Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Northern
Craig gilroy shines bright at Ulster rUgby
Star
Meet some of the hosts behind the events Why Derry-Londonderry is City of Culture 2013 Balearic belles Mallorca and Menorca Whats new on NYCs restaurant scene
February/March 2013
complimentary copy
The GaTherinG
DerrY niCe
www.aib.ie/fdi
As one of the most attractive countries for global Foreign Direct Investment, Ireland is home to many of the best-known and most successful companies from around the world. And at AIB, we provide corporate banking services to more of these global companies than any other bank in Ireland. Talk to us about how we can help you locate and grow your companys presence in Ireland.
Contact Details: Diarmuid ONeill, Head of AIB Corporate Banking Ireland Tel: +353 1 641 4808 Email: diarmuid.e.oneill@aib.ie Web: www.aib.ie/fdi
Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c., trading as AIB Corporate Banking Ireland, is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Office: Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173
Contents February/March
News
07 NEWS DIARY Our pick of things to see and do in February and March 08 ARRIVALS High fliers home for the holidays at Dublins T2 10 NEWS HOTELS Urban oases and a luxe beach retreat 12 NEWS RESTAURANTS Eoin Higgins reports, from fine dining to jolly good 14 NEWS SHOppINg Gadgets to Go Sive OBrien high-fives new music accessories 16 NEWS BUSINESS Smart Traveller KBC Bank Irelands John Reynolds recommends Brussels hotspots 18 NEWS BEAUTY ON THE gO Ellie Balfe spotlights complexion perfectors 20 NEWS pEOpLE Whats In My Suitcase Facebooks director of staffing Orna Holland opens up 22 NEWS pEOpLE On My Travels documentary filmmaker Alex Gibneys greatest adventures 24 NEWS BOOKS Shelf Life Bridget Hourican lives vicariously through the latest releases 26 NEWS EVENTS Irelands Call Ireland holds the presidency of the European Union for the first half of 2013. Ben Webb finds out whats in store 28 NEWS DIARY Turning Green St Patricks Day celebrations around the country
36
regulars
84 48 HOUrs in FarO ... Theres plenty for the weekender to explore, says Bruno Filipe Pires 86 an insiDErs gUiDE TO cOrFU Local Lia Manesi reveals the Greek islands gems 91 aEr lingUs inFligHT Your holiday starts here relax with movies, music and flight information 112 TriP OF a liFETimE Corks Cape Clear had a profound effect on Cloud Atlas author David Mitchell
60
Balearic beauties
Features
30 THE wingman Rising star Craig Gilroy tells David Robbins about life at Ulster Rugby 36 gaTHEring THE clans The Gathering is Irelands year-long reunion. Ben Webb talks to its party hosts 48 nOrTHErn EXPOsUrE Bridget Hourican spotlights DerryLondonderry, this years City of Culture
72
60 sUnnY siDE UP Roger Norum island hops between Mallorca and Menorca 72 nEw YOrk EaTs Big apples are so last season. Lizzie Gore-Grimes feasts on the hippest eats as NYC Restaurant Week plates up
BRISTOL
BOSTON
WASHINGTON
Welcome to
Hotels
www.doylecollection.com
DUBLIN
CORK
LONDON
eDitorial editor Frances Power acting Deputy editor Lucy White editorial assistant Mabh McDonnell Contributors Sive OBrien, Amanda Cochrane, Ellie Balfe group editorial Director Laura George art art Director Clare Meredith aDVertising account Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie advertising Manager Nolle OReilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie aDMinistration acting head of Pr & Promotions Jane OBrien, +353 (0)1 271 9643, jane.obrien@image.ie office Manager Tina Koumarianos accounts Olga Gordeychuk accounts assistant Lisa Dickenson boarD oF DireCtors Managing Director & Publisher Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Robert Power Directors Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Laura George Printing Boylan Print Group origination Typeform
Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.
At the Irish Magazine Awards in December, Cara was awarded Customer Magazine of the Year 2012 (left, editor Frances Power accepts the award). Naturally, were delighted that the changes weve made since we took over the publication in summer 2011 were recognised. Weve loved working with talented photographers (such as Trevor Hart, Matthew Thompson and Richard Gilligan) and writers such as Joseph OConnor, Emma Donoghue and John Butler. Weve aimed to put Irish people and Irish stories at the heart of the magazine, as well ll as providing lots of travel info and tips to help readers find the best of whichever Aer Lingus destination they are visiting. Heres to another good year of flying and reading in 2013!
Contributors
steVe ryan spent his childhood years in Kilkenny dreaming of becoming a pilot: a series of failed eye examinations and altercations with opticians forced him to change track, and he become a photographer instead. He has shot reportage and profile features from Nepal, Thailand, Israel, Palestine, Kosovo and most European countries for a range of editorial clients, including The Financial Times, The Sunday Business Post and Vice Magazine. He lives in London but is considering a move to the Big Apple after sampling the food laid on by the restaurants reviewed in this edition of Cara, see page 72.
DaViD MitChell is the author of five novels, two of which, Number9Dream (2001) and Cloud Atlas (2004), were shortlisted for the Booker Prize. The latter is now a blockbuster film starring Tom Hanks, Halle Berry, Susan Sarandon and Hugh Grant and one of the most expensive independent movies of all time. Born in the UK, nomadic Mitchell has lived in Italy and Japan before settling in Cork, with his Japanese wife Keiko and their two children. A visit to Cape Clear in 1997 set the wheels in motion for a move there in 2003, proving that you dont always have to travel halfway around the world or climb a volcano to have a transformative experience. Read about how the sci-fi writer fell in love with the very down-to-Earth West Cork on page 112.
Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie
PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 to aDVertise PLEASE CALL NOLLE OREILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE
Northern
Craig gilroy shines bright at Ulster rUgby
Star
Meet some of the hosts behind the events Why Derry-Londonderry is City of Culture 2013 Balearic belles Mallorca and Menorca Whats new on NYCs restaurant scene
February/March 2013
complimentary copy
The GaTherinG
on the CoVer
DerrY niCe
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie
n n n
February/March
Jameson Dublin international Film Festival Calling all cinophiles The Jameson Dublin International Film Festival (JDIFF) has come to town. Along with a huge selection of the best in global cinema, this year the JDIFF will host internationally acclaimed actor, director and producer Danny DeVito for a special tribute. Other highlights include Oscar-winning composer Dario Marianelli (Atonement, Pride and Prejudice and Anna Karenina), who presents a performance of his compositions in the National Concert Hall. Runs February 14-24; jdiff.com.
news Diary
14
Carnival of Venice Dust off your powdered wigs, finest crinolines and wittiest Shakespearean quips the Venetian carnival returns in a blaze of bouffants and excessive amounts of rouge. From flamboyant masked balls to sumptuous gala dinners, 18th century dance workshops to best dressed competitions, the citys stradas and canals will be alive with the sounds of Mozart, Verdi and swishing skirts. Until February 12; carnevale.venezia.it.
aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN tO VeniCe tUE, tHU AND SAt.
st Valentines shrine, Dublin Taking a loved one to the site of a dead mans remains on February 14 might not sound like the worlds most romantic gesture. But when said remains belong to none other than St Valentine, its a different story. Every year couples make a pilgrimage to Dublins Whitefriar Street Church where a shrine commemorates the patron saint of love, whose relics were bequeathed to Irish Carmelite John Spratt by Pope Gregory XVI in 1836. For one day only the reliquary is moved to the high altar for special masses, including a short Blessing of the Rings ceremony; carmelites.ie/ireland/whitefriarst.
14
16
aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN, cORk AND SHANNON tO LOnDOn HeatHrOw DAILy.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 7
easter Festival, Prague Cultural traditions dont get much more eyebrow-raising than Pragues Easter antics: males whack females with wooden whips and douse them with ice-cold water, and women reward their efforts with hand-painted eggs. These are among the more bizarre sideshows of Pragues annual celebration of spring, fertility and youth, the Old Town and Wenceslas Squares packed with handicraft and food markets. Runs March 16-April 7.
15
alices adventures in wonderland, royal Opera House, London Dont be late for this very important date! The Royal Ballet breathes new life into Lewis Carrolls surreal adventure, taking audiences on a journey of astounding choreography brilliant with colour and larger-than-life characters. So grab your maddest hat and enjoy. Runs March 15-April 13; roh.org.uk.
Cara magazine was at Dublin Airports T2 recently to meet some of the Aer Lingus passengers coming home for the holidays. Photographs by Anthony Woods.
The Samir GirlS, from left, Sophia, mum Gillian and elena flew from their home in cairo to spend a holiday in Gillians native Ireland. The girls were looking forward to exploring around dublin.
Arrivals
Parents-to- be JaSon, and melanie byrne, are home from their unofficial baby-moon in Germany. With twins on the way they took a last opportunity to visit melanies parents.
John browne, and GreTa ScoTlanD, were fresh off the plane from their holiday in houston, Texas, where they attended a nephews graduation from college.
colm and KaThleen Daffy, left, met KaTie Daffy and philip iSarD, right, as they arrived from Toronto. The couple were off to Kildare for a few weeks.
be best friends paTricia ThabeTh, left, and orla purcell , right, have just returned from the ultimate girls ultima weekend a shopping trip in manhattan.
miriam Kaye, left, was back in Ireland for the first time in over a year, there to greet her were her siblings ray, centre and rla, right.
london-based harry haSTinGS flew into dublin for a few days to see his girlfriend and was looking forward to staying with her family in donnybrook.
lauren oreilly had a long flight home from Perth, so was delighted to see Johnny GallaGher, and the rest of her family in T2. They got up at the crack of dawn and drove all the way from bundoran to dublin just to meet her.
8|
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Theres a certain class of driver who doesnt think residual value is important.
61% 60% 55% 52% 50% 45% 40% 52% 47% 47% 47% 43%
K OD A
Fo rd Su pe rb
M on de o
Op el In si
Pe ug eo t4 gn 07 ia
M az da
Ci tr oe n
C5
Re na ul tL ag un a
Motorcheck.ie is Irelands leading car history website specialising in data and intelligence for both consumer and trade users. Residual value research was conducted on bestselling diesel models sold in the Republic of Ireland in 2009. Average advertised prices as from July 2012 were used to calculate the level of value retention. Manufacturers ex-works list prices were used for calculation purposes. Total sample size was 12,530 vehicles. Where exact variant matches were not available, the closest match was used. Statistical smoothing techniques are practiced by Motorcheck.ie to remove discrepancies in each sample. Some vehicles were omitted from the analysis as the sample size could not make accurate conclusions. Bestselling models used in this research include: KODA Superb GreenLine 1.9TDI, Ford Mondeo 1.8 TDCI LX, Opel Insignia 2.0 CDTi Ecoflex SC, Peugeot 407 1.6 HDI Ultra, Mazda 6 2.0 TDi Executive SE, Citroen C5 1.6 HDI Dynamique, Renault Laguna 1.5DCI Privilege.
news hotels
Music lover? Minimalist? Indulge your passions at new hotels in Brooklyn and Paris
Minimalist fans will be stroking their Helmut Lang sleeves with joy at the Hotel de nell. Located in Pariss 9th arrondissement, the 19th-century propertys stark white faade sets the tone for an elegant interior of 33 rooms and suites boasting natural wood panelling, underfloor heating, fireplaces and pure white marble, Japanese-style bathrooms. the brainchild of architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, it strikes that precarious balance between super sleek and super comfortable, while Frances leading chef Bruno doucet showcases the equally smartcasual concept of bistronomie in his La Rgalade restaurant. Rooms start at 225. 7-9 Rue du Conservatoire, +33 153 249 898; hoteldenell.com
aer lingus FLIES FROM duBLIn tO Paris dAILY.
Escape
hotel De nell, Paris
Whether youre a golfer in search of some play, or a sun seeker looking for lounge time, the Algarve has plenty to delay you. Check out this old charmer the Hotel Bela Vista was one of the first hotels to open in the area and still commands prime beach frontage but these days, freshly reopened after an extensive refurb, with a twostorey extension, luxurious new LOccitane spa and palm-fringed pool with day beds, its every inch the 21st century boutique hotel. Innovative Portuguese cuisine from Chef Rogrio Calhau delivers the freshest seafood in piquant ways. Rooms from 230. Praia da Rocha, Portimo, +351 282 460 280; hotelbelavistaalgarve.com
aer lingus FLIES FROM duBLIn tO Faro On tuE, tHuR, And SAt.
Berliners are famous for nicknaming their most cherished landmarks, and the Waldorf Astoria has its own unofficial title, the Zoofenster, or Zoo Window. Located in the heart of Berlins City West, the newly opened hotel has panoramic views, including the Berlin Zoological Garden and the lipstick and powderbox aka the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. Contemporary in feel, but with some strong Art deco features, it has 232 rooms, suites and apartments, each with Wi-Fi, plus an indoor pool and a Guerlain Spa. French fusion food classic French cooking with a fresh modern outlook is served in the restaurant, Les Solistes by Pierre Gagnaire. Rooms from 210. Hardenbergstrasse 28, +49 30 8140 000; waldorfastoria.com
aer lingus FLIES FROM FROM duBLIn tO Berlin dAILY.
Calling all amateur photographers! Professional snapper Garvan not only coruns this charming B&B which, as the name suggests, has just two (double) guest rooms but also hosts digital SLR photography workshops for patrons. His creative eye is partly responsible for the 1834 propertys elegant interior; an oasis from Summerhills gritty realism. the emphasis here is on entertaining, and the art of conversation there are no tVs in rooms, only vintage Roberts Radios, and the family bathroom is shared. However, there is free Wi-Fi, 100 per cent Egyptian cotton bedding, an open fire and private patio in the garden room, and hearty breakfasts cooked to order. Rooms 90 (min two-night stay). 18 Summer Street north, 087 415 8304/086 822 5572; tworoomsindublin.com
tworooMsinDuBlin, DuBlin
art museum in the US to CUBIST DREAMS A century ago, the Art Institute of Chicago became the first than 250 of his paintings, present Picassos work. From February 20 until May 12 2013, it presents more du for more information. sculptures, prints and drawings acquired over the hundred years since; artic.e
10 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
From poshed-up classics in NYC to the best of fine dining in Mayo, Eoin Higgins highlights culinary hot-spots.
HatCH & sOns, DuBLIn
Food File
news restaurants
Simple, Irish food, served in a contemporary way. Thats the ethos behind this charming little caf/restaurant in the basement of a magnificent Georgian building on St Stephens Green, in the heart of Dublin. Think the best of Irish: floury blaas (soft white bread rolls, unique to the Waterford region), a robust beef and Guinness stew, the cream of Irish cheeses, freshly sourced, and simply prepared fish and meat, and youll have some idea of what to expect. Lovely breakfast options too. The caf resides in the same building as the quirky Little Museum of Dublin, so a bite and some historical social oddities of Dublin is a morning, or afternoon, well spent, without having to raise a brolly to the sky. Dublin as it should be. 15 St Stephens Green, Dublin 2, 01 661 0075. Sister to restaurant-of the-minute Torissi, which is conveniently located next-door, Parm is the tearaway teenage, gum-chewing, spaghetti-slinging foil to her older sisters uptown sophistication. Continuing the 2012 theme of poshed-up low-rent classics, Parm delivers Italian/American staples just like Mamma (if she went to culinary school) used to make. Think meatball heroes, garlic bread, chicken parmigiana, and so forth, executed with love and accomplished gastro know-how. For those who dont fancy the two-month wait for a tasting table at Torissi, Parm is just the kind of New York City cheap date youve been craving. 248 Mulberry Street, +1 212 993 7189; parmnyc.com
aer LIngus FLIeS FrOM DuBLIN TO new YOrK DAILY.
Out in the wilds of the west, Mayos knockranny House Hotel is a calming retreat and home to crackling turf fires, polite, old-school service and stunning views of pilgrimage hotspot Croagh Patrick. An enticing destination, which won AA Hotel of the Year 2012/13, and then theres the restaurant: a French number that uses the best of the localitys produce, from game to organically farmed fruit and veg and whatever its much-loved chef Seamus Commons can forage from the hinterland. La Fougre proudly maintains two AA rosettes testament to its firm standing for fine dining in the west. Westport, Co Mayo, 098 28600; knockrannyhousehotel.ie
La FOugre, MaYO
A hot-headed young Turk in the kitchen; attractive, friendly staff out front; and a marvellously creative cocktail list are ingredients enough for a fun evening out in Amsterdam. And thats precisely what we have here with the citys hippest, new opening. Inside, the cosy interior combines a smart selection of vintage barware and modern touches with glowing chandeliers. On the menu, small plates of excellently eccentric things abound make sure to try the Brussels sprouts dusted in bacon powder. Having equal billing, the cocktail list also sports no small amount of cutting-edge creativity. A perfect evening of short orders and long drinks. Lijnbaanssteeg 5-7, Amsterdam,+31 655 356 467; talesandspirits.com
m & Arts (Galway) host their second Western smorgasbord ... February 5 sees the GMIT College of Touris experiences and many of annual Foodie Forum, an interactive event featuring workshops, great dining er ... definitely worth a nibble; gmit.ie the biggest stars of Irish cooking, such as the Cliff Houses Martijn Kajuit
12 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
news shoPPing
gadgets
TO gO
electricity-free Speaker ibamboo.com, 22
Keep your groove on while youre on the move, with the latest music accessories. By Sive OBrien.
14 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Think Foreign Direct Investment in Ireland and theres one name you need to know - Danske Bank. Our team of advisors are on hand to provide local insight with international experience. For more information, contact Stephen Mullin on +353 (0)1 484 2841 or stephen.mullin@danskebank.ie www.danskebank.ie
LC6003 Danske Bank A/S (trading as Danske Bank) is authorised by The Danish FSA in Denmark and is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland for conduct of business rules.
Smart traveller
As chief executive of KBC Bank Ireland and president of the Irish Banking Federation, John Reynolds spends a lot of time in Brussels. He tells us his favourite places to do business.
Brussels is my favourite city for business because I enjoy its Eurocrat-honed amenities, exceptional restaurants at every price level, and bars that even to Irish eyes are entertainingly hospitable. Best hotel Best of all and accordingly expensive is the Hotel amigo (Rue de lAmigo 1-3, +32 2 547 4747; hotelamigo.com) located just off the Grand Place. Somewhat more affordable is the radisson Blu royal Hotel (Rue du Foss aux Loups 47, +32 2 219 2828; radissonblu. com/royalhotel-brussels) and le Mridien (Carrefour de LEurope 3, +32 2 548 4211, lemeridienbruxelles.fr), both conveniently located. Meanwhile, the recently refurbished Crowne Plaza (Rue Gineste 3, +32 2 203 6200; crowneplaza brussels. be) is within walking distance of the Grand Place. Business lunch In Brussels, cooking of distinction is a given. Ogenblik (Galerie des Princes 1, +32 2 511 6151; ogenblik.be) is a classic business lunch venue with wonderful food and a characterful ul interior. Also popular is la roue dOr (Rue des Chapeliers 26, +32 2 514 2554; 54; resto.be/rouedor), an oldschool bistro with fantastic seasonal fare. Finally, as wow as pleasingly low-key Brussels gets, Belga Queen (Rue du Foss aux Loups 32, +32 2 217 2187; belgaqueen.be), combines razzmatazz with Belgian authenticity, ie, great food. Best place for business drinks ralphs Bar (Place du Luxembourg 13, +32 2 230 1613; ralphsbar.be) and the surrounding area represent a lively and international spot. More touristy is au Daringman (Rue de Flandre 37, +32 2 512 4323), and the earthier late-night jazz bar, larchiduc (Antoine Dansaert 6, +32 2 512 0652; archiduc. net) doorbell entry!
