SFP

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Introduction
Classification of Industrial fabric:
1. According to fabric construction: a. Woven fabric b. Knitted fabric c. Braided fabric d. Bonded fabric 2. According to materials: a. Cloth b. Lace 3. According to width of fabric: a. Broad/Lag width fabric Canvas b. Narrow fabric Ribbon, Belt, Tape.
Classification of fabric on the basis of end use:

a. Apparel fabric Clothing, Shirting and Suiting. b. Decorative fabric Wall cover, Curtain, Table cloth. c. Industrial fabric Belt, Tape.
Methods of fabric production:

1. Weaving: a. Fabric weaving b. Carpet weaving c. Pile fabric weaving
Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch
Special Fabric Production
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d. Non pile fabric weaving e. Narrow fabric weaving
2. Knitting: a. Warp knitting b. Weft knitting
3. Other methods: a. Tufting b. Manufacturing of wedding & felting c. Needle felting or needle punching d. Stitch bonding e. Non woven f. Lace g. Embroidery h. Braiding i. Lappet weaving j. Swivel weaving
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Tape
Definition:
A woven narrow fabric, generally plain weave used in non load bearing applications and the reinforcing of fabrics to resist wear and deformation.
Features:
The general features of tape are: It is a single ply woven narrow fabric. Usually plain weave is used & also simple twill or zigzag twill can be used. Width maximum 18 in UK std. and 12 in USA std. Weight less than webbing 850 gm/100 m of 25mm width. Used in non-load-bearing application. Materials used for tape are Cotton, Polyester, Nylon, Glass-fibre.
Loom used:
a. Multiple shuttle loom. b. Needle loom.
End use:
a. Electrical insulation Made from glass fibre.
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b. Dimensional stable Nylon tape coated with Polyurethane is used as dividing tape. c. Used as wicks. d. Identification of garments in laundering. e. For spindle drive in ring spinning. f. For binding tape as file covers.
Give a detailed classification of Textile fabrics and Made up goods:

Textile fabrics are basically classifying into the following two types: 1. Woven fabric 2. Non woven fabric. Non woven fabrics are mainly two types: 1. Knitted fabrics 2. Fleted or bonded fabrics. Non woven fabrics are also classified as follows: 1. Tufting fabrics. 2. Flocking 3. Wadding 4. Needle punching 5. Stitching bonding 6. Lace Woven fabrics are mainly two types: 1. Biaxial (Ordinary fabric consisting of one set warp & one set weft) 2. Tri axial (Special fabric consisting of two sets of warp & one set of weft)
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Made up goods are classified as follows: 1. Fool wear textile 2. House hold textile 3. Medical textile 4. Geo textile 5. Aero textile 6. Industrial textile 7. Marine textile 8. Apparel textile 9. Agricultural textile House hold textiles are classified as follows: 1. Bed covering 2. Blankets 3. Towel 4. Table linen 5. Kitchen textile
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Webbing
Definition:
Webbing is a woven narrow fabric; the prime function of which is load bearing. It is generally of coarse weave & multiple plies.
Features:
It is a narrow fabric woven coarsely. Multiple plies fabric. Width 450 mm. Weight should be greater than 1.3 kg/100m of 25mm width. Spun yarn is used.
End uses:
Load bearing application. Aero-plane parachute, Belt. Sling (Hanging of Micro surgery of hand) Elastic purpose.
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Ribbon
Definition:
Ribbon is attractive woven narrow fabric, characterized in the higher quality by fine warp yarns and high warp density and usually of lustrous appearance.
Features/Characteristics:
The features or characteristics of Ribbon are: It is an attractive narrow fabric. High thread density. Lustrous appearance. Fine filaments are used. Mainly satin weave, plain or twill can be used. The products have a fused edge.
End use:
Hair tie up, garments trimming. Opening Packing Decorative purpose.
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Looms
Multiple Shuttle loom: (Multi piece shuttle loom)
1. More than one tape is produced. 2. More than one shuttle is used. 3. Shuttles are traverses on belt. 4. No. of tape = No. of shuttle. 5. Tapes are placed on race board groove. 6. Length of shuttle = 3, length of pirn = 2
Seasoningup to30hrs.
Shuttle
Wooden h f Pivot Cam Pivot
Bottomshaft Bowl
Treadlelever
Fig:Multishuttleloomspickingsystem.
Mechanism: 1. Two picking cams are placed in the bottom shaft. 2. Two treadle lever which is pivoted in both side of the loom.
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3. Shuttles are placed on a wooden shaft and the wooden shaft traverses by belt and belts are joined with the treadle lever. 4. When bottom shaft rotate the eccentric of picking cam pushes the treadle lever and the shuttle is placed on sley race level. Thus alternatively picking is done.
Needle loom:
Feature: 1. One angular needle always carries the yarn horizontally.
Warp
Weftinsertionneedle
Pivot LatchNeedle Fig:Needleloomsweftinsertionmechanism.
2. Weft yarn comes from the top of the m/c. 3. Latch needle makes the loop at one side of the selvedge. 4. 2 picks/shed. 5. No. of tapes/one loom obtained.
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Mechanism: 1. There is an angular needle in one side of the loom for inserting the weft yarn. 2. Latch needle is on another side for making loops in one side of the fabric selvedge. 3. The angular needle is pivoted at one end and the other end carry yarn. 4. When shed produced the needle enter into the shed with yarn and the latch needle hold the yarn by looping and then the needle return to its original position, thus 2 picks/shed is given.
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Braid
Definition:
Braid is one kind of narrow fabric. Braid for fabric use is formed on braiding m/c by interlacing three or more strands of yarn. The process of interlacing three or more threads is in such a way that they cross one another & are laid together in diagonal formation.
State the classification of braid:

Braid mainly of two types: 1. According to elastic use: a. Elastic braid (Core material is rubber) b. Non elastic braid (Core material is wire or a bundle of thread) 2. According to the shape or formation: a. Float braid b. Round or tubular braid. c. Solid braid
Describe the structure of various forms of braid:

The structures of various forms braid are described below:
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Flat Braid: There is no core only sheath. Flat braids are produced in the form of strips or narrow flat tapes. Tubular braid: It contains core & sheath, the core is empty. Rounded braids are tubular in form which may be hollow or have a center core of some material. Tubular braid is used in fire brigade water pipe. Solid braid: It contains core & sheath and more than one sheath is possible. Core may be rubber, wire or bundle of thread. In core yarn is used without any weave.
1 Weave: In sheath 1 2 Plain, 2 2 Twill, 1 Twill, 3 1 Twill
The raw material for sheath may be cotton, Jute, mmf, Silk etc. Uses: Trimmings, Binding (Cotton, Jute).
Flat braid Tubular braid Solid braid
Mention the properties and uses of braid:

The properties of braid are given below: 1. Breaking load: Breaking load of braiding is at least 50% more than that of component yarns due to interlacement of each other.
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2. Breaking length: Breaking length of braid is 50% greater than single yarn of which it is composed. 3. Breaking extension: At least four times greater than that of component yarns, depend on the braiding angle. 4. Flexibility: Greater than that of cord produced by the some component yarn. There is a different twist direction in braid, as a result the twist is frequently changes. 5. Snarling & Untwisting: Snarling & untwisting is comparatively better than cord. 6. Smoothness: Braid has smoother surface than cord. Smoothness depends on the plait/cm. If plait/cm increases braiding angle increases and smoothness also increases. 7. Braid contraction: Braid contraction = Strand length Braid length.
End use: Braids are used in domestic, clothing, fashion, industrial, medical &
sporting areas.
General areas of uses: Shoe lace, cloth lines, sash cord, electrical wire & cable
covering, wire flexible sleeving, tube reinforcement, parachute and shock absorber cords, finishing line & netting cords, packing cords, wicking ties, girdles, flat & elastic tape, fancy trimmings.
Growth areas: Surgical, suture, tube reinforcement, ropes and cords of wide
varieties.
State the technical difficulties in braid production and how can you solve it?
The technical problems that are arises in braid production are-
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1. Inter thread friction at the point of braid formation. In this case yarn may hairy and breaks. Remedies: By using separate yarn guide. By using lubricants at the braiding point. 2. Tension differences in strands pulled from the end coils of a long bobbin and those from the bobbin which results in a limit on the bobbin length employed. The possible causes are Bobbin diameter. Thread withdrawal point on a bobbin. Variation of inter yarn friction. Distance between braiding point and several carriers. Remedies: By using spring type tension. By using dead wt. & tensioner for each yarn. By using ratchet & pawl.
Methods of making braid:

There are two methods: 1. Ric rac method 2. Edge loop method.
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Types of braiding m/c:

There are two types of braiding m/c: 1. Sliding carrier m/c. 2. Supported carrier m/c.
Illustrate the working principle of sliding carrier braiding m/c with simple sketch:
Fixedgear
Movablegear
Fig:Slidingcarrierbraidingprinciple
Sliding carrier circular braiding m/c: Circular braiding m/c is one kind of sliding carriers type m/c. Bobbin carriers are supported by a thick plate & is driven beneath by a horn gear. Here fixed gear gets continuous drive and moveable gear gets drive from it. By this moveable gear the bobbin carriers move opposite direction in two track. Horn gear transfers the bobbin in the crossing point of the two tracks. There is no drive in horn gear; it is performed only to support the carrier. Horn gear shifts the position of spur gear. Two sets of horn gear shift the spur gear in two directions; Clockwise and anti clockwise.
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Flat braid
Flanged bobbin is used in this m/c and tubular or round braid is produced in this m/c.For producing flat braid one of the horn gear is released from the m/c. As a result there produce flat braid.
Supported carrier braiding m/c:

In this type of m/c; the bobbin carrier is fully supported by horn gear which are placed either at the top of the m/c or at the same level with the top plate.
Components of a braiding m/c:
elastic
aElasticbobbin.
b
bBraidingpoint cSpindle. dSpurgear. eHorngear.
c e
fm/cpulley. gMotorpulley.
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Capacity of the m/c:

1. Conventional m/c: For flat braid: 13-49 bobbins For tubular braid: 12-48 bobbins. 2. Modern m/c: For flat braid: 9-81 bobbins For tubular braid: 8-80 bobbins
What are the differences between elasticated braid and elasticated tape?
The main differences between elasticated braid and elasticated tape are: ELASTICATED BRAID 1. It is one kind of braid consisting of elastic. 2. Braided narrow fabric. 3. At least, three warp in one set and elastic is as the same direction of warp. 4. There is no yarn in weft way direction. 5. It is produced on braiding m/c ELASTICATED TAPE 1. It is one kind of tape consisting of elastic. 2. Woven narrow fabric. 3. Consisting of one set of warp & one set of weft and elastic is as the same direction of warp. 4. Spandex yarn or textured yarn is used as weft yarn. 5. It is produced on narrow loom
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of
sliding
carrier
type
or
of multi shuttle loom or needle loom. 6. It is generally flat.
supported carrier type. 6. It may be flat, round or tubular or solid.
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Laminated fabric
Laminated fabric:
The permanent bonding of a fabric (Woven, Non-woven or knitted) to a sheet of polyurethane (most common) or polyester or polyurethane foam is called laminating & the product is called laminate or laminated fabric. Laminated fabric is a material composed of two or more layers at least one of which is a textile fabric bonded closely together by means of adhesive.
Bonded or coated fabric:

A layer of fabric structure where a face fabric is joined to a back fabric with an adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness of combined fabric is called bonded or coated fabric. It has higher strength as anchoring is occurred here.
Methods of lamination:
1. Sewing or stitching: In this method, a fabric is combined with polyurethane, polyester foam or another material by sewing or stitching. The sewing causes pores in the fabric which causes air permeability & hence heat may pass easily, lowering the insulating properly. The pore causes the poor appearance at outside. 2. Bonding by an adhesive: Here an adhesive is used to combine the sheet of foam with the fabric. The use of adhesive increase the little wt. & thickness of fabric. Main advantage is that due to use of adhesive the open end is sealed & the air permeability decreased.
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3. Welding with high frequency electrical current: The poly urethane sheet or polyester sheet is combined with fabric by high frequency electrical current welding & no other mtl. is used. The air permeability is not good. 4. Welding by fame: The film sheet is used to combine the fabric & the foam sheet. Before passing the three sheets of foam layer, film of adhesive & the fabric through a calendar, the film is heated by using flame below & after calendaring the combined sheet of laminated fabric is obtained.
Material for lamination:

1. Polyurethane (mostly used) 2. Polyester 3. Polyether 4. Polyurea 5. Lather 6. Rubber
Distinguish between bonded fabric and laminated fabric:

The differences are as follows: LAMINATE FABRIC 1. The permanent bonding of a fabric (Woven, Non-woven, BODED FABRIC 1. A layer of fabric structure where a face fabric is joined to a back fabric with an adhesive is
Knitted) to a sheet of poly urethane or poly ether or
known as bonded fabric.
polyester etc. foam material is

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called product fabric.
lamination is called
and
the
laminated
2. Wrinkle resistance or crease recovery is high. 3. Having good tailoring property.
2. Wrinkle resistance or crease recovery is low. 3. Tailoring property is not so good.
4. Having low stability. 5. Not comfortable to wear.
4. Higher stability. 5. Comfortable to wear.
List the advantage of polyurethane foam sheet for laminated fabric. Or, Write down the superior qualities of polyurethane sheet over polyester sheet for lamination.
Advantages of polyurethane sheet over polyether & polyester: Weak solubility in conventional organic solvent. Resistance to elevated temp. Good thermal insulation. High adhesiveness to practically all materials. High degree of elasticity. Lightness.
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Resistance to creasing. They may be given any degree of elasticity. Higher dimensional stability. Excellent sound proofing quality. Does not support growth of bacteria. Odorless or non-odor retaining. Does not bunch, melt, shrink or stretched. It is perspiration proof, non toxic and non allergic.
Write a note on the care and uses of laminates.

The maintenance of laminated fabrics are: Polyether: Sensitive to chemical cleaning, wash only. Polyester: Washed or chemically cleaned. Polyurethane: Washing & chemical cleaning. The following care is performed on laminated fabric: a. Washing or Wet cleaning: Ionic detergent: 5 gm/l (Concentrated) Optimum temp: 400c. For natural fibre Hand wash with care. For synthetic fibre Mechanical wash. Drying temp. 20-350c. Lower centrifugal force is required for m/c washing & rpm is 1500.
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b. Chemical cleaning or Dry cleaning: If heavily soiled fabric then: Per chloro ethylene or white spirit with an added chemical cleaning agent. Washing temp. 20-250c Centrifugal force 400 rpm Optimum drying temp. 450c
Explain the reasons for good thermal insulation property of laminate:

1. No. of trapped air in laminated fabric is more. So, laminated fabric has good thermal property. 2. The product is as like as woolen type, as a result the fabric is warmth in nature. 3. Due to adhesive used in laminated fabric, the resulting thickness of laminated fabric will increased, this will increase the thermal insulation property. 4. Thermal insulation of fabric will increase due to the uses of polyurethane foam. Because there is air pocket in the foam which will obstact the transfer of heat. 5. Due to the polymer the fabric has good thermal insulation property.
Write down the various use of laminated fabric:

Furnishing:
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Carpets, Rugs Foam thickness 6mm. Laminate weight 45 60kg/m3. Curtains Sound proofing quality, used in hotel, schools, hospitals, automobile bodies. Furniture fabrics may be laminated to decrease permanent deformation in use Lighter than laminated fabric. Foam thickness 2-3 mm. Clothing: 1. Cotton types: Cotton type coat suitable for spring & autumn. Heavy and light jackets. Waist coat & ladies coat.
1 Weave: 1 Plain, 2 2 Twill
2. Woolen type: Used as winter coat. Low breaking strength after lamination. Added thermal insulation. Increase in durability. Foam thickness 1.5 2mm and weight 30 kg/m3. 3. Knitted fabric type: Ladies coat, children cloth, waist coat.
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Mens heavy and light jacket. 30-40% lower wt. for laminated than conventional laminated fabric for same thickness. Knitted fabric provide good adhesive properties. Lamination reduces shrinkage of knitted fabric by 1-2%. Wearing properties good than woven fabric & comfortable.
Describe the method of adhesive lamination with figure:

Techniques for lamination:
Here,
1. Clothr/r. Conveyorbelt. Polywrethanefoam. Adhesiveregulator. Adhesiver/r. Intermediate&winding r/r. pressingr/r. Dryingchamber. Pressingr/r. Takeupr/r.
1. 8 7 9
2. 3. 4.
10 2
5. 6.
7. 8.
Seasoningupto30hrs.
9. 10.
Description: The fabric is carried by a conveyor belt. The raw fabric is set on cloth r/r. At the upper position there is polyurethane foam. The polyurethane foam is carried by some guide r/r. The whole system is as such as the foam makes a coating at the upper side of the fabric. Before coating, adhesive is lying on the foam from the adhesive tray. Then pressing r/r pressed the foam and fabric unis only before drying. When fabric is dried, then pressing is done again and finally
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the delivered fabric is wound. Thus the fabric is laminated by poly urethane foam.
Other methods of laminating or bonding:

1. In this case, a flame is applied below the foam before being bonded with the fabric. The fame causes melting of the foam at the flame touching point. When this foam & fabric passes through the nip of the pressing roller the laminated fabric is obtained.
Foamsheet Intermediater/r.
Pressingr/r. Laminatedfabric. Fabric.
2. In this case, adhesive is applied by adhesive roller at the underside of the fabric & then the fabric is bonded together by pressing roller. The preliminary bonded fabric is then dried in dryer. A final pressing is done to the fabric for good bonding.
Facefabric Dryingchamber Pressingr/r
Adhesivetray Pressingr/r Bondedfabric Backfabric

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3. In this case, adhesive in polymer foam is sprayed in the fabric. Then the fabric layer is pressed together by pressing roller. The pressed fabric is then passed through the heating chamber. Where the polymer adhesive sprayed previously is melted & the two fabric layer is bonded together.
Facefabric Heatingchamber Pressingr/r Adhesive spray Pressingr/r
Bondedfabric Backfabric
4. In this case, a thin film of adhesive layer in between, the face & back layer of the fabric is supplied. Before pressing of the applying flame on its way to pressing roller which presses the film layer & fabric layer to get a bonded fabric which is rolled by take up roller.
Facefabric Pressingr/r Film
Bondedfabric Backfabric
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Quality requirements for gts. In laminated fabric:

1. The foam thickness should not exceed 1.5-2mm & also in proper preparation because if foam is in high amount, then fabric posses the characteristics of foam. 2. The foam should not causes the chemical break down of fibres. 3. Durability of bonding must be good so that the bonds should not separate due to rubbing or friction. 4. The fabric must be shrinkage proof. 5. It should posses better air & water permeability according to nature of garments. 6. It must resist discoloration of fabric. 7. It must posses the permissible disappearance of foam. 8. It should not affect the drape & handle.
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Belt
Definition:
A generic term covering all forms of belt & roots of material from which belts are made up that are designed for the transmission of power or for the purpose of covering or elevating. Belts are multilayer fabric which is called treble cloth. In treble cloth there are three series of warp and weft threads which form three distinct fabrics one above the other.
Specification of belt:
2-7 ply fabric. Width = 0.4-1.5 m Thickness =3-10mm Finishes = PVC coated. Weave: Face & back twill weave, centre = Plain weave. Stitching: Extra warp per two repeat.
Types of belt:
There are mainly two types of belt. They are: 1. Endless woven belting 2. Solid woven belting
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1. Endless woven belting: A woven narrow fabric usually in plain or 2/2 twill weave in which the warp consists of one continuous thread wound in a helix to the required length & woven without join. So that the first and last picks are adjacent. 2. Solid woven belting: A belting consists of more than one ply, the plies being interlocked in the weave or bound together by binding threads in the course of weaving (Minimum three ply).
Types of binding:
Binding is of following three types: 1. By cloth interchanging 2. By thread interchanging 3. By stitching with the help of stitching thread.
What are the critical requirements of driving belt?

The critical requirements of driving belt are: 1. It should be rigid enough to carry considerable wt. of materials without undue sagging between supports. 2. It should be sufficiently flexible to permit easy bending when running over pulleys. 3. The construction of a belt must also be such that it will not permit undue stretching under load.
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Requirements of loom for producing belt or characteristics:

The requirements or characteristics are: More power is required to weave the belt. More robust loom is required. Multiple box motion is required. Single or double warp beam is required. Usual shedding mechanism mostly dobby is required. Heavy beat up force required. Often chemical finishes are applied to impart many desired properties. Sometimes adhesive & filler materials are used between two layers of fabrics to increase thickness & weight. It may be multilayer: 2-7 layers.
Explain the designing problem of belt:

The stress suffered by a belt upon bending are due to the forces of expansion and contraction between the outer and inner faces of a belt and are defined by diagram & general formula given below: Suppose a belt is running over a pulley at bending position contacted belt from angle with the center of pulley. Here, = Angle of lap r = Radius of pulley. t = Total thickness of belt a = Inner contact length of belt with pulley
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b = Centre contact length c = Outer contact length
o t r a b c
We know, Angle =
arc radius
a r
a = r Again,
b r+ t 2
t b = r + 2
Similarly, C = (r + t) So, Strain in the centre of belt =
ba a
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t r + r 2 = r t = 2r
Strain in the total belt =
ca a
(r + t ) r
r
t r
Say, r= 20, t = 2 then Strain at b =
2 2 20
1 20 = 0.05 =
Again, r = 20 cm, t = 3 cm then, Strain at b =
3 = 0.075 2 20
If, r = 10, t = 2 cm then Strain at b =

2 = 0.1 2 10
So, we can say that belt problem increases with the increase in thickness of belt but decreases with dia. of the pulley.
End uses:
Power transmission: Flat belt, V-belt. Conveying purpose: Mainly flat belt (Speed 6-210 m/min) Safety belt: Aircraft & car.
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Sorting purpose: Speed 6-10 m/min. Waist band: Police, Military. Carrying purpose: Bag. For reinforcing load carrying capability or toughness of luggage bag.
Problem of belt production:

The problem of belt production is: Undue stretching due to contraction at inner surface. Expansion at outer surface. Design problem. Stitching problem. Quick wear. Sagging.
Illustrate the construction of 3-Ply belt with drafting and lifting plan:
Three ply structures of the type described is illustrated in the form of a weft section at B in the figure and weave structure at C. In the section only one warp end of the 3-thread twill is shown in the face and back layers to preserve the clarity of the structure. The stitching yarns binds the layers effectively to prevent any layer to creep in respect of another which is undesirable as it promotes the tendency to ply separation. The weave of each layer is indicated by
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the distinctive marks. The ends and picks are designed by the face, centre, back and stitches. The draft for the structure is shown at D and lifting plan at in figure. Weave: Face
2 1
1 1
twill
Centre
Plain
Back
1 2
twill
Face
Back
X X X X X X X X X X B C F B C F B C F B C F B C F B C F X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X F B C S F B S X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X C F B X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X
X X
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Pile fabric
Pile Fabric
Warp pile fabric - Ground warp - Pile warp - Ground weft
Weft pile fabric - Ground warp - Ground weft - Pile weft
Types of pile:
Pile is of two types: 1. Cut pile 2. Loop pile Raw material: M.M.F and natural fibre both are use to produce pile fabric as raw material. a. M.M.F: 1. Acrylic 2. Nylon 3. Poly propylene (Most commonly used) 4. Polyester 5. Viscose. b. Natural: 1. Jute 2. Cotton 3. Wool 4. Silk 5. Hemp.
Warp pile fabric: If pile thread used as a warp thread then called warp pile
fabric. Terry towel is one of warp pile class. It may be cut pile and loop pile. Mainly both sided loop pile. It may one side cut and one side loop.
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All carpets are warp pile fabric. Carpet may be loop pile and cut pile. Mainly cut pile is used to produce design. Carpet may produce combination of cut pile and loop pile.
Floor covering Classification of floor covering:

1. According to different size & shape: a. Wall to wall carpet b. Carpet modulus c. Room size rugs. d. Runners e. Area rugs f. Scatter rugs 2. According to surface texture: a. Pile direction b. Pile height c. Pile thickness d. Pile density e. Cut & loop pile f. Yarn twist pile g. One level cut pile h. One level loop pile i. Multi level loop pile
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j.
Multi level loop & cut pile
3. According to manufacturing method: a. Hand knotted floor covering b. Tufting floor covering c. Woven floor covering i. ii. Hand woven carpet M/c woven carpet a) Axminister weaving b) Face to face weaving c) Wilton weaving d. Fusion bonding floor covering e. Flocked floor covering f. Needle punching floor covering
Classification of warp pile:

Warp pile fabrics are two types: 1. Terry pile ( Two set warp, one set weft used as towel) 2. Carpet
Pile interchange:
There are two systems of pile interchange: 1. South German pile interchange:
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Sharp line will not be produced. More compact structure.
3 1
2. Bunghard Vossen pile interchange: Less compact fabric. Sharp line will be produced.
2 2 3 1 2 3 1 3
Techniques of carpet weaving / State the basic systems available for the production of woven carpets:
There are mainly three systems for producing woven carpet. 1. Wire loom principle (Cut or loop pile or both) 2. Face to face weaving (Only cut pile) 3. Axminister weaving (For high quality multi color carpet with cut pile)
1. Wire loom principle: Features of wire loom carpet

1. It may be cut or loop pile 2. There are mainly heavy carpet for the contract market(shops, offices, hotels etc)
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3. It may be three or two colour fabric. 4. Two color carpet is indicated a two frame carpet. 5. Pile height is determined by the wire dimension. 6. Ground weave Plain weave either with equal or unequal tension. Combination of a
2 2
rib with
1 1
plain weave.
Ground warp yarns are threaded in the back shaft. Shedding of ground warp is cam shedding. Shedding of pile warp is cam shedding, dobby shedding or jacquard shedding. Pile yarns may be fed by separate beams or by creels when a large number of colors are used. Ground warp is known as chain warp.
Types of wire used in wire loom

There are two types of wire used in the wire loom. They are: 1. Plain wire or looping wire: There is no knife at any end. 2. Cutting wire: These wires have a knife at the top, when the wire withdrawn from the fabric, the loop is cut in a cut pile.
Types of wire loom principle:

This principle is of two types. They are:
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a. Brussels carpet b. Wilton carpet a. Brussels carpet: Loop pile fabric with 2 shot or 2 picks wire carpet structure i.e 2 picks to 1 wire using plain weave, there coarser mtl. is used & the piles are less deep. They are used in hanging. Coarser yarns are used in this system. b. Wilton carpet: Cut pile fabrics with 3 shot to 1 wire being cutting wire. The pile height depends on wire dimension. Here, finer mtl. is used & the structure is deep. The fabric handle is lighten, finer, softer & more flexible then bussels carpet In wire loom principle at the reed beat up following the wire insertion, a loop is formed over the wire at the cloth fell. The wires stay in the carpet over same cycles. After insertion of wires, the wire farthest away from the shafts is withdrawn from the carpet. A construction of carpet by producing this principle is given below:
Metalwire Pilewarp Groundwarp
Groundweft Bothloop&cutpile
Looppilewithdeadpile
Wire loom mechanism:
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1. To produce the pile, a wire is inserted across the width of the warp into a shed formed only by the pile ends. 2. Dimension of the wire determine the height of pile. 3. After the insertion of a number of picks & wires, the wire furthest away from the cloth fall is withdrawn leaving the loops which were formed over its shank. 4. The large no. of wires between the two points is necessary mainly to prevent the loops being pulled back by the tension on the pile yarn. 5. The pile may be looped, if plain wires are used or cut if the wire has cut blade at its tip end. 6. The wire is inserted into a special high shed formed by the pile yarns & simultaneously the shuttle inserts the weft into a low shed formed by the ground yarn. 7. In dobby or jacquard shedding, the high shed for wire insertion is obtained by special lifting arrangements. In cam shedding, it can be achieved either by the use of tappet with a stroke bigger than that of the ground warp tappets or by suitable leverage connections to the heald shaft which controls the pile warp. 8. The circular cross-section wire is only suitable for the production of short pile; long pile is produced on wires with a rectangular cross-section. 9. The depth of the wires differs from 1.5-25 mm.
10. The mechanism requires at the side of the loom a space which is at least equal to the width of the woven cloth. 11. In all over pile structure, the pile warp may require to be from 5-12 times length of group warp on the pile yarn. 12. During weaving in order that, the pile will not be injured, the temples act only a selvedge.
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13. In winding the cloth on to the cloth roller the underside is brought in contact with the friction roller.
Advantages of wire loom:

Cut and loop pile carpet is possible. If plain or looping wire is used then produce loop pile and if cutting wire having a knife at the top is used then produce cut pile. No mirror image effect due to face to face weaving and for using two or three color. Pile height is easily adjustable because pile height is determined by the wire dimension.
Disadvantages
Lower production due to wire insertion Over heating may be occurred due to friction.
2. Face to face weaving:

Features: A carpet produced on the face to face principle is formed by cutting through a double fabric. Pile yarns are perpendicular between two ground fabrics The difference between the bottom and top fabrics determined the pile height. The pile height is changed is changed by adjusting this distance.
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The pile yarns are cut through by means of a transversely reciprocating knife, thus forming two fabrics with facing piles. Once cut through the carpet dont greatly differ from carpets produced with the aid of wires from a weave technical point of view. The looms are less wide then wire looms since there is no system for wire insertion. The dead pile yarns can be woven in both fabrics High productivity for carpet & warp velvet weaving Always cut pile no loop pile is possible.
Principles of face to face weaving: There are two principles of face to face weaving. They are: a. Single shuttle principle b. Double shuttle principle a. Single shuttle principle: Single shuttle principle uses only one mechanism for the weft insertion on the loom. Here only one shed is formed, so a loop is formed on every pick.
b. Double shuttle principle: Here two sheds are formed in the formation of fabrics & there are two mechanisms for the weft insertion. So that two weft picks are inserted. Simultaneously one for the top & one for the bottom fabrics. Here also, a loop is formed for every 2 or 3 picks. It is also possible to work with exclusion of weft on the double shuttle technique. A weft yarn is
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inserted alternately in the top & bottom fabrics while the other insertion mechanism inserts no weft yarn.
Supply of pile warp:
Spring
Compensating roller Dropper
Front rest
Guide roller
Delivery roller
Free roller
Heald shaft
Pile warp beam
Guide roller
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Commonly used weave for face to face weaving:

The commonly used weaves are 1. Plain weave with equal or unequal tension 2.
2 2 2 2
Hop sack weave.
3.
Combined with
1 1
with the warp yarns of the later weave highly
tensioned. 4.
3 3
Combined with
2 1
the warp yarns of the later weave highly
tensioned.
Pile weave:
a. V-Weave b. U weave c. W weave
Ground weave:
1.
1 1
equal tension
2.
1 1
unequal tension
3.
2 2
twill
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4.
2 1
equal tension
5.
2 1
unequal tension
6.
2 2
3 1
Advantages of face to face weaving:

1. No supplementary treatment is needed to remove the floating pile. 2. Top & bottom carpets are equal in weight. 3. The carpet is thicken & comfortable. 4. Greater dimensional stability.
Disadvantages of face to face weaving:

1. More expensive jacquard m/c is required. 2. More stress & shedding. 3. Back side appearance is not nice.
What are the differences between wire principle and face to face principle?
The differences are as below:
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WIRE LOOM PRINCIPLE 1. In wire loom principle pile is formed by the insertion of wire. 2. The pile height is determined by the wire dimension.
FACE TO FACE PRINCIPLE 1. In this principle carpet is formed by cutting through a double fabric. 2. Pile height is determined by the distance between top & bottom fabrics.
3. It may be cut or loop pile.
3. Always cut pile no loop pile is possible.
4. There is mainly heavy carpet for the contract marker (Shops, offices, hostels etc.) 5. The looms are very wide.
4. There are mainly carpet & warp velvet.
5. The looms are less wide than wire loom since there is no system for wire insertion.
6. The piles are cut by the wire which has a knife at the top.
6. The piles are cut by means of a traversely reciprocating knife.
3. Axminster weaving Technique:

An Axminster carpet is a single cloth woven carpet whose pile yarns are laid in the fabric between the double weft with a length determined before hand. Here no warp beam is used creel used instead of warp beam There are three types of Axminster weaving. They are:
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a. Gripper Axminster b. Spool Axminster c. Spool gripper Axminster
a. Gripper Axminster weaving: In the gripper system, the dyed pile thread being wound separately upon bobbins which are placed in creel frames behind the loom. From the bobbins the threads pass between horizontal guide bars & through holes in a guide board to slots in yarn carriers. As many yarns are provided, as there are tufts of pile formed in a line across the width that is one of which longitudinal line of pile & to each split of the reed. The grippers move to their top & bottom position. In their upward movements the grippers are open and on reaching in top position, the tufts are inserted just into the grooves of the carriers & close on the projecting ends of the pile threads. Then a sufficient length of thread is formed in front of the carriers to give required height of pile either by moving the grippers. The necessary distance away from the carriers or by similarly withdrawing the fabric in which the carriers are mounted from the points of the grippers. The thread is then cut by a knife which traverses the comb to the length.
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Gripper Slottedbpard
Tuftedyarn
Fig. Gripper axminster weaving
Cutpile Chainwarp Stufferyarn
Weftyarn Advantages of Gripper Axminster weaving: It saves the raw material Pile length let same by using different yarn Density of pile will keep same by using coarse yarn. Disadvantages: The only disadvantage is the productivity is loss.
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b. Spool Axminster weaving: A carpet in which the yarn for each weft wise row is wound on a separate spool according to the design is called spool axminister weaving. This allows in an unlimited number of colours to be used in the design.
Cutpile
Chainwarp
Weftyarn
Stufferyarn
c. Spool gripper Axminster weaving: A carpet in which the yarns for each weft wise row are wound on a spool as in spool Axminster weaving allowing for unlimited use of colour is called spool gripper axminster weaving. The tufts served from the yarns are inserted at the point of weaving by grippers as in gripper Axminster weaving.
Wrap pile fabrics produced with the aid of wires depending on the surface effect.
They are: All over or continuous pile effects Figured effects with one series of pile threads which may loop or cut pile, figuring pile and ground figuring or figuring with one series of pile threads.
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Figure constructions with up to five series of differentially coloured threads in which the ornament is chiefly due to color /figuring with several series of pile thread.
Ornamentation of continuous or all over warp pile fabrics:

Ornamentation of all over warp pile fabrics may done by the following stages: 1. During Manufacturing: a. Stripe effect: By using differently colored pile threads. b. Horizontal bar effects: Which add considerable interest to the appearance of the cloth can be obtained by employing both cutting and looping wires which may be arranged in different sequences such as 8 to 10 cutting or looping wires.
c. Stepped or waves
Or
d. Other modification may include a combination of smalll dia looping wires with fall cutting wires and so on.
2. During finishing a. By pressing heated embossing r/r on the fabric. Thermo plastic fibre is used for embossing design.
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2 Shot structure: In two shot structure carpet, there is a chain warp series running alternately over two shots. Stuffer passes through the two shot without interlacement.
2 2
W e a v e s tru c tu re
3 Shot structure: In three shot structure there is a chain warp series running alternately over three shots.
Finishing Treatment of carpet:

The following treatments are performed on carpeta. Tip shearing: It is one type of brushing and it is done for raising. The pile and it cuts the irregular pile. By this operation a smooth appearance will be obtained. b. Brushing: In order to raise the pile brushing is performed. To increase the softness brushing is done.
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c. Inspection table: In this testing any visual fault of carpet is find out and removed. This fault is pile height carpet thickness etc. by taking necessary steps.
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Weft pile fabric

Features:
Weft pile fabrics structures also termed velveteen is very high density of shoting which is the finest fabrics may reach 200 pick/cm. The pile is formed by cutting through the weft yarns of course not all weft yarns are cut through since the fabric would have no more coherence. No special weaving m/c are needed to weave weft pile fabric Weft pile yarns have large floats at the tip side of the fabric. The weave used can be a weft satin or a warp rib weave. Ground weft yarns bind the fabric & this provides coherence to the fabric plain/twill weave is used. Weft pile fabric usually have a short pile The pile height is determined by the length of the floats of the pile weft yarn.
Some well known weft pile fabric

1. Manchester: This is a weft pile fabric with closely woven weft often used for work trousers. 2. Velveteen: There is no pile here over the entire fabric surface but the pile forms ribs on the fabric hair is present over the entire fabric surface.
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3. Stretch cord: This is a weft pile fabric with a great number of elastomers yarn in the warp. This makes the fabric elastic in length direction. 4. Corduroy: Fin rib quality after used for woven wear used in ladies dresses. 5. Baby roy: Very fine rib quality used in ladies dresses.
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Tufted carpet
Tufting consists in piecing yarns through a primary support fabric by means of needles in such a way that piles (Cut & loop) are formed on the support fabric. After further treatment for example, anchoring the pile by means of a pre coat & applying a secondary backing a complete finished tufted carpet is obtained.
Pile/Faceyarn Primarybacking Adhesive/Precoat Secondarybacking
Basic elements of tufted carpet:

1. Pile yarn: Man made fibre or wool is used. Polypropylene is used for its cheapest value. Properties: Well wear resistance. Good dyeing property. Easy clean. Uniform cross section. Resistance to different micro surgery organism & insects. Large knot must be avoided.
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2. Primary backing: Man made fibre such as polypropylene, polyester and of natural fibre jute is used. 3. Adhesive or pre coat: Natural, synthetic latex, synthetic rubber coating is used. 4. Secondary support: Man made fibre, natural or CBC i.e. carpet backing cloth which is made from jute is used widely.
Pile height depends on:

Feeding of pile yarn. Depth of needle. Distance between loop & primary support. Gauge: 1/10 for finer, 1/8-5/32 for coarser. 1/10 & 1/8 gauge are most widely used. Pile height: 3-40mm
What are the differences between carpet & Hessian cloth?

