GATHERING

Gatheringistheprocessofdrawingagivenamountoffabricintoapredeterminedsmallerarea along one or several stitching lines, to create soft even folds. Fabric is usually gathered to one half or one third the original width, the effect may be soft and drapey or crisp and billowy, depending on the fabric. Gathering most often occurs in a garment at waistline ,cuffs or yoke orasruffles. Gathering is done after construction seams have been stitched seam finished and pressed. Because gathers fall best on the lengthwise grain, the rows of stitching should run across the grain. Stitch length for gathering is longer and tension is looser than usual. It is advisable top retestonascrapoffabric.Suitablestitchlengthsvaryform6to12perinch,shorterforsheeror light fabrics and longer for thick, heavy materials. The shorter the stitch length, the more control we have over the gathers, no matter what the fabric. In gathering, it is bobbin thread that is pulled, and a looser upper tension makes it easier to slide the fabric along the thread. Forheavyfabricsorextensivegatheringuseanextrastrengththreadinthebobbin.

1 Working on the right side of the fabric, stitch two parallel rows in seam allowance, one a thread width above seamline, the other higher, Leave long thread ends Beak stitching at seams,asillustrateditisdifficulttogatherthroughtwothicknesses.

 2. Pin the stitched edge to the corresponding straight edge, right sides together, matching

notches, centre lines and seams. Anchor bobbin threads (now facing you) at one end by twistinginafigure8aroundpins.Excessmaterialisnowreadytogather.

3. Gently pull on the bobbin threads while, with the other hand, you slide the fabric along the

thread to create uniform gathers. When this first gathered section fits the adjoining edge, securethethreadendsbywindingtheminatightfigure8aroundapin.

4. To draw up the ungathered portion, untie the bobbin threads and repeat the process from

the other end. When the entire gathered edge matches the straight edge, fasten the thread end.Adjustgatheruniformlyandpinatfrequentintervalstoholdfoldsinplace.

 5. Before seaming gathered section, be sure machine is set to stitch length suitable to fabric

and tension is balanced. With gathered side up stitch seam on seamline, holding fabric on eithersideofneedlesothatgatherswillnotbestitchedintolittlepleats.

6. Trim any seam allowances, such as side seams which are caught into the gathered seam. Press seam as stitched in the seam allowances, using just the tip of the iron, Seam finish the edge with a zigzag or overedgestitchorapplyastay(oppositepage)

7. Open garment section out flat and press seam as it should go in finished garment to ward

bodice if a waistline seam, towards shoulder if a yoke seam toward wrist if a cuff. Again work withjustthetipoftheiron,pressingflatpartsonly,takingcarenottocreasefolds.

 8. Press the gathers by working the point of the iron into the gathers towards the seam. Press

fromthewrongsideofthefabric,liftingtheironasyoureachtheseam.Donotpressacrossthe gathersthiswillflattenandcausethemtogolimp.