Sie sind auf Seite 1von 104

for people who love local food

South West | Issue 54

www.flavourmagazine.com

festive guide
A comprehensive round up of where to eat, drink, shop and stay

An overnight stay and a days cooking at Lucknam Park

WIN!

Back to School
Learn from the professionals in the kitchen

Fat of the Land


A wealth of options for your Christmas meal

Your regular Greenliving edition

Inside

CANDLELIT DINNER

WEDNESDAY OCT OBER 31st


BRASSERIE BLANC BATH: Ground Floor, Francis Hotel, 6-11 Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HH. Tel. 01225 303860. bath@brasserieblanc.com BRASSERIE BLANC BRISTOL: The Friary Building, Cabot Circus, Bristol, BS1 3DF . Tel. 01179 102 410. bristol@brasserieblanc.com

www.brasserieblanc.com

Editor Nick Gregory Email: nick@flavourmagazine.com Art Director Bruce Mytton Email: design@flavourmagazine.com Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda@flavourmagazine.com Maggie Fox, Account Manager Email: maggie@flavourmagazine.com Photography Jeni Meade Brett James Contributors Martin Blunos, Tom Bowles, Nick Harman, Duncan Shine, Max Drake, James Underdown, Megan Owen, Jack Stein, Laura Roberts, Romy Gill, Charlie Lyon, Cathy French Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com For competition entries Email: competitions@flavourmagazine.com Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter@flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com

69

welcome
Welcome to a bumper issue of flavour; full of reviews, profiles, recipes and ideas as we continue our march onwards into the festive season. And to kick that off we have produced our 2012 Festive Guide which is full of great places to eat, drink and stay, as well as a host of ideas to help you with your shopping and a couple of great markets for further inspiration. Also with December in mind, our Fat of the Land feature (Page 79) offers up a few alternatives to your traditional Christmas Day lunch and, for those lacking confidence in the kitchen, check out our Cookery Schools feature (Page 25) which should arm you with plenty of inspiration. (A days course would also make an ideal gift!) I was lucky enough this month to visit The Thermae Bath Spa (Page 18) where I enjoyed most of the facilities and also took on a 50-minute facial. This is not something I would normally entertain but it really did open my eyes (once Id woken up) to the beauty of having someone completely pamper you. Megan Owen has taken our in season recommendations and made up a couple of delicious recipes for you to try (Page 12). I have sampled her blackberry crumble and I can assure you its well worth following. Anyway, hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it together...

35

Inside...
04 WIN! An overnight stay and a days cooking at Lucknam Park Hotel, Spa and Cookery School 10 In Season Tom Bowles brings us the best of the seasons produce 25 Back to School Some of the best cookery schools in our area 69 The Complete Nose to Tail Fergus Henderson makes the most out of the whole animal 79 Fat of the Land Christmas alternatives to get the taste buds tingling 84 Susy Atkins gets tasting at Great Western Wine Angela Mount met up and catalogued this wine buffs recommendations

Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judges decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.

Please recycle this product.

Nick
Nick Gregory

Well done!

If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries@flavourmagazine.com

this month
Cocktail of the Month
From Amoeba
The Spiced Rum & Fignog 25ml Chairmans Spiced Rum 25ml Briottet Creme De Figue Liqueur 25ml Fresh Devonshire cream 1 whole free-range egg 12.5ml Demerara sugar syrup 3 drops Bitter Truth Old Time Aromatic Bitters

Cover image supplied by The Devilled Egg Visit www.thedevilledegg.com

COMPETITION WINNERS
Congratulations go to Elizabeth Rocksborough Smith, who wins a night away for two at Cotswold House.

Combine all ingredients in Boston shaker and shake vigorously. Pour into cut-glass goblet. Garnish with Grated grated nutmeg and cinnamon stick. Voila! www.amoebaclifton.co.uk

Well done!

WIN! An overnight stay for two and a days cooking at Lucknam Park Hotel, Spa and Cookery School
The winner and guest will stay for one night at Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, a five-star country house hotel near Bath. The hotel is set within a private estate of 500 acre and facilities include an award-winning spa, extensive equestrian centre, Michelin-starred restaurant The Park and a fabulous Brasserie. And new to Lucknam Park is the Cookery School, offering a unique opportunity for anyone who enjoys cooking to perfect their skills and master new techniques through a variety of innovative courses, all under the guidance of chef Hrishikesh Desai and Lucknam Parks Michelin-starred executive chef Hywel Jones. The prize includes one night in a deluxe room, full English breakfast, a one-day cookery course and dinner in the stylish and contemporary Brasserie. To enter, simply email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with Lucknam Park in the subject header and your FULL contact details in the email body. Good Luck! www.lucknampark.co.uk
The prize is valid until April 1st 2013 and is offered subject to availability.

WIN!

Win! A mixed case of Amandas Wines

Wine OF THE

MONTH

Enjoy utterly delicious and totally un-oaked French wines from small independent winegrowers in the Loire Valley delivered direct to your doorstep in the UK by Amandas Wines. With passion and flair, Amanda brings the true taste of artisan, handmade French wines to the UK. These carefully selected wines are imported from small French vineyards that, until now, have mostly sold their wines locally. To win a mixed case, simple email competitions@flavourmagazine.com with Amandas Wines in the subject header and your FULL contact details in the email body. Good luck! www.amandaswines.co.uk

Tim McLaughlin-Green, sommelier and wine consultant of Sommeliers Choice, was shortlisted for the Harpers & Queen Sommelier of the Year award. His philosophy is to search for and work with family-owned wineries, producing high-quality wines in small quantities, aiming for something really special. November is my month for self-indulgence. For the past 10 years I have organised a trip to Piedmont to eat tartufo bianco (white truffles). The highlight every year is our visit to a pizza restaurant in Asti for white truffle pizzas, simple food executed perfectly allowing the truffle to be king. Piedmont has perfect wines to compliment truffles Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera. My favourite is the latter, Barbera di Asti DOCG. The Bricco dellUccellone 2008/9 (Giacomo Bologna) from Braida is a single vineyard wine that leads the way for great Barbera dAsti. The aroma is rich, aromatic and complex. Generous, voluptuous and full bodied, this silky smooth on the palate wine has a persistent long finish. If you cant get yourself out to Piedmont for the full truffle experience, then maybe settle for the wine alone, it is worth it!

Higher Hacknell Farm


They have done it again! Higher Hacknell Farm, in Devon, have just won the 2012 Soil Association Organic Food Award in the Best Beef Category for their South Devon Organic Beef! The judges described its beef as lovely, very good quality with an explosion of flavour. Why not see for yourself how good Higher Hacknell beef tastes. Their meat is available via mail order throughout the country from the website or enjoy it at the River Cottage Canteens in Plymouth and Axminster where it is usually on the menu.

www.higherhacknell.co.uk

Available from Handford Fine wine, Simply Wine Direct, Clifton Cellars and Sommeliers Choice 50-55.
All wines available from:

www.sommelierschoice.com

> flavour news

Chefs Diary

GRILLSTOCK OPENS AT ST NICHOLAS MARKET, BRISTOL


THE MEATIEST FESTIVAL IN THE WILD SOUTH-WEST CAN NOW BE ENJOYED EVERY DAY!

Twenty-five year old Leigh Evans has been head chef at Chequers, Bath, for two-and-a-half now. Flavour speaks to Leigh about his month-to-month activities in his busy kitchen This next few weeks, from mid-October to mid-November is going to be a busy time here at Chequers. This is a great time for game and so we are featuring a new hare dish, partridge and, in support of Bath on a Plate part of The Great Bath Feast a special venison concoction that is going to wow! Seared local venison haunch, garlic mash, kohlrabi, sweet red cabbage, blackberries, braised red onion & herb pure.

Listed as one of the 10 best food markets in the UK, and affectionately referred to as St Nicks, St Nicholas Market in central Bristol is proud to announce the arrival of Grillstock music, meat and mayhem on one stall, serving up real American pitsmoked barbecue to Bristolians every day. Friends Jon Finch and Ben Merrington set up the Grillstock festival back in 2010 and this year decided to make the barbecue part of it a more permanent fixture in their home city. St Nicks is open every day at Corn Street between 9am and 5.30pm and the Grillstock stall will open at midday every day until the food runs out. Jon & Ben will also offer a vac-packing service so that meat lovers can take home a BBQ-meal box ready to just reheat and eat. Follow them @grillstock or @CArancherBBQ

Eades Greengrocers, who have fields of amazing produce, supply us with some fantastic veg and the dish above has been inspired by their hedgerow produce. Im hoping this is going to be hugely popular...
But the best news this month is that we have been awarded an AA Rosette and we have been entered into the latest Michelin Guide which is obviously a pretty big deal!

Bath Ales Leaves Other Beers Behind


Bath Ales latest seasonal beer, Forest Hare, is set to have drinkers coming in from the cold with its heady aroma and fresh taste. This hoppy autumnal beer (3.9% ABV) is available on draught in pubs and bars until November, including Bath Ales craft beer bar, Beerd, in Bristol and its newest pubs The Grapes in Oxford and Graze Bar, Brasserie and Chophouse in Cirencester. www.bathales.com

www.thechequersbath.com
6

Blast from the past but of the moment


Scotch eggs are enjoying somewhat of a renaissance at the moment, so we thought we would provide you with a lovely recipe courtesy of Chris Staines at The Allium Brasserie.
www.abbeyhotelbath.co.uk/allium-brasserie Ingredients  10 medium eggs (plus 3 for coating)  500g premium pork sausage meat  1 heaped tsp fresh thyme leaves  50g English mustard Seasoning  Plain flour  200g Breadcrumbs Method 1. Preheat the oven to 200C. Place the (10) eggs in a large pan with enough cold water to cover them and place over a high heat. As soon as the water starts to simmer gently place the eggs into the boiling water for about 2 minutes. While the eggs are cooking, fill a bowl with cold water and ice, take the eggs out of the saucepan and plunge them into the water to cool. 2. Place the sausagemeat in a bowl and add the thyme, mustard, seasoning, 2 tablespoons of water. Mix thoroughly and form 10 equal sized balls with your hands. Chill in the fridge for 20 minutes. 3. Once the eggs are cool enough to handle, gently remove the shells. Flatten each ball into a circle and place an egg in the centre. Wrap the sausagemeat around the egg, pressing the edges in order to seal it but being careful not to press too hard. 4. Put the flour into a small bowl and season. In a second small bowl, beat the remaining 3 eggs. Put the breadcrumbs into a third bowl. Roll each egg in the flour, gently tapping off any excess, then dip it in the beaten egg

> flavour news

and finally, roll it in the breadcrumbs, making sure that all sides are coated. 5. Heat a deep fat fryer to 190C. Fry the Scotch eggs 2 at a time for 2 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and place on a baking tray. When all the eggs have been fried, place the tray in the oven for an additional 8 10 minutes. Serve immediately while they are hot and runny. NB at the restaurant we use quail eggs which make for a lovely delicate bite-sized Scotch egg, simply cook the eggs in the same manner for 2 minutes and 15 seconds and finish in the oven for 3 minutes.

GREAT WESTERN WINE ANNUAL PORTFOLIO TASTING OCTOBER 25, 6-9PM

ASSEMBLY ROOMS, BATH


Great Western Wine, recently voted South West Wine Merchant of the South West by the International Wine Challenge 2012, will be proudly showing its customers and Bath and Bristol wine lovers, just why it deserved this award, at its annual Portfolio tasting. On October 25, Alan and the team at Great Western will be opening over 100 different wines, in the elegant and historic setting of the Ballroom and the Octagon rooms at the Assembly Rooms, Bath, including many of the wines which won awards and medals in this years wine competitions. Several of the winemakers of these award-winning wines will also be on hand to talk to guests about their wines, and guide them through the tasting. Tickets cost 20. Contact Richard Lecoche to book. 01225 322814 www.greatwesternwine.co.uk/portfolio-tasting.html richardl@greatwesternwine.co.uk
7

The Catherine Wheel

real ale, great food, beautiful surroundings


Cosy up this Christmas at The Catherine Wheel, which has a warm and inviting ambience, enhanced no end by the gentle crackling of open hearths and the murmuring of contented diners. Using local produce when available all food is freshly prepared. A variety of eating areas are available, including an elegant dining room perfect for a Christmas party, which seats up to 20, and weather permitting, a lovely little patio. Three comfortable en suite guest rooms with TV and tea and coffee making facilities.

39 The High Street, Marshfield, Bath, Wilts SN14 8LR Tel: 01225 892220 Visit: www.thecatherinewheel.co.uk Email: roo@thecatherinewheel.co.uk

> flavour > fab flavour foodie xxxxxxx reads

reads
Pasta Artigiana
Nino Zoccali, Murdoch Books, 20

fab foodie

For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!

Simple to Extraordinary

Pick of the Month!

From simple and rustic to elegant and refined, Pasta Artigiana has a recipe for any occasion. Second generation Italian chef, Nino Zoccali shares a lifetime of delectable pasta recipes from hearty soups to indulgent filled pasta (tortellini, ravioli) and even pasta-based desserts. With more than 80 authentic recipes and a range of basic pasta doughs, sugos and sauces, Pasta Artigiana is as practical as it is beautiful and will become an essential kitchen companion for anyone who loves to cook and eat pasta.

Desert Island Dishes


Recipes from the worlds top chefs
Infinite Ideas, 18.99
To mark its 130th birthday, Maldon Salt Company has teamed up with the Academy of Culinary Arts to create Desert Island Dishes a cookbook from an impressive list of top chefs, including Brian Turner, Rick Stein, Albert Roux, John Williams and Gary Rhodes, among many other well-known names. Maldon asked more than 60 of the worlds top chefs: Whats the one dish you couldnt live without your desert island dish? The responses led to a book filled with inspiration, diversity and new twists on popular dishes. Desert Island Dishes contains 80 recipes, from simple, traditional suppers to more complex dinner party crowd-pleasers that are sure to wow your guests.

Divine Vegan Desserts


Over 100 delectable dairyand egg-free recipes
Lisa Fabry, Grubb Street, 10.99
Staying slim and eating desserts are surely contradictions because puddings tend to be laden with calories from butter, eggs and cream. Not any longer. Divine Vegan Desserts is reclaiming the reputation of desserts by proving that they can be beautiful, delicious and healthy. All the desserts in the book are dairy-and egg-free, and therefore completely free of saturated fats. There are also many recipes suitable for people following a gluten-or nut-free diet. So whether you are a practising vegan, lactose intolerant, on a gluten-free diet or simply want luscious desserts without all the calories this is the book for you.