Best spots for networking in Brussels and lunching in Lisbon? Lisa Hughes reports.
2
Doing business in Brussels for the first time The queue for taxis from the airport into town is often long so take the rail service, which is frequent, fast and cheap. Brussels must-do The Grand Place, Musee Horta and two exceptional chocolatiers in a city renowned for its chocolate: wittamer (Place du Grand Sablon 6, +32 2 512 3742; wittamer.com), a brilliant classic, which has been in business since 1910, and Pierre Marcolini (Rue des Minimes 1, +32 2 514 1206; marcolini.be), a mere 13 years old but stretching the boundaries of chocolate with innovative cocoa creations.
4 5
MUST-HavE TravEL gadgET lOGITeCH TOuCH MOuse T620 The perfect compromise for users who still want a traditional mouse but also want the functionality of a touch pad. With its ultra-sleek design, the Logitech Touch Mouse T620 is built with navigating Windows 8 in mind, and available at logitech.com, Harvey Norman and Peats from 69.99.
16 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Museu da Cerveja
Stanley Watson
The success of any law firm can be measured by the quality of its people and its clients. We have the best of both. Stanley Watson, Head of our London Office, leads a team of corporate, banking and financial services lawyers, which focuses on advising international companies, financial institutions and private equity houses doing business in and through Ireland.
Matheson. The law firm of choice for international companies and financial institutions doing business in and through Ireland.
Contact Stanley at stanley.watson@matheson.com or your usual contact at Matheson.
Dublin
London
New York
Palo Alto
www.matheson.com
nEWS BEAUTY
Beauty on THE go
1
A new foundation is hitting the counters in February ry and its a very ry noteworthy one in indeed. Lancme ha has merged i its iconic Visionnaire serum Visionnair m with a light lightweight foundation to foundatio create Te Teint Visionnaire, 45. Visionnair 5. The finis finish on the skin is su sublime and the skincar skincare benefits efits undeniable. As an added bonus bonus, there is also a great concealer er cleverly hidden in the lid. MAC F Face & Body, 36.50, has cult product status and for good reason. It is loved by make-up artists for its sheer, ultra-natural finish that can be applied layer by layer to achieve the coverage you desire without caking or looking over-done. As with other MAC products, the shade range is extensive and excellently on point. There truly is a tone for all here. Late last year Giorgio Armani launched Maestro, 45, and introduced a new make-up category to the market: fusion make-up a weightlessly light face base that is reminscent of a BB cream but with
Its the most important element of your make-up but the right face base can be hard to choose. Ellie Balfe selects some top complexion perfectors.
Finding a good primer that keeps your foundation in place found without changing witho the consistancy or coverage can be cove a case ca of trial and error, and with err so many on the market its hard to know which to choose. Irish ch make-up artist mak Ken Boylan Ke tried many but trie never found ne one he was on entirely happ happy with, so he created his own Make up/Play Primer, 25. It has a terrific texture and just enough silicone to create a flawless base for foundation. The one thing that people tend to (wrongly) leave out of their make-up regime is powder. Perhaps they have tried the old-fashioned, talc-based versions and been repelled by the dry finish that settled into every line, but there is no need to fear that any longer. The HD Powder by Make Up For Ever, 33.50, is a featherlight, perfecting powder that is invisible when dusted over the face, yet sets and maintains your base for hours. Its a revelation.
MY BEAUTY MUSTS Make-up artist Ken Boylan shares his top p tips for looking great on the move ...
What products ts do you recommend for women when travelling? MAC Face & Body is great if youre going to be in a hot climate. e. You dont want something mething that will mask a tan and this wont as the coverage is sheer. You can see freckles through it, which I love dont hide your freckles! NARS Multiples are clever sticks of colour which can be used as eyeshadow, blush and bronzer. You can even add a dab to lips; its the ultimate multi-tasker. The original Lancme Hypnose mascara is one of the best for going the distance, its inky black and doesnt crumble in either hot or cold extremes. What are your beauty tips for long plane journeys? Dont wear any make-up, or at least take it off once you take off. Use a thermal spring water to ensure skin stays at ultimate hydration levels; the Avne thermal water spray is amazing and comes in 50ml bottles that you can take in hand luggage. On board, you have plenty of time to tinker with your skin and I love the REN starter packs that hold mini-versions of its best-selling products. Apply a mask and relax who really cares what you look like on a flight? Before you land, try to apply a very low-key, make-up look it will make you feel better. A touch of cream blusher and a tinted lip balm and youre set. Dont over do it you just want to look healthy, not in full make-up! What is your top tip of all time? Get your foundation right. Go back to basics and get that sorted, the rest will follow. If you need it, book a makeup lesson and try a few. Your skin changes throughout life and so should your foundation; staying loyal to one particular product is pointless.
more coverage and a lot more panache. The formula is remarkable; it feels as though there is nothing on skin but there is a definite and near-perfect level of coverage that all ages and all skin types will appreciate. The most exciting foundation launch in recent years from YSL is Teint Touche clat, 38. Fans of the famous Touche clat were signing waiting lists to try out the foundation version and they were not disappointed. The brand has managed to emulate the radiant finish and the texture is silky smooth, creating a perfectly illuminating, medium-weight foundation that is sure to make the beauty hall of fame.
The Advanced Night A new product is causing quite a stir in beauty circles. tent potion made up of Repair Eye Serum by Este Lauder, 56, is a super-po ct your peepers. intense hydrators and anti-oxidants primed to perfe
18 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
IT thought leaders and over 1 billion end users prot from clouds built on a NetApp storage foundation. To make sure your storage architecture is designed to deliver all the rewards the cloud has to offer, visit NetApp.com/BuiltOn.
As a NetApp Star Partner, were committed to helping you architect a solution to accelerate your transition to the cloud. Please contact Appliance Technology on + 353 1 2958992 or email Info@apptech.ie.
2012 NetApp. All rights reserved. Specications are subject to change without notice. NetApp, the NetApp logo, and Go further, faster are trademarks or registered trademarks of NetApp, Inc. in the United States and/or other countries. All other brands or products are trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective holders and should be treated as such.
Whats in my suitcase
news people
She flits between her Dunmore East and Dublin digs, travels to far-flung places as director of staffing at Facebook for Europe, The Middle East and Africa and knows a thing or two about packing smart. Orna Holland gives Sive OBrien the low-down on how she keeps her cool on home ground and abroad.
wool and silk dress Victoria Beckham, 1,620 at net-a-porter.com cashmere pashmina 145 at lucynagle.com room by Emma Donoghue, 12.99 at Easons, OConnell Street, Dublin 1
tonic Body treatment oil Clarins, 44.73 for 100ml at Debenhams, Henry Street, Dublin 1
tom Ford neroli portoFino perFume 220 for 100ml at Brown Thomas
20 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
NEwS PEOPLE
Documentary maker, film producer and director Alex Gibney shares his globe-trotting tales with Sive OBrien.
Oscar, Emmy and Grammy award-winning Alex Gibney is a New Yorker with many hats. One of the most admired visionaries of the screen world, his documentary work always controversial sometimes shocking charts the abuse of power through unflinching investigative journeys through the depths of society. Its all in a days work for this storyteller. His career includes highlights like the highest-grossing documentary of all time, Enron: The Smartest Guys in the Room and Oscar-winning Taxi to the Dark Side. More recently his work has taken him to Ireland to delve into Catholic church scandals and cover-ups, culminating in Mea Maxima Culpa: Silence in the House of God, an Irish co-production. Mea Maxima Culpa: Silence in the House of God is released in cinemas and on volta.ie from February 22, meamaximaculpa.ie.
MY PEOPLE CAME FROM County Sligo and county Westmeath. The Gibneys and Carrolls. I ran into quite a few Gibneys when I was in Belfast too pure coincidence. THE MOST INTERESTING PLACE I HAVE TRAVELLED TO was Belfast. After years of hearing about the Troubles, it was interesting to go there and hear all the stories lingering just below the peaceful surface. MY INVESTIGATIVE MIND is not necessarily innate, as such, but between my father a journalist, my mother a writer, and my stepfather a Presbyterian minister and crusader for civil rights, I certainly was schooled to question authority growing up. THE BEST STORY IS one in which you stop in the middle and the audience asks, and then?
On my Travels
IM AT MY HAPPIEST wHEN I AM with my family in a faraway place or hitting a topspin backhand in tennis, for a winner. THE FuNNIEST THING THAT HAPPENED TO ME wHILE TRAVELLING was when I married a couple on a ship from Yokohama in Japan to Nahodka in Russia. MY uLTIMATE ESCAPE IS on an island off the coast of Maine. THE MOST FASCINATING CuLTuRE IS the most diverse. Theres nothing worse, in my mind, than preserving culture, as if it were the lactobacillus culture in sourdough bread. The most interesting places are where many cultures collide. THE BEST THING ABOuT TRAVEL IS getting there. Its like pressing re-boot on the computer. IM DRAwN TO the Galapagos Islands. Whenever I think about them I am reminded of John Huston in Chinatown talking about tide pools, saying its where life begins. IF I COuLD GO ANYwHERE IN THE wORLD it would have to be Tierra del Fuego, its an archipelago off the southernmost tip of South America. I dont know why. Something about the wind, the ocean and the end of the Americas. MY ONE PIECE OF ADVICE FOR THE GLOBAL TRAVELLER IS dont be afraid to ask stupid questions. They almost always get the best answers.
1
22 |
NENAGH SILENT FILM FESTIVAL makes its debut. On Valentines night a gala screening of the distinctly unromantic vampire movie Nosferatu takes place, with live musical accompaniment from 3epkano, while other highlights at the Tipperary event include the premiere of actor Bryan Murrays new short Dinner For One, and a masked ball. Runs February 14-17. nenaghsilentfilmfestival.com
SuNDANCE LONDON presents 14 European premieres selected from Januarys Utah event. Under the auspices of festival president Robert Redford, each film screening will be attended by its director, while panel discussions, live music and guest speakers will have cinema fans all starryeyed in the colossal O2 arena. Runs April 5-28, with its indie counterpart September 25-26. sundance-london.com
TRIBECA FILM FESTIVAL celebrates its twelfth outing this year, an estimated three million cinophiles are set to attend. The programme has yet to be announced at the time of writing, however, therell be heaps of international premieres, art exhibitions and concerts so a perfect excuse to go celeb spotting in downtown Manhattan this spring. Runs April 17-28. tribecafilm.com
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Blarney Woollen Mills, Blarney, Co. Cork, Ireland Blarney Woollen Mills,Bunratty, Co. Clare, Ireland Blarney Woollen Mills, Dove Hill, Carrick on Suir, Co. Tipperary, Ireland
shop online at www.blarney.com
news books
Lives well lived: Bridget Hourican picks out works of literary, artistic and historic reflections.
Ha Hanging Man, the Arrest of th Ai Weiwei, by Jonathan Reggio Jo (Faber and Faber, (F 14.99), out 1 on March 21. In October 2010, 2010 Ai Weiweis Sunflower Seeds appeared in the Turbine Hall in the Tate Modern. The work consists of a hundred million porcelain seeds, each individually hand-painted in the town of Jingdezhen by 1,600 Chinese artisans. In April 2011, this most famous living Chinese artist and activist was arrested at Beijing airport and held for almost three months on charges of tax evasion. After his release, Jonathan Reggio managed to interview him about his imprisonment and intentions. Hanging Man is an exploration of Weiweis life, art, activism and his campaign for democracy and accountability in China.
NON-FICTION
Shelf Life
In Diamond Tr Trespassers: A Square by Merc Sq Memoir, by Julia Me Rodoreda (Virago, Ro OFaolain (Faber O 14.99), out on 1 and Faber, 14.99), an March 7. Its Ma out on March 7. ou Barcelona in the Ba At 80, grande early 1930s and ea dame of Irish da Natalia, a pretty shop-girl from the literature Julia O OFaolain has a working-class quarter of Gracia, is story to tell: her father was the hesitant when a stranger asks her to writer, former IRA man, and HOT dance at the fiesta in Diamond dissident Sen Faolin; her STuFF Square. But they marry and mother was the writer Eileen Science, humour and have two children. When Joe Gould. Herself a noted lemurs is the theme of k13, or starts breeding pigeons, the novelist and short story kosmopolis 2013, Barcelonas birds delight his son and writer, Julia lived in Rome biennial literature festival. Expect daughter and infuriate and Paris before settling talks, workshops, reading clubs, art his wife. Then the Spanish in Los Angeles. Frank exhibitions, a literary caf, and Civil War erupts. Natalia OConnor, Hubert Butler, an experimental TV channel; remains in Barcelona while Patrick Kavanagh, Harold March 14-16; cccb.org/ Joe goes to fight the fascists. Acton and Violet Trefusis had kosmopolis One by one his birds fly away. walk-on parts in her life. This First published in 1962, this classic is the story of the 20th-centurys called by Garcia Marquez the literary and artistic world, and most beautiful novel published of Ireland and its eccentrics, told in Spain since the Civil War by an insider who always felt like is reissued in a new translation. a trespasser.
NON-FICTION
FICTION
1 sold out Dublins 2012, Fishambles Tiny Plays for Ireland rch Ma in s: sion mis sub 0 1,70 rs, acto 5 IN BRIEF 50 short plays, eve Binchy, Colum returns with the last 25, with plays by Ma le amb Fish Now s. play 25 t firs the Project Arts Centre with 7-30; projectartscentre.ie pshot of contemporary Ireland; March sna A lic. pub the of ers mb me and n McCann, Pauline McLyn
24 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
COLLEG
E GREE
Dubarry Flagship Store 35 College Green, Dublin 2 Ireland For details of stockists visit
Scan to upload store location to Google maps
TO DAME STREET
SUFF
OLk
STRE
ET
TO GRAFTON STREET
news dIary
Irelands Call
Ireland holds the presidency of the Council of the EU for the first six months of 2013. So whats in store? Ben Webb reports.
his year, as Ireland takes Enterprise Ireland, Tourism Ireland over the presidency of the and Bord Bia are all swinging into European Union, it celebrates action. And with the presidency its 40th anniversary as an also coinciding with The Gathering EU member. As 2013 has also been Irelands open house invitation to designated European Year of the the world it promises to be a very Citizen, it is a perfect time to take busy year indeed. stock of the marriage. In the short term, the presidency There is no doubt Irelands is also an opportunity for postrelationship with Europe has been Celtic Tiger Ireland to show Europe financially beneficial. In the first that it has emerged from the three decades of EU membership economic doldrums and is looking Ireland got more than 17 billion optimistically to the future. The in Structural and Cohesion funds, financial services and property while Irish farmers received sectors may have fallen away, but 44 billion under the Common Irelands tourism and agriculture Agricultural Policy between 1973 industries traditional strengths and 2008. are fighting back. But its not just about money. We want to show everyone we Ireland has become a strong, are over the trauma of the last few influential diplomatic voice that is years and that Ireland is open for reflected in EU policymaking. Some business, says Creighton. The sky critics have suggested leaving the has not fallen in. We are standing euro in the wake of the recession, but on our own two feet. Ireland is the Irish are now proud Europeans. now better value than ever for Divorce is not on the cards. tourists and for investors. But its I am planning a series of public not just about business; its about debates across Ireland about what showing our culture, too. After we have achieved as a member state a recent meeting in Dublin with of the European Union over the representatives from more than 50 past four decades, says Irelands countries we went for a night out Minister for European Affairs, on Baggot Street. They were blown Lucinda Creighton. And, more away by the welcome. importantly, about the sort of union Politically, the presidency is all we want our children to grow up in. about boosting economies and The presidency includes an creating jobs. Ireland has two impressive programme of events that main objectives to ensure the will attract an estimated 30,000 single market is geared up for the visitors politicians, business digital marketplace, and to help EU leaders and tourists to Ireland. exporters. The EU-US Free Trade
Agreement, for example, has been on the to-do list for years, and to get the ball rolling would be a massive achievement for Ireland. The opportunity to sell our artisan foods and other agri-food products on the East coast would be a huge boost to the industry, says Creighton. In 2004, when Ireland last held the presidency, the Celtic Tiger was prowling and the army of opinion formers and politicians criss-crossed the land in helicopters and stayed at Dromoland Castle and swish private estates. This year it promises to be a far more down-to-earth event. This year its not about pomp but the deliverables, Creighton says. We want to keep the EU machinery moving forward.
3 Key eU events
January to June Historic Dublin Castle is to be the EU presidency HQ for the majority of events and ministerial meetings more than 15,000 delegates and media are expected from the EUs 27 member states and beyond. The venue has been awarded the same sustainable and environmental certifications as the London Olympic Games.
Hunger, nutrItIon and ClImate JustICe april 15-16 The link between climate change and hunger is the theme of this major international conference in Dublin, building on Irelands leadership in the area of nutrition and Mary Robinsons Climate Justice Foundation. High on the agenda will be the impact of climate change on human rights.
dIgItal agenda assembly June 19-20 The Digital Agenda Assembly the largest presidency event will be held outside Brussels for the first time. This annual meeting of government, commercial sector and stakeholders aims to reboot Europes economy by making the most out of digital technologies. The agenda covers intellectual property rights, cyber security and data protection.
26 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
DUBLIN INSPIRES:
GREAT I NNovAT IoN
Not many 16 year olds could arrive alone in a strange city, brashly introduce themselves as a Broadway star to one of its most renowned theatres and be hired on the spot. But living in Dublin brought out the best in Orson Welles, who was soon being hailed as one of the worlds most original actors and film directors. Dublin continues to embrace innovation and forwardthinking in the shape of The Convention Centre Dublin. Since opening in 2010, The CCD has hosted over 650 events, welcoming an impressive range of prestigious international clients and business leaders to Dublin and Ireland. The CCD has already established a reputation for excellence, and like Welles, weve also received critical praise in the form of 21 industry awards, including recent recognition as one of the top four convention centres in the world, as a runner up for Worlds Best Convention Centre at the 2012 AIPC Apex Awards. So, if you want to inspire great innovation, visit www.theccd.ie and see how somewhere different will make a very positive difference for your next event.
