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YOUNG MEN'S SIZES (men under 35 with an athletic

A size chart for overgarments, trousers, casual wea


standard body No size 88 92 96 A CHEST 88 92 96 B SEAT 90 94 98 C WAIST 70 74 78 D LOW WAIST (4cm below natural 73 waist) 77 81 E-F HALF BACK 18.5 19 20 G-H NATURAL WAIST LENGTH 43.4 44 44 G-I SCYE DEPTH 22 23 24 J NECK SIZE 37 38 39 K-L SLEEVE LENGTH - one piece 63.6 sleeve 64 65 E-M SLEEVE LENGTH - two piece79 sleeve 80 81 N-O INSIDE LEG 78 79 80 P-Q BODY RISE 26.8 27 27 R CLOSE WRIST MEASUREMENT 16.4 17 17 measurements 100 104 100 104 102 106 82 86 85 89 20 21 45 45 24 26 40 41 65 66 82 83 81 82 28 28 18 18

A size chart for shirts

standard body measurements No size 88 92 96 100 104 J NECK (COLAR SIZE) 37 38 39 40 41 A CHEST 88 92 96 100 104 G-I SCYE DEPTH 22 23 24 24 26 G-H NATURAL WAIST LENGTH 43.4 44 44 45 45 E-F HALF BACK 18.5 19 20 20 21 G-M SLEEVE LENGTH (for shirts) 86 87 88 89 89 SHIRT LENGTH 76 78 80 80 80 CUFF SIZE FOR SHIRTS 22 23 23 23 23

er 35 with an athletic figure) trousers, casual wear

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CASUAL JACKET BLOCK


No A G-I G-H J E-F Measurement CHEST SCYE DEPTH NATURAL WAIST LENGTH NECK SIZE HALF BACK JACKET LENGTH
Vareis by jacket design

100CM CHEST

basic 100 24.4 44.6 40 20 70 A 1cm seam allowance is included in the block except where stated no seam allowance. There is no hem allowance. There is 1cm on the back shoulder.

(see Diagram below)

points 0 to 1 0 to 2 0 to 3 2 to 4 0 to 5 0 to 6 0 to 7 7 to 8 1 to 9 11 to 12 12 to 13 10 to 14 9 to 15 15 to 16 9 to 17 1 to 19 22 to 23 1 to 24 24 to 25 24 to 27 20 to 28 20 to 29 28 to 30 30 to 31 31 to 32

calculation 27.4 45.6 71.0 21.0 13.2 6.6 8.5 2.0 22.0 2.0 2.0 1.5cm 5.6 0.5 2.5 57.5 2.0 33.8 5.9 2.5 8.0 9.0 you measure 1.8 you measure

description
square across square across square across square across square out square out square up draw in neck curve square up to 10 and 11 square out join 8 to 13 with a curved line

square down to 18 with a dotted line. square up to 20 down to 21 on waistline, 22 on hem line 23 can be joined to any back style seam half the measurement of point 9 to point 24 minus 1 cm. square down to 26. Square up 2.5cm from point 24 mark front pitch (FP) See diagram Join 28 to 11 draw in neck curve the measurement 8 to 13 inus 0.5cm. Join 30 to 27 with a dotted line join 28 to 31 measure point 31 to point 27 then divide by 3. mark point 32... 2/3rds down from point 31

Draw in armhole, shape through points 13,14,16, 25, 27, 31 curve inwards 2cm at point 32. A one piece or two piece sleeve can be drafted for this block

DIAGRAM

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BASIC OVERGARMENT BLOCK


CHEST SCYE DEPTH NATURAL WAIST LENGTH NECK SIZE HALF BACK COAT OR JACKET LENGTH

Based on 100CM CHEST


100 24.4 44.6 40 20 100

VARIES WITH STYLE

points 0 to 1 0 to 2 0 to 3 2 to 4 0 to 5 0 to 6 0 to 7 7 to 8 1 to 9 11 to 12 12 to 13 10 to 14 9 to 15 15 to 16 1 to 17 19 to 20 1 to 21 17 to 22 9 to 23 25 18 to 26 18 to 27

calc 28.9 46.1 101.0 21.0 13.2 6.6 11.0 2.0 23.0 2.0 2.0 1.5 6.4 0.5 60.0 2.0 35.6 12.2 7.3 2.5 9.5 9

description Square across Square across Square across Square across Square across Square out Square up Draw in neck curve Square up to 10 and 11 Square out Join 8 to 13 with curved line

Square up to 18, down to 19 on hem line. 20 can be joined to any back style seam

Square down to 24 Square up from point 21 mark front pitch point (FP) Join 26 to 11

26 to 28 28 to 29

1.5

29 to 30

Join 18 to 22 with a dotted line. Draw neck curve; construct a dart on the dotted line 1cm wide and 8cm long. measure point 8 to 13 then minus 0.5cm. Join 28 to 25 with a dotted line join 29 to 26 measure 29 to 25, then mark point 30 2/3rds from point 29 Draw in armhole shape through points 13, 14, 16, 23, 25, 29 curve inwards 1.75cm at point 30. Square down to hem line.