Slow Cooking

Mouthwatering recipes with minimum effort


James Martin, Quadrille, 20
Slow Cooking is an irresistible collection of simple, delicious dishes to take your time over. James tempting recipes make it easy to cook fabulous food for family and friends. The recipes range from family favourites such as soups, roasts and one-pots, to more unexpected and adventurous dishes that embrace the slow philosophy, such as fresh mackerel pickled with oil, vinegar and whole spices or fillet of beef wrapped in cling film and slowly roasted until cooked perfectly to medium rare. Slow Cooking shows how, by preparing a few good-quality ingredients, and cooking or marinating them slowly for a least an hour, everyone can produce showstopping dishes with very little fuss.
9

> flavour in season

Blackberries
Wonderfully juicy, blackberries should be a firm favourite in your kitchen throughout the autumn. They are a purple/ black berry with a flavour ranging from sweet and juicy larger berries to more tart and firm smaller berries. One of my favourite childhood recipes was blackberry and apple crumble that makes use of two abundant fruits at this time of year. If possible, pick them rather than buy them as they do not store that well. If you are buying in punnets make sure the berries are plump and shiny and not squashed. If you have picked them, place on kitchen paper on a plate in the fridge so that they dont get crushed. However, they are best eaten right away!

At their best

right
Celeriac
An unusual looking root veg, celeriac is knobbly and round and smells distinctively like celery. Its the root of some celery varieties and has a similar flavour although a bit milder and sweeter. Pick out roots that are medium in size as if they are too large they can be quite woody. They should also be firm to the touch with fresh leaves at the top if still attached. They keep well in the fridge for a good week. Be prepared for a bit of wastage when you prepare them as they need to be peeled. Try them thinly sliced and mixed with potatoes in a gratin.

10

> flavour in season

Kale
Kale is another descendant of the cabbage family. Its also a very hardy winter vegetable despite its appearance and partners very well in dishes with winter game. It has a much richer flavour than some cabbage varieties and, like all good greens, is packed with goodness. Small kale leaves are often younger and can be sweeter, but avoid discoloured leaves as these may be past their best. Large leaves often come with thicker stalks that require more cooking than the leaves so be careful. Its also best as soon as it has been picked as it doesnt store too well.

now
Sloes

We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes.Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about thebest produce of the month.

Hartley Farm Shop and Cafis located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce.Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: @hartleyFarm

Sloes can be found in abundance in many hedgerows throughout October and are often thought of as the last fruit of autumn. They are small, inky skinned fruits with a green flesh and are another seasonal delight that is best after the first frost. They have a very sharp, acidic taste to them when raw and so are best used in jams and liqueurs. When preparing them for the latter, the alcohol needs to permeate the skin so it helps if the fruits have faced a frost or simply prick with a needle. Pick unblemished berries that are slightly yielding to the touch.

11

> flavour winter warmers

Winter Warmers
By Megan Owen
As the nights draw in and the weather gets colder, most of us turn to tummy-warming food and hand-warming drinks for comfort. Instead of buying in the pies, casseroles, hot pots and soups however, why not make your own? Theres no warmer place to be than next to a hot stove with a scrummy evening feast being created, and to get you started, here are some recipe ideas to snuggle up with and enjoy over the next few months.

Celeriac Soup
Serves 2-4 For comfort from seasonal produce, why not try celeriac soup? If you find the recipe below too creamy, try adding an apple for a bit of sharpness. You could also test out different ways of finishing the soup before serving. Chopped chives or parsley can add colour for example, while walnuts and/or crispy bacon pieces can add crunch.

Ingredients 1 tbsp oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 large potato, peeled and chopped 1 celeriac, peeled and chopped 600ml vegetable stock Salt and freshly ground black pepper Method 1. Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat, and fry the onion for 3-4 minutes until softened. Then add the garlic and cook for one minute. 2. Add the potato and celeriac, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. 3. Add the stock and cook for 10 minutes, until the potato and celeriac have softened. 4. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool for a few minutes, before blending the vegetable mixture. 5. Serve the soup in a bowl and finish as desired.
12

> flavour winter warmers

Cheesy Leek Risotto with Sweet Potato Bites


Serves 2 The therapeutic method used to make risotto means that it can be the perfect dish to cook if you are looking to unwind after a long and hectic day at work. One of my favourites is cheesy leek risotto, and to add some colour, flavour and texture variations, I finish the dish with cubed chunks of roasted sweet potato and a handful of King Prawns. Ingredients 150g Arborio risotto rice 1 onion, finely chopped  1 leek, sliced into even-sized pieces 2 tbsp oil 1 litre vegetable stock 50g cheese, grated  1 sweet potato, peeled and chopped into small, even-sized chunks  A handful of cooked king prawns Method 1. Pre-heat the oven to 200C. 2. Spread the sweet potato over a baking tray and toss in one tablespoon of oil until evenly coated. Place in the oven for 30 minutes, moving and turning the chunks occasionally to make sure that they cook evenly. 3. Heat one tablespoon of oil in a large pan over a medium heat and fry the onion for two minutes. Add the rice and mix with the onion to coat the grains in oil. 4. Gradually add the stock, stirring so that the rice cooks evenly and does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Add the

leeks when half of the stock has been used, and then add the remaining stock. 5. When all of the stock has been absorbed, test the consistency of the rice. If the rice is not quite cooked, add a little extra water, and test again when it has been absorbed. 6. When the rice is cooked, turn off the heat and mix in a handful of grated cheese and some ground black pepper. 7. Plate up the risotto, and finish off with the roasted sweet potato chunks, a handful of prawns and some finely grated cheese.

Blackberry Crumble
Serves 3-4 If you fancy a warm and wintery dessert to end your meal, then why not make a classic crumble? For extra fruity flavour, you could add apple or pear to complement the blackberries, and cinnamon or ginger could be added to the crumble topping for a warmer flavour. For a crunchier finish you could also add oats or chopped nuts.

Ingredients 200g plain flour 100g butter/margarine 100g golden caster sugar 300g blackberries 1 tbsp sugar for fruit (if desired)

Method 1. Pre-heat the oven to 180C 2. Spread the blackberries over the base of an ovenproof dish, and sprinkle over the sugar, if desired. 3. In a bowl, rub the butter into the flour,

until a mixture resembling breadcrumbs is achieved. Add the sugar and mix through. 4. Scatter the crumble topping over the top of the fruit, and place in the oven for 30-40 minutes until the crumble is crunchy, and the juice from the blackberries is bubbling.
13

Jon Thorners

butchers

the

tip

Jon Thorner is the founder of Jon Thorners Ltd and is South West Chairman of the Q Guild of Butchers association. The awardwinning businessman has a farm shop near Shepton Mallet, five butchery counters across the South West and makes fantastic pies... Jon Thorners Bridge Farm Shop Pylle, Shepton Mallet Somerset BA4 6TA 01749 830138 www.jonthorners.co.uk

Christmas Poultry
We offer a great selection of quality turkeys to suit all tastes and budgets, ranging from white, bronze, free-range, organic and Copas, and as whole birds, crowns and boneless joints, with or without stuffing. But not everyone wants a turkey or sometimes it can be too large a bird for what people need, so we also offer a diverse range of alternative Christmas poultry that you can order for the big day. Three Bird Roast Three bird roasts use a whole bird, which is stuffed with the meat of two other birds and also a seasonal stuffing. Our three bird roast proves more and more popular every year and our Gold Award winner from the Q Guild Butchers product evaluation, is a whole free-range goose, with free-range chicken, English guinea fowl and stuffed with pork and apricot forcemeat. Stuffed Guinea Fowl and Pheasant Guinea fowl is a perfect alternative and is very lean and high in protein. Pheasant has a strong gamey flavour, with plenty of meat on the breast. We stuff ours with winterberry forcemeat, to create a real show-stopper. Both these products have won Gold at Q Guild competitions. Our stuffed guinea fowl would feed three or four people and the stuffed pheasant two. Free-Range Goose and Duck We have been sourcing our goose and duck from Cracknells Farm for over 20 years. Based in Langport, the freerange poultry farm has over 50 years of experience in rearing chickens, geese and ducks. Goose is not a particularly meaty bird, but what it has is full of flavour, much richer than turkey, perfect for the smaller family. Duck has a wonderful rich, dark meat and goes well with fruity sauces at Christmas. This year we are offering duck stuffed with forcemeat, apricot, raisin and pancetta.

Twitter: @JonThorners Facebook: Jon Thorners

We are now taking orders for Christmas please visit www.jonthorners.co.uk and see our full range on offer plus the opportunity to win 1,000!

turkey

PHEASANT Guinea fowl


14

duck

goose

Chris Staines
Chris Staines, head chef at The Allium Brasserie, is one of the most acclaimed chefs working in the UK and is highly regarded in the industry. He was head chef at Foliage, Mandarin Oriental, where he held a Michelin star for seven years and worked with Marco Pierre White at the three Michelin-starred The Oak Room. Chris philosophy is to produce simple food with the freshest possible ingredients, in a menu that combines variety and style.

askachef:
Q
I am very keen on recycling and unfortunately dont have a garden. I throw away so much fruit and vegetable peel, can I use this for anything? Sarah Lewis, Shepton Mallet Erm, the short answer is no not really, however, why peel the vegetables at all? Most vegetables and some fruit can be eaten whole with the skin on; in fact much of the flavour and nutrition is to be found in the bit most of us throw away on a daily basis. Potatoes for example carry much of their vitamins in the skin (including about 45per cent of the RDA of vitamin C for a medium/large potato) there are however a few things to remember. The reason we peel vegetables is to ensure that we are not ingesting soil and the sometimes harmful bacteria which dwell there, a good wash with a toothbrush or rough cloth should leave the veg clean and soil free.

My daughter has decided to become a vegetarian and other than pasta I dont really know what to cook for her. Help please? Samantha Baldwin, Bristol People tend to be a bit scared of vegetarian cooking, without good reason. For many the meaty part of the meal is usually the main event and vegetables are something that come as a side dish or second thought. My favourite way of dazzling veggies is definitely with a curry and this recipe for a Thai red curry with butternut squash will go down a storm. For the paste  3shallots, roughly chopped  3garlic cloves  3 birdseye chillis (deseeded)  1 walnut-sized piece ofginger, peeled and chopped  1lime, zested and juiced  1 tbsp light soy sauce  1 tsp cumin seeds (toasted)  2 tsp coriander seeds (toasted)  1 tsp freshly ground black pepper  2 lemongrassstalks, roughly chopped Smash all of the ingredients together in a pestle and mortar or food processor until paste like. For the curry  1 tbsp vegetable or sunflower oil  1onion, chopped  Thai red curry paste  1 medium butternut squash

(about 500g/1lb 2oz) peeled, deseeded and cut into chunks  x 400ml / 14 fl oz can reduced-fat coconut milk  200ml vegetable stock  140g green beans  Chopped pineapple  Coriander leaves, chopped, and leaves to garnish Heat the oil in a wok or pan. Fry the onion for 5 mins until softened. Stir in the red curry paste and cook gently until aromatic, then add the squash, coconut milk and stock. Simmer for 15-20 mins until the squash is tender. After 10 mins cooking, tip in the green beans. Stir in the pineapple and coriander, cooking for just a few mins until the pineapple heats through. Sprinkle with the coriander leaves and serve the curry in bowls with noodles or rice.

What does blanching mean? I see it in lots of recipes and always think I have to boil something for a very short time and never really understand why? Martin Henderson, Totnes Blanching is a really useful way of pre-cooking vegetables so that they only need re-heating later. This also helps keep their bright, vibrant colour. Blanching vegetables before freezing is also recommended as this destroys certain enzymes and bacteria, but helps preserve the colour, texture and flavour of foods. To blanch, bring a saucepan of water to a rolling boil, add the vegetables, bring back to the boil and boil for just a couple of minutes only. Drain, and then plunge the vegetables into ice-cold water. When the vegetables are cold, drain again and freeze if desired or reheat in boiling water when ready to serve.
Blanching times:Carrots: thinly sliced or diced, 3-5 minutes/Green beans: 2-3 minutes/ Sprouts: 4-5 minutes/Cauliflower: 3 minutes/ Asparagus: 2-3 minutes/Peas: 1 minute

Abbey Hotel, North Parade, Bath BA1 1LF 01225 461603 www.abbeyhotelbath.co.uk
15

> flavour tools of the trade

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

Taken from

VIRGIN TO VETERAN by SAM STERN, published by Quadrille (20, hardback)

It may seem obvious, but is your kitchen fully stacked? Sam Stern gives us his rundown of the essentials needed to maximise productivity in the most important room in the house...

HARDWARE ESSENTIALS
These are the hand tools I find myself using all the time. Get them cheap from any specialist kitchen store. Rather than lose them in drawers, I stick them in pots and sit them by my board then shift them across to the hob when Im working there. WOODEN SPOONS For turning/beating/creaming/mixing. Long cool handles wont burn your hands and the ends wont melt. Hand-wash. METAL SPOONS For measuring and baking. Dont use them in pans, theyll scratch. LONG METAL SKEWER For testing steak/roasts/chops for doneness. Cheap and it works. SLOTTED SPOON For draining and lifting food out of oil/liquids/ stir-fries. BALLOON WHISK For whipping cream/meringue/ egg whites etc. Helps make the smoothest of sauces. TONGS For quick and easy turning, shifting meat and other slippery things in and out of hot pans or lifting spaghetti onto dishes. A key tool in your arsenal. SPATULA Use to turn food. Made in metal and nylon (for non-stick pans) their wide, slotted head and off-set angle is ideal for turning and shifting.
16

FISH SLICE Designed to slide easily under a whole bit of fish so you turn can turn it neatly (the solid head helps). Use for wide food like chicken schnitzel or small roasts. THIN SPATULA Slide under biscuits to release from the tin or use to ice cakes. Its long, narrow and very thin, so perfect for lifting food like steaks to check for doneness. RUBBER SPATULA Has flexibility and at least one rounded tip to retrieve all the mix from the cake bowl/sauce from the pan. POTATO RICER A giant garlic press for spuds. Inexpensive. Makes the best, driest mash. LADLE For moving soups and other liquids (eg. crpe mix/eggs for omelette) into or out of the pan. PEELER Use to peel spuds and other veg. Cuts carrots/ courgette/cucumber into ribbons; makes chocolate curls/ Parmesan shavings. MICRO-PLANE GRATER For fine grating hard cheese/citrus zest. GARLIC CRUSHER What it suggests. Does it fast. Alternatively, use a chef s knife. SILICONE BRUSH Nifty. Use to brush egg-wash/glaze on pastry; grease tins/dishes/souffl dishes; brush oil onto food; re-apply a marinade.