Contact our Sales Team on: T: +353 1 856 0000 E: sales@theccd.ie W: www.theccd.ie
NEwS DIARY
TURNING Green
Whether you join the national parade, dye your food green or belt out a few bars of punk-rockfolk, this St Patricks Day promises to be one to remember, reports Mabh McDonnell.
rom rock concerts, to foodie Catherine Fulvios Ballyknocken events, to landmarks all over Cookery School in Co Wicklow the world turning green for is hosting a patriotric tutorial on the occasion, the traditional March 17, demonstrating how to St Patricks Day has come a long make the perfect Irish stew, soda way. Irelands national holiday has bread and Barm Brack. Guests are been transformed in recent years also invited to tour the schools farm. from a single day devoted to the Meanwhile, as a continuation small-scale parade through the of Tourism Irelands international local town, to a week-long cultural Going Green campaign, famous festival. Taking place from March landmarks across the globe will be 14 to 18 this year, St Patricks dyed in emerald shades to celebrate Festival promises to highlight the the national holiday. Last year saw the very best of what Ireland has to offer. Sydney Opera House, South Africas For music lovers, there will Table Mountain, the Leaning Tower be no shortage of home-grown of Pisa and Niagara Falls change entertainment. Rock legends colour in honour of St Patrick. In Aslan will perform in the Olympia 2013, Rio de Janeiros iconic Christ Theatre in Dublin for a special St the Redeemer statue will join them. Patricks night concert, kicking Other highlight celebrations off a year that celebrates their include I Love My City events 30th anniversary. And for those held across Dublin throughout celebrating across the pond, cult the festival. Edelle Moss, acting favourites Dropkick Murphys CEO of St Patricks Day Festival, will perform in their annual St is particularly enthusiastic about Patricks Day tour, from February these events, We find that most 21 to March 18, culminating people who travel to Dublin around in three nights in Boston. The festival time take in the parade, and Massachusetts bands unique the I Love My City programme blend of Irish trad and punk rock is to offer a different cultural has sold out audiences worldwide. experience, either pre or post the Their rendition of Rocky Road to festivals figurehead events. With Dublin guarantees a new-found a mixture of song, dance, poetry love of Irish folk music once its and theatre from some of Irelands accompanied by shredding guitar leading performers, they promise riffs and incredible drum solos. to bring something distinct to this But if you prefer holding a whisk years St Patricks Day. to banging a drumstick, Irish chef The festival is not only a huge
Above, The Peoples Parade is Dublins flagship St Patricks Day event, snaking its way through the city in a riot of colour, much to the delight of tourists and natives alike.
event in the Irish tourism calendar but this year it is also one of The Gatherings biggest events (for more on the years events, see page 36). The Peoples Parade is an opportunity for visitors to be part of the action. This will be an unforgettable experience for participants, says Moss. We have invited thousands of people from all around the world to participate in the St Patricks Day Parade in Dublin on March 17. So far there are participants from over 45 different countries registered. So whether you decide to be part of the parade, dye your fish pond green or make a fine Irish stew, make this St Patricks Day a good one.
For more information, stpatricksfestival.ie
AMSTERDAM GAELIC FC INVITATIONAL It wouldnt be right to celebrate all things Irish without honouring Gaelic games. Amsterdam Gaelic Football Club hosts an international invitational tournament on March 16. As one of continental Europes largest GAA clubs, the tenth anniversary event includes dinner and live music. Runs March 16. amsterdamgac.nl
LIMERICK INTERNATIONAL BAND FESTIVAL March 17 is a big day out for local and visiting bands, and the next day many will gather for Limericks International Band Festival. Now in its 43rd year, the festival is Irelands longest-running international band parade and competition. Runs on the bank holiday Monday, March 18. limerick.ie/stpatricksfestival
SOBER ST PATRICKS DAY, NYC For those who want to experience the day with a clear head, an event called Sober St Patricks Day, in New York City, is the place to visit. With a huge trad music session promising to go on into the late hours, its expected to be one big party (without the hangover). Runs March 16 at Regis High School, 55 East 84th Street. soberstpatricksday.org
28 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
gogarty
Temple Bar, DuBlin
oliver st John
W iFi throug
hout
Free
4 Course Lunch
25
r Gogartys Temple Bar Hostel - from just 12 B&B r Gogartys Self Catering Penthouse Apartments from 99
Ideal for receptions, launches or any special occasions, call us for venue hire options
58 -59 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel:
www.gogartys.ie
& Search for Oliver St John Gogarty
email:
info@gogartys.ie
Find us on
GogartysBar
sporT
The WINGMAN
t is a cold, wintry Saturday in November and the bad-tempered rugby international between Ireland and Argentina is 10 minutes and 30 seconds old. Ireland are on the attack and have a lineout on Argentinas 22. The ball comes to outhalf Jonny Sexton. Ulsters Craig Gilroy has come off his wing to appear at Sextons inside shoulder. He takes the pass, side-steps the Argentine outhalf Snchez and races clear. He still has winger Camacho to beat, and Sexton is calling for a return pass on his right. The try line is now 10 metres away. It is Gilroys first Irish cap. There is no way he is going to pass that ball. He steps inside Camacho and slides in for the try. The first man there to congratulate him is Sexton, who nearly knocks him into the Havelock Square end of 30 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Hes young, hes fast and hes a deadly finisher. Craig Gilroy is going places with Ulster, Ireland and (whisper it) the Lions. He tells David Robbins how he nearly missed out on all this by planning a gap year. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.
the ground. That was probably the hardest I was hit the whole game, he jokes afterwards. Jonny took it to the [gain] line and there was a gap inside, continues Gilroy. Luckily he put me through. I just remembered seeing a bit of space and sidestepped one of the guys and I knew I was in from there. The speed of his break that day, the balance of his running and the ease of his sidestep confirmed for a wider audience what people in Ulster rugby had been saying for months: Craig Gilroy is something special. And like many an overnight sensation, this performance was a long time coming. Gilroy had scored three tries the week before when Ireland played Fiji in an uncapped international. He had also scored a beauty of a try for Ulster against Munster the previous season in the
Shining star Craig Gilroy, opposite, left, with Ulster Rugby teammates Chris Henry and Andrew Trimble, this page, far left and left.
sport
quarter-final of the Heineken Cup, and two years ago, aged just 19, he scored the first try at the newly opened Aviva stadium when turning out for a Leinster/Ulster XV against a Connacht/Munster selection. So Gilroy, now 21, wasnt unknown, it was just that he had now announced himself on the international stage. And Ireland, who were still licking their wounds after a 60-0 hammering by the New Zealand All Blacks, were very happy to have him. Declan [Irelands head coach Declan Kidney] spoke to me after the game, says Gilroy. He congratulated me and told me to keep my feet on the ground. He was very happy with me. This is a big confidence boost, but I cant get ahead of myself. But its good to know I can perform at this level. Another who took notice was Warren Gatland, coach to the British and Irish Lions, who are due to tour Australia in June and July this year. A Lions cap is seen as the pinnacle of a players career, and most players involved in the Six Nations Tournament over the next two months will have one eye on a Lions Test place, even if they never admit as much publicly. He was outstanding, so he has put himself in contention some guy has put his hand up and made you sit up and take notice, Gatland said after the Ireland-Argentina game. Lions coaches traditionally play their cards close to their chest, so this was rare praise for a young player. Gilroy is reluctant to talk himself up, and refuses to speculate on a Lions call-up this summer. Its very flattering to hear. Its not something I spend a lot of time thinking about at all. There are plenty of things I need to think about first, like actually starting for Ulster, and then getting a place with Ireland, and then maybe the Lions down the road. I certainly wouldnt walk around and promote myself as going 32 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
All in a days work Craig Gilroy with Andrew Trimble and Chris Henry at Ulster Rugbys base at New Forge Country Club, near Belfast.
on a Lions tour, he says. Others were queuing up to praise the freshness and sense of adventure Gilroy brings to the game. Craig really came out of nowhere for us last season, says David Humphreys, director of rugby at Ulster and essentially Gilroys boss. He scored a magic try against Cardiff. He brings an X-factor to the game. He is one of those rare players who can change a game. Other Ireland and Ulster greats Trevor Ringland, Tyrone Howe and Jeremy Davidson have joined the chorus of approval. Davidson, a former Lions player, reckons hes just the sort of wild-card player who could make it onto the tour, while Howe has written about Gilroys pace, balance and ability to beat bigger players. On a dark, cold December morning at Ulster Rugbys base at Newforge Country Club, a Police Service of Northern Ireland sports centre on the outskirts of Belfast, all the praise and the glamour of international and Lions rugby seems
a long way distant. The training pitch is soft and wet and theres a cold wind whipping down the sidelines. Players and staff check in at a group of portacabins to get their orders for the day. Ulster Rugby (with whom Aer Lingus recently signed a two-year sponsorship deal as official airline) are moving to state-of-the-art facilities at Ravenhill next year but, for now, the Newforge Country Club is home. Its a Monday and Ulster are off the back of a 9-10 defeat to Northampton in a Heineken Cup pool match. Yet the mood in the camp is upbeat and the slagging that is never far from the surface in a sports squad is much in evidence. Gilroy is to be photographed for Cara with Chris Henry and Andrew Trimble. Trimble, who has 49 caps for Ireland, is generous in allowing Gilroy, with his one cap, to take the limelight. Henry, who has four caps, is equally indulgent of the new boy. There is some ribbing following a story in the Belfast papers that
a three-year deal with Ulster Rugby, Signed and sealed: Gilroy has just signed until 2016. For more rugby news and which will keep the winger at Ravenhill om. y.com, ulsterrugby.com and lionsrugby.c ugb ercr , .com ions nat rbs6 t visi , ates upd
estled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodlands and glittering lakes, Castle Leslie Estate is one of the last great Irish estates still in the hands of its founding family. Steeped in history, full
Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting for outdoor activity and adventure. Explore the Estate on horseback, enjoy some of Irelands finest coarse fishing, take in a movie at our private cinema, luxuriate in a relaxing massage in the Victorian treatment rooms, exhilarate in a abundance of outdoor adventures, or just borrow a pair of wellies from our boot room and go for a stroll on our 1,000 acres just some of the choices that await you in this hidden corner of Ireland.
Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes. The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers authentic original interiors and old-style hospitality and is a complete respite from the world. The Lodge is the social hub of the Estate, a country house boutique hotel that and brings locals and guests together in an atmosphere of conviviality and comfort. The Old Stable Mews and Village Cottages are the perfect spot for groups that want the convenience of hotel living combined with private self catering.
sport
Gilr is dati Gilroy dating Mi Miss Northern North Ireland Tiffany Brien. He manages to keep a straight face for the photographer, despite the off-camera humour from the two older players. Away from the cameras, Gilroy is still excited by his debut for Ireland, the try and the whole experience. The emergence of a bunch of young players Ulsters Paddy Jackson, Luke Marshall and Darren Cave all played in the Fiji match seemed to have lifted Irish rugby after the All Blacks defeat. The experience began when Gilroy joined 32 other players at a training camp for the Ireland squad held at Carton House in Maynooth last September in advance of the Guinness series of internationals last November a session which included those memorable matches against Argentina and Fiji. When we all came in to the Irish camp we were really enthusiastic and eager to learn, and the senior guys almost sort of worked off us as well at the same time, says Gilroy. They were happy enough to let us learn and they were patient with us, and the questions guys would ask. Gordon DArcy would be chatting away, and Id chat to Tommy [Bowe] and Trimby [Andrew Trimble] anyway. We hadnt been to that many camps, so we thought it was always like this, but talking to the senior guys, guys like Jonny Sexton said that it 34 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
was one of the th best be camps hes been be That first Irish cap against Leeds. He was tackled on Gilroy scores a his first touch of the ball and had involved in. try in the Ireland his jaw broken.) Gilroys performances for Ireland v Argentina match against Fiji and Argentina saw him And to think he nearly missed last November. compared to former Ireland great all this by taking a year off to go Simon Geoghegan. Both players travelling. Yeah, I was planning on have that special something that a gap year, recalls Gilroy, and then sends a frisson through the crowd Justin Fitzpatrick [former Ireland when they get the ball. It comes as player] sort of brought me with a shock to realise that Gilroy is too him from Bangor rugby club to young to have seen Geoghegan play. Dungannon. Ive heard about him, laughs Gilroy, who is one of five Gilroy, who was born in 1991 siblings and grew up in Belfast, (Geoghegans last game for Ireland had played for a well-nigh was in 1996). I know enough unbeatable Methodist College COMBAT about him. I keep being schools team before that, ZONE compared to him. alongside players such as The toughest opponents When he returned from Paddy Jackson and Niall Gilroy has played against are Ugo camp with Ireland the Annett (both of whom Monye (Harlequins and England), Geoghegan comparisons signed for Ulster) and for Chris Ashton (Northampton and ringing in his ears Gilroy the Ireland under-20 team. England) and Leinsters shane found himself on the bench Justin said, you can Horgan. He was a handful, for Ulster. Tommy Bowe (92 have a gap year any time, says Gilroy. caps for Ulster, 51 for Ireland why dont you just stay and and three for the Lions) and have a crack at rugby? Down Andrew Trimble (119 Ulster caps at at Dungannon, I was playing well time of writing) were selected ahead and got a few opportunities, for of him. Many saw it as the new the under-age teams at Ulster and Ulster coach Mark Anscombes way Ireland and then the Ulster A of bringing him back down to earth. side, and then eventually I got an Then Bowe was badly injured in opportunity for the seniors. Ulsters 9-10 defeat to Northampton His debut for the Ulster in a Heineken Cup pool match on senior side was against Cardiff in December 15. He was ruled out November 2010 and he scored for most of the season, so Gilroy is two tries, the second of which was sure to start in the white of Ulster a brilliant solo effort. Scoring on for the rest of the season. (He still debut seems to be something of a remembers his first appearance in habit. Now thats something for that jersey, in a pre-season friendly Warren Gatland to note.
n Expert physicians
n Prompt treatment
To find out more about the UPMC Beacon Centre for Orthopaedics or the services we offer, talk to your GP, visit www.orthopaedics.ie or Tel: 01 293 7575
people
The Irish are inviting friends and family from all over the world to join them in colourful celebrations and festivals for The Gathering. It promises to be one long party. Some of the folk behind the events talk to Ben Webb. Photographs by Steve Ryan.
is an immensely satisfying task to find new connections. Some people might be sceptical and ask why we bother, he says. But you see the fruits of your labour when people return to Ireland and you see their emotions the swelling of the eyes, the tear rolling down the face. We want to keep our diaspora close, to cherish our special affinity with people living abroad who share our cultural identity and heritage. Family reunions are just one of the event categories. There are plenty more. Just about every hobby or past-time is covered, from poetry readings and walking in the wilderness to art-house film festivals, charity fundraisers and comedy clubs. There is even a convention for classic Celtic redheads in Crosshaven, Co Cork. And if there is a gap, then the onus is on you to fill it. Simply log on to the dedicated website thegatheringireland.com and use the Create an Event tool to publicise your own party. It is also easy to find a gathering, as you can search the website by location or date. Not surprisingly, St Patricks Day is packed. If you fancy a day out on March 17 you could aim for Kinsale or Ballyhoura, Glenbeigh or Buncrana, Cappoquin or Wexford, and the list goes on. In Dublin, for example, Irishfest is being held on Georges Dock. Formerly known as the Irish Craft Beer Festival, this is a celebration of great Irish beer, food and music. More than 20,000 visitors are expected. Our goal is to create a St Patricks Day experience where consumers can sample, learn and be entertained by the best of what Ireland has to offer, says Seamus OHara, the festival co-chair and a stalwart of the Carlow Brewing Company. The Gathering is not just about having a good time, though. It also has a more serious objective, to help boost the economy by encouraging business. Niall Gibbons, chief executive of Tourism Ireland, believes a rise in visitor numbers will bring in much-needed revenue some have bandied about figures as high as 3.7 billion. A wave of American tourists would certainly help and the good news is that new slots for transatlantic flights have gone on stream. Aer Lingus has added one more long-haul plane and, overall, seat numbers will be up 20 per cent in the summer. Were getting back to what were good at tourism and agriculture and thats why The Gathering is out there, Gibbons says. Irelands a better value proposition now; its easier to get to and its good fun.
For more information on The Gathering, thegatheringireland.com
he clans are gathering. So too are the Fermoy poets, the Mayo McNicholases and a flag-waving tournament of international hurling teams. As are a serious symposium of scientists, conventions of busy businessmen and a hilarity or three of comics. Yes, just about everyone is gathering somewhere in 2013. Even broadcaster George Hook, who is hardly renowned for his displays of unbridled optimism, is a big fan. Get on with it and gather, he declares. Its going to be great. Taoiseach Enda Kenny may have launched the party, but The Gathering is much more about people power. And the Irish who have a well-earned reputation for throwing a very good party indeed have got right into the spirit. Gatherings are happening all over the country. With an estimated 70 million people claiming Irish ancestry, its no surprise that family reunions are one of the most popular types of event. From the Crummeys of Dublin and Conroys of Tipperary to the ODriscolls of Cork and those McNicholases of Mayo, the Irish are flooding home. It is no secret that the Irish are proud of their roots and genealogist Henry Healy, who tracks down people with Irish ancestry with a group called Ireland XO, says it
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
36 |
Henry Healy
Ireland reacHIng Out Henry Healy is the determined genealogist who persuaded Barack Obama to visit Moneygall in Co Offaly by revealing the US president had Irish ancestors who lived in the town. It was just the piecing together of a jig-saw, he explains modestly. But to have the opportunity to meet the US president and to shake his hand was a surreal experience. He now works with Ireland Reaching Out aka Ireland XO which builds genealogical connections in reverse. Instead of starting with curious individuals determined to trace their ancestry back to a long lost place, it starts with the local community itself and tracks down the families that once lived there. Its about communities reconnecting with their sons and daughters, says a cheerful Healy. Our volunteers are willing to do the research in their free time so that local towns and villages can build up a link and connect with the diaspora. The XO can mean hugs and kisses, which emulates our Irish welcome and our Cad Mle Filte! Healy believes The Gathering is a wonderful opportunity. Yes its about connections, but its also about celebrating Irishness. Its important to showcase everything Irish to our visitors, he continues. Communities and parishes should give guided tours of the natural and built heritage in their vicinity and share our national sports of hurling and Gaelic football. Every visit to Ireland will include the local pub, where again communities are encouraged to showcase our music and dancing. We want our ancestral sons and daughters to leave with a sense of belonging.
