Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
Author:marshon
Marshon Untidy, disorganised and a bit silly. I am a photographer, artist, body artist, sculptor, prosthetic maker, model engineer, and general idiot who likes making stuff and messing about.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
Step 9: Colouring
Gelatin prosthetics will take normal make up, face paint or body paint well. Here I have added some normal liquid foundation and some powder to one side of the nose piece. If your prosthetics have well feathered edges then you should be able to get a seamless blend. Use a little witchazel to dissolve away the edges. Gelatin requires either Spirit Gum or Pros-Aide as an attachment glue.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
Related Instructables
Comments
42 comments Add Comment
timdomul says:
for the foamed gelatine do you have to re-whisk the mixture, or does it stays "foamed"?
marshon says:
Once 'set' it stays foamed. If re-melted numerous times it may need another whisk.
timdomul says:
ok thanks, and for demold do you use anything? or it pops off easily?
marshon says:
Mar 17, 2011. 11:27 PM REPLY I have used plaster, alginate and RTV moulds and haven't needed to use a release agent. You just pull the gelatin out.
nigandjules says:
Hi, I am vegetarian, do you think there is a way of using vegetarian jelly or agar agar, sorry to complicate things! Jules (the same one)! x
marshon says:
Feb 28, 2011. 5:27 AM REPLY Your not actually going to eat this stuff. I would have thought that removing the main ingredient would have changed the properties of the mix so far that it wouldn't be usable. If you're not allergic to latex, I'd try using that instead since it's made from a plant extract.
Babache says:
Feb 14, 2011. 3:39 PM REPLY First of all i want to thank and congratulate you because your tutorial is very good. i try the mix, and it works very well.But I have two problems: one of them was that the gelatine was very sticky (i dont know if it was because of the honey) and the other was that the foamed gelatine was very fragile, it brokes very easily. can you tell me if it is normal or im doing something wrong? Thank you. Your tutorial is amizing ;D
marshon says:
Feb 14, 2011. 6:55 PM REPLY Hmm, it could be that the ambient temperature is higher where you are. I've only noticed any real 'stickiness' in very hot weather. Yes foamed gelatin is only about as strong as foamed latex would be.
Babache says:
oh ok, yes i think is that, after it colds enough it wasnt sticky anymore. Thanks for your reply, see you.
Nelyan says:
Feb 6, 2011. 1:54 AM REPLY I actually joined instructables purely because of this tutorial. I found it last summer and tried it out as an alternative for latex mask. My first plastermold was pretty simple and the foamed version turned out fine. My problem was the yucky smell (I think it comes from the gelatin) that eventually turned down to just the smell of the honey (for these last 4 or so moths?). I stored the mask in the plastermold in a cupboard and only thing happened to the mask was the smell turning better and minor shrinkage on the edges of the mask. So help me, marshon, what can I do to the smell? And now that I just yesterday made another patch, are the bubbles a problem in the gelatin pluck or can I try out molding my next mask?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
marshon says:
Feb 6, 2011. 7:10 AM REPLY I generally ignore the smell, but try adding one or two drops of vanilla or almond essence to the mix, it should replace the smell of beef extract.
I have a deep wound C-section scar!! That goes paralell And well i wish i could fix it w cosmetic surgery but i don't have thr money for it: / so i came up with the idea of covering it w like liquid latter, camouflage it w something. But idk how.. the scar is like half centimeter deep and 22mm long! :'( it really had been so hard living w this scar..I've had yrs w it. Please if someone can help. O and I've tried "camouflaging" it w tattoo covering but didn't really do anything. Mostly because my scar is deep maybe a fill idk. Anyone has ideas? Plz reply. Thx VERY VERY MUCH.
marshon says:
PM me or send me an email addy, there are a number of options you can try using cosmetic SFX products. It will all depend on what type of outcome you are expecting ....
