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Product Data
Characteristics
Cationic moieties have typically been associated with hair care for conditioning. In this application, they impart lubricity, antistatic properties and smoothness to the hair bers. These properties plus excellent emulsifying properties, substantivity to the skin, renewable raw materials and a good cost/performance ratio are increasing the interest in these well known ingredients for skin care applications. As the use of cationic emulsiers grows, there is increasing interest in expanding the sensory options available by modifying the cationic moiety in a formulation. In selecting a cationic emulsier, there are some points to consider:
Long chain or dialkyl quaternaries are milder on the skin than shorter chain monoalkyl analogues [2]. The hydrophilic/lipophilic ratio must be appropriate for the components in the formula. Long chain cationics are better emulsiers. Cationics may be used alone or with co-emulsiers. These emulsiers are safe for use in skin care formulations.
Excellent performance proles recommend the use of three cationic materials as emulsiers in skin care products: VARISOFT TA 100, VARISOFT PATC and TEGO Care CE 40. VARISOFT TA 100 (INCI: Distearyldimonium Chloride) is a dialkyl quaternary, while VARISOFT PATC (INCI: Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) and TEGO Care CE 40 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) are amidoamine quaternaries. TEGO Care CE 40 use level is higher than its pasty counterpart, but TEGO Care CE 40 offers better handling properties in the laboratory and plant settings.
Product
VARISOFT TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride)
Type
Dialkyl quat
Structure [3]
+ CH3 CH3 (CH2) 16CH2 N CH2(CH2)16CH3 CICH3
VARISOFT PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) TEGO Care CE 40 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride)
Amidoamine quat
+ O CH2 (CH2) 14C NH(CH2)3 CH3 N CH3 CH3 CI-
Formula 1
Applications
Daily Wear
O/W cationic emulsion systems are used in facial, hand & body, baby, foot care and rst aid products on the market. The unique sensory effects of this type of system are readily perceived by consumers and make these products well suited for daily wear to protect and care for the skin.
Protection
Test Formulation
A Emulsier TEGO Alkanol 16 (Cetyl Alcohol) TEGOSOFT OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) Petrolatum B Glycerin Preservative Water 5.00 % 4.00 % 5.00 % 5.00 % 6.00 % q.s. ad 100
Figure 2
Test lotions were applied to the back of the forearm twice a day. The amount applied was 2 mg/cm2. Corneometer readings were taken hourly. TEGIN Pellets were selected as representative of a common emulsier system. The results indicate that during the initial 8 hours of the study the TEGIN Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate SE) showed an increased performance but fast decline. In contrast, the cationic VARISOFT TA 100 shoed long last in performance. After more than 9 hours the cationic lm showed superior performance. The rate of moisture loss is 2.6 times less with VARISOFT TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride). This result is most likely due to VARISOFT TA 100s ability to form a substantive durable lm on the skin.
25 20 15 10 5 0
10
12
14
16
18
20
Guideline formulation
Several formulations have been made using cationic emulsiers in the daily wear category. This includes the use of actives:
Formula 3: O/W cationic emulsion for use in a pump foamer suited to whole body application containing VARISOFT PATC and TEGO Cosmo C 100
Modifying Aesthetics
Cationic emulsiers are used as primary emulsiers and add versatility to complex formulation needs as a secondary emulsier. Even at low levels, the sensory prole of cationic moieties is consumer perceivable. For example, using 1 % of a cationic emulsier in combination with a nonionic emulsier can impart a powdery dry feel to the system.
Formula 4: Skin care formula with unique sensory properties and long lasting effects
Long lasting Cationic Cream with moisturizing effect (F 18/03-5) A VARISOFT TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) TEGO Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) TEGO Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) TEGOSOFT CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) TEGOSOFT Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) B Glycerin Water Z Preservative, Parfum 2.00 % 1.00 % 2.00 % 1.00 % 10.00 % 9.00 % 3.00 % 72.00 % q.s.
Formula 5: O/W emulsion containing VARISOFT TA 100 as the primary emulsier and TEGO Care 450 as secondary emulsier
Silky Cationic Soft Cream (F 18/03-8) A VARISOFT PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) ABIL Care 85 (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 Dimethicone; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) TEGO Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) TEGOSOFT CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) TEGOSOFT Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) B Glycerin Water Z Preservative, Parfum 2.0 % 1.0 % 4.0 % 2.0 % 8.0 % 8.0 % 3.0 % 72.0 % q.s.