> flavour tools of the trade

POTS AND PANS


Poor pans wont do your techniques proud: if youre buying new you want a good surface, a weight to suit your hand and metal handles so you can fry and bake. Thicker bases mean your food is less likely to burn and youll keep command and control. Non-stick are easier to use but dont last as long. LIDDED SAUT PAN For sauts (high-heat frying/tossing food) and stews/sauces.

CHEFS KNIFE

GRIDDLE PAN Pan-grills fast and healthier than frying. Like an indoor BBQ. A multi-purpose broad blade. Good for precision cutting/ dicing/slicing/chopping/cubing/light butchery. OVENPROOF FRYING PAN
Metal handled. For fry-bake recipes and standard fry.

DISHES
Dont go mad: see how few you can get away with: raid pro-kitchen stores for value. CASSEROLE DISH Get the size to suit your needs. I like using wider ones.

ON THE SHELF

PASTA PAN Needs to be big.


Convert to a steamer/use for stocks.

(or in the cupboard)


Some of your hardest working items, bowls especially. MIXING BOWLS 1 x 4 litre and 3 smaller for stacking: Pyrex is less likely to scratch than plastic (essential if using to whisk egg whites) or to absorb smells: use it for mixing/ freezing/reheating/melting chocolate/ making sauces over hot water.

MEDIUM SAUCEPAN For making


soups/sauces, boiling potatoes.

LARGE SHALLOW BAKING DISH For bakes/lasagne/roasting


vegetables.

SMALL SAUCEPAN For cooking


eggs, small amounts of vegetables or heating milk.

RAMEKINS For prep storage/


puddings/souffls/baked eggs.

WOK For stir-fries, also good for


deep-frying but itll need a flat base.

MUGS, CUPS, PLATES AND BOWLS Use your usual stuff for
mixing, prepping and serving.

CRPE PAN Easy in and out for


pancakes and good for flatbread.

MEASURING JUGS For measuring/


mixing liquids, controlled pouring for sauces/mayo.

OMELETTE PAN Neat 15cm pan:


just the right size and multi-tasks.

COLANDER For draining anything. Use as a fruit bowl or over pan as a steamer. SIEVE For sifting flours etc. for baking/
draining vegetables. Use to pure fruit.

GETTING THE MEASURE


Accurate measuring gives you a confident base to work from when youre starting out. Its about getting the balance of ingredients right. Having a carrot-heavy casserole for example is not a disaster, but exact measurement is more crucial in baking. If the amount of raising agents wrong or the egg/fat/flour ratio is out your cake may not be as light as it could be. Use metric/ imperial, cups, spoons, US cup measurements, oldschool scales with weights, electronic jobs with loads of extras like thermometer, timer, whatever as long as its easy to read, fits into your space and is above all accurate. Once youre fully into it, youll find you can start to judge your measurements by eye. Recipes are written in a mix of measurements: check online for conversions for dry weight and liquid volumes, or use an app or an oven magnet instead.
17

BOX GRATER For grating cheese/


vegetables etc.

PESTLE AND MORTAR For


bashing marinades/smashing spices.

MINCER For mincing your own meat. Makes a radical difference. PASTA MACHINE Reasonably cheap
and gives impressive results.

GET HOOKED Hang your pots and pans for space, time, accessibility.

> flavour thermae bath spa

flavour editor Nick Gregory enjoyed a ladies that lunch experience as he took in the heritage of one of Baths most famous calling cards...

Thermae Bath Spa


I
ve never been one of those people whos particularly at home in my own company especially on an outing or excursion preferring more the interaction of others and the sharing of experiences. As such, a solo trip to Thermae Bath Spa, complete with tailor-made 50-minute facial and an interim lunch in The Springs Cafe & Restaurant, was one I was a little daunted by. I neednt have been. Despite having had plenty of time to prepare and plan my day, I still managed to forget my swimming shorts, but fear not: The No. 8 shop in reception stocks all you need to not scare the other Spa users, as well as a selection from the Pevonia skincare range more of which later. The whole operation here is slick; from checking in, picking up your robes and slippers, securing your locker and paying for food, drink and treatments the swiping of your wristband as a transaction and settling up at the end of play could not be simpler. Thermae Bath Spa is the only spa in the UK to offer bathing in naturally warm spring waters and, from the off, on the lower ground floor in the Minerva Bath, thats exactly what I enjoyed. My preconceptions of possibly being a little bit lonely quickly faded as I fully immersed myself performing gentle lengths in a very big bath. My bathroom suite at home simply does not offer-up this opportunity. Within the Minerva Bath there is also a massage jet, a whirlpool and a lazy river. Moving up a couple of floors you reach the Steam Rooms and Waterfall Shower,
18

a dedicated level devoted to ensuring you are gently relieved of fluids in the essential oil-scented, glass-enclosed booths that really do revitalise and refresh. A quick cold shower then its off to the pice de rsistance, The Rooftop Pool. By day or by night the views offered of the city and surrounding hills are breathtaking, and that coupled with the natural warm water and evaporating steam make for an idyllic and wow factor experience. I could have stayed there for hours. I couldnt however as I was booked in for my treatment in one of the many rooms in the Hot Bath area. Being a part-time rugby player and outdoorsy type I maybe should have opted for a deep massage, but inquisition got the better of me and I plumped instead for the 50-minute facial; basically sleeping while having your head played with. I know now why dogs look so content when you scratch behind the ears. Despite attempts to stay awake much like battling a general anaesthetic it wasnt going to happen as I was expertly taken through a medley of cleansing, toning, masking, rehydrating and exfoliation with their chosen range of Pevonia skincare products. I didnt wake up a new man, but I was as comfortably lethargic as I have ever known and, after a few minutes in the relaxation room adjoining The Hot Bath lunch beckoned. There is something quite odd about sitting to eat in robes and slippers, but I was one of many so the feeling soon abated. The Springs Cafe & Restaurant offers light, healthy (albeit I did have a beer) and

tantalising options that wont undo all the good work and keep you in that healthconscious zone for a little longer. I enjoyed the breaded Gruyre cheese escalope followed by the king prawn noodles. Both dishes delivered oodles of flavour and the king prawns packed a punch to boot. Another trip up and down the lift saw me complete a further circuit of the facilities, once again the Rooftop Pool being a particular highlight and going home time was delayed as long as possible. The Thermae Bath Spa suits all, is an experience that all Bath residents should take advantage of at least once and all visitors to the city should be made aware of. As it turned out going on my own was not just a pleasure, it really did mean I could do everything exactly in my own time and that set me up perfectly to complete my ladies that lunch day with a bit of early evening shopping in the many surrounding excellent shops that Bath houses. For a full breakdown of facilities, treatments, history and prices you really should visit the website as just a page in a magazine is nowhere near enough space to do The Thermae Bath Spa the justice it so deserves

Thermae Bath Spa The Hetling Pump Room Hot Bath Street Bath BA1 1SJ Call 01225 331234 Visit www.thermaebathspa.com

By day or by night the views offered of the city and surrounding hills are breathtaking, and that coupled with the natural warm water and evaporating steam make for an idyllic and wow factor experience. I could have stayed there for hours.

The Brass Pig


The Brass Pig will be launching an innovative new concept to Bristol on Sunday, October 28 called Inn the Know.
Inn the know is a night designed for anyone who works in the hospitality sector; a night dedicated to industry experts or bar staff who would just like to know more about what they are selling. From 9pm every Sunday at The Brass Pig some of the biggest drinks companies and brands in the world will showcase a particular new product or existing product to anyone who would like to come along. Simply show a payslip and you will receive a FREE drink. Every Sunday will feature a different drinks company and the Brass Pig will also have strong drinks deals for the rest of the evening. In addition to this, special guests and tastings will also be arranged to guide you through distillation processes and to build your knowledge on the history of spirits and brands. To find out more like our Facebook group Inn the Know. www.facebook.com/InnTheKnow

Vivi Cocktail
Vivi is designed as an excellent pre-dinner drink, or as an alternative to dessert. Although it wouldnt be thought that these three ingredients would complement each other, its the exact opposite. Decide for yourself after making Vivi. Ingredients  25ml Apricot Brandy  25ml Taylors Ruby Port1  5ml approx small bar spoon Pernod Method 1. Begin by chilling a martini glass with ice and soda, then measure and pour all three of your ingredients into a mixing glass.Add ice to the top of the glass. 2. Stir with a bar spoon for around 20 seconds to ensure that the ice chills and dilutes the drink just enough.Empty your martini glass and double strain the cocktail into it.Rub a maraschino cherry around the rim of the glass, drop it in the cocktail, serve and enjoy. 3. To experience more of The Brass Pigs cocktails, pop in and see them on Wednesdays as they are two-for-the-priceof-one, all evening.

The Brass Pig, Clifton Heights, Triangle West, Bristol BS8 1EJ Call 0117 3294471 Visit www.thebrasspig.co.uk
20

The Spicery
In 2005, having worked in top restaurants in the UK and Australia as well as plenty of time spent backpacking around the Far East immersed among quality ingredients, James eureka moment to create a brand from an idea evolved when he realised he could dispense his knowledge in a simple, self-explanatory way to the wider public, while continuing to supply top restaurants, farmers markets and online consumers with his extraordinary breadth of spices. I thought I knew a lot more than I did when I started, says James, but I have been learning ever since and that first step in my bedroom seven years ago seems like an age away. First off it was just sourcing and importing spices to supply direct, but then I thought it would be a great idea to combine the spices with recipes and from then the business just took off with our spice packs. The business has grown steadily over the past few years from the first customer (Jamess mum) to now include some of the best restaurants in the UK, and many thousands of home cooks around the world, all funded from an initial investment of just 5,000. James identified that the key factor when cooking with spices was freshness and The Spicery has evolved with the aim of grinding and blending spices in small batches and selling them as quickly as possible to maximise the magical scent and flavours. As the business has grown (I now have five full-time and two part-time members of staff) it has allowed me to do more

flavour drops by

The Spicery Unit 2 Roseberry Place Bath BA2 3DU Call 01225 426309 Email mail@thespicery.com Visit www.thespicery.com

It must be a great thing to turn a hobby and interest into a working and profitable business, especially in a market as volatile and changing as the food industry. But that is just what James Ransome has done with The Spicery...
things with it and experiment with new recipes and dishes that we create on site and replicate within our packs. We now have 20,000 customers in total and send out 4,000 spice packs a month all over the world they make a great present! Spices often seem complex and intimidating so we aim to make the whole subject more accessible, after all cooking with really fresh spices thrills the senses like nothing else so its always worth buying the best you can fresh from The Spicery! From humble beginnings has grown a brilliant little (and still evolving) business that makes spices accessible to all and, with that, increases our awareness of what can be done with food to literally spice-up the kitchen.

21

> flavour chef profile

chef profile
Heading up the Allium Brasserie in Bath is Chris Staines, an experienced and decorated chef who has, as flavour found out a couple of months ago, transformed The Abbey Hotel into a Mecca for food lovers. We caught up with him and found out just what makes this cook tick...
Did you have any Epiphanies or Eureka moments to becoming a chef? And how did you start? Kind of yes. I did two work placements at school (one in a bank and one in a kitchen) and lets just say that the first one didnt really inspire me. The second, however, opened my eyes to a whole different world, where people were passionate, engaged and ambitious. The atmosphere was boisterous and yet controlled, seemingly chaotic yet organised to the last detail and everyone had one shared goal. It was a bit of a revelation and I knew that was what I wanted to do; so I took a job as a kitchen porter in a local hotel and helped out in the kitchen whenever I could. Brief history? I took up a place at catering college and was offered a six-week placement at Llangoed Hall in Wales. That became a permanent job when I realised I was learning far more there. After two years at Lucknam Park, I couldnt resist the lure of the big city, and moved to Chez Nico on Park Lane. It was a crazy, highoctane place, but a fantastic experience in a busy kitchen. At Marco Pierre Whites Oak Room, I worked with Executive Head Chef Robert Reid. Hes an instinctive chef, really understanding flavours, and has been an important influence on me. At Foliage at the Mandarin Oriental, I earned my own Michelin-star that I held for seven or eight years. What gets you up in the morning? How do you maintain your enthusiasm? The love of food to be honest!! It sounds very clichd I know, but you have to be passionate about the whole process. Its not everyone who can plough through 20kg of broad beans (which believe me is not the most exiting of jobs) and still feel a buzz. Its knowing that each and every job, no matter how repetitive or dull, contributes in some small way to the final flourish, i.e. the food on the plate. It helps massively that I have a fantastic (small) team of like-minded people around me and, if I do ever have a low day, then I know that they will pick me up and carry me through with their enthusiasm. How do you keep what you are doing fresh and relevant? The food production industry (like fashion) is quite a faddy industry in general. However we truly believe that the one constant is that great food never goes out of fashion! We, at Allium, tend not to follow trends and fads but just concentrate on sourcing the best-quality ingredients and serving them in logical yet interesting ways, which highlight above all the flavour of the ingredients. In short delicious is always the watchword. How do you avoid complacency in the kitchen? At the end of the day the food on the plate is a pure reflection of the chef. This is one of the few industries in which you really are only as good as your last job! At Allium, we are all very ambitious and very proud of what we do, so we strive to serve the best food we can every day. I am a strong believer in getting the complete buy-in of my team. This means that we all have the same goal and are all pushing together, so thankfully complacency is rare. Strengths and weaknesses? I would say that my strength is in building a strong and likeminded team around me, which makes the day-to-day challenges a lot easier to deal with. I am also very good at leading by example, and would never ask anyone to do anything that I wasnt prepared to do myself. But I am also very self critical a bit of a perfectionist and tend to over-analyse. What is your style and what does that mean? Thats quite a hard question to answer. At Allium we are cooking food that we like to eat, that may be Spanish in influence (croquettas), Thai (Ma hor) or British (Scotch egg). We use influences from around the world, but cook with sound French technique. Overall I would say the style of food is elegant and approachable ingredient-led cooking with a surprising yet logical twist.

