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WD 301 Rules General Scenarios

Coastal Raids Chronicles of Middle-Earth The assault on Pazghar

Scenarios Mini Game General Modelling General WD 304 General Scenarios

The battle of Abrakn Battle companies Eavy metal showcase Mumak showcase In the shadow of the watch tower Chronicles of Middle-Earth Nan Curunir

Part two of rules for fighting raids from the sea, by Matt Ward The rise of the serpent lord by Matt Ward The khandish king led his army to the harad border. He orders his men to assault Parghar. Though heavily outnumbered, will Suladan prevail? The fate of the haradrim is to be decided on the plains of Abrakn. Creating your own Fellowship and using them in a campaign A showcase of the Lord of the Rings models from around the world A wondrous variety of converted mumakil. See, one of thems dead! The city of Minas Tirith in its full glory The story of the fall of Saruman The Misty Mountains are spreading. Rohan has little choice but to stop the new threat. Steve Curisley gives us some tips on how to trash Hobbiton. Paladin Took leeds a dangerous raid on Sharkeys lockholes. Brrrrr how to create effective winter landscapes for your games. Adrian Wood talks about how he built Warg Chieftains. The wild wargs are coming to the north driven by hunger. Only the protectors of the Shire can stop them from

Terrain guide Scenarios Terrain guide Modelling Scenarios

Scouring the Shire The lockholes Middle-Earth in winter Warg chieftains The fell winter

Scenarios General Modelling WD 306 General Battle Report

eating the Hobbits. Farmer Maggots crop Escape from farmer Maggot and his dogs. The war begins The campaign draws nearer, dear readers, are you ready for war? Essential hobby tools and tips Warg rider chieftains Conflict in Middle-Earth Ride to Ruin Sound the horn of battle, The War of the Ring begins! A powerful relic has been seen on the battlefield. Both Gonder & Dol Amroth and Harad & Isengard want it. Convert and paint the corsairs of Umbar. Building ships of Umbar and Gondor. The map of Middle-Earth Creating rocky outcrops and haradrim tents Refight the war against Sauron! Campaign. Fornost has fallen to the dread of the Witch-King, But can he hold it? New siege equipment for defenders. Intense battle between two giants of Middle-Earth: the Balrog and the Mumakil. The War of the Ring campaign reaches its climax. A review of the One Rule Book. Even creatures of Mordor need to pass through Shelobs lair sometimes. New rules for empowering second age heroes. Sauron is at the edge of defeat. All what remains is to break his fortress. Stubborn and courages,

Modelling Terrain Guide WD 307 General Terrain Guide General Scenarios Rules Battle Report

Sea Raiders Corsair & Gondorian Ships

The lay-out of the land Setting the scene The Last Alliance The battle of fornost Enemy at the gates The bigger they are

WD 308 General Designers Notes Battle Report Rules Scenarios Tactics

The end is near One ring to rule them all Tunnels of Terror The return to Mount Doom The siege of Barad-Dr The might of the dwarves

Scenarios WD 309 Designers Notes Battle Report Tactics Scenarios

Well earned Reprisal

Durins folk are a force to be reckoned with. Dwarfs clash against plundering Easterling raiders. Part 2 of the One Rule Book review The Fellowship of the Ring battle against Moria Goblins, will they come out alive? A variety of strategies Saruman is dead, many urukhai seek refuge in Fangorn forest ignorand of what awaits them there. With his chart full of fireworks, Gandalf falls foul of a band of Goblins. How to build a Numenorian bridge. Glorfindel attempts to stop the Ringwraiths from crossing the bridge of Mitheithel. 4 scenarios of the Mines of Moria box. How to make Balins Tomb from the Mines of Moria box. Heroic characteristics in The Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. Converting battle companies captains. Osgiliath terrain from inspiration to executions. The eagles rush to aid Radagast the Brown as he is set upon Goblins. Painting the Army of the Dead quickly. Alternative scenarios for the Mines of Moria. Updated rules for playing campaigns in Middle-Earth

The road goes ever on Escape from Darrowdelf Victory assured Fear of the dark

Scenarios Terrain Guide Scenarios

Fiends & Fireworks Bridges great & small The last bridge

WD 310 Battle Report Terrain Guide Tactics Modelling Terrain Guide Scenarios Painting Workshop WD 311 Scenarios Rules

Into the dark Battling in the box Might, Will & Fait Leading the charge The ruins of Osgiliath The battle for Rhosgobel Hobby Tip

Reclaiming Moria Battle companies redux

Scenarios Painting Workshop WD 312 Erreta

Fatty Bolgers great escape Army of Elrond

(part 1). The Ringwraiths came to Crickhollow in search of Frodo and the ring. Painting Elrond and his High Elf Warriors. The future of Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game. A shadow in the East & Fall of the Necromancer. The War of the Ring campaign results. Part one of a new campaign A peaceful encampment has come under attack of Goblins. Will the defenders prevail? Part two of the rules for playing Lord of the Rings campaign. Good and evil clash in a quest to ensure that any areas surrounding their command are defended from the enemy. Collecting & Modelling a force of Moria Goblins Painting Legolas of the Mines of Moria boxed set for beginners. Golden Demon Baltimore & Los Angeles showcase. Warhammer metallics painted. Many useful tips for any painter. Review of the A shadow in the East rule book. Additional rules for gamers set in Moria Easily build terrain pieces to be used in Moria Durins final battle against the balrog, deep within the catacombs of Moria Part 2 of a set of campaign rules.

The shape of things to come

General Rules Scenarios

Victory for the free people The Misty Mountains Pillage!

