National Textile University

B.Sc. Textile Engineering

Final Year Project [2006-2010]

COMPARISON BETWEEN ONE-STEP AND TWO-STEP DYEING OF POLYESTER/VISCOSE BLENDED FABRIC OF DIFFERENT BLEND RATIO AND TO CHECK ITS PILLING AND FASTNESS PROPERTIES.

Project Conducted By:

IRFAN JAMIL 06-NTU-113

Project Supervised By:

Mr. Shahzad Zadi (lecturer TPD, NTU)

Department of Textile Processing

11 KM, Sheikhupura Road, Manawala, 37610 Faisalabad, Pakistan. Ph: +92 41 923008

Abstract:

As we know from last two decades that the world is making progress and new inventions appeared in field of science and especially in textile industry. Today the textile industries were facing many problems like more energy consumption, more chemical and more production cost.

The objective of this project is to find a way to improve the short and less costly method of dyeing.

Polyester/viscose blends were dyed using two different routes i.e. one-bath one-step process and one-bath two-step process and it was noticed that later process is long, costly and requires more than one machine to complete dyeing procedure.

So the experimental work was planned and was started to dye the PV fabric of different blend ratios. Then these dyed samples were tested for fastness and pilling properties and results were noted. It was observed that there was no appreciable difference in these properties except % color strength.

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I Dedicate This Humble Effort Of Mine First Of All To Almighty Allah And Then To My Loving Parents

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All thanks to ALLAH Almighty, who blessed me with the ability, determination, devotion and passion to complete this project. Then there are lots of people i would like to thank for a huge variety of reasons. Firstly, I would like to thank my Supervisor, Mr. Shahzad Zadi. I could not have imagined having a better advisor and mentor for this project, and without his common-sense, knowledge, perceptiveness and cracking-of-the-whip, I would never have finished. I would also like to thank all the rest of the academic and support staff of Textile Chemistry Department, particularly Mr. Hammad Majeed, and Textile chemistry lab staff for their support. At the end I thank my friends and those hidden characters who have unintentionally got missed but helped me a lot in actual. Thanks to all.

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Table of Contents: Chapter # 01

1. Introduction: 1.1. Background: 1.2. Significance: 1.3. Literature review: 1.3.1. Cellulosic Fibers: 1.3.2. Viscose rayon: 1.3.3. Polyester: 1.3.4. Blending: 1.3.5 How to select Blend Constituents: 1.3.6 Why are polyester and viscose often blended to make fabrics? 1.3.7. What is dyeing? 1.3.7.1. Steps involved in the dyeing process: 1.3.7.2. Mechanism of dyeing of Polyester: 1.3.7.3. Mechanism of dyeing of viscose: 1.3.8. Reactive dyes: 1.3.9. Disperse dyes: 1.3.10. Functions of auxiliaries: 1.3.10.1. Dispersing agent: 1.3.10.2. Penetrating agent: 1.3.10.3. Anti-migrating agent: 1.3.10.4. Alkali (sodium bicarbonate): 1.3.11. Thermosoling: 1.3.12. Pilling: 1.3.13. Munsell color system: 1.4. Specific Objectives and Scope of the Project 1 1 1 2 3 3 3 5 6 7 8 9 9 9 10 10 11 12 12 12 13 13 13 17 19 20 21 21 21 21 21 22 22 22 23 23 23 23 24 24 24 25 25 25

Chapter # 02
2. Experiment 2.1. Materials 2.1.1. Specification of fabric used 2.1.1. Chemicals and auxiliaries used: 2.2. Machinery and equipment: 2.2.1. Application equipment: 2.2.1.1. Thermosol: 2.2.1.2. Steamer: 2.2.2. Testing equipment: 2.2.2.1. Rubbing fastness tester 2.2.2.2. Light fastness tester 2.2.2.3. Washing fastness tester 2.2.2.4. Pilling tester 2.2.2.5. GSM cutter 2.2.2.6. Color strength 2.3. Methods: 2.3.1. Application method:

2.3.1.1. One-bath pad-dry-thermofix method: 2.3.1.2. One-bath two-step pad-thermoslo-alkali pad steam method. 2.3.2. Testing methods: 2.3.2.1. Crock fastness test: 2.3.2.2. Light fastness test: 2.3.2.3. Washing fastness test: 2.3.2.4. Pilling test: 2.3.2.5 Spectrophotometer:

Chapter # 03
3. 3.1. 3.2. 3.3. 3.4. 3.5. 4. 4.1. 4.2. 5. Results and discussion: Color fastness: Washing fastness test: Light fastness test: Pilling test: Spectrophotometer: Summary and future work: Key findings of project: Suggestions for future work: References

27 28 30 30 32 33 35 36 38 38 38 39 41 42 43 45 45 45 45 46 46

Chapter # 04

Chapter # 05

List of tables:
Table 2.2 Chemicals and auxiliaries used Table 2.1 Specification of fabric used Table 1.1 Comparison of different properties Table 2.3 Thermosol Table 2.4 Steamer Table 2.5 Rubbing fastness tester Table 2.6 Light fastness tester Table 2.7 Washing fastness tester Table 2.8 Pilling tester Table 2.9 GSM cutter Table 2.10 Color strength Table 2.11 Comparison of characteristic of the one-bath method and the one bath two step method Table 3.1 crocking results Table 3.2 Washing fastness results Table 3.3 Light fastness results Table 3.4 Pilling test evaluation Table 3.5 Values from spectrophotometer vi 2 21 21 22 23 23 23 24 24 24 25 26 38 39 41 42 43

List of figures:
Figure 1.1 cellobiosic chain of cellulosic fibers Figure 1.2 Structure of viscose rayon Figure 1.3 Structure of polyester Figure 2.1 one-bath pad-dry-thermofix method Figure 2.2 One-bath two-step pad-thermoslo-alkali pad steam method Figure 2.3 Crockmeter Figure 2.4 Light Fastness Tester Figure 2.5 HT Dyeing Machine Figure 2.6 Martindale tester Figure 2.7 Spectrophotometer Figure 3.1 Grey scale for color change Figure 3.2 Grey scale for staining 3 5 6 27 28 31 32 33 35 36 39 40

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Chapter # 01
1. Introduction:
1.1. Background:
Fibre blends have an important place in the world textile market. However the number of possible blends and blend ratio is exceedingly large even though the no of blends in general use is smaller. It is estimated that by 1995, 16% composition of textile fibre worldwide will be polyester/cellulose blends. Polyester/viscose has shown itself as an essential blend for apparel wear, substituting to very great extent 100% polyester over the last decade. The superior comfort of the blend compared with that of polyester is without question and it is this, coupled with the fact that more recently both chemical and physical finishes can produce fabric qualities unrecognisable from the starting substrate that has led to polyester/viscoses outstanding popularity. Viscose, also known as Rayon, is a reprocessed cellulose fiber, made from wood pulp. It was the first manufactured fiber, and yet, since it is made of cellulose, it dyes and feels like a natural fiber. It absorbs moisture from the skin like cotton. Polyester is a synthetic fiber derived from coal, air, water, and petroleum. Developed in a 20thcentury laboratory, polyester fibers are formed from a chemical reaction between an acid and alcohol. In this reaction, two or more molecules combine to make a large molecule whose structure repeats throughout its length. Polyester fibers can form very strong molecules that are very stable and strong [1].