For more information, visit irelandxo.com or call 091 842 013.
people
Marita HitMiangsong
gatHering of tHe Clans We are a warm friendly people who hold traditions dear, have a strong sense of identity and a roguish sense of humour, explains Marita Hitmiangsong, co-founder of the Gathering of the Clans in south Kerry with Joe McGill. The people of south Kerry know how to enjoy themselves and can help others to do so too. In which case, this should be a seriously enjoyable party. More than 5,000 visitors are expected to descend on south Kerry for a festival of sport, culture and socialising. There will also be a Battle of the Clans with teams competing in traditional south Kerry sports such as football and four-oar rowing races in Seine boats. Another charming tradition to be revived will be crossroad dances. Across the region once again, young and old will meet up during the summer evenings to dance, listen to traditional Irish music and maybe even enjoy a little matchmaking. There is a serious side, too, with a variety of talks, poetry readings, exhibitions and film screenings showcasing the regions culture. Each town and village has its own story and these stories provide the basis for the knowledge of who we are as a people, Hitmiangsong adds. Our love of music, literature, sport and history provide us with an identity that makes us unique and distinct when we leave these shores.
Kerrys inaugural Gathering of the Clans runs from March 23 until April 1 at Iveragh, Caherciveen, Co Kerry. For more information, call 086 345 3630.
38 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
EXPERIENCE MORE
FOR LESS
24 HOUR RECEPTION COMPLIMENTARY WI-FI ON-SITE CAR PARKING FULLY EQUIPPED KITCHENS DAILY, WEEKLY & MONTHLY RATES AVAILABLE
BOOK ONLINE AT
www.staycity.com
people
the aer lingus international hurling Festival A colourful army of 15,000 fans will pack into Galways legendary Pearse Stadium on September 21 for the final of Irelands first truly international hurling competition. Hurling is uniquely Irish, a part of culture that goes back centuries, and a great way to reach the diaspora, says Mattie Kenny, the organiser, who used to play left corner-forward for the Galway senior team. The teams will take hurling very seriously and will want to play competitive games, but its also about a chance for family and friends to visit the country and enjoy the craic. The 16 teams four from North America, four from the UK, two from Europe, one from Asia, one from Australia and one each from the four provinces of Ireland will be seeded and split into four groups that will play in four regional centres. Each will play a minimum of three games. Like footballs world cup, the locals will support their visitors, creating a real festival atmosphere with plenty of venues holding Irish music nights. And with a junior tournament also being held, it should be a fantastic family occasion. The reach of GAA, which teamed up with Leinster hurling champions Galway and the Galway Hurling Supporters Club to host the event, stretches way beyond the shores of Ireland. Some of the teams have players that are fifth or sixth generation Irish and it will be great to welcome them to Ireland, Kenny says. It will be a great chance for young fans to meet their heroes and collect autographs. But its also a serious sporting spectacle in its own right.
The Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival runs September 18-21 at Pearse Stadium, Co Galway. aerlingushurling.com
Mattie Kenny
40 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Neills is one of Dublins most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned ONeills. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has ourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. ONeills is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ...
Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the nest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to nd Real Irish food in Dublin. Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers in Ireland Pour Your Own Pint tables Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.
6.95
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796
people
Professor Nicholas Farrell founded the WGNIS because he wanted Irish scientists to get the same recognition for their contribution to American life as their peers in business and the arts. A graduate of University College Dublin, who is now a professor of Chemistry at Virginia Commonwealth University (VCU) in America, he wanted to connect the Irish scientific diaspora and highlight their successes. Science and technology are by their nature collaborative and interdisciplinary, he says. The network gives an important platform for communication that will help grow the Irish knowledge-based economy. The Wild Geese was the name given to the Irish Jacobite army that departed for France under the Treaty of Limerick in 1691. Today, it is Irelands workers including academics and scientists that emigrate to find work. This years symposium, which includes talks, workshops, a youth programme and an awards ceremony, will be a highlight of the year. But encouraging business is also key. It will be a celebration of science, Farrell explains. It will be a unique opportunity to forge new links and develop existing relationships among Irish scientists. Any initiative that brings an innovation to market is vital for job creations and it is important people appreciate the contribution that professional groups like ours make a significant contribution to exports.
The WGNIS runs November 13-15 at the Convention Centre Dublin. For more information, visit wgnisgathering.com
42 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie (01 8221122) for just 10 per person return.
ohnnie Foxs Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.
Hooley Nights
For a real treat one should experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Foxs HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Foxs troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish music, a full 4 course evening meal and plenty of great craic.. at only 48 per person. AWARD WINNING KITCHEN TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES
www.jfp.ie
people
the McnicholaS clan GatherinG It is hard for anyone searching for McNicholas ancestry to know exactly which McNicholas family they belong to, says Zita Shovlin, organiser of the McNicholas clan gathering in Kiltimagh, Co Mayo. We want to create a bank of information to help McNicholases from around the world to discover their McNicholas connections. Invites for the first McNicholas Clan gathering have been sent out to family and friends on social media, but Shovlin says: We are already expecting at least 500 visitors and have found that word of mouth still travels far. The idea for the clan gathering was inspired by the prominence of the McNicholas name in Mayo, where the McNicholas name can be traced back to the 1500s. A few famous names have already cropped up during research. The mother of actress Imelda Staunton was a McNicholas from Bohola, while Bruce Springsteens grandmother was also a McNicholas. He even mentioned the name in his song American Land. With Bruce playing in Ireland next year, we hope hell drop by! Shovlin says. At the Gathering, there will be a talk and workshop on how to research your ancestry. It will also be a chance to bring together old photographs, testimonies, documents and oral histories. But its not all about family trees. The social side is extremely important, Shovlin says. It is a chance for the many local McNicholases to reunite with family and friends. The highlight will be the clan banquet where we will reveal the clan chieftain!
The McNicholas Clan Gathering is on September 14-21 at Aiden Street, Kiltimagh, Co Mayo. 094 938 1494.
Zita Shovlin
people
Margo Berry
The FerMoy InTernaTIonal poeTry FesTIval It is a most scenic and friendly town full of culture, arts and crafts, says Margo Berry, the organiser of this years Fermoy International Poetry Festival. We hope to attract a large number of visitors and promote the town as the artistic capital of north Cork. With 3,000 Facebook friends in 72 countries, the event is already attracting a lot of interest and Berry is expecting more than 200 poets, poetry fans and their families. There are too many people of Irish origin who express a wish to return to, or visit Ireland for the first time who never do. Here is their opportunity, she says. The social side is of paramount importance, but so is the poetry, as we have poets from 11 countries who will be reading their work. The line-up includes Tsead Bruinja and Jan Glas (Holland), Kim Moore (England) and Bradley Strahan (US). Berry, who became interested in poetry through her husband, Gene Barry, a published poet, will be reading her own poems at the popular open mic sessions. A civic reception is planned at the town hall, followed by a meal and a series of poetry readings in the towns Grand Hotel. There will also be book launches, poetry translation workshops and poetry bus rides into the nearby Galtee Mountains. As storytellers the Irish are natural poets and this is evident in the quantity of high quality poets Ireland continues to produce, says Berry.
The Fermoy International Poetry Festival runs from August 1-4. Email fermoypoetryfestival@gmail.com.
46 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
GRAND CENTRAL
10/11 OConnell St, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 8728658
Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly destroyed in the 1916 rising. Today you can still enjoy some of the original features, high dome ceilings and hand crafted stone, but now complimented with plush leather seats and dramatic chandeliers. Superb food served daily.
Traditional Irish hospitality awaits you in the Arlington Hotels. Boasting 200 Bedrooms in the Heart of the City. Experience the true Dublin and stay with us in these Iconic Locations.
KEHOES
Situated off Dublins premier shopping street, Grafton Street. This is one of the finest, if not the finest, Victorian pub in Dublin. Although it is unchanged since 19th century, this is not a museum, it is a buzzing vibrant pub with a fantastic atmosphere and a special place in the heart of Dubliners. This is a must see.
THE QUAYS
Awarded Irelands Best Value Hotel 2010 190 bedrooms 21 meetings rooms Amazing Wedding packages available Newlands Cross, Dublin 22. Tel: 01 403 3300 Email: stay@louisfitzgeraldhotel.com www.louisfitzgeraldhotel.com
THE QUAYS
AN POITIN STIL
JOELS RESTAURANT
Modern and bright, Joels is one of Dublins livliest dining venues, with an extensive menu catering for almost every taste.
A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group
www.louisfitzgerald.com
derry-londonderry
The Peace Bridge over the river Foyle connects Ebrington Square to the Cityside.
48 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
ExposurE
If youve never visited Derry-Londonderry, now is the time as a year-long culture fest kicks off with events as diverse as Primal Scream, the Turner Prize and a graffitti jam. Bridget Hourican enjoys the diversity of the City of Culture 2013 programme. Photographs by Peter Dybowski and David Sciora.
NorthErN
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 49
derry-londonderry
t doesnt get more symbolic than this. Ebrington Square overlooks the banks of the Foyle in the traditionally unionist Waterside. For 30 years this was a British army parade ground, with barracks menacing behind barbed wire. Today its where the new Peace Bridge connects the Waterside to the traditionally nationalist Cityside. The former parade ground has been turned into a huge outdoor concert arena, where Primal Scream are playing in March; and at the end of this year the renovated barracks will host the Turner Prize the first time the prize has been held outside England. So hope for a great sea-change/ On the far side of revenge/ Believe that a farther shore/ Is reachable from here, wrote former Derry schoolboy Seamus Heaney, in the apt lines quoted by DerryLondonderry City of Culture 2013 in the bid to be the first UK City of Culture. Derry-Londonderry saw off 14
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Top, graffiti on the streets of the city, and, above, Ebrington Square which hosts the Turner Prize later this year.
cities to win the bid, and it is not thinking small. Primal Scream and the Turner Prize are just two of the stand-out events in a massive programme spanning the entire year. Other highlights include the Fleadh Cheoil, the Royal Ballet, the London Symphony Orchestra performing a new cantata, with libretto by poet Paul Muldoon, a punk musical about the Undertones, and the world premiere of a new Sam Shepard play staged by Stephen
Reas Field Day Company, which regrouped for City of Culture. Locals and visitors to this small city of just over 100,000 people will enjoy a 2013 cultural programme to rival any of the worlds great cities. However the ambition goes deeper than providing entertainment and upping visitor figures. Our models are Glasgow and Liverpool, says Shona McCarthy, CEO of the City of Culture company, as European Cities of Culture, they werent
50 |
Loretta Brennan Glucksman, Chairman American Ireland Fund Mark Burnett, TV Producer (Emmy Awards, The Voice), Roma Downey, Actress (Touched by an Angel)
...Inspires us to connect with the light within, creating more peace and joy in our lives.
Inspiring! Deepak Chopra, NY Times best-selling author ...From her amazing art, I feel inexplicable joy and well-being.
Illuminating New York...a contemporary interpretation of light-infused phenomena. Irish Arts Review Lighting up living spaces. The Irish Times
e-mail: info@ArtistoftheLight.com ArtistoftheLight.com (Ire) 087 689 7332 and (US) 347 549 0551
Aisling Gallery, Hingham, Massachusetts, en route to Cape Cod, USA. On view by appointment at Officesuites, 20 Harcourt Street, Dublin 2, Ireland.
HISTORY
Distilled
for you to
DISCOVER
Kilbeggan Blended Irish Whiskey 40% Alc./Vol. 2012 Kilbeggan Distilling Import Company, Deereld, IL, USA
derry-londonderry
just about putting on lovely arts programmes, they were about the regeneration of the city. The aim is to get a million additional visitors to the city but, even more important, says McCarthy, is for people here to gain a sense of pride in their own place and sense of belief in themselves, and for outsiders to see us differently as a modern city with a place in the world and a different story to tell. Ive visited Derry twice previously and have always been impressed. The 400-year-old walled city includes the beautiful 17thcentury St Columbs Cathedral, and overlooks the Foyle, a wide, magnificent river. Just outside the Walls is some of the worlds most famous graffiti: You are now entering Free Derry heralds the entrance to the Bogside, and commemorates the early 1970s period when this was a no-go area for the RUC and British army.
This juxtaposition of 17th-century wealth and establishment, with 20th-century protest and radicalism is striking. Derry also has a remarkable cultural heritage. The Undertones were formed here in 1975 and three years later Teenage Kicks became a seminal song of New Wave punk. In 1980 the playwright Brian Friel and the actor Stephen Rea established Field Day Theatre Company, which was soon joined by the poets Seamus Heaney, Seamus Deane, and Tom Paulin, who developed a publishing arm. In 1978 Declan McGonagle, now director of the National College of Art and Design in Dublin, opened the remarkable Orchard Gallery, which showcased major Irish artists such as Willie Doherty, as well as international artists, including the installation of Antony Gormley sculptures on the city walls. Declan Long, lecturer in the National College of Art and
Above, playwright Clare Dwyer Hogg whose first play kicked off events. Opposite page, far right, cannons on the city Walls. Right, Maoliosa Boyle, manager of The Void.
t ry Taxis Tours, whose native guides visi For insider knowledge on the city, try Der further gs (+44 28 7126 0247, derrytaxis.ie). For local murals, sights and historic buildin discovernorthernireland.com or contact information on Northern Ireland go to St, Dublin 2 on Callsave 1850 230 230. the Tourism Information Centre, Suffolk
52 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Design in Dublin and one of the Turner 2013 judges, points out that having the Turner Prize in Derry makes sense, given the drive and innovation in visual arts thats been seen there over many years the ambition on the part of artists and curators has often led to direct links with the Turner. In the 1980s McGonagle was shortlisted for the prize, one of the few curators to have ever made the shortlist, and Willie Doherty has been shortlisted twice. Today Maoliosa Boyle is manager of the Void, which was named one of the UKs top ten contemporary art galleries by the Guardian. Shes
2
from Derry, and the Orchard was a huge part of my upbringing and very much informed me in terms of my career choice. Launching the Void in 2005, it was natural to think cosmopolitan. When Simon Starling won the Turner Prize in 2005, the only place he was exhibiting in the whole of the UK was the Void. Today the connection with the Turner continues. For City of Culture, as well as running six major exhibitions in the Void including the South African artist Candice Breitz Boyle is also curating two of the Turner artists in the renovated barracks in Ebrington Square. Clare Dwyer Hogg is a young playwright whose first play, Farewell, kicked off the City of Culture when it was performed by the revived Field Day in December 2012. Shes a Cambridge-educated, London-based journalist on the staff of The Independent, but when it came to writing drama she drew on the Northern Ireland she grew up in. Farewell was informed, though not based on the story of Denis Donaldson [the IRA informer shot dead in Donegal in 2006]. She wrote it on maternity leave and honestly I was just writing for myself and not thinking who would read it, but she had Stephen Rea in her mind as the ideal actor, so she sent it to him on spec. He took it on for Field Day and commissioned another play, to be performed in May. Its a fairytale story for a fledgling playwright, and also a story which, like Boyles, says a lot about the cultural heritage of Northern Ireland. Young artists have the legacy of the recent past to inform their work; they also have established networks to draw on.
Fleadh CheOil na hireann august 11-18, Cultrlann i Chanin For the first time since 1951, the worlds biggest festival of Irish culture goes north of the border. For a week in August 300,000 visitors are expected to descend on the city for sessions, cil, sean-ns, bands, as well as drama and art exhibits. fleadhcheoil.ie POliTiCal MOTher: derrylOndOnderry unCuT March 8-9, ebrington square Former rock drummer Hofesh Shechter brings his world-famous dance company to DerryLondonderry for a gritty, emotional performance, featuring a live band of
Field day: saM shePard november, Guildhall The legendary Field Day company, founded by Brian Friel and Stephen Rea in 1980, is back for the first time since 1995. Here, it has two newly commissioned plays by young Northern Irish playwrights, and in November will premiere a new play by the great American playwright Sam Shepard. cityofculture2013.com The COnquesT OF haPPiness May 1-31 An international cast of artists explore the tantalising possibility of happiness in anunhappy world through music, dance and drama. Inspired by Bertrand Russells essay on happiness, this is a multiartform, large-scale, open-air event led by internationally acclaimed director Haris Paovi. cityofculture2013.com
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 53
derry-londonderry
Top, St Augustines; above, Shona McCarthy, CEO of the Culture Company 2013; below, view from the historic Walls.
Although DerryAl Lond Londonderry is used to punching above its weight culturally, there was until th recently something re disparate about di the citys cultural th output. When Id ou visit previously, vi I had a sense of a potentially remarkable city that was not quite coalescing. Id qu mention to locals how handsome I found their city and theyd look bemused. As a child, Dwyer Hogg lived about an hours drive away in Antrim but says her family never visited because Derry-Londonderry
wasnt marketed as a cultural hotspot. The Foyle seemed on the edge rather than at the heart of the city. The Peace Bridge, together with the renovated Ebrington Square and pedestrianised riverbank, has already made a profound difference. McCarthy agrees: I knew the bridge would be lovely, but it has doubled the size of the city centre and brought the river into focal point. This sense of unifying and connecting is at the heart of the City of Culture. McCarthy believes that what swung the bid was the absolutely collective voice. The city brought together all the diverse strategies for economic, social and creative development into a single plan, called in fact The One plan. When it came to bidding, we were harnessing the power of a whole city coming behind something and having real conviction about it. Derry-Londonderry City of Culture seems a bit like an iceberg the huge supporting mass is under the surface. The tip the bit that will bring visitors pouring in consists of the headline events, the Royal Ballet, Fleadh Cheoil, Hofesh Shechters dance Political Mother and the world premiere of The Conquest of Happiness, an open-air performance inspired by Bertrand Russells essay on happiness and led by Bosnian director Haris Paovi.
54 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Wine BiSTRO
www.peploes.com
On the doorstep of the Dylan, Merrion, Shelbourne, Conrad, Westbury, and Fitzwilliam Hotels
derry-londonderry
eat at ...
SPlUrGe If youve made it this far and the purse can stretch and you can get a booking, definitely check out Browns (1 Bonds Hill, 028 7134 5180; browns restaurant.com), recognised for two decades as one decade of Northern Irelands best restaurants. Ian Orr, left, formerly of Rathmullan House in Donegal, recently took over the kitchen and has kept up the tradition of fresh combinations of luxurious local produce. On the Wa Waterside on Lough Foyle, prices from 6.50 for starters and 13 for mains, which is good for the quality. MId-ranGe In a small courtyard in the heart of the historic city, Caf del Mondo (The Craft Village, 028 7136 6877; cafedelmondo.org) has an intimate setting and serves simple food, local and organic where possible. Open from breakfast through to 11pm, they change the menu frequently to keep it fresh. Not everything works and although informal and bistro-style its not the cheapest place in the city, but has good coffee, vegetarian options, great cakes, and nice ambience. the Custom House (Queens Quay, 028 7137 3366; customhouserestaurant. com) is a three-storey bar and restaurant in a listed building. The dining room is on the first floor with a view of the Foyle. Serves soup, sandwiches, salads and pasta for lunch, and steaks, chicken, fish for dinner. Good solid fare, well priced. Next door is the exchange, with similar fare but the atmosphere is a little more hectic.