Rules Scenarios

Battle companies redux The valley of shadows

Painting Workshop Painting Workshop General WD 313 Painting Workshop Designers Notes Rules Terrain Guide Scenarios Rules

Descending the darkness Painting Legolas Modelling showcase

Metal Technique A shadow in the East The return to the Darrowdelf Modelling Moria The fall of Moria The Misty Mountains

Scenarios

The ruin of Rohan

Riders of Rohan attempt to aid a village that has come under attack from a force of orc warg riders and uruk-hai. A review of A shadow in the East rule book. (notice that the White Dwarf is spending less time on LotR from this issue?) An allied force of Easterlings and Khandish warriors against the lines of Gondor and its high king itself! Your chance to paint dwarves a little unusual. Making a castle of evil completely out of foamboard. Collecting a Minas Tirith army. Tips about PVA modelling glue. Collecting a Khandish army. A Khand VS Gondor campaign. Theming a Lord of the Rings army. Heroes of Rohan. Army lists for Gondor, Ithilien, Morgul Vale and The Black Gate. Building the perfect battlefield. About the cutting set, clippers and saw. A review of the Fall of the Necromancer rule book. The full fury of the white council is unleashed against the sinister plotting of the necromancer. Using the Roughcoat spray.

WD 314 Designers Notes

Out of the east

Battle Report

War in the east

Painting Workshop Terrain Guide Painting Workshop WD 315 General Painting Workshop General Painting Workshop WD 316 General Designers Notes General General WD 317 Designers Notes Battle Report

Murin & Drr Easterling castle Defenders of the realm

Citadel Toolbox Loot, Pillage, Plunder The wrath of Keiseimu Army of Cirith Ungol

Eavy Metal showcase Legions of Middle-Earth Modelling Workshop Citadel Toolbox

Death in Mirkwood Fall of the Necromancer

General

Citadel Toolbox

WD 318 Battle Report General General

Meddle not in the affairs of wizards Citadel Toolbox Eavy Metal showcase

The three wizards try to penetrate the darkness of southern Mirkwood. Using the urban basing kit. Banner bearers. By the Eavy Metal team painted Lord of the Rings banner of the free people. Using your Wood Elves in their homelands and various army lists for these guys. Everything you need to know when you are building a Mirkwood spider board or painting your spiders. A review of the Legions of Middle-Earth rule book. Amidst the ruins of Osgiliath, something wicked stirs the forces of Cirith Ungol have arrived across the Anduin, eager to feast on man-flesh! The use of Water Effects. The Two Towers rule book review and an Explanation of the their models. The epic battle of the second movie of Lord of the Rings finally on the board. Will the results be different this time? Army painting with flat drybrushes Painting the demon of Morgoth. How to make the best of the Citadel Spray Paint This time, the campaign takes you to the deep depths of Moria The Two Towers showcase

WD 319 Tactics General

Wood elves Modelling workshop, Lair of the Spider Queen

WD 320 Designers Notes Battle Report

The great battle of our time Domination of Osgiliath

General Designers Notes

Citadel Toolbox So it begins

WD 321 Battle Report

The siege of Helms Deep

General Painting Masterclass WD 322 General General General

Citadel Toolbox The Balrog

Citadel Toolbox The reclamation of Moria Eavy Metal showcase

of the free peoples and the forces of darkness. WD 323 Battle Report Tactics General Interview To kill a king Annals of war Citadel Toolbox Mustering in Middle-Earth Harad and Orcs are invading the lands of Numenor. Cavalry! Why cavalry rule the battlefield! The use of Citadel Glue Lord of the Rings Grand Tournament 2006. An interview with Matt Hooton. This What if campaign sees Suladn make his name fighting against Khandish invaders. Getting the best out of the Hero basing kit. Painting Boromir of the Mines of Moria. Veteran hobbyists, Chris Peach & Rik Turner reveal some of their plans for the Lord of the Rings Grand Tournaments armies. Army lists, warhost houses and tactics concerning elves. The Witch King has come for one of the Numenorian palantirs hidden in the Tower Hills. All you need to know when starting to paint. Hot wire cutters. A review of the Ruin of Arnor. Arathorn and its allies have been lured into an ambush by Buhrdr. Using the Pin Vice. Painting the rangers and Warriors of Arnor.

WD 324 General

The serpent strikes

General Painting Workshop General

Citadel Toolbox Boromir Legions gather

WD 325 Tactics Scenarios

Heraldy of the firstborn Battle for the Tower Hills

Modelling General WD 326 Designers Notes Battle Report General Painting Workshop

Getting Started Citadel Toolbox A new road beckons Ambush in Rhudaur Citadel Toolbox Army painting

WD 327 Designers Notes Scenarios General Painting Masterclass

Ancient enemies War in the north Citadel Toolbox Gulavhr

Matt Ward takes a closer look at the Ruin of Arnor rule book. The forces of the Witch King have descended upon Arnor! Let the war begin. How to use Green Stuff. A step by step picture list how to paint the demon Gulavhr. Ever wondered what the foundation paints add to your models? See them in action here. What are the evil lords capable of under your command? Ever wondered how to highlight that colour? A big colour chart can be seen in this WD. The hordes of evil showcase. See the minions of Sauron in their evil glory! How to use Purity Seal & Ardcoat. A review of the Khazad-Dm rule book. King Durin and his elite force must slay the balrog or they lose the kingdom of KhazadDm forever. Drybrushing, allowing you to apply definition and highlights to models at a stroke. Using a craft knife. The use of Static Grass Adam Troke turns his hand towards the forces of good. Gondor. A beautiful showcase of the defenders of mankind.

WD 328 Painting Workshop

Foundation Paints

Tactics Painting Workshop

Lords of evil Layering colour

General General WD 329 Designers Notes Battle Report

Eavy Metal showcase Citadel Toolbox

The battle for Moria The battle of Barazinbar

Painting Workshop

Drybrushing

General WD 330 General Tactics General

Citadel Toolbox Citadel Toolbox Lords of flight Eavy Metal showcase

WD 331 Designers Notes Painting Workshop General Modelling WD 332 Designers Notes Battle Report General Painting Workshop

Dragons of Middle-Earth Painting your dragon Citadel Toolbox Desert gaming boards

Mat Ward goes in search of the secrets of these deathless draconics. Some tips for painting your very own winged horror. Citadel Painting Range colour charts for painting clothes. Here we take a look at making a desert board. A review of the Gondor in Flames and the Return of the King rule books. A huge battle report of the recreation of the battle of the Pelennor Fields. Citadel Painting Range part 2. Colour charts for metallic, wood and flesh & bone. More information about drybrushing your monstrious creatures. Spotlights on the servants of Sauron. (the White Dwarf has become really really bad from this point). Tips for using Citadel Modelling Sand. A masterclass for painting 2 mighty heroes. In war you need the right tool for the job and sometimes that tool is 12 feet tall with a ravenous appetite. Mark Latham presents a new map campaign for Lord of the Rings Strategy Battle Game