The differences between Hessian cloth and carpet are given below. HESSIAN CLOTH 1. There is one pick in every shed. 2. Two series of yarn are used in warp & weft yarn. CARPET 1. There may two or three pick in every shed. 2. At least three series of yarn are used i.e Pile, warp & weft
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yarn. 3. Only one warp beam is used. 3. Maximum three beams are used 4. Generally tappet is used. 5. There is no necessity of wire for pile formation. 6. No tuft is used. 7. It is light fabric. 8. Production cost is very low. 9. It is used for canvas, heavy cotton etc. 4. Special type of tappet is used. 5. Wire may be required for pile formation. 6. Tuft is used. 7. It is heavy fabric. 8. Very high production cost. 9. It is used for floor covering.
What are the factors to be considered for selecting carpet pile yarn?
1. Having strength at dry and wet condition both. 2. Moisture Regain should be high for not to produce static electricity when use. 3. Good dye affinity. 4. Good resiliency. 5. Whiteness. 6. Warmth handling.
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7. Flame resistance. 8. Soiling resistance. 9. Unaffected by dry cleaning solvent. 10. Unaffected due to heat & light. 11. Not affected by pest & micro organism. 12. Specific gravity should be preferatively low. 13. Not easily wet and should have easy to dry. 14. Easy to clean. 15. Fibre in the yarn not to be so straight and smooth for not producing slippery surface.
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Terry fabric
Terry fabric (Toweling):
Terry fabrics belong to the group of pile fabrics. The thickness of terry fabric is higher than with that fabric. They also have a higher specific surface which increases absorbency. This makes this type of fabric is really suited for towels, bathmats. Moreover, bathrobes are warm clothes since terry fabrics contain a lot of air. Terry fabrics are easy in maintenance. They need no ironing.
Classification of terry towel:

1. Terry with ordered standing loop piles (Regular loop pile) Unsized dyed warp yarn is used for pile 2. Terry with irregular loop piles Raw yarn, dyed single yarn, sized yarn, after treatment required. 3. Terry with cut piles Cotton ring yarn, dyed & sized yarn is used.
Weave:
Two types of terry are available: a. 3 Pick terry: Ground warp rib, pile or 2/1 twill. b. 4 Pick terry: Mat/ Basket weave for ground 1/3 or 3/1 for pile. For both types of terry weave the following rules are applied: 1. The loop warp yarn always binding around the 2nd weft after the full reed beat up.
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2. There must be a shed crossing of the ground warp yarn after the full reed beat up in order to avoid slippage back of the weft yarns. For example: 2/1
Raw material for Terry:

1. Fibre: For water absorbency Cotton, Polyester Cotton blended fibres are used 2. Yarn: If yarn is used as raw material it is low twisted yarn. 3. Fabric construction: Loose woven structure. It depends on pile height. 4. Yarn used in weft and warp: a. Weft: Mainly Ring & Rotor yarn having low twist and hairy yarns are used to reduce slippage. b. Warp: As ground warp highly twisted Ring & Rotor yarn are used. c. Pile: For pile warp Ring yarn is mainly used but Rotor is also used. 5. Shedding used: Normally cam shedding is used in Terry but for decorative weaving cross border dobby and jacquard shedding are used.
Yarn used:
Ground warp: Normally cotton. Weft: Normally cotton. Pile yarn: Always cotton.
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Beat up:
There are two types of beat up: 1. Long beat up 2. Short beat up 1. Long beat up
1 2
2 3
2 3 L.B
2. Short beat up
1 2
4 1
1 2 S.B
L.B
There are 3 systems for altering a series of shorter beat up with a normal beat up: 1. Moving the reed in the sley, this system is out dated 2. Different amplitude of the sley movement 3. A moveable front/breast beam referred to as fabric control.
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Principle of Terry fabric production:

The reed is mounted in a special frame. This frame can be brought in to motion mechanically or electrically. The loom drive is achieved by means of conjugated cams. The cam follower system can freely rotate around the sley shaft. The transmission mechanism from the cams to the reed has a shaft mechanism that can be buckled via a cam. A short reed beat up given in buckled position of this shaft mechanism. If the shaft mechanism is not buckled weft yarns are beaten up to the cloth fell. The breast beam & temples are moveable; the fabric is pull forward at the particular beat up. So that the wefts are not beaten up to the cloth fell. Controlling the movement of the breast beam is done by means of cam. When switching from 3 to 4 pick terry, the cam has to be changed. Disengaging the clutch will stop the breast beam movement; this means that wefts will be beaten up to the cloth fell. In this way borders without pile are woven across the full fabric.
Explain the loop formation technique of Terry pile fabric by special beat up mechanism
The variable beat up motions are an essential part of the terry pile weaving and they fall in to two main categories To create a gap between the cloth fell and the first two picks of a pile forming a group of picks termed loose picks and the picks beaten up fully which are known as fast picks The two reed positions are shown at the figure a and b respectively
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Fig: a
Fig: b
To create the gap on the loose picks the cloth itself is drawn away from the advancing reed so that the two loose picks can not reach the normal cloth fell position. On the third pick the cloth is brought forward again so that the three picks of a group join together with the previously woven cloth at the normal cloth fell point. All the above motions must be capable of precise adjustment to vary the size of the gap in order to produce shorter or longer loop it pile. In a 3 pick structure two loose picks are followed by one fast one in a 4 pick terry the order of operation are two loose, two fast and so on. When pile less headings are produced the loose pick action is necessary and must be disengaged.
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Lappet weaving
Lappet Weaving
A fabric in which figure is achieved by introducing extra warp threads is called whip thread. The figuring threads are controlled by needle bar between the reed & fell with the amount of side traverse given to the needle bar being controlled by a pattern wheel
Ground warp ground weft
Whip thread
In forming the figure, these longitudinal threads are traversed in a horizontal direction on the face side of the fabric & are bound to the face side latter by a weft pick only at the extremity of each traverse. As the clockwise movements of the warp threads takes place under the ground warp line & the action occurs between picks two points become obvious: 1. The fabric is woven face side down. 2. No interlacing at the float is possible in the middle of the traverse.
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Two distinct & independent movements of whip treads are necessary. Horizontal & figuring movements which produces the float & at the end of each traverse a vertical or stitching movement which binds this float to the ground cloth.
Features of lappet weaving

1. It is warp figuring fabric 2. Figuring thread moves in warp direction 3. Figuring thread remains at an angle with the weft 4. Provide links between the spot designs. 5. Figuring thread is moved by a shifter bar needle & needle bar mechanism. 6. Figuring thread comes from a separate warp yarn beam/package. 7. Figuring thread is called whip thread. 8. Multicolor designs across the width can be produced by using warp beam of the designed colours. 9. The face side of the fabric is the technical back side. 10. Whip thread is closely attached with fabric. 11. Maximum traverse length of whip thread is 10cm 12. Whip threads are stitched at each end of traverse.
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Features of lappet weaving m/c:

1. Used for lappet weaving 2. Horizontal vertical movement of whip thread 3. Consists of pattern wheel,Shifter bar and needle bar 4. Whip thread pass through the needle eye. 5. Needle bar provided side way movement.
Lappet Mechanism:
i. ii. iii. Figuring or whip thread movement Stitching movement Combination of these two movements completes a design.
Illustrate the weaving mechanism of lappet fabric with figure

