant MarmitaCo,
chef Josean Merino shows me what
local food is all about. Pretty
much everything we do here is
about eating or drinking, he says.
Te Basques are best known for
their pintxos (tx is pronounced
ch as in church) delicious and
afordable, tapas-like portions
of everything from squid to rice
balls, with seafood being central
to Basque cooking. Te Bay of
Biscay and the Cantabrian Sea
produce a plentiful bounty of
mackerel, baby squid, sea bream
and anchovy. Some of their tastiest
dishes include gelatinous chin
of hake cooked in parsley sauce
(kokotxa), tuna pickled in olive oil,
white wine and vinegar (escabeche)
and salted cod (bacalao al pil-pil ).
After dining on one of Joseans
seven-course tapas meals, I am
all set to venture of to my next
destination the 100-hectare
Armentia forest just south of the
city. But the chef stops me in my
tracks: Where do you think youre
going? Here, we stick around at
the table after we eat. We call this
sobremesa. Josean reminds me that
southern Europes eating culture
is not about consumption its
about conviviality, conversation
and community. Sit down and
relax, he orders, before presenting
me with a second dessert, a yummy
pudding cake with pumpkin
and orange drops. Te chef sits back
in his chair after taking a bite himself,
and rests his hands behind his head:
You know, the reason we are so
proud is that we live so well.
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JULY 2012 | 83
With ne dining, dramatic sightseeing, beaches and golf
courses galore, Mallorca caters for the high life. Irish
resident Helen Cummins singles out her favourite spots.
MALLORCA
GRAN HOTEL SON NET is
an old country house set in the
mountains, 20 minutes drive from
Palma. It is best described as
oering old world glamour. (0034
971 147 000; sonnet.es)
My favourite restaurant is 1661 CUINA DE
BANYALBUFAR, a small place by the side
of the street in the heart of the west-coast
town of Banyalbufar. The Mediterranean
food is delicious, light and fresh; the service
is friendly and welcoming, while the town is
authentic Mallorca. The local wine, Cornet, is
highly recommended.
On the south coast, the shing
villages of CALA FIGUERA,
pictured, and CALA SANTANY
are as if time stood still. Its nice
to browse around the small shops
and stop for a coee and chat to
the locals.
For a golfer, Mallorca is paradise
boasting 24 golf courses within one hours
drive. I live in Son Vida behind Palma
so I have a choice of three excellent
golf courses on my doorstep SON
MUNTANER is my favourite.
One of the aspects I love about my job
as a lifestyle magazine editor is trying lots
of restaurants. The best tapas restaurant is
FORN DE SANT JOAN, in part of the old
town of Palma called La Lonja.
(0034 971 728 422; forndesantjoan.com/en)
Mallorca has 262 beaches. My favourite is
CAP DE FORMENTOR in the north of the
island. The clear blue sea and white sandy beach
could easily be mistaken for the Caribbean.
An Insiders Guide to
BEINGTHERE
84 | JULY 2012
Some of the most dramatic
sightseeing is along the WEST
COAST, no matter how many
times I do this day trip it always
takes my breath away. Villages
such as Estellencs, Banyalbufar,
Valldemossa, Dei, Sller and
Fornalutx are beautiful places
to explore.
BEACHLIFE... The beachclub I like to go to withfriends is
PUROBEACHonthe outskirts of Palma the place is ultra cool,
the food is great and the ambience is hipand trendy.
There is no shortage of
spectacular locations on
the sea front just outside
Palma and one of my all-
time favourites is HOSPES
MARICEL & SPA. (0034
971 70 77 44; hospes.com)
For me, PALMA DE MALLORCA is one
of the most beautiful cities in the world. The
hundreds of boats moored in the harbour, the
palm trees lining the promenade that goes on
for miles, and its the perfect place to cycle
when its not too hot.
Boutique and nca (country) hotels are very
popular my favourites include CANCERA (an
old palace) in the heart of Palma (0034 971 715 012;
cancerahotel.com) and PUROHOTEL (0034 971
425 450; purohotel.com), which is the trendy place
to be in the city.
Sometimes I go to the
market on Sunday morning;
the best is in POLLENSA
with lots of stalls selling
fresh owers, fruit and
vegetables as well as
handmade jewellery, bags
and accessories.
Gourmets will have a delicious time
exploring the island, which boasts ve
Michelin-starred restaurants: Zaranda,
Restaurante Jardn, Es Fum, Es Rac
des Teix and Es Mol den Bou. ES
FUMin St Regis Mardavall Hotel is
in my opinion the best restaurant
on Mallorca. (0034 971 629 629;
restaurant-esfum.com)
MORE ABOUT HELEN
Wexford-born Helen Cummins,
who has lived in Mallorca for
twelve years, is the owner/
editor of the luxury lifestyle
magazine abcMallorca. She
enjoys a busy social life, playing
golf, yachting and spending
time with her German husband,
Georg, and six-year-old daughter,
Eva. Helen recently launched
the new website, Luxury
Lifestyle by Helen Cummins, at
helencummins.com and maintains
the highly visited abc-mallorca.
com as well as running a
successful business networking
club on the island.
Aer Lingus ies
from Dublin
to Palma de
Mallorca on
Tue, Thur, Sat
and Sun.
Hand crafted
14ct Gold & Sterling Silver jewellery
engraved with a series of iconic symbols
representing some of the most historical
eras in Irish history.
STERLING SILVER PENDANT
FIND YOUR NEAREST STOCKIST HERE:
PHONE: +353 1 477 9037
DISCOVER THE FULL COLLECTION AND
HISTORY BEHIND EACH SYMBOL AT
WWW. HISTORYOFIRELAND. IE
Follow in the footsteps of your heroes by taking a look behind the scenes at
Aviva Stadium... A tour of Aviva Stadium is a fantastic way to discover more
about the iconic home of Irish rugby and football.
This unmissable tour of Aviva Stadium will lead you into areas that are only accessible to
the players and ofcials on match days.
This privileged inside view of one of the worlds nest and most technologically advanced
stadiums is an experience you will never forget.

Book now, email tours@avivastadium.ie
or phone +353 (0)1 238 2300.
Stadium tours are open all year around, 7 days a week, excluding event day. Pre booking is advised.
BEING THERE
86 | JULY 2012
It may be home to the Eurocrats but there is
plenty of character and colour to enjoy in the
Belgian capital. Tony Clayton-Lea reports.
Photographs by Anthony Woods.
Brussels
T
he frst thing most people think of when Brussels is mentioned is
its status as nominal capital of the EU. Diplomats and politicians
equal Eurocrat blandness? Tere is, perhaps, a certain truth in
this, but when the work is done and the short journey made
from the sleek steel and glass of the Euro headquarters to the city
centre, Brussels can efortlessly transform itself into a multi-cultural melting
pot, with alluring and lived-in character. From high-end shopping along
Avenue Louise to the down-to-earth neighborhood of Marolles and the
breathtaking Grand Place Brussels is, diplomatically speaking, a marvel.
DONT MISS ...
If you havent seen
the Grand Place before,
then prepare to be
gobsmacked. In essence,
this is a triumphant blend
of Baroque and Gothic
architecture, equal parts
imposing and singularly
beautiful. It is, perhaps,
better experienced in the
early morning, before the
hordes of camera-toting
tourists arrive. So why not
go right after breakfast,
choose a caf seat and
soak up the splendour?
To get to the Saint-Gilles
district youll need to either
put on your walking boots
or take a tram or taxi. Its
worth the (short) journey,
as here youll nd the
exquisite Horta Museum.
Dedicated to the life and
work of Ghent-born Victor
Horta, an acclaimed Art
Nouveau architect and
designer, this intimate
museum is light, airy and
exceptionally pretty.
(Closed Mondays; open
Tues-Sun 2pm-5.30pm;
closed July 21st. 7 entry,
25 Rue Amricaine,
hortamuseum.be)
The Magritte
Museumhas become a
must-see for art lovers
since it opened three years
ago. The splendid gallery
features more than 200
works of Magrittes
surrealist art. Advance
(online) booking is
essential, as if its busy
and its busy all year round
you wont gain admission
without a ticket. (Closed
Mondays; Tues-Sun
10am-5pm, 8 entry,
1 Place Royale, musee-
magritte-museum.be)
Walking down from the
Place Royale, youll come
face-to-face with
the Museum of Musical
Instruments (aka the Old
England Building), which,
with its girded steel and
glass faade, is a sight for
Neo-Classical and Art
Nouveau eyes. Inside youll
nd 7,000-plus
instruments, while up on to
its top oor caf, stay for a
coee and a spectacular
view of the city. (Closed
Mondays; Tues-Fri
9.30am-5pm, Sat-Sun
10am-5pm. 5 entry,
Montagne de la Cour
2, mim.be/en)
A quick shopping guide:
for antiques try Place du
Grand Sablon; for high-end
boutiques head to Avenue
Louise; and for trendy
Belgian designer threads,
visit Rue Antoine Dansaert.
