Stick Insects L227

December 2002 December 2002 Stick Insects L227

SCHOOL SCIENCE SERVICE

L227 Stick Insects

Contents
1. 2. 3. 4. Scope of this guide.. Introduction... Some basic information about stick insects (Phasmids)... 3.1 The external anatomy of phasmids The life history of stick insects.. 4.1 Eggs 4.2 Nymphs.. 5. 6. Phasmids suitable for schools... 1 1 1 1 4 4 5 6

Housing requirements. 11 6.1 Eggs 11 6.2 Nymphs.. 11 6.3 Adults.. 12

7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14.

Feeding. 15 General care. 16 Handling 16 Surplus stock 17 Holiday care. 18 Transporting stock for sale or exchange. 18 Diseases... 19 Educational uses of stick insects.. 19 14.1 Studying insect life cycles................................................................................. 19 14.2 Studying insect anatomy.................................................................................. 19 14.3 Investigating stick insect movement................................................................. 20 14.4 Investigating stick insect physiology................................................................. 20 14.5 Investigating stick insect behaviour.................................................................. 21

15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.

Appendix 1 Checklist of equipment for keeping stick insects. 24 Appendix 2 Suppliers of livestock and equipment.... 25 Appendix 3 Sources of help and advice..... 29 Appendix 4 Publications.... 30 Appendix 5 A d-i-y cage for stick insects... 32 Appendix 6 Web sites dedicated to stick insects.. 35 Strictly Confidential Circulate to members and associates only

As with all CLEAPSS materials, members and associates are free to copy all or part of this guide for use in their own establishments. CLEAPSS School Science Service Brunel University Uxbridge UB8 3PH Tel: 01895 251496 Fax: 01895 814372 E-mail: science@cleapss.org.uk Web site: www.cleapss.org.uk

CLEAPSS 2002

L227 Stick Insects

1. Scope of this guide
This guide provides information about choosing stick insects suitable for study in schools and advice on how to maintain them in good health. It is intended for teachers and other staff with little previous experience of keeping insects. Details of suppliers of insects and equipment are given, together with a bibliography of publications dealing with their breeding and care. Some suggestions for practical work involving stick insects are also included.

2.

Introduction

Most children (and many adults!) are fascinated by stick insects. Their relatively large size and ability to mimic the plants on which they live are unique in the insect world. Despite these unusual features, they possess all the characteristics of typical insects, making them ideal for study in schools. They have the additional advantages of being straightforward to maintain, easy to breed and relatively free from any significant health hazards. The majority of species are generally harmless to both people and crops but a few types can nip, bite or scratch. One species, the Florida walking stick, Anisomorpha buprestoides, can release a defensive spray that is irritating to the eyes. A recent report suggested that people coming into extended and frequent contact with the insects may develop an allergic response to the dust produced by their skins and frass. The validity and significance of this claim has yet to be assessed. Although it is illegal in the UK to release any non-indigenous creature into the wild, if any stick insects do escape, they rarely survive for long enough to cause serious problems. Nevertheless, care should be taken to ensure that no escapees gain access to a heated greenhouse, since infestations have sometimes been reported in these circumstances.

3.

Some basic information about stick insects (Phasmids)

Stick and leaf insects belong to the insect order Phasmida, a group that includes about 2,500 species. They are relatively large, nocturnal, tropical or subtropical leaf-eating insects, the adults ranging in length from 20 mm to 300 mm. Their closest relatives are cockroaches and mantids. The name phasmid derives from the Greek word phasma, meaning spectre or ghost (from the way these insects blend into their background). Their ability to mimic plant organs is legendary. Adult insects resemble twigs or leaves and their eggs are strikingly similar in appearance to seeds (although whether this is likely to help their survival is not clear!). Their camouflage extends beyond mere physical similarity since they often also behave like plant organs, remaining immobile for long periods or swaying in the breeze, mimicking the movement of vegetation. 3.1 The external anatomy of phasmids Despite the unusual body forms shown by some stick insects, they display all the basic characteristics of the major group the Arthropods to which they belong. All have a tough outer skin, composed of the protein chitin that protects the body from drying out and acts as a skeleton. This external skeleton (the exoskeleton) supports and protects the body and forms a system of levers on which the
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muscles act to cause movement. Much of the success of the arthropods can be attributed to this exoskeleton, since it has enabled members of the group to live and move on dry land, water and in the air. Its properties are also important in determining the maximum size, strength and method of growth of members of the group. The body form of phasmids varies widely. Stick insects have elongated cylindrical bodies, although some have leaf-like side projections; the closely-related leaf insects have flattened bodies and limbs. In many species, the surface bears spines or more flattened projections that contribute to the camouflaged appearance of the insect. The following illustration shows the main external features exhibited by most phasmids. The external features of a stick insect

The head The head bears a pair of simple, filament-like antennae, which in some cases can be quite long. Males usually have longer antennae than females. All stick insects have a pair of compound eyes, while those types that fly may have two or three simple eyes in addition. The mouthparts are forward facing and designed to bite off pieces of leaf. They consist of an upper lip (the labrum), a lower lip (labium), a pair of jaws (mandibles) to chop the food and a pair of secondary jaws (maxillae). The labium and maxillae bear sensory palps to taste the food and move it towards the mouth. These structures are shown in the following diagrams.

A stick insect head viewed from below

Maxillary palp Mandible Labial palp Eye Labium

A stick insect head viewed from the left side

Simple eye Antenna Compound eye Neck

Labrum Mandible Maxilla Maxillary palp

Labium Labial palp

The thorax The thorax has three segments called (from the head end) the prothorax, mesothorax and metathorax. Each bears a similar pair of legs, although the rear pair may be somewhat larger and stronger. The end section of each leg consists of five parts called tarsi (singular tarsus). A typical stick insect limb
Trochanter Femur Tibia Tarsus

Claw

The legs are relatively easily shed, a process referred to as autotomy. This mechanism allows the insect to escape capture or entanglement with minimum damage, since a replacement limb grows and enlarges each time a moult occurs (see section 4). The tarsi of regenerated legs are 4- rather than 5-segmented. The mesothorax and metathorax each bear a pair of wings. However, the wings are reduced or lost in some species, especially the females. The fore wings and the front portion of the hind wings are modified to cover and protect the folded, flying part of the hind wings. Flying is possible in some species but is never strong and usually consists of a fluttering glide. The abdomen Despite appearances, there are eleven abdominal segments. The first or median segment is closely linked to the metathorax, while the eleventh merely consists of a few projections attached to the last obvious abdominal segment. The median segment is often important in classifying phasmids.
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The external male organs appear as relatively small projections below segments 8 and 9. Females possess an ovipositor, a larger structure from which the eggs are pushed out. The ovipositor consists of appendages from the 8th and 9th segments concealed by a flap-like plate, the operculum, which is derived from the lower covering of the 8th segment. These differences in shape can be useful in determining the gender of individual specimens.

In both sexes, there is a pair of unsegmented appendages arising from the rear of the abdomen called the cerci (singular: cercus). These may be involved in the mating process (see below).

4.

