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Acknowledgement

Apart from the researchers efforts, the success of any project depends largely on the encouragement and guidelines of many others. We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of this project. First and foremost we would like to thank Ms. Bharti Moitra, our faculty guide for guiding, motivating, encouraging and supporting us all through the project. Her prompt reply to our queries and valuable suggestions contributed tremendously to our project. We arealso grateful to the 1st year students of MFM department, NIFT, Kolkata who showed their serious attention to the survey.

Abhinow Kumar Ambica Beri Kirti Dhingra Richa Sinha Alino Abonmai

Table of Contents TOPIC EXECUTIVE SUMMARY INTRODUCTION RESEARCH PURPOSE &OBJECTIVES DESIGN IN INDIA DESIGN INDUSTRY STATISTICS DESIGN EDUCATION SCOPE OF THE RESEARCH HISTORICAL BACKGROUND SOURCES AND METHODS OF COLLECTING INFORMATION FINDINGS AND OBSERVATIONS CONCLUSION BIBLIOGRAPHY

Executive Summary
Design activities in India are carried out by in-house designers Employed by businesses. Another component is the consultancies /studios offering specialized design services i.e. the Design Industry. The report presented here focuses on the design industry. The design domains considered in this report are FashionDesign , Apparel Design +Textile + Jewellery + Leather Design, Graphic Design (Digitial) &Newmedia design, + Retail Design. From the survey forms for many companies from the design industry.In addition to the survey we collected a lot of information through Primary Data ( asking questions from individuals ) secondary data like ( books , magazines, internet etc) Design industry is characterized by small to medium sized firms. Many of them are one to five people operations. Of these many are founded recently. There are a few well organized design companies with higher employment rate. These firms offer multiple specialties and serve moreor less as onestop-shop for design needs. Majority of design activities is focused in 4 cities viz. Mumbai, Delhi,Bangalore and Pune. Design activities are urban in character.India is one the few countries to have formulated and adopted aNational Design Policy. It recently constituted an India Design Council to implement the major provisions of National Design Policy.

Design education has seen a spurt of growth in the last 5 years or so with many private institutions getting initiated. Till before 5 years,the design education landscape was characterized by Government supported institutions only, which were few in numbers for a country aslarge as India. Lately the Indian Design companies have been entering into collaboration with foreign design companies. This number is minisculeat present, but the trend is visible. Many foreign design companies are setting up offices in India on their own. There are a few already here, mainly in the area of branding and communication.

Introduction We live in interesting times defined by exponential change. We have increasingly learned to adapt to this change, but are yet to fully learn to accept it. This has lead to massive economic and social upheavals during current times. In our quest for industrialization followed by knowledge and service commoditization, we nearly forgot society. People who are still impoverished, people with special needs, people with low incomes are still unsaved, causing anxiety and extreme reactions. Design is a perfect response to bind people together and to elevate human life through harmonious synchronization of needs and solution. Design is something that makes business and social sense at the same time. In the present and forthcoming scheme of things design certainly has a very important role to play by helping companies and societies to accept and adapt to the changing climate and to capitalize on the change by turning it into an opportunity. Design has evolved from being a vocation dealing with form and function to a new approach of developing business models. Design has also evolved over the past years from being a mere function of styling or aesthetics (where form and function are the focus) to design as a process (where design thinking is integrated into the development process). Today it has become a strategic element and an

innovation leading process. From modest beginning Indian Design Industry is on a maturity curve now. At this juncture it needs a strategic and long term direction to fortify the gains already made. Even though the design industry in India is very small at present, its economic impact is quite high as it helps major industry sectors by augmenting their business value and competitiveness Research & Purpose The current size of Indian fashion industry stands at around US$ 58 Million (2008), is largely unorganized & accounts for barely 0.3 per cent of the international industrys net worth. However, the industry is one of the fastest changing and most dynamic Industries in the world today. With Indian consumer becoming more Fashion conscious, it is the gigantic Indian fashion consuming public that will continue to set the growth trends for its fashion industry. The Industry is expected to more than double &reach US$ 150 million by 2012. The Industry is expected to create additional employment opportunities For over 50,000 skilled professionals like fashion designer, merchandiser etc by 2012. Major disciplines of the industry include fashion design, textile design, leather design, accessory and jewellery design. From our survey, out of the total number of designers working in the Country , this discipline accounts for nearly 1%.

According to our survey more than 3000 students are being enrolledinto these courses. One of the institutions has more than 100 centres across India as Franchised centres. There are others also offering training franchises in these disciplines. Some of the challenges being faced by the Industry include dearth of literature on Indian fashion and textiles, industry is still mostly unorganized, less number of designers developing signature styles.

