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Workshop text and photos B y BRuce KieffeR

Workshop

text and photos B y BRuce KieffeR

Workshop text and photos B y BRuce KieffeR

MATT SPROUSE

King-Size Platform Bed

NiNe drawers add the storage capacity of a dresser without takiNg up additioNal space

capacity of a dresser without takiNg up additioNal space This king-size bed features a royal amount

This king-size bed features a royal amount of space for sleeping and storage. The area typically occupied by a frame and box spring has instead been allocated for drawers — it’s like adding another dresser to your bedroom suite. And the design is adaptable to suit your preferences: You can build it with or without a headboard, and if you want a smaller bed, you can shrink many of the parts and replace the center box and drawer at the foot with a framed panel to create a queen-size version. (Visit HandymanClub.com for a cutting list for the queen-size bed and for in- structions to build the headboard.) Almost any hardwood or softwood would suffice for this project; I used solid white ash and quarter-sawn white ash plywood. Ash is easy to ma- chine, warm-toned, light-colored and relatively cheap compared with other hardwoods. My materials cost about $900; keep in mind that other types of wood may cost more.

$900; keep in mind that other types of wood may cost more. 4 decemB e R

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$900; keep in mind that other types of wood may cost more. 4 decemB e R

decemB e R

2012/janua R y

This is a large project, and not for beginners; completing it requires a moderate amount of woodworking knowledge and skill. You must be able to glue solid-wood pieces to the edges of plywood pieces so they are aligned perfectly flush, and you’ll have to trim drawer faces to fit perfectly in inset openings. (I used my edge sander.) Be prepared to assemble large pieces with help from a friend or family member. I spent 120 hours building this bed. I’m not trying to discourage you; I just want you to know what you’re getting into before you invest a lot of time and money in the project.

ConstruCtion notes

Building this bed requires all of the common woodworking machines, power and hand tools, a pocket-hole drilling jig, at least five 78-in. open- ing pipe clamps, a variety of shorter

2013

bar clamps and a table saw blade with flat ground teeth. (A flat-tooth ripping blade is fine.) You’ll also need these router bits: a top-bearing pattern bit, a 1/2-in. roundover bit and a 1/4-in. roundover bit (see SOURCES). The storage section is made up of seven boxes screwed together: the head box, two drawer boxes, a nar- row drawer box and two corner boxes (at the foot of the bed) with a center drawer box in between. Two deck pan- els are screwed on top of the storage section to complete the platform. This component approach makes building, finishing, transporting and setting up the bed much easier. The bed has five large and four small drawers made from 1/2-in.-thick Baltic birch plywood, a dense multilayer ma- terial that is very stable. It should be available at your local hardwood lumber supplier, or you can buy it online. The

drawer corners are joined with glued and pinned interlocking tongue-and- groove joints. Machining the drawer

drawer corners are joined with glued and pinned interlocking tongue-and- groove joints. Machining the drawer joints for a perfect fit can be difficult, but the strength of the joint is worth the effort. The drawer slides are 1-in. over- travel models, meaning they extend all the way plus an extra inch. They offer complete access to the drawers even though the deck panels overhang the base by 2 in. The drawer faces are at- tached to the drawers with screws so they can be trimmed and adjusted. Keep in mind that when you as- semble the three boxes at the foot of the bed, their cumulative width must be slightly (1/32 in. to 1/16 in.) less than the length of the narrow drawer box. This ensures that the sides of the cor- ner boxes can be aligned flush with the faces of the narrow drawer box. The mitered corners of the stiles (E1) make assembling the two corner boxes the most difficult aspect of construc- tion. I considered just using butt joints,

SHoPPing liSt

 
3/4-in. x 4 x 8-ft. ash plywood (1)

3/4-in. x 4 x 8-ft. ash plywood (1)

3/4-in. x 4 x 8-ft. birch plywood (4)SHoPPing liSt   3/4-in. x 4 x 8-ft. ash plywood (1) 1/2-in. x 5 x 5-ft.

1/2-in. x 5 x 5-ft. Baltic birch plywood (2)8-ft. ash plywood (1) 3/4-in. x 4 x 8-ft. birch plywood (4) 3/8-in. x 4 x

3/8-in. x 4 x 8-ft. birch plywood (1)plywood (4) 1/2-in. x 5 x 5-ft. Baltic birch plywood (2) 8/4 ash (21 board ft.