Supporting these flagship shows are hundreds and hundreds (I havent counted) of smaller events. Ask people what theyre looking forward to and you uncover new layers in the programme: Dwyer Hogg is excited by author Jennifer Johnstons Three Monologues and by theatre company 11:18s performance on the Belfast-Derry train. Long is looking forward to the Foyle Film Festival, to a music/poetry work, At Sixes and Sevens, created by poet Paul Muldoon and composer Mark-Anthony Turnage, and to the Other Voices Festival an intimate series of concerts usually staged in a church in Dingle, but moving this year, as they are saying, From 56 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Clockwise from left, sunlight on city streets; Sara Greavu artist and co-ordinator at the Centre for Contemporary Art; Ian Orr head chef at Browns Restaurant.
The Village
www.thevillagevenue.com
/thevillagevenue @thevillagevenue
26 WEXFORD ST DUBLIN 2
derry-londonderry
.Com
Ke fATTIB uR
Stay at ...
Although hotels are building extensions faster than you can book, Derry-Londonderry is not set up to accommodate a million visitors so book as early as you can. Also, if you have wheels, check out Donegal, Limavady, Strabane and the hinterland. The city council is also initiating a scheme for people to hire out rooms in their houses. Keep an eye on derryvisitor.com. SPlUrGe A little outside the city but convenient for the airport, the everglades Prehen Road, 028 7132 1066; hastingshotels.com) is a fourstar hotel with the comfort and excellent service of all the Hastings hotels. Good-sized beds and decent food. MId-ranGe It is just a couple of miles south of the city, but at Beech Hill Country House Hotel (32 Ardmore Road, 028 7134 9279; beech-hill.com) you feel like youre in the country. This small hotel of less than 20 rooms is set in 42 acres of woodland. The 1729 house has kept many of its original features. It also has a decent restaurant, The Ardmore. BUdGet Very central, just outside the Walls, Joan and Peter Pynes B&B, Merchants House (16 Queen Street, 028 7126 9691), has eight rooms in a Victorian house. Clean, comfortable, good breakfast, but a lot of stairs and no lift because its a listed building. They run a more budget B&B, The Saddlers House, nearby in Great James Street.
TIo ILLuSTRA
n By fATT
I Bu RKe
Above, right, The Craft Village, and below, Emma Tracey and Damien Morrison enjoy coffee time at the Legendary Warehouse.
Kerry to Derry. And then there are the local events aimed not at tourists but at long-term cultural regeneration. Portrait of a City will work with community groups, schools, libraries and archives to create a digital online resource of photographs, film and oral history documenting the story of DerryLondonderry. The Music Promise is a year-long programme of inspirational learning for children, and Waterside Youth Forum will present the citys first International World Peace Summit, encouraging
dialogue among young people from conflict areas in Europe. The intention, as in Glasgow and Liverpool, is for City of Culture to plant seeds that will flourish over the next years, and even decades. But Derry-Londonderry is more ambitious still: City of Culture is intended as nothing less than a catalyst to draw a hitherto divided city together. Ideally, over time, all those living here, who describe themselves as British and Irish and neither, and Catholic and Protestant and neither, and nationalist and unionist and neither, will take shared pride in, and ownership of, their city (whatever they choose to call it). Thats why the Executive of Northern Ireland gave 12.6 million to City of Culture, the biggest single investment for cultural programming ever made on these islands, according to McCarthy. This was a vote of promise in the future and in the power of the arts. Do visit. As long as youre in possession of at least one of the five senses, you will find something you like.
58 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
We are very pleased with the quality of workmanship, levels of safety and the total commitment of BAM sta to construct a building which has genuinely exceeded our expectations
DELL / Quest Software
It was a pleasure to work with John Cleary and the Dell / Quest team, where everyone worked together in true partnership to deliver the project on time and within budget
Theo Cullinane, CEO BAM Contractors
www.bamcontractors.ie
Call Mike Jones on 00 353 87 629 7738
The Balearics
Sunny Side Up
Whether youre looking for culture, shopping, sandy beaches, nightlife or wildlife, between them, the Balearic islands of Mallorca and Menorca have got it all. Roger Norum visits two very different holiday spots.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 61
The Balearics
H
62 |
aving spent my share of summers on Sicily, Corsica and Sardinia, Id long wondered why I had never quite made it over to the Balearic islands, those specks of white sand off Spains eastern coast. After all, they are closer, more affordable and more welcoming to English speakers than many other Mediterranean destinations. Most people I know raved about them. But were they not exotic enough for me? Too close? Too fish-and-chips? This past summer, I decided it was finally time to hang up my hang-ups and head down to their warm waters. In the old town of Palma, Mallorcas capital, I settled into the Dalt Murada (+34 971 425 300;
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
daltmurada.com), a splendid family-run mansion, done up with th antique furnishings and d which has a garden for breakfasts of fresh fruit t and strong coffee. From om here, I explored different ent parts of the city, a lively ly commercial hub that has a population of just st under half a million, with shopping areas, buzzy cafs, refurbished old buildings and fountained ed gardens, all enclosed by mazy lanes and ancient city walls. The citys massive Gothic cathedral, which peers over the harbour from a hilltop but is most spectacular when viewed from the waterside esplanade below, took some 500 years to complete.
Top, the Gothic cathedral in Palma at sunset. Above, Roger Norum discovers island life.
This drawn-out process allowed for some gorgeous allow adornments, such as the ador southern doors sculpted sout Flemish-style ecclesiastical Flem figurines, sat at a Last figur Supper. Inside the turreted Sup Palau de lAlmudaina Pala palace opposite, Moorish pala governors once held gove court and now a series of cour medieval corridors and me austere rooms are home to au a handsome collection of Flemish tapestries. Palma, Flem it turns out, ab abounds in palaces the nearby Renaissance-style Palau March, for example, where arcaded galleries and imperious Italianate bulk take up an entire block (and contain two Henry Moores and a torso by Rodin). Of the four largest Balearic
- NEW YORK -
66 W 47th St - #24 New York, NY 10036 Showroom: +1(212) 302-6605 Fax: +1(212) 719-1018 info@haniken.com
www.haniken.com
The Balearics
islands, Mallorca, along with its quality that is beyond anything Above, a hikers asked Alejandro, an islander friend, paradise the what it was. The Mediterranean sister island Menorca, is probably the youll have tasted elsewhere. The Tramuntana gives you blue skies and warm best known to northern Europeans. typical food of the paieses (peasants) mountain range While cosmopolitan Ibiza is famous waters olives and seafood, is rough and rich, with much-beloved in Mallorca offers for its hedonistic dance parties, specialities including arroz brut (a breathtaking mountains and beaches, he and olde-worlde Formentera is winter dish of rice and pork), tumbet views. explained. On Mallorca, there are popular with paparazzi-averse celebs, the same elements but the intensity (roasted aubergine, potatoes, garlic Mallorca and Menorca are ideal is just something more. and tomato), longanizas and sobrasadas spots both for families looking Theres intensity in the food, too. (spicy sausages), and my favourite, to kick back and bronze, as While Mallorcan cuisine may not tramp, a large summery salad packed FIESTAS well as couples with a love have the sophistication of, say, with tuna and thinly cut tomatoes, Both islands know how to for the great outdoors. Galician or Basque food, the onions and green peppers. This party. On Mallorca, the Festival Mallorca has the third quality and freshness of island potpourri salad might sound run-ofinternacional de Jazz de sa busiest airport in Spain ingredients lend an intangible the-mill, but Mallorcas year-round pobla (mid-August), offers some of and a buzzing cultural the best modern and classic acts, and life, while Menorca on Menorca, visit the Fiesta of san has quiet olive groves eaTiNG aNd sleepiNG iN Mallorca ... Juan (June 2324), where horses and hidden coves. Both com) is an idyllic getaway in the form of a islands boast large beach Located in the heart are ridden through the restored stone finca, offering twelve smart of Palmas Old Quarter, resorts in pockets along streets of Ciutadella. the boutique property can and unfussy guest rooms; doubles from 130. the coast, as well as quiet, In the village of Inca, meanwhile, you can dine cera (Calle de San Francisco secluded hideaways. out at the excellent Joan Marc restaurant 8, +34 971 715 012; cancerahotel. West of Palma, towards the (Plaa del Blanquer 10, +34 971 500 804; com) offers a dozen classically furnished beer-guzzling resort of Magaluf, joanmarcrestaurant.com), which does chic rooms and suites, along with a restaurant and skyscrapers tower over the flat but affordable takes on classic native dishes. restorative spa; doubles from 165. Sheltered shore, stretching along what is one Almost all ingredients and many of the wines by green mountains on Mallorcas peaceful of the islands longest and most are locally sourced and full dinners with north-west coast at Dei is the luxury la impressive beaches, the Platja de wine shouldnt come in at over 30. An hour residencia (Carrer Son Canals, s/n +34 971 Palma. Though many areas in due east in Arta is la calatrava (Calle Ses 639 011; hotel-laresidencia.com), consisting the Mediterranean have beaches Roques 13, +34 971 836 663; lacalatrava.com), of twin manor houses tucked in among the and villas, something about these a bohemian-styled patio restaurant set in an lush olive and citrus groves at the foothills of Spanish islands makes them feel a expansive townhouse in the centre of town. the Serra Tramuntana; doubles from 290. place apart. One afternoon at the They serve large portions of local dishes, with Meanwhile, located just northeast of Palma, Can Joan de SAigo, a renowned beef and veal making particularly lip-smacking Finca hotel es castell (Disseminat Binibonaalley coffee shop thats been around appearances. Calle Caimari, +34 971 875 154; fincaescastell. for centuries (try its freshly baked ensaimadas, or spiral pastry buns), I 64 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for:
Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers
Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science
Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals. Personal service and fast turnaround assured.
Kilkenny T: 056-7767994
www.obrienandassociates.com
t Don s i Ms
Just 13km from Dublin city centre and 10 minutes from Dublin Airport book online at www.malahidecastleandgardens.ie or call + 353 1 8169538 open All year round
the balearics
The hillside village of Valldemosa, far Va left, and, left, the left stalactite caves at stala Coves del Drac, Co Porto Christo, are Port well worth a day trip.
sunlight and fresh sea air give the vegetables a unique, succulent taste. The ancient Greeks called the Balearic islands Gymnesiae (naked in Greek) because its inhabitants were often found in the nude no doubt due to the year-round warm weather, sunny skies and open, sandy coast. The Balearics first became known strategically among the Phoenicians and Carthaginians, who made use of them as regular ports of call for trade. Over the years, they passed through the hands of the Romans, Vandals, Pisans, Visigoths, Barbary pirates, French, British, Catalans and, of course, the Spanish, who have maintained sovereignty over them for the past 200 years. Its a chequered history that has given the island the diversity of cultural traditions it has today. There is plenty of culture away from the capital, too. I made my 66 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
way north to Valldemosa, a tiny village where narrow streets hide blond stone doorways emblazoned with symbols of Mallorcas patron saint and protector, Saint Catalina Thoms. In the settlements 13thcentury Carthusian monastery, Polish composer Frederic Chopin found inspiration with French author George Sand in the late 1830s. A host of other creative types also found solace in these parts: English poet Robert Graves, who lived in charming, inland Dei for more than 50 years and is now buried on the hill next to the town church. Dei became something of a foreign artists colony, and Graves many visitors included novelists Kingsley Amis and Gabriel Garca Mrquez, and actors Alec Guinness and Peter Ustinov, the latter of whom eventually also settled on the island. Gravess partner in crime, Gertrude Stein, once famously said:
explore a cave coves del Drac are easily the finest of eastern Mallorcas numerous cave systems, with fantastically shaped stalactites and stalagmites, as well as one of the worlds largest subterranean lakes. Though taking photos is prohibited, the tour of the caves (cuevasdeldrach.com) is well worth it arrive by boat via the day trip from Callas de Mallorca to Porto Cristo. hike about Take a days excursion out to the cabrera (Goat Island), the largest islet of an 18-island rocky archipelago a dozen miles off Mallorcas southern coast. Despite its seriously hostile terrain, the national park here is a great place to explore. The waters around the island are also excellent for diving thanks to a handful of great underwater archaeological sites. beach it cala Gat is a narrow cove beach with a popular bar perched against the steep, wooded coastline of the eastern island town of cala rajada .
- Guided Factory Tour - Opulent Retail Store - The Worlds largest collection of Waterford Crystal
House of Waterford Crystal The Mall, Waterford City, Ireland Call:+353 (0)51 317 000 E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com W: www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
K N I T W E A R FA S H I O N J E W E L L E RY G I F T S
www.carraigdonn.com
* T & C Apply, Additional cost will be incurred for priority postage
The Balearics
Clockwise from top left, the pretty fishermans village of Binibquer, Menorca; guitarist Veronica Losada in Palma; beach bliss at Es Cal Blanc; Cove den Xoroi in Menorca, the best place to watch the sunset.
68 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
If you like Paradise, Mallorca is Paradise. Sitting with my feet in the sand of the Cala Dei cove beach on Mallorcas northern coast, a light breeze in my face and the sun up above, I found it hard to disagree with her. But there is somewhere even more remote and hidden than Mallorcas rural settlements: Menorca. From Mallorcas coastal harbour of Alcudia once a famed stronghold for smuggling I hopped on a yellow catamaran for the islands smaller, more laconic sibling. Youre on time! Kiko called out to me, tapping on his watch as he eyed me parking my scooter in the driveway. Not the first thing I expected to hear from a cheesemaker on a diminutive Spanish island someone Id imagine to have all the time in the world. But Kiko is a busy man uddering, culturing, coagulating, draining, scalding, mould-ripening to say
ens ch Menorca is well known, are sold in doz Abarcas, the basic leather shoes for whi 14, SAvarca de Menorca in Mahn: Angel of colours in shops across the island (try , which se days is the local brand Pretty Ballerinas +34 971 366 341). Even more popular the ). Industrial, +34 971 373 838; mascaro.com has a factory shop in Ferreries (Polgono
nothing of eating. While its a haven for cheese lovers the sweet-and-salty Queso de Mahon is the islands most famous export Menorca has plenty
Above, boats in Ciutadella harbour, Menorca.
GO SCUbA diviNG Menorcas entire north coast is a protected nature reserve, off limits to everyone but a few local fishermen and divers, making it the best part of the country for underwater exploration. diving Center Fornells (+34 971 376 4 31; divingfornells.com) runs several dives daily (from 60 with full equipment rental). PADI open water diving courses cost 450 in high season. RENT A SCOOTER Riding a scooter is by far the best way to make it around the island. Parking is a breeze and you can get down narrow roads that would be harrowing in a car. Anthonys bikes (+34 971 377 7 56; anthonysbikes.com) rents out scooters from 35 per day, including 125cc Hondas
for which you dont need a motorcycle licence; bicycles are also available. EAT lOCAl ChEESE White, semi-fat and rich in texture and flavour, Menorcan cheese, or queso Mahon, is made by adding a smidgen of ewes milk to cows milk. It comes in a range of maturities: aejo (very mature), curado (mature), semi-curado (semi-mature) or tierno (young). There are several farms you can visit and learn about cheesemaking, including the Museo del Queso hort de Sant Patrici in Ferreries (+34 971 373 702; santpatrici.com). TASTE MENORCAN GiN Gin has been produced on Menorca since the 18th century. The Xoriguer gin distillery, which is where it all began, offers free tours daily (except
Sunday) that let you sample various gins and other spirits such as the, aniseed calent, or the liquorice-flavoured quorice-flavoured palo. A litre of Xoriguer gin here costs around ound 12. viSiT SiT MAS hARbOUR Yellow Catamarans (+34 639 676 351, yellowcatamarans. atamarans. com) runs ns hour-long tours off the Port de Ma roughly once every ery hour. The catamarans tamarans take in the entire harbour area, and below deck are glass bottoms ttoms for underwater water viewing when the e sea is clear. Boats depart from the dock near the foot of the Costa sta de Ses Voltes. es.
else. As with its westerly big sister (Menorca was termed minor by the Romans in contrast to its more major neighbour), here youll find pale blue skies, deep blue seas, and red-hot sun. But luckily Menorca has managed to avoid most high-rise hotel development, meaning that its pint-sized port villages retain plenty of original character. The island has some excellent rural hotels, both inland and coastal, and something that often surprises cultur culture buffs a series of dramatic prehisto prehistoric ruins known as talayots. From my base at the Mor Morvedra Nou, a 17th-century fa farmhouse re-imagined as a stunning boutique hotel hotel, I rode my scooter a few kilometres south to Macarella, an idyllic cove on the southwest coast with ve very fine, white sand and calm turquoise water sh sheltered by pine and oak hills. Around a sand-duned corn corner, I discovered an even less populated spot, Ma Macarelleta cove, which to my surprise was extremely popu popular with nudists (gymnast (gymnasts, perhaps, to the Greeks?). Wh While Mallorca is large en enough to have a rush hou hour (in as much as laid-back island
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 69
The Balearics
GeTTiNG arOUND
The best times to travel to the Balearics to avoid the crowds are late spring (April to June) and late summer (August to midSeptember). Ferries run between the two islands several times daily and cost roughly 50 each way for foot passengers. Ports of call are Palma and Alcudia (on Mallorca) and Mao and Ciutadella (on Menorca). For specific schedules and pricing, contact any of the three ferry companies at balearia.com, iscomar. com or trasmediterranea.es.
ILLuSTrATIon By ChrIS JuDge
communities can), Menorca offers many more places where you wont find so much as a bicycle. It also has more beaches than Mallorca and Ibiza combined 120 at last count most of which remain undeveloped. loped. In fact, the entire 700-square-kilometre island is a UNESCO biosphere reserve, a designation issued in 1993 for the rich flora and fauna across its wetlands, gorges, forests and salt marshes. I drove one evening along a solitary road out to Cap Favritx, a lone cape located within the islands sprawling Albufera National Park, one of the centres of the biosphere. Set above craggy planks of black slate cliffs and surrounded by a dramatic barren, lunar landscape, the handsome, striped Cap de Favritx lighthouse was being lashed by strong Tramuntana winds and
foaming waves that regularly flood the esplanade. If Mother Nature was anywhere, she was here. On my last morning, I walked through the jumbled streets of the island capital of Ma, its port once of serious military and commercial value. Gin was produced here as early as the 18th century, when the British merchant marine consumed mass quantities; today the dangerously refreshing pomada, gin with lemonade and ice, is effectively a state drink. At the lookout point towards Bloody Island named after its English military hospital, treating patients of yellow fever, cholera and the plague I stopped to speak to an elderly man wearing a beret who was staring out to a cruise ship. I told him I liked his hat, and asked if I could take a photo. Yes, you can. But can you do it quickly? I have somewhere I have to be. He was gracious, and we talked about life. I thanked him. As he turned to leave, I asked, Where do you have to be? wondering what could be so urgent for a man whod spent all of his 88 years in a single, coastal Mediterranean town. La isla, he responded, simply. The island.
aer lingus flies from Dublin to Palma de Mallorca, Tue, Sat, Sun, from Cork, Wed and Sat, and from Belfast, Tue and Sat.