For the glory of Gondor! The battle of the Pelennor Fields Citadel Toolbox Drybrushing

WD 333 Designers Notes

Servants of the Dark Lord

General WD 334 Painting Masterclass WD 335 Tactics

Citadel Toolbox

Suladn & Boromir

Monsters of Middle-Earth

WD 336 General

Middle-Earth in flames

WD 337 Designers Notes General WD 338 Designers Notes Battle Report

Movie Moments Citadel Toolbox Harad Strike of the Serpent

Mark Latham takes a look at some inspiring scenes to recreate in miniature. How to use plastic cutters. A preview of the Harad rule book. Massed forces of Gondor go head to head against a large Haradrim force led by Suladan. The use of Varnish Chad Mierzwa shows us how you can model and paint upgrades onto your mumak. The firstborn race, a showcase of the elves of Middle-Earth painted by the Eavy Metal team. Using your hobby knife properly. Tactics and combinations for the free people. Tactics and combinations for the servants of Sauron. Where the Hobby Drill can be used for.

General WD 339 Modelling General

Citadel Toolbox Mmakil Eavy Metal showcase

WD 340 General Tactics WD 341 Tactics General

Citadel Toolbox The enemy of my enemy part 1 The enemy of my enemy part 2 Citadel Toolbox

Getting Started with Mines of Moria

Introduction
Article by Adam Troke & Jim Sowter

The Mines of Moria is the exciting boxed game for The Lord of The Rings Strategy Battle Game. It contains everything you need to get started in The Lord of The Rings hobby, and enough fantastic Citadel miniatures to enjoy hours of action-packed gaming. The Mines of Moria boxed game contains all 9 members of the fabled Fellowship of The Ring, along with 24 Moria Goblins and a towering Cave Troll, as well as all the dice, rulers, scenery and rules manuals you'll need to get playing games. A clear, easy to follow instructional booklet shows you through your first few battles, and a handy rules manual contains rules for a multitude of characters and situations, from the Balrog to Sauron, and how to use cavalry models or fight sieges. The Mines of Moria really is the very best way to get into The Lord of The Rings hobby - in this article we'll talk you through the contents of the boxed game, explain how best to get started with your first games and offer tips and advice on painting the great Citadel miniatures that you'll find within the box.

What's in The Box

If you've not had a chance to look inside The Mines of Moria boxed game, you might be wondering exactly what comes inside it. Here we'll take a look at what you get within the boxed game, and how to get it ready for battle!

Inside the Mines of Moria boxed game you get all the miniatures you need to recreate the exciting battle in Balin's Tomb, along with all the rules and accessories you'll need to get playing games. Contents: 34 highly detailed plastic Citadel miniatures, including: The Fellowship of The Ring: Frodo, Sam, Merry, Pippin, Aragorn, Boromir, Legolas, Gimli and Gandalf. 24 Moria Goblins: eight with bow, eight with spear and eight with shield. Cave Troll Balin's Tomb terrain pieces including tomb, pillars, doorway, well and more. Dice, measurers & Ring token. 32-page Getting Started book 112-page full-colour rules manualInside the Mines of Moria boxed game you get all the miniatures you need to recreate the exciting battle in Balin's Tomb, along with all the rules and accessories you'll need to get playing games.

All of the miniatures in the Mines of Moria boxed game are supplied on plastic frames. To remove the models from the frames, ready for painting and gaming, carefully clip them from the frames with a pair of Plastic Cutters or other appropriate hobby tool. Try not to twist them loose or use unsuitable tools such as scissors, as doing so can damage your miniatures.

Each of the miniatures included in the Mines of Moria needs to be attached to a base before it is ready for play. There are two sizes of base in the Mines of Moria box, 25mm bases and a single 45mm base. The Cave Troll fits onto this larger base, while the rest of the models fit the 25mm base as shown.

Some of the models, such as Gandalf, Boromir and the Cave Troll, come in two or three pieces. These are assembled by pushing the pieces together, matching the plugs against the sockets. While they have push-fit joints, which are robust enough to play games with, you might want to glue the parts together using Plastic Glue to ensure a strong, permanent join.

Like most people, you'll probably want to play your first few games with your Mines of Moria models before painting them. When you do decide to paint them, it's worth taking the time to prepare them suitably for painting. The best way to do this is to undercoat them using Chaos Black Spray - a spray undercoat is not only quicker than undercoating models by hand, but it also gives a smooth, even base layer for you to paint onto.

PREVIOUS

Here we look at how to paint Frodo Baggins and Sam Gamgee. Both of these models were prepared for painting with an undercoat of Chaos Black Spray.

Frodo Stage 1: Waistcoat - Basecoat with Chaos Black Jacket - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Trousers - Basecoat with Chaos Black Cloak - Basecoat with Dark Angels Green Sword - Basecoat with Chainmail Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Basecoat with Scorched Brown

Frodo Stage 2: Waistcoat - Layer with Scorched Brown Jacket - Wash with Badab Black Trousers - Layer with Scorched Brown Cloak - Wash with Devlan Mud Sword - Layer with Mithril Silver Flesh - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Hair - Highlight with Bestial Brown

Frodo Stage 3: Waistcoat - Highlight with Bestial Brown Jacket - Highlight with Dark Flesh Trousers - Highlight with Khemri Brown Cloak - Layer with Dark Angels Green Sword - Wash with Badab Black Buttons - Basecoat with Chainmail Flesh - Layer with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Wash with Devlan Mud

Frodo Stage 4: Waistcoat - Wash with Devlan Mud, followed by a highlight of Snakebite Leather Jacket - Fine highlight of Kommando Khaki Trousers - Wash with Devlan Mud Cloak - Highlight with Snot Green Sword - Highlight with Mithril Silver Buttons - Wash with Badab Black Flesh - Highlight with Elf Flesh Hair - Fine highlight of Bestial Brown