shooga says:
Nov 8, 2010. 9:09 PM REPLY Thank you for this one!!! I have one small question.. after watching this video on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpaSbbAoyuE&NR=1 I wanted to know (bc they sell the stuff and its expensive) if your basic gelatin mixture is the same stuff?? as in I can use it in the same way (making burns over hair/body) when its room temperature. I donate time at a charity haunted house and wanted to make this.. buying it from them would be out of our price range lol and also if washed clean of makeup.. is this reusable? like microwaved again and used? Thank you so much!!!!
marshon says:
Nov 8, 2010. 11:51 PM REPLY OK, their basic mix uses 300 bloom gelatin which is a little tougher than food grade gelatin, and they will be using Sorbitol instead of honey. Other than that it's exactly the same stuff. Most moms would have this stuff in their kitchen, so it's worth making a single batch and testing it to see? Yes, you can wash it off gently with cold water to get rid of make up or paint, and yes you can simply melt it down again in the microwave to use it. I personally would NEVER attempt to use the molten gelatin directly onto skin, it gets far too hot for that. Better to make the prosthetic on a manequinn head and then transfer it to your model. I suggest you make up a small sample batch and test it on yourself first.
shooga says:
Nov 9, 2010. 12:08 AM REPLY Thanx soooo much!! and yeah I wouldn't plan to put that hot mess on anyone.. it seemed as tho they had let it get quite cool before applying to the skin.. I'll try it out this week . thanx again and again!!!
OmalleySFX says:
Nov 5, 2010. 1:28 PM REPLY This looks phenominal. Denfinitely going on my favorites. My only real question is this: as this mixture is basically Gelatin, Honey, and Glycerine, does a finished prosthetic piece feel sticky to the touch in normal temperatures? I deal with a lot of fussy models and actors, so their comfort level has be come paramount. Honestly, I just don't want to hear their bitching and moaning. Thanks for your reply and thanks for this 'ible. I'll definitely be subscribing!
marshon says:
Nov 7, 2010. 2:17 PM REPLY The puck that is produced is not too sticky at room temperature. I usually dust them with talc which gives a very skin like feel to them. I have found that they don't stand up very well to excessive heat, certainly the midday sun on a hot summers day will make them go tacky. I'd also be careful under very hot studio lights, mine are generally for stills work which uses flash heads so no real temperature problems.
Gary_b says:
Hi, sorry if this has an obvious answer, but what is the idea behind adding the honey? Thanks :)
marshon says:
Nov 7, 2010. 2:13 PM REPLY The standard movie props use a substance called Sorbitol which is a sugar substitute, it helps add elasticity and strength. In order to make these entirely from high street sore products I have sunbstituted the honey.
divat8 says:
hey nice tutorial!!! just one question is there a way to make a bald cap out of this?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
marshon says:
Oct 24, 2010. 7:42 PM REPLY I don't think it would have enough tensile strength plus it needs to be mould cast. You can buy non latex bald cap liquid, can't remember the name of the stuff though.
divat8 says:
ooook thanks
Diegoale2000 says:
Sep 26, 2010. 7:30 PM REPLY I drink Tea, but I don't smoke.... I'm not sure what to do...is there an alternative to having a smoke, or can I not complete the Instructable? jk jk, Great Instructable, I'm currently working on it, and I'm letting my plasticine dry/settle
mikoto says:
Great instructable this will add a new dimension to the costuming that I create. My victims (Models) will surely appriciate this.
bluesquirrel says:
May 26, 2010. 6:49 PM REPLY Is there a difference in how long the appliance will last between it being made with the foamed gelatin/soap mix or the unfoamed? Can the foamed mix be poured into a mold as well with the same results but a lighter appliance being cast, in the end? Thank you in advance for any and all replies, and also for all these fantastic i'bles! I'm learning so much from you :D
marshon says:
May 26, 2010. 7:10 PM REPLY You can pour and cast the foamed stuff just the same as the raw material. If you are frreezing the appliances then there's no diifference in the longevity. The foamed stuff works better in a two part mould than a single one. The only real difference is in the weight, somewhat in the strength (foamed are a bit weaker), and in the reaction to external heat sources, the foamed will start to get tacky and melt at a lower temperature than the raw. Neither are as strong as latex, but then you can't reuse the latex either. Most of my prosthetics only get used once and then for stills shoots so mine tend to get melted down pretty quickly anyway.