Comparison of different properties:

parameters

Comparative cotton rating viscose polyester Poor Poor Poor Poor Very good Poor

Moisture Regain Thermal protection Air permeability Softness Smoothness Static dissipation Aesthetic Drape Luster Crease recovery Uniformity Utility Performance Ant pilling Wash & wear

Good Good Very good Good Poor Good

Very good Very good Good Very good Good Very good

Good Poor Poor Poor

Very good Very good Poor Very good

Poor Very good Very good Good

Good Good

Very good Poor

Poor Very good

Table 1.1 Comparison of different properties

1.2.

Significance:

Today textile industry is facing energy crises so every industrialist demands such processes which are cost saving i.e. produce same results with less cost which can satisfy your customers. Although polyester has played an important role in a wide variety of single-fiber products, it has also been an important feature of multi-fiber blends. Polyester/viscose has shown itself as an essential blend for apparel wear, substituting to very great extent 100% polyester. Polyester/viscose blends can be dyed through many routes but it is necessary to know that which method is cost effective and can give good and reproducible results in less time. 2

My thesis is about to compare the one-step and two-step dyeing of polyester/viscose blended fabric on different blend ratio and to check their fastness and pilling properties. As two-step process require additional steps of alkali padding and steaming which is eliminated in one-step process with comparable results. Every one demands such fabrics which give comfort and good aesthetic appeal so polyester/viscose fabric is very suitable to provide these properties because Viscose Rayon has a silk-like aesthetic with superb drape and feel and retains its rich brilliant colors.

1.3. Literature review: 1.3.1. Cellulosic Fibers:

The basis of the chemical composition of all vegetable fibers is cellulose which is present to a greater or lesser extent, sometimes modified by other products, in a series of fibers which range in their simplest form from cotton to viscose and cuprammonium rayon etc. and includes the so-called bast fibers. As far as their dyeing performance is concerned all these fibers can be placed in the same group. Although there are naturally some differences, these in no way alter the general basis of their dyeing behavior. Cellulose consists of a chain of cllobiose like that illustrated in Fig. 1.1.

It can be observed that each positional group (in this chain) is repeated every two units [2].

1.3.2. Viscose rayon:

As far back as 1664, English naturalist Robert Hooke theorized that artificial filaments might be spun from a substance similar to that which silkworms secrete to make silk. This was often tried by scientists in the ensuing years who sought an "artificial silk", yet no one was to 3

succeed until in 1855 the Frenchman did so, George Audemars. By dipping a needle into a viscous solution of mulberry bark pulp and gummy rubber, he was able to make a thread. While interesting from a scientific standpoint, this process was hardly viable economically - it was very slow, and required a great deal of skill and precision. The first commercial synthetic fiber was produced by Hilaire de Bernigaud, Count of Chardonnay (1839-1924) after 29 years of research, was patented in 1884, and manufactured by him in 1889. This cellulose-based fabric known as Chardonnay silk was pretty but very flammable; it was removed from the market. Soon after, the English chemist Charles Frederick Cross and his collaborators Edward John Bevan and Clayton Beadle discovered the viscose process in 1891. Courtaulds Fibers produced the first commercial viscose rayon in 1905; the first in the United States was in 1910 by the American Viscose Company. Initially rayon was called "Artificial Silk", and many other names. In 1924 (1926?), a committee formed by the U.S. Department of Commerce and various commercial associations decided upon the name "rayon". It was called "rayon" for one of two reasons: either because of its brightness and similarities in structure with cotton (sun = ray, -on = cotton). Or because the naming committee couldn't find a name from the thousands entered in a contest they sponsored, and who hoped to shed a "ray of light" on the subject (from rayon, French for ray. [3] Regenerated Cellulose fibre Viscose fibres are a form of regenerated cellulose that are manufactured through a complex chemical process. Converted into a series of intermediate cellulose compounds, the final spinning process regenerates cellulose from a cellulose xanthenes dope. Involving strong sodium hydroxide and sulphuric acids as well as carbon disulphide, there are inevitably environmentally concerns surrounding the process. Latest technology does however attempt to address these issues.Generally viscose fibres have an irregular round cross section with a porous internal structure. It is however possible to spin viscose with a flat cross section such as Viloft which provides the fibre with improved moisture absorption. Viscose is a strong and durable fibre which is abrasion resistant yet soft to handle and has good drape properties. It is extremely adsorbent and breathable which combine to make garments made from the fibre comfortable. [4]

Structure of viscose rayon:

Figure 1.2 Structure of viscose rayon

1.3.3. Polyester:
In 1926, United States-based E.I. du Pont de Nemours and Co. began research into very large molecules and synthetic fibers. This early research, headed by W.H. Carothers, centered on what became nylon, the first synthetic fiber. Soon after, in the years 1939-41, British research chemists took interest in the du Pont studies and conducted their own research in the laboratories of Calico Printers Association, Ltd. This work resulted in the creation of the polyester fiber known in England as Terylene. In 1946, du Pont purchased the right to produce this polyester fiber in the United States. The company conducted some further developmental work, and in 1951, began to market the fiber under the name Dacron. During the ensuing years, several companies became interested in polyester fibers and produced their own versions of the product for different uses. Today, there are two primary types of polyester, PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PCDT (poly-1, 4cyclohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate). PET, the more popular type, is applicable to a wider variety of uses. It is stronger than PCDT, though PCDT is more elastic and resilient. PCDT is suited to the heavier consumer uses, such as draperies and furniture coverings. PET can be used alone or blended with other fabrics to make clothing that is wrinkle and stain resistant and retains its shape [5].

Structure of polyester:
Chemically polyester is of ester of dihydric alcohol and terephthalic acid. The simplest polyester is prepared from dimethyl terephthalate and ethylene glycol.

Figure 1.3 Structure of polyester

1.3.4. Blending:
What is blend? Process required to convert two or more kinds of staple fibers into a single yarn composed of an intimate mixture of component fibers e.g. polyester/cotton, polyester/wool, polyester/viscose, nylon/wool etc.

Characteristics desired in a blend yarn: The constituent fibres should be arranged at random in the yarn cross section. The ratio between the blended fibres should be uniform at any cross section of the yarn. There should not be any long-term or short-term irregularity in blend ratio of blended fibres.

1.3.5. How to select Blend Constituents:

Selection of Blend Constituents depends upon the following factors:

1. Type of Fibre: Depending upon the end use of the fabric, blend constituents are chosen. For example, it is well known hat a polyester-cotton yarn looks fuller as compared to the lean look of polyester-viscose yarn. Therefore for light constructions like shirtings, polyester-cotton blend is used. However polyester-viscose blend is preferred for medium and heavy construcitons such as suiting.

2. Compatibility of blend fibres: Compatibility must be there in terms of the following properties:

i.

Length and Denier of Fibres: As a general rule, these two fibre properties should be nearly the same for all the constituents.For example in a viscose rayon cotton blend, the rayon staple of 1.5 denier and 29-32 mm length is generally used since the cotton component used has a denier of around 1.5 and a length of 28mm.

ii.

Extensibility A large difference in the breaking elongation of the fibres in a blend adversly affects the yarn tenacity.

iii.

Density The blend fibres should prefereably have the same density. Any large differences on this account will lead to selctive separation while conveying the blended stock through ducts under the influence of air suction in the blow rooms.

iv.

