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Seam The basic structural element of a garment or household textile item.

It is the means by which two pieces of fabric are joined together. Typical examples: plain, French, flat-fell. Seam finish Applied to/used on the unfinished seam edge to prevent raveling, curling, or rolling. Typical examples: turned and stitched, double-stitched, bound, serger. Pinked Seams A pinked seam means the seam allowances are trimmed with pinking shears

Plain Seam
A plain seam is the simplest seam to make and is the basis for many other seams. Two plys of fabric is simply joined together using a stitch.

French Seam
The French seam is basically a seam within a seam. It is strong and durable but should be used only on straight edges. This seam is used on lightweight woven, sheer, and other delicate fabrics. It is an excellent choice for see-through fabrics.

Flat-Fell (also called flat-felled)


This seam is designed for woven fabrics and straight edges. It is used when constructing sportswear, mens and childrens wear, reversible items, and heavy-duty items requiring strong, durable seams.

Lapped
The lapped seam resembles a top-stitched plain seam from the right side. This seam may be referred to as a tucked or decorative lapped seam. There are two ways to construct a lapped seam. One method is used when stitching a seam is difficult or impossible, as in a V-pointed yoke area. The second method is used to eliminate bulk; for example, when joining interfacing pieces or nonwoven fabrics, such as suede, felt, and Ultrasuede

Mock Flat-Fell (also called double-stitched or welt seam)


The mock flat-fell seam provides the same tailored appearance as the flat-fell but is easier to construct. It is best used on fabrics that do not ravel or on items that will be lined or will not have exposed seams or edges.

Edge Stitched
As a seam finish, this technique is reserved primarily for knit fabrics. It is used to prevent the edges of the fabric from rolling or curling.

Double-Stitched
The double-stitched finish also begins with a plain seam. It is used for knit fabrics and on seam allowances that are pressed together to one side and treated as one. When used on lightweight knit fabrics, it is to prevent seam allowances from rolling or curling.

Bound
There are several forms of bound seam finishes. They are all appropriate for medium, medium-heavy, and heavyweight woven fabrics. A bound finish is used frequently on unlined coats and jackets. It can also be used on dresses and other items that have a tendency to ravel. It is often used on hem edges and facings.

Dart Darts are construction details that shape fabric to the curves of the body. Darts can be straight (for an easy fit) or curved (for a closer-to-the-body fit). Darts are typically found in the bust, waist and hip areas, where the body is the most contoured. A dart is used to shape a flat piece of fabric to fit bust, waist, hip or elbow curves. There are two types of darts. A single-pointed dart is wide at one end and pointed at the other. A shaped dart has points at both ends. It is usually used at the waistline, with the points extending to the bust and hips Tuck A tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn in place. Gathering Gathering is a sewing technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece Pleat A pleat (older plait) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference. Pleats sewn into place are called tucks Placket A placket is an opening in the upper part of trousers or skirts, or at the neck or sleeve of a garment Pocket A pocket is a bag- or envelope-like receptacle either fastened to or inserted in an article of clothing to hold small items Collar A collar is the part of a shirt, dress, coat or blouse that fastens around or frames the neck Cuff A cuff is an extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment covering the arms Hem Hem a piece of cloth is to sew a cut edge in such a way as to prevent unraveling of the fabric

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