The life history of stick insects

The life history of stick insects consists of three stages: egg, nymph and adult. 4.1 Eggs In some species, eggs are fertilised in the conventional manner by male insects that are similar, although often smaller and differently coloured, to the female. Both males and females may mate several times, the male standing on the back of the female and tucking his abdomen around and underneath hers. At this point, he may use his cerci to grip the females abdomen. He then transfers sperm to the tip of the abdomen of the female in a small packet called a spermatophore. Sometimes, especially in larger species, the spermatophore falls to the bottom of the cage after mating. Normally, however, it remains attached to the female and sperm travel from it to a storage compartment at the tip of the females abdomen. There the sperm are stored until eggs are produced. Sperm penetrate the eggs as they pass by the storage chamber en route to the outside world. A typical spermatophore

In some species, including the Indian stick insect, females regularly produce fertile eggs without the need for fertilisation by a male, a process known as parthenogenesis. Unsurprisingly, in these types, males are rare. In yet other species, fertilisation is usually conventional but parthenogenesis is possible in the absence of fertile male insects. Eggs are most commonly laid singly and dropped or flicked onto the ground. The females of a few species deposit their eggs in loose soil while others glue their eggs individually or in batches to leaves or branches. The number of eggs
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produced depends on the species concerned and varies between 100 and 2,000 at any one time. All have the same general structure. Their shape and texture often resembles that of plant seeds. At the top is a lid-like operculum through which the nymph hatches. The operculum may bear a small knob or capitulum that is used by the female to hold the egg. At the side of the egg is a micropylar plate, looking very much like the scar on the side of a seed. This plate, along with the micropyle (hole) that it surrounds, is probably concerned with water regulation and respiration by the embryo developing within. The structure of a generalised stick insect egg
Capitulum Operculum

Micropylar plate Micropyle

Each egg contains a fatty liquid that nourishes the embryo during its development. Incubation time varies with temperature and between species; it can be as short as a month or over a year. 4.2 Nymphs The offspring from these eggs emerge in the form of nymphs that resemble the adult but are smaller and lack wings. They then go through a series of stages (usually about six), casting their skins between each one and becoming more adult-like at each stage. Each of these stages is referred to as an instar. At each moult or ecdysis, the body increases in length by about 25%. On reaching full size, a final moult gives rise to the mature adult. Unlike the life history of, eg, butterflies and moths, there is no resting stage (chrysalis or pupa) between the feeding and the adult stage, so metamorphosis in stick insects is described as incomplete. On hatching, nymphs must rest while their exoskeletons harden. Once this is complete, a period of great activity follows, during which they search about for suitable food plants. At first, their only means of sustenance may be to drink from tiny drops of water, but soon they begin to nibble at the food plants in order to choose an acceptable type. As the nymphs increase in size, it becomes necessary for the entire exoskeleton to be moulted, a process that is repeated six or more times before adulthood is reached. During moulting, the nymphs cling on to an upright support (such as a suitable twig or the side of their cage). The first visible sign of moulting is a change in appearance of the skin, which becomes translucent. After some time, the insect inflates its body with air, almost doubling its volume, as a result of which a split appears in the skin behind the head. The insect then commences to pull itself out of its old skin, a process that can take up to 2 hours. Once free, the soft new skin gradually hardens. It is very important that the insect hangs freely at this stage and is not cramped or damaged, since any resulting defects cannot be rectified until the next moult. An uneventful final moult is therefore very important in ensuring that the adult is unblemished. It is for this reason that a generously-sized cage is recommended. Obviously, insects should not be moved about or otherwise disturbed during ecdysis. Once the pro5

cess is complete, the insect often eats the old skin, which is an important source of protein. However, individuals that fail to do this still seem to develop normally. Once the adult emerges, a period of maturation must take place before mating and egg laying can occur.

5.

Phasmids suitable for schools

A wide variety of stick and leaf insects is available through specialist suppliers (see Appendix 2). The absolute beginner should start by keeping a commonly available and easily cared for variety such as the Indian stick insect. This classic, stick-like, wingless type has been in cultivation since 1898. Carausius morosus - the Indian stick insect - easy to care for, if rather unexciting.

10 mm

During its years in cultivation, this species has acquired a tolerance of the conditions typically found in centrally-heated classrooms and laboratories, so it can normally be kept in unheated cages. It is also easy to propagate, since it usually breeds by parthenogenesis. However, it is often considered to be rather unexciting, since it is not particularly colourful, lacks wings and is inactive by day. However, once experience has been gained by keeping a tolerant species such as this, some of the more demanding types can be considered. These may require higher levels of humidity and additional heating. Despite these additional requirements, most are by no means difficult to maintain. Leaf insects are the most challenging members of the group to keep, since they require closelycontrolled conditions.

Extatosoma tiaratum - Macleays Spectre stick insect - something more exotic!

10 mm

Table 1 gives details of some of the more easily-kept phasmids available. It includes information about the temperature, humidity and nutritional requirements for maintaining each of the insects listed. Information about temperature requirements should be used to decide whether normal room temperatures are suitable for the species. If not, additional heating will be necessary. The list of species is far from exhaustive and different suppliers stock different, but equally suitable, types. When purchasing a type that is not listed in the table, it is important to ascertain the geographical area and habitat from which it originated. It will then be possible to deduce the temperature and humidity level needed to keep the animals healthy. Heteropteryx dilatata - the Jungle Nymph - something more aggressive!

10 mm

TABLE 1
Scientific name
Aretaon asperrimus

The general features of species of phasmid selected for their ease of care
Common name and origin
Sabah or Thorny stick insect Borneo and the Philippines

General form

Size of adult

Temperature and humidity requirements

Culture at room temperature (18-25 oC) and high humidity (60-80%). Spray daily. A temperature of 20-24 oC is required. Does not need spraying with water. Ensure good ventilation. Thrives at normal room temperatures and tolerates dry conditions. Use a well-ventilated cage and spray once or twice a week. Prefers warm conditions (21-27 oC). High humidity helpful. Spray daily.

Food plants

General information and life cycle statistics

Provide sand or peat for egg deposition and bark for the insects to hide under. Eggs hatch after 3-4 months. Nymphs mature in 6 months. Adults live about 9 months. Reproduces by parthenogenesis. Eggs dropped onto the ground. They take 3-8 months to hatch. Nymphs mature in 2-4 months. Adults live 3-7 months. Exceptionally easy to rear. Eggs dropped onto the ground, taking 1.5-2 months to hatch. Nymphs mature in 4-6 months and adults live a further 6 months.

Brown and beige, with spines on head and thorax.

47-58 mm (1.8-2.3 inch) 74-86 mm (2.9-3.4 inch) 50-77 mm (2-3 inch) 64-102 mm (2.5-4 inch) 70 mm (2.7 inch) 77-107 mm (3-4.2 inch)

Bramble (Rubus fruticosus) and oak (Quercus sp.). Bramble or other Rosacea (Hawthorn, Crataegus etc). Bramble and rose.

Bacillus rossius

Mediterranean stick insect Corsica Southern Europe

Green or brown wingless, stick-like insects. Short antennae. Twig-like with serrated legs. Wingless.

Baculum extradentatum

The Annam stick insect Vietnam

Baculum thaii

Thai stick insect Thailand

Twig-like with serrated legs.

77-107 mm (3-4.2 inch) 118-178 mm (4.6-7 inch)

Bramble, raspberry and eucalyptus.

An active species. Eggs dropped onto the ground, taking 1-2 months to hatch. Nymphs mature in 1.5-2 months; adults live for 6 months. They are physically delicate and readily shed their legs when handled.

TABLE 1 (cont.)
Scientific name
Carausius morosus

The general features of species of phasmid selected for their ease of care
General form Size of adult Temperature and humidity requirements
Easy to keep at normal room temperatures. High humidity is not required but light spraying once or twice a week is beneficial. Prefers temperatures at the higher end of the range 18-25 oC. 80% humidity is required. Spray daily and keep a shallow dish of water in the cage. Provide bark for shelter. Normal room temperatures suffice. High humidity not required. Spray the food plant daily but use a ventilated cage.

Common name and origin

Laboratory or Indian stick insect Southern India

Food plants

General information and life cycle statistics

The commonest species kept in schools. Reproduces by parthenogenesis. Eggs are dropped onto the ground and hatch in 4-7 months. Nymphs mature in 4-7 months. Adults live 4-7 months. It tolerates relatively low temperatures, so take care to prevent escapes! Aggressive; keep apart from other types. Eggs are laid in 2 cm deep peat. A large propagator with a thick layer of moist peat makes ideal housing. The eggs hatch in 4-6 months, nymphs mature in 6 months and adults live for about a year. Warning. Can draw blood if carelessly handled. Not suitable to be kept by young children.

Dull green or brown, wingless stick-like insects.