4
8
H
O
U
R
S
IN
...
Museum of Musical Instruments
Magritte Museum
JULY 2012 | 87
SLEEP AT
A short walk from the
busy city centre, Hotel Le
Plaza, on Boulevard
Adolphe Max, is one of the
older, grander hotels in
Brussels, designed by
Michel Polak, who used the
George V Hotel in Paris as
his inspiration. Double
rooms from 130 and free
Wi-Fi in all areas (including
bedrooms), make this one a
practical and quality choice.
(leplaza-brussels.be)
If you have a few more
euro to spend and want to
be in the thick of it,
then Hotel Amigo, on Rue
de lAmigo, is perfect.
Situated less than a stones
throw from the Grand
Place, prepare yourself for
a good helping of ve-star
attitude here. Factor in a
serious collection of
artwork that references
the citys famed artists,
Rene Magritte and Herg
(creator of Tintin), and
interior design by the
award-winning Olga Polizzi,
and you have a smart
looking place that oozes
quality. Doubles from
230. (hotelamigo.com)
Another gorgeous hotel a
few minutes walk from the
Grand Place, and right
behind the theatre La
Monnaie, is The
Dominican, on Rue
Lopold, a stylish
establishment (in a
converted convent, no less)
created by the award-
winning architects FG Stijl.
The rooms are quite
reasonable (from 125) and
boast free internet access,
fab bathrooms, and yes,
thank you, God! a
Nespresso machine.
(thedominican.be)
If youre looking to mix
business, pleasure, touristy
things and Michelin-starred
dining, then the ve-
star Radisson Blu
Royal Hotel, on Rue
du Foss-aux-Loups, is
a wise choice. Note the Art
Deco faade, but if that
doesnt get you then the
Sea Grill restaurant and
the hotels close proximity
to a plethora of city-centre
eateries most certainly will.
Rooms from a very
reasonable 111, all with
free Wi-Fi. (radissonblu.
com/royalhotel-brussels)
EAT AND DRINK AT ...
For an altogether quality
and glamorous eating
experience, pay a visit
to Belga Queen, which is
housed within one of the
most decorative belle
poque dining rooms
(designed by Antoine Pinto)
youll ever have the
pleasure of sitting in. The
menu is sh-oriented, but
also comes with interesting
meat/poultry dishes such
as cuckoo. Expensive? Yes,
but what do you expect
from a classy restaurant
located in a former bank?
(Rue du Foss-aux-Loups
32, belgaqueen.be)
Close by the Belga
Queen is A La Mort
Subite. This bar is a rarity
a Brussels institution that
isnt too touristy. Its a
great place to while away
an hour or two, oering
distinct atmosphere and
more Belgian beers than
youll ever have time for
during a long weekend.
(Rue Montagne-aux-
Herbes Potagres,
alamortsubite.com)
For somewhere central
but just o the beaten
track, make your way to Bij
den Boer, a sh restaurant
with an antique dcor that
seems as if it could have
been around since the
Boer War. (Quai aux
Briques 60, bijdenboer.com)
For somewhere just as
distinctive, try Soul, an
organic fusion restaurant
close to the Place du
Sablon. Using food sourced
as much as possible from
organic farms, Souls
kitchen is free of butter
and cream, its freshly
prepared food free of
additives, preservatives
and white sugar. In a word?
Delicious. (Rue de la
Samaritaine, soulresto.com)
Also close to the Place
du Sablon is one of the
citys oldest bars La Fleur
en Papier Dor. Once
frequented by surrealists
Rene Magritte and Paul
Rouge, this traditional
place oozes history and art.
Denitely worth a quick
detour. (53 Rue des
Alexiens, 0032 2511 1659,
laeurenpapierdore.be)
From far left, the
terrace at the
grand old Hotel
Le Plaza, ve-star
style at Hotel
Amigo, and above,
a friendly welcome
awaits you at A La
Mort Subite.
Above, from far left,
the Grand Palace, best
experienced in the early
morning before the crowds; a
glamorous eating experience
at the Belga Queen; sh
restaurant, Bij den Boer.
Aer Lingus ies fromDublin to
Brussels daily, and fromCork
to Brussels, Mon, Wed and Fri.
specialists in delivering world class projects
for companies directly investing in lreland
Pharmaceuticals
Microprocessors
Datacentres
Clean Room
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Commercial
Property
Fit-out
Site Development
Infrastructure
Images clockwise from top left: Lilly, Pzer, Pzer (lab), Takeda
www.bamcontractors.ie
Call Mike Jones on 00 353 87 629 7738
Sectors and services include
For your guide to our new and exciting
On Demand movies and television
programmes, including Boardwalk
Empire (pictured), turn to page 96.
InFlight
JULY 2012 | 89
For your comfort and safety
Please pay attention while the
cabin crew demonstrate the
use of the safety equipment
before take-o. Also, make
sure to read the safety
instruction card, which is in
the seat pocket in front of you.
Seat belts must be fastened
during take-o and landing,
and whenever the Fasten
Seat Belts sign is switched on.
We recommend that you keep
your seat belt loosely fastened
throughout the ight.
Your seat must be in the
upright position during take-
o and landing, but can be
reclined by pressing the large
button in the armrest. Other
buttons (in the armrest or
above your head, depending
on the aircraft) may be used
to operate your reading light
and air vent, or to call a cabin
attendant.
Portableelectronic equipment
Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a
potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular
attention to the following:
Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched o and stowed
safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to
transmit or receive data during the ight, however devices equipped with ight mode, or
the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is
switched o.

DEVICESPERMITTED
ATANYTIME: Devices
powered by micro battery cells
and/or by solar cells; hearing
aids (including digital devices);
pagers (receivers only); heart
pacemakers.

DEVICESPERMITTED
INFLIGHTBUTNOT
DURINGTAXI/TAKE-OFF/
INITIALCLIMB/APPROACH
LANDING: Laptops with CD
ROMor DVDdrive, palmtop
organisers, handheld calculators
without printers, portable
audio equipment (eg Walkman,
CD-player, Mini-disk player,
iPod and MP3-player). For the
comfort of other passengers,
audio devices should be used
with a headset. Computer games
(eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).
Video cameras/recorders, digital
cameras, GPS handheld receivers,
electric shavers, electronic toys.
Bluetooth devices with mobile
phones in Flight mode, devices
with Blackberry technology
with Flight/Flight Safe mode
selected, laptops, PDAs with
built-in Wi-Fi with Wireless O
setting selected.

DEVICES PROHIBITED
AT ALL TIMES: Devices
transmitting radio frequency
intentionally such as walkie-
talkies, remote controlled toys;
wireless computer equipment (eg
mouse, keyboard); PCprinters,
DVD/CDwriters and Mini-disk
Recorders in the recording
mode; digital camcorders when
using CDwrite facility; portable
stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/
FM); TV receivers; telemetric
equipment; peripheral devices
for handheld computer games
(eg supplementary power packs
connected by cable); wireless
LAN(WLAN). Laptops with
built-in WLAN(eg Centrino) may
be used during ight, provided
the WLANoption is turned o
and subject to the restrictions
associated with the use of
laptops detailed above.
Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le
do shbhilteacht ...
... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a
thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann
cbin ag ts na heililte
agus iad ag taispeint
conas an fearas slndla a
sid. Iarraimid ort an crta
threoraca slndla at i bpca
an tsuochin os do chomhair a
lamh chomh maith.
Caithfear criosanna sbhla
bheith ceangailte le linn ir
agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon
am a bhonn an comhartha
Fasten Seat Belts ar iasadh.
Molaimid duit an crios sbhla
bheith leathcheangailte agat i
rith an turais.
Le linn ir agus tuirlingthe, n
mr do shuochan bheith sa
suomh ingearach. Ag am ar
bith eile, is fidir an suochn
a chur siar ach br ar an
gcnaipe mr at ar an taca
uillinne. T cnaip eile ann
(ar an taca uillinne n os do
chionn, ag brath ar an eitlen)
chun sid a bhaint as an
solas litheoireachta n as an
ngaothaire, n chun glaoch ar
bhall den fhoireann cbin.