8/4 ash (21 board ft.birch plywood (2) 3/8-in. x 4 x 8-ft. birch plywood (1) — includes 50 percent waste)

includes 50 percent waste)

4/4 ash (9 board ft.(1) 8/4 ash (21 board ft. — includes 50 percent waste) — includes 50 percent waste)

includes 50 percent waste)

8/4 poplar (1 board ft.waste) 4/4 ash (9 board ft. — includes 50 percent waste) — includes 50 percent waste)

includes 50 percent waste)

4/4 poplar (13 board ft.8/4 poplar (1 board ft. — includes 50 percent waste) — includes 50 percent waste) 22-in.

includes 50 percent waste)

22-in. side-mount drawer slides (9)4/4 poplar (13 board ft. — includes 50 percent waste) No. 20 biscuits (96) No. 8

No. 20 biscuits (96)50 percent waste) 22-in. side-mount drawer slides (9) No. 8 x 2-1/2-in. flathead screws (16) No.

No. 8 x 2-1/2-in. flathead screws (16)22-in. side-mount drawer slides (9) No. 20 biscuits (96) No. 8 x 1-1/4-in. flathead screws (130)

No. 8 x 1-1/4-in. flathead screws (130)No. 20 biscuits (96) No. 8 x 2-1/2-in. flathead screws (16) No. 8 x 1-in. washer-head

No. 8 x 1-in. washer-head screws (46)flathead screws (16) No. 8 x 1-1/4-in. flathead screws (130) No. 7 x 1-1/4-in. pocket screws

No. 7 x 1-1/4-in. pocket screws (4)flathead screws (130) No. 8 x 1-in. washer-head screws (46) No. 6 x 1-1/4-in. flathead screws

No. 6 x 1-1/4-in. flathead screws (32)washer-head screws (46) No. 7 x 1-1/4-in. pocket screws (4) 1-in. x 18-gauge brads (124) Waterborne

1-in. x 18-gauge brads (124)x 1-1/4-in. pocket screws (4) No. 6 x 1-1/4-in. flathead screws (32) Waterborne polyurethane (1 quart)

Waterborne polyurethane (1 quart)7 x 1-1/4-in. pocket screws (4) No. 6 x 1-1/4-in. flathead screws (32) 1-in. x 18-gauge

Danish oil (1 pint)pocket screws (4) No. 6 x 1-1/4-in. flathead screws (32) 1-in. x 18-gauge brads (124) Waterborne

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Waterborne polyurethane (1 quart) Danish oil (1 pint) 6 decemB e R 2012/janua R y Cutting

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Cutting liSt

 
KEY
KEY

NO.

DESCRIPTION

SIZE

3/4-IN. BIRCH PLYWOOD

 

A11 Deck 70 x 39 in.

1

Deck

70 x 39 in.

A21 Deck 70 x 38 in.

1

Deck

70 x 38 in.

B14 Long sides 13-1/4 x 69 in.

4

Long sides

13-1/4 x 69 in.

B23 Long backs 13-1/4 x 24 in.

3

Long backs

13-1/4 x 24 in.

B32 Short backs 13-1/4 x 22-1/2 in.

2

Short backs

13-1/4 x 22-1/2 in.

B48 Sides 13-1/4 x 21-25/32 in.

8

Sides

13-1/4 x 21-25/32 in.

B54 Dividers 13-1/4 x 13-9/16 in.

4

Dividers

13-1/4 x 13-9/16 in.

3/4-IN. ASH PLYWOOD

 

C12 Wide panels 21 x 10-1/4 in.

2

Wide panels

21 x 10-1/4 in.

C22 Narrow panels 12 x 10-1/4 in.

2

Narrow panels

12 x 10-1/4 in.

D15 Wide drawer faces 20-5/8 x 9-7/8 in.

5

Wide drawer faces

20-5/8 x 9-7/8 in.

D24 Narrow drawer faces 11-5/8 x 4-25/32 in.

4

Narrow drawer faces

11-5/8 x 4-25/32 in.

ASH

E114 Long stiles 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 24 in.

14

Long stiles

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 24 in.

E28 Short stiles 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 15 in.

8

Short stiles

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 15 in.

E320 Rails 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 10-1/4 in.

20

Rails

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 10-1/4 in.

