Home & Guest House Grey sold Kawau in 1888.

Soon after the new owners, James and Eliza Thompson, added the verandah to the house. There were several changes of ownership around the turn of the century, and it was during this time that the residence was opened to the public as a guest house under the name Mansion House. Andrew Farmer bought the island in 1904 and began subdivision. He had plans drawn up for a sizable township on Boyds Hill, and in 1909 he built a 30-room guesthouse on the foreshore of Mansion House Bay. The township never eventuated and the boarding house burned down 4-5 years after construction. Holiday Resort The Reeves family ran the property as a holiday resort from 1923 until 1945. They added a bowling green, tennis courts, a golf course, electricity generators and a telephone service, but the resort was only marginally profitable. During this period Mansion House was a lively place, attracting thousands of visitors who arrived in yachts, steamers and sometimes even on warships. During the depression and war years Kawau Islanders supplemented their income by sending wood, fruit and vegetables to Auckland. Other small businesses included harvesting Arum lilies for Auckland florists, selling wallaby and possum pelts, and ship-building. Following World War II there were repeated efforts to make Mansion House into a viable resort destination. The brochures of that time tempted prospective visitors with poetic language and promise of a paradise rediscovered. Hotel Bar facilities, modern motel style flats, a swimming pool and additional hotel Above: three postcards of accommodation were added in a renewed attempt to attract people. Buildings Kawau Island that had survived from the mine village and from Greys era were progressively demolished. Despite the islands popularity with boaties, staffing and economic difficulties persisted and the last proprietors, Dominion Breweries, quit their lease in 1976. Sir George Grey had spent a fortune on developing his mansion and grounds. Maintaining the legacy left by him has been a burden for subsequent owners. Historic Place Over the years Mansion House has been extensively altered. In 1977, work began to return the house to its appearance around 1890. Extraneous buildings from the hotel era were removed from the grounds and then work on the house started. The original mine managers wing, the oldest part of the house, required extensive reconstruction. Personal items from Sir Georges collections in the Auckland Institute and Museum, Auckland City Art Gallery and Auckland Public Library have been returned to his home on loan. A plea to the public for period furniture and chattels for the house resulted in a great response, supplementing items already loaned or purchased. Mansion House re-opened as a historic place in October 1979. Achieving an authentic restoration and locating appropriate furnishings is an on-going challenge.

Te Kawau-Tu-Maro The Motionless Shag According to Maori legend, Kawau Island was discovered by the Maori ancestor Toi-te-huatahi during his epic explorations of the Pacific. Toi-tehuatahi named Kawau after the shag (right) a bird often seen on the islands shores. The shag has great significance in Maori legend and tradition, as a symbol of courage and chieftainship. The fishing grounds, warm climate and strategic site within the Hauraki Gulf were attractive features and as a result there were many kainga (villages) on the island. You can still see remains of these settlements on the costal headlands. There are flat terraces, levelled for whare (houses) and steep ditches and banks, which would have been lined with palisades of heavy stakes, to protect against enemies. There are also sunken pits for storing kumara; midden (food refuse), and some taro plants. The waters around Kawau were especially valued for muru or small spotted shark. Muru could be sun-dried and preserved for consumption year round. It was therefore highly prized by the people of this region. Competition for this resource resulted in intertribal fighting. The Kawerau iwi (tribe) who had earlier replaced Ngati Tai as occupants of the area came under attack from tribes from the Hauraki Gulf and later by northern Ngapuhi. By 1825 the island was no longer permanently inhabited, however Kawerau hapu (sub-tribes) maintained their association with the island, later trading with the early European settlers. Exploration and Exploitation European interest in Kawau began in the early 1840s when a Scottish investment company purchased the island for farming purposes. In 1843, cattle, sheep, farm implements and stores were shipped to the island and the clearing of the land began. Exploration of the island led to a find of manganese near North Cover and so began the extraction of Kawaus valuable load of minerals. The following year, 1844, staining on the cliffs led to the discovery of copper near South Cover. The Kawau Mining Company was subsequently formed as a subsidiary of the company which owned the island. Skilled copper miners were needed and were encouraged to migrate from the coppermining areas of Cornwall. Several shafts were sunk. Horizontal tunnels were then driven to link these shafts. The copper ore was bought to the surface using whims horse powered winding devices. The ore was then broken by hand and sorted, before being loaded onto ships for transport by sea. As much of the copper ore was below sea level it became necessary to use a steampowered pump to dewater the mine. A stone building was built to house the pump engine. Last century manganese was an important ingredient in many manufacturing processes including glass, paint and alter steel production. Copper was used for making brass, a metal widely used for fittings on buildings. It was also used extensively in the ship building industry, for nails and sheathing. Records show at least 3000 tonnes of ore were taken from Kawau, worth about 60,000 at that time. The Kawau mines were some of the earliest European mine workings in the country.