Dispersion Properties This property describes the ability of an individual fibre to separate from its group and disperse thoroughly within the fibre matrix of the blend to produce an intimate and homogeneous blend.

v.

Drafting Properties Some fibres like viscose are outstanding it terms of draftability. These fibres, when blended with other fibres act as good carriers to obviate the trouble relating to drafting.

vi.

Dyeing Properties In case the blend yarn or fabric is to be dyed subsequently, due consideration should be given to the dyeing properties of individual fibre components.

1.3.6. Why are polyester and viscose often blended to make fabrics?
Polyester fabric is a versatile and important man-made fabric. It has an outstanding characteristic of resisting wrinkle and springing back into its crisp smooth shape. It is strong, and soft hand. The fabric is resistant to stretching and shrinkage. These are quick to dry and are resilient. It has an excellent pleat retention property. It requires minimum care and is easily washable.

Viscose rayon has silk like aesthetic with superb drape and feel and retains its rich brilliant colors. Its cellulosic base contributes many properties similar to those cotton and many other natural cellulosic fibers. Viscose rayon is moisture absorbent (more so than cotton), breathable, comfortable to wear, and easily dyed in vivid colors. It does not built-up static charge, nor will it pills unless the fabric is made from short, twist less yarns. Rayon is comfortable, soft to the skin, and has moderate dry strength and abrasion resistance.

1.3.7.

What is dyeing?

Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material in loose fiber, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye.

1.3.7.1. Steps involved in the dyeing process:

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Disaggregation Exhaustion Adsorption Diffusion/absorption Fixation [6]

1.3.7.2.

Mechanism of dyeing of Polyester:

The dyeing of hydrophobic fibres like polyester fibre with disperse dyes may be considered as process of dye transfer from a liquid (water) to substrate and dyeing is considered to take place in the following stages: Dispersion of the dye in the solid phase into water by breaking up into molecules (dissolution in water). Exhaustion of dye molecule to fiber surface. Adsorption of the dissolved dye from solution onto fibre surface. Diffusion of the dye molecules from the fibre surface into interior of the fibre substance towards the centre. ( It may be due to high temperature or due to carrier) Fixation of dye molecules. Under normal conditions of time and temperature, the adsorption rate is always higher than the diffusion rate (third stage) and it is the third step that governs the overall rate of dyeing.

1.3.7.3. Mechanism of dyeing of viscose:

The mechanism of dyeing of viscose fibre with reactive dyes can be illustrated as: Dissolution of dye molecule in water to form homogeneous solution. Exhaustion of dye molecules from dye liquor to fiber surface. Adsorption of dye molecule on the fibre surface. It is actually the movement of dye molecule from the dye bath to fibre surface. Penetration of dye molecule from the fabric surface to interior of structure. The rate of diffusion being determined by temperature. Fixation of dye molecules by making covalent bonds with OH of cellulose.

1.3.8. Reactive dyes:

Reactive dyes are water soluble dyes, mostly used for dyeing of cellulosic and protenic fibers. These are mostly used dyes for dyeing of cellulose. The first reactive dye was among procion MX range.

Chemical composition: A reactive dye molecule usually consists of four main components i.e. the chromophore, the reactive group, the bridging group and solublizing group. The reactive group in reactive dye molecules forms covalent bind with reactive sites in cellulose molecules. The reactive dyes can be classified into following main types: Nucleophilic substitution reactive dyes. Nucleophilic addition reactive dyes. Mix bifunctional dyes.

The reactive dyes that attach to substrate by nucleophilic substitution reaction include the Dichloro-s-triazine, Monochloro-s-triazine dyes, Quinoxaline derivatives and 2-chlorotriazol derivatives . the dyes forming bond by nucleophilic addition reaction are Vinyl sulphone dyes, vinyl sulphonamide dyes, acrylamide dyes etc.

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1.3.9. Disperse dyes:

Disperse dyes are water insoluble dyes( i.e. form dispersion in water) used for dyeing and printing of hydrophobic fibers. They were initially developed for dyeing of cellulose acetate because these fibers show goog dyeing behaviour with those dyes which have less solubility in water. But now a days disperse dyes are used for dyeing of other fibers such as nylon, cellulose triacetate and polyester. But there is major (up to 90%) use of disperse dye is for polyester dyeing. Disperse dyes are non ionic in nature so salt is not used for their dyeing. The have no affinity for fibers as in for dyes for cotton. Their particle size is 0.5-2nm that is why their dispersion appears to be solution. All disperse dyes are not suitable for thermosol dyeing because all dyes cannot bear such high temperature. As far as for suitability of dyes four clases are given below. Dyes having good fastness to sublimation Dyes having medium fastness to sublimation Dyes having very poor fastness to sublimation Dyes not suitable for thermosol dyeing

Disperse dyes may available in liquid, granular and powder form. In powder form these dyes have dusting properties which may cause staining. Granular form dyes are better than powder form. In liquid form these dyes have good solubility but little life. Dyes should have good dispersion properties, less migration and good penetration properties.

Chemical description: The disperse dyes may be classified as follow: Azo dyes Anthraquinone dyes Other chromophore

For commercial application, the azo group of disperse dyes is the largest class, mainly because of ease of variation in their chemical structure( thus leading to different properties and different shades) and also because of their simple synthesis procedure. The azo dyes are further divided into amino azo benzene dyes, hetrocyclic dyes and diazo dyes.

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The anthraquinone disperse dyes are mainly used for color ranges of reds and blues. In these shades, anthraquinine dyes are better than azo dyes because of ther better clarity and stability against hydrolysis and reduction. The other chromophores included in class of disperse dyes are Quinophthalone dyes, Methine dyes, Naphthalimidee dyes, Nitro dyes and Indigo dyes. [7]

1.3.10.

Functions of auxiliaries:

1.3.10.1. Dispersing agent:

It makes the uniform dispersion of dye particles in water. It reduces the ability of dye molecules to form aggregates or agglomerates. For dispersed dyeing, dispersing agent should be of anionic nature.

Mechanism of dye dispersion: The head of anionic dispersing agent is negatively charged and it presents on the surface of the dye particle due to its solubilising nature. In this way, a circle of negative charges is produced around each dye particle. Same is the case of other dye particles. These negative charges repel the other negative charges and hence dye particles tend to disperse in the solution.

Requirements of dispersing agents: i. ii. iii. iv. It should be anionic in nature. It must be compatible with dyes and other auxiliaries. It should stand at higher temperature. Low foaming. Dispersing agents are added in two cases. a. b. During disperse dye manufacturing. During disperse dye application. i.e., dyeing.

1.3.10.2. Penetrating agent:

Its function can be summarised as: It reduces the surface tension of water. Addition of 0.01% of penetrating agent reduces the surface tension of water from 72dynes/cm to 30dynes/cm [8]. 12

1.3.10.3. Anti-migrating agent:

In the dyeing process next to padding, in which a dye-impregnated textile material is dried prior to fixation, uncontrolled migration of the dye to the surface of the material during the drying operation is prevented by the incorporation of an anti-migration additive in the aqueous dye bath liquid [9].

1.3.10.4. Alkali (sodium bicarbonate):

Soda ash changes the pH of the fiber-reactive dye and cellulose fiber so that the dye reacts with the fiber, making a permanent connection that holds the dye to the fiber. It actually activates the fiber molecules so that they can chemically attack the dye.