69-77 mm (2.75-3 inch)

Privet (Ligustrum spp) and Ivy (Hedera helix)

Eurycantha calcarata

Giant Spiny stick insect. New Guinea.

Large, dark brown/ black. Very spiny.

100-125 mm (4-5 inch) 120-153 mm (4.7-6 inch)

Bramble, oak

Extatosoma tiaratum

Macleays Spectre or Giant Prickly stick insect Australia

A showy, leaf-like insect. Males are brown and slender. Females are large, brown, spiny insects; weak flyers.

77-115 mm (3-4.5 inch) 100-153 mm (4-6 inch)

Bramble, oak (especially suitable for nymphs), rose, hawthorn and eucalyptus.

Despite its exotic appearance, this stick insect was usually considered relatively easy to keep. Recently, however, there have been reports that nymphs are dying before completing their final moult. Inbreeding or parasitic attack have been suggested as reasons for this change. The female catapults the eggs to the floor of the cage. They should hatch in 4-8 months. Nymphs complete development in 3-4 months and adults live about 6 months. Warning. The spines can draw blood if the insects are carelessly handled and can nip the handler if disturbed. Not suitable to be kept by young children.

TABLE 1 (cont.)
Scientific name
Heteropteryx dilatata

The general features of species of phasmid selected for their ease of care
General form Size of adult Temperature and humidity requirements
Best in heated surroundings 21-27 oC. Needs humid conditions; spray food plant daily and provide a shallow dish of water. Avoid wellventilated cages. Tolerates a wide range of temperatures from 16-27 oC. Prefers a high humidity of about 70%. Spray daily.

Common name and origin

Jungle Nymph or Malaysian stick insect. The Cameroon Highlands

Food plants

General information and life cycle statistics

Eggs are laid on or in moist sand and take 12-16 months to hatch. Nymphs mature in about the same time and adults live for 12 months. Warning: Adults can draw blood by biting or stabbing. Handle them frequently when young to reduce such aggression. Not suitable to be kept by young children.

Males are dark brown with long wings. Females are apple green, broad and spiny.

77-88 mm (3-3.5 inch) 145-160 mm (5.7-6.3 inch)

Bramble.

Sipyloidea sipylus

Pink winged or Madagascan stick insect. East India Australia

Stick-like brown or yellow-brown insects with medium-sized wings.

50 mm (2 inch) 83-88 mm (3.25-3.5 inch)

Bramble or eucalyptus. Will also eat rose flowers, oak, rhododendron etc.

Being winged, this species is useful in showing basic insect characteristics. Reproduction is normally by parthenogenesis. Eggs are glued to rough surfaces. Cover the cage sides (especially the corners) with corrugated cardboard to receive the eggs. These will hatch in about 3 months. Nymphs mature in 4-6 months and adults live for 6-9 months.

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6.

Housing requirements

6.1 Eggs The ideal container for hatching eggs is a small plastic box with a transparent lid. Such boxes can be purchased from commercial suppliers (see Appendix 2) although sandwich boxes and other items (such as the plastic boxes used to pack Ferrero Rochet chocolates!) are equally suitable. These boxes protect the eggs while allowing the contents to be easily checked for emerging nymphs. However, in an emergency, any secure boxes can be used, although if they are opaque they will need to be opened to check for hatchlings every day. Since the eggs and the emerging nymphs of some species require ventilation, a number of small holes should be drilled in boxes that have tight-fitting lids. The base of the container should be covered with a layer of moistened horticultural sand about 1 cm deep. According to their type, eggs should be placed on top of the sand or pushed gently into it (see Table 1 for information). The boxes should then be labelled. Thereafter the eggs should be kept moist by spraying them with water once or twice a week. The resulting moist conditions may encourage the growth of mould on the eggs. If this is suspected, Nipagin powder (methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate) should be sprinkled lightly onto the sand every few days. Mould inhibitors such as Nipagin are sold by garden centres and some school science suppliers. Alternatively, eggs that have been placed on the surface of the sand can be gently dusted off using a soft paintbrush to remove any developing fungal growth. The incubation temperature should normally be the same as that provided for adults and nymphs. Most eggs take several months to hatch. The time taken can vary greatly, even between eggs that come from the same batch, so do not expect all the nymphs to appear on the same day. The factors that determine this variation are not yet understood although moderate warmth is known to reduce the time required for development. 6.2 Nymphs As soon as the nymphs have emerged from their eggs and their skins have hardened, they can be transferred to larger living quarters. In most cases this will be the cage in which they will be housed as adults. However, if this is already full or contains members of the more aggressive species such as Macleays Spectre, the Jungle Nymph or the Giant Spiny stick insect, it will be necessary to find some short-term housing until more suitable accommodation can be found. This may simply consist of a plastic lunch box, although certain species (see Table 1) will require some netting-covered holes to be cut in the lid for ventilation purposes. Since moulting nymphs require the height of their living quarters to be at least three times their length, a taller cage will soon be required. Newly-hatched nymphs are very fragile and often experience high rates of mortality. Consequently, they need to be handled carefully; see section 9. They move about actively looking for food and seek out droplets of water to drink. Spray the food plant regularly and if the nymphs have difficulty in feeding, trim back the edges of the leaves to expose some softer tissue. If that fails, try an alternative food plant!
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6.3 Adults A variety of containers can be used for keeping stick insects. It is important to choose housing to match the requirements of the particular species being kept. Size. All stick insects require a cage of sufficient height to accommodate a good supply of the food plant and to allow the nymph stages to shed their skin. Again, the rule of thumb is to ensure that the height of the cage is at least three times the length of the largest adult insect to be housed in it. Access to the inside of the cage is necessary for cleaning purposes and for changing the food plant. Where possible this should be provided though one of the sides, since adult insects of some species often cling to the top of the cage, creating difficulties when the lid is opened! Ventilation. Some species require relatively low humidity. This is easiest to provide using a well-ventilated cage, with net-covered apertures on one or more sides. Use fine, black entomological nylon netting glued in position to contain the smallest specimens while allowing them to be easily seen. Appendix 2, Suppliers of livestock and equipment, suggests sources of suitable netting and Appendix 5, A d-i-y cage for stick insects, some useful adhesives. Tropical forest varieties need higher temperatures, greater humidity and less ventilation. For these types, housing with solid walls is more suitable. Table 1 provides information about the requirements of 9 commonly available species. Use this information to match housing to its occupants. Reputable suppliers will provide similar information about any other types of phasmid that they supply. A wide range of containers has been pressed into use for housing phasmids, including those listed below. Inventiveness and imagination know few bounds in this area! However, it is important to ensure that the container used really will provide the living conditions required by different types of stick insect.

Large jam or sweet jars with the mouth covered with fine meshed netting. The mesh must be held securely in position with a large elastic band. Plastic jars have the advantage that additional ventilation can be provided by punching or cutting holes in the wall and covering them with netting. Plant propagators with adjustable ventilators. These can be useful when keeping phasmids that prefer warmer conditions, since they can accommodate a heating cable or pad. All the ventilators must be rendered phasmidproof. Aquaria with suitably-adapted hoods in which the ventilation holes have been covered with fine mesh. Because it is not essential for these tanks to be watertight, old, cracked or metal-framed types are quite suitable and may be obtained second hand for a very modest sum. If a hood is not available, all that is necessary to convert aquaria to insect housing is to tip them on end (to provide sufficient height) and cover the open side with netting. If this arrangement is to be used for more extended periods it is worth making up a light door frame to which the netting can be fixed. Such a door can then be hinged using self-adhesive tape, allowing easy access for cleaning out and food plant replacement.