9 to 31

2.5

A one-piece sleeve or two-piece sleeve can be drafted for this block

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ONE PIECE SLEEVE BLOCK


Seven main measurements Basic SLEEVE LENGTH (one piece sleeve) Scye measurment (armhole) 65.4 0

100CM CHEST

Total 66.9 see diagram for how to measure scye

1cm has been added to the entirity of this pattern except at the hem. Please study carefully, the diagram at the bottom of this page.
1.) First, trace or copy and paste the top section (above waistline) of the "BASIC OVERGARMENT BLOCK" or the "BASIC CASUAL JACKET BLOCK" (depending on which you are drafting the sleeve for. Please refer to diagram at bottom of the page for more details. 2.) Extend the "SCYE DEPTH LINE" of the body block beyond the center back line. 3.) draw a vertical line through the front pitch point "FP". Where this line intersects the "SCYE DEPTH LINE" Mark point 1 4.) Mark the underarm point as "0"

points 1 to 2 1 to 3

calc 0.0 0.0

description Square across Square across

Where the line crosses the back scye line of the body block mark back pitch point BP. Mark shoulder points 4 & 5. FP to 6 6 to 7 FP to 8 7 to 9 6 to 10 11 to 13 12 to 14 10 to 15 15 to 16 9 to 7 7 to 6 6 to FP FP to 8 11 to 19 The measurement 4-FP measured in a straight line, plus 2cm. Join FP to 6 The measurement 5-BP measured in a straight line plus 1.5cm, join 6 to 7 The measurement FP-0 measured in a curve plus 0.75cm; square down. The measurement BP-0 measured in a curve plus 0.75cm; square down. Square down from 6. 67.9 Square across to 11 & 12 5.0 Join 8-13 5.0 Join 9-14 half measurement 10-14 1.0 Join 10-14 with a curve. Square up 10cm from 16. Draw in outline of sleeve head. Hollow the curve by 0.75cm Raise the curve 1.5cm Raise the curve 2cm at 17 (one third distance of 6-FP), touch the line at 18 (4cm from FP). Holow the curve 0.5cm Half the measurement 8-11 plus 2.5cm; square across

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TWO PIECE SLEEVE BLOCK


Seven main measurements Basic SLEEVE LENGTH (two piece sleeve) Cuff size Scye Measurement Half back 82 29 0 20

100CM CHEST
Total 83.5 33
see measuring a curve in diagram below

1cm has been added to the entirity of this pattern except at the hem. Please study carefully, the diagram at the bottom of this page. Body block markings
1.) First, trace or copy and paste the top section (above waistline) of the "BASIC OVERGARMENT BLOCK" or the "BASIC CASUAL JACKET BLOCK" (depending on which you are drafting the sleeve for. Please refer to diagram at bottom of the page for more details. 2.) Mark Points A & B on the traced body block, Mark C at underarm point. 3.) Mark front pitch point (FP); mark D at the base of the line from FP 4.) Mark points 9 and 14; mark 14 back pitch (BP) Sleeve: Top sleeve
points calc description Mark point 0; square across, up and down. 0 to 1 2.5 FP 0 to 2 / The measurement 9 to BP on body block; square across 0 to 3 1 to 4 4 to 5 0 to 6 7 4 to 8 5 to 9 9 to 10 10 to 11 10 to 12 12 to 13 10 to 14 15 to 16 1.5 / / 2.0 / / 1.5 61.0 / 3.5 18.5 2.0 / 3.0 square across The measurement A to FP measured in a staright line, plus 2cm; join 1 to 4 The Measurement B to BP measured in a straight line, plus 1.25cm; join 4 to 5 Square down with a dotted line. Midway between 5 and 4 1/3rd measurement 4 to 1. Draw in sleeve head through points 5, 4, 1, 6 as shown in diagram

Half measurement 1-10; square across Square across Join 13-10 and 10-14. Join 6-14; curve line inwards 1.5cm at elbow line. Join 5-13 with dotted line; mark 15 on elbow line. Join 5-13 curving the line through point 16.

Sleeve: Under sleeve 0 to 17 2.0 17 to 18 0.5 10 to 19 2.0 0 to 20 / 20 to 21 0.5 21 to 22 / 23 23 to 24 22 to 25 26 / 2.0 1.5

Square down with a dotted line. Join 18-19; curve line inwards 1.5cm at elbow line. The measurement C-D on body block plus 2cm The measurement BP-C measured in a curve plus 0.5cm (21-22 is measured straight to touch the line from 2-5.) Midway between 21 and 22. Draw a curved line through points 22, 24, 21, 18. Midway between 15 and 16; join 25 to 13 with a curved line touching point 26. Extend back seam line 0.5cm above 25 to 27. Extend underarm seam line 0.75cm above 22 to 28. Join 27 to 28.