Aboard Welcome
90 | JULY 2012
Fearas iniompartha leictreonach
Is fidir lefearas iniomparthaleictreonachcur isteachar threalamhaneitlein, rudadfhadfadhbheith
contirteach. Agus sbhilteacht mar phromhchramagAer Lingus, iarraimidort airdsabhreis athabhairt ar an
mr seoaleanas:
Caithfear gach guthn pca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a
luaithe agus a dhntar doirse an eitlein. N ceadmhach sid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonra
a tharchur n a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, fach, uirlis le cumas md eitilte, n a chomhionann
sin, a sid. Caithfear an lipad modh eitilte a roghn sula mchtar an uirlis.

GLASANNA A BHFUIL
CEADAITHE I GCNA:
Glasanna a bhaineann sid as
micreaceallair agus/n fotaichill;
cluaisn chnta (glasanna
digiteach san ireamh); glaoir
(gleacadin amhin); sadair.

GLASANNAAT
CEADAITHEI RITH
NAHEITILTE, ACHNACH
BHFUILCEADAITHELELINN
DONEITLENBHEITHAG
GLUAISEACHTARTALAMH/AG
IR DETHALAMH/ AGTABHAIRT
FAOINDREAPADHTOSAIGH/
AGDRIARTHUIRLINGT/
AGTUIRLINGT: Romhair gline
le tiomntn dlthdhiosca (CD
ROM) n diosca digiteach ilside
(DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise.
ireamhin limhe gan phrintiri.
Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms
Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir
Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar
mhaithe le compordna bpaisiniri
eile, nor choir na glasanna seo a
sidach amhin le cluaisn. Cluich
romhaire (ms Gameboy). Nl cead
gaireas forimeallach a sidle
cluich limhe romhaire amar bith
(ms paca forlontach cumhachta a
cheanglatear le cbla). Fscheamara
agus fstaifeadin, trealamh
digiteach san ireamh. Ceamara
digiteach. Glacadir limhe chras
suite domhanda (GPS). Rsir
leicreacha. Bragin leictreonacha
(seachas bragin chianrialaithe).
Glasanna Bluetooth i gcomhar
le guthin phca agus iadi modh
eitilte; uirlis a bhaineann feidhm
as teicneolaocht Blackberry agus
mdeitilte n slnmhdeitilte
roghnaithe orthu; romhair gline;
romhair boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite
agus an lipadraidi mchta
roghnaithe orthu.

GLASANNAABHFUIL
COSCIOMLNORTHU:
Glasanna a tharchuireann
minicocht raidi daon turas.
Silscalaithe. Bragan
chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhstaispena
le feadin ga-chatadideacha.
Trealamh romhaire gan sreang (ms
luch). Printir PC. Schrbhneoiri
DVD, CDagus taifeadin Mini-
disk at sa mhodh taifeadta.
Ceamthaifeadin digiteacha agus
iad ag athscrobh dlthdhiosca.
Steirnna iniompartha. Raidinna
pca (AM/ FM). Glacadiri teilifse.
Trealamh teilimadrach. N
cheadatear fearas LANgan sreang
(WLAN) a sid. Is fidir romhair
gline a bhfuil WLANionsuite iontu
(ms Centrino) a sd le linn na
heitilte ar choinnoll go bhfuil WLAN
curtha as agus faoi rir na srianta
a bhaineann le hsid romhhair
gline (thuas luaite).
Food and bar
service
A new range of food items
including sandwiches,
confectionery and a range of
snacks is available for sale
on all Aer Lingus scheduled
services to and from the UK
and Europe. A charge applies
for all drinks on UK and
European ights in Economy
class. On long haul ights,
there is a charge in Economy
class for alcoholic drinks, while
soft drinks are complimentary.
Details of all items available
for purchase are contained in
an information leaet, which is
in all seat pockets.
News, music
and movies
On long haul ights, we oer
you an extensive programme
of viewing and listening
options. For full details, turn
towards the back of this
magazine.
Seirbhs bia
agus beir
T raon nua bia ar fil anois
ar sheirbhs sceidealta Aer
Lingus a dhanann freastai
ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus
ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, t
ceapair, milseogra agus rogha
sneaiceanna agsla. N mr
oc as gach deoch sa ghrd
barainne ar na heitilt seo.
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha, t
costas ar dheochanna neamh-
mheiscila go fill ar fil saor
in aisce. T sonra faoi gach
rud is fidir a cheannach ar
bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais
at i bpca an tsuochin os
do chomhair.
Nuacht, ceol
agus scannin
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha t
clr leathan fachana agus
isteachta ar fil. Le hagaidh
tuilleadh eolais, fach
deireadh na hirise seo.
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board
T thas ar Aer Lingus filte ar bord a chur romhat
SMOKING
In line with Irish government
regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-
smoking policy onboard its ights.
Smoking is not permitted in any
part of the cabin at any time.
TOBAC
De rir rialachin Rialtas na hireann,
t polasai i rimar eitilt Aer Lingus
nach gceadatear tobac a chaitheamh.
N cheadatear daon duine tobac a
chaitheamh in aon chuid
den eitlen ag aon am.
We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant fight. Thank you for choosing to fy with Aer Lingus.
T suil againn go mbonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.
JULY 2012 | 91
News AerLingus
Aer Lingus as the ocial
airline of Irelands Olympic
Team wishes all those
involved a happy and
successful Olympic Games.
We look forward to ying
the team on the special
homecoming ight to Dublin
in August.
Aer Lingus has made checking in when travelling with
children hassle-free, with the launch of a new dedicated
check-in facility for families at T2, Dublin airport.
Families travelling with children can avoid queuing and
drop o car seats and buggies in this new location close
to the oversize baggage belt. Customer assistance sta
will be on hand to welcome little passengers, speed up
the process and ensure that every trip starts on an easy,
welcoming note.
AER LINGUS LAUNCHA DEDICATED
FAMILYCHECK-INDESK
Members of Aer Lingus cabin crewwho are Ambassadors for the Change for
Good partnership celebrate with LiamNeeson fromleft to right, Harvey Gill,
Liz Mangan, Lynsey Glasgow, Robert OReilly and Shane Hodnett.
UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador Liam Neeson took time during his
visit to Dublin to help celebrate the 15th Anniversary of UNICEF
Irelands Change for Good partnership with Aer Lingus, that
has raised nearly 12 million (US$15 million) for UNICEFs work for
children in over 150 countries across the world. Every day, Change
for Good collections take place on-board Aer Lingus trans-
atlantic ights but in times of crisis, special Change for Good
collections also take place on all Aer Lingus ights for UNICEFs
emergency fund.
Aer Lingus would like to thank its customers for their generosity
in supporting the UNICEF Change for Good campaign. We would
also like to thank our cabin crew who have made a huge contribution
to this achievement.
LIAMNEESONFLYINGHIGHWITHAER LINGUS
ANDUNICEF IRELANDAS THE PARTNERSHIP
CELEBRATES ITS 15th ANNIVERSARY
At T2 Dublin Airport Aer Lingus CEO Christoph
Mueller with Olympic hopeful, boxer Katie Taylor.
92 | JULY 2012
News
GoldCirCle Benefits
As a service to our Gold Circle applicant members we are delighted to ofer
existing BMI Diamond Club Blue, Gold and Silver members the opportunity to
match their current Diamond Club status to their Gold Circle account.
BMI Blue members are eligible for Gold level membership of
our Gold Circle Club, BMI Silver members can avail of our
Gold Circle Prestige level benefts and BMI Gold level
members will be ofered all the benefts of Gold Circle Elite
membership.
Gold Circle Tier membership ofers you the ability to redeem
your existing Gold Circle points for reward fights and all tier members have access
to Gold Circle lounges when travelling on Aer Lingus fights. Full details of all Gold
Circle membership benefts can be found on our website aerlingus.com
To avail of this ofer Gold Circle applicant members should visit
aerlingusgreendiamond.com and complete the tier matching request form.
AerLingus
The AerLingus ViscounT AwArds
The Aer Lingus Viscount Awards, in association with Ulster
Business and South East Business Insider, took place in London
on May 22nd.