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An aquarium adapted for housing phasmids

Old chemical balance cases. For insects that do not require high humidity the sliding front can be replaced with a light netting cover (as above). Otherwise, very little adaptation is necessary. Vivaria normally sold for reptiles and amphibians. These have the advantage that they have often been designed for use with heating cables or pads. Butterfly cages. These consist of a wood- or wire-framed box covered with netting. Although suitable for temporary use, they are designed for liquidfeeding insects and some stick insects can chew through the netting. Sources of these cages are given in Appendix 2. Purpose-built cages. These can be purchased from scientific suppliers (see Appendix 2, Suppliers of livestock and equipment) or alternatively can be constructed from inexpensive materials. They are capable of providing optimum living conditions for stick insects. There are two basically different types of manufactured cage: clear acrylic cylinder cages and rectangular types usually with the door, back and roof made of clear acrylic sheet and metal or nylon mesh side walls. Cylindrical cages are well suited to the housing of insects requiring humid conditions; rectangular types can be modified to cope with a range of humidity requirements. It is possible to construct either type of cage from d-i-y materials. Instructions for constructing a ventilated cage are given in Appendix 5. Cylindrical cages can be made with two sheets of transparent acetate sheet (as used for making overhead projector transparencies), fixed together to form a tube using clear, self-adhesive tape. The resulting cylinder is taped to a flat surface or fixed inside or around a circular biscuit tin. The top is covered with netting taped into position or using the biscuit tin lid in which ventilation holes have been drilled or a ventilation panel cut out and covered with netting.

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A popular type of clear plastic cylinder cage

This is a good general-purpose cage, albeit with little ventilation. It is particularly suitable for insects requiring moderate to high levels of humidity.

A d-i-y wood frame and netting cage

Two or three sides of this cage consist of fine netting. Ventilation can be adjusted by covering the netting sides with plastic sheeting.

It is important to choose a suitable location for the cage. Although most stick insects will survive (and many will flourish) in unheated cages, they must not be subjected to rapid or extreme temperature fluctuations. The cage should therefore not be kept on a windowsill or directly over a radiator. The ideal position would be in the corner of a room that is warm by day and cooler at night. Heating For many species, no additional warmth other than that provided by normal room heating is necessary. Where warmer conditions are required, eg, by some tropical species, the safest method of providing them is by a heater placed underneath the cage, or buried beneath sand at its bottom. Suitable heat sources
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for this purpose include mats or pads sold by garden suppliers for heating plant propagators. Some of the mats or pads sold for heating vivaria are also suitable. Although ceramic, infra-red emitters provide sufficient heat, they should not be placed inside a cage because the holder and parts of the surface can become very hot. Likewise, it is unwise to use infra-red heat lamps, spot lamps or even conventional light bulbs inside the cage because many of the insects that require warmth also need a very moist atmosphere. Spraying the cage with water to raise the humidity may result in the light bulbs shattering. Furthermore, many stick insects are nocturnal and need a period of darkness to become fully active; something that cannot be provided by a continuously-running light bulb. These problems can be overcome by placing a lamp outside but close to the cage. The lamp holder must be suitably-designed for the bulb being used, properly supported and electrically safe. An Anglepoise lamp is quite suitable for use with a domestic light bulb and can be turned off by a timer switch for a few hours during the night. A maximum and minimum thermometer placed inside the cage can be used to check whether sufficient heat is being supplied. Some of the more expensive insect cages are supplied with a heater and thermostat but this refinement is not necessary for culturing the species mentioned in this guide.

7.

Feeding

Although most of the common species of phasmid will eat bramble leaves (Rubus fruticosus), they do not form part of their natural diet. The chief exception is the Laboratory or Indian stick insect, Carausius morosus, which eats privet leaves (Ligustrum sp.). Fortunately, given a stout pair of gloves and some secateurs, both of these plants are easy to obtain at most times of the year. The greatest difficulty is likely to be experienced in early spring, when few mature leaves remain on the stems and new growth is only just appearing. The young leaves of many plants (including bramble) seem to be poisonous to phasmids and should be removed from any material that is to be offered as food. It is therefore worth looking out for bramble plants growing in sheltered places, since these provide the best chance of obtaining a supply of mature leaves in late winter. With this difficulty in mind, at least one commercial supplier offers to provide schools with suitable bramble stems delivered on a weekly basis throughout the year. Enthusiasts have experimented with a range of alternative foods, including wild rose (Rosa canina), hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), raspberry, oak (Quercus spp.), Cotoneaster, ivy (Hedera helix), Rhododendron and Pyracantha. The shrub Hypericum Hidcote (St Johns wort) is also reported to be well received and has the advantages of being semi-evergreen and free of thorns! Even apple peelings and lettuce leaves have been accepted by some species when other food sources have failed. If local supplies of bramble become scarce, it is worth trying out one or two of these alternatives; the evergreen species are obviously particularly useful in winter. Whatever the alternative food, it is, however, rare for a stick insect to change its diet once it has established a food preference. Avoid collecting plants growing close to roads or adjacent to crops that are likely to have been sprayed with insecticides, since pollutants may harm your stock. Once gathered, the vegetation must be prepared before being introduced into the insect cage. Remove any dead leaves and twigs and all visible invertebrate life such as snails, slugs and woodlice that could attack young phasmids. Then cut
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off the dead bases of the stems and crush the newly-exposed ends before placing them in water. This can be provided by using wet sand, moistened florists oasis or simply a pot of water with the gap between stem and pot filled with paper or cotton wool to prevent insects from drowning. Food plants should be regularly checked for freshness but, treated in the manner described, they should last for up to a week, or until they are consumed. When replacing the pot of old food plants, check thoroughly for stick insects hidden on the twigs etc.

8.

General care

Most species require only very basic levels of routine maintenance. Whenever the food plant is replaced, the cage should be cleaned out. To make this process easier, cover the floor or table with a sheet of paper that is larger than the base of the cage. This allows droppings, small nymphs and eggs to be collected up with the minimum of fuss. Any eggs can be separated from the droppings by removing the paper and gently tipping it so that they roll towards one corner. They can then be transferred to a suitable box for incubation; a small paintbrush can be very useful for doing this. For species that lay their eggs in soil, a pot containing a layer of moist peat or sand about 3 cm deep should be placed in the cage. Any eggs laid in this pot should be gently separated out every few days and transferred to fresh medium for incubation. Eggs that have been glued onto surfaces such as twigs can be removed with a damp paintbrush. Those fixed onto leaves can be carefully cut free. In both instances the freed eggs should be transferred to a box as described in section 6.1. When cleaning out a cage, try to avoid raising dust that might be inhaled. Most phasmids benefit from a supply of water droplets on the surface of the food plant and cage walls. This can be provided by lightly spraying with a hand spray. This is available from some of the suppliers listed in Appendix 2. Similar sprayers, designed for spraying foliar feed onto plants, are available from garden centres. Alternatively, provided that they are very thoroughly washed out before use, the pump-spray dispensers in which some domestic liquids such as window and bathroom cleaning fluids are supplied will serve the purpose equally well. Spraying should be carried out about once or twice a week for temperate species. Those types that originate from tropical rainforests require daily spraying to ensure suitable humidity levels within the cage. Do not soak the cage and its contents, since this encourages mould that can be harmful to the occupants. For the real enthusiast, humidity gauges can be obtained from garden centres and laboratory equipment suppliers.

9.

Handling

As mentioned earlier, young nymphs are very delicate and need to be handled with great care. If they need to be moved, they should be picked up using a soft brush or gently encouraged to walk onto a piece of paper or other surface. They should not be picked up with the fingers. Older nymphs and adults should also be handled with care, since they easily shed their legs. The best strategy is to coax them onto the hand rather than attempting to pick them up. If it is essential to lift them up, grasp large insects by the middle of their bodies and medium-sized insects by their tails. A few types can give a nip, bite or scratch and should be handled with respect and a pair of gloves! Details of the more aggressive types are given in Table 1.
16

Eurycantha calcarata - Giant Spiny Stick Insect - not for the beginner; large, aggressive and needing warm, moist conditions

10.