22

> flavour chef profile

What foods do you most enjoy working with? I love Asian food, Thai in particular, so I enjoy playing with ingredients that are perhaps a bit less well known. I find the balance and harmony in Thai food incredibly delicate and refined. Is the matching of foods to wine/beer/Champagne really that important to the everyday diner? On the whole I would have to say no. I think the majority of people have a few wine styles that they enjoy, and they generally tend to stick to those styles. There are certain restaurant experiences, particularly the kind of fine dining/tasting menu style of menu, where people are happier to be led by the restaurant, but for an informal meal out at a local, favourite restaurant, this is not a priority. Thats not to say we dont have a superb wine list and we are very happy to recommend whats great with which dish! What makes The Allium Brasserie so special? Great food, fantastic artwork, relaxed service and value for money. How important are accolades? People, rightly, want to know that, if they are going to part with their hard-earned cash, they are going to get an experience that will give them value for money. Accolades can help reassure the prospective diner that the establishment will deliver on quality. This can however be a double-edged sword! I know of at least one popular restaurant that won a Michelin star and almost overnight started receiving complaints, despite not having changed a thing. The expectation level of the diner had simply changed. Has food hit its peak or do you see scope for it to get even bigger? What will be the next big thing? I dont think that food has hit its peak yet at all. There is an evergrowing interest in food production at all levels, and people love to hear about everyone in the food chain, from the local farmer right through to the three Michelin-starred sweary chef. However, the more saturated our screens become with programme makers attempting to cash in on the whole food phenomenon programmes with ever-increasingly tenuous links to anything remotely foodie or interesting the quicker people will tire of seeing one jumped-up, opinionated cook after another

preaching to them about what they should and shouldnt be putting in their mouths. Having said that, I do feel that the media, and in particular TV, has done wonders for our industry. I just wish that every second chef you interviewed didnt feel it was his birthright to be just like Jamie. What is the Bath Food scene like? The Bath food scene is an already thriving and constantly evolving community. There are restaurants, cafes and delis catering to all levels of need or want. We would like to think that we somehow fill a small gap in that already highly saturated market place and offer something that is exciting and fresh to the food scene. Do you try and escape fine dining or do you still enjoy a Busmans Holiday? I love eating out at all levels, and enjoy a 12-course gutbuster as much as the next person. But if push comes to shove, I will more often than not elect for something far more relaxed quite often Asian cuisine. What is your guilty pleasure? About once a year, I get a craving for a well-known brand of chicken in a secret recipe batter. If I do give in to it, I am more often than not disappointed and feel a bit grubby. However, a few months later, I will get the craving again and will always give in to it in the end! Any interesting things about you that not a lot of people know? I would love to have a pet rat, I am excellent at flower arranging and I am scared of heights!

Allium Brasserie at Abbey Hotel 1 North Parade, Bath BA1 1LF Call: 01225 461603 Visit: www.abbeyhotelbath.co.uk
23

> flavour romys kitchen

Romy Gill is a chef, businesswoman, writer, wife, mother and runner! She focuses on the nutrition and healthy aspects of Indian cooking.
Passionate about good health, Romy has lost a great deal of weight and devised her recipes Curries without Calories to complement her own branded range of pickles and sauces. Romy has performed in food festivals all over the country, has appeared on TV and used to be a presenter on a local radio station Thornbury FM. She is proud to be heavily involved in youth culture and gives talks and cookery demonstrations in schools and cookery classes, where she discusses how food is grown, the importance of eating seasonal food and its impact on the environment. Romy will open her first restaurant Romys Kitchen in the autumn. Watch this space! Visit Romys site at:

Follow Romy
Follow Romy on Twitter @romyskitchen Find Romy on Facebook under Romys Kitchen

www.romyskitchen.co.uk

Chana Dal

Serves 4
Ingredients  250g chana dal  2 medium red onions  1 tsp grated garlic  2 tsp grated ginger  2 tsp rapeseed oil  1 tsp crushed coriander seeds  1 tsp crushed cumin seeds  1 tsp black mustard seeds  tsp turmeric powder  1 tsp garam masala  1 large tomato, finely chopped  1 tsp red chilli powder  2 tsp fresh corriander  500ml hot water  Salt and green chillies to taste

Dal is favourite of both my customers and mine because its loved by not only the vegetarians but meat lovers too. Within the Indian community dal is a must as it is versatile as a standalone or as a complement to a dish. Depending on where you are, dal is cooked in very different ways, but at the end of the day lentils and pulses are very healthy and so it does not really matter how you cook it. I love this particular recipe due to the different flavour of spices, blending excellently with onions, ginger and garlic.

Method 1. Soak the chana dal in the cold water for 15-20 minutes and wash it in cold water so that all the starch comes out. Finely chop the red onions and grate the ginger and garlic and then put aside. 2. On a medium heat and in a deep pan, cook the dal with turmeric and salt for 30 minutes. 3. In another pan, heat the oil and fry the mustard seeds until they start popping. Add the chopped onions and soften slowly, taking care to make sure all of the onions are cooked, but make sure you dont caramelise them. Add the grated garlic and ginger and cook for 6-7 minutes on a medium heat. Add crushed cumin and coriander seeds to the paste. Add the chopped tomatoes and cook for another 2-3 minutes, ensuring you keep stirring so that the paste does not burn. 4. If the paste sticks to the base of the pan then add a few drops of hot water. 5. Add the cooked chana dal and mix well in the paste. Cover the pan and cook on a very low heat for 2-3 minutes. You can add garam masala in some butter of ghee to give you a wonderful extra taste.

24

> flavour cookery schools

Back to School
Do you ever find that no matter how many recipes you follow, tips you pick up on the TV or blogs you read on the Internet you can never quite get that dish just right? Well, perhaps its time to go back to school and hone your cooking skills with those that make it their business to serve up the perfect platter. The young, the old or even the whole family can experience what its like to be at the cutting edge of the kitchen as we learn first-hand from the professionals.

25

> flavour cookery schools

Manna from Devon Cooking School


A day at the wonderfully named Manna from Devon is less like a day at a cookery school and more like time spent cooking and eating with friends. Everything takes place in a lovely, homely kitchen, around a single, beech-topped table. The style of food matches the style of presentation being relaxed and welcoming, not at all cheffy or daunting. David and Holly Jones set up the school in 2006 in their Victorian home overlooking the River Dart. Here they run classes for small groups, usually just six or eight people and as few as four for specialist bread classes. Holly trained at Leiths School of Food and Wine, working as a chef, demonstrator, TV presenter and food writer before settling in South Devon and establishing the school. She runs the Schools Fish, Mediterranean and Asian cooking classes. Being on the South Coast and just a few miles from Brixham fish market, seafood features a lot and Hollys knowledge of local fish is encyclopaedic. David worked in management consultancy before retraining as a baker; he now runs a number of different bread-making classes ranging from a beginners Essential Bread through to a three-day, Mastering Artisan Bread for those who really want to expand their knowledge and understanding or even start their own bakery. Davids other, very niche speciality, is teaching people how to use woodfired ovens to best effect. Together Holly and David have produced the Wood-fired Oven Cook Book and their classes demonstrate not only a deep understanding of wood ovens but also a huge enthusiasm and passion for a very traditional method of cooking. As if all that werent enough they also run a range of family classes during school holidays designed to inspire kids to get into the kitchen and families to cook together. Based in the quiet village of Kingswear and also having accommodation, the school is in a wonderful location to explore the culinary delights of the whole of South Devon and especially the incredible foodie epicentre of Dartmouth, just across the river, where first-class restaurants and delis can be found on almost every street. Classes run throughout the year and details can be found on their website. Private classes can be arranged at the school or at your own premises and gift vouchers are also available.

Manna from Devon Cooking School Fir Mount House, Higher Contour Road, Kingswear, Devon TQ6 0DE Call 01803 752943 Email info@mannafromdevon.com Visit www.mannafromdevon.com
26

> flavour cookery schools

Cookery at The Grange


Cookery at The Grange offers outstanding residential four-week Essential Cookery courses and weeklong Food with Flair courses. Set in the rolling Somerset countryside, The Grange teaches in a positive and fun environment. Passion, professionalism and enthusiasm have instilled a deep understanding, love and knowledge for food in the students for over 30 years.

Vegetarian Cookery School


Opened in 2001, The Vegetarian Cookery School, set in the beautiful spa city of Bath, is run by professional chef and restaurateur Rachel Demuth a pioneer of vegetarian, vegan and organic cooking.

Demuths

Lucknam Park
Cookery School
Opening 19th November 2012, the Lucknam Park Cookery School will offer a unique opportunity for anyone who enjoys cooking to perfect their skills and master new techniques through a variety of innovative courses, all under the guidance of Chef Hrishikesh Desai and Lucknam Parks Michelinstarred Executive Chef Hywel Jones.

The four weeks I spent at The Grange surpassed my expectations

This is an incredibly exciting new project for Lucknam Park and we are thrilled to have Hrisikesh at the helm.
Claire Randall Managing Director

Rachel specialises in unpretentious, creative and healthy food for anyone wishing to learn to cook without fish or meat, and translates the approach to her cookery school.

The new school will feature a state-ofthe-art kitchen created by the renowned designer Stephen Graver, with cuttingedge appliances from ATAG and Fhiaba.

Relaxed, friendly and informative


The courses are highly instructive, hands on and cater for mixed abilities from the greenest beginner to the highly experienced. Courses aim to provide inspiration and ideas that are easily achievable back at home, through a mix of hands-on cooking and demonstration with an emphasis on simplicity and fun. Choose from one of more than 20 courses.

The four weeks I spent at The Grange surpassed my expectations. I gained a breadth of knowledge in both baking and pastry as well as the culinary arts. I was exposed to international cuisine, basic and advanced techniques, and above all given the knowledge to confidently work in a professional setting and cleverly cook at home. Ariana Barkin, Michigan, America Essential Cookery Course May 2012. Demuths Vegetarian Cookery School 6 Terrace Walk, Bath BA1 1LN Call 01225 427938 Visit www.vegetariancookeryschool.com

Choose from a fabulous selection of 24 one-day courses at 175 per person. Visit the website for further information and details on all the courses which are also available as gift vouchers. Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa Colerne, Chippenham, Wilts SN14 8AZ Call 01225 742777 Visit www.lucknampark.co.uk
27

Cookery at The Grange Whatley, Frome, Somerset, BA11 3JU Call 01373 836579 Visit www.cookeryatthegrange.co.uk

> flavour cookery schools

The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy


The Devilled Egg is introducing new features to their Video Tutorials, the perfect Christmas gift that lasts a year and costs just 35 perfect for beginners, budding chefs or accomplished cooks looking to learn some new tricks in the kitchen. The Devilled Egg Virtual Cookery School allows you to reclaim your kitchen with groundbreaking new tutorials, including professional techniques put into context through stunning recipes. Get the full set of in-depth video tutorials, accessible anytime, anywhere with a downloadable recipe sheet. Engage in online Q&A sessions with Head Chef Barbora Stiess, by simply writing your question in a specially designed form. These questions are picked by Barbora anytime of the day and responded to immediately. No expensive equipment is necessary to follow the tutorials. Registered users will receive at least two online cookery video tutorials each month, accompanied by downloadable recipes and fact sheets. Using a unique user ID and password you can engage with The Devilled Egg foodie community, receive online support and the chance to win monthly prizes for the best-looking dishes. This year will also see the launch of Christmas Vouchers as well as an online shop with a wide range of edible treats, including The Devilled Eggs make it at home presents, cookery equipment and ingredients.

The Devilled Egg Latchford House, 8 Downfield Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2TH Call 0117 9732823 Email mail@thedevilledegg.com Visit www.thedevilledegg.com
28

> flavour cookery schools

Cheese Making Classes


Have you ever imagined making your own cheese at home? Enrol on a Cutting the Curd Cheese Making Class with tutor Louise Talbot and learn the skills to make a range of delicious cheese including halloumi, mascarpone and mozzarella using farm or supermarket milk!

Cutting the Curd

THe Foodworks
Cookery School
Foodworks offers a wide range of courses for all abilities. Spend anything from a couple of hours creating canaps, such as Truffle Risotto Lollipops with Lime or a BLT in a Glass, to a day learning the secrets of a stress-free dinner party.

Christine McFadden Cookery Courses


Christine McFadden, alias The Dorset Foodie, runs cookery classes in her idyllic home in Littlebredy near Dorsets famous Jurassic Coast. She has recently been shortlisted for the British Cookery School Awards, Best Use of Local Ingredients category and the Peoples Choice: Britains Favourite Cookery School. Christine is also well known for her magazine features on local food producers, and for her inspiring cookbooks.

Given the right conditions and quality ingredients, cheese almost makes itself - you do the facilitating and the waiting!
The classes last approximately four hours and are an excellent mix of demonstrations, hands-on, theory and tasting. They are professional, friendly and relaxed and are also suitable for team-building sessions and hen parties! Held in cafes, farm shops, country pubs, village halls or any similar venue.

The school also offers intensive chalet and uni-survival courses, as well as being a unique venue for wedding, birthday and hen celebrations whether it be a private dining experience where you can watch the chef at work, or a bespoke hands-on cookery session. Why not spoil the chef in your life with a Foodworks gift voucher?

She always buys the ingredients for her classes from local producers. All in all we have much to thank her for.
Patricia Barker Bride Valley Farm Shop, Abbotsbury

Classes are hands-on and include tastings of key ingredients, a recipe folder to take away, delicious refreshments and lunch. They are limited to a maximum of seven people and are suitable for all levels of skill. Emphasis is on seasonal and local ingredients, making the most of Dorsets top-notch produce but also drawing on cuisines from around the world.

Vouchers are available a superb gift idea for the foodie in your family! Check the diary on Louises website to see when a class is being held near you...