F11 Edge piece 3/4 x 3 x 76 in.

1

Edge piece

3/4 x 3 x 76 in.

F22 Edge pieces 3/4 x 3 x 41 in.

2

Edge pieces

3/4 x 3 x 41 in.

F32 Edge pieces 3/4 x 3 x 39 in.

2

Edge pieces

3/4 x 3 x 39 in.

GEdging pieces 1/8 x 3/4 in. x 48 lineal ft.

Edging pieces

1/8 x 3/4 in. x 48 lineal ft.

H15 Wide drawer pulls 3/4 x 7/8 x 20-3/8 in.

5

Wide drawer pulls

3/4 x 7/8 x 20-3/8 in.

H24 Narrow drawer pulls 3/4 x 7/8 x 11-3/8 in.

4

Narrow drawer pulls

3/4 x 7/8 x 11-3/8 in.

1/2-IN. BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD

 

I110 Wide drawer sides 9-7/8 x 22 in.

10

Wide drawer sides

9-7/8 x 22 in.

I25 Wide drawer fronts 9-7/8 x 19-7/16 in.

5

Wide drawer fronts

9-7/8 x 19-7/16 in.

I35 Wide drawer backs 9-1/4 x 19-7/16 in.

5

Wide drawer backs

9-1/4 x 19-7/16 in.

J18 Narrow drawer sides 4-3/4 x 22 in.

8

Narrow drawer sides

4-3/4 x 22 in.

J24 Narrow drawer fronts 4-3/4 x 10-7/16 in.

4

Narrow drawer fronts

4-3/4 x 10-7/16 in.

J34 Narrow drawer backs 4-1/8 x 10-7/16 in.

4

Narrow drawer backs

4-1/8 x 10-7/16 in.

3/8-IN. BIRCH PLYWOOD

 

K15 Wide drawer bottoms 21-3/4 x 19-1/2 in.

5

Wide drawer bottoms

21-3/4 x 19-1/2 in.

K24 Narrow drawer bottoms 21-3/4 x 10-1/2 in.

4

Narrow drawer bottoms

21-3/4 x 10-1/2 in.

POPLAR

 

L1 Filler cleat 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 24 in.

1

Filler cleat

3/4 x 1-1/2 x 24 in.

M116 Slide cleats 25/32 x 2-1/4 x 21-3/4 in.

16

Slide cleats

25/32 x 2-1/4 x 21-3/4 in.

M22 Slide short cleats 25/32 x 2-1/4 x 21 in.

2

Slide short cleats

25/32 x 2-1/4 x 21 in.

N2 Blockings 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 13-1/4 in.

2

Blockings

1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 13-1/4 in.

O1 Stop block 3/4 x 4 x 64 in.

1

Stop block

3/4 x 4 x 64 in.

but after seeing the finished bed, I’m

glad I employed miters. Follow the how- to assembly sequence closely when you

get to that point, and you’ll be fine.

storage seCtion

Cut pieces B1 through B5, C1, C2, E1, E2 and E3 to size (see cutting list, above).

Note: The dimensions in the cutting

list assume your 3/4-in. plywood is

23/32 in. thick, so the lengths of the pieces that fit between other plywood

2013

pieces have been configured accord- ingly. Take eight of the 20 rails (E3) and drill the screw holes in them for join- ing the boxes later (see illustration, op- posite). Two rails with holes are used on each of the three large noncorner drawer boxes, and the other two are used on the narrow drawer box. Glue and clamp rails without screw holes to the sides of panels C1 and C2. Miter one end of eight of the 14 long stiles (E1); they are used in building