Surplus stock

Many species produce large numbers of eggs, and may reproduce by parthenogenesis. As a result, the numbers of offspring can soon become overwhelming. The easiest method of controlling numbers is to dispose of the eggs. They cannot simply be placed in the refuse bin, however, since this could be construed as illegally releasing the insect into the wild. If they are prevented from hatching, for example, by putting them into a plastic box or bag and placing it in a freezing compartment for a few days, they can then be disposed of without concern. Alternatively, it may be possible to trade some eggs with other interested enthusiasts, although the market is well supplied with the commoner species. Since insect eggs make a welcome addition to the diet of many aquarium fish, another method of disposal is obvious! Nymphs and adults can be more difficult to dispose of. Some may be donated to interested students or sold to pet shops. They also make suitable food for any carnivorous animals kept in captivity such as lizards, frogs, newts and spiders. The last (and least popular) option is to carry out humane euthanasia. As with the eggs, nymphs and adults can also be killed by placing them in an airtight container in a freezer for a day or two. If no such means of chilling the insects is available, it will be necessary to kill them using a chemical method. First, find a jar large enough to hold the biggest of the insects to be treated. Choose a glass jar with a tight-fitting glass, plastic or cork lid; a large coffee jar is ideal for most species. Place a layer about 20 mm deep of well-bruised laurel leaves (Prunus laurocerasus, not the variegated varieties) in the bottom of the jar and leave it firmly closed for 23 days before use. Such a jar should remain capable of killing insects for up to a month; the leaves release hydrogen cyanide. For schools that have access to it, ethyl ethanoate (ethyl acetate) IRRITANT p HIGHLY FLAMMABLE q provides a conv17

enient alternative to laurel leaves. Pour a few drops onto a pad of cotton wool placed at the bottom of the jar. This chemical should be used and stored with care. Use it in well-ventilated areas and be aware that its sweet smell can be addictive. Consult CLEAPSS Hazcards 43 (or contact CLEAPSS for advice) to obtain the hazard data necessary to carry out a risk assessment. An insect killing jar

11.

Holiday care

Stick insect cultures can survive half term and other shorter holidays without attention. Try to avoid having large numbers of insects just before any long school holiday. Recruit suitable carers in good time to look after the remaining insects. This may require pupils to take the cages and their contents home with them. If so, this needs to be organised well in advance so that parents can be consulted and suitable transport arranged. Make sure to send home a brief information sheet with the insects. This should outline the care requirements of the insects, including the collection and preparation of their food plant(s) and any temperature and humidity requirements they may have. Warn parents to check that the cages are properly sealed so that the occupants cannot escape and ruin the houseplants!

12.

Transporting stock for sale or exchange

The cheapest and most convenient way in which to purchase phasmids is in the form of eggs. Nymphs, and occasionally adults, are also offered for sale, but these are progressively more expensive. Furthermore, nymphs do not travel as well as eggs, while adults may only have a short life expectancy on arrival. If personal collection or delivery is not possible, the best method of transport is to send eggs through the post. Avoid sending them when cold weather is forecast, since frost would certainly kill most of them. A convenient method of posting eggs is to enclose them in a short length of relatively thick-walled plastic tubing and stopper the ends with cotton wool (plastic plumbing pipe cut up into short lengths is ideal). This arrangement is then fixed with self-adhesive tape to a piece of card, placed in an envelope and sent by ordinary letter post. Provided the tube is strong enough to prevent crushing, this method is likely to be very successful. Alternatively, the eggs may be packed with cotton wool in plastic containers such as those used to hold 35 mm film cassettes. These can then be placed in stout envelopes and sent through the post in the same way that film is sent to firms for development. Sending nymphs and adults by mail or courier presents additional risks because a suitable environment cannot be economically maintained within a parcel. Frosts and periods of very hot weather are equally damaging to these stages in the animals life history. If this form of delivery is unavoidable, the insects should be
18

packed into a stout, well-ventilated, escape-proof, cardboard box. The box should be packed with dethorned food plant, the cut ends of which have been surrounded with damp cotton wool and enclosed in polythene to retain the moisture. Sufficient room should exist within the box to allow the insects to move freely about on the food plant without being too cramped. The outer packing must be substantial to prevent the package from opening in the post. Both the consignors and the consignees addresses must be clearly written on the package, preferably with telephone numbers. The whole package should then be labelled: URGENT BIOLOGICAL SPECIMENS - PLEASE HANDLE WITH CARE.

13.

Diseases

Little is known about the diseases of phasmids. Fungal attacks may kill developing eggs, but the causes of the quite frequent sudden deaths are still unclear. Most of the problems encountered in keeping and rearing stick insects appear to be the result of unsuitable housing conditions (incorrect humidity, overcrowding, poor food plant condition etc) rather than disease. Snails, woodlice and spiders have all been known to attack phasmids at some stage in their life history, which is why food plants should be carefully checked before being put into their cages.

14.

Educational uses of stick insects

The value of stick and leaf insects in schools is greatly under-rated. They allow a great deal of observation and investigation to be undertaken by pupils of all ages. Here are some suggestions of activities from which to choose. 14.1 Studying insect life cycles Stick insects provide good examples of the stages in incomplete metamorphosis, contrasting well with those of butterflies, moths, beetles and many others which have complete life cycles involving a pupal stage. 14.2 Studying insect anatomy Although the adults retain many juvenile features, such as feeble wing development, phasmids nevertheless display all the basic characteristics of insects. Most are relatively large and inactive by day, making them particularly easy to observe and photograph. They make excellent material for developing the observational skills of both primary and secondary school pupils. In addition, moulting provides an excellent opportunity for pupils to observe and record a process rather than a structure. The use of sequencing and illustrations to supplement written descriptions are useful skills that pupils will need to develop in such recording work. Digital microscopes (eg, the Intel computer microscope) are obviously invaluable in observing and recording such events. The skin shed during ecdysis allows a detailed microscopical examination of different regions of the body to be carried out. Furthermore, many stick insects (including the Indian stick insect) feign death when disturbed. In this state, the surface of the exoskeleton can be studied in detail using a binocular microscope, a hand lens or a digital magnifier.

19

14.3 Investigating stick insect movement One major problem is that many stick insects remain fairly motionless by day, which can make studying movement difficult! Unfortunately, the commonest phasmid kept in schools, the Indian stick insect, is not only inactive by day but also enters a completely torpid state if disturbed. Inert insects can be encouraged to move by warming them in the hand and gently blowing on them, but this is not always successful. Some species, such as the Thai stick insect, Baculum thaii, are more active than most others, making them worth keeping for this reason alone. In what order do insects move their legs? This can be tackled as a group activity. Each leg of the insect must first be identified by a letter or number. Pupils then choose one or more legs to observe, calling out the letter or number as it is lifted from the ground. Another pupil acts as group scribe, noting down the sequence of numbers as they are called out. Alternatively, if the school has access to a suitable camcorder (or the Intel microscope used as a close-up viewer), a video can be made of the insect on the move. Frame-by-frame analysis will then reveal the sequence in which the legs move. Different insects can be compared to determine whether there is a fixed pattern across the group. Do all species move in the same way? Some certainly sway from side to side as they move, perhaps influenced by air currents. What is the average stride length? This is another job for the digital camera or camcorder. Place the insect on a sheet of graph paper of sufficient area to allow the insect to take several strides. The graph paper should be chosen to provide the clearest image possible, ie, dark lines on white paper. A camera capable of taking a sequence of photographs in succession should be firmly supported perpendicularly over the insect. If possible, focus the camera on the graph paper rather than the top surface of the insect (the manufacturers instructions should be consulted for information about how this can be achieved). Ensure that the field of view covers the entire anticipated walking area. Take a sequence of pictures when the insect moves so that the stride of each leg can be observed and measured against the background graph paper on the resulting images. 14.4 Investigating stick insect physiology The Animals (Scientific Procedures) Act regulates the type of experiments that can be carried out on animals. It prohibits the carrying out of any procedure that could result in a vertebrate (other than a human being) suffering pain, distress or lasting harm, unless under licensed control. No such regulations apply to practical work carried out on invertebrates such as stick insects so the range of possible practical studies is wider, although no teacher would wish to encourage callous behaviour towards living things. None of the studies suggested here is thought to damage or cause the insects any great distress. However, scientific literature does contain suggestions of studies that could do so. Pupils coming across such accounts may wish to discuss the moral and ethical aspects of experiments on animals. What factors affect the colour of stick insects? The Indian stick insect is normally a dull green or brown colour. Its colouration is due to green, orange and red-brown pigments in the skin, movement of which enables the insect to adapt, over a period of a week or two, to the colour of its
20