The Awards, now in their fourth consecutive year, look to
honour those companies who have forged vital economic
ties between Northern Ireland and the rest of the UK, in
particular the South of England, thus playing an important
role in the reciprocal development of these regions.
Amongst the recipients, the Aer Lingus Viscount Award for
Overall Excellence was awarded to Chain Reaction Cycles
(pictured left), whose 30 per cent growth year on year was
deemed by the judges to be the epitome of true excellence.
oVer 20,000rAised for unicef
ireLAnd cycLe chALLenge
Left to right are Symon Ross, editor of Ulster Business, Paul
McKernan, Chain Reaction Cycles, Declan Kearney, director of
communications at Aer Lingus, Tracey Smith, Chain Reaction
Cycles and Michael Taylor, editorial director at Insider.
Above, Mr. Tayto gets a helping hand from cabin crew
members claire sutton and emma Mcdonnell as he boards
his Aer Lingus fight to Poland to cheer on the boys in
green. Aer Lingus would like to wish the irish team the
very best of luck in euro 2012.
A special collection took place on board all Aer Lingus fights from May
24 to June 1. During this time Aer Lingus cabin crew member and UNICEF
ambassador, Brian Rutter, along with a team of supporters, undertook a
charity cycle between all Aer Lingus bases in Ireland including Dublin, Cork,
Shannon and Belfast. The monies collected will help to support the lives of
vulnerable Zambian children through UNICEFs education programme.
Aer Lingus gold circle Lounge T2, dublin airport
juLY 2012 | 93
ACTOF VALOR
Action / Adventure / Thriller (R)
110 minutes
An unprecedented blend of real-life
heroismand original flmmaking, Act of Valor
stars a group of active-duty US Navy SEALs
in a flmlike no other in Hollywoods history.
Act of Valor features a gripping story that
takes audiences on an adrenaline-fuelled,
edge-of-their-seat journey. A mission to
recover a kidnapped CIA operative results
in the discovery of a terrifying global threat,
as a result an elite teamof highly trained
Navy SEALs must immediately embark on
a heart-stopping secret operation. This
ultimate action adventure movie showcases
the training and tenacity of the greatest
action heroes of themall: real Navy SEALs.
STARS Alex Veadov, Roselyn Sanchez,
Nestor Serrano
DiReCTOR Mike McCoy, Scott Waugh
More Movies On Demand
GONe
Amanda Seyfried
W.e.
Abbie Cornish
MAN ON A LeDGe
Elizabeth Banks
YOUNGADULT
Charlize Theron
GOOD DeeDS
Tyler Perry
GAMe CHANGe
Julianne Moore
STARBUCK
Patrick Huard
THe GReY
Liam Neeson
DARK TiDe
Halle Berry
JOURNeY 2:
MYSTeRiOUS iSLAND
Dwayne The Rock Johnson
A WARRiORS HeART
Kellan Lutz
LADY AND
THe TRAMP
Peggy Lee
TOOTHFAiRY 2
Larry The Cable Guy
DUMBO
Verna Felton
TANGLeD
Mandy Moore
JOHN CARTeR
Action / Family/ Fantasy (PG 13)
132 minutes
Directed by Academy Awardwinning
flmmaker AndrewStanton, this inventive
science-fction flmis based on the novel
series by Edgar Rice Burroughs. Former
military captain John Carter is inexplicably
transported to Mars, known as Barsoom.
Stranded on this lush, wildly diverse planet
whose main residents are twelve-foot
tall green barbarians, Carter becomes
a prisoner of these creatures. When he
escapes, he reluctantly becomes embroiled
in a confict of epic proportions. Carter
rediscovers his humanity when he realises
that the survival of Barsoomand its people
rests in his hands.
STARSTaylor Kitsch, Lynn Collins,
Samantha Morton, Ciaran Hinds, Dominic
West, Thomas Haden Church, Willem
Dafoe, Emily Mortimer
DiReCTOR Andrew Stanton
This Means War
John Carter
Act of Valor
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
From Dublin to Boston, Chicago,
New York and Orlando;
from Shannon to Boston and
New York; from Madrid to
Washington. Movies available
are listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
THiS MeANS WAR
Action/ Romance/ Comedy (PG 13)
97 minutes
Chris Pine and TomHardy portray the
worlds deadliest CIAoperatives who are
also inseparable partners and best friends
until they fall for the same woman. Having
once helped bring down entire enemy
nations, they are nowemploying their
incomparable skills and an endless array of
high-tech gadgetry against their greatest
nemesis ever each other. The woman they
fall for is Lauren. Lauren cant believe her
luck as she has gone frombeing single to
dating two very handsome and perfect men.
As the guys realise they are attracted to the
same woman, their competitive instincts kick
in. This means trouble This Means War!
STARSReese Witherspoon, Chris Pine,
Tom Hardy, Chelsea Handler
DiReCTOR McG
94 | july 2012
iNFLiGHT ENTERTAINMENT
ALBERT NOBBS
Drama (R)
113 minutes
Five-time Academy Award nominee
Glenn Close stars as Albert Nobbs in
this emotional and thought-provoking
tale of a woman forced to live as a man
in 19th century Ireland. After 30 years of
keeping up the charade and passing as a
man in order to work and survive, a new
love threatens to destroy everything shes
worked so hard to build. Some 30 years
after donning mens clothing, she fnds
herself trapped in a prison of her own
making. She hopes one day she might live a
normal life as we catch a glimpse of a free-
spirited woman caught in the wrong time.
STARSGlenn Close, Mia Wasikowska,
Brendan Gleeson, Brenda Fricker,
Janet McTeer
DiREcTOR Rodrigo Garca
More Movies On Demand
cONTRABAND
Mark Wahlberg
THiS MUST BE THE
PLAcE
Sean Penn
cHRONicLE
Alex Russell
WUTHERiNGHEiGHTS
James Howson
ONE FOR THE MONEY
Katherine Heigl
GHOST RiDER: SPiRiT OF
VENGEANcE
Nicolas Cage
HAYWiRE
Michael Fassbender
LA DELicATESSE
Audrey Tautou
JEFF WHOLiVES AT HOME
Jason Segel
JOYFUL NOiSE
Dolly Parton
THE VOW
Rachel McAdams
ScOOBY DOO! MUSic OF
THE VAMPiRE
Frank Welker
TOY STORY 3
Tom Hanks
THE PRiNcESS
AND THE FROG
Anika Noni Rose
BENEATH THE DARkNESS
Dennis Quaid
BiGMiRAcLE
Comedy / Drama / / Family (PG)
107 minutes
Set in Cold War-era 1988, Big Miracle tells
the true story of a small-town news reporter
and Greenpeace volunteer (Barrymore)
who enlists the help of rival superpowers
to save three majestic grey whales trapped
under the ice of the Arctic circle. The media
uproar captivates viewers around the world,
unifying the globe in a single cause of hope.
Inspired by the true story that captured
the hearts of people across the world, this
is a truly amazing tale of those who joined
forces with those of difering beliefs to save
a family of majestic grey whales in small
town Alaska.
STARSDrewBarrymore, Dermot Mulroney,
TedDanson, JohnKrasinski, KristenBell
DiREcTOR Ken Kwapis
21 Jump Street
Albert Nobbs
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
From Boston, Chicago, New
York and Orlando to Dublin;
from New York and Boston to
Shannon; from Washington to
Madrid. Movies available are
listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
Big Miracle
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
21 JUMP STREET
Action / Comedy (R)
109 minutes
In the action-comedy 21 Jump Street,
Schmidt and Jenko are more than ready to
leave their adolescent problems behind.
Joining the police force and the secret
Jump Street unit, they use their youthful
appearances to go undercover in a local
high school. As they trade in their guns
and badges for backpacks, Schmidt and
Jenko risk their lives to investigate a drug
ring. They soon discover that high school is
nothing like they left it a few years earlier
and neither expects the terror and anxiety
of being a teenager again and all the issues
they thought they had left behind.
STARSJonah Hill, Channing Tatum,ska.
Brie Larson, Rob Riggle, Dave Franco,
DeRay Davis
DiREcTOR Chris Miller
july 2012 | 95
On Demand TV gives you the opportunity
to select and view your favourite TV
shows at your leisure. Look out for the
most anticipated new shows on TV in this
extensive choice of comedy and drama as
well as a variety of exciting genres. Brand
New COMEDYHIGHLIGHTS take in New
Girl, Raising Hope, Modern Family, The Big
Bang Theory, Family Guy, Mike and Molly
and from HBO dont miss Enlightened, How
to Make It in America, Bored to Death and
Curb your Enthusiasm. Classic comedy
features the brilliant Gavin and Stacey and
two episodes and a treat for the ladies in
Sex and the City.