Formula 6: O/W cationic emulsion containing VARISOFT PATC as the primary emulsier and ABIL Care 85 as secondary emulsier
O/W Facial Moisturizer (ADP-5615-46) A TEGO Care CE 40 (Cetearyl Alcohol; Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) TEGO Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) TEGOSOFT MM (Myristyl Myristate) TEGOSOFT OS (Ethylhexyl Stearate) TEGOSOFT CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Apricot (Prunus Armeniaca) Oil Tocopheryl Acetate B Glycerin Water C LACTIL (Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid) Z Preservative, Parfum 1.5 % 2.0 % 2.0 % 1.0 % 9.0 % 10.0 % 3.7 % 0.3 % 3.0 % 65.5 % 2.0 % q.s.
Formula 7: O/W cationic emulsion containing TEGO Care 450 as primary emulsier and TEGO Care CE 40 system as a sensory enhancer
Combining a cationic emulsier with a silicone O/W emulsier creates an emulsion that has a powdery velvety skin feel.
O/W Silky Cationic Cream (F18/03-9) A VARISOFT TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) ABIL Care 85 (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 Dimethicone (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) TEGO Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) TEGOSOFT CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) TEGOSOFT Liquid (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate) B Glycerin Water Z Preservative, Parfum 2.00 % 1.0 % 2.50 % 1.50 % 9.00 % 9.00 % 3.00 % 72.00 % q.s.
Formula 8: Skin care formula combining the protecting properties of VARISOFT TA 100 and the unique silky skin feel of ABIL Care 85
VARISOFT TA 100
TEGO Care PS
ABIL EM 90
Figure 4
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Figure 5: A strong sand-repellent formula (left) compared to a weak sand-repellent formula (right)
Cationic O/W Sun Cream with balanced UV protection system SPF* 18 (Ma 47/04-4) A VARISOFT TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) TEGO Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) TEGOSOFT TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) TEGOSOFT DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) TEGOSOFT CR (Cetyl Ricinoleate) TEGOSOFT TIS (Triisostearin) TEGO Sun TDEC 45 (Titanium Dioxide; Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate) Octocrylene Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane B Glycerin Water Z Preservative, Parfum 3.5 % 2.0 % 1.0 % 5.0 % 3.5 % 1.0 % 1.0 % 5.0 % 3.0 % 4.0 % 2.0 % 3.0 % 66.0 % q.s.
Formula 9: O/W cationic sunscreen VARISOFT TA 100 emulsion which illustrates sand repellency property as seen in gure 5
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Water Resistance
Water resistance is an important factor in sun care formulas, especially those intended to be used at the pool or on the beach. Data from an in-vitro water resistance study conducted according to a protocol that is under preparation by the Latin sun screen producers group [5] supports the benets of cationic emulsiers in this application. The study evaluated the water resistance of three O/W emulsiers and one W/O system: Ceteareth-25, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Distearyldimonium Chloride and Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate. The lter system used in all formulations was Menthyl Anthranilate (4 %), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (5 %) and Ethylhexyl Salicylate (4 %). It is well known that O/W systems are less water resistant than W/O systems (See formulation numbers 1 and 2). This is due primarily to O/W emulsions tendency to re-emulsify in the presence of water. But VARISOFT TA 100 which is an O/W emulsier does not show this tendency because of its strong substantivity to the skin. The following measurements were made and the results are indicated in Figure 6:
Formulation Number
1 2
Emulsier
TEGINACID C (Ceteareth-25) TEGO Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate VARISOFT TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) ISOLAN GPS (Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate)
Emulsion type
O/W
WR* [%]
70
O/W O/W
90 100
3 4
W/O
100
Figure 6: *In-vitro water-resistance (WR) test (Optometrics SPF-290S; 1 mg/cm2; on PMMA slide)
The tests are performed featured the following [5] PMMA Hlioplates as substrate Stirring method in water-lled beaker In-vitro testing by the Diffey Optometrics or the Kockott Sunscreen Tester
Under these test conditions cationic emulsions are 100 % water resistant without lm-forming additives, and are comparable to their W/O counterparts.
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Cationic Sun Protection Cream SPF 12/Star rating: 1 (Ma 46/04-3) A VARISOFT TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) TEGO Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) TEGOSOFT TN/TN 2 (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) TEGOSOFT DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) TEGOSOFT CR (Cetyl Ricinoleate) TEGOSOFT TIS (Triisostearin) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl Salicylate Menthyl Anthranilate B TEGO Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) Glycerin Water Z Preservative, Parfum 3.50 % 1.50 % 1.00 % 5.00 % 3.00 % 1.00 % 1.00 % 5.00 % 4.00 % 4.00 % 0.50 % 3.00 % 67.50 % q.s.
Formula 10: This formulation utilizes a cationic emulsier to alter the sensory prole of a high oil containing sunscreen. The cationic emulsier also aids in maintaining a very high water resistance.