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CLASSIC SHIRT BLOCK


Seven main measurements Basic NECK SCYE CHEST SCYE DEPTH NATURAL WAIST LENGTH HALF BACK SLEEVE LENGTH FOR SHIRTS SHIRT LENGTH CUFF SIZE 40 100 24.4 44.6 20 89 80 23

100CM CHEST

A 1CM SEAM ALLOWANCE IS INCLUDED IN THE ENTIRE BLOCK EXCEPT FOR THE HEM ON ALL PATTERNS REMEMBER THAT!

BODY SECTON points calc description MARK POINT 0 AND SQUARE BOTH WAYS 0 to 1 28.4 Square across 0 to 2 47.6 Square across 0 to 3 97 Square across 1 to 4 62 Square up to 5 and down to 6 on hem line 0 to 7 7.5 Squareup 7 to 8 4.5 draw in neck curve 0 to 9 7.68 Square out 9 to 10 24 Square down to 11 on scye depth line & up to 12 12 to 13 0.75 Join 8 to 13 with slight curve 10 to 14 10 10 to 15 0.75 join 14 to 15 with slight curve 1 to 16 31.5 Square down to 17 & 18 5 to 19 4.5 Square out 19 to 20 7 Square across 19 to 21 5.5 Draw in neck curve 10 to 22 1.5 Square out 20 to 23 The measurment 8 to 13 plus 0.5cm; join 20 to 23 with slightly curved line. 1 to 24 24 to 25 23 to 26 37.833333 Square up 3cm from 24; join 23 to 25 Half the measurement of 23 to 25

Draw in armhole shape through points 13, 10, 16, 25, 23 curve inwards 1cm at 26. 21 to 27 27 to 28 17 to 29 17 to 30 18 to 31 1.5 3.5cm 2 2 20 Button stand square down facing; square down; shape top edge at neckline

Square across

31 to 32 31 to 33 34 35 34 to 36

1 1

Draw in side seams Midway 6 to 18 Square up Midway 3 to 18

Square across to front edge

Draw shaped curves as shown from 33 to 35 and 32 to 36. If pleats are required at the back yoke line, 9-37 is 2cm; square down.

SLEEVE SECTION Measure the armhole from from back shoulder point through side seams and to front shoulder point see diagram B below for details. You might have to print off the armhole to do this. Please note the measurements below will not work unles the "ARMHOLE SCYE MEASUREMENT" Box is not entered (the default here is based on 100cm chest). ARMHOLE SCYE MEASUREMENT points calc description SQUARE DOWN FROM 0 0 to 1 13.5 Square across 0 to 2 92.0 Minus cuff depth and yoke width (0-13); square across 1 to 3 39.3 Square across 0 to 4 27.0 Square down to 5 0 to 6 27.0 Square down to 7 Divide 0-4 into 4 sections mark points; 8, 9, 10. Divide 0-6 into four sections mark points; 11, 12, 13. Draw in sleeve head; join 4-8, raise 1cm at 9, 2cm at 10, touch point 0, raise 1cm at 11, touch point 12, hollow 1cm at 13, join to 6. 5 to 14 7 to 15 5 to 16 7 to 17 2 to18 18 to 20 7.8 7.8 3.9 3.9 7.8 1.0 54

Join 4 to 16. Join 6 to17 draw in underarm seams as shown Square up 15cm to 19. join 2 to 14 with a curve.

CUFF SECTION CUFF LENGTH: use the cuff size measurement (top of page) and add 4cm. CUFF DEPTH: Choose your cuff depth based on your own design idea. Then add 2cm. Round off bottom edge (hem) of cuff. See diagram for further details. COLLAR SECTION

points

calc

description 4 3

1A BASIC SHIRT COLLAR (see diagram) 1 to 2 20 Collar depth (alter if you wish) 2 to 3 3.75 Stand depth (alter if you wish) 1 to 4 15 1 to 5 9 Square across 1 to 6 4.5 Square across to 7 and 8 8 to 9 1 Join 3-9. 3-10 and 9-11 are 0.75cm. 1-12 is 0.5cm 1 to 12 1B SHIRT COLLAR WITH STAND (see diagram) First copy & paste or Trace basic shirt collar outline 13 Is midway between 6 and 7; 7-14 and 11-15 are 1cm; join 13 to 15 with a curve. Join 14-16 at collar point. Separate collar and stand. Add seam allowance to lines 6-14 and 6-15.

1C SHAPED SHIRT COLLAR WITH STAND (see diagram) First copy & paste or Trace Shirt collar with stand Divide 12-4 into four sections. Shape stand and collar as diagram C Add seam allowance for lines 6-14 and 6-15.

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