The Foodworks Cookery School Cutting the Curd Call 07795 436707 Visit www.cuttingthecurd.co.uk
Colesbourne Park, Nr Cheltenham, Glous GL53 9NP

Christine McFadden Cookery Courses Call 01308 482784 Visit www.thedorsetfoodie.co.uk


29

Call 01242 870538 Visit www.foodworkscookeryschool.co.uk

Th

We to re e G be p proud rea art t B of ath Fea st

A lovely gastropub serving fantastic food, just around the corner from the Circus & Royal Crescent

Gastropub of the Year - Bath Life Awards Best Sunday lunch - Bath Good Food Awards

The ideal place to relax with friends and enjoy great food & service...
Set lunch promotion: 2 courses for 12, or 3 courses for 15
Open for lunch & dinner seven days a week The Chequers, 50 Rivers Street, Bath BA1 2QA | 01225 360017 | www.thechequersbath.com | reservations@thechequersbath.com Flavour_BFC_oct12.pdf 26/09/2012 11:50:28

CM

MY

CY

Come rain or shine, we bring you the best local and organic fare around
Food hall & deli: 94 Whiteladies Rd, Bristol Shop & caf: St Werburghs, Bristol

CMY

www.betterfood.co.uk

flavour

In a Pickle
Flavour caught up with Stephanie Anderson, owner and handson manager of In a Pickle, a wonderful purveyor of chutneys and pickles from Bradford-on-Avon the heart of the West Country
My whole working life has been spent in the food industry one way or another and I really cant imagine doing anything else. In a Pickle is just my latest venture and I have to say my most exciting to date It started off as a promotional exercise to get the word out about my catering company and the light bulb moment came when I realised that actually I didnt want a catering company at all I wanted a chutney company as it would suit my lifestyle much better. Having had this realisation I took my catering hat off and put my production/ retailing hat on and off I went. I was always a salad in my sandwich, and grapes with my cheese, and my preformed idea of chutney was acidic, vinegary concoctions that old men ate and builders put in their sandwiches. How wrong can you be? I wanted to offer different flavours to those already out there and so scoured the pages of old recipe books for inspiration. Im now happy with my current range, but am continuously looking and thinking of new flavours to get the taste buds tingling. I currently have nine varieties, ranging from Mr Smyths, which fits into the everyday good for your sandwich bracket, to the Great Taste Award-winning Hot Lime & Chilli Pickle, which is not for the faint-hearted! I have plans for several new flavours next year, which will include the use of a local ale, and a deliciously unusual parsnip recipe. My chutneys can be found in farm shops, delis, pubs and local village shops. Pubs!? I hear you cry; yes pubs my catering pails are going down a storm with the locals! At the moment all the outlets are within about 30 miles of Winsley where I am based, but I have plans to introduce my chutneys to the North West of England, where I originate and my siblings still live.. Having my own business is hugely rewarding, I love being my own boss, doing what I want to when I want to all fitting nicely with family life. I suppose the converse of that is knowing when to clock off and go back into my role as mum, wife and homemaker. I do have a massive ambition to make this company into something big, probably not global but certainly national, I just need to work out how to do that without losing the homemade flavours with the personal touch that I have created. You can check out all of Stephanies produce on her website where you can also place orders. Get sampling!

Visit www.inapicklefoodco.co.uk Twitter @inapicklefoodco Facebook inapicklefoodco


31

> flavour hare & hounds

Cathy French marches on Lansdown and her waistline comes home defeated...

Hare&Hounds
A
n 18th-century inn, perched above the Charlcombe Valley, the Hare and Hounds really does command the best view in Bath, is just a mile or so from the town centre and has ample parking. However, despite all these obvious advantages, it never seemed to quite get it right and so I was keen to find out what transformation had taken place, courtesy of the Bath Pub Company the people behind The Marlborough Tavern and The Chequers. Bath locals will be familiar with the understated, classic style of the Companys other pubs restful paint colours, wooden flooring, sturdy wooden tables, thoughtful lighting and fabulous pictures on the walls. My favourite change is the conservatory area, which now has a slate floor, sofas and log fire. Outside, the furniture has been updated on the patios, the veranda extended and decked perfect for watching the hot air balloons rising in the summer or wrapping up in winter, sipping mulled wine and securing the best view of bonfire night in Bath! My friend and I visited on an autumnal Wednesday evening and were struck by the nice mix a family with young children eating fish and chips and fat steaks, a table already on the afterdinner sherry and girlfriends sharing a bottle of wine after work. Happily, we claimed a spot right in the mullioned picture window, overlooking over the
32

myriad of lights in the valley below. Given ambience is as important as the food itself, this was a very good beginning I wont refer to The Hare and Hounds as a gastro pub as this could put off people who fancy dropping in for a pint of Tribute in front of the log fire or for afternoon tea both welcomed at this lovely pub. With a nod to the pubs heritage, the menu features lots of traditional British cuisine such as ham hock terrine and smoked salmon among the choices for starters and fish and chips, locally produced sausages, homemade burgers, roast rump of lamb and chargrilled pork tenderloin to name a few of the mains. Then theres the range of steaks from local butcher Walter Rose, which have already gained quite a following in the few short months since the H&H opened. And non-meat eaters are not forgotten. While my friend chose duck and ham rillettes to begin with, I had the delicious house salad of roasted beetroot, toasted almonds, rocket and goats cheese. Other choices on offer included roast carrot soup, baked Camembert and antipasti. Ashamedly predictable in what I order on wine lists one up from the cheapest this time, I asked Sarah, the charming manageress, for her recommendation. She chose a Bordeaux, Chateau Bonnet Reserve 2011, and it was fabulous. So fabulous that we ordered another half carafe. Yes! A pub that serves half carafes on selected wines how civilized is that? Anyway, I digress. For our main courses, we both went for fishy options with

Caroline choosing the pan-fried fillet of turbot, monkfish and crab with broad beans, crab bisque and chorizo oil, pronounced delicious while I went for the fillets of sea bass with tomato couscous and chargrilled fennel, delicately arranged on a slate. For proper veggies there was a butternut squash and goats cheese risotto, thankfully devoid of Parmesan which so many places continue to serve as vegetarian. Usually, puddings dont interest me that much, but the lemon posset cheesecake with raspberry sorbet that we shared, interested me so much that I debated visiting one lunchtime simply for that cheesecake and a cheeky half a carafe of wine! So, to recap, children and dogs are welcome, as are those just wanting a drink. Food is now served all day and starters range from 5.50 - 6.95, mains 8.50 to 20.50 and desserts around the 5 or 6 mark. With a name like the Hare and Hounds, its not hard to guess the pubs origins but, these days, the only hunting youll need to do is for spare table.

Hare & Hounds Lansdown Road Bath BA1 5TJ Call 01225 482682 Visit www.hareandhoundsbath.com

Yes! A pub that serves half carafes on selected wines how civilized is that?

festive season

Our guide to this

Inspired ideas for Christmas and the New Year

Welcome to our Festive Guide 2012


Christmas time, one of merriment and indulgence, can also be a total bombardment of options and choice. So, if youre planning to get together with loved ones over anything from a hearty pub lunch to a gourmet feast, are wondering what to buy, where to stay or what to drink, this guide hopes to point you in the right direction. Designated Christmas cooks might also be interested to read about some great markets to pick up fabulous seasonal produce too. Happy Browsing!

Contents
Where to Eat 4 17 Where to Stay 1820 Christmas Markets 2123 Where to Drink 24 What to Buy 2631
3

The flavour team

Published by: Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road Bristol BS4 4HH Call 0117 979 9188 Visit www.flavourmagazine.com

where to eat

The Muset
A relaxed dining experience

CHRISTMAS MENUS
FIXED PRICE LUNCH MENU 2 courses 21, 3 courses 25 (Tuesday Sunday) FIXED PRICE DINNER MENU 2 courses 26, 3 courses 30 (Tuesday-Thursday) LA CARTE LUNCH & DINNER 2 courses 35, 3 courses 40 (Tuesday-Saturday)

ver a quarter of a century ago The Muset was one of the first restaurants in Bristol to introduce BYO. After closing down in October 2010 the restaurant was completely revamped and four months later Muset by Ronnie opened. In the summer of 2012 the restaurant went through its most recent change and reverted back to its original name, simply The Muset. Today the man making things happen behind the scenes is Head Chef, Jethro Lawrence (since May 2011), while fronting the house is Restaurant Manager, Jonathan Bowker (since October 2011). Now, as the days are getting shorter and colder, Christmas is just around the corner and we enter the season of celebrations, feasting and drink. The Muset provides a wonderful, warm atmosphere, perfect for the relaxed dining experience it offers. The Christmas menus start from November 20 and provide a cracking line-up of dishes; smoked salmon, lemon verbena and horseradish ice cream; venison loin and shoulder, beetroot,

Autumn Lunch Offer 2 courses or main course and large glass of wine 10 Tuesday Evenings Live Music Tom Mounsey plays Blues on the slide guitar Wednesday BYO In tradition of the former Muset, you are invited to bring your wine, nil corkage! Free WI-FI during the daytime cavalo nero, parsley root and juniper and cocoa; almond pannacotta, saffron poached pear, almond brittle, amaretto sabayon and pear sorbet to name but a few. Visit the website for the full menus. The Muset 12-16 Clifton Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 1AF Call 0117 973 7248 Email eat@themuset.com Twitter @TheMuset Visit www.themuset.com

where to eat

Searcys
S
itting in a prime position surrounded by the dramatic Bath Abbey and the elegant Roman Baths, the Roman Baths Kitchen is a stunning Georgian townhouse that has been lovingly and respectfully transformed into a contemporary eatery, celebrating the very best of West Country produce. Jointly funded by Bath & North East Somerset Council and prestigious caterer Searcys, the Roman Baths Kitchen aims to be many things to many people whether its a place to refuel, a place to relax or simply a place to indulge. The Roman Baths Kitchen is open from 8.30am every day serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. On the ground floor, the Deli provides visitors with quick, tasty food. Guests can choose from a wide selection of freshly prepared deli sandwiches, a comprehensive lunch and snack menu, gourmet coffees and homemade cakes and pastries, all prepared to order by Searcys highly trained team. A caf by day with a hustle and bustle atmosphere, the Deli transforms

at the Roman Baths Kitchen


in the evenings into a social hub serving English tapas (available all day) and elegant drinks. Upstairs is the Roman Baths Kitchen, a simple bistro-style restaurant with plenty of character and a warm and friendly team. The all-day menu and seasonal specials, created by Searcys world-class chefs, showcases the West Countrys unrivalled abundance of produce through traditional dishes with a modern twist. For those who like to watch the world go by, the outside seating area gives guests the perfect opportunity for a bit of people watching all while soaking up the beautiful, historic views that the city of Bath has to offer. Whether eating at the Deli or the Kitchen, guests are guaranteed to enjoy simple, delicious food from locally sourced suppliers, combined with genuine old-fashioned hospitality. PRICE GUIDE Christmas Lunch Menu 2 courses with a glass of Prosecco at 22.95 per person Christmas Lunch Menu 3 courses with a glass of Prosecoo at 26.95 per person Searcys The Roman Baths Kitchen 11-12 Abbeychurchyard, Bath BA1 1LY Call 01225 477 877 Visit searcys.co.uk/roman-baths-kitchen
5

where to eat

The Queens Arms


Pampering taken to another level

hristmas at The Queens Arms is a wonderful place to be, with the stunning local countryside, winter views, festive AA Rosette food, award-winning ales and ciders and welcoming open log fires. Its the place you want to sit back and relax. Why not celebrate and spend quality time with family and friends. Book a Christmas meal during December and start with Gilcombe Farm pork and Somerset cider rillette with pear chutney and toasted walnut bread. Follow this with a main course of rosemary, Earl Grey tea and hickorysmoked fillet of salmon with saffron and leek risotto, and red pepper coulis. Finish with white chocolate, orange and hazelnut cheesecake with dark chocolate sauce for dessert, three courses with tea or coffee and petit fours for 24.95. Indulge in a six-course Christmas lunch with Kir Royale and canaps to start, followed by a choice of

delicious seasonal local dishes. A childrens menu is available on request. Book a table for the afternoon and spend your whole day relaxing and being pampered. Alternatively, book a table for the New Years Eve Party; start with a welcome glass of chilled Champagne, enjoy a five-course meal, and dance the night away to your old school favourites. Afterwards, either retire to one of the eight individually designed bedrooms and enjoy a Champagne breakfast in the morning before enjoying a late check out, or take advantage of the free taxi home within an eight-mile radius.

The Queens Arms Corton Denham, Sherborne Somerset DT9 4LR Call 01963 220317 Email relax@thequeensarms.com Visit www.thequeensarms.com

where to eat

The Fox at Broughton Gifford


T
here is nowhere better to enjoy fabulous food than at The Fox at Broughton Gifford. Widely regarded as one of the countys premier dining pubs, included in The Good Pub Guide, The Michelin Guide and Alistair Sawdays Pubs and Inns, The Fox sources locally and also grows an extensive amount of their own produce, including rearing British lop pigs, chickens and ducks younger members of the family will love it. You are even able to wander around the smallholding which is situated behind their beer garden. The Fox really goes that extra mile in searching for excellent ingredients, and the quality of their weekly changing menus reflect the commitment the young team have to keeping to their high standards. And this Christmas is no different. Join them for a wonderful lunch or dinner over the festive period. Check out the fabulous menu right...

Christmas Menu
Starters Home cured charcuterie, pickles, toast. Spiced butternut squash soup, truffle oil, black olives. (v) Mixed game terrine, homemade chutney and toast. King scallops, black pudding, pea pure, devil sauce. Smoked salmon, celeriac remoulade, red wine shallot dressing. Mains 8oz fillet steak, roasted root vegetables, hand cut chips, barnaise. Roasted free range turkey, all the trimmings. Local wild venison, rosti potatoes, truffled leeks, heritage carrots. Casserole of lentils and root vegetables, rosemary dumplings. (v) Local partridge, game chips, chestnuts, white pudding, cavolo nero. Fish of the day, colcannon, winter greens, and chive butter sauce. Desserts Fig and apple crumble, crme anglaise, ice cream, toasted nuts. Chocolate torte, candied orange zest, chocolate truffles, rosemary tuille. Red wine poached pears, rum panna cotta, ginger shortbread. Christmas pudding, brandy cream, vanilla ice cream. Artisan cheese board with homemade chutney and biscuits.

The Fox Broughton Gifford, Melksham SN12 8PW Call 01225 78294 Visit www.thefox-broughtongifford.co.uk Twitter @thefoxbroughton

2 courses 26pp, 3 courses 31pp (Including coffee, minced pies) Vegetarian 2 courses 20pp, 3 courses 25pp (Including coffee, minced pies)
An optional 10% service charge will be added to your bill throughout the festive season All the food is prepared by a very small kitchen team so please be patient at busy times; good things come to those who wait.