surroundings. This can be investigated by keeping the insects in cylinder cages covered with differently coloured paper. It is suggested that yellow or light-green cages give rise to adults that are generally light in colour. Crimson or black cages result in very dark brown insects and a blue background produces sepia-coloured ones. Short-term colour changes are more difficult to detect because the nature of the illumination and reflection from nearby surfaces can affect our colour judgement. Changes are most obvious if different regions of the insect body are subjected to different conditions (for instance, by masking a part of the abdomen with opaque tape). It is also said that high temperatures and low humidity cause green insects to become brown. There is scope here for further investigations of the influence of environmental factors. Studies of growth The obvious change in size observable at each moult of the nymph poses the question: does a similar increase in mass take place at the same time? If an accurate balance is available, a single insect can be weighed before and after each moult. Records kept of the length of time between successive moults experienced by previous generations of the species can be useful in planning the necessary weighing programme. If a sufficiently sensitive balance is not available, weighing a batch of insects and working out the average provides a valid, if less accurate, method of monitoring growth. A graph or chart of the results enables changes in mass during moulting to be studied. Once a method for measuring the growth of an insect has been devised, it can be used to study potential variables that might affect growth, such as dietary changes, day length or temperature. Quantity of food eaten Direct measurement of the mass of leaf eaten each day by a phasmid would require an extremely sensitive and consistent balance, since the quantities involved are small. It may be possible to measure the food intake of a group of similar insects using this method and then work out the average but even this would require a very sensitive balance to obtain reliable results. It is much simpler to measure the area of leaf consumed. Select a healthy, active adult and place it in a separate container together with its usual food plant. After a few days, replace the food plant with a fresh twig from which all except two or three leaves have been removed. Immediately prior to introducing them into the container, the mass and total area of these leaves should be measured. The area can be assessed by tracing around the leaves as accurately as possible onto graph paper. After 24 hours, the leaf should be removed, remeasured and discarded, ready for a repeat study using a fresh leaf. Use the masses and area of the intact leaves to calculate the mass of leaf eaten by the insect: area of leaf eaten x total mass of leaves provided total area of leaves provided. 14.5 Investigating stick insect behaviour

Observation of the flight reflex Insects commence flying when their tarsi are not in contact with the ground. This is an example of how adaptations have arisen to match an animals lifestyle. The
21

flight reflex can be shown by tying a thread around the thorax of a suitable insect (ie, one with wings!). When the insect is lifted up, a reflex response immediately causes the wings of the insect to carry out flying movements. If a piece of card is then brought up until the feet come into contact with it, flight ceases. A camcorder or a digital camera capable of taking sequences of images can be used to analyse the speed and nature of the wing beat. Catalepsy This is a defence mechanism employed by many stick insects, which may help to reduce predation losses in the wild. When alarmed, the body of the insect becomes rigid due to the contraction of most of the limb and body muscles. As a result the insect adopts the form of a straight stick with the antennae pointing forwards and the legs backwards. The insect can remain in this condition for long periods. The condition can easily be demonstrated by rolling the insect very gently with two fingers on a level surface. Gently pinching the hind end of the thorax or warming the insect in the hand will break the condition. Photohorotaxis (Photo = light; horos = border; taxis = movement in response to a stimulus.) Since the eggs of stick insects are often simply cast to the ground, the nymphs must possess some means of finding plant stems and climbing onto them. This can be investigated using a large cylinder of white paper with some strips of black paper to represent the stems of plants. After a few minutes, most nymphs will be found near the border between light and dark areas. This is not movement directly towards or away from light (phototaxis); it is movement towards a junction.

Other responses It is relatively straightforward to design fair tests to study the following activities. (a) Food preference. Many stick insects will eat leaves from plants other than bramble or privet. Their preferences may be studied by offering a number of similar insects a choice of food plant and measuring the quantity of each type consumed. Reference has already been made to alternative food plants that are known to be accepted by some species; see Table 1. It may be necessary to allow the insects 2-3 days in which to adjust to the new food before attempting to measure the quantity eaten. Experience has shown, however, that many stick insects refuse to accept suitable alternative food material once they have become used to a particular plant.
22

Therefore, a further study is to correlate an ability to switch to alternative foods with the age of the animals, ie, which nymphal stage has been reached. (b) Factors involved in stimulating activity. Most stick insects are nocturnal and become active in the evening. What light level triggers the increase in activity? Or do the stick insects have an in-built biological clock that determines when they become active? Movement may be detected by recording the sound levels inside the insect cage using a suitable datalogging sensor and software program. A position sensor could also be used to detect movement over a period of a day or so. Attach a ventilated, translucent sandwich box to one end of a rotation sensor bar. This can be achieved by cutting holes in one end of the box and passing thick gardening wire through them to fix the box onto the arm. Put the largest stick insect available, together with a few leaves from its usual food plant, into the box and secure the lid. Place the entire set up in a warm, quiet place with few draughts. Carefully balance the box on the arm using masses or pieces of modelling clay. A set up for detecting insect movement

Use the sensor and suitable software to record changes in position of the box as the stick insect moves around. Investigate whether time of day and/or light levels affect the activity of the animals.

23

15.

Appendix 1 Checklist of equipment for keeping stick insects

Details of the source of most of the specialist items listed below are given in Appendix 2, Suppliers of livestock and equipment. Basic equipment
Cage (large) for adults

Use
Sufficiently roomy, with appropriate ventilation to house the species being kept. (It must be at least three times as high as the maximum length of the adult insect.) Only necessary if the main cage is unsuitable. Can double as a holding cage for active insects when main cage is being cleaned etc. For covering large ventilation holes. Also provides a surface for insects to climb on. For collecting and handling food plants. For covering the floor of the cage and aiding collection of eggs and droppings. To help prevent eggs from decomposing. To keep the food plants fresh. For handling eggs and very delicate nymphs; also for dusting off eggs to help prevent decay. For storing eggs.

Cage for nymphs, smaller than above Fine netting or gauze Gardening gloves and secateurs Newspaper or tissue paper Nipagin or other mould inhibitor Pot of water, oasis or moist sand Reliable source of food plants Small paintbrush

Small ventilated plastic boxes (clear)

For maintaining more demanding species Humidity meter Maximum and minimum thermometer Heating device, eg, thermal pad or mat, heating cable, infra-red or domestic light bulb (with or without thermostat) Useful for checking the humidity in cages of insects from tropical areas. To check that temperature fluctuations are not excessive. For heating the cages of some tropical species.

24

16.

Appendix 2 Suppliers of livestock and equipment

Note. At the time of writing this guide, the suppliers listed below indicated that various species of stick insect were on sale. However, current stocks may sell out and new species may become available. Always check with the supplier to ascertain the species that are available before placing an order. Some of the suppliers listed produce a catalogue of their animals and products. Local pet shops may also supply stick insects.

Blades Biological
Cowden Edenbridge TN8 7DX Tel: 01342 850242 Fax: 01342 850924 E-mail: info@blades-bio.co.uk Web site: www.blades-bio.co.uk Stick insects supplied: Aretaon asperrimus (Thorny1 or Sabah); Baculum thaii (Thailand); Carausius morosus (Indian); Menexenus maerens (Vietnamese prickly); Sipyloidea sipylus (Pink winged). Other items supplied: Plastic cylinder cage, net-covered butterfly cages, heat mats and thermostats.