As we witness a golden age in TV drama,
Aer Lingus brings you a captivating choice
of DRAMA TV with the availability of both
one-of and multiple episodes. Watch out
for an episode of Homeland, an intriguing
drama with an immensely talented cast,
this gripping thriller stars Clare Danes,
Showtimes edgy, edge-of-your-seat series,
is, bar none, the best thriller on American
TV. (New York Post) Also featuring is Boss
starring Kelsey Grammer, as well as Ringer
starring Sarah Michelle Gellar, The show
is great fun, and clearly the star herself is
having fun in the lead roles. (San Francisco
Chronicle) The always popular CSI NY
ON DEMAND
enhances this choice of popular Drama
programming.
Exclusively available On-Demand are
six episodes of Season 2 from the HBO
triumph Boardwalk Empire, Steve Buscemi
stars in this award-winning and hit drama
series that charts the continued rise of
organised crime at the dawn of Prohibition.
According to the Hollywood Reporter,
Its essential viewing. All of the promise
of last season looks to be realised with
impressively deft storytelling, beautiful
cinematography and impeccable acting.
Premium HBO drama continues
in Treme with the frst six episodes of
Season 2. This Emmy-nominated drama
series takes place during the rebuilding of
post-Katrina New Orleans, and charts the
interconnected stories of several struggling
musicians and locals as they attempt to
rebuild their lives through the music and
cultural traditions that make them, and the
city, unique.
One of TVs distinctive series is Mad
Men, set in a 1960s advertising agency in
New York; this complex, intelligent and
entertaining slick drama imagines mid-
century Americana as a dreamily, if painfully,
transformative era. Available On-Demand
are six episodes from Season 4.
Six episodes of
Season 2 of Blue
Bloods starring Tom
Selleck is one to
watch. Blue Bloods
is a solid, character-
driven, multi-story
serial drama. Sellecks
character serves as
the anchor for four
generations of police
ofcers.
Award-winning
drama continues
with The Good Wife
a drama about a
politicians wife who pursues her own career
as a defense attorney after her husband
is charged with political corruption. Julia
Margulies has been widely recognised for
her portrayal of Alicia Florrick, winning an
Emmy in 2011, Screen Actors Guild Awards
in 2010 and 2011, a Golden Globe in 2009.
Available On-Demand are six episodes from
Season 3.
TEENS onboard can view Glee, Shake it
Up and 90210 and kids can enjoy Angelina
Ballerina, Bob the Builder, Fireman Sam
and Pingu.
LIFESTYLE, SPORT ANDMUSIC
HIGHLIGHTS include Other Voices,
The Brit Awards 2012, Glastonbury 2011,
Destination London, UEFA2012 Magazine
Show, HSBCGolfng World, Masterchef
Ireland, Jamie Cooks Summer, Project
Runway, Biography Channel (retrospective
on Whitney Houston), Movie Talk and Inside
the Actors Studio (Brad Pitt).
DOCUMENTARYHIGHLIGHTS take
in Megafactories (Jack Daniels), National
Geographics Most Amazing Photos, David
Attenboroughs First Life, The Making
of Human Planet, Destination Extreme,
Waterways (The Royal Canal), Extreme
Frontiers (with Charlie Boorman), Horizons,
and the feature documentary Rise and
Shine: The Jay Demerit Story.
Modern family
Mad Men
Treme
Television
INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT
96 | july 2012
Radio
ON DEMAND
Chart Hits
Chart Hits lets you
discover the latest
chart hits as well
as keeping tabs
on your favourite
artists. This up-
to-the-minute Pop show unveils the
biggest smash hits from the worlds
biggest artists. Featuring newcomers
to the scene Nicki Minaj and Emeli
Sand as well as established artists
Katy Perry, Usher, Coldplay, Adele
and the queen of pop Madonna
do not miss the exciting sounds of
Chart Hits.
Ofthe Ball/Sport
Saturday
To coincide with the UEFA Euro 2012,
Newstalk presents Of the Ball and
Sport Saturday highlights include
interviews with Paul McGrath and
Niall Quinn. The PPI award-winning
Of the Ball is innovative and engaging
and manages to combine serious
discussion with an ability to make you
laugh. Catch the lads every night from
7pm. Sport Saturday presenter Ger
Gilroy follows the action as it happens
with his teamof reporters. Tune into
Ger Gilroy every Saturday from2pm.
newstalk.ie
Fitzpatrick Hotels
This is a contemporary easy-listening
collection of songs from both sides
of the Atlantic, brought to you
compliments of The Fitzpatrick
Hotel Group USA. With two hotels
in downtown Manhattan, Grand
Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan,
Fitzpatricks is the place to stay in
NYC. Visit their website for more
information ftzpatrickhotels.com.
Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on
Twitter & Facebook.
Classical Daytime
Niall Carroll presents a selection
of great music from the heart
of the core classical repertoire.
Classical Daytime features some
of the worlds most loved relaxing
classics including Mozarts Clarinet
Concerto, Rodrigos Guitar
masterpiece Concierto de Aranjuez
and Saint-Saens Symphony No.3,
Organ. This show is the ideal
accompaniment to your fight and
Classical Daytime can also be
enjoyed on RT lyric fm Monday-
Friday from 10am-2pm.
My Tunes
In this edition of My Tunes Aedn
Gormley invites flm director John
Boorman to select, listen to and
discuss music from his flms. The
renowned flm director has made
Ireland his home and here he
discusses a lifetime of making flms
with a particular emphasis on the role
of music in his flms from the duelling
banjos of Deliverance to Richie
Buckleys snazzy saxophone tunes
in The General. My Tunes is on RT
lyric fm on Mondays from 7pm-8pm.
Twitter @RTlyricfm
Jazz Alley
Donald Helme devotes Jazz Alley to
the most popular instrument in the
western world, the guitar, in both 6
and 7-string form. Helme focuses on
the guitar which only came late to
jazz, once the amplifer was invented
in the 1930s. Featured artists include
Anthony Wilson, Chuck Wayne,
Howard Alden and the inventor
of the 7-string, George Van Eps.
Jazz Alley is on RT lyric fmon
Wednesday evenings from7pm-8pm.
Twitter @RTlyricfm
Documentary On One
Documentary On
One is the multi-
award winning radio
documentary strand
fromRT Radio 1
(88-90FM). Currently
the most successful documentary
unit in the world; the documentary
featured here is On a Cape Clear
Day and focuses on an American
couple who retired to Cape Clear
Island of the coast of Ireland. The
website rte.ie/doconone contains over
900 radio documentaries all freely
available to listen to/podcast. You can
also download the free Documentary
on One iPhone and/or Android app.
Twitter @RTEDocOnOne
Best of Moncrief
Best of Moncrief is a lively mix
of funny, engaging and irreverent
features. Its insightful format
gives listeners a unique listening
experience. Tune into Best of
Moncrief every weekday from
1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm
for a lively mix of phone-ins, text
messages and stories from around
the world and down your street.
Text 53106, email afternoon@
newstalk.ie or follow Sean on
Twitter @SeanMoncrief.
july 2012 | 97
Radio
ON DEMAND
Ceol na nGael
Ceol na nGael is a
traditional and folk
music programme
presented, in
Irish, by Sen
hanaigh. Sen
presents the weekly music programme
Sruth na Maoile on RT Raidi na
Gaeltachta. The station is the national
Irish language broadcaster in Ireland,
and celebrates 40 years on air in
2012. Ceol traidisinta agus ceol tre
den scoth, le Sen hanaigh. For
more visit: rte.ie/rnag. RT Raidi na
Gaeltachta is on Facebook and Twitter
@RTERnaG.
RT Jr
Join Colm Flynn
and all his friends
from The Club on
RTjr Radio for a
fun packed show
to enjoy during
your fight! Theres music, a Disney
quiz, fun facts about fying, books,
and special guests Jedward! RTjr
Radio is Irelands only radio station
thats just for children. You can tune
in on your digital radio, online rte.
ie/digitalradio/rtejr Saorview and
on the RT Radio Player on your
mobile device to hear more.