Historical Background of Indian Designers


1) Manish Malhotra :- is one of India's most successful fashion designers. Malhotra has designed for many leading actresses in Bollywood. He is known in the Indian film industry for his different style and his ability to envision a 'look' for the character. He is known for designing the costumes for Urmila Matondkar in the film Rangeela. Stars including Kajol, Karisma Kapoor, Kareena Kapoor, Rani Mukherji, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan,Priyanka Chopra, Katrina Kaif, Sonam

Kapoor and Preity Zinta have worn his designs. Although he usually designs for women, he designed for Shahrukh Khan in Mohabbatein and Imran Khan in I Hate Luv Storys. He was also asked to design clothes for Michael Jackson when he visited India for a Bollywood show. His designs have been seen in films such as Raja Hindustani, Dilwale Dulhaniya Le Jayenge, Kuch Kuch Hota Hai,Dhadkan and Kaho Naa... Pyaar Hai. Manish has trained fellow designer Surily Goel, who made her debut at Lakme Fashion Week 2006.

In 2005, he began a talk show named The Manish Malhotra Show. 2 )Ritu Kumar :- is one of Indias foremost designers. She has developed a unique style of her own, reflecting the ancient traditions of Indian craftsmanship in a contemporary vocabulary. With a background in an art history and museology, which has enriched her horizons, Ritus understanding of ancient designs and the innovative use of traditional crafts has created a new classicism. Ritu, who began her work with four hand-block printers and two tables in a small village near Calcutta forty years ago, was the first woman to introduce the boutique culture in India under the brand name Ritu. Today she has outlets in 14 cities in India. Ritus boutiques feature a multifaceted showcase encompassing the very best of Indian design, with specially produced range of high fashion garments and accessories using silk, leather and cotton. Ritus range of western and Indian apparel is all about traditions and individual talent, and women across the continents can easily identify with her vision of design. She also is credited as being one of the first Indian designers who was catalytic in bringing a contemporary idiom to several ancient skills and has been a strong force in marketing them to a dynamic modern India. Over the years, Ritu Kumars work as a fashion designer has shown a progression, which has matured beyond textile crafts. She has a unique ability to evolve with each collection into creative styling, translating textures and embellishments into refreshingly new and unexpectedly contemporary silhouettes, making her work particularly relevant from Indias fashion point of worldview. While Ritu Kumars forte lies in traditional Indian clothes that draw heavily on the textile and embroidery heritage of India, she has also evolved another style for the

young buyer, a collection that in her words has redefined traditional handwriting to meet the changing needs of the new generation. The inspiration of these garments is basic Indian motifs, prints and embroideries but with the usage of a wide range of western silhouettes mingled with Indian styles. In 2002 Ritu Kumar, joined by her son Amrish, launched a sub brand Ritu Kumar, LABEL. LABEL uses the established forte of traditional Indian design and converts it into a fashion oriented international product. This is aimed at the young global Indian woman with a contemporary lifestyle. LABEL retails from most Ritu Kumar stores as well as some stand alone stores. Her book Costumes and Textiles of Royal India published by Christies in October 1999 chronicles the history of textiles and art design in India. Ritu has recently been awarded the 'Indira Gandhi Priyadarshini award' for her achievements and contribution in the field of fashion. Mother Teresa, Birju Maharaj, Pt. Hari Prasad were previous recipients of this prestigious award. To add to her achievements the French government has bestowed the prestigious award of "chevalier des arts et des lettres (knight of the order of arts and letters) on veteran designer and revivalist Ritu Kumar. The award is recognition of her contribution to Indian textile crafts, and traditional techniques. In the past, this award has been conferred upon Shahrukh Khan, M Balamurali Krishna, Merryl Streep, Daneille Steele, Leonardo Dicapio, and Anjalie Ela Menon amongst others. Ritu Kumar, has also been awarded the Padma Shri Award 2013, the country's fourth highest civilian award for her exceptional and distinguished service in the field of fashion, textile and craftsmanship.

3) Sabyasachi :- Summer of 1999, Sabyasachi Mukerjee graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology India with three major awards. Four months later, Sabyasachi started his homonymous label which began with a workforce of three persons. Over the years, he has built a clothing brand which has a strong social perspective. In 2001, Sabyasachi won the Femina British Councils most outstanding young Designer of India award, which took him toLondon for an internship with Georgina von Etzdorf, an eclectic designer based in Salisbury. Returning home with edgier ideas, Sabyasachi started retailing at all major stores in India. 2002, Sabyasachi participated at the India Fashion Week where his debut collection earned him positive reviews from the national and international press. On a cover by Women's Wear Daily, he was reckoned as the future of Indian fashion.[citation needed] Spring of 2003, Sabyasachi made his debut on the international runway, with the grand winner award at the Mercedes Benz New Asia Fashion week in Singapore, which paved his way to a workshop in Paris by Jean Paul Gaultier andAzzedine Alaia. His collection "Kora" at the Lakme Fashion Week 2003 won him laudatory reviews where he used unbleached and hand woven fabrics with Kantha and other hand embroideries. He was declared the best Designer of India at the MTV Lycra style awards and won the Society Achievers award for the best new Indian designer. In 2004, Sabyasachi took a step ahead with Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week and The Miami Fashion Week[10] with a bohemian take on Indian textiles and his collection was called "The Frog Princess". His significant achievements included his coveted showing in Browns earning him a retail place at the tiny London store