Bugs Direct
2 Well Cottages Devon TQ11 0JU Tel: 01803 762409 Fax: 01803 762409 E-mail: sales@bugsdirectuk.com Web site: www.bugsdirectuk.com Stick insects supplied: Acanthoxyla prasina (New Zealand prickly green); Acrophylla wuelfingii (Queensland titan); Extatosoma tiaratum (Giant prickly); Heteropteryx dilatata (Malaysian jungle nymph); Paraphasma rufipes (Twig stick); Phaenopharos khaoyaiensis (Thailand giant walking stick); Sungaya inexpectata (Philippines). Other items supplied: None listed.

Virginia Cheeseman
3 Sutton Road Heston TW5 0PG Tel: 020 8572 0414 Fax: 020 8572 0414 E-mail: vcheeseman@aol.com Web site: www.virginiacheeseman.co.uk Stick insects supplied: Anisomorpha monstrosa (Belize black); Aretaon asperrimus (Thorny or Sabah); Baculum extradentatum (Annam); Baculum sp. (Thailand); Carausius morosus (Indian); Eurycantha sp. (Giant spiny); Haaniella sp. (Wood nymph); Heteropteryx dilatata (Jungle nymph); Lamponius guerini (Guadeloupe); Libethra regularis (Trinidad miniature); Menexenus maerens (Vietnam prickly); Sipyloidea sipylus (Pink winged); Sipyloidea sp. (Australian winged); Sungaya inexpectata (Sunny stick).

Throughout this section, the common names quoted are those that are used by the particular supplier concerned.

25

Other items supplied: A range of clear plastic boxes, black nylon netting, vivarium heating mats, thermostats, thermometers, a humidity gauge and a good range of books about keeping phasmids.

Easy Insects
PO Box 107 Pontefract WF9 1YW Tel: 01977 651187 Fax: 01977 644884 E-mail: info@easyinsects.co.uk Web site: www.easyinsects.co.uk Stick insects supplied: Acrophylla wuelfingii (Titan); Aretaon asperrimus (Thorny or Sabah); Carausius morosus (Indian); Eurycantha calcarata (Giant spiny); Eurycantha coriacea (similar to giant spiny); Extatosoma tiaratum (Macleays spectre); Heteropteryx dilatata (Jungle nymph); Medaura brunneri (Bangladesh); Phaenopharos khaoyaiensis (Thailand giant); Phasma gigas (Giant stick); Sipyloidea sipylus (Pink winged). Other items supplied: Vivaria; heaters; thermometers; humidity meters.

Griffin and George

Bishop Meadow Road Loughborough LE11 5RG Tel: 01509 233344 Fax: 01509 231893 E-mail: info@fisher.co.uk Web site: griffinandgeorge.co.uk This company does not supply phasmids. It is a supplier of general equipment for school science. Its catalogue includes a cylindrical plastic cage suitable for stick insects.

Philip Harris
Findel House Excelsior Road Ashby Park Ashby de la Zouch LE65 1NG Tel: 0845 120 4520 Fax: 01530 419492 E-mail: customerservice@philipharris.co.uk Web site: www.philipharris.co.uk Stick insects supplied: Carausius morosus (Indian); Extatosoma tiaratum (Macleays spectre). Other items supplied: Plastic cylinder cage; a rectangular Bug cage; a mist dispenser; pot for food plant with oasis.

Insectpets.co.uk
2 Ripon Close Barns Park Cramlington NE23 7XJ Tel: 01670 738504 Fax: E-mail: team@insectpets.co.uk Web site: www.insectpets.co.uk Stick insects supplied: Baculum sp; Neohirasea (Vietnamese); Unknown sp. (Pink winged). Other items supplied: Plastic boxes, mist sprayer. 26

Phasmid Study Group

See Appendix 3 Sources of help and advice for details of this organisation. It is the major source of less common-place species for the enthusiast.

Rep-tech
PO Box 1922 Windsor SL4 4ED Tel: 01753 830444 Fax: 01753 831551 E-mail: sales@rep-tech.freeserve.co.uk Web site: www.rep-tech.co.uk This company does not supply phasmids. It deals principally in reptiles and the equipment necessary for culturing them. It supplies a wide range of infra-red heat lamps, heat mats, thermometers and a humidity gauge that are equally suitable for phasmid care.

Small-Life Supplies
Station Buildings Station Road Bottesford NG13 0EB Tel: 01949 842446 Fax: 01949 843036 E-mail: joanne@small-life.co.uk Web site: www.small-life.co.uk Stick insects supplied: Aretaon asperrimus (Thorny or Sabah); Baculum extradentatum (Vietnamese or Annam); Baculum thaii (Thailand); Carausius morosus (Indian); Eurycantha calcarata (New Guinea); Extatosoma tiaratum (Macleays spectre); Heteropteryx dilatata (Malaysian); Lamponius guerini (Guadeloupe); Neohirasea maerens (Vietnamese bark); Phaenopharos herwaardeni (Thailand straight); Sipyloidea sipylus (Pink winged); Sipyloidea sp. (Thailand winged). Other items supplied: Two sizes of rectangular cage, egg-storage boxes, an adjustable mister and year-round supplies of bramble. The company also publishes a useful publication Keeping Stick Insects (see Appendix 3).

Stickinsects.co.uk
131 Roundhill Road St Andrews Fife KY16 8HG Tel: 01334 477385 Fax: E-mail: info@stickinsects.co.uk Web site: www.stickinsects.co.uk Stick insects supplied: Carausius morosus (Indian). Other items supplied: Kits that include the basic items needed for starting and maintaining a culture of Carausius morosus; a cylinder cage; mister and oasis.

Timstar Laboratory Suppliers Ltd

Marshfield Bank Middlewich Road Crewe CW2 8UY Tel: 01270 250459 Fax: 01270 250601 E-mail: sales@timstar.co.uk Web site: www.timstar.co.uk Stick insects supplied: Carausius morosus (Indian). 27

Other items supplied: A supplier of general equipment for school science. Its catalogue includes a cylindrical, plastic cage and a rectangular Bug cage.

Watkins & Doncaster

The Naturalists PO Box 5 Cranbrook TN18 5EZ Tel: 01580 753133 Fax: 01580 754054 E-mail: sales@watdon.com Web site: www.watdon.com This company does not supply phasmids. A specialist supplier of a wide range of entomological equipment, including netting, net cages and plastic boxes.

Worldwide Butterflies
Compton House Sherbourne DT9 4QN Tel: 01935 474608 Fax: 01935 429937 E-mail: sales@wwb.co.uk Web site: www.wwb.co.uk Stick insects supplied: Aretaon asperrimus (Thorny or Sabah); Carausius morosus (Indian); Eurycantha calcarata (New Guinea); Extatosoma tiaratum (Macleays spectre); Neohirasea maerens (Vietnamese bark); Sipyloidea sipylus (Pink winged). Other items supplied: Three different sizes of netting-covered rectangular cage (mini, standard and deep), two different sizes of flat-pack, wooden-framed cages with netting sides, a large (9 x 12) clear plastic cylinder cage, a large Perspex-sided phasmid house, black nylon netting and plastic boxes in a variety of sizes.

28

17.

Appendix 3 Sources of help and advice

The Phasmid Study Group

Membership secretary Paul Brock Papillon 40 Thorndike Road Slough SL2 1SR Tel: 01753 579447 (after 5pm) Fax: E-mail: This group has a worldwide membership. It publishes a newsletter and journal and is by far the best source of supply of stick insects for the enthusiast; some species will only ever be available through the Group. However, to obtain phasmids from this source, one not only needs to be a member, but a participating member! Whilst new members may be given surplus eggs of common species, membership does not bring with it an entitlement to unlimited amounts of scarce livestock. Instead, an exchange system operates. Members breed and produce a surplus of one species to exchange for a starter culture of another. The different species are valued, enabling the exchanges to be balanced by either quality or quantity. This ensures the whole group is selfsufficient in terms of adequate stock levels and availability of surplus material. If it is envisaged that surplus eggs and culturing experience would not be returned to the Phasmid Study Group, then membership should not be sought and phasmids should be purchased from one of the dealers offering them for sale.