70 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Irelands
Our expertise: Air Freight Ocean/Sea Freight Freight Management Customs
Norbert Dentressangle offers Irish businesses a new dynamic vision of freight forwarding.
Red Sky Connect ensures complete visibility, security and control of your goods from origin to final destination. The service is truly global, connecting the major trading regions: Asia, Europe, North and South America. Personal commitment and responsibility are central to everything we do, and the people at the heart of Red Sky Connect make the crucial difference in offering a supply chain partner that you can trust, ensuring your business runs smoothly. Bringing people closer to their dreams
Belfast
Shannon
The event is a 3 day International Business Networking Forum 600 Irish & International SMEs in attendance Almost 10,000 meetings 16 one-to-one meetings per delegate
Find us on
Pickling, smoking, foraging and fermenting are the culinary buzzwords for foodies in the Big Apple in 2013. As New York Restaurant Week plates up, Lizzie Gore-Grimes gets a taste of whats to come. Photographs by Steve Ryan.
Irish chef Seamus Mullen of Tertulia, a Spanish-style gastro pub, where Manhattan is eating right now.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 73
T
74 |
heres always a good reason to visit New York; always something exciting going on, setting the world alight. And nowhere is this truer than in the food world. There can be no doubt that where New Yorkers lead the rest of us will follow. So what have they got up their culinary sleeve for us this year? Last year it was all about reinventing comfort food and reining things in, in line with diners straitened purse strings. But now, its loosening up again and theres a fresher, global feeling to dining in the city. Really exciting ethnic restaurants are springing up all over the place, stashed away in odd-ball locations, spawning a new form of foodie treasure hunt. While in the finer dining establishments, the spotlight is on farm-to-table ingredients, with vegetables, in-house fermentation and infused vinegars all the rage, in other new places the chefs table is no longer an addition to the restaurant kitchen but is the restaurant. And, most striking of all, the really hot-right-now places have left the island. Move over Manhattan this is Brooklyns moment. Small, cosy and rustic thats
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
whats hot in New York rk at the moment, says seasoned New York restaurateur Jean-Marc Houmard, founder of Indochine, Acme and more than a few other super-fashionable NYC eateries. The places that are leading the pack at the moment are the ones that are championing farm-totable produce in an unfussy fussy setting. Were also seeing a resurgence of hole-in-the wall, cool and quirky eateries springing up in previously unfashionable neighbourhoods, such as the Lower East Side, Brooklyn and Williamsburg. On menus, flavours that might have been reserved for niche ethnic dining 15 years ago are now becoming familiar finds, particularly Asian flavourings such as togarashi and yukukoshi people are no longer hesitating to try unfamiliar things. Houmard himself made a brave move early last year, re-launching Acme Bar & Grill in the East Village as Acme (9 Great Jones Street, +1 212 203 2121; acmenyc.com) with a completely new culinary identity created by Danish chef Mads
Clockwise from top, fast-paced New York; human statue in Times Square; foraged foods figure large at Acme, the Downtown bastion of Nordic eating; foodie writer Lizzie GoreGrimes.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 75
Far left, restaurateur JeanMarc Houmards re-branded Acme in the East Village. Left, and below, Gavin kaysen, head chef at Caf Boulud, says New York Restaurant Week allows us to showcase what we do to a much wider audience
Refslund, co-founder of Noma in Copenhagen. Where Acme Bar & Grill was popular for its Southern cuisine of collard greens and fried everything, now Acme is the buzzing new Downtown bastion of Nordic fare. Here Refslund showcases the delicate, reductive art of forager victuals that Noma became worldfamous for, although critics describe it as a pared-down version of his collaborators high locavore style. There is no burger at this brasserie. In its place youll find plenty of honest offerings such as pearl barley, chestnuts, celery root, house-cured salmon, Long Island oysters and black sea bass not to mention pickled fiddlehead ferns and hay-smoked Jerusalem artichokes among other earthy esoterica. Who knew tubers could be so sexy? As in many avant-garde kitchens in the city at the moment, the chefs at Acme have ditched the fryer and done away with heavyhanded seasoning in favour of a menu that places vegetables in the
spotlight and makes the most of pickling, smoking, foraging and fermenting undoubtedly the culinary buzzwords for 2013. Small, rustic and cosy is also having a moment at an unassuming looking eatery in NoLita. This small restaurant might not look like much from the outside, with its old-school lace curtains and scripted sign on the windows, spelling out Torrisi Italian Specialties (250 Mulberry Street, +1 212 965 0955; torrisinyc.com), but this teeny Italian dining room offers a unique eating experience in the city right now. Opened by Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone, the charming 20-seater restaurant in Little Italy has a seven-course set menu ($65 a head). To read it sings of soulful Italian-American cooking. Antipasti of warm mozzarella, DaVero olive oil; Brighton beets; charred octopus, shishito and tomato; Italian sausage pat, peppers and onions followed by pasta fagioli in smoked ham broth and then a choice of two entrees: monkfish dogana or
experience some of the citys finest cooking, at places such as nobu, Lure fishbar, nougatine at Jean-Georges, Maze by Gordon ramsay and Caf Boulud. I love the concept behind NYC Restaurant Week, says Gavin Kaysen, head chef at Caf Boulud. It allows us to showcase what we do to a much wider audience and we are humbled by the amount of people who come here during that time and in return, we try and make sure they get the very same experience our regular diners get any other time of the year.
New York Restaurant week runs until February 8 and will return again in the summer. See nycgo.com/ restaurantweek for more.
les, housein 2013 bitter greens, esoteric vegetab Trend alerT ... whats on the menu s, sweet emade vinegars, upscaled chicken, hibiscu smoked everything, fermentation, hom earth grills. t cider, wood-burning stoves and open-h geranium and other edible flowers, craf
76 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
PETERS
THE MUCKY DUCK
Celbridge, Co. Kildare 01 6288340 / muckyduck.ie Situated in the heart of Celbridge, Co. Kildare Guinness Time began here in the Guinness family home with the birth of Arthur Guinness in 1725. So began a wonderful piece of Irish history. With that heritage it's no surprise that the Mucky Duck has earned a reputation for great food and drink. A must visit for fans of the "Black Stuff "!
AN SIBIN
Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8250556 / sibin.ie With it's traditional thatched roof An Sibin is a landmark in the heart of the village of Dunshaughlin. A blend comfort and age old of new world com tradition serving breakfast, lunch and dinner while also the perfect venue for parties and great nights out.
Our signature Steak on the Stone special is a must have, a unique dining experience which is available on all our a la carte menus.
S T EA K O N T H E S T O NE
Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8240133 / carberrys.ie Summer 2013 promises to be a bumper period for sports fans so Carberry's is the place to be to sample a all the atmosphere while also enjoying the summer days in our outdoor pavilion.
CARBERRYS
For show & shuttle bus from city centre. Now booking for 2012 & 2013
O F L AH ER TY S / BR AD Y S BA R
Navan, Co. Meath 046 9022810 / oflahertys.ie Whether you visit O'Flaherty's for our delicious carvery, a night out with friends or to catch live sport screens you are sure to on our big sc have a memorable time and why not have a nightcap around the roaring fire in Brady's Bar! Slinte.
THE WILTON
Cork City 021 4344454 / wiltonpub.ie Long established on Leeside with fine food served all day in the lounge bar and upstairs in our Loft Restaurant. The Wilton is a must on your next visit W to Cork. Don't forget to leave room for our famous homemade, brown bread ice cream!
We are now accepting your old Punts as payment for food or Drinks!!
booked months in advance and you need the powers of Uri Geller to snag a place at a sacred tasting menu table. If tasting menus are your thing, youll love the citys new breed of super-exclusive chefs table restaurants, where the diners are few and the list of dishes is endless. Here, a host of ambitious chefs are leaving simpler dishes behind and pouring their culinary energies into creating extravagant, omakase-style tasting dinners (that means the chef SOCIAL selects the dishes for you). And its all happening SOUP in Brooklyn. Dining For a lunch outing like no other, trends used to migrate join hundreds of other hungry New from Manhattan Yorkers for a hearty bowl of soup and out to the wilds some crusty bread served in the lofty, al of Brooklyn, but fresco setting of the high line, left, for just these days its the $7. Follow @highlinenyc on Twitter to find other way around. out when the next social soup outing will Brooklyn Fare is a take place. Or go anytime and feast from slick 21st-century the array of artisan food stalls that are gourmet grocery dotted along this elevated public beef and broccoli. To finish store, Dean & DeLuca parkway. thehighline.org its a selection of homemade style, but with an added cookies. It may sound ordinary special something namely but it couldnt be further from it. the three-Michelin-star Chefs The ingredients are exquisite, and Table at Brooklyn Fare (200 the presentation is pared-back Schermerhorn Street, +1 718 243 The Highline, perfection. The folks at Michelin above, a mile-long 0050; brooklynfare.com). Here Csar have awarded it a star for 2013 and park on an old Ramirez serves up a 20-course, $225 freight line that extravaganza to 18 lucky diners critics have been bending themselves snakes above perched on high stools around a out of shape over the 20-course, Manhattan; left, $150 tasting menu offered to only central kitchen-cum-stage. Gastro produce at Union a handful of diners each evening. Square Farmers highlights include the likes of frizzled Needless to say tables have to be market. blowfish tails touched with saffron,
78 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Clockwise from top left, a Tertulia dish, gutsy Spanish food; Red Farm chef Joe Ng serves up contemporary Chinese food; New Yorker Taylor Fattoross shops at Union Square Farmers Market; Serag Shikos food truck.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 79
Clockwise from top left, stallholder Gerardo Sarabio Philips at the Union Square market; Jamaican food at Miss Lilys; New Yorker Ethan Russell; Donggi Lees Seo kyung food truck.
rose-coloured lobster claws paired ingeniously with bits of grapefruit and little thimblefuls of smoked brandade buried under drifts of smoky truffles flown in from Italy. Bookings can be made a minimum of six weeks in advance for parties of two or four people only. While around the Brooklyn block, another 12-seater private dining room, Blanca (261 Moore Street, +1 646 703 2715; blancanyc.com) is also setting the New York gastro-grapevine alight. Brought to you by the team behind legendary pizza place, Robertas, Blanca, at 93sqm, offers an airier and more informal dining experience than Brooklyn Fare, and a more affordable one at $180 per person. But the 20-odd course tasting menu is every bit as impressive, albeit more down-to-earth. Think: house-made prosciutto accompanied by a goat milk granita piled high with Russian caviar, Japanese sweet potatoes with a dab of buttermilk and watercress juice, courses of horse mackerel, soft-shell crab and perch, finishing off with chef Carlo Mirarchis deeply aged meats and cheese. Bookings can
only be made by phone, a minimum of four weeks in advance. Refreshingly though, alongside this trend for extravagant tasting menus and exclusive, impossibleto-get-into-dining-rooms, a vibrant counter-current is sweeping the city a one that champions informal eateries offering a fresh take on ethnic eating. Irish restaurateur John Farrell (the man behind Dublins Dillingers, The Butcher Grill, 777 and the soon-to-open Super Miss Sue) travels to New York regularly. Ive always had a hard time eating out in New York; there are just too many great places to choose from. At the moment Im loving the citys take on contemporary Chinese food, Red Farm [529 Hudson Street, +1 212 792 9700; redfarmnyc.com] in the West Village is one of the hottest menus in town. The best things here are chef Joe Ngs playful dim sum creations, such as the 'Pac man' dumplings, The Katzs pastrami egg roll, and the pan-fried lamb dumplings. For modern Mexican it has to be El Toro Blanco [257 6th Avenue, +1 212 645 0193; eltoroblanco.tumblr.com] also in the West Village, and for the best pizza youve ever tasted, make the trip to Robertas Pizza [261 Moore Street, +1 718 417 1118; robertaspizza.com] in Brooklyn. I also love Danji [346
80 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
West 52nd Street, +1 212 586 2880; danjinyc.com] west of Midtown, for its contemporary take on Korean fare bulgogi, kimchee, kalbi its all I want to eat at the moment. Farrell plans to bring some of this NYC magic home with the opening of his Airstream diner on Dublins Georges Street in April. New Yorks food critics and bloggers cant get enough of these global gourmet outposts where prices are pocket-friendly and flavours are fiesty. The New York Times loves Maharlika Filipino Moderno (111 1st Avenue, +1 646 392 7880; maharlikanyc.com) in the East Village for its Sizzling sisig a heap of finely chopped pig ears, snout and belly, whose tricky bits have been grilled, boiled, then fried into submission. While the lads at Urban Daddy favour hip Jamaican jerk hut, Miss Lilys in the East Village (132 West Houston Street, +1 646 588 5375; misslilysnyc.com) which they describe as a Club Med for fashion week models, but swear theyre really there for the famous fried plantains, fiery jambalaya and cold Caribbean beer. Interestingly, the Irish are also making waves in this arena, but not with a crubeen and coddle hut, youll be glad to hear. Instead talented Irish chef Seamus Mullen (who earned his culinary stripes in Gramercy Parks Boqueria) opened Tertulia (359 6th Avenue, +1 646 559 9909;
tertulianyc.com) in the West Village to rave reviews. This rustic, Spanishstyle gastro pub, reminiscent of the sidreras of northern Spain, serves up endless small plates of food rich in pork fat and good olive oil, pungent with salt and garlic and scented with wood smoke and paprika. Dishes such as paella de mariscos and hearty chuleton (40-day aged prime rib) are cooked in traditional style over an enormous open hearth and New
York foodies just cant get enough of it. Critic Ryan Sutton sums it up by saying: At 11pm on a Friday night, theres still a wait because this is where Manhattan is eating right now. Rightly so. Ol, Seamus.
aer lingus flies from Dublin to new york daily, and from Shannon to new york, Tue, Thur and Sat.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 81
ADVERTORIAL
The Route
Toulouse to Carcassonne (105km, 1h 7m) Carcassonne to Srignan (91km, 56m) Srignan to Aigues-Mortes (100km, 1h 7m) Aigues-Mortes to Arles (46km, 47m, but allow a day for sightseeing in the Camargue) Arles to Salon-de-Provence (45km, 34m) Salon-de-Provence to Aix-en-Provence (37km, 30m) Aix-en-Provence to St Tropez (125km, 1h 45m) St Tropez to Cannes (87km, 1h 13m) Cannes to Nice (32km, 32m) TOTAL DISTANCE: 674 km TOTAL TIME: 8.4 hours
82 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
ADVERTORIAL
FIVE OTHER GREAT ROAD TRIPS MADE SIMPLE WITH HERTZ AND AER LINGUS
Orlando to Miami and back Drive from the theme park capital of the world and visit Daytona, Cape Canaveral, Sebastian Inlet, Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale and Miamis hip resort, South Beach. Stop off at Sawgrass Mills the sixth largest mall in the US, with over 300 factory outlet stores returning on the Florida Turnpike. The Romantic Road, Germany One of Europes loveliest drives. Fly to Frankfurt, pick up your car and head for historic Wrzburg, magnificently restored after near annihilation in the Second World War. Highlights include Rothenburg ob der Tauber, the chocolate-box town that is one of Germanys best-preserved medieval treasures; the university city of Augsburg; the incredible rococo Wieskirche church, and the showstopping Neuschwanstein Castle. Italian lakes and lagoons Fly to Milan Linate or Malpensa and drive around Lake Como and Lake Garda before spending a few nights in Verona, home of Romeo and Juliet. The worlds busiest open-air opera season runs all summer at the magnificent Roman amphitheatre (this years programme can be found at arena.it). Continue and make a base at Lido di Jesolo, or the campsites near Punta Sabbioni (Marina di Venezia and Union Lido are small towns in themselves) and take the public ferry service to the jewel of the Adriatic Sea, Venice. Highland fling If the brooding scenery around Scotlands Glencoe that featured in last years Bond smash hit, Skyfall, took your fancy, try a loop from Glasgow that includes the bonny banks of Loch Lomond, Oban, Glencoe, Fort William, Loch Ness (careful, now!), Inverness, Culloden, Aberdeen, the Forth Bridge and Edinburgh, the Athens of the North, before returning to Glasgow. Catalan treats Fly into Barcelona and visit the brilliant Port Aventura theme park in Salou (Shambhala, which opened last year, is Europes tallest rollercoaster with a first drop of 78 metres, or 255 feet, and a top speed of 134km/h). See the Roman ruins at Tarragona, the stunning Marian shrine at Montserrat, dAnoia, Gironas Jewish quarter, the Salvador Dal museum in Figueres, and the magnificent beaches of the Costa Brava.
Feeling refreshed, we leave Srignan for Aigues-Mortes, another ancient walled city that was the embarkation point for some of the Crusades. Bedecked in flags, full of cafs and buzzing with life, its a wonderful place to while away a few hours before moving on to the Camargue National Park. Caught in the fork of the Rhone estuary, Europes largest river delta is outstanding and home to lagoons, marshes and wildly beautiful scenery. It is also one of the only places in Europe where you can see wild flamingos. The next stop is Arles associated with Vincent van Gogh then Salon-de-Provence, to visit a brilliant museum dedicated to the visionary, Nostradamus. Aix-en-Provence is the next stop, a beautiful city with tree-lined streets and wonderful markets where you can grab the makings of the best picnic you ever will eat. But this is the south of France and now we have just one destination in mind the Cote dAzur, or French Riviera. We start in St Tropez, made famous by Brigitte Bardot and now host to a parade of celebrities every year hanging out at ritzy clubs such as Nikki Beach. Our budget is more modest, so we wander around the port
trying to guess who has charted the superyachts. But theres only so much bling you can take, so we wander back to the Place des Lices, where young and old men play ptanque, a form of boules, like older, more modest times. From St Tropez, we take the winding coast road to Cannes, where food and drink are surprisingly affordable away from the Croisette, the famous promenade that once a year becomes the focus for the film festival. Finally, we have two nights in Nice. Instead of cassoulet, well be trying the famous salade Nioise, washed down not with Corbires but with local ros wine as we sit on the Promenade des Anglais watching the sun set over the Baie des Anges, the Bay of Angels. The car is parked and we may take it out tomorrow and drive to Monaco, or Eze-sur-Mer, or even into Italy to visit Ventimiglia or San Remo. Or maybe we wont. What weve learned here is that hiring a car gives us the freedom not only to do what we want but also to do nothing if we choose. Its there if we need it and we really dont need it until we drive to Nice Airport on Saturday. For now, all that matters is food, family and fun.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 83
being there
Faro
I
n ... i s r U O h 48
A deserted island, kayaking, easy shopping, ace Portuguese seafood and late bars await in Faro, writes Bruno Filipe Pires.
ts rather ironic that the thousands of sun-seekers, holidaymakers and golfers who land in the Algarve every year simply skip Faro on their way to everywhere else. If you take the time to explore, youll be surprised at what it has to offer. This is not a large town the population is about 65,000 so you can walk to all the most interesting places. A good place to start is the Museu Municipal de Faro. It has more than 13,000 artefacts, including Roman statues, Moorish vases and Renaissance paintings, and the building itself, a beautiful 16th-century former convent, is reason enough to visit. Shopping is easy: the pedestrianised Rua de Santo Antnio hosts many of the towns traditional stores and boutiques. If you are after international brands, check out the Forum Algarve mall on the road in from the airport (minibuses run every 15 minutes).