1.3.11.
Principle:

Thermosoling:

Fibers are surrounded by a layer of very fine particles of disperse dyes and reactive dyes. Fabric is brought to very high temperature (thermosoling) i.e. 200-220oC and at this temperature absorption and diffusion take place and a rate of absorption is about thousand times greater as that of 100-120oC, due to policitizing effect of heat on PES.

Mechanism: Disperse dye is dissolved in the fiber by dry heat. The dye is deposited on the surface fiber and dissolved directly in the fiber when exposed to the higher temperature. Rate of dyeing is very much enhanced by high temperature.

Steps in thermosoling of P/V blends: Heating up of the material Transfer of disperse dye from viscose portion to polyester portion Sorption of dye in fiber and diffusion of dye in the fiber All the steps overlap to some extend 13

Transfer of disperse dye from viscose portion to polyester: During impregnation, the cellulose picks relatively more of the padding liquor because of the more hydrophilicity of viscose. About 70% of the total dye adsorbed is on the viscose portion while 30% of the dye is on the polyester. The distribution is maintained in relatively low temperature drying, so that, before high temperature treatment, the disperse dye which is intended to polyester, is mainly on viscose. This situation has to be reserved in the heat treatment to obtain the most satisfactory colour yield on the polyester component and minimum of disperse dye on viscose. A residue of disperse dye on viscose results in the inferior fastness properties unless it was thoroughly removed through reduction clearing or washing. Thus, during thermofixing , disperse dyes has to be transferred from viscose to polyester component.

Transfer of dye from viscose to polyester component is carried out through: 1. 2. 3. Vapor phase Contact phase Medium phase

1. Transfer of dye through vapor phase: It is suggested that dye volatile at the surface of viscose and polyester fibers; and because of higher substantivity of polyester for disperse dye, the dye moves via vapour phase from viscose to polyester; where it is adsorbed.

2. Contact phase: The dye is transferred where the two fibers are in contact.

3. Medium phase: This is the form of contact transfer, but here, the contact is provided by the layer of molten additives surrounding the fibers. It is suggested that dye is dissolved from viscose to form a solution in melt form which is adsorbed by the PES fiber. Again higher substantivity of PES fiber causes transfer. 14

Adsorption and diffusion of dye: 1. 2. 3. After drying of fabric, there are here ways of distribution of dye stuff. Diffusion into the fiber Continued adsorption on the fiber surface without fixation

Thermal fixation of the dye depends upon: a. b. c. Molecular size and shape Volatility Use of heat to open polymer structure and makes fibers more permeable to the dye molecules which can diffuse into the fiber d. e. f. g. h. Heating up time(depending upon thermosoling equipment) Type of fabric (construction, weight) Dye construction Thermosoling temperature Thermosoling time

Factors affecting the fixation of dye:

i.

Dye concentration: With high temperature and short fixation thermosoling time; the minimum fixation times clearly depends on the dye concentration; with long thermosoling time and low thermosoling temperature, the fixation time difference are small. The relatively long thermosoling times generally used are due to longer air circulation rate thus to the relatively long time required to heat the fabric.

ii.

Textile material: The fixation profile of P/V blended fabric shifts to right i.e. longer fixation times as compared to that of 100% polyester fabric. In the temperature region of 190-220oC, it is necessary to prolong the fixation by about 20-30second.

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iii.

Hot air or super heated steam as a fixation medium: Mostly hot air is used as a fixation medium. The fixation temperature with super heated

steam is about 10oCbelow that of hot air fixation. With hot air fixation, greater sublimation is observed over the entire fixation range.

iv.

Air circulation rate: A higher circulation rate to extremely short fixation times (30-40sec) such rates are often attained on production range such as hot-flues.

v.

Temperature: The yields of disperse dye in thermosol process is dependent largely on thermosoling temperature. The temperature should be so selected that complete diffusion and absorption of dye take place along with, that temperature should not destroy the fixation properties of reactive dyes in one bath process. If dyeing is not fully fixed, its depth increases after a second thermo fixation.

vi.

Time: Every dye requires a particular for diffusion depends upon time.

vii.

Dye: For a full range shades, thus smaller molecules of conventional disperse dye are perfectly satisfactory. The ability of disperse dye to vaporize to a small degree under thermosoling condition is important for efficient utilization on P/V blend. A satisfactory dye is that which penetrates the PES fiber, builds well on PES fiber and show efficient transfer from cotton PES, also, physical form of dye and fastness properties are important.

viii.

Sublimation fastness of dyes: Since, it is necessary to carry out thermosol fixation at higher possible temperature, the

choice of disperse dyes is restricted to those which show minimum sublimation even under extreme temperature condition there ability of disperse dyes to vaporize to a small degree under the thermosoling condition is important for different utilization on P/V fabrics, but dyes that vaporize extremely should be avoided in thermosol process. Excessive evaporation of dye in 16

thermosol chamber might cause contamination of parts of thermosoling chamber which would necessitate frequent clean up. On the other hand, insufficient vaporization of dye might result in poor utilization and readily can cause problems after P/V fabric have thermosoled. Exposure of dyed fabric to heat i.e. ironing or resin-curing operation could dye to migrate or transfer to other fabric in contact.

1.3.12.
Introduction:

Pilling:

Pilling is defined as the entangling of fibers on a fabric surface during wearing, washing, dry-cleaning or testing to form fiber balls or pills that stands on the surface of fabric and are of such density that light will not pass through them and cast a shadow. Pilling is a dynamic process comprising two phenomena: (1) fuzzing; i.e. the protruding fibers from the fabric surface, and (2) pill formation, i.e. the persistence of formed neps at the same surface. Pilling of fabrics has always been a great concern as it spoils fabric surface appearance, initiates attrition and diminishes its serviceability. The problem of pilling became even more serious with the emergence of synthetic fibers such as polyester, especially if these fibers are present in the form of blends with some other fibers of lower tensile strength. The type of fabric used in a fabric is not only the factor which governs the pilling tendency of a fabric. Pilling performance of a fabric also depends on the type of yarn used in the fabric. The fabric type also has an important bearing on its pilling performance. A knitted fabric tends to produce more pills compared with a woven fabric because of its loose structure, which allows easier fiber migration. A tighter woven fabric structure with a greater number of ends per inch and picks per inch has a lower tendency than a loosely woven fabric. The type of weave is also an important factor for determining the pilling tendency of woven fabrics. It has found that twill weave tends to pill more compared with plain weaves. Textile dry and wet processing are also known to have a great influence on the fabric pilling performance. [10]

