KHADI

TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction Regions Producers Communities Raw Materials Tools Production Process The Existing Khadi Set-Up Use of the Product Appendix 2 2 2 2 4 6 13 13 14

1. Introduction Khadi is hand spun and hand woven fabric made largely out of natural fibers like wool, cotton and silk. Mahatma Gandhi helped popularize the fabric and made it into a potent symbol in Indias freedom struggle. Khadi also became a symbol of the resurgence of Indias rural industries. Today, Khadi remains an important cottage industry, providing livelihoods to millions, especially in rural areas. The hand spun yarn used in Khadi maintains a softness that gives Khadi its characteristic feel and comfort. The hand weaving of the fabric interlaces the threads in a manner that allows maximum air to permeate through the fibers and thus, Khadi is one of the most comfortable fabrics in warm climates. As Khadi is made of natural fibers viz. cotton, silk and wool, spun and woven in a natural environment, it can boast of being completely natural. Other fabrics from mills or even handlooms, receive yarn which is generally blended with some regenerated cellulose fibers. Khadi dyed in natural dyes also makes a perfect combination for a green, ecofriendly fabric. Khadi and handlooms are often confused as being the same, but they are not. Khadi is hand spun and hand woven fabric. In other handloom fabrics, the yarn is machine spun. Recent years has seen additions to the traditional Khadi line-up such as poly-Khadi. Poly-Khadi fabric uses blended synthetic fibers rather than the traditional handspun thread. 2. Regions It is spread across the country. However, this specific documentation is based on the Khadi weavers of Rajasthan 3. Producers Communities People involved in weaving are commonly known as bunkar. In Rajasthan, the communities mostly involved in the process are Meghwals and Zulahas. The KVIC (Khadi and Village Industries Commission) and Khadi Societies, which produce Khadi fabric at a commercial level, have no caste and community bars. Spinning is generally done by women, and men usually do the weaving. 4. Raw Materials The main raw materials are cotton, wool and silk. A synthetic fiber called polyester is also used to produce poly-Khadi but this fabric is produced on a much smaller scale than the traditional Khadi fabrics. As this document is prepared in Rajasthan it mainly gives insights on cotton and woolen Khadi. 4.1 Cotton There are different counts of cotton yarn required for the warp and the weft. The specifications for these yarns are:
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For warp: Khadi weaving contains an entire range of fabric so the yarn used ranges from 2/20s to 2/40s in the warp. For shirting fabrics 2/20s and 2/32s are used; for suiting 2/40s and 2/32s. Twisted yarn is used in the warp to resist the stress during weaving. The cost of yarn for the warp ranges from Rs 60 to Rs 200 per kg. (Figures as of Jan 2005) For weft: In the weft single yarns are used. Counts range from 4s to 40s. The cost of yarn ranges from Rs 80 to Rs 130 per kg. Cotton fiber costs in the range of Rs 20 to Rs 30 per kg, depends upon the quality and the availability. (Figures as of Jan 2005)

Pic: Cotton yarn 4.2 Wool In Khadi only handspun yarn is used which is not very even and fine. Local desi wool gives a coarser yarn; when imported merino is used, a finer yarn can be obtained. In woolen Khadi from 2nm to 10nm woolen yarn is used. The cost of wool depends on whether Indian desi wool is used, or merino imported from Australia or New Zealand. Fine desi wool ranges between Rs 90 Rs 110 per kg and coarse desi starts from as low as Rs 50 - Rs 60 per kg. On the other hand fine merino ranges between Rs200 - Rs 250 per kg and the coarse merino may start from Rs 150 per kg. (Figures as of Jan 2005)

