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BangaloreMirror
 I
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2013
 YOU
www.bangaloremirror.com/you
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the USA come straight from the airport tosample the mutton biryani, which is a fa-vourite.” The businessman says he isfeeling the pinch due to the onion pricerise, but, “We have to keep the businessrunning, no matter what. I cannot com-promise on the quality.” The mutton bi-ryani is priced at Rs 140 and chicken bi-ryani for Rs 130. Dealing with the rush is the result of atight workflow, which the workers takeabout 3 years to learn. Does he feel theneed to open more branches? “Absolute-ly not. We don’t want to dilute our spe-cialty. It’s a matter of pride to have somany people queue up outside our eat-ery. We were in Nagarathpet earlier butmoved to Jayanagar 9th block as this is abigger place.”
—Sindhuja Balaji
was taken forward by my father. Now, wehave some cousins onboard too.” Even as his toddler son runs aroundthe kitchen excitedly, his only hope is thelegacy will be carried on by the next gen-eration. The spices, poultry, vegetablesand even the coal is procured from theirown farms or that owned by close friendsand family. “Depending on our require-ments, we procure the material from ourclose associates. We also take catering orders for weddings and special func-tions,” reveals Bhonsle.With over 20 tables that can seat fourat a time, the place is milling with peoplefrom 8 am to 3 pm. Bhonsle gets around200-odd customers every day, with atleast 100 more on the weekends. “I don’tkeep track of the customers but our foot-falls are steady. I have had people from
I
f you’re new to the city and want tosample the best biryani, chances arean old timer will direct you to ShivajiMilitary Mess. Located a lane away fromthe bustling Banashankari bus stand,this eatery believes in authenticity— thebiryani is cooked over coals, blendedwith masalas that are prepared in the ex-act manner Marathas did, and served inbanana leaves. The gustatory experiencewill leave you yearning for more, as thesmell of freshly cooked mutton andchicken with rice wafts through your nos-trils and lingers on your tastebuds for along while. Rajeev Bhonsle and his broth-er, along with a set of immediate familymembers, run a tight ship here. “This is afamily business and we have never en-couraged anyone else to run the place.My grandfather started this hotel, and it
This 90-year-old biryani jaunt serves authentic Maratha style dum and donne biryani to thronging crowds
BM SAVEUR:
SHIVAJI MILITARY MESS
S
omething about the conso-nants in the name of the res-taurant reminded me of
TheGodfather 
— turned out to bethe Tattaglia family, one of New York’s ‘Five Families’ in the nov-el. This Indiranagar establishment,however, has no such connection,and is actually named after a kind of pasta. The opulent façade and thebrightly-lit interiors are set off by aprominently gold and yellow décor,while chandeliers and framed pic-tures making it a tad gaudy, if slightlypalatial. Our table sported a lot of chatter — some of it was because theextensive menu made decisionshard, but most of it was courtesy theintense cold. When we asked forsome warmth, we were given a cen-tral air conditioning story. Cold real-ity dictated that even though itseemed that the entire air condition-ing was centred on our table, the rainoutside meant that we couldn’t usethe alfresco option.
Starters:
Theoptions consist of a cou-ple of soups, half a dozen salads, andsome antipasti. We skipped the firsttwo and launched into a Focacce ligu-ri and a Mozzarelletta. The flat breadand its toppings turned out to bequite picturesque, but even the col-lective presence of duck ham, parmi-giano cheese and provolone cheesewasn’t enough to lift the dish. In con-trast, the simple combination of mozzarella melted with nuts andsweet tomato, though not very ap-pealing to the eye, made a mark onother senses — smell andtaste. It was totally melt-in-the-mouth, with the nutsoffering a texture varia-tion. In Bangalore, theyhave chosen to serve on-ly wine. They had runout of the white wines wepreferred, so we settled for‘pints’ of red and white wine,and were left rather unim-pressed with both.
Entrée:
The sheer variety of pastachoices is attention-worthy — fromspaghetti and ravioli to Sorrentinoand Taglierini, I could count abouttwenty. Together with the condi-ments, there are potentially hun-dreds of combinations! Add to that,pizzas and calzones. We began with aTagliatella pizza — thin crusted andfairly large with pesto, mushrooms,taleggio cheese, turkey bacon andspinach. This is probably
shuddh
Ital-ian judging by the relative blandness,and despite that consideration, itfailed to impress. The Calzone Verdewas a lot of hot air as they weren’t real-ly generous with the mozzarella,mushrooms and pesto stuffing. Wethen tried the Gamberetti di Fung-hi which turned out to be anexcellent dish with well-cooked pasta and prawns.On weekdays, they havea ‘1111 for 2’ menu,which lets you choosethree pastas from nineoptions. That turned outto be quite a blessing andwe sampled the SpaghettiBolognese, Sorrentino with Ve-ra Casalinga sauce and the Tagliatellewith Tremenda sauce. The spaghettinosed ahead, though if the Tagliatellewasn’t a tad overcooked, it mighthave won; the cream sauce was quitegood. The Sorrentino was nice too,but the table was evenly divided onthe parmigiano-reggiano and Iberianpork dish.
Dessert:
Of the many dessert options,we tried the Tiramisu. Phenomenallygood, it won best dish of the dayhands down. The Tutto Cioccolatoseemed a little too similar to the stan-dard lava cakes available everywhere.Coppa Fior di Latte al Cioccolat oFuso— Mascarpone ice cream with hotchocolate cream — was also just aver-age.
In all:
La Tagliatella is an internationalchain and prides itself on the authen-ticity and freshness of the ingredientsused. That probably explains thesteep pricing, but unless the gap be-tween value and cost is bridged, thebill will make it very easy for a custom-er to suspect a Godfather-like extor-tion. We kid you not.
Bangalore Mirror reviews anonymously and pays for meals
Manu Prasad
bmfeedback@gmail.com
Quite the Italian job
BM VERDICT
Cuisine
Italian
Owner(s)
La Tagliatella
Chef 
Anurag Brindal
 Alcohol
 Yes
Wine list
Literally so, only wines
Price range
Take a deep breath.For about
`
2700, youcould share a drink, anon-veg starter, anon-veg entrée and adessert (inclusive of taxes and servicecharge)
Parking 
 Yes
Wheelchair
No
accessService
Helpful, friendly,prompt
Sound level &
Just vaguely
Music
discernible,conversations are easy
 Ambience
Comfortable andclassy
Kid friendly 
 Yes
Hours
12- 11.30 PM
Home delivery 
No
Reservations
Only to be safe
 T
 A B H 2 S f r I B - P 0 6
From top: Pizza la tTagliatella; Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese; Tiramisu
KAUSHIK J N

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