Grey An Enigma Governor Grey was the most powerful and controversial political figure in 19th century New Zealand. He was an enigma a man of contradictions. As a soldier and explorer he was a man of action but he was also a man of contemplation. A scholar and philosopher. Although at times autocratic he tried to apply principles of justice and equality. As Governor, his highly personal style often offended Maori, pakeha, and the Colonial Office but his administrative talent was never in doubt. He was a man both elevated yet isolated by the historical task of reconciling Maori and pakeha interests. The Making of a Mansion Grey bought Kawau in 1862 as a place to escape the pressures of politics, to relax, entertain, study and indulge his passion for collecting. Artefacts from European, Africa and the Orient were displayed alongside taonga (treasures) gifted to him by local Maori. His extensive book collection (some 8000 volumes) was later gifted to the people of Auckland. Grey was himself an author of note he researched Maori traditions and published work including the classic text Myths and Legends of Maori. Grey was also an enthusiastic amateur botanist and natural historian. His interest and motive in importing plants and animals from all over the world was entrepreneurial to develop products of economic value to his adopted country, Kawau, temperate and isolated by the sea, was an ideal laboratory for these trials in acclimatisation. To accommodate his collections and to add to his comfort Grey enlarged the mine managers house from a modest 10 room home to the Mansion we see today. The extended house and elaborate gardens required a large staff up to nine gardeners, kitchen staff, a house keeper, a nanny, governess, handyman, shepherd, dairyman, and farm manager. They lived in the house itself, in the old miners cottages in Mansion House Valley, and in new accommodation provided around Bon Accord Harbour. Living with Sir George Grey had separated from his wife Eliza soon after their marriage. He shared his Kawau home and company with his niece Annie Matthews. Annie later married Greys farm manager Seymour Thorne George. Annie, Seymour, and their eight children, occupied much of the upper floor of the house. Sir George was an excellent host. He opened his gardens and grounds to local visitors, who travelled by steamship on day trips. As Grey himself said: They did no harm, perhaps learnt a little and at any rate enjoyed themselves. He also welcomed visiting dignitaries to his retreat. These guests were offered outdoor pursuits such as hunting, fishing and boating as well as stimulating philosophical and political debates. The Lifestyle Grey worked hard at developing his estate. He established farms, vegetable gardens, orchards and a dairy, making the island largely self sufficient in fresh produce. At this time there was no electricity hence the chandeliers, candlesticks and lanterns you see in the house. Fires were the only form of heating. Most rooms in his house have open fire places. Transport on the island in those days was the same as today shanks pony (walking) or boat, although Grey himself sometimes used a horse and carriage to survey his estate. Grey took some social responsibility for his staff who generally repaid him with loyalty. Grey provided an education for his employees children, funding both the schoolhouse and the school master Mr Peter McDonald. The schoolhouse still stands, extensively modified, on private land in Schoolhouse Bay. When in residence Grey himself conducted daily prayers in his drawing room and organised a visiting clergyman to lead the weekly service there.