Pic: Hand spun woolen yarn

Raw Material Procurement: Raw material for the process is readily available with local dealers and the Khadi Societies. It has to be processed further in order to make it suitable for using in the operations of weaving. These operations are stated below. 5. Tools 5.1. Pit Loom or Ground Loom or Horizontal Loom, popularly known as Khadi: On a horizontal ground loom, the warp would be strung between two rows of pegs. The weaver would have to lean over in order to work, so the pit loom was developed. With the warp strung over a pit, the weaver could now sit with his or her legs underneath, thus being on level with the loom. The horizontal loom is the oldest and simplest weaving set, made of wood or metal. Wooden frames are fixed on the ground by metallic nails, which are used as halter and mooring devices. The nails can be taken off and the loom transferred to another place. . Small rugs and thick blankets are woven on these looms. The horizontal loom costs between Rs 4,000 and Rs 6,000 (Figures as of Jan 2005) and many Khadi weavers use it. 5.2. Frame Loom or Vertical Loom: Frame looms basically follow the same principles as ground looms. The loom is constructed out of sticks and boards attached at right angles (producing a box-like shape), which means that it is portable and can even be held on the weaver's lap. Beams of the loom are called roblers and the foot pedals at the bottom of the loom for controlling the operation of the heddle harness is known as treadles.

Pic: Wooden Frame Loom A frame loom costs between Rs 12000 to Rs 14000 with iron angles, and Rs 15000 to Rs 16000(dated 26th Jan, 05) with wooden angles. Most of the Khadi weavers using frame looms use iron angles, as they require less maintenance. 5.3. Charkha and Takali: Transformation of fiber into yarn is done with the help of takali or hand operated Gandhi Charkha. The Khadi & Village Industries Commission has also approved a modified hand operated charkha called the Ambar Charkha with

better output particularly with cotton. A charkha is also used for making rolls or bundles of yarn for the weft on bobbin.

Pic: Charkha 5.4. Bobbin: A bobbin is a small wooden stick, on which the yarn is rolled, to be used on the loom for weaving.

Pic: Bobbins 5.5. Scissors: Scissors are used for finishing that is to remove the protruding fibers from the final fabric.

Pic: Scissor
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6. Production Process The spinning of the thread on the charkha precedes the weaving of Khadi. After this the yarn goes to the bobbin winder, warper, sizer and finally to the weaver. Spinning is mostly done by the girls and women in the villages, while weaving is done by men. Because of the labor involved, the price of Khadi cloth when it reaches the shops is more than that of other fabrics. The production process of Khadi fabric can be widely categorized in three steps spinning, dyeing and weaving. The fabric is hand spun and hand woven. In a broader sense the production of Khadi includes cotton growing, picking, ginning, cleaning, carding, slivering, spinning, sizing, dyeing, preparing the warp and woof, weaving and winding. These, with the exception of dyeing, are essential processes every one of which can be effectively handled in the villages.

Pic: Charkha Carding: It is a process in which the fiber that is in loose state, is opened, separated and made free of external matter if any. Basically combing of fiber is called carding, which is done by bows. This operation makes the fibers straight and aligned. The yarn at this stage is called web. Now the fiber is ready to be converted into yarn. 6.1 Spinning The carded fiber is taken and bursted with the help of a hand-operated charkha, to produce yarn of various thickness and counts. The process is called hand spinning. It is done on the takali, Gandhi charkha or Ambar charkha. The thread is then wound on a small stick called a bobbin. In Khadi production, spinners supported by KVIC or other Khadi Societies generally do the spinning.

Pic: Spinning 6.1.1. Silk Making yarn from silk fibers involves various techniques. There are three processes to cater for the three types of fiber obtained from different parts of the single cocoon. The rough outer layer of fiber is pulled off the cocoon and accumulated to create a bundle that can be hung overhead and pulled down to be twisted by a drop spindle. The inner filament is reeled off the cocoon by hand and spun on the thigh, before it is twisted onto a reel. Between 6 and 12 cocoon filaments are plied together creating a fine thread suitable for weaving. The remaining fiber comes from the peduncle, which attaches the cocoon to the tree. This tough material is soaked in water and then pounded before spinning by drop spindle. The resulting yarn is coarser and darker than the others. The silk cost to the weavers is Rs 1400 to Rs 1600 per kg, and is made available to them mostly by the Khadi Societies with which these weavers are usually associated. 6.1.2 Cotton Mostly women are involved in the time-consuming spinning process. Cotton spinning is done with the help of takali or hand operated Gandhi Charkha. The Khadi & Village Industries Commission has also approved a modified hand operated charkha called the Ambar Charkha with better output particularly with cotton. No scouring is required in cotton as this is cellulose fiber, which contains no protein and grease. 6.1.3 Wool Well-carded wool is bursted with the help of a hand-operated charkha and given the required twisting to get the appropriate thickness and count. 6.2 Garneting To remove the impurities from the woolen fiber it is treated in a solution of H2SO4 + HNO3 before scouring.