Sam Stage 1: (click on image for reverse angle) Cloak - Basecoat with Adeptus Battlegrey Jacket - Basecoat of Fenris Grey Trousers - Basecoat with Charadon Granite Rucksack - Basecoat with Khemri Brown Leather & Feet Hair - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Sausages - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Metal - Basecoat with Boltgun Metal Shirt - Basecoat with Fortress Grey Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Basecoat with Tausept Ochre

Sam Stage 2: (click on image for reverse angle) Cloak - Wash with Badab Black Jacket - Wash with Badab Black Trousers - Wash with Badab Black Rucksack - Wash with Gryphonne Sepia Leather & Feet Hair - Wash with Badab Black Sausages - Wash with Badab Black Metal - Wash with Badab Black Shirt - Wash with Badab Black Flesh - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Hair - Wash with Gryphonne Sepia

Sam Stage 3: (click on image for reverse angle) Cloak - Highlight with Adeptus Battlegrey Jacket - Highlight with Fenris Grey Trousers - Highlight with Charadon Granite Rucksack - Highlight with Khemri Brown Leather & Feet Hair - Highlight with Scorched Brown Sausages - Highlight with Dark Flesh Metal - Highlight with Boltgun Metal Shirt - Highlight with Fortress Grey Flesh - Highlight with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Highlight with Tausept Ochre

Sam Stage 4: (click on image for reverse angle) Cloak - Highlight with Codex Grey Jacket - Highlight with Fortress Grey Trousers - Highlight with Kommando Khaki Rucksack - Highlight with Dheneb Stone Leather & Feet Hair - Highlight with Bestial Brown Sausages - Highlight with Tallarn Flesh Metal - Highlight with Mithril Silver Shirt - Highlight with Kommando Khaki Flesh - Highlight with Elf Flesh Hair - Highlight with Bleached Bone
PREVIOUS

Painting Merry & Pippin


On this page we look at how to paint Merry and Pippin. Both of these models were prepared for painting with an undercoat of Chaos Black Spray.

Merry Stage 1: Waistcoat - Basecoat with Tausept Ochre Trousers - Basecoat with Chaos Black Jacket - Basecoat with Orkhide Shade Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Basecoat with Khemri Brown Rock - Basecoat with Chaos Black Cloak - Basecoat with Adeptus Battlegrey Rucksack - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Sword - Basecoat with Boltgun Metal

Merry Stage 2: Waistcoat - Layer with Iyanden Darksun Trousers - Layer with Scorched Brown Jacket - Highlight with Snot Green Flesh - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Hair - Wash with Gryphonne Sepia Rock - Layer with Codex Grey Cloak - Wash with Badab Black Rucksack - Highlight with Bestial Brown Sword - Highlight with Chainmail

Merry Stage 3: Waistcoat - Fine highlight of Skull White Trousers - Highlight with Khemri Brown Jacket - Wash with Thraka Green Flesh - Highlight with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Highlight with Desert Yellow Rock - Highlight with Adeptus Battlegrey Cloak - Highlight with Adeptus Battlegrey Rucksack - Fine highlight of Snakebite Leather Sword - Wash with Badab Black Buttons - Paint with Chainmail

Merry Stage 4: Waistcoat - Wash with Gryphonne Sepia Trousers - Wash with Devlan Mud Jacket - Fine highlight of Scorpion Green Flesh - Fine highlight of Elf Flesh Hair - Fine highlight of Bleached Bone Rock - Wash with Badab Black Cloak - Fine highlight of Codex Grey Rucksack - Wash with Devlan Mud Sword - Fine highlight of Mithril Silver Buttons - Wash with Badab Black

Pippin Stage 1: Cloak - Basecoat with Scab Red Jacket - Basecoat with Regal Blue Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Trousers - Basecoat with Chaos Black Hair - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Scarf - Basecoat of Khemri Brown Sword - Basecoat with Boltgun Metal Rock - Basecoat with Badab Black

Pippin Stage 2: Cloak - Wash with Badab Black Jacket - Wash in recesses with Badab Black Flesh - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Trousers - Layer with Scorched Brown Hair - Highlight with Bestial Brown Scarf - Wash with Devlan Mud Sword - Highlight with Chainmail Rock - Layer with Codex Grey

Pippin Stage 3: Cloak - Highlight with Scab Red Jacket - Layer with Mordian Blue Flesh - Layer with Tallarn Flesh Trousers - Highlight with Khemri Brown Hair - Wash with Devlan Mud Scarf - Highlight with Khemri Brown Sword - Wash with Badab Black Rock - Highlight with Fortress Grey

Pippin Stage 4: Cloak - Highlight with Red Gore Jacket - Fine highlight of Enchanted Blue Flesh - Highlight with Elf Flesh Trousers - Wash with Devlan Mud Hair - Fine highlight of Bestial Brown Scarf - Fine highlight of Kommando Khaki Sword - Fine highlight of Mithril Silver Rock - Wash with Badab Black
PREVIOUS

On this page we look at how to paint Aragorn and Boromir. Both of these models were prepared for painting with an undercoat of Chaos Black Spray.

Aragorn Stage 1: (click on image for reverse angle) Coat - Basecoat with Dark Angels Green Boots - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Tunic - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Black - Basecoat with Chaos Black Metal - Basecoat with Boltgun Metal Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Basecoat with Chaos Black Bow - Basecoat with Charadon Granite Quiver - Basecoat with Bestial Brown

Aragorn Stage 2: (click on image for reverse angle) Coat - Wash with Devlan Mud Boots - Wash, in recesses only, with Badab Black Tunic - Wash, in recesses only, with Badab Black Black - Highlight with Adeptus Battlegrey Metal - Wash with Badab Black Flesh - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Hair - Paint with Scorched Brown Bow - Layer with Graveyard Earth Quiver - Wash with Badab Black, giving two coats

Aragorn Stage 3: (click on image for reverse angle) Coat - Highlight with Dark Angels Green Boots - Highlight with Bestial Brown Tunic - Layer with Dark Flesh Black - Highlight with Codex Grey Metal - Highlight with Boltgun Metal Flesh - Highlight with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Wash with Badab Black Bow - Layer with Kommando Khaki Quiver - Highlight with Snakebite Leather