voted by Vogue as the best shopping destination in the world, thereby establishing himself as one of the most promising young designers for years to come. He earned the distinction of being the only Indian designer to be invited to showcase at the Milan Fashion Week 2004 facilitated by Indo-Italian Chamber Of Commerce. Along with accolades, he was also voted by Asia Inc. a Singapore based Business magazine as one of the ten most influential Indians in Asia, alongside Aishwariya Rai, Priyanka Gandhi, Sabeer Bhatiaetc. In 2005, his spring-summer collection, "The Nair Sisters" was inspired by hand block printing, embroideries, bagru prints and the extensive use of cotton and other hand woven fabrics. The collection was sold at Browns & Selfridges in London. He was requested to showcase his collections at the prestigious Oxford University annual black tie charity dinner fashion show. 2006, Sabyasachis debut Spring Summer collection07 at New York Fashion Week earned him critical acclaim and his label started selling world-wide. The essence of this collection was based on folklore, glamour, simplicity, modern architecture and intricate detailing. There was a marked influence of paintings from the seventeenth and eighteenth century like Brueghel[disambiguation needed], Claude Monet and others. He used dark jeweled colors with muted shades accentuated with subtle texturing and indigenous embroidery. He is the only Indian designer to be a part of all three leading fashion weeks: New York, Milan and London. Sabyasachi believes that the unique positioning of Indian designers is due to the exclusivity of his homeland with its rich history and culture. He believes that Indian designers bring a flavor to the west that is no longer perceived as only exotic but also a rich blend of individuality and sensitivity. 2007, Sabyasachi participated at the New York and at the London Fashion Weeks plus Bridal Asia 2007, Lakme India Fashion Week and the Vogue Launch event in

India. His Sanctuary collection showcased at Lakme Fashion Week Fall Winter 08 received positive reviews from the fashion editor of the New York Times, Suzy Menkes.[11] The designer made his debut to the Cannes Film Festival in the year 2011.[12] Sabyasachi closed the third edition of PCJ Delhi Couture Week (August 8 12, 2012) with his New Moon collection inspired by the flavours of five cities of the world- straitjacket discipline of New York, the nostalgia of the British Raj in Kolkata, the subversive decadence of Berlin, the romanticism of Paris and bohemian flair of Barcelona. Bollywood star Sridevi was the showstopper & walked the ramp for the designer in a sari.[13][14] The designer is showcasing this collection in UAE as well.[15] Recently, the designer styled a calender for which Bollywood actress Neha Dhupia dressed up as famous painter Frida Kahlo.[16] whose has been the designer's inspiration for the Grand Finale at WIFW Autumn-Winter 2011 where the models walked the ramp wearing Frida Kahlo-esque rose headbands and wire-rimmed glasses.[17]

4) Rohit Bal :- Bal started his career with his brother Rajiv Bal in New Delhi in 1986, and started his own first independent collection in 1990.[1] Bal was also chosen by the Khadi Gram Udyog, the largest handloom textile operation in panchkula, to work with them. Bal won the 'Designer of the Year' award at the Indian Fashion Awards in 2006. He was also won 'Designer of the Year' at the Kingfisher Fashion Achievement Awards in 2001.[1] He was announced as the Lakme Grand Finale Designer for 2012.[3] Bal has designed for the game show Kaun Banega Crorepati.[1]

Bal opened a flagship store in Delhi, as well as stores in Mumbai, Bangalore, Ahmedabad, Kolkata and Chennai. Bal has also ventured into the designing jewellery. Bal's clientele list includes Uma Thurman, Cindy Crawford, Pamela Anderson, Naomi Campbell and Anna Kournikova.[2] Most of his fashion shows in India, New York, Paris and Singapore are sponsored by The Swatch Group. He has also been the brand ambassador for Omega SA since 2001.[2] He is best known for his use of Lotus and Peacock motifs, and for spectacular construction in his clothing.

Source and Methods Of Collecting Informations :-Secondary data from internet,magazines and books etc.

Findings And Observations : Specialized services in design research are a growing domain. Companies engaged in graphic and industrial design are branching out in this domain. Some companies focused on design research are also being setup. These firms either offer design research services to clients or use design research as a part of their processes

conclusion:Indian design is maturing with every passing day. This brings out both challenges and opportunities. Indian design has every potential to be amongst the international elite. In some cases it already is at par with its international counter parts. The pace of change in the field of design makes it difficult to predict the future. However what one can surely do is to imagine the future, which continues to happen with every passing day. While a lot is happening, a lot needs to be done. It cannot be construed that the ongoing initiatives or suggestions made in this report will establish Indias eminence in Design or establish importance of design in India. Proactive actions and participation will be needed from everyone involved.

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