6.3 Scouring It is a chemical process and the objective of the scouring is to remove the natural and acquired adventitious impurities, present in the woolen yarn. The natural grease, wool wax and dried perspiration are natural impurities present in the yarn; dust, dirt, oil etc are acquired impurities. These are all removed in the scouring process. Generally an alkali free, neutral soap along with a small quantity of soda ash is used in this process. Scouring makes the yarn clean, smooth, white and more receptive to dyes. All these process is then followed by drying and oiling to remove the friction from the fiber. 6.4 Designing In most of the cases designs are provided by the agencies placing the order with the weavers as per the current trend. Often they are inspired by the weavers themselves, based on traditional designs found in the region. 6.5 Dyeing Dyeing can be carried out at any of the following stages: The fibers can be dyed before they are spun. Fiber dyeing provides a deep penetration of the dye into the fiber, giving even color and excellent color-fastness. The yarn can also be dyed after spinning but before the product is woven or otherwise fabricated. This is called package dyeing. Before the fabric is finished, it can be dyed in lengths (piece dyeing). This process allows manufacturers the opportunity to produce fabrics in their natural colors, and then dye them to order. In cross-dyeing (cotton and wool) fabrics of two or more fibers can be dyed so that each fiber accepts a different dyestuff and becomes a different color, through the use of appropriate dyestuffs for each fiber. Khadi weavers employ both the process of dyeing vegetable dyes and Chemical dyes to color yarn, fiber or fabric but in Rajasthan mostly Vegetable dyeing is being practiced. 6.5.1 Natural Dyes Natural dyes are mainly obtained from animal or vegetative materials with no or very little chemical processing. The coloring matter is taken from the roots stems, barks, leaves or flowers of bushes, herbs or shrubs. Types of Vegetable Dyes Used: On the basis of the method of application, vegetable dyes can be classified into two categories, viz Substantive Dyes: They dye the fiber without any additive e.g.: turmeric ( haldi), Babool chilka, Pomegranate peels (Anar chilka), Henna (Mehandi), Catachu (Katha) etc.

Mordant Dyes: Some vegetable dyes have no direct affinity for the fiber; they adhere to the fiber only with the help of a mordant which is generally a metal salt. The mordant may be added to the dye in the dyebath (kundi) itself or applied separately. Madder (Majith), Indigo (Neel), Hararh are examples of the mordant dyes. The weavers use tanks and big vessels for dyeing. Dyes which they use commonly are turmeric (haldi), Babool chilka, Pomegranate peels (Anar chilka), Henna (Mehandi), Catachu (Katha), Madder (Majith), Indigo (Neel), Hararh, Marigold, Onions, Walnut Husks, etc. The mordants required by them are Alum, Copper Sulphate, Chrome, Tin, Oxalic Acid, Tartar, Acetic Acid, etc.

Pic: Chart of vegetable dyes Vat dyeing is the simplest form of dyeing; material is immersed in dye and gradually brought to a boil. Alternatively the fiber is allowed to sit and soak for several hours or days. During this period, agitation is necessary to allow full penetration of the fiber by the dyestuff. Depending on the type of fabric and dyestuff used, certain salts or acids are added to assist absorption of the dye.