Christmas at

THE BOTANIST
Great food, fabulous drinks, festive fun & fizz and we do all the washing up too!
Festive Menu: 3 courses 24.95 Christmas Day: 3 courses 55.00 Berkeley Square, Bristol BS8 1HP tel: 0117 927 7333 www.thebotanistbristol.co.uk Twitter@BotanistBristol

where to eat

Yakiniku @ Mt Fuji Restaurant


Y
akiniku (best described as an indoor Japanese barbecue) is an eating style in which fresh, seasoned ingredients such as meat, seafood and vegetables are grilled over a direct flame. Well known throughout the region for its Japanese food and connection to Honda, Stanton House Hotel has decided to invest in a major refurbishment of its Mt Fuji Restaurant, changing from a traditional Japanese restaurant into this new and exciting concept. The Yakiniku style of restaurant is extremely popular in Japan, allowing guests to interact and enjoy themselves, whilst eating superb food. This up-and-coming trend is aimed at encouraging people to try something different, which is exactly what it does, having opened in late March, the feedback from customers is extremely positive and as long as the Japanese guests are happy it must be good. Guests order several types of prepared raw meat, seafood and vegetables which are brought to the table. The ingredients are cooked by the guests on a grill built into the table throughout the duration of the meal, several pieces at a time. The ingredients are then dipped in sauces known as tare before being eaten. The most common sauce is made of Japanese soy sauce mixed with sake, mirin, sugar, garlic, fruit juice and sesame. Garlic and shallot or miso-based dips are also used. You can choose a set course from the menu starting from 25 per person or eat from the extensive la carte menu, both using the the freshest local ingredients, with meat supplied by Andrews Quality Meats of Highworth. Using this style of cooking turns your meal into a fun, interactive mealtime spent with friends and family. You decide what you want to eat and then simply grill it on state-of-the-art indoor barbecues. All the fun of a barbecue with no need to worry about the weather! Also to try at Stanton House Hotel is the Rosemary Restaurant, European food with a Japaneese twist. Stanton House Hotel offers accommodation, conference facilities, weddings, events, restaurants and beautiful gardens overlooking Stanton Lake and Park.

Yakiniku @ Mt Fuji Restaurant & Stanton House Hotel The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren Swindon, Wiltshire SN6 7SD Call 0843 507 1388 Visit www.mountfujirestaurant.co.uk
9

Christmas comes but once a year at

THE TRAMSHED
And when it comes it brings great cheer!
From fabulous festive cocktails to our delicious three course menu for 24.95. Therell be something for everyone all the way through to New Years Eve. All you have to do is book early!
The Tramshed Beehive Yard, Bath, BA1 5BD 01225 421 200 Twitter@Tramshedpub More details on our website www.thetramshedbath.co.uk

where to eat

The Kings Arms


Nestled in the Chew Valley right at the foot of the Mendip Hills youll find the historic Kings Arms Litton, home to fine food and wines and a Best Country Pub of the Year Finalist. This Christmas they have prepared for your delight a delicious and luxurious Christmas feast. Settle down in either the Old Pub with its open fires and polished flagstones, or in the contemporary restaurant complemented with our personalised service.

Stylish, refined and full of promise


CHRISTMAS DAY FEAST
On Arrival Mumm Champagne & Mulled Wine With Chefs Canapes Starters Smooth Chicken Liver Pate, Grilled Bread & Cornichons Scottish Loch Duart Smoked Salmon, Cucumber & Avruga Caviar Somerset Garden Apple & Pear Salad, Walnuts & Stilton (v) Amouse Bouche/ Pre-Starter Kings Arms Baked Soup of the Seas Mains Slow Roasted Local Turkey with Pigs in Blankets & Herb Stuffing Kings Arms Nut Roast (v) Served with Herb Roast Potatoes, Creamed Brussel Sprouts & Chestnuts, Honey Roast Carrots & Parsnips, Bread Sauce, Cranberrie Sauce & our Special Gravy Desserts Traditional Christmas Pudding & Brandy Custard Sauce Our Cheeses The House Cheese Platter Selection & Biscuits Tea, Coffee & Minced Pies

The Kings Arms Litton, Bath BA3 4PW Call 01761 241301 Email manager@kingsarmslitton.com Visit www.kingsarmslitton.com

85 PER PERSON, SERVED IN OUR UNIQUE BANQUET STYLE SERVICE OUR LUXURIOUS BEDROOMS ARE ALSO AVAILABLE

11

where to eat

The Biddestone Arms

hristmas is the time to indulge a love of crackling log fires, festive garlands, mulled wine and fine Christmas fare. The Biddestone Arms has this idyllic combination in abundance. Whether youre a group of two or a party of 70, The Biddestone Arms is the perfect venue for you. Choose either two or three courses from the Christmas Party menu. For something more personal, they have a private dining room with its own bar and menu. New Years Eve features an exceptional three-course meal and DJ. As a prelude to the festive celebrations visit The Biddestone Arms for a Festive Gourmet evening on December 4.

Idyllic dining in Wiltshire

The Biddestone Arms The Green, Biddestone Wiltshire SN14 7DG Call 01249 714377 Visit www.biddestonearms.co.uk

The Upton Inn


The Upton Inn is a traditional country pub serving good old-fashioned pub food in the beautiful village of Upton Cheyney, near Bitton. Pop in and give their fabulous Christmas menu a try...
The Upton Inn, Brewery Hill, Upton Cheyney, Bristol BS30 6LY Call 0117 9324489 Visit www.uptoninn.com

Christmas Menu
Starters Duck and Grand Marnier terrine with caramelised red onion Winter Vegetable Soup (v) Traditional Moules Marinieres Broccoli and Stilton Parcel (v) Mains Traditional Roast Turkey, Roast Potatoes, Sage & Onion Stuffing, Pigs in Blankets, Cranberry Sauce & Gravy Pan Fried Sea Bass with a pesto drizzle, vine tomatoes and dauphinoise potatoes Stilton, Port and Walnut Loaf with Roast Potatoes (V) Venison and Quail Pie with a red current Jus and roasted new potatoes Desserts Christmas Pudding for One and Brandy Sauce

per person (Under 10s 15)

27.95

Rich Yuletide Log served with Cream Christmas Strudel and Custard Chocolate Rum Truffle Cheesecake Classic Cheeseboard Selection

The Upton Inn is also offering a Business Lunch (16.95pp), available from November 25 through to January 10, from 12pm to 6pm Monday to Friday.
13

Brasserie Blanc in Bristol & Bath have a season packed with festive goodies for you. Please browse through our winter calendar designed to get you through the next three months, and call the Brasseries for more specific info on whatever catches your interest.

October

22nd-28th: Halloween halfterm: Kids film and cooking clubs (Bristol) 31st: Candlelit dinner (both)
November

Raymond Blancs Set Menu: seasonal deliciousness from 11.50 for two courses (both) Bookings for Christmas now being taken (both) Cine blanc film club (Bristol) Festive cookery club (Bristol)
December

Special festive set menus for the Christmas season.


Check with your brasserie for early booking or block booking specials (both)

2nd Peewee Ellis jazz club: Limited tickets to watch this legend live, and a special lunch deal as well. 25th the only brasserie offering lunch on Christmas day.1 sitting only, book early (Bath) 31st New Years Eve: No set sitting, no set menu.
We are now taking bookings to dine from our a la carte menu, from 5pm onwards. (both) January

Shop till you drop then refuel with Raymond Blancs set menu: 2 courses from only 11.50. (both)

Brasserie Blanc Bath: Ground Floor, Francis Hotel, 6-11 Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HH. Tel. 01225 303860. bath@brasserieblanc.com Brasserie Blanc Bristol: The Friary Building, Cabot Circus, Bristol, BS1 3Df. Tel. 01179 102 410.bristol@brasserieblanc.com

www.brasserieblanc.com

where to eat

The Old Station


With obvious links to the railway, The Old Station features an old Pullman carriage as its restaurant, which has been lovingly restored to all its former glory.

Christmas Menu
Starters Prawn, crab & smoked salmon timbale with mini greens & Marie Rose sauce Orange & grapefruit segments with Champagne sorbet (v) Caesar salad with shaved Parmesan cheese & ciabatta croutons (v) Roasted butternut squash soup with chestnuts & pancetta bacon Wild mushroom risotto with thyme & roasted Parmesan (v) Goats cheese tart with tomato balsamic chutney (v) Mains Stuffed breast of Norfolk black turkey filled with ham and chestnut stuffing, cranberry demi-glaze, roast potatoes, winter greens and roasted root vegetables Vegetarian Christmas meal served with a homemade veggie loaf instead of the meat Fresh Cornish monkfish wrapped in Parma ham, lemon, garlic and parsley mashed potatoes, fresh vegetables Confit of duck leg, braised red cabbage, horseradish crushed potatoes Sauted Jumbo prawns and scallops skewered with spicy chorizo sausage, dressed salad and fat chips 10oz rump steak, wild mushroom saut, fat chips, rocket & onion tangles Desserts Christmas pudding with brandy butter Ice cream sundae with chocolate brownie, chocolate sauce & whipped cream Lemon tart with fresh berries Caramel crme brle White, milk and dark chocolate mousse

Extras Cheeseboard Sorbet between starter & main course After dinner chocolates 3 per person Coffee or tea Cappuccino, latte, hot chocolate

24.95 Gratuity not included Merry Christmas!

The Old Station, Wells Road, Bristol BS39 6EN Call 01761 452228 Visit www.theoldstationandcarriage.co.uk
15

26 for 3 courses
Tables must be booked for dates between 1 22 December.

Christmas 2012 special offer


Bookings of 10 or more receive 20% off food bill when you sign up for our mailing list, Bells Supper Club. Simply visit our new website to join.

13 York Road Bristol BS6 5QB bookings 0117 924 0357 www.bellsdiner.com info@bellsdiner.com

where to eat

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa


F
or the very best in stylish and contemporary dining, The Brasserie at Lucknam Park Hotel and Spa is the perfect place to celebrate with family, friends or colleagues this festive season. Just six miles from Bath, this spectacular Palladian mansion and luxurious spa sits proudly within a 500-acre private grounds, so why not take a stroll across the estate or through the gardens before lunch? Award-winning Executive Chef Hywel Jones has created a delicious, festive three-course menu showcasing his talent with a mix of contemporary dishes and traditional favourites for just 29, including coffee and mince pies. This special menu is available for both lunch and dinner from December 1, finishing with lunch on December 31, excluding Christmas Day and Boxing Day.

Gift Vouchers
With the festive season fast approaching Lucknam Park has the perfect solution to your gift idea worries; you dont even have to leave home! Browse through the extensive selection of luxury gift ideas and experiences, from spa days to afternoon tea to a gourmet dinner, horse riding, a luxury weekend for two or even a gift voucher for our fabulous new Cookery School, with a selection of 24 courses to choose from, ranging from Christmas Baking to Michelin Star Cooking at Home. The voucher can be sent beautifully gift-wrapped to you or direct to the lucky recipient. To view the collection or to buy online, visit the website.

www.lucknampark.co.uk
17

To enquire or to make your reservation please call The Brasserie on 01225 740575, for groups over 10, call 01225 740520, or email: banqueting@lucknampark.co.uk

where to stay

Bovey Castle
Luxury accommodation in Devon

ather family and friends and head for Dartmoor, where Christmas and New Years Eve are fast approaching. Described by The Sunday Times as the most overstocked Christmas hotel package, Christmas and New Years Eve at Bovey Castle include luxury accommodation at the hotel for two or three nights, fine dining in the hotels restaurants and lounges, entertainment, activities and much more for family, friends and couples alike. Plump armchairs nestle against tables laden with walnuts and oranges, rooms are illuminated by spectacular Christmas trees and sparkling decorations, and afternoon tea and sweet mulled wine are served beside a roaring fire. New Years Eve brims with the decadent glamour and excitement that surrounds the last night of the year, drawing to a spectacular close with fireworks and champagne on the terrace.

The three-night Christmas break and two-night New Years Eve break include accommodation in one of the hotels 64 bedrooms or within a luxury lodge, with dining, entertainment and a selection of activities included. Prices start from 750 per room, per night for Christmas and New Years Eve, based on two adults sharing a classic bedroom. Bovey Castle Festive Treats include a Christmas-themed afternoon tea with either a 25-minute SUNDARI supplifying hand or foot treatment, or a winter round of golf for only 49 per person.

Bovey Castle North Bovey Dartmoor National Park Devon TQ13 8RE Call 01647 445000 Visit www.boveycastle.com

18

where to stay

The Langton Arms


More than just a Pub
The Stables Restaurant and Conservatory is situated in the comfortable surroundings of an old converted stable, the friendly atmosphere making it an ideal place for a relaxing evening, especially over Christmas. There are six guest rooms built in rustic brick around an attractive courtyard. Plus four rooms in the beautiful Taddlestones Cottage, within walking distance of The Langton Arms.

he Langton Arms, an attractive 17th-century thatched inn, occupies a peaceful spot in the village of Tarrant Monkton, near Blandford Forum in Dorset. This is a free house run with true care and offers a fine selection of drinks and an ever-changing supply of outstanding real ales. The inn is renowned for its excellent food and offers a wide variety of interesting, homemade dishes.

All the accommodation has excellent facilities and the breakfast menu is second to none.

The Langton Arms Tarrant Monkton, Blandford Forum Dorset DT11 8RX Call 01258 830225 Email info@thelangtonarms.co.uk Visit www.thelangtonarms.co.uk

Christmas Menu
Starters Chicken liver parfait, Plum chutney, toast Smoked Salmon and spinach roulade Butternut Squash and thyme risotto (v) Ham hock terrine lined with a free-range egg and a mustard mayonnaise Tian of Atlantic prawns and avocado salsa Mains Roast crown of Blandford turkey, pigs in blankets, chestnut stuffing and gravy Slow braised 21-vday matured beef Brisket, Red wine sauce and homemade horseradish Homemade Venison and cranberry sausages, onion gravy Creedy Carver Chicken and leek pie with a short crust pastry lid Desserts Fruit Pavlova

2 courses 3 courses

19.95

23.95

Traditional Christmas pudding, Brandy butter Apple and pear cinnamon crumble served with custard Chocolate cake, home churned vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce Filter coffee or tea

Please note: tables of 10 or more must pre-order dietary requirements/allergies must be advised when booking

19

Unlock a luxury New Year


at Cotswolds88 Hotel
Cotswolds88 Hotel is home to the award winning restaurant Juniper. Boasting 3 AA Rosettes, luxury is our speciality whether you wish to savour a fine wine by the log fire or take in the magical village of Painswick, make Cotswolds88 your home this New Year.

Bring in the New Year with a gastronomic extravaganza. ~ An evening of celebration including evening entertainment. ~ The evening begins at 7pm with a Champagne and canape reception ~ The grand gala dinner begins at 8pm in the main dining room ~ Experience 7 award-winning dishes ~ Evening entertainment from 11pm till 2am ~ Raise a glass of Champagne at midnight and welcome in 2013 99.00 per person
Price includes a 7 course tasting menu and 2 glasses of Champagne per person. All prices are inclusive of VAT. A discretionary 12.5% service charge will be added to your bill. Deposit required, subject to our standard room cancellation policy, please ask for details.