Causes of pill formation: Pills are formed by a rubbing action on loose fibres which are present on the fabric surface. Pilling was originally a fault found mainly in knitted woolen goods made from soft 17

twisted yarns. The introduction of man-made fibres into clothing has aggravated its seriousness. The explanation for this is that these fibres are stronger than wool so that the pills remain attached to the fabric surface rather than breaking away as would be the case with wool. The initial effect of abrasion on the surface of a fabric is the formation of fuzz as the result of two processes, the brushing up of free fibre ends not enclosed within the yarn structureand the conversion of fibre loops into free fibre ends by the pulling out of one of the two ends of the loop. Gintis and Mead consider that the fuzz formation must reach a critical height, which is dependent on fibre characteristics, before pill formation can occur. The greater the breaking strength and the lower the bending stiffness of the fibres, the more likely they are to be pulled out of the fabric structure producing long protruding fibres. Fibre with low breaking strength and high bending stiffness will tend to break before being pulled fully out of the structure leading to shorter protruding fibres.The next stage is the entanglement of the loose fibres and the formation of them into a roughly spherical mass of fibres which is held to the surface by anchor fibres. As the pill undergoes further rubbing, the anchor fibres can be pulled further out of the structure or fatigued and eventually fractured depending on the fibre properties and how tightly they are held by the structure. In the case of low-strength fibres the pills will easily be detached from the fabric but with fabrics made from high-strength fibres the pills will tend to remain in place. This factor is responsible for the increase in the propensity for fabrics to pill with the introduction of synthetic fibres. Low twist factors and loose fabric structures such as knitwear have a rapid fibre pull-out rate and long staple length resulting in the development of numerous large pills. The life of these pills depends on the balance between the rate of fibre fatigue and the rate of roll-up. Pill density can increase steadily, reach a plateau or pass through a maximum and decrease with time depending on the relative rates of pill formation and pill detachment. The pill density is also governed by the number of loose fibre ends on the surface and this may set an upper limit to the number of pills that will potentially develop. This has important implications for the length of a pilling test because if the test is carried on too long the pill density may have passed its maximum. Fibres with reduced flex life will increase the rate of pill wear-off. Because the fibres that make up the pills come from the yarns in the fabric any changes which hold the fibres more firmly in the yarns will reduce the amount of pilling. The use of higher 18

twist in the yarn, reduced yarn hairiness, longer fibres, increased inter-fibre friction, increased linear density of the fibre, brushing and cropping of the fabric surface to remove loose fibre ends, a high number of threads per unit length and special chemical treatments to reduce fibre migration will reduce the tendency to pill. The presence of softeners or fibre lubricants on a fabric will increase pilling. Fabrics made from blended fibres often have a greater tendency to pill as it has been found that the finer fibres in a blend preferentially migrate towards the yarn exterior due to the difference in properties. [11]

1.3.13.

Munsell color system:

In colorimetry, the Munsell color system is a color space that specifies colors based on three color dimensions: hue, value (lightness), and chroma (color purity). It was created by Professor Albert H. Munsell in the first decade of the 20th century and adopted by the USDA as the official color system for soil research in the 1930s. Munsells system has outlasted its contemporary color models, and though it has been superseded for some uses by models such as CIELAB (L*a*b*). 1. Hue:

Each horizontal circle Munsell divided into five principal hues: Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, and Purple, along with 5 intermediate hues halfway between adjacent principal hues.[4] Each of these 10 steps is then broken into 10 sub-steps, so that 100 hues are given integer values. Two colors of equal value and chroma, on opposite sides of a hue circle, are complementary colors, and mix additively to the neutral gray of the same value. The diagram below shows 40 evenly-spaced Munsell hues, with complements vertically aligned. 2. Value:

Value, or lightness, varies vertically along the color solid, from black (value 0) at the bottom, to white (value 10) at the top.[5] Neutral grays lie along the vertical axis between black and white. Several color solids before Munsells plotted luminosity from black on the bottom to white on the top, with a gray gradient between them, but these systems neglected to keep perceptual 19

lightness constant across horizontal slices. Instead, they plotted fully-saturated yellow (light), and fully saturated blue and purple (dark) along the equator. 3. Chroma:

Chroma, measured radially from the center of each slice, represents the purity of a color, with lower chroma being less pure (more washed out, as in pastels).[6] Note that there is no intrinsic upper limit to chroma. Different areas of the color space have different maximal chroma coordinates. For instance light yellow colors have considerably more potential chroma than light purples, due to the nature of the eye and the physics of color stimuli. This led to a wide range of possible chroma levelsup to the high 30s for some huevalue combinations (though it is difficult or impossible to make physical objects in colors of such high chromas, and they cannot be reproduced on current computer displays). Vivid soil colors are in the range of approximately 8. [12] 4. Specifying a color:

A color is fully specified by listing the three numbers for hue, value, and chroma. For instance, a fairly saturated purple of medium lightness would be 5P 5/10 with 5P meaning the color in the middle of the purple hue band, 5/ meaning medium lightness, and a chroma of 10.

1.4. Specific Objectives and Scope of the Project

Blends of Viscose and polyester are widely used in the textile industry, but the traditional dyeing process is complex as a two-step procedure is required. The fabric can be dyed in a single step requiring only one rinsing step and achieving a comparable results with two-step dyeing. Polyester/viscose blended fabric of different blend ratio were dyed using one-step and two-step process and their fastness as well as pilling properties were noted. it is observed that one-step process is economical and give good results.

20

Chapter # 02
2. Experiment
2.1. Materials

2.1.1. Specification of fabric used

Fabric type

Terawera

K.T. type

Blend ratio Ends/inch Picks/inch Count of warp Count of weft GSM width

86:14 PV 94 79 60 Nec 55 Nec 72 42

80:20 PV 108 86 30 Nec 42 Nec 134 39

Table 2.1 Specification of fabric used

2.1.1. Chemicals and auxiliaries used:

Sr. No 1

Chemicals and auxiliaries Disperse dyes (Drimaren Red CL 6B and Drimaren Blue CLBR)

Reactive dyes ( Foron Red S3BS and Foron Blue SE2R) 21

3 4 5
6

Urea Migration inhibitor (Sodiun Alginate) wetting agent

Dispersing agent

7 8
9

Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) Glauber salt (Na2 SO4)

Caustic soda

Reduction inhibitor (Ludigol AR) Table 2.2 Chemicals and auxiliaries used

2.2. Machinery and equipment: 2.2.1. Application equipment:

Thermosol and steamer are used in the one-step and two-step dyeing of polyester/viscose blended fabric.

2.2.1.1. Thermosol:
Machine Model no. Serial no. Manufacturer Pad-thermosol dyeing machine MH-1 92-5-114 TSUJII DYEING MACHINE MFG. CO; LTD. Table 2.3 Thermosol

22

2.2.1.2. Steamer:
Instrument Model no. Manufacturer Table 2.4 Steamer High pressure steamer DHE 41385 Werner mathis AG

2.2.2. Testing equipment:

2.2.2.1. Rubbing fastness tester

Instrument

Crock meter

Test method no.

AATCC Test Method 8-2005

Manufacturer

Shirley development Manchester, UK Table 2.5 Rubbing fastness tester

2.2.2.2. Light fastness tester

Instrument Test method no. Type Model no Manufacturer year Xenon arc lamp tester AATCC Test Method 16-2004 XF-15N 300432 Shmadzu corporation tyoto japan May 1992 Table 2.6 Light fastness tester 23

2.2.2.3. Washing fastness tester

Instrument Test method no. Model no Serial no Manufacturer Launder- Meter AATCC Test Method 61-1996 HD-12E 92-5-199 DAIEI KAGAKV SEIKI MFG.CO.LTD Table 2.7 Washing fastness tester

2.2.2.4. Pilling tester

Instrument Martindale Tester

Test method no. Serial no Manufacturer

ASTM D3512 103-170 JAMES H. HEAL AND CO. LTD ENGLAND Table 2.8 Pilling tester

2.2.2.5. GSM cutter

Instrument Manufacturer

Sample cutter Techno MAC corp. Table 2.9 GSM cutter

24

2.2.2.6. Color strength

Instrument Manufacturer Spectrophotometer Color-Eye Gretamacbeth Table 2.10 Color strength

2.3. Methods: 2.3.1. Application method:

There are number of techniques of continuous dyeing. But according to proposed project the continuous techniques of dyeing polyester/viscose blends are mainly divided into two classes: One bath techniques Two bath techniques

There are two methods suitable for continuous dyeing of polyester/viscose rayon blends. One-bath pad-dry-thermofix method. One-bath two-step pad-thermosol-alkali pad steam method.