illUSTRATiOn by bRUcE kiEffER

Workshop

King-Size Platform Bed

King-Size Platform Bed

King-Size Platform Bed
illUSTRATiOn by bRUcE kiEffER Workshop King-Size Platform Bed 2-1/4" 17-5/8" 2-3/4" 1-1/2" RAD. F3
2-1/4" 17-5/8" 2-3/4" 1-1/2" RAD. F3 17-5/8" CORNER A1 F2 POCKET SCREW 3/8" 13-1/8"
2-1/4"
17-5/8"
2-3/4"
1-1/2" RAD.
F3
17-5/8"
CORNER
A1
F2
POCKET SCREW
3/8"
13-1/8"
HOLE FROM
2"
UNDERNEATH
A2
13"
3/4"
12-5/8"
1/4" RAD.
F1
EDGES
45°
2
J2
NO. 8 x 1-1/4"
NO. 7 x 1-1/4"
POCKET
MITERED
G
O
CORNER
FLATHEAD
SCREW
SCREW
NO. 20
J1
NO. 8 x 1"
WASHER HEAD
SCREW
E2
B4
BISCUIT
C2
N
J3
21-3/4"
B4
B5
B1
1" BRAD
K2
I1
N
I2
M2
B3
B2
NO. 8
x 1-1/4" FH
SCREW
B1
B5
E2
E1
B1
L
I3
B5
M1
I1
B2
B1
B5
C2
M1
B4
B4
B2
B3
J3
K2
D1
3/4"
J1
B4
E2
H2
E1
E3
SLIDE -
13/16"
CABINET
I3
I1
NO. 8 x 2-1/2"
FLATHEAD
SCREW
MEMBER
E1
K1
G
E1
1
I3
I1
C1
D1
I3
K1
D2
I1
E3
I2
K1
I1
H1
1/2" RAD.
1/16"
D1
I1
D1
SLIDE -
1/16" MARGINS
22"
DRAWER
AROUND DRAWER
DRAWER
2
MEMBER
FACES
SLIDE
1" BRAD
G
NO. 6 x 1-1/4"
FLATHEAD
SCREW

E2

1-5/8"

J1

1/8"

2"

M1

5-1/8"

M1

B1

10°

7/8"

H1 &

H2

30°

PULL - SIDE

E1

1-5/8"

I1

1/4"

2"

M1 & M2

B4 & C1

H1 & H2

3/4"

PULL - END

I2, I3,

J2, J3

5/16"

3/16"

I1

J1

3/4"

1"

3/4"

3/4"

1"

3/4"

5/16" DIA.

5/16" DIA.

J2

CL

I2

3/8"

5/8"

E2

E1

SLIDES -

SLIDES -

DETAIL 1 -

DETAIL 2 -

SMALL DRAWERS

LARGE DRAWERS

DRAWER-CORNER JOINTS

DRAWER-FRONT HOLES

handymanc L u B . com

- DETAIL 2 - SMALL DRAWERS LARGE DRAWERS DRAWER-CORNER JOINTS DRAWER-FRONT HOLES handymanc L u B

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- DETAIL 2 - SMALL DRAWERS LARGE DRAWERS DRAWER-CORNER JOINTS DRAWER-FRONT HOLES handymanc L u B
1 Corner square
1
Corner square
1 Corner square glue and clamp the framed panels to the ends of the head box,

glue and clamp the framed panels to the ends of the head box, and make sure the assembly is square.

ends of the head box, and make sure the assembly is square. 2 E1 Spacer E3
2 E1 Spacer E3 Framed panel
2
E1
Spacer
E3
Framed panel

add the mitered top and bottom face-frame stiles (e1) to the corner-box assemblies. Clamp a spacer between the rails (e3) to maintain the 21-in. opening.sure the assembly is square. 2 E1 Spacer E3 Framed panel 4 Hold-in Drawer front Cut

4 Hold-in Drawer front
4
Hold-in
Drawer
front

Cut the drawer-joint tongues on the drawer fronts and backs with two setups. first cut the tongue to define its thickness and length; then remove the waste with the workpiece laid flat on the table.

remove the waste with the workpiece laid flat on the table. 3 Hold-down Drawer side Fence
3 Hold-down Drawer side Fence
3
Hold-down
Drawer side
Fence

Cut the drawer-joint grooves on the insides of the drawer sides using a table saw with a flat-tooth ripping blade. make two cuts to complete the 3/16- x 3/16-in. groove.laid flat on the table. 3 Hold-down Drawer side Fence 5 1-in. temporary overhang glue and

5 1-in. temporary overhang
5
1-in.
temporary
overhang

glue and pin the drawer corner joints together. Slide the drawer bottoms in place to hold the boxes square as the glue dries. avoid getting glue in the drawer-bottom grooves.the 3/16- x 3/16-in. groove. 5 1-in. temporary overhang 8 decemB e R 2012/janua R y

8

dries. avoid getting glue in the drawer-bottom grooves. 8 decemB e R 2012/janua R y 2013