New Year Eve Gala Dinner

Selection of canapes ~ Amuse bouche Ballontine of rabbit textures with compressed celeriac, remoulade, pear and chestnut ~ Organic salmon mi cuit rolled in herbs, beetroot carpaccio, smoked salmon jelly, caviar ~ Rack of Cotswolds lamb with braised shoulder pommes anna, swede and honey puree, hotpot vegetables ~ Caramelised pineapple, sweet yoghurt, lime jelly, pineapple granite ~ Pear parfait with pear granite, honeycomb and bitter chocolate, Champagne foam, hazelnut milk sorbet

New Years Eve 7 Course Tasting Menu

Cotswolds88 Hotel, Kemps Lane, Painswick, Gloucestershire GL6 6YB tel: +44 (0)1452 813688 | email reservations@cotswolds88hotel.com | www.cotswolds88hotel.com

Christmas Markets
Gear-up for Christmas with a stroll around one of the West Countrys premier markets. You will find food, gifts, sights, sounds and smells that are sure to get you in the festive mood...

Winchester Cathedral
Winchester holds on to title of Englands Christmas Capital

scape to Winchester this Christmastime as the seasonal lights are switched on midway through November and this perfectly preserved medieval citadel embraces its title, Englands Christmas Capital, for the third year running. Visitors travel from far and wide to experience Christmas in Winchester and the surrounding district with its internationally renowned Christmas market and ice rink in Winchester Cathedrals Inner Close, spectacular lantern parade, bustling independent shops and festive fine dining experiences offered by award-winning eateries. Winchester defies anyone to find a more festive city in England!

For more information please visit Visit winchester-cathedral.org.uk/christmas


22

Christmas Markets

Bath Christmas Market


22 November 9 December

ath Christmas Market, the biggest and most beautiful Christmas Shopping event in the South West, is once again set to add some extra festive sparkle to the city centre this Christmas shopping season. Quite rightly, the main attraction of this magical event is the shopping, and with over 140 stalls including new ones in Bath Street and in Milsom Place offering a tantalising array of gifts and Christmas essentials, its the perfect place to get your Christmas shopping underway. Located in the heart of the citys thriving shopping centre, alongside popular high street names and designer brands, the Christmas Markets unique and locally handmade products offer a bit of added festive sparkle to an already wonderful Christmas shopping destination. Visitors to the market can start crossing off their gift lists with stalls selling toys, crafts, clothing, accessories, home ware and jewellery theyll be spoilt for choice, with lots of ideas for even the hardest to buy for family and friends.

The markets food stalls are deliciously tempting visitors can sample cheeses, pickles, sausages and more a taster of the celebrations to come. Tasters of liqueurs, wines and local ciders are also available, and there is plenty of opportunity to stock up on spices, chocolates and puddings all essential luxuries at this time of year. Dont forget to take time out to enjoy the festivities the enchanting sound of carols and the tantalising aroma of roasting nuts and spices are the perfect inspiration when choosing those perfect gifts. Take a stroll through the city centre and you will find even more than you expect with new stalls by the Carousel in Bath Street and more at Milsom Place in Milsom Street, you may find that you struggle to see everything you want to in the time you have. Dont worry, though with the event now running for 18 days, to December 9, youll have plenty of time to come back, time and again. Visit www.bathchristmasmarket.co.uk Like on Facebook bathchristmasmarket Follow on Twitter @BathXmasMarket
23

where to drink

Amoeba Lounge Bar


Indulge in the cocktail season

moeba Lounge Bar, one of the South Wests premier cocktail bars, sits snugly in the heart of Clifton Village. The bar itself is decorated in sumptuous colours with candlelight providing ambience, and a beautiful garden at the rear making it perfect for secret liaisons, while free room hire befits larger groups perfectly. Offering two cocktails for 9.50, over 50 beers and ciders from around the globe and a colossal range of gorgeous spirits, Amoeba is a hidden gem worth discovering.

Amoeba 10 Kings Road, Clifton Bristol BS8 4AB Call 0117 9466461 Visit www.amoebaclifton.co.uk

Bristol Cider Shop


From hot mulled cider to cider brandy and cider gifts, Bristol Cider Shop has the perfect range of festive tipples to make it a truly merry Christmas!

Bristol Cider Shop 7 Christmas Steps, Bristol BS1 5BS Call 0117 3821679 Visit www.bristolcidershop.co.uk

Cider Taster Case Try a handpicked selection of favourite ciders in a mixed case the perfect present for the cider enthusiast or a great introduction to proper cider. Contains 12 x 500ml bottles (two bottles each of their top five ciders plus an award-winning perry). 30
24

Cider Gift Hamper Try a taste of the West Country with a cider gift hamper. Contains 3 x 75cl bottles of cider (one still, one sparkling and one celebration cider), plus jars of sweet orange marmalade and wholegrain mustard both made with Somerset cider. 25

where to buy

Cotswold Organic Dairy


C
otswold Organic Dairy and Simon Weaver began making cheese eight years ago when, having converted the milking herd to organic status, they couldnt find a buyer for the milk. Their cheese, however, soon found a ready market just at a time when the interest in local and regional food was beginning to blossom. Since that time the cheese business has continued to prosper, with their basic three cheeses Cotswold Brie, Cotswold Blue and Cotswold Herb having grown to a range of seven wonderful cheeses. Last year they introduced a Cotswold Mozzarella and a Feta-like Cotswold Greek Style, both made from their own organic cows milk. The mozzarella is made from traditional cultures unlike many of the more industrial retail offerings which are made using citric acid. This leads to an entirely different taste than many people are used to fresh and creamier. This year they have introduced a Single Gloucester called Greystones, working with The Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust on their farm at Bourton on the Water to create this wonderfully traditional cheese using organic cows milk from cows reared on that farm. Single Gloucester can only be produced in Gloucestershire on farms that have a registered herd of the rare Gloucester cattle. Currently there are only six producers so the team are very excited about joining this very select group. GWT have bought a great enthusiasm to the project as it will be the first time they have had a direct link to production on their Greystones farm and they recognise that there will be a chance for their members to follow the enterprise from farm to plate. Cotswold Organic Dairy Kirkham Farm, Upper Slaughter Stow on the Wold, Glous GL54 2JS Call 01451 870852 Call 01451 831073 Visit www.simonweaver.net
25

where to buy

The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy

From the Deep South to the South West


The Devilled Egg welcomes celebrity chef Ashbell McElveen

he Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy has found its soul with new guest chef Ashbell McElveen. Ashbell was born in South Carolina, and his career has taken him from New Orleans to New York, Paris to London and now he arrives in Bristol to cook exclusively at The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy. A chef to the stars, Ashbell has cooked for Robert DeNiro, Bill Clinton and Donald Trump. He will certainly spice up the South West running four courses in November, in the brand new kitchen at The Devilled Egg in the heart of Clifton. He specialises in Cajun, Creole, barbecue and authentic American soul food.

Ashbells wealth of knowledge, culinary skills and personality have seen him appear on many TV cookery shows such as BBCs Good Food Live, This Morning on ITV to 5 Oclock show on Channel 5. Now is the chance to let his infectious enthusiasm and delicious recipes inspire household chefs across the South West. As he is working exclusively with The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy in Bristol it is the only place to see Ashbell in action. Ashbell says, Im so excited to be running classes at The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy. The kitchen is incredible and the setting is fantastic; I cant wait to get started!

My masterclasses will focus on American southern regional cuisine with British fusion, soul food that warms the heart, perfect for this time of year. The classes start in November and Ashbell will be showing students how to make dishes like Classic New Orleans Seafood Gumbo, Spicy Cajun Blackened Sea Bass and Classic Corn Bread. Book now to avoid disappointment and be one of the first to experience Ashbells masterclass in the brand new Kitchen Academy, classes are 125 for three hours to book please visit the website or contact Barbora.

The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy Festive Recipe


Roast Pheasant with greengage glaze, served with Puy Lentils and Beetroot Puree
For the jus  75g cubed pancetta  2 sprigs of thyme  1 onion, cubed  250ml red wine  250ml beef stock  Salt and pepper to taste Heat a pan and fry the pancetta, onion and thyme until golden brown. Add the wine and reduce by two thirds. Add the stock and reduce by two thirds again. Boil until syrupy and season, keep warm. Beetroot Pure  250g beetroot, grated  100-150ml water Place the beetroot into a pan with the water and season with salt. Simmer until
26

the beetroot is soft, adding more water if necessary. Blend until smooth. Greengage Jam  60g greengages  60g caster sugar  10ml water Quarter and remove the stones from the fruit and place in a pan with the water. Simmer for 30 minutes until soft and stir in the sugar. When the sugar dissolves, bring to boil and boil for 10 minutes. Pop into a sterilised jar and store. To assemble Season the breast side of the bird and cover with 6 slices of pancetta (to keep the breast meat moist). Preheat the oven 200C. Place the pheasant in the oven and

roast for 20-30 minutes, until tender and cooked through (the juices will run clear when the thigh is pierced with a skewer). Glaze the bird with warmed up jam and pop into the oven for a minute. Rest for 10-15 minutes. Serve with the pure, cooked puy lentils and the jus. Enjoy!

The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy

where to buy

Bristol Cookery School Supports Local Charity

o raise money for The Bristol Urological Institute (BUI), The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy is running a number of charity events in November and is creating an exclusive 2013 recipe calendar. The BUI is very important to Barbora Stiess, head chef and founder of The Devilled Egg. Her father and father-inlaw were both diagnosed with prostate cancer. Following excellent treatment they both made a full recovery and she feels this was as a result of early detection for her father and the excellent treatment for her father-in-law at Southmead Hospital where the BUI is based. Barbora explains: I am passionate about supporting the BUI and this November the Devilled Egg is going all out to raise as much money as we possibly can. The institute does such a fantastic job, they saved the life of my father-in-law and their research helps with early detection of the disease so I am more than happy to help raise some much-needed funds. It kicks off with The Golden Egg Student Cook Off, a cookery competition where

students from Bristol Uni will go head to head. The four competition rounds will be held on the 8th, 16th and 23rd, with the final on Tuesday, November 27. The students culinary creations will be judged by a foodie judging panel, including Fiona Beckett, Xanthe Clay, Angela Mount, Genevieve Taylor, Lorna Knapman and Ashbell McElveen. During this exciting competition The Devilled Egg Kitchen Academy will throw open its doors to the public in exchange for generous donations. There will also be an online vote for the public to get the chance to pick their winner from the top 10 entrants in the Golden Egg Student Cook Off. Trevor Reid, Head of Fundraising at the Bristol Urological Institute: We are really pleased that Barbora is showing such fantastic support with a host of fundraising activities. The BUI has a worldwide reputation for its research into prostate cancer, catheter research and incontinence. The donations will improve the care we can give to our patients and help us carry out further vital research. The Bristol Urological Institute is based at Southmead Hospital and aims to improve the urological treatment and care of patients in Bristol and the South West. It provides a high standard of undergraduate and postgraduate teaching, as well as supporting and developing urological research, with a particular emphasis on urological cancers. To make a donation or find out more about any of the activities listed please go to www.thedevilledegg.com.

To launch the 2013 calendar and the other fundraising activities please join us for an Orchard Pig Tasting Event taking place on Tuesday 23rd October starting at 7pm to raise much needed funds for the Bristol Urological Institute (BUI). All proceeds from this event will go straight to the BUI, for more information please visit The Devilled Egg Website.

The 2013 Dev illed Egg Recipe Calen dar features exclusive seas onal recipes fro m some of the So uth Wests be st chefs, includin g Rick Stein an d Valentine War ner. At 14.99 it is the perfect Christmas gift and every penny go es to the BUI . Each recipe in cludes a wine recommenda tion from Angela Mount .

The Devilled Egg will also be running a Cheese & Wine Tasting event hosted by award-winning food and drink journalist and author Fiona Beckett, on Friday 23rd November. To book your space please visit www.thedevilledegg.com

The Devilled EgG Latchford House, 8 Downfield Road Clifton, Bristol BS8 2TH Call 0117 9732823 Email mail@thedevilledegg.com Visit www.thedevilledegg.com
27

where to buy

Pamphill Dairy
Farm shop, butchers, caf and artisans
ust a few minutes drive from Wimborne Minster in the idyllic Dorset hamlet of Pamphill, this famous farm shop offers the best in local produce and is complemented by a fascinating variety of specialists offering personal and helpful oldfashioned service. Enjoy tea, coffee, refreshments, lunches and teas in the lovely caf or outside in the garden. Full of character, charm and quality, Pamphill Dairy offers fruit, vegetables, cakes, wines, Christmas turkeys, Christmas gifts and of course a full range of dairy products.

Renowned Butchers Feast on local Aberdeen Angus beef, poultry and game from renowned butchers Feed store For horses, dogs, cats, wild birds, poultry and more Anousta Natural skin, hair and mouth care, produced here Little Blue Barn Attractive and desirable country gifts and interiors Sonnaz Re-upholstery, cushions and throws Also on site an Antique Shop and Picture Framer

Pamphill Dairy Pamphill, Wimborne, Dorset BH21 4ED Shop 01202 880618 Butchers 01202 857137 Caf 01202 857131 Visit www.pamphilldairy.co.uk
28

where to buy

Gastro Nicks
G
astro Nicks specialises in artisan Italian and British produce. Start Christmas with a magnum of DOCG Prosecco (29.95) and fine Italian wines (mixed case from 54). Gifts include pitchers of peppery, Sicilian olive oil (16.50), decanters of aged balsamic vinegar (from 16), sets of infused olive oils (from 20) and a fantastic cheeseboard selection. They also offer a range of bespoke hampers and gourmet gifts, including infused olive oils, balsamic vinegars, cremas, pastas, pestos, salamis, chutneys and cheeses. Established in 2005 Gastro Nicks prides itself on sourcing high-quality produce from small, artisan producers in Italy and here in the UK. Gastro Nicks boasts a fine wine cellar with a varied selection of 30 Italian wines. Gastro Nicks Ltd Unit 4 Garlands Estate, Cadley Road Collingbourne Ducis, WiltshireSN8 3EB Call 01264 852701 Email enquiries@gastronicks.co.uk Visit www.gastronicks.co.uk

Visit us on Facebook and Twitter

Dorset Blue...
Fresh and Delicious!
Dorset Blue Soup/ Dorset Blue Vinny Cheese Woodbridge Farm, Stock Gaylard Sturminster Newton, Dorset DT10 2BD Email info@dorsetblue.co.uk Visit www.dorsetblue.co.uk

Fresh produce direct from the farm in the heart of the Dorset countryside. The only producers of the unique Dorset Blue Vinny Cheese, along with a range of fresh farmhouse soups and chutneys.
Soups Handmade fresh soups, made with the finest fresh ingredients no additives or preservatives in our soups! Our winter flavours range from mushroom, bacon and blue, curried pumpkin and apple, leek, potato and blue, to name but a few! Dorset Blue Vinny Available in a beautiful blue ceramic pot or as a Mini Vinny, ideal for Christmas gifts. Chutneys A range of chutneys and pickles, all handmade, perfect accompaniments to cheese and cold meats. Perfect in a hamper for Christmas.