Ronan Collins
RT Radio 1
presenter Ronan
Collins easygoing
personality is a
welcome interlude
from the busy
world around us. With a cheeky
grin, Ronan enjoys the challenge of
flling his programme with the kind
of music that will make you smile,
relax and reminisce. Tune in to hear
old favourites, new hits and hidden
gems. Twitter @RTERadio1
Copeland Classics
Welcome to the music of Copeland
Classic Hits brought to you courtesy
of Louis Copeland and Sons, a name
synonymous with mens tailoring in
Dublin. Louis Copeland is a world
renowned master tailor and provider
of mens designer suits for over 100
years. Louis Copeland and Sons
can be found in Dublin on Capel St,
Pembroke St and Wicklow St and
beside the IFSC, as well as at Dublin
Airport and in Galway on Merchants
Road. From Armani, Brioni, Hugo
Boss and Paul Smith all leading
labels are available at their stores.
louiscopeland.com
Tubridy
Ryan Tubridys
unique
showmanship,
intelligence and
wit is broadcast to
the nation every
weekday morning. Spontaneous,
unpredictable, entertaining and
intelligent, Tubridy takes in everything
from the days news to huge
competitions, from big interviews to
human-interest stories. Ryan Tubridy
is one of Irelands most prolifc
broadcasters and his RT 2fm show
raises the bar for morning radio.
Twitter @Tubridy2fm
Phantom 105.2
Phantom 105.2
is quite simply
the home of
the very best
music played on
any Irish radio
station. Phantom is committed to
playing brand new music, Indie Rock
but really we will play all genres of
music if its a great track, we will
play it. Oh, we also like having a bit
of craic along the way so why not
try something diferent and tune
into Phantom 105.2 we promise
you wont be disappointed! We are
Phantom music that rocks!
C
Cleared for Take-Of
Youre
cleared for
take-of
every weekday morning from 6am
until 10am with Pat Courtenay on
Radio Nova. Also tune in to Nova
for Breakfast Reheated every
Saturday from 8am until 10am.
Courtenays show is a perfect
combination of entertainment
and of course the worlds greatest
guitar-based songs. You can call
Nova Breakfast on (01) 440 4 100.
Were online at nova.ie and you can
download our app to listen to us
wherever you are in the world.
The Big 10
The Big 10 on
98FM features
ten songs with
a connection.
Tune into the
countdown every Sunday morning at
10am as we countdown The Big 10,
each week a diferent set of songs
are featured each with a diferent
connection. Presented by Darragh
ODea of Dublins 98 FM, this special
edition of the show focuses on the
acts that will be playing concerts in
Ireland this year.
98 | JUly 2012
Theres no shop quite like this
Blackabbey, Adare, Co. Limerick - (061) 395734 www.oldcreameryco.com
Find us on Facebook
Explore the magical miniature world of Taras Palace Museum of Child-
hood at Powerscourt House. Each room in Taras Palace is furnished
with miniature masterpieces, hand painted ceilings and hand crafted
wooden and marble floors. Perfect for all ages from 5 to 105.
THE MUSEUM IS HOME TO IRELANDS
LARGEST PERIOD DOLLS HOUSE
Powerscourt House, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow, Ireland
CALL: +353 (0)1 2748090 EMAIL: info@taraspalace.ie
www.taraspalace.ie
All profits
are donated to
Irish Childrens
Charities
DUBLINS OLDEST THAI RESTAURANT
LOCATED AT THE HEART OF DUBLIN CITY CENTRE
Dinner Tuesday - Saturday from 5.30
Lunch Tuesday - Sunday from 12.30
2 Course Lunch c9.95
2 Course Early bird c14.95
3 Course Set Menu c25.00
Al la Carte Menu and Extensive Wine Menu
1 Annes lane | South Anne Street| Dublin 2
www.chiliclub.ie
Reservations online or +353 1 6773721
OnThe Doorstep of the Merrion, Shelbourne,
Conrad,Westbury and Fitzwilliam Hotels
Safety brief
We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures:
Please pay attention to any
instructions given to you by the
cabin crew.
Any behaviour towards a fellow
passenger or cabin crew that
is deemed to be threatening or
abusive (including the use of
oensive language) is a serious
matter.
As our priority is the safety of
all passengers, it is important
not to interrupt the cabin
crew while they carry out their
duties, and not to interfere with
aircraft equipment.
As a service to passengers,
alcohol is served in the airport
lounges and on board. In the
interests of safety, Aer Lingus
may refuse to allow you board
if it is thought too much alcohol
has been consumed. While
the majority of passengers
are responsible, there have
occasionally been incidents
where intoxicated passengers
have caused serious safety
hazards. Passengers are
reminded also that during the
ight you may not consume
any alcohol brought onto the
aircraft by you or any other
passenger. The consumption
inight of Duty Free alcohol
purchased from the Sky
Shopping service is also
prohibited. This measure is,
again, necessary in the interests
of ight safety.
If incidents of this kind occur
during a ight, the cabin crew
is obliged to contact police on
arrival at your nal destination.
The Aircraft Captain may also
divert the ight enroute in
order to remove disruptive
passengers. Should this
happen, Aer Lingus will not
be responsible for getting
you home, your ticket money
will not be refunded, and in
addition to the authorities
awaiting you on landing you
could be heavily ned and/or
be liable to a prison sentence.
In many cases, other airlines
may subsequently refuse to
allow you to y with them.
We emphasise that while on
board the aircraft our priority
is your safety. As always, we
wish you a safe and enjoyable
ight, as well as a safe onward
journey.
Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your ight:
Wear loose-tting clothes on board to
allow your skin to breathe, and apply a
good moisturiser throughout.
Stretch your legs as much as possible
by taking a stroll through the cabin.
Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-
clockwise. Bend and straighten your
ankles in a brisk manner with the knee
straight.
Trace the letters of the alphabet with
your foot by moving your ankles.
Exercising your feet and legs
periodically helps to reduce any
possible eects of long-duration travel.
Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same
position for too long and gently stretch
muscles to improve your circulation.
And remember to move your neck
and shoulders during long ights to
prevent stiness.
We wish you an enjoyable experience.
Reducing the eects
of jet-lag
To help reduce the eects of travelling
and jet-lag before, during and after
your ight, we have introduced
an audio programme (available on
Channel 6), which will play every other
hour, oering 60 minutes of soothing
and relaxing audio environments. The
programme is designed to enhance
your physical and mental wellbeing
during the ight.
Apart from tuning in to the inflight
relaxation programme, here are
some other simple things that you
can do to prepare for your journey.
Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol,
tea or coee the day before you
travel.
When you arrive at your
destination, try to adjust your
activities gradually to the new
time zone.
Mild exercise on arrival will also
help to stimulate your circulation.
Carry-on baggage
Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted
to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and
measurements, illustrated below.
Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to
enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your ight:
Additional small items, such as cameras, personal stereos,
overcoats and handbags are allowed on board. EU security
rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage
apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA
security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency
exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.
Maximum
weight
10kg
(22 lbs)
Maximum
weight
7kg
(15 lbs)
AER LINGUS AER LINGUS
REGIONAL
43cm
(17ins)
28cm
(11ins)
20cm
(8ins)
40cm
(16ins)
55cm
(22ins)
20cm
(8ins)
Wellbeing
Passengers with
wheelchair requirements
Our priority is to always ensure
the safety and comfort of all
passengers. We encourage
passengers who may need
assistance to contact us well in advance of
their date of travel to enable us to assess
their needs.
If you are a wheelchair user or require
wheelchair assistance when travelling on
Aer Lingus services, please advise us of
your requirements at least 48 hours in
advance, quoting your booking reference
number. Our contact details are as follows:
email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com
Telephone:
(Ireland) 0818 365 011
08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri &
09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun
(UK) 0871 718 20 21
(Europe) + 353 1 886 8333
(USA) 516 622 4222
100 | JULY 2012
Im for seeing my mates in the States. And ying from
Shannon, it couldnt be easier. With 22 ights a week
direct to Boston, New York and Toronto, and the added
convenience of US pre-clearance before you travel, its
easy to hop over to the lads.