Pic: Dyed cotton

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i) Cotton: VAT DYEING

Yarn

Roll

Wetting

In cold Water Coloring matter in 80 C water + VAT dyes

Bleaching & scouring (for impurity)

Drying

ii)

Dyeing Process (wool) - ACIDIC (fabric) DYEING

Fabric wetted in cold water

Spinner (centrifuge)

80 C water + Glaubs Salt + Chemicals Stirring Wet clothes one at a time

Wash in cold water

Drying

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iii)

Dyeing Process (wool)- ACIDIC (yarn) DYEING

Yarn (15 kg.) wetted in cold water (3 quintals) + 100 g. Isapol +100 g. soda

Washing & Drying

80 C water + 500 g. Glaubs Salt + 1 kg. acid + 250 g. acetic acid

Stirring Dyeing (200 g. in 3 liters water)

Wash in cold water

Drying

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iv)

Dyeing Process (wool) - METAL COMPLEX DYEING

Washing fabric (to remove impurity) Scouring Milling

Washing

Dyeing (with metal complex dyes)

Stunting (drying) Pressing Finishing

Some other processes of dyeing which are practiced by the weavers are mentioned above. Prior to the dyeing process, the weavers usually test the prepared dyes on their hands to check the shade of the color. 6.6 Weaving The fabric formation from the yarn is known as weaving. It is the interlacement of warp and weft. Warp is length-wise or longitudinal yarn (taana) and weft is breadthwise or horizontal yarn (baana). The process of weaving is done on manually operated looms to produce Khadi fabric. In practice, the basic purpose of the loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The first step in weaving is to stretch the warp yarns, which must be very strong. The process is called beaming. The weft or woof filling crosses the warp, binding the warp threads at either side to form the selvage. The three essential steps after the warp is stretched are: shedding, or raising every alternate warp yarn or set of yarns to receive the weft; picking, or inserting the weft; and battening, or pressing home the weft to make the fabric compact. In Khadi weaving all these operations are performed by hand.

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6.7 Washing and Finishing After the weaving on the loom, the fabric that comes out is known as gray fabric. Gray fabric contains some impurities and requires treatments like washing, calendaring, finishing, etc. Finishing is usually done at some nearby finishing plants.

Pic: Gray cloth 7. The existing Khadi set-up The Khadi Societies procure wool / cotton / silk fiber and distribute it to the women spinners at the village centers. These women spin the fiber into yarn in their homes on traditional or modern spinning machines. The yarn is then passed on to the weavers for weaving on handlooms. Both fabric and yarn dyeing are done. Finishing of the fabric is done at a finishing plant usually in a small town. For stitched products like garments or small furnishing items, stitching is done in house at the Society. The finished product is packed and sent to rural and urban marketing outlets of Khadi Societies. The major chunk of marketing is done by various outlets of the Khadi Societies spread across the country. As the fabric is a fashion statement nowadays It is also used by renowned designers and marketed by designer Boutiques and export houses as well. 8. Use of the Product Khadi fabrics and their products come in a wide variety. While the fabrics are available, finished products are also marketed. Mahatma Gandhi turned Khadi into a symbol of the National Struggle. The legacy is still visible in the white Khadi kurtas worn by the political leadership in the country. Khadi is also considered a fabric that embodies purity and simplicity in India. Of late, Khadi has been used by leading fashion designers, and is coming to be seen as a fashion statement. The same versatility of the fabric also lends itself for use as furnishings. For apparel as well as furnishings, Khadi has a small but discerning export market as well.

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8.1 Woolen: Furnishing fabrics, cushions, blankets, throw, bags, shawls, 8.2 Cotton: Upholstery, shirting, bedspreads, curtains, table linen and kitchen linen 8.3 Silk: Saris, shirting, dress material 9. Appendix Report from Textile Committee Reports from Khadi Society Ajmer, Rajasthan Reports from Rajasthan State Handloom Development Corporation (RSHDC) http://www.ruda.org.in/ www.indiamart.com

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