In the method One-bath pad dry thermofix method, disperse dyes and reactive dyes are fixed simultaneously. In the One-bath two-step pad-thermosol-alkali pad steam method step, after disperse dyes are fixed in the thermosoling step, reactive dyes are fixed.

25

Comparison of characteristic of the one-bath method and the one bath two step method are summarized as. Dyeing method One-bath pad-dry-thermofix method Items Most suitable reactive dyestuff Suitable disperse dyes Disperse dyes highly resistant to alkali should be used Pedder, hot-flue dryer, Required equipment Procedure Running speed Energy required for dye fixation Productivity Stability of padding bath Suitable for mass production No special problem occur, though dyes and alkali are present in the same bath Dyeing time Short The dyeing time is longer than that one-step method because alkali fixation is necessary Shade The shades becomes slightly duller due to fixation in the presence of alkali Table 2.11 Comparison of characteristic of the one-bath method and the one bath two step method Brighter shades are obtained because fixation occur under wet conditions Suitable for mass production Padding bath is stable without alkali thermofixing unit, open width washer Continuous Somewhat high Medium Continuous High High No limitation in the range of disperse dyes to be used Padder, hot-flue dryer, thermofixing unit, open width washer reactive dyes reactive dyes One-bath two-step pad-thermosol alkali pad-steam method

26

In contrast to the one-bath method, the two-bath method has a disadvantage that the dyeing process is lengthened, because the polyester component is first dyed with disperse dyes by the pad-thermosol method, and after the reduction cleaning the goods are dried, followed by the dyeing of cellulosic component with reactive dyes, reactive dyes by the pad-dry-alkali- padsteam method, the alkali shock method or the pad-dry thermofix method. Consequently, the two-bath method is recommended only for dyeing deep shades or for dyeing requiring highest colour fastness properties or very bright shades.

2.3.1.1.

one-bath pad-dry-thermofix method:

Figure 2.1 one-bath pad-dry-thermofix method

1. Recipe for one-bath on-stage dyeing of TERAWERA (86:14 PV) in blue color Shade 3%.
Padding bath: Disperse dyes (Drimaren Blue) Reactive dyes (Foron Blue) Urea Migration inhibitor (sodium alginate) Wetting agent Dispersing agent Sodium carbonate Padding: 20-250C, pick up65% Drying: 110-1200C, infrared/hot flue dryer Thermofixing: 220 0C, 60 sec Washing: rinsing and soaping. 27 19.84g/500ml 3.23 g/500ml 35g/500ml 0.5g/500ml 1g/500ml 0.5g/500ml 5g/500ml

2. Recipe for one-bath on-stage dyeing of K.T. type (80:20 PV) in blue color Shade 3%.
Padding bath: Disperse dyes (Drimaren Blue) Reactive dyes (Foron Blue) Urea Migration inhibitor (sodium alginate) Wetting agent Dispersing agent Sodium carbonate Padding: 20-250C, pick up 65% Drying: 110-1200C, infrared/hot flue dryer Thermofixing: 220 0C, 60 sec Washing: rinsing and soaping 18.46g/500ml 4.614g/500ml 35g/500ml 0.5g/500ml 1g/500ml 0.5g/50ml 5g/500ml

2.3.1.2.

One-bath two-step pad-thermoslo-alkali pad steam method.

Figure 2.2 One-bath two-step pad-thermoslo-alkali pad steam method

28

1. Recipe for one-bath two-step dyeing of TERAWERA (86:14 PV) in blue color Shade 3%.
Padding bath: Disperse dyes (Drimaren Blue) Reactive dyes (Foron Blue) Migration inhibitor (sodium alginate) Wetting agent Dispersing agent Padding: 20-25 C, pick up 65% Drying: 110-120 0C Thermosoling: 220 0C, 60sec Composition of alkali padding bath: Glaber salt anhydrous Caustic soda (40 Be) Reduction inhibitor (Ludigol AR) Alkali padding: 15-25 0C, pick up 70% Steaming:1000C, 30sec for dyes Washing: cold rinsing rinsing acid neutralization hot rinsing soaping at boil hot 250g/l 15ml/l 10g/l
0

18.46 g/500ml 4.62g/500ml 0.5g/500ml 1g/500ml 0.5g/500ml

cold rinsing

2. Recipe for one-bath two-step dyeing of K.T. type (80:20 PV) in blue color Shade 3%.
Padding bath: Disperse dyes (Drimaren Blue) Reactive dyes (Foron Blue) Migration inhibitor (sodium alginate) Wetting agent Dispersing agent Padding: 20-25 0C, pick up 65% 29 19.84 g/500ml 3.23g/500ml 0.5g/500ml 1g/500ml 0.5g/500ml

Drying: 110-120 0C Thermosoling: 220 0C, 60sec Composition of alkali padding bath: Glaber salt anhydrous Caustic soda (40 Be) Reduction inhibitor (Ludigol AR) Alkali padding: 15-25 0C, pick up 70% Steaming:1000C, 30sec for dyes Washing: cold rinsing rinsing acid neutralization hot rinsing soaping at boil hot 250g/l 15ml/l 10g/l

cold rinsing [13].

Similar procedure was adopted for dyeing of TERAWERA AND K.T. TYPE fabric in red color.

2.3.2. Testing methods:

Detailed explanation of the tests which were carried out for the evaluation of samples is given below.

2.3.2.1. AATCC-8

Crock fastness test:

A transfer of colorant from the surface of a coloured yarn or fabric to another surface or to an adjacent area of the same fabric principally by rubbing.

Colour fastness: The resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer of its colorant to adjacent materials, or both, as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that might be encountered during the processing, testing, storage or use of the material.

30

Purpose: This test method is designed to determine the amount of color transferred from the surface of colored textile materials to other surfaces by rubbing.

Principle: A colored test specimen is rubbed with white crock test cloth under controlled conditions. Color transferred to the white test cloth is assessed by a comparison with the Gray Scale for Staining or the Chromatic Transference Scale and a grade is assigned. Figure 2.3 Crockmeter

Apparatus and material: 1. AATCC crock meter 2. Crock meter test cloth cut in 5 cm (2in) square 3. Gray scale for staining 4. White AATCC textile blotting paper 5. Specimen holder for crock meter

Standard operating procedure:

Dry crocking test: i. ii. The test specimen of the dimension 2x2inch was cut for testing. The test specimen was placed on the base of the crock meter resulting flat on the abrasive cloth with its long dimension in the direction of rubbing. iii. The white cloth was mounted onto the end of the fingers which projects downward from the weighted sliding arm, so that its weave was parallel to the direction of rubbing. iv. v. vi. The covered finger was lowered onto the test specimen. The tester was run for 10 complete turns. The white test cloth was removed and evaluated.

Wet crocking test: i. The white test specimen is thoroughly wet out using distilled water. 31

ii.

The wet pick up is brought up to 65% approx by squeezing the wet testing square between bloating paper.

iii. iv. v.