Cationic Sun Protection Cream SPF 28/Star rating: 3 (Ma 46/04-2) A VARISOFT TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) TEGO Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) TEGOSOFT TN /TN 2 (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) TEGOSOFT DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) TEGOSOFT CR (Cetyl Ricinoleate) TEGOSOFT TIS (Triisostearin) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Menthyl Anthranilate B TEGO Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) Glycerin Water Z Preservative, Parfum 3.50 % 1.50 % 1.00 % 5.00 % 3.00 % 1.00 % 1.00 % 7.00 % 2.00 % 4.00 % 0.50 % 3.00 % 67.50 % q.s.
Formula 11: This formulation utilizes a cationic emulsier to alter the sensory prole of a high oil containing sunscreen.
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Cationic Sun Care Cream SPF* 14 Water Resistant (CL03/06-2A) A VARISOFT PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) TEGOSOFT TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) TEGOSOFT DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) TEGO Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) TEGO Sun TDEC 45 (Titanium Dioxide; Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate) Octocrylene Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl Salicylate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane B Glycerin Water Z Preservatives 1.2 % 2.6 % 3.0 % 1.0 % 2.8 % 4.4 % 5.0 % 5.0 % 3.0 % 2.0 % 3.0 % 67.0 % q.s.
Formula 12: O/W cationic emulsion containing VARISOFT PATC and TEGO Sun TDEC 45. The cationic emulsier also aids in maintaining a very high water resistance.
Light O/W Day Cream for Men with UV Protection (ADP-5615-84) A TEGO Care CE 40 (Cetearyl Alcolhol (and) Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate ) VARISOFT TA-100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) TEGOSOFT TN 2 (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) TEGOSOFT DEC (Diethylhexyl Carbonate) TEGOSOFT CR (Cetyl Ricinoleate) TEGOSOFT TIS (Triisostearin) TEGO Sun TDEC 45 (Titanium Dioxide; Diethylhexyl Carbonate; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate) B Glycerin Water C Preservative 2.5 % 2.5 % 2.5 % 8.0 % 7.5 % 1.0 % 1.0 % 10.0 % 3.0 % 62.0 % q.s.
Formula 13: O/W cationic emulsion utilized both the TEGO Care CE 40 and VARISOFT TA 100 for an extra light skin feel.
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Cationic Foundation CE 1 (ADP-5615-145) A Titanium Dioxide (micronized/silicone treated) Talc (silicone treated) Cyclomethicone Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (TEGOSOFT Liquid) Polydecene B Polydecene Iron Oxides (micronized/silicone treated) C Cyclomethicone Phenyl Trimethicone D Glycerin Water Sodium Chloride Cetearyl Alcohol; Palmitamidopropyltimonium Chloride (TEGO Care CE 40) Preservatives 6.00 % 4.00 % 9.00 % 2.00 % 2.00 % 2.60 % 0.90 % 9.00 % 1.50 % 6.00 % q.s. 0.50 % 5.00 % q.s.
Formula 14: O/W cationic foundation utilized TEGO Care CE 40 as sole emulsier and lends a powdery skin feel.
Conclusion
Cationic emulsiers offer the formulator a new tool in developing products which meet consumer demands. The unique properties of cationic emulsiers enable the development of high lipophilic systems that offer enhanced consumer benets without sacricing aesthetics. Cationic emulsions lend a smooth powdery skin feel that nonionic and anionic emulsions do not. Applications which benet from this technology include facial, hand and body, baby and foot care, sunscreens, and other systems where a non-oily, high lipophilic system is an advantage. Cationic emulsiers offer these benets:
Excellent emulsication Combination with co-emulsiers offer various possibilities to inuence skin feel and absorption behavior Long-lasting skin moisturization Water resistance properties Renewable resources Excellent cost/performance ratio
References
[1] Beauty Aids Report. Chain Drug Review, January (20), 2003, 18. [2] Jungermann, Eric. Cationic Surfactants. Marcel Dekker Inc, 1970, 527 613. [3] CTFA. 2000. April 2002. <http://www.ctfa-online.org> [4] Klein, Ken. Cationic Emulsiers: A Most Underutilized Category. Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine Vol. 117, No. 12 (Dec), 2002, 21 23. [5] Latin Sun Screen Group, work unpublished (Status of February 2006). For more information about the products and additional guideline formulations go to www.evonik.com/personal-care
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Headofce
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This information and all further technical advice are based on Evonik Goldschmidt GmbHs present knowledge and experience. However, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH assumes no liability for providing such information and advice including the extent to which such information and advice may relate to existing third party intellectual property rights, especially patent rights. In particular, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH disclaims ALL CONDITIONS AND WARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OF PROFITS) OF ANY KIND. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH reserves the right to make any changes according to technological progress or further developments. It is the customers responsibility and obligation to carefully inspect and test any incoming goods. Performance of the product(s) described herein should be veried by testing and carried out only by qualied experts. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to carry out and arrange for any such testing. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor an endorsement of any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008)
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03/2008
Inv.-Nr.: 21-08