DOnt MiSS For a 30-minute musical journey into fado, traditional Portuguese guitar music, meet local musician and composer Joao Cunha in the old towns exhibition space galeria Arco (Rua Arco, +351 916 434 730). Until late March he will be performing concerts throughout the day from 11am until 4pm; the entrance fee is 5. Despite being burnt down in 1596 by Robert Devereux, the second Earl of Essex, and damaged in an earthquake in 1755, the rebuilt Faro Cathedral is sumptuous (Largo da Se). You can also climb the 68 stairs to the bell tower and fall in love with the view. Kayaking tours around the ria Formosa are great
Above right, Faro Old Town; top, take a boat trip to the secluded Ilha Deserta; left, stunning views from Faro Cathedrals bell tower.
fun. Catch a bus to the beach at Praia de Faro (1.95 each way) and from there head to the sailing club Centro nutico da Praia de Faro (+351 289 870 898) beginners can buy a first lesson for as little as 3. Then, you can rent a kayak for two hours (2) and enjoy the marvellous scenery. Afterwards, relax and have a nice hot chocolate at the cosy Aki h Praia Lounge beach bar (+351 919 555 589) next door.
Do not spend 48 hours in Faro without visiting the ilha Deserta (ilha-deserta. com). This rustic islet really is deserted apart from a few fishermens shacks and a wooden cafrestaurant. Take the 35-minute ferry from Porta nova Pier (daily catamaran crossings at 10am, 1.15pm and 4.45pm) and be amazed by the peace, calm, beauty and biodiversity of the Reserva Natural da Ria Formosa at the other end.
84 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Clockwise from left, a fisherman holding a large rock bass; Faro caf culture; Caldeirada de Peixe, aka fish stew; the marina-located Hotel Faro; and the wonderfully Baroque Carmo Church.
SLEEP AT Faro has many accommodation options, with prices ranging from budget to luxury. If youre on a tight budget or want something simple, try the Sleepin Faro Hostel (Largo da Estao 5, +351 289 878 581, sleepinfaro@ gmail.com), popular with backpackers. Opened in September 2011 by three friends who restored this historic house just opposite the railway station, it offers private twin room (12) or a dorm for six or eight people (from 10). If youre looking for more comfort, try the four-star Hotel Eva (Avenida da Repblica, 1, +351 289 001 000; tdhotels.com/eva), which has 121 rooms and 13 suites. It has been well refurbished and is a top choice for VIP visitors and business travellers. Rooms start at 60. EAT AT Fresh fish is a must when eating in the Algarve. Try the local seafood at the small restaurant Vivmar (Rua Comandante Francisco Manuel, 8, +351 916 145 584/6). Beside the quay Portas do Mar, its very easy to spot and now owned by the international boxing champion Bento Algarvio and his wife (mains cost just 7.50). If you want to try local specialties such as the Caldeirada de Peixe (fish stew), Arroz de Lingueiro (razor clams with rice), Feijoada de Buzinas (bean stew with sea-snails) and of course, the Cataplana, nicely done, go to Adega Nova (Rua Francisco Barreto, 24, +351 289 813 433; restauranteadeganova.com). Less than 50 metres from the central railway is more fine seafood at Taska Sabores Algarvios (Rua do Alportel, 38, +351 289 824 739), and also recommended is Ginsio Clube Naval (Doca de Faro, +351 289 823 434) just behind the marina. DRINK AT Faros Algarve University supports a fairly decent bar scene and while many dont open much before midnight, that wont stop you enjoying a drink at any time of day. Try some late-afternoon cocktails at the Columbus Bar (Rua Dom Francisco Gomes, +351 9177 6222; barcolumbus.pt) set in a 500-year-old former hospital. Later on check out live music and karaoke bar Che60 (Rua do Prior, 24, +351 9311 94314).
Also close to the marina and town centre is the contemporary Hotel Faro (Praa. Dom Francisco Gomes 2, +351 289 830 830; hotelfaro.pt) last year, local alternative band Mudo as Maria performed a special concert in room 101. It has 90 rooms and three suites and even if you dont stay here, a visit to its panoramic rooftop restaurant and bar is a must. A twin room costs from 68 during low season.
In contrast, dont miss Os Artistas (Rua do Montepio, 10, +351 289 822 988), a popular intellectual meeting point since 1906, while at nightclub Cidade da Msica (Rua do Prior, 21-23, +351 289 826 163; cidadedamusica.pt) you can party all night long. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Faro, Tue, Thu and Sat, from Shannon, a new route commences May 1, Wed and Fri, from Cork, Tue, Thur, Sat and Sun, and from Belfast daily.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 85
Ballinacurra House|Kinsale|Co. Cork|Ireland Tel: 00 353 (0)21 477 9040|Fax: 00 353 (0)21 477 9071 E-Mail: info@ballinacurra.com
www.ballinacurra.com
TRINITY COLLEGE
NS TR
GRA
27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 (01) 675 9744 www.celticwhiskeyshop.com INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING
Like us on Facebook at Celtic-Whiskey-Shop-WinesOn-The-Green
DAW SO
N ST RE
&
EET
FTO
ET
Mon repos, once the summer residence of the Greek Royal family, is the birthplace of Britains Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh. Located in Garitsa Bay, its now ThE PAlAIoPolI MuSEuM of Ionian treasures, hidden in a forest of tropical plants and surrounded by Roman baths, ancient temple ruins and the oldest church in Corfu Town. (+30 26610 41369)
An Insiders Guide to
Its easy to escape the madding crowds on an island ripe with history and natural beauty, says Irish-Greek native Lia Manesi.
corfu
For respite from the tourist beaches, take a day boat trip to be the peacefully remote island of ErIkouSSA on the north west coast. Er There are golden sands, shower Th facilities for campers, one hotel fa Hotel Erikoussa (hotelerikoussa.gr) Ho and a mere 20 inhabitants.
PHOTOGRAPH BY B. METALLINOS
Built in the 19th century for the services of the British Governor, the Palace of St Michael and St George has housed the corfu MuSEuM of ASIAN ArT since 1926. Its important and rare collection includes Samurai armour, Indian miniatures and Chinese ceramics, while one wing is reserved for local artist exhibitions. (+30 26610 30443)
EASTEr wEEk is a constant co procession of litanies lita accompanied by colourfully dressed priests pr and brass bands marching mar throughout the old town. At precisely 11am on Easter Saturday pottery po is thrown out of the th windows; at midnight fireworks fir go off and, on Easter East Sunday, a lamb spit spi in Esplanade Square marks mark the end of Lent.
Named after its shape, the MouSE ISlANd and VlAchErNA, its tiny little white-washed church, are highlights.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 87
bEING THERE
The ACHILLEION PALACE, in the village of Gastouri, was built by Empress Sissy of Austria who lavishly decorated it with statues and paintings inspired by ancient Greece. It is thus a journey into the world of Greek mythology, enhanced by the enchanting views of the surrounding hills and coastline. (achillion-corfu.gr)
The shops in the UNESCO-protected CORFu OLD TOWN stay open all day every day, offering local products. For a good selection of leather bags or leather coats, check out the Spilia area. For silverware, head to the small Jewish quarter, for handmade sandals, jewellery and lace, try St Spyridons Street. bIOPOROS, a family-run organic farm situated on Lake Corission is a great place for bird watching. The restaurant serves freshly baked homemade food and natural produce. Visitors may watch or participate in the seasonal farming activities, while cookery courses are organised in both Greek and English. (bioporos.gr)
For those wanting to stay downtown, the ideal hotel is the Arcadion. It is in th Arcadio the heart of the old Ve Venetian tia to town and overlooks rlooks the Esplanade Square, the Old Fort and the Liston arcades (rooms from 70; arcadionhotel.com). And for a very special evening, the CAVALIERI HOTEL ROOF GARDEN, above, is the place to be cocktails, gourmet food and a breathtaking view of Corfu Town. (cavalieri-hotel-corfu-town.com)
Albanians once braved the currents and the communist naval patrol to swim across to AGIOS STEFANOS, their closest point to Corfu and to freedom. Here youll find a wonderful variety of jewellery, olive wood and pottery handcrafts in the tourist shop at the top of the steps, and refreshing cappuccino freddo (iced coffee) on the sea front.
Known as the musical island, Corfu boasts three isl main PHILHARMONIC ma bANDS that compete in bA open-air performances in op the main squares and march th through towns on festive days. th Concerts are also regularly Co held at the Ionian Academy, he the Old Fort and the Duomo th (Catholic Cathedral). (C
88 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
A cosy Italian restaurant & extensive wine bar. 14-16 South Frederick Street, D2. Tel: +353 (1) 6759892 11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, D4. Tel: +353 (1) 6673252
www.dunneandcrescenzi.com
Traditional Italian trattoria restaurant. 26 Lower Ormond Quay, D1. Tel: +353 (1) 8741000 Mayor Square, IFSC, D1. Tel: +353 (1) 6702887
www.baritalia.ie
A workshop of cutting edge Italian food. Town Square, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 18. Tel: +353 (1) 216 6764 Unit 35, Kildare Village, Co. Kildare. Tel: +353 45 535850
www.officina.ie
Dunne and Crescenzi has changed the way the Irish eat Tom Doorley, The Irish Times.
Radisson blu St Helens Hotel, Stillorgan Rd, Dublin 4 St. Patricks Weekend: Fri 15th Mon 18th March 2013 & Killyhevlin Hotel, Enniskillen Easter Weekend: Sat 30th March Mon 1st April 2013
InFlight
For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including The Master (pictured), turn to pages 96 and 97.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 91
WelcomeAboard
For your comfort and safety
Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the Fasten Seat Belts sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight. Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.
and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.
initial climb/aPProach lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in Flight mode, devices with Blackberry technology with Flight/Flight Safe mode
intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.
92 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board T thas ar Aer Lingus filte ar bord a chur romhat
Food and bar service
A new range of food items including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.
T suil
h Aer Lingus. t flight. Thank you for choosing to fly wit san plea and able fort com a e hav you e We hop le hAer Lingus. agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal ach mh nea tait h dac por com s tura onn againn go mb
micreaceallair agus/n fotaichill; cluaisn chnta (glasanna digiteach san ireamh); glaoir (gleacadin amhin); sadair.
bhFuIL ceAdAIthe Le LInn don eItLen bheIth AG GLuAIseAcht Ar tALAmh/AG Ir de thALAmh/ AG tAbhAIrt FAoIn dreApAdh tosAIGh/ AG drI Ar thuIrLInGt/ AG tuIrLInGt: Romhair gline le tiomntn dlthdhiosca (CD ROM) n diosca digiteach ilside (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. ireamhin limhe gan phrintiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir
minicocht raidi daon turas. Silscalaithe. Bragan chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhstaispena le feadin ga-chatadideacha. Trealamh romhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printir PC. Schrbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadin Minidisk at sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadin digiteacha agus iad ag athscrobh dlthdhiosca. Steirnna iniompartha. Raidinna pca (AM/ FM). Glacadiri teilifse. Trealamh teilimadrach. N cheadatear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a sid. Is fidir romhair gline a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a sd le linn na heitilte ar choinnoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi rir na srianta a bhaineann le hsid romhhair gline (thuas luaite).
Smoking In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. tobAc De rir rialachin Rialtas na hireann, t polasai i rim ar eitilt Aer Lingus nach gceadatear tobac a chaitheamh. N cheadatear daon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitlen ag aon am.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 93
AerLingusNews
A
2012 A
A Trophy yeAr for Aer Lingus
ma nager, John ropean sales est Aer Lingus eu e award for B th s pt ce ac , of the Keogh, right Javier M oral m fro pe ro Awards . Airline to eu ssy at the iT Tn spanish em ba
er Lingus continued its winning ways throughout 2012. The airline scooped the Best Airline to Europe Award for the fourth year in a row and joint winner in the Best Airline to North America category at the Irish Travel Trade News Awards. The 21st Anniversary Awards ceremony was held in the Burlington hotel in Dublin. In December, the companys Strategic Sourcing Team were victorious at The National high Flier Procurement Awards, winning in the Innovation Were delighted to in Private Procurement announce that Cara category and the magazine won Customer Procurement Leader Magazine of the year 2012 accolade went to, Kieron at the irish Magazine Byrne, Aer Lingus director of strategic sourcing. Awards in december. The Aer Lingus Annual Report 2011 secured first place in the Small/Medium Quoted Companies category at the Published Accounts Awards, held at the Shelbourne Hotel in Dublin recently. The awards recognise excellence in financial reporting.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
er Lingus is constantly looking for new products that will enhance our customers experience. Here is just a taste of whats to come. With the installation of Wi-Fi underway on the long-haul fleet, Aer Lingus will soon provide customers on its European network with the same facility. The new in-cabin internet access will be available on Aer Lingus short-haul aircraft from mid-2013 offering our customers the fastest and most advanced airborne internet access. The Sky Deli PreOrder Meal option is the latest initiative in a series of new products and is in direct
pictured recently at the launch of the pre-order Meal service were, from left, cabin crew member, sarah-Jane Bennett, darren Wright of Wrights deli and Aer Lingus Chief Commercial officer, stephen Kavanagh.
response to customer feedback. The tasty meal options available for pre-order include an All Day Irish Breakfast and two fresh and delicious salads, Chicken Noodle or Seared Beef, all for just 7.50. The new salad
options were developed in partnership with local Irish supplier, Wrights Deli. Customers on shorthaul flights who wish to enjoy their quality meal on board can now preorder up to 90 days in advance of travel.
Aer Lingus recently signed an agreement with Virgin Atlantic under which it will lease four of its short-haul aircraft to operate flights on behalf of Virgin from London Heathrow to Manchester, Edinburgh and Aberdeen. It is intended that operations will commence on 31 March 2013 and aircraft will be painted in Virgin colours.
94 |
AerLingusNews
Pictured at the launch of the Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival at GAA headquarters, Croke Park, were Aer Lingus cabin crew, Claire Sutton, and Laura McCabe and All Star Players representing their counties, Galway Joe Canning & Fergal Moore; Kilkenny Brian Hogan; Tipperary Shane McGrath; Clare Brendan Bulger; Cork Shane ONeill; Waterford Kevin Moran.
find us on fAcebook!
Aer Lingus has recently launched its official Facebook page @ www.facebook.com/aerlingus. Over the past number of months, we at Aer Lingus have been nurturing our social media presence. In addition to Facebook, we have launched profiles on addi Instagram, Pinterest, and Tumblr along with our Ins Youtube channel. In addition to this, our YouTube Yout channel and LinkedIn page have been updated. chann Well soon be open for business on Twitter our aim is to use these channels of communication to engage with customers to improve the level of service that we can offer, by providing information on new and existing products and sharing positive news stories exis about Aer Lingus. So, be sure to log on and like our Facebook page now!
Aer Lingus recently announced that for the second year running it will partner with Graeme McDowell and his charity, The G-Mac Foundation, to bring children recovering from illness and their families on a trip of a lifetime to Orlando, Florida in spring. The children are patients of the Cardiac Unit at Our Ladys Childrens Hospital, Crumlin.
Graeme McDowell, pictured with some of the children and crew who took part in last years trip to Orlando.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 95
Movies
argO
Drama (R) StarS Ben Affleck, Alan Arkin, Bryan Cranston, John Goodman
SmaSheD
Drama (R) StarS Megan Mullally, Aaron Paul, Octavia Spencer, Mary Elizabeth Winstead
aLex CrOSS
Thriller (PG 13) StarS Tyler Perry, Matthew Fox, Edward Burns, Jean Reno, Rachel Nichols
parIS maNhattaN
Comedy (NR) StarS Alice Taglioni, Patrick Bruel, Marine Delterme, Woody Allen,
the OraNgeS
Comedy (R) StarS Hugh Laurie, Leighton Meester, Catherine Keener, Adam Brody, Oliver Platt
Death Of a SuperherO
Drama (NR) StarS Andy Serkis, Aisling Loftus, Michael Mc Elhatton, Sharon Horgan
arBItrage
Mystery (R) StarS Richard Gere, Susan Sarandon, Tim Roth
the SeSSIONS
Drama (R) StarS William H. Macy, Helen Hunt, John Hawkes
WreCk It raLph
Animation (PG) vOICeS Of John C. Reilly, Jane Lynch, Sarah Silverman
To celebrate the gatherINg IreLaND 2013 Aer Lingus presents Irish feature Death Of a SuperherO from director Ian FitzGibbons (Paths to Freedom, Moone Boy). This poignant coming-of-age story has won a slew of awards worldwide.
96 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Movies
the MaSter
Drama (R) StarS Philip Seymour Hoffman, Joaquin Phoenix and Amy Adams
the SaPPhireS
Musical (PG 13) StarS Chris ODowd, Jessica Mauboy, Deborah Mailman, Eka Darville
the worDS
Mystery (PG 13) StarS Bradley Cooper, Zoe Saldana, Jeremy Irons, Dennis Quaid, Olivia Wilde
Bernie
Comedy (PG 13) StarS Jack Black, Shirley MacLaine, Matthew McConaughey
looPer
Action (R) StarS Joseph GordonLevitt, Bruce Willis, Emily Blunt, Paul Dano, Piper Perabo
Butter
Comedy (R) StarS Jennifer Garner, Hugh Jackman, Olivia Wilde
10 yearS
Comedy (PG 13) StarS Marty Bowen, Reid Carolin, Wyck Godfrey, Channing Tatum
enD of watch
Drama (R) StarS Jake Gyllenhaal, Michael Pea, Anna Kendrick, America Ferrera
liBeral artS
Comedy (PG 13) StarS Josh Radnor, Elizabeth Olsen, Richard Jenkins, Elizabeth Reaser
taKen 2
Thriller (PG 13) StarS Liam Neeson, Maggie Grace, Famke Janssen
Silence
Drama (G) StarS Eoghan MacGiolla Bhrde, Hilary OShaughnessy, Andrew Bennett Patrick OConnor, Michael Harding To celebrate the gathering irelanD 2013 Aer Lingus presents Irish feature Silence; a film that is both haunting and starkly beautiful in its depiction of the Irish landscape. Also dont miss the documentary on Liam Clancy.
hotel tranSlyvania
Animation (PG) voiceS of Adam Sandler, Selena Gomez, Kevin James, Steve Buscemi, Cee-Lo Green
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 97
Television
Moone Boy The Gathering: Homeward Bound
ON DEMAND
On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Dont miss the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle and Kids programmes.