Aragorn Stage 4: (click on image for reverse angle) Coat - Highlight with Snot Green Boots - Highlight with Snakebite Leather Tunic - Highlight with Kommando Khaki Metal - Highlight with Chainmail Flesh - Highlight with Elf Flesh Hair - Highlight with Scorched Brown Bow - Highlight with Bleached Bone Quiver - Highlight with Snakebite Leather

Boromir Stage 1: (click on image for reverse angle) Red - Basecoat with Scab Red Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Metal - Basecoat with Boltgun Metal Tunic - Basecoat with Chaos Black Hair - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Horn - Basecoat with Khemri Brown Leather - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Shield - Basecoat with Chaos Black Gold - Basecoat with Tin Bitz

Boromir Stage 2: (click on image for reverse angle) Red - Wash with Badab Black Flesh - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Metal - Layer with Chainmail Tunic - Highlight with Adeptus Battlegrey Hair - Highlight with Bestial Brown Horn - Wash with Devlan Mud Leather - Highlight with Bestial Brown Shield - Layer with Scorched Brown Gold - Layer with Shining Gold

Boromir Stage 3: (click on image for reverse angle) Red - Highlight with Scab Red Flesh - Highlight with Tallarn Flesh Metal - Wash with Badab Black Tunic - Fine Highlight of with Codex Grey Hair - Wash with Devlan Mud Horn - Layer with Dheneb Stone Leather - Fine highlight of Snakebite Leather Shield - Layer with Dark Flesh Gold - Highlight with Burnished Gold Trim - Paint pattern carefully with Tausept Ochre

Boromir Stage 4: (click on image for reverse angle) Red - Fine highlight of Red Gore Flesh - Fine highlight of Elf Flesh Metal - Highlight with Mithril Silver Tunic - Wash with Badab Black Hair - Highlight with Bestial Brown Horn - Fine highlight of Skull White Leather - Wash with Badab Black Shield - Wash with Gryphonne Sepia Gold - Wash with Devlan Mud Trim - Thin highlight of Bubonic Brown

Painting Legolas and Gimli


Here we look at how to paint Legloas and Gimli. Both of these models were prepared for painting with an undercoat of Chaos Black Spray.

Legolas Stage 1: (click on image for reverse angle) Green - Basecoat with Orkhide Shade Grey - Basecoat with Fenris Grey Leather - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Bow - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Gold - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Basecoat with Khemri Brown

Legolas Stage 2: (click on image for reverse angle) Green - Layer with Catachan Green Grey - Layer with Shadow Grey Leather - Wash Badab Black into the recesses Bow - Layer with Dark Flesh Gold - Paint with Shining Gold Flesh - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Hair - Wash with Ogryn Flesh

Legolas Stage 3: (click on image for reverse angle) Green - Layer with Knarloc Green Grey - Highlight with Spacewolves Grey Leather - Highlight with Bestial Brown Bow - Layer with Bestial Brown Gold - Layer with Burnished Gold Flesh - Highlight with Tallarn Flesh Hair - Highlight with Desert Yellow

Legolas Stage 4: (click on image for reverse angle) Green - Highlight with Gretchin Green and wash the recesses with Devlan Mud Grey - Wash Devlan Mud into recesses only Leather - Highlight with Snakebite Leather Gold - Highlight with Chainmail Flesh - Highlight with Elf Flesh Hair - Highlight with Bleached Bone

Gimli Stage 1: Coat & Gloves - Basecoat with Scab Red Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Leather - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Beard - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Axe Haft - Basecoat Chaos Black Silver - Basecoat with Chainmail Gold - Basecoat with Tin Bitz

Gimli Stage 2: Coat & Gloves - Wash with Badab Black Flesh - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Leather - Wash with Devlan Mud Beard - Layer with Bestial Brown Axe Haft - Layer with Scorched Brown Silver - Wash with Badab Black Gold - Layer with Shining Gold

Gimli Stage 3: Coat & Gloves - Highlight with Scab Red Flesh - Highlight with Tallarn Flesh Leather - Highlight with Scorched Brown Beard - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Axe Haft - Highlight with Khemri Brown Silver - Highlight with Chainmail Gold - Layer with Burnished Gold

Gimli Stage 4: Coat & Gloves - Highlight with Red Gore Flesh - Fine highlight of Elf Flesh Leather - Fine highlight of Bestial Brown Beard - Highlight with Bestial Brown Axe Haft - Wash with Devlan Mud Silver - Edge highlight of Mithril Silver Gold - Wash with Devlan Mud

Painting Gandalf & Cave Troll


On this page we look at how to paint Gandalf and the Cave Troll. Both of these models were prepared for painting with an undercoat of Chaos Black Spray.

Gandalf Stage 1: Cloak - Basecoat with Adeptus Battlegrey Hat - Basecoat with Fenris Grey Metal - Basecoat with Boltgun Metal Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Leather - Basecoat with Chaos Black Staff - Basecoat with Charadon Granite Beard - Basecoat with Dheneb Stone

Gandalf Stage 2: Cloak - Wash with Badab Black Hat - Layer with Shadow Grey Metal - Wash with Badab Black Flesh - Wash with Ogryn Flesh Leather - Paint Scorched Brown Staff - Layer with Graveyard Earth Beard - Wash with Gryphonne Sepia

Gandalf Stage 3: Cloak - Layer with Adeptus Battlegrey Hat - Highlight with Codex Grey Metal - Highlight with Boltgun Metal Flesh - Layer with Tallarn Flesh Leather - Highlight with Bestial Brown Staff - Layer with Kommando Khaki Beard - Highlight with Dheneb Stone

Gandalf Stage 4: Cloak - Highlight with Codex Grey. Wash Devlan Mud into recesses only Hat - Highlight with Spacewolves Grey Metal - Highlight with Chainmail Flesh - Highlight with Elf Flesh Leather - Highlight with Snakebite Leather Staff - Paint gemstone with Dheneb Stone, then highlight stone with Skull White. Beard - Highlight with Skull White