The figure of the lappet fabric mechanism is illustrated below
Whipthread Guidebar Needle
Needleeye Patternwheel
Groove
Shifterbar Needlebar
Patternchain
Guider/r Strap Treadlebar
Tappet Bottomshaft
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Mechanism: Each whip thread is passed separately into the needle eye. Whip threads are collected in a beam .Needles are set in the needle bar at a definite interval and needle bar is mounted on the shifter bar. The movement of the shifter bar horizontally causes to move the needle bar. Shifter bar is connected to the treadle lever through a pair of straps whip threads can traverse up to 10cm horizontally; treadle lever gets motion from bottom shaft through cum bowl. When the left strap is lowered, shifter bar moves to the right and when the right strap is lowered shifter bar moves to the left. The movement of the shifter bar is controlled by pattern wheel. The pattern wheel is grooved and it varies according to the design. The movement of shifter bar increases with the decreases in teeth angle of the wheel. Pattern wheel is moved through one tooth on every two picks through the bottom shaft. For changing the design the pattern wheel is changed. Spring loaded hooks are used for the proper movement of shifter bar. This holds the shifter bar at a definite position. The number of whip threads equal to the no. of needles. It is also known as figuring technique of lappet mechanism.
Write down the distinguishing features of lappet loom from an ordinary loom:
LAPPET LOOM 1. It is used only for lappet weaving. 2. Horizontal & vertical ORDINARY LOOM 1. It is used for producing light to heavy fabric. 2. There is no such movement.
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movements of whip thread producing design. 3. Consists of extra parts such as pattern wheel, shifter bar, needle bar etc. 4. There is two warp beams. 4. Generally beam. 5. Needle is responsible for producing design. 5. By controlling the movement of heald shaft designs are produced. only one warp 3. There is no such type of parts.
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Swivel weaving
Definition:
The term swivel was formerly applied to the type of loom in which several narrow fabric such as hat bands, ribbons, tapes etc. were independently formed along side each other. Swivel fabric is a fabric in which figure is achieved by the introduction of additional weft thread is feed from a series of small shuttles mounted over the top of the weaving surface.
Characteristics/ features of swivel weaving:

1. It is weft figuring fabric. 2. Here figures are produced by discontinuous yarn 3. Figuring threads move in weft direction. 4. Figuring threads are called swivel thread. 5. Figuring threads are parallel to the ground weft. 6. Normally no links between the spot design. 7. Face side float design. 8. Multicolor spot design can be produced across the width of the fabric as well as in each longitudinal line. 9. Structurally more stable because of several stitching. 10. Large width fabric. 11. Color obtain is unlimited.
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12. Fly shuttle is also used with swivel shuttle. 13. Low productivity. 14. Normally it is used for saree.
Purpose of swivel weaving:

1. To minimize costly figuring weft waste%. 2. To produce designs with various types of weft color yarn. 3. To produce a richer appearance to the cloth. 4. Stable design. 5. Both end bounded selvedges. 6. Extra weft yarn inserted only when and where required with little or not extended material between the figure.
Discuss in detail the basic operations of swivel weaving with sketch:

1. In swivel weaving pick at will mechanism is used. 2. The ground pick is inserted as an ordinary cloth & the figuring thread is picked after the insertion of the ground weft intricately. Thus the firm spot is obtained in the position at the formation of shed. 3. The motions mainly controlled by the Jacquard cards acting upon special hooks from which card & lever connections are made to the respective parts of the swivel mechanism. 4. The small shuttles are carried in holders supported in frame which is mounted in front of the sley.
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5. When the ground weave is woven, swivel shuttle remains at the top. 6. After the insertion & beating up of each pick of ground weft in the ordinary manner, the ends are raised; that the swivel weft has to pass under the frame that carries the swivel shuttle is lowered into the shed opening. 7. Each shuttle is moved from one holder to another through the shed made for it and inserts a separate pick of weft, while the ordinary picking motion is thrown out of action. 8. Then the carrying frame is raised out of the way & during the beating up of the swivel picks, the take up motion is rendered in operative. 9. The swivel shuttle propulsion can be done by two ways: 10. Rack & pinion arrangement. 11. Circular track & pusher rod system.
Fig: Basic operation of swivel weaving.
Difference between lappet & swivel weaving:

The differences between lappet & swivel weaving are:
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LAPPET WEAVING 1. Warp figuring fabric
SWIVEL WEAVING 1. Figuring threads move in weft diversion
2. Figuring threads remain at an angle with the weft. 3. Provide links between the spot.
2. Figuring threads move
3. There is no link between the spot.
4. Figuring thread in laid by a shifter bar & needle bar
4. Figuring thread is laid by a swivel shuttle.
mechanism. 5. Figuring thread comes from a large warp package on beam. 5. Figuring thread comes
from the pirn in swivel shuttle.
6. Figuring threads move in warp direction. 7. Figuring thread is called whip thread 8. Production is high 9. Lower structural stability. 10. Multiple color design across the width can be produced by
6. Figuring threads move in weft direction. 7. Figuring thread is called swivel thread. 8. Production is lower. 9. Higher structural stability. 10. Multiple produced color by design swivel
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using warp beam.
shuttle.
Comparison between swivel & embroidery ornamentation:

SWIVEL 1. Ornamentation by weaving. EMBROIDERY 1. Ornamentation on woven
fabric by embroidery m/c. 2. Design float on face side. 3. Swivel threads always traverse parallel with the weft of 2. Design float on both side. 3. Embroidery threads may at any angle.
foundation cloth & at right angle to the warp threads. 4. No foundation cloth is 4. Foundation cloth is required.
required. 5. Figuring threads put in 5. Figuring wrapping. 6. Design ornamentation thread is known as embroidery thread. threads put in
interlacement. 6. Design ornamentation thread is called swivel thread.
7. Stable design due to stitching.
7. Less
stable
design
for
no
stitching.
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8. Figuring
threads
move
by
8. Figuring needle.
threads
move
by
swivel shuttle.
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Medical textile
Introduction:
Textile medicals used in the medical is related with health care & hygienic section. The application, importance & function etc. may be termed as Medical textile. Material used in medical textile includes fibres, more & composite fabrics. These are used in a number of separate & specialized applications.
Classification:
1. Non implantable materials: Wound dressings, bandages, plasters. 2. Extracorporeal devices: Artificial kidney, liver, lung etc. 3. Implantable materials: Artificial joints. 4. Health care/ Hygiene products: Bedding, clothing, wipes, operating rum garments.
Fibre properties:
1. Absorbency: They will absorb many times then their own weight, even when under pressure. 2. Retention: They will retain the absorbed liquid when subjected to pressure. 3. Swelling: They will swell many times as they absorb fluids. 4. Extraction: They extract moisture from non aqueous fluids or a liquid.
Yarn properties:
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1. It is possible to blend OASIS with natural synthetic fibres. 2. Yarns are a very versatile form of super absorbent. 3. They can be knitted into stretch fabrics. 4. They can also be twisted together to form ropes. 5. It is also possible to locate them precisely into fabrics to give absorbency at specific point. 6. Currently yarns are commercially available in a range 50 to 2000 tex (0.3 to 12S cotton count) containing up 50% OASIS. The absorbency properties are more dependent upon the OASIS, content than the spinning system used. OASIS = Fibre trade name. OASIS is produced by cross link from Acrylic acid.
Non woven fabrics:

The following factors that may be required for medical product can be built on to non- woven fabrics containing super absorbed. High absorbency even under pressure of a range of aqueous based fluids. Softness & flexibility otherwise it should not use. Low migration of the super absorbent when dry and wet. High rate of liquid uptake. Fabric dispersion when wet.
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Weft knitting:
A weft knitted fabric is ideal for medical textile application, where a flexible material is required as it is made by interlinking a series of loops on to a collective mesh formation. These are ideal for medical applications with active body part movements such as arms & legs. The recovery properties can be increased by introducing rubber or elastic threads to the main knitting yarn.
Core spun yarn:

The yarn is made with three separate threads being twisted together into one common knitting yarn. The centre core threads of the yarn can be either an elastane or rubber & this thread is covered by twisting a nylon thread onto its surface. The main ground yarn is then twisted onto the threads & this completes the spinning process. In order to obtain differing degrees of yarn recovery, it is necessary to use different widths of rubber. Also an elastane thread can be used in an unrelaxed state which is then exposed to a steam treatment. This treatment will cause the elastane to contract & the effect is to bulk the ground yarn which is spun in a relaxed state.
Application of textile in medical products:

1. Disposable incontinence product: High levels of super absorbent fibre can be incorporated in to absorbent cares allowing the construction of thin product with high absorbency. 2. Wipes & absorbent pads: Addition of OASIS to pads & wipes to improve their ability to rapidly immobilize. Large amount of bloods & other aqueous slippage in operating theatre analytical laboratory or general hospital use.
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3. Disposal containers: Super absorbent non woven fabrics can be used as lining for containers designed for the disposal of items contaminated with hazardous fluids to prevent leakage. 4. Drapes: Protective garment with a high resistance to prevention of aqueous fluids can be produced from non woven fabrics. 5. Wound core: OASIS can be included with in secondary wound core products to provide additional capacity to absorb wound exudates. This help to decrease the frequency of dressing changes.
Miscellaneous products:
Head bands by sweat control surgeons. Diagnostic testing. Dental pads.
List the fibres used for Medical Textile:

Fibres that are used for medical textile are listed below: Cotton Polypropylene Ploy ethylene Polytetrafluro ethylene Polyester Viscose Silk
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Cambinie Carbon Graphite Nylon
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Geo-textile
Definition:
Textiles used in the ground are termed Geo textiles. Any permeable textile materials used for filtration, drainage, separation, reinforcement and stabilization purposes as an integral part of civil engineering structures of earth, rock or other construction materials.
Materials and structures:

Natural & synthetic materials can be used. Jute, Absorbent cotton, substitute, polypropylene, acrylic, rayon, monofilament, spun yarn and thermoplastic yarn can be used. Woven, non-woven and knitted fabrics can be used as Geo textile material.
Classification of Geo textile:

Geo textiles should include constituent polymers or fibres elements, the form or method of construction, weight and thickness, engineering function, end use and engineering properties. 1. According to polymers or fibrous elements: a. PP b. PE c. PES d. Nylon
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2. According to form or method: a. Melt bonded Fabric b. Woven c. Non woven d. Needle punched e. Resin bonded f. Combined non woven technique. 3. Knitted fabric a. Warp knitted fabric b. Weft knitted fabric
Warp knitted weft insertion geo textiles offer the following advantages when compared to woven geo textile:
1. Strength: For strength they are lighter than woven geo textiles using the same yarn. This makes for easier handling & laying on site, thus transport & labour costs are less in real terms. 2. Knitted geo textile has exceptional tear strength. Additional strength can be designed & built in to the weft insertion. 3. Knitted geo textiles can be incorporate as additional fabric to form a true composite geo textile, the fabric being simply knitted in. 4. The individual yarns in the warp knitted weft insertion geo textiles are straight when incorporated. So, they are able to take up the strain immediately on loading.
What functions are performed by Geo textiles?

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The functions are: Filtration Separation Drainage Protective shield against erosion Reinforcement Land stabilization/support Earth filling Moisturizer
Discuss the potential areas of application of Geo textile:

Applications are: 1. Road construction: Construction of road over soft land (Link road) 2. Rail road: To prevent upward pushing of mud. 3. Road surface: For the reinforcement of asphall in road surface. 4. Area stabilization: Swam plants. 5. Foundation for industrial development 6. Waste disposal: Cover and seal in waste. 7. Ground drainage 8. Canal and river lining 9. Marine erosion control 10. Construction of new land area
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11. Harbour & dock construction 12. Slope embankment reinforcement.
Properties: More strength More absorbency power Weight & thickness: 70-100oz/yd2 Engineering properties: Tensile strength: 5-30 lb/inch Elongation: 7-500% Modulus: 5000-20000 lb/inch2
Special Geo textiles:

Geo grid: A network of integrally connected tensile elements used to reinforcement & stabilize civil engineering structures. Geo membrane: A barrier of very low permeability which may or may not incorporate textile reinforcement used to control the flow of fluids. Geo strands: Core of filament enclosed in a plastic sheath. Webbings: Coarse woven fabric made of strips. Mats Geo nets: Angle 60-900. Composite geo textiles: Filters mesh fabric and plastic pipe.
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Geo Jute
Introduction:
It is a biodegradable soil stabilizing blanket to control erosion on disturbed earth surface while encouraging the growth of protective negotiation.
Give the typical specification of Geo Jute:

Raw materials: Cuttings, Caddis & lowest part of long jute. Warp/10 cm: 6.5 Weft/10cm: 4.5 Width: 122 cm Weight: 600 gm/linear meter 1000 gm/linear meter
What are the prime functions of Geo Jute?

The functions are: 1. Control erosion of base soil allows the formation of vegetation to give long term protection. 2. On initial rainfall jute will absorb up to 2.5 lift of water per square of geo jute, so reduces over land flow. 3. Helps to reduce loss of grass seeds 4. Mesh structure of jute forms micro tarraus which controls rates of flows. 5. Prevents dehydration of soil.
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End use:
Road & railway slopes, bridge alentments, medium strips. Drainage, ditches, culvert and table drain out let Lake, canal & river banks. Farm & forestry. Green ward development in sports ground, airports, housing estates etc. Sand dune, stabilization.
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Label
Introduction:
Label is garment accessories and also a narrow fabric. It is the most important component of carpet quality garments because it contains garments size, fibre composition, care information, country of origin, company name, trade mark etc which are pre requisite information for any type of garments & also for export quality garments. Raw material: Polyester yarn. Loom used: Air jet, Rapier. Shedding: Jacquard shedding is used. Label size: Ranges from 1/4 - 8
Types:
There are two types of label 1. Woven label 2. Printed label
Types of woven label:

Woven labels are classified according to use: 1. Main label: It includes the trade name of buyer. 2. Sub label: Sub labels are three types:
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3. Size label: It indicates the size of the garments 4. Care label: It contains care instruction. 5. Composition label: It contains fibre composition.
Printed label:
1. Main label 2. Sub label 3. Size label 4. Care label 5. Composition label 6. Structure: Weave design 7. Satin: 4/1, 5/1, 6/1 8. Taffeta: 1/1, 2/1, 2/2, 3/1.

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Classification of fabric on the basis of end use:

Methods of fabric production:

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

d. Non pile fabric weaving e. Narrow fabric weaving

2. Knitting: a. Warp knitting b. Weft knitting

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Give a detailed classification of Textile fabrics and Made up goods:

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Wooden h f Pivot Cam Pivot

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Pivot LatchNeedle Fig:Needleloomsweftinsertionmechanism.

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

State the classification of braid:

Describe the structure of various forms of braid:

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Flat braid Tubular braid Solid braid

Mention the properties and uses of braid:

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Methods of making braid:

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Types of braiding m/c:

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Supported carrier braiding m/c:

Components of a braiding m/c:

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Capacity of the m/c:

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

of multi shuttle loom or needle loom. 6. It is generally flat.

supported carrier type. 6. It may be flat, round or tubular or solid.

Prepared by: Shameem, Murshed & Kamal 28th Batch

Special Fabric Production

Bonded or coated fabric:

Material for lamination:

Distinguish between bonded fabric and laminated fabric:

Knitted) to a sheet of poly urethane or poly ether or

known as bonded fabric.

polyester etc. foam material is

called product fabric.

2. Wrinkle resistance or crease recovery is high. 3. Having good tailoring property.