Amateur Entomologists' Society

PO Box 8774 London SW7 5ZG Tel: 020 7942 5595 Fax: E-mail: aes@theaes.org Web site: www.theaes.org This organisation promotes the study and care of all types of insect, including phasmids. It publishes a range of authoritative academic texts on a variety of topics together with a bimonthly members journal, the Bulletin, and a bimonthly magazine for younger members, the AES Bug Club Magazine. Membership types: Ordinary Ordinary members receive the Bulletin six times per year and Invertebrate Conservation News three times per year. 15.00 per annum. Junior Junior membership is for the under-18s. Juniors under 11 receive the AES Bug Club Magazine; those between 11 and 12 receive both the Bulletin and AES Bug Club Magazine. Those aged over 13 receive just the Bulletin. 8.00 per annum. Family This entitles the member to both the Bulletin and the AES Bug Club Magazine. 20.00 per annum. Associate This category of membership is for schools, societies, libraries and other institutions. Subscription is the same as for Ordinary or Family membership depending upon the publications required, ie, 15.00 or 20.00 per annum.

29

18.

Appendix 4 Publications

Where a publication can be purchased directly from a publisher, contact details are given. Otherwise, orders should be placed with your usual supplier.

BOOKS
For further titles of books on stick insects written for children, visit the web site: www.amazon. co.uk and search for stick insects. This should reveal additional titles (often American) to those listed below. A Step-by-Step Book about Stick Insects Alderton, D. 2002 ISBN 0866223495 2.85 TFH Publications A beginners book, well illustrated in colour; short notes on 6 species and mention of others. 64 pages, hardback, 220 mm x 145 mm. Rearing Stick and Leaf Insects Baxter, R.N. 2002 ISBN 0951921932 22 (plus 1.50 p&p) Chudleigh Publishing 45 Chudleigh Gardens Seven Kings Ilford IG3 9AT A very comprehensive hardback publication with 112 colour photographs, descriptions and culturing details of 49 species. A photograph and description of each species is followed by helpful information about breeding and maintaining stocks. This is definitely a book for the enthusiast rather than the beginner. Rearing and Studying Stick and Leaf Insects Brock, P.D. 1992 ISBN 0900054549 5.20 (including p&p) AES Publications 1 Tower Hill Brentwood Essex CM14 4TA Tel: 01277 224610 Fax: 01277 262815 E-mail: CrantzPtg@compuserve.com A low-cost guide for the beginner or more experienced rearer, with detailed notes on 17 species widely bred in captivity and brief notes on over 55 other species. 79 pages with figures and black and white plates. Paperback A5. The Amazing World of Stick and Leaf Insects Brock, P.D. 1999 ISBN 0900054638 AES Publications (see above) 15.20 (including p&p) A comprehensive guide to everything you want to know about stick and leaf insects. Although suitable for beginners, it provides a wealth of information to interest the enthusiast. Contents include fascinating facts, life history and development, collecting, preserving, breeding, taxonomic studies, notes on species from around the world and fossils. 182 pages with numerous figures/black and white plates + 40 pages of colour plates. Hardback A5. 30

A Complete Guide to Breeding Stick and Leaf Insects Brock, P.D. 2000 ISBN 1852791241 TFH Kingdom 12.95 This book has comprehensive notes on 11 commonly-reared species, plus numerous colour photographs of these and other species. It is suitable for the beginner or more-experienced rearer. In addition to information about breeding, there are useful sections on housing, feeding and trouble-shooting. 64 pages, hardback. Keeping Stick Insects Floyd, D. 1994 ISBN 0951246607 Floyd Publishing (from Small-Life Supplies - see Appendix 2 Suppliers of livestock and equipment) 6.99 (plus 4.94 p & p) This is written in an easy style and includes a general description of the anatomy and behaviour of stick insects in general with insightful descriptions of the care of 7 common species. Line drawings are supplemented with 8 colour photographs. 60 pages, paperback. Bug Books: Stick Insects Hartley, K. & Macro, C. 1999/2000 ISBN: hardback 0431016860; paperback 0431016941 Heinemann Library Price 8.99 hardback or 5.50 paperback Answers to a number of simple questions, illustrated with colour photographs, designed for primary schools; 32 pages. Although some information is inaccurate, it contains some interesting pictures.

VIDEO RECORDING
Stick and Leaf Insects. A Novices Guide to Keeping Phasmids VHS/PAL. 12.00 including p&p. GK Video PO Box 213 Grimsby DN36 5ZG Tel: 01472 811808 Fax: 01472 811808 Email: Web site: A well-made, 32 minute video, containing much good advice.

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Appendix 5 A d-i-y cage for stick insects

An exploded view of the component parts

To make this cage you will need the following materials.

Quantity A B C D E F G 1 piece 1 piece 1 length 1 length 4 lengths 2 lengths 1 piece 8 8 8 1 piece 1 tube 1 piece 1 Item Melamine-coated chipboard Melamine-coated chipboard Softwood, painted gloss white Softwood, painted gloss white Softwood, painted gloss white Softwood, painted gloss white 6 mm thick glass with polished edges Chipboard screws Screw caps for above Panel pins Nylon mesh or net curtain material Woodwork adhesive Hardboard Round-headed screw with washers 32 Dimensions 300 mm x 284 mm x 15 mm 300 mm x 300 mm x 15 mm 260 mm x 10 mm x 10 mm 200 mm x 10 mm x 10 mm 600 mm x 20 mm x 20 mm 630 mm x 20 mm x 10 mm 600 mm x 300 mm 40 mm 10 mm Enough to cover three sides of the cage 30 mm x 15 mm 25 mm

Assembly instructions (Note: You may need to adjust the dimensions of items given in the table overleaf, depending on the materials available locally.) 1 Fix the four pieces of timber E to the corners of the underside of A, using chipboard screws. Countersink and cap the heads.

2 3

Fix item C to fit between the front uprights. Use adhesive and four panel pins to fix it in position as shown above. Screw the other ends of uprights E to the base, B, so that one pair is 15 mm from the front edge as shown below. Again, countersink and cap the screws.

4 5

Fix the wood strip D in the same way as C, positioning it in the centre of the space between the two uprights E. Make sure all sharp edges on the glass have been polished by the supplier. Carefully place it in position; it may be necessary to twist the framework so that it fits snugly.
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Glue the timber strips F to the top (A) and base (B) [as shown in the diagrams overleaf] on each side of the glass, to stop it sliding out from the sides of the cage. Use the piece of hardboard and round-headed screw to make a catch to hold the top edge of the glass in place.

Cut out three pieces of nylon mesh or net curtaining material to fit over the back and sides of the cage. Glue them in position using adhesive such as UHU Contact, Evostik Safe 80 or Time Bond. Alternatively, a cool-melt glue gun can be used. When keeping insects that require high humidity, one or more sides can be covered with polythene or acetate sheet, in place of or in addition to, the netting. It can be fixed with glue or held in place with strips of wood fixed to the uprights (E) with panel pins.

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Appendix 6 Web sites dedicated to stick insects

There are many web sites set up by commercial organisations as well as individual enthusiasts. This is a developing area and subject to rapid changes. A visit to the web site of one of the established organisations will soon lead you on to other specialist sites. In addition to the sites listed under entries in Appendices 2 and 3, the following may be of interest.
Amateur Entomologists' Society Australian Museum Phasmid Factsheets Bug Club Bugs in Cyberspace Earthlife Field Guide to the Stick Insects of Australia Phasmid Study Group The Sticklist Tony & Charlottes Stick Insect Page Tree of Life (search for phasmid) www.theaes.org www.amonline.net.au/factsheets/phasmids.htm www.ex.ac.uk/bugclub www.bugsincyberspace.com www.earthlife.net/insects/ www.acay.com.au/~pmiller/ www.stickinsect.org.uk www.exotics.net/sticklist/ www.woodbat.co.uk/stick.htm www.tolweb.org/tree/phylogeny.html

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