Cave Troll Stage 1: Dark Flesh - Basecoat Adeptus Battlegrey, followed by a drybrush of Codex Grey Light Flesh - Basecoat with Tallarn Flesh Metal - Basecoat with Boltgun Metal Cloth - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Nails - Basecoat with Scorched Brown

Cave Troll Stage 2: Entire Model - Wash with Devlan Mud Nails - Layer with Bestial Brown

Cave Troll Stage 3: Dark Flesh - Drybrush with Codex Grey Light Flesh - Layer with Tallarn Flesh Metal - Highlight with Boltgun Metal Cloth - Highlight with Scorched Brown Nails - Layer with Bubonic Brown

Cave Troll Stage 4: Light Flesh - Highlight with Elf Flesh Metal - Highlight with Chainmail Cloth - Fine highlight of Bestial Brown Nails - Highlight with Bleached Bone

Painting Moria Goblins & Scenery


On this page we look at how to paint the Moria Goblins and the scenery included in the boxed game. All of these models were prepared for painting with an undercoat of Chaos Black Spray.

Moria Goblins Stage 1: Armour - Basecoat with Tin Bitz Flesh - Basecoat of Catachan Green Cloth - Basecoat with Dark Flesh Leather - Basecoat with Scorched Brown Hair & Fletching - Basecoat with Chaos Black Eye - Basecoat with Chaos Black

Moria Goblins Stage 2: Armour - Wash with Badab Black Flesh - Wash with Devlan Mud Cloth - Layer with Scab Red Leather - Wash with Badab Black Hair & Fletching - Highlight with Adeptus Battlegrey Eye - Paint Gretchin Green

Moria Goblins Stage 3: Armour - Highlight with Boltgun Metal Flesh - Layer with Catachan Green Cloth - Highlight with Mechrite Red Leather - Highlight with Bestial Brown Hair & Fletching - Fine highlight of Codex Grey Eye - Layer with Desert Yellow

Moria Goblins Stage 4: Armour - Fine highlight of Mithril Silver Flesh - Highlight with Camo Green Cloth - Fine highlight of Kommando Khaki Leather - Fine highlight of Snakebite Leather Eye - Dot with Chaos Black

Scenery Stage 1: Stone - Charadon Granite Basecoat, followed by a wash of Badab Black Wood - Scorched Brown basecoat Metal - Boltgun Metal

Scenery Stage 2: Stone - Codex Grey drybrush Wood - Bestial Brown drybrush Metal - Badab Black wash

Scenery Stage 3: Stone - Fortress Grey drybrush Wood - Khemri Brown drybrush Metal - Boltgun Metal highlight

Scenery Stage 4: Stone - Skull White drybrush, followed by a Devlan Mud was into recesses Wood - Kommando Khaki drybrush Metal - Chainmail highlight
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Playing the Game


With your models assembled and ready to take to the battlefield, you'll need to know just how The Lord of The Rings Strategy Battle Game works. Although a game can at first seem quite complicated, once you've played it a few times, you'll quickly find that the rules become second nature. Perhaps the easiest way to get the hang of The Lord of The Rings is to get a friend who already knows how to play to talk you through your first game. Failing that, you might like to pop into your nearest Games Workshop Hobby Centre and see if one of the staff there can guide you through an introductory game. Of course, you don't need an experienced player to show you how to play. Inside Mines of Moria, there is a rules manual that contains all the information you'll need to play The Lord of The Rings, as well as an introductory booklet that talks you through the basics of the game with simple instructions and training exercises.

In The Lord of The Rings Strategy Battle Game you and your opponent set up the board according to the scenario you want to play, and fight out an exciting battle together. The introductory booklet within the Mines of Moria contains four scenarios for you to play - by the time you've fought your way through these you'll be ready for the extra rules and challenges contained within the rules manual. Generally speaking, players play each scenario twice, once with the Good side and once with the Evil force, to see who does the best.

In The Lord of The Rings, players move their models around the gaming area, using a tape measure or ruler to determine how far each model can move. At first it might seem quite mechanical and precise as you get the hang of moving your miniatures, but you'll soon find that moving your miniatures becomes an engaging and strategic part of the game as your models dodge and weave

through the press of combat!

Perhaps the most exciting part of the game is working out the results of shooting and fighting between your miniatures. Players roll dice to determine who wins a fight, or whether an arrow strikes its target the better your warrior is, the more likely he is to win. Aragorn is a much better fighter than a Goblin, after all (but he'll have his work cut out taking on the Cave Troll without a lot of help).

Between these two books you've got everything you need to play your games. While the introductory booklet introduces the basics of setting up and playing your first few games, the small rules manual contains the full rules for The Lord of The Rings Strategy Battle Game. It also contains a slew of profiles and statistics for the warriors and heroes encountered in the books and films from the Balrog and Saruman the White to Haldir and Elrond, you can find all the information you'll need to fight battles in Middle-earth by delving into your rules manual!

John Shaffer's Army of the Dead

Introduction

When presented with the task of converting and painting an Army of the Dead to play against a rival staff member, veteran modeler, painter, and US White Dwarf team member John Shaffer welcomed the challenge with open arms. The following pages show you how John converted his models along with a step-by-step painting guide on ghostly effects. Explore the links below to find out how he did it.