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the two corner boxes. Glue and clamp mitered stiles to the ends of the wide panels (C1). Glue and clamp short stiles (E2) to the ends of the narrow panels (C2). Assemble the three large face frames for the noncorner drawer boxes and the two face frames for the narrow drawer box. At this point, just glue and clamp the joints; the biscuits that join the face frames to the ply- wood sides later will add strength. At- tach the remaining two rails (E3) to the front edges of the inside birch plywood sides (B4) of the two corner boxes. Finish sand the fronts of the face frames and framed panels to 150-grit. Cut the biscuit grooves for joining the parts to make the boxes. Glue and clamp the dividers (B5) to the long sides (B1); then add the framed pan- els to complete the head box (photo 1), and add the narrow face frames to complete the narrow drawer box. Glue and clamp the large face frames, the long backs (B2) and the sides (B4) together to make the three large non- corner drawer boxes. To build the two corner drawer box - es, glue and clamp the sides with the rails attached, the short backs (B3) and the framed panels together; then add the stiles (E1) to complete the corner boxes (photo 2). Rout the rounded over outside edges on the corner boxes.

DraWers

The drawers are designed with slide-in bottoms. I find it much easier to finish the drawers before installing the bot- toms. Cut the drawer pieces I1 through J3 to size. Note: The dimensions in the cutting list assume your 1/2-in. Baltic birch plywood is 15/32-in. thick, so the lengths of the drawer fronts and backs have been configured accordingly. Cut the drawer corner-joint grooves and tongues (photos 3 and 4). Test your machining setups on scrap wood to be sure the joints fit. Cut the grooves in the drawer fronts and sides for the drawer bot- toms. (Match the width of the groove to the thickness of the plywood bot- tom.) Drill the holes in the drawer fronts for mounting the drawer faces. Cut the drawer bottoms (K1, K2) 1 in.

wider than the finished dimension (22-3/4-in.); with this approach, you can use the drawer bottoms to square the drawers during assembly and then grab the excess to pull the bottoms back out. Finish sand the insides of the drawer sides, fronts and backs; then assemble the drawers (photo 5). After the glue has dried, remove the drawer bottoms, cut them to their finished size and fin- ish sand them.

DraWer faCes anD pulls

Cut the drawer faces (D1, D2) to size. Make the drawer edging pieces (g; pho- to 6) a bit wider than the thickness of the plywood. Cut the edging pieces to length plus 1 in.; then attach them to the drawer faces (photo 7). Use a palm router with a flush-trim bit to trim the edging strips flush with the plywood. Finish sand the drawer faces to 150-grit. While you’re making the drawer pulls (H1, H2), make 4 ft. of extra stock to build a sanding stand (photo 8). Sand the sawn edges of the drawer pulls smooth. Use a miter saw or sta- tionary belt sander to bevel the ends of the pulls. Next, drill the holes in the draw- er faces for attaching the pulls. I made templates to lay out and drill the holes relative to the tops of the drawers. After I drilled the holes in the drawers, I cut down the templates to match the backs of the pulls so I could drill the screw pilot holes with the proper spacing.

Mounting the DraWers

Make and attach the slide cleats (M1, M2). I used spacers to align the slide cleats as I mounted them to the boxes. Next, separate the drawer-slide mem- bers. Mount the slide cabinet members to the slide cleats using the front-to- back elongated holes, and mount the slide drawer members to the draw- ers using the up-and-down elongated holes. Align the fronts of the slide drawer members 1/16 in. from the front edges of the drawers. This stops the drawer faces from banging on the drawer slides when the drawers are pushed in.

Workshop

6 Edge strip
6
Edge strip

rip the 1/8-in.-wide drawer edging strips off the edge of a wide 3/4-in.-thick board. Work so that the pieces drop away from the blade. You’ll have to reset the fence a few times. Be sure to use your saw’s guard.when the drawers are pushed in. Workshop 6 Edge strip 7 Masking tape glue and tape

7 Masking tape
7
Masking
tape

glue and tape the solid-wood edging strips to the drawer faces. Place pieces of tape every 2 in. and pull them tight. make sure the edgings overhang the plywood on both the face and back.times. Be sure to use your saw’s guard. 7 Masking tape Insert the drawers, set the

Insert the drawers, set the drawer faces in their openings and check their fit. Use 1/16-in. spacers to check the margins. Trim the edges until they fit; then mark and drill pilot holes for the screws that attach the drawer faces to the drawers. Label all of the parts for final assembly. When you’re done, detach the drawer slides from the drawers.