The moisture content is maintained avoiding evaporation. The test specimen of the dimension 2x2inch was cut for testing. The test cloth was placed on the base of crocking meter resulting flat on the abrasive cloth with its long dimension along the direction of rubbing.

vi.

The white wet test is mounted onto the end of the finger which projects downward from the weighted sliding arm, so that its weave is parallel to the direction of rubbing.

vii. viii. ix. x.

The covered finger is lowered onto the test specimen. The tester is then run for 10 turns. The white wet test is removed, dried in air and evaluated. The amount of color transfer from the specimen to the white test cloth under examination is evaluated by means of gray scale.

xi.

The test square is backed with 3 layers of white test cloth while evaluating. [14]

2.3.2.2. Light fastness test:

AATCC Test Method 16-2004

Purpose and scope: This test method provides the general principles and procedures which are currently in use for determining the colorfastness to light of textile materials.

Principle: Samples of the textile material to be tested and the agreed upon comparison standard(s) are exposed simultaneously to a light source under specified conditions. The colorfastness to light of the specimen is evaluated by comparison of the color change of the exposed portion to the masked control portion of the test specimen or unexposed original material using the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change, or by instrumental color measurement. Figure 2.4 Light Fastness Tester

32

Apparatus and material: i. ii. AATCC grey scale for color change Test masks made of material approaching zero light transmittance, and suitable for multiple exposure levels. iii. Mercury lamp fading apparatus.

Standard operating procedure: i. ii. iii. iv. Samples were cut according to the size of test mask and then they were fixed in it. The equipped masks were placed in the fad-o-meter for 24 hours. Afterwards the samples were removed from the masks and conditioned for evaluation. The exposed portion was compared to the masked covered or to an unexposed original portion of the sample. v. Then the color change was quantified using AATCC grey scale for color change.

2.3.2.3. Washing fastness test:

ISO 105-C03

Purpose: The purpose of this test is to determine the amount of color which is faded after washing and staining on the multi fabric strip.

Principle: A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is mechanically agitated under specified conditions of time and temperature in a soap, or soap and soda solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric, or fabrics, are assessed with reference to the original fabric, either with the grey scales. Figure 2.5 HT Dyeing Machine

33

Apparatus and material: i. ii. iii. iv. v. Laundrometer Multi fiber strip Liquor ratio 1:50 5g/l detergent 2g/l anhydrous sodium carbonate

Standard operating procedure: i. Specimen 10 cm 4 cm dyed fabric was taken and half is sandwiched between multi fiber strips sewn on to the dyed fabric sample along all four sides. ii. iii. The soap solution according to the test used was made. This tester consists of a thermostatically controlled, electrically heated water bath made of stainless steel. iv. The composite specimen was placed in the container together with the specified number of steel balls. v. vi. The necessary amount of soap solution was added preheated to the test temperature 60 C 2 C. The container was closed and the machine is operated at the 60 C temperature and for 30minute. Time was noted as soon as the container is closed. vii. For all tests, remove the composite specimen at the end of the wash and gently agitate, rinse for 1min and then the beaker was placed under a cold running tap for 1 min. viii. For all methods, extract the excess water from the composite specimen by squeezing the test specimen by hand. ix. The composite specimen was Open out by cutting the stitching except on one of the shorter sides if necessary. x. The specimen was dried by pressing it flat between new filter papers to remove excess water. Then dried by hanging it in the air at a temperature not exceeding 60 C, with the parts in contact only at the line of stitching. xi. The change in color of the specimen was assessed and the staining of the adjacent multi fabrics strip with reference to the original specimen using the grey scale in color matching box. [15]

34

2.3.2.4. Pilling test:

ASTM D3512

Scope: This test method covers the determination of the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on textile fabrics using the Martindale tester. The procedure generally is applicable to all types of fabrics, being particularly suitable for woven fabrics. Principle: It consists of four testing plates on which the abrading fabrics is attached, these four testing table are mounted on the base plate of the instrument. There is revolving plate, which revolves with the help of three cranks, pegs & motor. There are four sleeves attached on the revolving plate. The sample holders for abrasion & pilling testing are provided with the instrument. There is a set of weights for proper pressure on the test specimens. Templates for cutting the samples & Figure 2.6 Martindale tester

abrading cloth and their mallet are also supplied as standard accessory. [16] Apparatus and material: i. ii. Martindale tester Test specimens according to template

Standard operating procedure: Preparation of sample: i. ii. iii. Sample was select randomly from fabric specimen. Circular specimens of 38mm diameter were made with the help of template. Circular abraded of same fabric of 160mm diameter were made with the help of template. iv. Sample and abraded were cut with the help of pair of scissor. 35

v.

Specimen and abraded were left flat, singly, pile surface uppermost for moisture equilibrium in standard atmospheric condition.

vi. vii. viii.

Then the sample and abraded were fixed in the Martindale tester at the specified places. Tester was started according to fixed no. of revolution. Then the samples were taken out and evaluation is mad.

2.3.2.5. Spectrophotometer:
Scope: A spectrophotometer is employed to measure the amount of light that a sample absorbs.

Principle: A spectrophotometer, one of the most useful physics lab equipments is the combination of two devices, a spectrometer and a photometer. Spectrometer is used for producing light of any selected wavelength or color while a photometer is used for measuring the intensity of light. The two devices are placed at either side of a cuvette filled with a liquid. Spectrometer produces the light of desired wavelength and it passes through the tube and reaches photometer that measures its intensity. Then the photometer produces a voltage signal to a display device, usually a galvanometer. As the amount of light absorbed by the liquid changes the signal also changes. The concentration of a substance in solution can be measured by calculating the amount of absorption of light at the appropriate wavelength or a particular color. [17] Figure 2.7 Spectrophotomet er

Procedure: i. Firstly the sample which was dyed by using one-bath two-stage method placed in the spectrophotometer disc and the L, a, b, c, h, cvsum, %strength sum was measured.

36

ii.

Then the sample which was dyed by using one-bath two-stage method placed in the spectrophotometer disc and the L, a, b, c, h, cvsum, %strength sum were measured.

iii.

This procedure was repeated for all the samples.

37

Chapter # 03
3. Results and discussion:
3.1. Color fastness:
Crock fatness test Route Fabric type Shade 3% Gray scale grading Dry One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage Terawera Terawera K.T. type K.T. type Terawera Terawera K.T. type K.T. type Blue Blue Blue Blue Red Red Red Red 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4 4 Wet 3 3 3 3-4 3 3-4 3 2

Table 3.1 crocking results

Discussion: It is concluded that dry rubbing fastness of polyester viscose fabric is slightly good when it is dyed through one-bath two-step process than one-bath one-step process. While there is no appreciable difference in wet rubbing fastness either is dyed through one-bath one-step or one-bath two-step process. Blend ratio and yarn count also effects the crocking fastness i.e. K.T. type fabric has same crocking fastness either it is dyed through one-step or two-step but TERAWERA has good rubbing fastness value when it is dyed through two-step than one-step.