The Heroes

John gave the heroes and leaders of his Army of the Dead special attention. Gimli: The famous Dwarf needs no conversion work. Just place a spare Goblin head on the base. Aragorn: To give The Return of The King version of Aragorn an Elven cloak, carefully cut one away from the back of a plastic Elf Warrior. Scrape the underside of the cloak clean with a hobby knife, file it smooth, and glue it in place. Use green stuff to sculpt the cloak around the neck of the model and blend it into the plastic cloak. You can change Aragorn's pose to suggest that he is issuing charge orders to the Army of the Dead - it's up to you. To make this change, simply use a hobby saw to cut the arm off at the shoulder and pin the arm into the new position. King of the Dead: The King of the Dead should stand out from the rest of the models as befits his stature. Thus, John chose to put him on horseback. To make a similar conversion, you'll need the

horse and rider from a Rider of Rohan model and a King of the Dead model as well. Saw the King model in half just below the hands and then cut his hips away to about waist level with a pair of clippers. Shape the King's torso so it sits flush on the Rohirrim's legs with a bit more filing and clipping. Glue the torso on top of the legs. Sculpt the cloak and legs with green stuff as shown in the photo (click the image to see a larger version). Distress the horse's head to make it look dead and rotten. Legolas: If you'd like to string Legolas's bow as John did on his model, drill a hole through Legolas's right hand with a pin vise and thread a string through the hole. Put a dab of super glue on one end of his bow and wind the string tightly around the top. When the glue dries, pull the string taught to the other end of the bow and repeat the process. Cut away any leftover string with your hobby knife. Make the arrow from a piece of brass rod and the fletchings from pieces of index card. You can take the arrowhead from another model or carve one from a piece of plastic sprue, as John did with his conversion.

Above, you see the three painted and finished Fellowship characters. John used similar colors, where applicable, to unify the look of the three models. Paint Bestial Brown on the leather and Codex Grey for the cloaks - these are your two primary unifying colors. Make sure to add weathering to each of the models' Elven Cloaks to indicate the trio's hard travels on the road from Lothlorien to Minas Tirith. As for the other colors on these models, you can use Scab Red for Gimli's clothing, Catachan Green for Aragorn's coat, Scorched Brown for Aragorn's tunic, Catachan Green mixed with Snot Green for Legolas's tunic, and Shadow Grey for Legolas's undershirt. Of course, painting the King of the Dead is another story entirely. Check out John's finished model and its ghostly kin next.
John Shaffer's Army of the Dead

The Warriors of the Dead


If you work on the Army of the Dead models in large batches, it will help you keep the colors consistent throughout the group. Learn how John achieved the eerie effect found on his models by reading the step-by-step instructions on the next page.

Painting the Dead

Step One: All of the models in an Army of the Dead follow the same paint scheme, so apply this technique to all of the models in the warband. Start off by priming your models with Skull White Spray Primer.Apply a wash over the model with a 3:1 mix of water and Codex Grey. Paint the base with whatever color you choose. John likes a Scorched Brown color to mimic the look of fertile soil.

Step Two:After the first wash dries, prepare to apply another! This time around, use a 3:1 mix of water and Snot Green. Drybrush the earth with Bestial Brown followed by a 1:1 mix of Bestial Brown and Bleached Bone.Since you're working with washes (which take some time to dry), it might be a good idea to apply them to several models at once.

Step Three:Highlight the raised areas of the model with a 1:1 mix of Codex Grey and Snot Green. Apply successive highlights while adding in a little more Skull White to the mixture with each pass until you have worked up to a color similar to Fortress Grey. If necessary, define the recessed areas of the model with a careful wash of Snot Green paint.

Step Four:Apply thinner highlights to the highest areas of the model with a 2:1:1 mixture of Skull White, Snot Green, and Codex Grey. Add another part of Skull White to the mix and apply final highlights sparingly. Paint the beard and hair of the King, along with the mane and tail of the horse, with Desert Yellow. Paint the metal areas Tin Bitz.

Step Five:Highlight the metal areas with a 1:1 mix of Tin Bitz and Chainmail followed by a highlight of pure Chainmail. Drybrush the hair and mane with Bleached Bone followed by a 1:1 mix of Bleached Bone and Skull White. Paint the rim around the base with Bestial Brown. Add some static grass and rejoice! You've completed an Army of the Dead model.

War of The Ring: Collecting Easterlings

Introduction
Article by Thomas Webster-Deakin

Ever since the Shadow in the East sourcebook came out for The Lord of The Rings Strategy Battle Game I've been a fan of both the Easterlings and Khandish. I really liked the simple campaign contained within the source book and quickly set about collecting the models I would need to be to play both sides of each scenario. That seemed like a simple and achievable collecting goal. However as with a great many of my hobby projects I quickly became distracted ('oh look, shiny new things!') and never quite got the set finished. Fast forward several years to the arrival of War of The Ring. Once again I was really excited by this

new game. The new, larger armies meant I needed to get my hands on a big army together to play games on the new scale. Not to be disheartened, I did the sensible thing and reviewed my entire collection of The Lord of The Rings miniatures to see what armies I could possibly make. I had plenty of Mordor Orcs and Moria Goblins and a veritable shedload of Wargs, so the obvious answer was to do some sort of combined Evil force from Mordor and the Misty Mountains. On the other hand (or so I mused) it wouldn't take much effort to paint up another box or so of Men of Gondor, finish the box of rangers and add a couple of Heroes and hey presto! An army of stout Warriors of Gondor could easily be formed up to defend the Free Peoples. And then it happened: my eyes fell on Khaml the Easterling and I was smitten all over again. Easterlings, it would have to be Easterlings. This despite the fact that the sum total of my painted Easterling collection at this point was seven Easterling warriors, a Captain, one Kataphract, three Khandish archers and the mighty Khaml himself. From these paltry beginnings I would forge a red and gold force worthy of Sauron and crush the puny defenders of Middle-earth! Collecting the Army Now I'm not the kind of collector who plans out his army with a master-plan for victory in mind. I much prefer to collect a bunch of models that I like the look of, and then try and work out a force from my collection. I find this helps me to stay enthusiastic about the project for longer since the building and painting becomes the source of enjoyment, rather than a means to an end. So, the first thing I did was buy myself a box of Kataphrakts and another box of plastic Easterling Warriors. These, together with the miniatures I'd started many moons ago, would give me forty warriors and six cavalry, enough to get a small army started and still keep my goals achievable. I'd already decided that my army would be restricted to Easterlings and Khandish models - none of your fancy Haradrim and their big elephants for me thank you very much - as Shadow in the East still held sway in my mind.