Wild things Peacocks from India paraded on the lawns, kookaburras laughed in the tree top s and kangaroos and wallabies hopped around the grounds. Cassonwaries, Chinese pheasants, guinea fowls, cape geese, wild ducks, swans, quail and turkey were introduced, some as game, others as natural curiousities. Antelopes, emus, monkeys and zebra were also brought to Kawau. Most of the exotic species introduced were from South Africa, Australia, and England places where Grey had lived. Species unsuited to Kawaus climate or food supplies, struggled to adapt. Zebras that had once pulled Greys coach are believed to have suffered from the cold. The monkeys did well but proved so pesky that they had to be destroyed. Fallow deer survived for some time but are no longer to be seen. A few kookabura, parakeets, peacocks and rosellas remain. Only the wallaby and possum thrived, and in doing so they have changed the look of the land eating away at most regenerating native trees, leaving the unpalatable pines to dominate. Wallabies Of the five species of wallaby introduced by Grey, four remain on the island: the parma, darma, rock and black striped wallabies. When the parma wallaby came near to extinction in its native Australia, parmas from Kawau were sent back to their homeland and to overseas zoos. A marsupial zoo operated on Kawau during the 1970s as a tourist attraction and as a base for breeding and export of wallabies and possums. A wallaby fence across conservation land allows some control over the population of wallabies within the reserve. The best time and place to see wallabies is at dusk in open grassy areas where they graze. Weka Weka are plump, rusty brown birds with a jerky gait and raucous call. North Island Weka are now rarely seen on the mainland so the Kawau population is very important. Weka were once popular food for both Maori and early European settlers. They are omnivorous they eat almost everything insects, fruit, rats and mice, and the eggs and chicks of other ground nesting birds. Their preferred habitat is scrubland and forest verges. They run fast and swim well but because they are flightless, and inquisitive, they are vulnerable to any cats and dogs bought ashore by boat and bach owners. Kiwi Kiwi of the North Island Brown variety still live on Kawau but since they are nocturnal they are seldom seen, only heard. Kiwi are named after the cry of the male bird a shrill kee-wi. Females utter a much lower toned harsh screech. Kiwi are distinctive for their: unusual plumage loose bristly feathers, facial whiskers and their slender, nostril tipped bills. Although they have poor eyesight they compensate using their highly developed sense of smell for locating food and sensing danger (eg. dogs). As protection the kiwi has powerful legs, toes and claws. Favourite food for kiwi are worms, grubs, fruit and berries. Surveys to establish kiwi numbers on Kawau are carried out with the help of local residents on an on-going basis. Other Natives Bush birds are limited on much of Kawau because our native birds prefer native bush to pine forests. However Kawau hosts the keruru (wood pigeon), morepork, tui, fantail, silver eye, and grey warbler. Kaka are

occasional visitors. Sea birds of the area include the shag after which the island is named, the white fronted and Caspian terns, black backed and red billed gulls, white faced and grey reef herons, gannets and the oyster catcher.

Sampling the world! What does the Ambina pitch tree of Borneo have in common with spider lilies from Fiji and tussock grass from the Falkland islands? They were among the hundreds of exotic plants Grey introduced to his garden at Kawau. Grey collected plants from around the world, exchanging them with an international network of collectors. He also gifted plants to parks, gardens, and growers throughout New Zealand. Records show seeds from Kawau were sent to old Government House, Albert Park, Western Springs, Motutapu and Raoul Island. Seaweed, and fern collections carefully dried, pressed, and labelled in Greys handwriting survive him. Grey was dedicated to finding species that were economically useful. He chose species that would provide food, or timber, or could be processed to extract industrial or medicinal substances. Some, like the radiate pine, have since become the basis of major industries others, like the olive, the cork tree and the fibre plants are seldom scene. Fragrance and flamboyance Greys gardens were designed thoughtfully and with passion. The traditional Norfolk pines, Moreton Bay figs and Macrocarpa trees greeted visitors to the Bay and provided shelter and shade. Although there were few flower beds there were many shrubs with flamboyant foliage or scent. A visitor to Greys garden writes eloquently of her impression: Peaches, apricots, figs, pomegranates, guavas, loquats. cherries and mulberries tempted into Mansion House shrubberies the shy wood pigeon and the silver voiced tui: passionfruit rioted over the fences, and in leafy arbours grapevines trailed great bunches of purple fruit. The air was sweet with the scent of orange and citron, flourishing in groves near the house. (Tracy 1927:21) To the rear of the house, close to the kitchen, there were large vegetable gardens and an orchard to provide the household with fresh produce and preserves. Restoration Restoration began with research. Greys diary and factual records provided details on what was planted and where. Photos, paintings and descriptions by visitors also gave clues for recreating the gardens sand grounds. Archaeologists have located original garden features and an inventory of species that have survived from Greys original plantings has been completed. Now the search is on for suitable replacement plants for those missing. The most significant specimen trees remaining in the valley are the: Chilean Wine Palms, Cabbage and Guadalupe Palms, BunyaBunyas, Moreton Bay and Rusty Figs, Norfolk and Hoop Pines, the Coral tree, Camphor tree and Holm Oaks. See the Tree Trail. Then and Now Originally, magnificent conifers like the kauri, kahikatea and miro would have formed the canopy inland with broadleaf species like puriri, taraire and karaka beneath. Along the coastal fringes more hardy species thrived pohutukawa, karo, taupata and kawakawa. This varied and luxuriant vegetation was first disturbed by Maori who settled on the island. European settles later cleared land for farming and mining operations. Then, Greys exotic plants and animals radically and irrevocably changed the vegetation on some parts of the island. Outside Mansion House Valley now, the reserve is covered in pines and kanuka with pohutukawa prominent along the coastline. The pines have spread naturally from shelter belts, plantations and ornamental plantings originally established during Greys time. Ferns growing beneath the pines are a reminder of the native vegetation before the introduction of wallabies and possums.