38

4-5

3-4

2-3

1-2

Figure 3.1 Grey scale for color change

3.2. Washing fastness test:

Washing fastness test Route Fabric type Shade 3% Gray scale grading Change Acetate Cotton nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool in shade One-bath Terawera one-stage One-bath Terawera two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage K.T. type K.T. type Red 4 3-4 4 2-3 3-4 4 2-3 blue 4-5 4 4-5 2-3 3-4 4-5 3-4 Blue 4 4 4-5 3 3-4 4-5 3-4 Blue 4-5 3-4 4 3 3-4 4 3 Blue 4 4 4 3 3-4 4-5 3-4

One-bath Terawera one-stage One-bath Terawera two-stage

Red

3-4

3-4

4-5

4-5

3-4

39

One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage

K.T. type K.T. type

Red

3-4

2-3

3-4

Red

3-4

3-4

4-5

4-5

3-4

Table 3.2 Washing fastness results Discussion: Similar sequence is observed in washing fastness test one-bath one- step process has poor washing fastness than one-bath two-step process. Blend ratio dont effect washing fastness and staining while blue shade give good washing fastness as compared to red shade.

Figure 3.2 Grey scale for staining

40

3.3. Light fastness test:

Light fastness test Route Fabric type Shade 3% Gray scale grading

One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage

Terawera Terawera K.T. type K.T. type Terawera Terawera K.T. type K.T. type

Blue Blue Blue Blue Red Red Red Red

4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Table 3.3 Light fastness results Discussion: From light fastness test it is concluded that there is no difference in grading either it is dyed through one-step or two-step. So one-step dyeing is better in this concern because it is economical and time saving. Light fastness properties are also independent on blend ratio.

41

3.4. Pilling test:

Original sample (undyed) Fabric quality Grading Terawera (87:13 PV) K.T. type (72:28 PV) 01 03 Pilling grades Value Very severe Moderate

Evaluation of pilling after dyeing with different routes: Pilling test evaluation Route Fabric type Shade3% Pilling grades Grading One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage One-bath one-stage One-bath two-stage Terawera Terawera K.T. type K.T. type Terawera Terawera K.T. type K.T. type Blue Blue Blue blue Red Red Red Red 02 02 04 04 02 02 04 04 Value Severe Severe Slight Slight Sever Severe Slight Slight

Table 3.4 Pilling test evaluation

Discussion: Martindale test results indicate that original samples have more pilling values than that of samples after dyeing it is because of during wet processing the fuzz or protruding fibres get removed from the fabric surface. It is also noticed that K.T. type fabric has less pilling as compared to terawera. This less pilling is due to following reasons:

42

Finer yarn count and more number of ends per inch and number of picks per inch in K.T. type while terawera has less number of ends per inch and less number of picks per inch as well as open weave structure. Pilling is greatly influenced by blend ratio if the fabric has more portions of high tenacity fibres (polyester) then it causes more pilling but if it has more portions of low tenacity fibres (viscose) then it causes less pilling. Now in Terawera polyester is 87% while viscose is only 13% so more pilling occur while in K.T. type fabric polyester is 72% while viscose is 28% so it cause less pilling.

3.5. Spectrophotometer:
Values from spectrophotometer Route Fabric type Shade 3% L a b c h cv sum Onebath twostage Onebath onestage Onebath twostage Onebath one43 K.T. type blue 3.80Y 4.23D 1.38G 7.846 99.92 K.T. type Blue 27.38 8.84 33.89 35.02 284.63 7.853 100.00 Terawera Blue 1.38L 2.34G 1.84Y 2.41D 1.76G 7.823 89.22 Terawera Blue 25.59 10.26 35.92 34.51 287.30 8.769 %strength sum 100

0.35D 2.33G

stage

Onebath twostage Onebath onestage Onebath twostage Onebath onestage

Terawera

Red

39.06

52.55

5.10

52.80

5.55

5.268

100.00

Terawera

Red

0.87Y

1.60D

1.04Y

5.820

110.48

1.52D 1.70G

K.T. type

Red

36.53

53.92

10.68

54.96

11.21

7.272

100.00

K.T. type

Red

1.54L

-3.42B 5.769

79.34

1.59G 3.73B 2.18B

Table 3.5 Values from spectrophotometer Discussion: Spectrophotometer is used to check the % strength sum of shades of specimens which were dyed through one-step and two-step process. From results of spectrophotometer it is concluded that one-bath two-step has 100% shade strength while one-bath one-step process has less %strength shade. It is because of reactive dye fixation in a separate bath which gives good results. While in one-bath one-step process disperse dye and reactive dye was fixed in a single bath and reactive dye was not fixed completely as a result poor shade strength was observed.

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Chapter # 04
4. Summary and future work:
4.1. Key findings of project:
Blends of viscose and polyester are widely used in textile industry, but the traditional dyeing process is complex as a two-step procedure is required. Polyester viscose blended fabric can be dyed in single step which require only one rinsing step and give comparable results with two-step process.

Thus, dyeing time is reduced by 60-65% giving the dye house manager the opportunity to double or triple productivity. An additional benefit is the reduced composition of energy and (waste) water.

Suitable dyeing procedure and dye selection is important to achieve the required properties. Instead of these two parameters blend ratio, yarn count, no. Of ends per inch and picks per inch are also important factors.

4.2. Suggestions for future work:

Fabric can be dyed in many routes but every manager demands that process which is cost effective and time saving with maximum productivity and reproducibility. Manager also demands to fulfil the customers satisfactions therefore it is necessary for a manager to find out the best route of dyeing.

To find out this route many researches were made by considering the all parameters i.e. energy conservation, time, fastness properties and other dyeing related properties.

I suggested that one-step dyeing is most suitable process of dyeing in light shades but in dark shades there is still a problem of shade depth and to some extent fastness properties.

To overcome these problems we should use such dyes which are not alkali sensitive or such a dye which can dye polyester and viscose portions simultaneously. 45

Chapter # 05
Bibliography
[1] J. Richard Aspland, "textile dyeing and colouration," AATCC. [2] Texcilia, Cellulosic Fiber. [3] http://www.swicofil.com/viscose.html. [4] Oakdene Hollins Ltd. (2009) www.uniformreuse.co.uk. [Online]. http://www.uniformreuse.co.uk/fabric-database.html [5] www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Polyester.html. [6] Tanveer Hussain, dyeing and finishing of polyester/viscose blend using disperse and direct dyes, 1992-1996. [7] W.D. warring, dye stuff chemistry. [8] muhammad Arif, Dyeing of polyester/viscose and polyester/acrylic blends using disperse reactive and disperde basic combination. [9] Sthave. (1976, february) http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4337062.html. [10] tanveer hussain, "effect of different softener and sanforising treament on pilling performanece of polyester/viscose blended fabric," coloration technology, july 2008. [11] abu bakkar marwat. scribd.com. [Online]. http://www.scribd.com/doc/21279659/PillingTextile-Testing-By-Abubakkar-Marwat [12] (31 January 2011) wikipedia.com. [Online]. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munsell_color_system [13] sumitomo chemical ltd., technical information. [14] AATCC TECHNICAL MANUAL, "Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method," AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS, AATCC Test Method 82005, 2007. [15] "Colorfastness to washing ISO-105-C03," international standard for organization, ISO-105C03,. [16] monhail nagindas kapadia. (1957) textiletestingequipment.com. [Online]. https://www.textiletestingequipment.com/instrument-13/Fabric-Garment-TestingInstruments/martindale-abrasion-cum-pilling-tester.aspx [17] (2011) ezine articles.com. [Online]. http://ezinearticles.com/?Spectrophotometry-and-ItsWorking-Principle&id=1697937

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