Im for Shannon
Willie, Dairy Farmer, Boher
shannonairport.com
18776_AER_INFLIGHT_FP_W.indd 1 12/06/2012 10:24:33
BEFORE AFTER
To & From Dublin
Austria
Vienna
Belgium
Brussels
Bulgaria
Bourgas
Canary Islands
Fuerteventura
Gran Canaria
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Croatia
Dubrovnik
Czech Republic
Prague
Finland
Helsinki
France
Bordeaux
Lyon
Marseille
Nice
Paris
Perpignan
Rennes
Toulouse
Germany
Berlin
Dusseldorf
Frankfurt
Hamburg
Munich
Stuttgart
Greece
Athens
Hungary
Budapest
Ireland
Kerry
Italy
Bologna
Catania
Milan (Linate)
Milan (Malpensa)
Naples
Rome
Venice
Verona (new route)
Lithuania
Vilnius
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
Poland
Krakow
Warsaw
Portugal
Faro
Lisbon
Romania
Bucharest
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Bilbao
Ibiza
Madrid
Malaga
Palma
Santiago de
Compostela
Sweden
Stockholm (new route)
Switzerland
Geneva
Zurich
Turkey
Izmir
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Edinburgh
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Jersey
Manchester
United Kingdom
Aberdeen
Blackpool
Bournemouth
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man
Southend
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
RouteMaps
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Santiago de Compostela
Athens
Ibiza
For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com
Bologna
Venice
Verona
Paris
Geneva
Lyon
Zurich
Stuttgart Munich
Frankfurt
Dusseldorf
Brussels
Amsterdam
Hamburg
Berlin
Prague
Krakow
Warsaw
Vilnius
Vienna
Budapest
Nice
Rome
Milan
LINATE
Milan
MALPENSA
Bucharest
Madrid
Alicante
Malaga
Faro
Lisbon
Fuerteventura
Lanzarote
Gran
Canaria
Tenerife
Barcelona
Bordeaux
Perpignan
Helsinki
Naples
Catania
Bilbao
Palma
Izmir
Stockholm
Toulouse
Dubrovnik
DUBLIN
Aberdeen
Glasgow
Kerry
Edinburgh
Blackpool
Manchester
Isleof Man
Cardi
Bristol
London
HEATHROW
Birmingham
Bournemouth
London
GATWICK
Jersey
Southend
Bourgas
Rennes
Marseille
JULY 2012 | 103
To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon, Waterford & Gatwick
FROMBELFAST
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Las Palmas
Tenerife
Portugal
Faro
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Malaga
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
FROMCORK
Belgium
Brussels (newroute)
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Las Palmas
France
Nice
Paris
Rennes
Germany
Munich
Italy
Rome
Portugal
Faro
Lisbon
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Malaga
Palma
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
United Kingdom
London Gatwick
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Jersey
Manchester
FROMGATWICK
Ireland
Cork
Dublin
Ireland West Airport
(Knock)
FROMSHANNON
France
Rennes
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Manchester
FROMWATERFORD
United Kingdom
Luton
Manchester
Southend
FROM KNOCK
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Jersey
Luton
Southend
Rennes
Nice
Las Palmas
SHANNON
CORK
WATERFORD
BELFAST
Knock
Dublin
Amsterdam
Munich
Barcelona
Alicante
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Rome
Malaga
Paris
LONDON
GATWICK
London
Heathrow
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Brussels
Faro
Lisbon
Palma
104 | JULY 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
To & From Dublin, Shannon & Madrid
FROM DUBLIN
USA
Boston
Chicago
New York
Orlando
FROM SHANNON
USA
Boston
New York
(Via New York/Boston
with JetBlue)
Chicago
Orlando
FROM MADRID
USA
Washington DC
Chicago
New York
Boston
Dublin
Shannon
Madrid
USA ROUTE NETWORK
Washington
Orlando
JULY 2012 | 105
Vancouver
Edmonton
Calgary
Winnipeg
Long Beach
Salt Lake City
Burbank
San Jose
Minneapolis
CHICAGO
Kansas City
Saint Louis
Omaha
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Nashville
Atlanta
Orlando
SanJuan
Aguadilla
Ponce
WASHINGTON
DULLES
Fort Lauderdale
West PalmBeach
Fort Myers
NEWYORK
BOSTON
Toronto
Bualo
Detroit
Cleveland
Rochester
Columbus Indianapolis
Cincinnati
Lexington
Burlington
Syracuse
PortlandME
Nantucket
Seattle
PortlandOR
Denver
Sacramento
San Francisco
Oakland
Las Vegas
Los Angeles
San Diego
Phoenix
Austin
Houston
NewOrleans
Jacksonville
Tampa
Miami
Charlotte
Pittsburgh
Louisville
Richmond
Raleigh- Durham
Washington
NATIONAL
Baltimore
FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEWYORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO
New destinations with Aer
Lingus, in partnership with
JetBlue, United Airlines and
Aer Arann
Getting to the US from
destinations throughout
Europe has never been easier.
Now US, Irish and European
based customers can book
a single low fare reservation
between Ireland, Europe and
a wide range of continental US
destinations using JFK New
York, Boston and Chicago as
stopovers.
By choosing to y to the
United States via Dublin and
Shannon with Aer Lingus,
passengers can avail of United
States Customs and Immigration
Pre-clearance facilities at
Terminal 2, Dublin airport.
This facility allows passengers
travelling on the majority of
US bound ights to clear US
immigration and customs before
departing Dublin and Shannon.
Customers arrive in the US
without any further processing
requirement allowing for a
seamless transfer to their nal
destination.
NEW YORK
Connecting with JetBlue at
JFK:
When you arrive from Dublin or
Shannon, simply hop on the Air
Train to JetBlues Terminal 5 for
your domestic connection.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue domestic departure
point and then pick them up
again in Shannon or Dublin.
BOSTON
Connecting with JetBlue at
Boston Logan International
Airport:
When you arrive from Dublin
or Shannon, proceed directly
to Terminal C for your JetBlue
domestic departure.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue departure point
and then pick them up again in
Shannon or Dublin.
CHICAGO
Connecting with United
Airlines at OHare Chicago
International Airport:
On arrival at Terminal Five from
Dublin or Shannon, make your
way to the nearby ATS (Airport
Transit System), which runs
every four minutes to your UA
domestic departure point.
Passengers from the US to
Ireland and Europe can check in
bags at the UA departure point,
then exit security in Chicago
OHare to take the Airport
Transit System to Terminal
Five for the onward Aer Lingus
ight, and pick up their bags in
Shannon or Dublin.
DUBLIN
Connecting with Aer Lingus
Regional (operated by Aer
Arann) at Dublin Airport:
Aer Linguss interline agreement
with Aer Arann allows
passengers connect to Aer
Lingus transatlantic ights via
Dublin Airport, where they can
through check their luggage
directly to their nal US
destination.
All routes correct at time of going to press
CONNECTINGEUROPE, USA & CANADA
106 | JULY 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
Milan
LINATE
London
HEATHROW
London
GATWICK
Dublin
Shannon
Kerry
Lisbon
Faro
Malaga
Alicante
Barcelona
Palma
Madrid
Geneva
Krakow
Naples
Rome
Venice
Dubrovnik
Warsaw
Aberdeen
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Bristol
Southend
Dusseldorf
Amsterdam
Brussels
Paris
Manchester
Isle of Man
Birmingham
Frankfurt
Berlin
Hamburg
Stockholm
Helsinki
Munich Vienna
Cardi
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus
Alicante
Amsterdam
Barcelona
Berlin
Birmingham
Brussels
Dubrovnik
Dusseldorf
Edinburgh
Faro
Frankfurt
Geneva
Hamburg
Helsinki
Krakow
Lisbon
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Madrid
Malaga
Manchester
Munich
Palma
Paris
Rome
Stockholm
Venice
Vienna
Warsaw
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus Regional
Aberdeen
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man
London Southend
Kerry
VIA SHANNON
with Aer Lingus
London (Heathrow)
VIA SHANNON
with Aer Lingus Regional
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
VIA NEWYORK
with JetBlue
Aguadilla
Austin
Baltimore
Bualo
Burbank
Burlington
Charlotte
Chicago
Denver
Fort Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Houston
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
Nantucket
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Ponce
Portland ME
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Rochester
Sacramento
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
San Juan
Seattle
Syracuse
Tampa
West Palm Beach
VIA BOSTON
with JetBlue
Baltimore
Bualo
Chicago
Dallas Fort Worth
Denver
Ford Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
Nantucket
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Richmond
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
San Juan
Seattle
Tampa
Washington (Dulles)
Washington
(National)
West Palm Beach
VIA CHICAGO
with United to USA
Atlanta
Austin
Charlotte
Cincinnati
Chicago
Cleveland
Columbus
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Denver
Detroit
Houston
Indianapolis
Jacksonville
Kansas City
Las Vegas
Lexington
Los Angeles
Louisville
Miami
Minneapolis
Nantucket
Nashville
New Orleans
Omaha
Phoenix
Pittsburgh
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Sacramento
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
Seattle
St Louis
Tampa
VIA CHICAGO
with United to Canada
Calgary
Edmonton
Salt Lake City
Toronto
Vancouver
Winnipeg
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
JULY 2012 | 107
108 | JULY 2012
Connecting at Heathrow Airport
Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to
the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.
PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
You are an international connecting passenger and all your
luggage* is checked through to your final destination
*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected
from the back of the aircraft
PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
London is your final destination
Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport
Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow
You would like to leave the airport between flights
You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance
CONNECTINGTOANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT
FLIGHTS ARRIVINGAT TERMINAL 2
If you already have a boarding card for your
connecting ight, and your baggage has been
tagged to your nal destination, simply follow the
sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which
you will see on your left hand side as you enter
the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you
will proceed to Immigration and Security Check.
After clearing these points, check the information
screens and proceed to your boarding gate.
If your baggage has not been tagged to your
final destination you must clear Immigration,
enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your
bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed
to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.
Once you have reached the departures level,
check the information screens for your onward
flight information, and proceed as directed to
the appropriate check-in desk.
If you have any queries, or need further
assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight
Connections Desk, which is located in the
baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our
staff will be glad to help.
PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport
Aer Lingus
Flight
Connections
Desk
Immigration
Immigration
Security
Check
Escalator
to Gates
401 - 426
Lifts
to Gates
401 - 426
Terminal 2
Arrivals
To Gates 100s -
300s
Arrivals Route to
Baggage Reclaim
from Gates 400s
FLIGHT CONNECTIONS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 100s - 300s
FLIGHT CONNECTIONS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 401 - 426
FlightConnections
(Irish Rail)
in association with
Fi rst Cl ass!
Book Today - Travel Tomorrow

ONE DAY TOURS TO

NINE DAY TOURS FROM
DUBLIN
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+ 353-1-856 0045
e-mail:
info@railtoursireland.com
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Classifieds JUNE_Layout 1 18/06/2012 11:14 Page 1
Miss Dior Eau Frache
Eau de Toilette - 50ml
Enjoy the elegant chypre fragrance of Miss Dior in this new
fresh and luminous version with its blend of bergamot and
gardenia against base notes of patchouli.
Naked2 by Urban Decay
A taupe-centric palette of twelve neutral shadows (ve brand new)
in shades ranging from pale to deep, matt to sparkly. More beige
in overall tone than their rst Naked palette, this collection still
delivers subtle, neutral looks, smoky dramatic eyes and everything
in between.
Spicebombby Viktor & Rolf
Eau de Toilette - 50ml
Spicebomb is the new masculine fragrance
from Viktor & Rolf. Electrifying, captivating
and fearless. He doesnt just explode he
goes boom. Spicebomb oers a highly
addictive explosion of spices, tamed by an
invigorating freshness. This new fragrance
is the weapon of mass seduction!
hope in a jar
60ml by philosophy
A unique sou texture originally created for the
medical profession and recommended by plastic
surgeons and dermatologists. It will improve the
look of multiple skincare concerns including ne
lines, rough texture and dehydration. A drink of
water for your skin.
Aer Lingus Fun Plane
with FREE key-ring
Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and ashing
lights. It comes complete with batteries for hours of fun. Also
included is a FREE gift of a miniature plane key-ring.
110 | JULY 2012
INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING
Storm Husky Puppy
Stormis a super-soft Husky that will
always be ready for a cuddle! A
beautiful puppy that will bring
a smile to his newowner.
Scents of Ireland Luxury Candles
by Tipperary Crystal
These luxury scented candles are made in Ireland using luxury fragrances
that evoke memories of Ireland. This charming gift box contains two
wonderfully natural scented candles. The Mourne Memories candle
has a fresh, clean mountain air scent while the Sligo
Shores candle will bring back memories of the
wild Atlantic shore to your mind. Also
contains two picture postcards.
Skagen Silver Mesh
Strap Womens
Watch
Stainless steel appeal. Signature
Skagen silver mesh bands connect
to a slim stainless steel IP gold
case with gold border. The vertically
brushed chrome dial features twelve
indicators made with CRYSTALLIZED
Swarovski elements.
Shamballa Bracelet with Crystals
and Natural Stones byAeon
This high-quality Aeon unisex crystal and natural stone
beaded bracelet is part of a growing trend in jewellery that
incorporates the healing properties of natural stones into
fashion jewellery design. The crystals have always been a
renowned symbol of peace, tranquillity and happiness. The
fully adjustable 18cm to 23cm bracelet comes
presented in an Aeon organza pouch.
Pleasecheckyour
SkyShopping
brochurefor
all prices
Tempting treats and great savings
Skagen Black Leather
Strap Mens Watch
Genuine style. This mens watch with a black
leather strap connects to a brushed stainless
steel case. The shiny black dial features twelve
chrome and white luminous numbered indicators,
a 24-hour dial and date function.
Sky Shopping
Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing
quality items at reduced prices onboard during July.
JULY 2012 | 111
TRIP OF A LIFETIME
112 | JULY 2012
husbands home country. I now
live in Dublin. Twelve years ago, I
started writing my own books. My
ten novels are international, set in
Ireland, Australia, the UK, the US,
Germany and Italy. My characters
love travelling as much as I do.
Te wonder of frst learning
about a place through the pages of
a book has never left
me. Before I travel, I
always read a novel set in
my destination. It adds
another dimension to
every trip I take a kind
of travel dj vu. Whenever
I arrive somewhere, Ive
already been there
fctionally, at least.
Before going to
Edinburgh for the frst time
last year, I read Alexander
McCall Smiths 44 Scotland
Street series for a glimpse of
the citys gracious side, then
Ian Rankins Rebus crime
novels to get the grit. Frances
Mayess Under the Tuscan Sun
entertained and educated me
before my frst trip to Italy.
Graham Greenes Te Quiet
American helped prepare me
for fve startling days in Vietnam.
Writers such as John Updike, Anne
Tyler and Garrison Keillor have
enriched my American travels.
In the months before I came
to live in Ireland, I read novels by
Maeve Binchy, William Trevor,
John McGahern and Molly Keane
among many others. Tey were
like a cultural crash course, giving
me insights into Irish society, past
and present. When Im homesick
for Australia, I read Tim Winton,
Helen Garner, Kate Grenville or
Miles Franklin and feel back in the
southern hemisphere again.
Its 40 years since I was that child
on the roof of my family home in
South Australia, but some things
havent changed. I still read two or
three books a week. I still marvel at
the magic of fction and its power
to take us into other peoples lives
and worlds. And I still get excited
by snow.
Monica McInerneys Lolas Secret (Pan
Books, 7.99) is out July 17.
B
efore I ever set foot on a
plane or a ship, I was a world
traveller. Books were my
passport.
I grew up in a small country
town in South Australia, in a family
of seven children. Much of my
childhood was spent perched on the
tin roof of our family home, with a
pile of novels for company. Up there,
in the shade of the chimney, under
a big Australian sky, I sweltered in
40C heat, listening to Australian
birdcalls coming from the gum
trees nearby and Australian accents
fltering up from below.
But as I read, my imagination
transported me far away. I chased
smugglers across the moors in Devon
with the Famous Five and foated
on a raft going down the Mississippi
with Huckleberry Finn. I explored
villages and castles I had never seen
in real life. I remember reading about
snow for the frst time. Afterwards,
I went to our fridge and dug out
a handful of ice from the freezer,
wondering if this was what real snow
would feel like.
At the age of 19, I few to London
on my frst overseas trip. It was
winter time. Te frst day I was so
jetlagged I could have been on Mars.
I went to bed and woke up at 6am.
Te world was diferent. Tere was
no sound. I opened the window. It
had snowed overnight. Te streets,
the houses and the trees were covered
in a thick layer of white. I ran
downstairs in my bare feet, without
a coat. I stood there, beaming,
oblivious to the cold. Tis was it; this
was what I had read about all those
years before. Snow, real snow!
Since then, Ive visited many
diferent cities and countries. For
the past 20 years, Ive moved
between Australia and Ireland, my
Above right,
author Monica
McInerney,
brought up in
sunny Australia,
was 19 before she
rst experienced
snow on her rst
overseas trip
to London,
above left.
Mind
TRIP OF A LIFETIME
maps
Writer Monica McInerney travelled the world from an
early age through the pages of countless novels.
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