DeCk panels

To make the deck panels, cut pieces A1, A2, F1, F2 and F3 to size (photo 9). Make the solid-wood edging pieces equal to the thickness of the plywood. Attach

the edging pieces to the deck pieces. Drill the pocket-screw holes in the ends of pieces F2 and F3. Cut the radius on the front corners and then rout the roundover edges. Drill the holes for the screws used to mount the panels to the storage section.

asseMbly anD finishing

If you want to include a headboard, build it from the plans at Handyman- Club.com, and attach the blockings (N). Otherwise, attach the stop block (O) to the head box to keep your mattress from sliding forward. Assemble the storage section (photo 10); then make

handymanc L u B . com

to keep your mattress from sliding forward. Assemble the storage section (photo 10) ; then make

9

to keep your mattress from sliding forward. Assemble the storage section (photo 10) ; then make
8 Pull stock Scrap fiberboard
8
Pull stock
Scrap fiberboard

make this sanding stand using the extra pull stock. Sand the sawn pull sides, and finish with 180-grit sandpaper. Hard sanding blocks will wear out quickly, but they provide the best results.8 Pull stock Scrap fiberboard 9 1/2-in.-thick straightedge guide use a router with a top-bearing pattern

9 1/2-in.-thick straightedge guide
9
1/2-in.-thick
straightedge
guide

use a router with a top-bearing pattern bit guided against a clamped-on straight- edge to cut the ends of the deck pieces (a1, a2) square. this setup leaves the edge tearout-free.

(a1, a2) square. this setup leaves the edge tearout-free. 10 assemble the storage section on a
(a1, a2) square. this setup leaves the edge tearout-free. 10 assemble the storage section on a
10
10

assemble the storage section on a flat floor. drill pilot holes and insert the screws to join the rails. add screws to join the box interiors as needed. Setups on uneven floors will require shimming.(a1, a2) square. this setup leaves the edge tearout-free. 10 1 0 decemB e R 2012/janua

as needed. Setups on uneven floors will require shimming. 1 0 decemB e R 2012/janua R

10

needed. Setups on uneven floors will require shimming. 1 0 decemB e R 2012/janua R y

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2012/janua R y

2013

Workshop

shimming. 1 0 decemB e R 2012/janua R y 2013 Workshop and attach the filler cleat

and attach the filler cleat (L). Disassemble the parts as needed for finishing and fill the nail holes in the drawer sides with putty. Finish sand all exposed surfaces to 180-grit, ease any sharp edges and apply your favorite finish. I used waterborne polyurethane on the ash pieces and Danish oil on the drawers. Don’t finish the deck panels; unfinished wood will help to keep the mattress from sliding. When you’re done, nail the drawer bottoms in place, remount the drawer slides, attach the pulls, mount the drawer faces, make the final drawer-alignment adjust- ments and then insert locking screws in the drawer slides. Finally, set up the

bed and enjoy a good night’s sleep.

Finally, set up the bed and enjoy a good night’s sleep. Handyman Club life member Bruce

Handyman Club life member Bruce Kieffer is a custom furniture builder, free- lance woodworking author and technical illustrator. You can see a collection of his work at kcfi.biz.

You can see a collection of his work at kcfi.biz. SOURCES Go to HandymanClub.com/magazine and click

SOURCES

Go to HandymanClub.com/magazine and click on WEB EXTRAS. Amazon (trammel-point set, General Tools no. 523), amazon.com

Infinity Tools (glue-line ripping saw blade, no. 010-024; top-bearing pattern bit, no. 11-754b; 1/2-in. roundover bit, no. 38- 880; 1/4-in. roundover bit, no. 38-754), 877-872-2487, infinitytools.com

Woodworker’s Hardware (22-in. full exten- sion with over-travel ball-bearing slide, no. kV8405 b22 Eb; 1-in. low-profile washer- head screw, SclP8X1), 800-383-0130, wwhardware.com

washer- head screw, SclP8X1), 800-383-0130, wwhardware.com Web extra For a cutting list for a queen-size bed

Web extra

For a cutting list for a queen-size bed and head- board instructions, scan this tag with your smartphone or go to HandymanClub.com.

list for a queen-size bed and head- board instructions, scan this tag with your smartphone or