Im a Creepy Crawly
Documentary highlights include the award-winning Supernatural, Aurora Fire in the Sky and Hummingbirds Jewelled Messengers and from National Geographic Great Migrations and Bugatti Super Car. A Day In The Life looks at the life of Will.i.am. To celebrate The Gathering do not miss two episodes of The Gathering: Homeward Bound which sees two Irish stars return to their roots. Movie Talk gets up-close and personal with Brendan Gleeson. Gay Byrne talks to Colin Farrell in The Meaning of Life. Ballybrando and Tracks and Trails conclude the schedule.
LIFESTYLE HIGHLIGHTS
Lifestyle highlights include Americas Next Top Model, Grand Designs, Jamies 15 Minute Meals, HSBC Golfing World, The Jo Whiley Music Show, Show Me Your Wardrobe, Planet Rock Profiles, Extreme Sailing, Hubertus Hunt On Safari Through the Urban Jungle, Concert for Aung San Suu Kyi (Electric Burma), a music documentary to mark the historic visit of the Burmese leader to Dublin, featuring performances from Bono, Bob Geldof and Riverdance. Dont miss Ireland in Song and Other Voices Best of Irish a music show produced exclusively for Aer Lingus to celebrate The Gathering.
Shake It Up
KIDS HIGHLIGHTS
TEENS can view Glee, Shake It Up and Zeke and Luther and younger kids will love Irish animation Im A Creepy Crawly and Fluffy Gardens, as well as Irish cooking show Grubz Up and Phineas and Ferb from Disney.
Dexter
Sherlock Wallander starring Kenneth Branagh returns for a third series with three thrilling investigations set in Ystad, Sweden and Riga, Latvia. Elegantly filmed and brilliantly acted, this series of Wallander builds on the dramas reputation, offering intriguing new stories. All three episodes are available On Demand. HBO brings you brand new Drama in The Newsroom with six episodes available to view from Season 1. This Golden Globe-nominated drama takes a behind-the-scenes look at the life of a news anchor and his staff. HBO Drama also available OnDemand is the first three episodes of Season 3 of the critically acclaimed and award-winning Boardwalk Empire. Steve Buscemi stars in this award-winning drama series that charts the continued rise of organised crime at the dawn of Prohibition in Atlantic City, New Jersey. HBO presents the first five episodes of Season 2 from the astonishingly popular and groundbreaking Game of Thrones. Five kings vie for a single, all-powerful throne in the all-new season of the hit series.
DRAMA HIGHLIGHTS
As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers an engaging choice of drama TV with multiple episodes available from the latest Drama from the US and UK. There are also one-off episodes to select from, watch out for Treme, The Good Wife and brand new Drama starring Lucy Liu (based on Sherlock) in Elementary. The multi award-winning super series Sherlock is back for series 2 and all 3 episodes are available onboard. Sherlock and Watson return to face the ultimate test in three
of their most famous cases. With beguiling performances, and some of the most intriguing characters ever created, its no wonder that Sherlock has proven to be a worldwide success. While Dexter fans excitedly wait for Season 7, you can view 5 intriguing episodes from Season 6. Dexter stars Michael C. Hall in his Golden Globe award-winning role as Dexter Morgan, a complicated and conflicted bloodspatter expert for the Miami police department who moonlights as a serial killer. The award-winning drama
98 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Radio
1980s Easy Listening
ON DEMAND
Alternative Classical
Fitzpatrick Hotels
This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatricks is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information fitzpatrickhotels.com. Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.
Indie Hits
Tune into Indie Hits an alternative selection of tunes from bands that have now gained cult status. Featuring Goth legends from the 1980s The Cure, The Cult and The Jesus & Mary Chain. Listen out for Manchesters finest Indie gods The Smiths and The Stone Roses as well as Britpop giants Blur and Oasis. Also tune in to hear hidden gems from US Indie stalwarts REM, Soundgarden and of course the inimitable Pixies.
Pop
Talk Radio
Chart Hits
Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute Pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic. Listen out for your favourite artists in this compilation of smash hits. This exciting compilation of songs features hits from the worlds most successful artists Rihanna, Christina Aguilera and Robbie Williams as well as newcomers to the Pop scene Rita Ora, and Labrinth and X Factor alumni JLS and Leona Lewis.
Roots Freeway
Roots Freeway is presented by music aficionado Niall Toner and is an eclectic mix of Folk Music, Bluegrass, Blues and Roots Music. As well as presenting Roots Freeway, Niall is a songwriter and a musician. In this edition of his show for Aer Lingus he plays a unique selection of country, folk, roots and bluegrass music. Toner returned to RT Radio One on Saturday, December 1st at 11pm where you can also tune in for more.
Best of Moncrieff
Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.
Ceol na nGael
Ceol na nGael is a traditional music programme presented, in Irish, by Sen hanaigh. Sen presents Sruth na Maoile on RT Raidi na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years on air. Ceol traidisinta agus ceol tre den scoth, le Sen hanaigh. For more visit: rte.ie/rnag. Twitter @RTERnaG.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 99
Radio
Traditional Irish Irish
ON DEMAND
Countdown
Documentary On One
Documentary On One is the multiawardwinning radio documentary strand from RT Radio 1 (88-90FM) and the most successful documentary unit in the world. The website contains over 1,000 radio documentaries all freely available to listen/podcast. The documentary featured here is titled Message in a Bottle and tells the story of an American Serviceman who tossed a note in a bottle and threw it overboard it was found in Dingle by Breda OSullivan. What ensued was a media circus as Breda and Frank finally met in Dingle tune in to find out what happened. You can also download the all new and free Documentary on One iPhone and/or Android app. rte.ie/ doconone
Jazz
The Big 10
The Big Ten is produced especially for Aer Lingus as 98FMs Claire Solan counts Irelands 10 Biggest Acts. Join Claire as she recounts the tales behind the biggest musical exports from Ireland and the impact they have had on the music scene globally. For more on Claire and 98FM, check out 98fm.com.
Grace Notes
Grace Notes is presented by Ellen Cranitch of RT lyric fm as she casts the music net wide to capture great performances from the cream of traditional Irish musical talent from around the world. The appeal of traditional music is for many like a story handed down from generation to generation, with each adding their own interpretations. Tune into RT lyric fm every Thursday from 7pm8pm to hear more from Ellen Cranitch and her show Grace Notes.
Kids
Homecoming
Homecoming is a nostalgic mix of famous Irish songs selected especially for The Gathering 2013. Whether you live in Ireland, are coming home to visit relatives and friends or discover your Irish roots these Irish classics are sure to conjure up memories of days gone by. This show represents the cream of the crop of Irish talent from U2, Paddy Reilly, Thin Lizzy to Clannad and The Pogues. Enjoy Homecoming.
Musical Hits
1970s
RT Jr
Join Emma Power and her friends from Emmas Magical Kingdom on RTjr Radio for a fun-packed show to enjoy during your flight! Theres Disney heroes and villains, great Disney music and a little bit of pixie dust added in here and there! RTjr Radio is Irelands only radio station thats just for children. You can tune in on your digital radio, online rte. ie/digitalradio/rtejr, Saorview and on the RT Radio Player on your mobile device to hear more.
Broadway Favourites
Broadway Favourites may tempt you to visit a Broadway show whilst in New York or indeed provide inspiration to tread the boards yourself. This show is a fun collection of memorable songs from the worlds most famous Broadway musicals. Tune in to hear hits from Annie Get Your Gun, The Sound of Music, Singin In The Rain, Guys and Dolls, Carousel and many more. Enjoy!
Jazz Alley
Jazz aficionado Donald Helme explores the legacy and music of pianist and Big Band leader, Count Basie and features performances from classic albums and live concerts. In this RT lyric fm special, Helme celebrates Basies life and music. Take a stroll down Jazz Alley on Wednesday evenings at 7pm on RT lyric fm with Donald Helme, featuring the best in classic and contemporary jazz, focusing on the curious, quirky, obscure and neglected.
100 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
5^aYZS` 5Sef^W
R A I LT O U R S
A Unique and Sylish Irish Gift
First Class!
IRELAND
A FREE APPETISER
for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass
Terms and conditions apply
BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie
Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty Waterford & Kilkenny Cork & Blarney Castle The Giant's Causeway The Ring of Kerry The Aran Islands Connemara & Galway Bay The Wicklow Mountains ONE DAY TOURS TO Blarney Castle NINE DAY TOURS FROM and Gardens DUBLIN
Cliffs of Moher
www.railtoursireland.com
tm
PROFESSIONAL FASHION DESIGN DIPLOMA (3 years full-time) F For or the I Irish rish & I International nternational Clothing T Trade rade &A Associated ssociated Industries. Industries. 1 or 3 month trial fashion design courses for career & educational breaks Sept-May. Also S ept-May. A lso summer holiday day courses in fashion design or dressmaking. Evening and Saturday courses Dressmaking morning courses 6 Herbert Place, Dublin 2 Tel:+353 e 16763653 / 6767940 Email: info@graftonacademy y.com .
wagamama.ie
follow us
/ wagamama ireland
with over 135 cafes around the world, theres always something happening at the hard rock.
12 Fleet Street Temple Bar Dublin 2 Tel: 671 7777 hardrock.com
Wellbeing
Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to all your skin to breathe. Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles. Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness. Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation. We wish you an enjoyable experience.
Carry-on baggage
Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.
AER LINGUS AER LINGUS REGIONAL
10kg
55cm (22ins) 24cm (9ins) (22 lbs) 40cm (16ins)
Maximum weight
48cm (19ins)
Maximum weight
7kg
(15 lbs)
20cm (8ins)
33cm (13ins)
In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10) x 33cm (13) x 20cm (8) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.
Safety brief
We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment. As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.
102 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
RouteMaps
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Helsinki Stockholm Aberdeen Glasgow Edinburgh Copenhagen Kerry Isle of Man Blackpool DUBlIN Manchester London Birmingham HEATHRoW Cardiff Hamburg Berlin Warsaw Amsterdam London Dusseldorf SouTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Frankfurt Jersey Rennes Paris Stuttgart Zurich Geneva Bordeaux Santiago de Compostela Bilbao Toulouse Perpignan Madrid Lisbon Faro Malaga Ibiza Alicante Lyon
LINATE
Munich
Milan
Milan lan
Bucharest
Bourgas
Barcelona Palma
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com
| 103
Edinburgh BELFAST Dublin SHANNON CORK Bristol London Heathrow Jersey Rennes Manchester Birmingham LONdON GATWICK Amsterdam Brussels
Knock
Paris
Munich
Geneva
Nice Rome
Tenerife
FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas France Nice Paris Rennes Germany Munich Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma Switzerland Geneva The Netherlands Amsterdam United Kingdom London Gatwick London Heathrow United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester
FROM GATWICK Ireland Belfast Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)
FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester Portugal Faro
Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick
104 |
Boston
Shannon
Dublin
Orlando
Chicago Orlando
| 105
Minneapolis Milwaukee Omaha ChiCago Des Moines Grand Rapids Detroit Cleveland Dayton on Toronto Buffalo Syracuse Rochester Ro Portland ME Boston
Sacramento San Francisco San Jose Oakland Las Vegas Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego
Wichita
Knoxville
Phoenix
Atlanta Charleston Jacksonville Orlando Tampa Fort Myers West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami
Houston
Aguadilla
FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO new destinations with aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United airlines and aer arann Getting to the uS from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. Now uS, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental uS destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the united States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of united States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at Terminal 2, Dublin airport. This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of uS bound flights to clear uS immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the uS without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. neW York Connecting with JetBlue at JFk: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, simply hop on the Air Train to JetBlues Terminal 5 for your domestic connection. Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. From the end of March 2013 aer Lingus will move operations from terminal 4 at John F. kennedy international airport into JetBlues acclaimed terminal 5, at JFk. all aer Lingus flights from Dublin and shannon will fly into and out of terminal 5, at JFk. Boston Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan international airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. ChiCago Connecting with United airlines at ohare Chicago international airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your uA domestic departure point. Passengers from the uS to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the uA departure point, then exit security in Chicago OHare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin. DUBLin Connecting with aer Lingus regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin airport: Aer Linguss interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final uS destination.
106 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
stockholm
Glasgow
edinburgh
Isle of Man Dublin Shannon kerry Birmingham cardiff Bristol Manchester london
HeaTHrow
Hamburg amsterdam Dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt paris Munich Vienna Berlin warsaw
GaTwIck
Geneva
Malpensa
Milan
lInaTe
Milan
Venice
Marseille
Barcelona
rome naples
Via Dublin with aer lingus alicante amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg london (Gatwick) london (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Marseille Milan linate Milan Malpensa Munich naples palma paris rome santiago de compostela
Via new YoRk with Jetblue aguadilla austin Baltimore Buffalo Burbank Burlington charlotte chicago Denver Fort lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix pittsburg ponce portland Me portland or raleigh-Durham rochester
Via Dublin with aer lingus Regional Bristol cardiff edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man london southend kerry
sacramento salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle syracuse Tampa west palm Beach
Via boSton with Jetblue Baltimore Buffalo chicago Dallas Fort worth Denver Ford lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix
pittsburg portland or raleigh-Durham richmond salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle Tampa washington (Dulles) washington (national) west palm Beach
Via Shannon with aer lingus london (Heathrow) Via Shannon with aer lingus Regional Manchester Birmingham Bristol edinburgh
Via ChiCago with united to uSa atlanta austin charlotte charleston cincinnati chicago cleveland columbus Dallas (Fort worth) Dayton Denver
Des Moines Detroit Fort Myers Grand rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville kansas city knoxville las Vegas lexington los angeles louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis nantucket nashville new orleans oklahoma city omaha orange county phoenix pittsburgh portland or raleigh-Durham rochester sacramento
salt lake city san antonio san Diego san Francisco san Jose santa ana seattle st louis Tampa Tulsa wichita
Via ChiCago with united to Canada calgary edmonton salt lake city Toronto Vancouver winnipeg
| 107
Dublin
Kuala Lumpur
VIa aBU DhaBI tO: Muscat Kuala Lumpur Bahrain Sydney Melbourne Sydney Melbourne
108 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
FlightConnections
FLIGHTS ARRIvING AT TERmINAL 2
FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s
Immigration
Security Check
Terminal 2 Arrivals
If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.
If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.
If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.
Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 109
Florabotanica by Balenciaga
Eau de Parfum - 50ml
A sensory paradox between pure and enigmatic, Florabotanica is a futuristic floral perfume that evokes a fantastical secret garden with magnetic and surprising flowers that surpass imagination. Beautiful but dangerous, enchanting but mysterious, charming but mischievous, Florabotanica is an experimental rose that has the power to endlessly charm. Enchanting, mysterious, beautiful.
Visionnaire 30ml
by Lancme
Much more than a wrinkle corrector, Visionnaire is the first Lancme advanced skin corrector. Inspired by nature and formulated with a new molecule designed to recreate perfect skin. Skin is visibly transformed, wrinkles, pores and skin imperfections are corrected. Visionnaire was tested on four different complexions with optimal tolerance even on the eye contour.
Sky Shopping
Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items at reduced prices onboard during February/March.
W e v e
got it all
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
| 111
trip of a lifetime
Unlike his novel Cloud Atlas now a film time stands still for David Mitchell on Corks Cape Clear.
my sense of symmetry. My friend and I got off the Skibbereen bus and onto the small ferry at Baltimore and, as soon as the captain had finished his sandwich, we were off. It had been raining solidly since wed left Cork that morning, but as we skirted Sherkin Island the skies were miraculously clearing, and we moored at Cape Clear under one of those oh-so-rare cloudless Irish afternoons so golden, so silver that you see the blue in the green. We dumped our stuff at the hostel and went exploring. Nothing life-changing happened to us: in fact nothing happened at all, which is how you can always tell that youve stumbled upon a toe-hold of Paradise on Earth. I remember narrow lanes with lush grass growing along the middle; sea-birds in giddying numbers; the blades of a wind-turbine catching the sun; a stone tower, apparently transported block by block from a Yeats poem, but which turned into an old lighthouse closer up; two standing stones
aving promised to write about a momentous trip for Cara, I find Im in trouble: Ive had no sightings of the Virgin Mary on a Spanish pilgrimage, no near-death brush with a grizzly in an Alaskan wasteland and no UFO sighting in the Australian outback. Travel has dented my general ignorance of the world, but each time the Me who comes home is pretty much the same Me who set out. So I am writing about an overnight stay at Cape Clear Island, off Co Cork in the south-west of Ireland during the summer of 1997 not because my life was changed by it, but because of a promise I made there that would, several years later, nudge my life in a certain direction. My reasons for visiting Cape Clear Island were Quixotic: Id spent a few months travelling from the Okinawa Islands off the east of the Eurasian land-mass and the idea of finishing up on an island off the west of the continent appealed to 112 |
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
Cape escape, above, a rugged vista from the island thats just a short ferry ride from Baltimore; above, right, author David Mitchell going native back in the 1990s.
from an old legend, the lege smaller with smal a hole in the middle; buying buyi baked beans bake and a loaf of soda-bread from a little shop and noticing the Corkonian suffix so at the end of sentences. I remember following a hand-made sign saying Homemade Ice Creams down a drive and only afterwards realising that the gentleman who had served us at the door was blind. (Two years later I used his house as a location in my first novel; if anyone reading this knows the owner, please thank him for me. His ice cream was excellent.) I remember dozing by a small tarn and thinking if peace was a place, Id found it, right there, that day. In the pub that evening I drank my first pint of Murphys Corks creamier, peatier answer to Guinness and heard my first phrases of Irish. My friend and I walked back to the hostel under a night sky dripping with stars that swarmed and multiplied even as you watched. Sure I was a little tanked, but I promised myself that, if I ever had the chance, one day Id live nearby. It turned out to be one of the promises I kept: a few years later that selfish young backpacker became a dad and we needed somewhere to live. Thanks to that trip to west Cork, my family and I have lived just 40 minutes drive from Baltimore harbour since 2003. My point is that you dont necessarily need to travel to the other end of the world to reach a life-changing experience. Sometimes one is waiting for you at the bottom of the lane, or on a small island, not far away at all.
Cloud Atlas (Sceptre, 7.99) is David Mitchells third novel. The film version (15A) stars Tom Hanks, Halle Berry and Hugh Grant, and opens in Irish cinemas on February 22.
Book online at www.guinness storehouse.com and get 10% off adult tickets.
Guinness Storehouse, St Jamess Gate, Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800
The GUINNESS and GUINNESS STOREHOUSE words and associated logos are trademarks. (c) Guinness & Co. 2013