Mining Life The discovery of copper and development of the mine created a boom in the islands population. The miners were usually joined by their families, so numbers quickly swelled. By 1849 around 300 people lived on the island. The more significant settlements were in this valley; at Dispute Cover, Sunny Bay, at Smelting House Bay and at Miners Bay. Miners Bay residents were long suffering. They had to contend with two large steam engines driving pumps night and day, seven days a week, in the neighbouring bay. Those living in Smelting House bore the sulphurous fumes of the ore bonfires, which killed all plant life in the surrounding area. Most of the miners lived within easy walking distance of the mine. The Miners Track to the coppermine follows their original route to work for much of its length. A school was opened for the miners children, and a chapel established to meet the residents spiritual needs. Most of the miners were Wesleyan Methodists. A Total Abstinence Society was established by those islanders who wanted to prohibit, or at least limit, alcohol consumption. The Society appears from the records to have only been mildly successful. Home sickness was a problem for new settlers as the letter from Emma Evans shows. Disease, injury, and accidents were not uncommon and although there was a Company surgeon, (an old term for doctor) there was often little to be done for patients. Some miners, and their families were buried in the cemetery on Boyds Hill. The Dispute The Kawau Companys mine was well underway when a competitor arrived on the scene. Frederick Whitaker, had by devious means acquired rights to the area offshore, i.e. below high water mark, but adjacent to the Kawau Companys operation. Because of the reclamation work done by the Kawau Company the natural boundary of the high water mark was never clear. Whitaker in partnership with Theophilus Heale took over some reclaimed land, sank a shaft and proceeded to work inland. The Kawau Company protested but Whitaker continued encroaching inland. A protracted legal battle over rights to the ore began. The result (1850) left the Kawau Company crippled, from the legal costs, and the cost of buying out the rival company. In the meantime seawater flooded the workings. Spontaneous Combustion Another disaster caused further frustration and expense for the Kawau Company. The high sulphur content of the ore apparently caused spontaneous combustion in the holds of ships carrying the ore to overseas markets. The on-going risk of fire aboard the wooden sailing ships was too great and so a smelting works was built. The ruins of the Smelting House, which still stands in the Smelting House Bay in Bon Accord Harbour, date from 1848-49. Smelters from Swansea (Wales) were sent to Kawau to provide the expertise to build and operate the works. When first removed from the mine, the ore looked like the sample shown here. At the smelting works the ore was purified, and melted into a more manageable and safer, concentrate, called regulus. The slag, the waste product of this process, was cast into blocks which were useful in construction. The piers of the Mansion House Bay wharf are made from slag from the smelting works. The Bitter End The mining operations came to an end in 1851. Better wages and prospects lured miners away to the goldfields. The supply of quality ore was running out, the shafts were flooded and the resources of the company had dwindled. Since then, there have been attempts to re-open the mines, in 1845-55 and 1898-1900. Both ventures proved unproductive. It is believed that there is little ore of any worth remaining and that it would prove uneconomic to extract. Remnants and Ruins If you walk to the Coppermine you will see ruins and remnants of the mining era. The stone structure with a brick chimney you see today is the remains of the engine house built from sandstone during the 1854-55 attempt to re-open the mines.

Because it is a significant historic site, preservation has been a priority. Stabilisation took place in 1982-84 during which time bricks and stonework were repaired, and timber supports added. The Smelting House in Bon Accord Harbour is one of New Zealands oldest industrial ruins and much conservation work has been devoted to it. The entrances of the Kawau Company mines are easily found, and are made even more obvious by the blue green stains characteristic of copper mineral deposits. Do not attempt to enter any shafts they are extremely dangerous. The shaft you see now covered with a concrete top, immediately below the engine house is Whitakers. Living in Style The key role in the mining operation was the mine manager. His house reflected that status. An 11 room, red brick house was built in 1846-7. This was to become a landmark on the island and a significant historic place.