Painting the Horde


The few models I'd already collected had been painted using the excellent guides in Shadow in the East. However, that was a relatively labour-intensive painting method (at least for a ham-fisted buffoon such as myself) and so I looked about for something a little quicker for painting the large numbers my new army requires. Fortunately the intervening years had seen the release of both Foundation paints and Washes and I was soon able to come up with a simple, effective and, above all, quick method of painting Easterling Warriors. On some models I went to an extra level of detail and highlighted the gold with a Mithril Silver and Shining Gold mix but for most of my rank and file this technique was both quick and very effective. Using this I was able to get my first forty models done good and quick, leaving me with a stand of pikemen, and two stands each of archers and swordsmen.

Stage 1: Paint the gold bits with Tin Bitz.

Stage 2: Paint the clothing Mechrite Red and the leather bits (boots and belts) Calthan Brown.

Stage 3: Paint the gold with Shining Gold and the centre of the shield with Calthan Brown.

Stage 4: Cover the entire model with Devlan Mud Wash. Base to taste.

From Small Beginnings

Having quickly collected the core of a force and, perhaps more importantly, painted it, I then looked slightly further afield at what else I needed to add. Another box of Easterling Warriors made sense, but I also wanted to add a little more variety into the army so I also picked up some Khandish Warriors and a Khandish Chariot. At the same time the fantastic new Amdr Lord of Blades miniature mysteriously appeared on my desk (thanks, whoever left him there) so that gave me another Hero for my army. This gave me enough models to start playing and as I learned a bit more about the game I continued to add more models to my expanding army, including breaking my own initial rules and adding some non-Easterling and Khandish models to my force in the shape of some Half Trolls and a Mordor Troll (but both painted to fit with the rest of my force). The army List Khaml Amdr Three companies of Easterlings with pikes, including a Captain and Banner Bearer Four companies of Easterling Archers Four companies of Easterlings with swords, including a Captain and Banner Bearer Three companies of Easterling Kataphrakts Two companies of Khandish Mercenaries with bows Two companies of Khandish Mercenaries Chariot Stand of Half Trolls Mordor Troll

My favourite unit, purely based on how well they do on the battlefield, the Easterling Phalanx is really dangerous. I'd certainly like to add some more warriors to this formation in the future.

These Half Trolls don't just provide me with a distraction from painting Easterlings, they're also pretty good on the tabletop - they can really dish out the pain in close combat and with a Resilience of 2 and the Indomitable special rules they take a lot of killing!

I've got a few Easterling Heroes already with Amdr, Khaml and my Captains. Amdr has proven to be very good in the skirmish game too! Next up for my Heroes is a War Priest and a Dragon Knight or two.

Since the Easterlings don't have a ballista of their own, I nabbed one from my Mordor Orcs and selected a pair of likely crewmen. I simply cut the weapon off one, while the other has a wire 'bolt' ready to load.

LONG HAIR Sometimes a head-swap conversion might necessitate a bit of hair transplant. Other times, you might just want to add a long, shaggy mane to a model. Whatever the reason, it's good to know that sculpting hair is a breeze after some practice. For this example, we'll add a bunch of hair to a crazed Flagellant to make him look even crazier.

Nope, this guy's hair isn't long enough. It just Roll a few small lines of putty. won't do!

Place these rolls onto the model where you want hair. Yes, it looks like a bunch dreadlocks right now, but not for long.

With the blade end of a sculpting tool, press into the putty in one direction to create the flow of hair.

Now, use a hobby knife to create fine lines of The Flagellant has been transformed into a hair. You can even separate a few ends for a proper, long-haired lunatic. You could do the more realistic look. same with his beard!

EASY CHAINMAIL Extending a coat of chain mail or reconstructing an armoured arm you've converted is not that hard to do because chain mail is simple stuff to make. The process involves either randomly jabbing at putty with a pin or carefully making rows of rings with a pin. Here, we'll transform a boring old rag on a Plague Marine into a tabard of chain mail.

This rag just ain't doin' it for me.

Add a small blob of putty to the tabard.

Press the blob to fit the surface area of the tabard.

Flatten the putty and trim any that overlaps the edges.

The putty is now all set for chain-mail action. Dig up a pin with a small point.

Jab at the putty from directly above with the pin.

The tabard is nearly done.

With the tip of your sculpting tool, jab at the

By using two sized "jabbers," the putty looks

putty again.

like chain mail.

POUCHES AND BAGS Little details like pouches and ammo bags can be added to just about any model. They also add a bit of a personal touch. Once you complete a few, you may find yourself unable to stop adding such items to every one of your models. Here, we take a Flagellant and add several belt pouches.

Roll a small ball of putty between your fingers. Press the putty to the waistline of the model.

Here's a close up to show the placement of the Add a few well-placed wrinkles to the top of putty. the pouch.

That's about it one pouch complete.

The top of these pouches poke out from under the rope.

BANDAGES AND WRAPPINGS This type of putty work can be used for tons of stuff. An injured fighter in Mordheim can be given a head bandage, and weapons can be wrapped with camouflage, to name but a few uses. This project hardly involves any real sculpting it's mostly just simple putty work.

Roll a long and very thin line of putty on a plastic bag.

Thick wraps use a thick line of putty. Otherwise, keep it thin.

Wet a base to be used as a press.

Press the putty flat with the base.

The left half has been flattened.

Let the putty cure a bit and then peel it from the plastic.

Here's the amputated leg of some unfortunate Wrap the putty around the area you want dude. bandaged.

There ya' go, buddy! Right as rain!

If you want to texture the bandage a bit, go right ahead.

A few fine lines make the bandages look tattered.

ADDING FUR Much like hair, fur is pretty easy to do and has plenty of practical uses. It's really just an exercise in mashing putty around until it looks like fur. I know that sounds stupid, but it's the truth! Here, we'll fill a gap and add some fur to a Chaos Hound. Note: The blob of green putty visible underneath the Hound was used to prop up the model for photographic purposes. However, I somehow forgot it was there despite it being glaringly visible in every picture. Please ignore it!

With the rear leg finished, it's time to fill that arm gap.

Lay a blob of putty over the area that is to become fur.

Create grooves with the blade end of a sculpting tool.

Sculpt the fur so that it matches the surrounding fur.

Wet the bit and push it into the seals on the plastic sheet.

They might not be perfectly round, but hey, it won't matter.

Behold: fur and gap taken care of in one fell swoop.