bluesquirrel says:
May 26, 2010. 8:42 PM REPLY Ah, how hot does it have to be before the foamed appliances start to break down? I'm considering making an appliance similar to the nose covering for a satyr costume, to make my face a little more goat-ish. And in one instance I'd need an appliance to keep for several hours at a time, if not a day or two. Freeze-storage might not be available :(
marshon says:
May 27, 2010. 1:08 AM REPLY I have no idea at what actual temperature it would break down. Mostly the freezing is to stop it going mouldy, and it would easily last a couple of hours and should last a number of days. Why not try making a lump and leave it out for two days and see what happens? You can always re-melt it and put ir back in the fridge when you have finished.
bluesquirrel says:
May 28, 2010. 8:49 PM REPLY One final question; are you using food grade glycerin? I want to ask because there's also glycerin that should only be applied topically. With the prosthetic I'm making covering most of my upper lip, I dont want to be nibbling and accidentally swallow a chunk of it if the glycerin is nonfood-grade.
marshon says:
May 28, 2010. 9:05 PM REPLY In all honesty I have no idea, but I always use the same brand (it's a pharmacy own brand from 'Boots' the chemist). I just asked for liquid glycerin, which they sell as a linctus additive so it must be food grade.
rimar2000 says:
Very interesting. Seems cheapest than alginate, and easiest to find it.
marshon says:
May 26, 2010. 7:12 PM REPLY Yes, but takes longer to prepare and there's the issue of heat to consider. Alginate is much quicker and it's totally cold cure.
joghurtgumi93 says:
is this stuff too hot to be applied directly to skin while liquid?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/
marshon says:
Oh dear .....
ON NO ACCOUNT put the hot mixture on your skin. It is basically red hot syrup, so it is as sticky as hell and it won't come off as it burns into your skin. A trip to the ER for certain. If you want to cast your skin use Alginate.
tufty2112 says:
May 26, 2010. 5:03 AM REPLY Quite a few times you mention that boiling the mix is a bad idea. Does this just destory the mix and make it unuseable or is it dangerous?
marshon says:
May 26, 2010. 6:34 AM REPLY No it's not dangerous other than it's boiling sugar, but the gelatin gets it's strength and setting abilities from very long protein strands that act like elastic fibres. Boiling the mix breaks down these strands, reducing both the strength of the mix and it's setting abilities. If boiled for too long it won't set and if it does it will be too weak to use effectively.
! xD ! says:
Very amazing. If you leave the mask out, does it melt? If so, how quickly?
marshon says:
May 25, 2010. 8:27 PM REPLY At normal room temperature it shouldn't melt at all. I extremely hot weather it may start to feel tacky. If you have ever made Jelly (Jello) from one of those packets where you dissolve the blocks of Jelly in water? It has the same properties as the block of Jelly just out of the packet but tougher and stronger. I have had the stuff under studio lights for 6 hours and it hasn't melted yet. However having said that, it will start to melt if you put something that feel hot to the touch against it. Part of the reason for freezing it is to stop it from turning into a culture and going mouldy. Basically it's toffee.
RevJesseJ says:
May 25, 2010. 7:31 PM REPLY Brilliant! Thank you for this instructable! This really helps me. Using products I can get at the grocery store to make monsters makes me very happy! I do have a question for you. In step 5 you mentioned "washing up liquid" and adding a few drops. By washing up liquid, do you mean liquid soap? Thanks again for this 'ible!
marshon says:
May 25, 2010. 7:38 PM REPLY Yes, sorry for that, I mean the liquid soap used for washing dishes, or any high foaming liquid soap should do it. A couple of drops of bubble bath like Matey should also work.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-gelatin-for-moulds-and-prosthetics/