29

where to buy

The Shops at Dartington


The Shops at Dartington form part of the Dartington Hall Trust and are located on the A385 at Dartington, just two miles from Totnes. With 10 shops, two cafes, the Haven Spa and Dynamic Adventures there is something for everyone! The Food Shop offers a wonderful variety of produce, the majority of which is sourced from the West Country.

A small selection of what Dartington can offer


Collectively Artisan Handmade ceramics in a bright array of mix-and-match colours, brings fashion into the kitchen Fashion Gallery Handbags, scarves, jewellery (most from locally based designers), knitwear, jeans, Celtic sheepskin boots Toy Shop Variety of educational and traditional toys Glass Gallery Vast selection of Dartington crystal and glass in addition to gifts and recycled collections

The Shops at Dartington Shinners Bridge, Dartington TQ9 6TQ Call 01803 847500 Visit www.dartington.org/shops
30

Food Shop Tasty treats for Christmas, most of which are locally sourced in the West Country

where to buy

Turnbulls Deli and Caf

urnbulls has a few specialities this year you wont find anywhere else. For the season they have got Loison Pannetone coming in, the best panetonne Charlie can find for the money. Something unique for the kids? The Bonny Mallows are pretty as a picture, and two stars at the Great Taste Awards shows the taste is as beautiful as their packaging. Handmade by two young ladies just starting out as fine food confectioners, they have a perfect skill for stocking fillers, presents for good children or even for that worn out teacher.

Talking of teacher, Pilton Cider has a new offering; their Pilton Cider (does what it says on the bottle!) 75cl with a Champagne-style top. Charlie had a bottle sitting in his fridge for a month before getting round to tasting it: a wait that wont happen again. As easy to drink as a dry sparkling apple juice, yet with 5.5% kick perfect gifts for the uncle. Whoever it is youre buying for Turnbulls has something to get everyone through Christmas this year, and youll do it with a smile on your face as well...

Turnbulls Deli and Caf 9 High Street, Shaftesbury Dorset SP7 8HZ Call 01747 858575 Visit www.turnbulls-deli.co.uk

Maison Chaplais
Maison Chaplais create hampers with a personalised message, to a price and specification set by you and to arrive on a day arranged by you. Exceptional quality, beautifully presented hampers containing fine foods, delicious eclectic wines and artisan gifts make the perfect offering for those you care about at Christmas. Visit the online shop to see the extensive mix of fantastic products available to you this festive season.

Maison Chaplais 52 Andover Road Cheltenham, Glous GL50 2TL Call 01242 570222
31

> flavour the teen chef

Pork Schnitzel with Cider Sauce


Serves 2
Ingredients 6 pork tenderloins 3 slices of bread crumbed 2  teaspoons of ground coriander seeds (fresh or dry coriander is fine as well) S  alt and pepper 1  egg, lightly beaten 1  tbsp of oil 1  5g butter 1  25g mushrooms 4  spring onions 3  00ml dry cider 1  tbsp of corn flour Method 1 Sandwich the loins with cling film and beat with a rolling pin until they are just under 1cm thick. Mix the crumbs, the seasoning and the ground coriander. Dip the pork in the egg and then evenly coat in breadcrumbs. 2 Heat the oil and butter in a frying pan and fry the pork for about 4-5 minutes each side or until they are golden. Once all of them are done put them in a tray and place them in an oven at 150C to keep them warm while you make the sauce. 3 Add the mushrooms to the same frying pan for about 3 minutes. Add the onions and of the cider. Combine the corn flour with the rest of the cider and stir in the pan. Simmer for a little longer until the sauce has thickened. 4 Take the pork out of the oven and serve up with the sauce. Additional extras that would work well include broccoli, potatoes and green vegetables.

the

teen chef
Over the holiday, my family and I headed over to Europe on a little two-week trip, stopping off at such places as Kln, Luxemburg City and Brugge. As much as I loved the trip and the experience I wouldnt say that Germany, Luxemburg and Belgium are the culinary capitals of Europe. However, everywhere we went we had lovely food, if not the national dish. One exceptional dish was in Luxemburg City where we shared a, wait for it, 111 fruits de mer. I know, it seems like a weird thing to have in a small land-locked country but it was amazing; three tiers that included lobster, crab, six oysters and all manner of small shrimps and snails yum!!! Since I went to Germany (and it would be very hard to write a fruits de mer recipe), Ive decided to do pork schnitzel with a cider sauce. They are crazy about their breadcrumbed fried pork one restaurant simply served that, each with a slightly different topping!

James Underdown flavours 15-year-old budding chef has been back in the kitchen this month to serve up another one of his mouthwatering treats.

67

> flavour fork to fork

fork to fork
Steve Tucker is farmer and owner at White Row Farm, Beckington www.whiterowcountryfoods.com
November is the month when we are generally preparing the farm for winter, there are lots of normal farming jobs going on as well as a few annual things that there is never usually time for, like servicing the tractors and making sure they have antifreeze! We will also be sorting out the pig arcs and moving them, and the free-range hens will also be moved to a fresh place. Polytunnels will then be prepared for the sewing of lettuce and spinach in January. All of our wheat and rape is planted by now spring cabbages will be the last thing to be planted in the season. Our wheat harvest is down this year with poor yields due to the continued bad weather. Weve had plenty of potatoes though and we are busy grading the different varieties (King Edward, Maris Piper, Maris Peer, Desiree, Wilja and Marfonas) to sell in the shop. The Scallop Shell will take any potatoes that make perfect chips. The choice of potato is crucial and floury, or mealy varieties rather than waxy, are essential. They concentrate more dry starch in their cells, meaning that when theyre cooked, the cells swell and create a dry, cloud-like texture but due to the constant changes in starch levels a potato variety that makes a good chip one day might be less good the next, its not an exact science. Luckily Garry and the team in the Scallop Shell know what to look for. November is the time well be harvesting Savoy cabbages, January Kings, winter cabbages, parsnips, leeks, caulis, sprouts, kale, petit posie (a cross between broccoli, kale and sprouts) and purple sprouting, so plenty around. Weve got lots of the lovely aromatic woody herbs in season sage, thyme and rosemary, all great for winter roasts and braises. So there are plenty of good things about the change in seasons!

Steve Tucker is farmer and owner at White Row Farm, Beckington www.whiterowfarm.co.uk

Classic Fishcakes with Tartare Sauce


Ingredients  500g mixed fish (cod, whiting, salmon, and monkfish) ask the fishmonger what is in season  500g potatoes  Handful of parsley chopped  Handful chives chopped  Salt and pepper  2 eggs, whisked  250g dry breadcrumbs
68

makes 8 fishcakes

While fish is the key ingredient this is a great dish to make with the potatoes that have been dug up straight from the farm. I tend to go for the floury type to create that light fluffy texture.
For the tartare sauce  30g of capers (chopped) 30g of gherkins (chopped) 1 shallot (chopped)  Good pinch of chopped parsley  1 small jar of good mayonnaise Method Poach the fish for 10 minutes and drain. Cook the potatoes until soft and drain well, then leave with the lid off for a minute so that all the excess moisture evaporates. Mix the fish, potatoes, herbs and seasoning together and roughly shape into equal patties and flatten into cakes. Roll in the egg and then in the breadcrumbs. Place into fryer until golden brown and hot. Mix all the ingredients together for the tartar sauce and serve with the fish cakes.

Garry Rosser, The Scallop Shell Fishmonger and Fish & Chip cafe at White Row Farm www.thescallopshell.co.uk

THE COMPLETE NOSE TO TAIL


A Kind of British Cooking
Fergus Henderson Justin Piers Gellatly

Photographs by Jason Lowe SEVEN THINGS I SHOULD MENTION


When having lunch at Sweetings, you sit at a bar behind which a waiter is trapped, you order your smoked eel, they yell to a runner who delivers your eel over your shoulder to the waiter, who then places it under the counter and then in front of you as if they had it all along. Not an entirely practical way of getting your food, but a splendid eating ritual, and a wonderful lunch. Nose to Tail Eating means it would be disingenuous to the animal not to make the most of the whole beast; there is a set of delights, textural and flavoursome, which lie beyond the fillet. This is a book about cooking and eating at home with friends and relations, not replicating restaurant plates of food. Do not be afraid of cooking, as your ingredients will know, and misbehave. Enjoy your cooking and the food will behave; moreover it will pass your pleasure on to those who eat it. The perfect recipe manages to steady and uplift at the same time. One afternoon my flat was broken into. The strange thing is, before I went out I had put a hare in the oven to braise, which filled the flat with delicious gamey smells. I cannot help but think that it must have been very distracting to the burglar, the musk of a braising hare. Unctuous potential: Trotter Gear is your gastronomic friend. Fergus Henderson

69

> flavour nose to tail

BOILED BEEF AND DUMPLINGS


To serve six
2.5kg piece of brisket (you can use silverside for this), unrolled, rinsed a bundle of parsley and thyme 3 sticks of celery, chopped 2 bay leaves 10 black peppercorns 6 onions, peeled 6 carrots, peeled 6 leeks, cleaned DUMPLINGS 100g suet 225g self-raising flour a pinch of sea salt and black pepper 1 beaten egg Boiled beef also goes remarkably well with aoli or green sauce, but if using these, do not include the dumplings or the pickled walnuts. To salt the briskets yourself, make a brine and leave them for 12 days, or you can buy salted brisket from the butcher, in which case make sure its not rolled in. Place your beef into a pot (remember it has to be big enough to accommodate the vegetables as well), cover with water, and add your herb bundle, celery, bay leaves and peppercorns. Bring up to the boil, skim, and reduce to a very gentle simmer, with barely signs of movement in the water, for approximately 4 hours. Prod with a knife to check how the meat feels it should be giving, but not collapsing! After the meat has been simmering for 2 hours put in the onions, after 2 hours the carrots, and after 3 hours the leeks. Keep an eye on your vegetables so they do not overcook you can always remove them. However, this is a dish that demands well-cooked vegetables, no al dente here. When everything is ready, remove the meat and vegetables to a serving dish and keep them warm with a splash of broth to moisten. Make the dumplings as follows. Bring the broth to a rolling simmer. Meanwhile mix the ingredients together, adding some cold water: you are looking for quite a sticky dough. Shape into walnut-sized balls and drop into your simmering broth they should take about 10 minutes to cook and should be like little suet clouds. Serve all together with pickled walnuts and horseradish sauce.

70

> flavour nose to tail

HAIRY TATTIES
To serve six
1.5kg salt ling, soaked in frequent changes of cold water for 12 hours 2 onions 3 bay leaves 2kg floury potatoes, e.g. Maris Piper or King Edward, peeled 6 free-range eggs 250ml milk 250g butter black pepper and possibly sea salt A splendid dish. If you cant find salt ling, use salt cod, which is a fine substitute. Put the ling in a pan of fresh water with the onions and bay leaves, bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer for 14 minutes. Meanwhile place your potatoes in unsalted water, bring to the boil, and cook until soft enough to mash, and hardboil your eggs so that the yolks are soft and slightly giving. Drain the fish, discard the onions and bay leaves, and let it cool until you can handle it, then pull the flesh away from the skin and bones be warned, this is a very sticky exercise. You should now have warm salt fish and drained hot potatoes. Heat the milk and butter and add half to the potatoes and mash. Add the fish flesh, and keep mashing you should start to have a pan of hairy mashed potatoes. If they are too stiff add a little more milk and butter. Check for seasoning; it will certainly need black pepper but depending on the fish you may or may not need salt. Serve a hairy mound with a hardboiled egg, in its shell.

71

> flavour nose to tail

PEA AND PIGS EAR SOUP


to serve four
1.5 litres flavoursome ham stock (preferably the water you boiled a ham in) or a ham bone plus a head of garlic 500g green dried split peas, soaked in water overnight and drained 2 pigs ears (ask your butcher, these should not be hard to obtain; singe off as much hair as you can) 2 whole white onions, peeled sea salt and black pepper vegetable oil for frying This is based on a very dour recipe dried peas, pigs ears and water, the ear giving a certain body to the soup but it is no less delicious for that. If youre using stock, bring it to the boil in a pan with the split peas, ears and onions, and then simmer until the peas are soft and cooked to a thick soupy consistency (approximately 3 hours). If it starts to get too thick add more stock or water. If you have a ham bone, just cover this with water, add your garlic, split peas, ears and onion, and cook the same way as with stock, though it will probably need some skimming. Add more water if it is getting too thick. Season to taste. Remove the onions and, if you have taken that route, the head of garlic and the ham bone. Extract the ears from the soup, rinse them and dry them carefully. Allow them to cool and firm up, then slice very thinly. Heat vegetable oil in a deep frying pan (or deep fryer if you have one) and drop the ears in. Be careful, as even if dry they are likely to spit. Stir to avoid them sticking in one great mass. When crispy remove from the oil and lay on kitchen paper to drain off excess fat. Serve the soup hot. On top of each bowl place a cluster of crispy ear. If you have any boiled ham left up your sleeve you could incorporate small chunks in your soup.

72

> flavour nose to tail

BITTER CHOCOLATE CREAM


To serve six
250g plain chocolate, with at least 70 per cent cocoa solids (we use an El Rey Venezuelan chocolate called Apamate, at 73.5 per cent) 1 gelatine leaf 375ml double cream 125ml full-fat milk 100g caster sugar Cor blimey! Cut the chocolate into small chunks, put it in a large bowl and set aside. Put the gelatine leaf in a separate bowl and cover with cold water. Pour the cream and milk into a saucepan, add the caster sugar and bring slowly to the boil, whisking occasionally. Now go back to your gelatine and squeeze out the water. Once the cream is boiling, take it off the heat, add the squeezed-out gelatine leaf and whisk until dissolved. Then strain the hot cream mixture over the chocolate and whisk until the chocolate has dissolved. You will have a beautiful, glossy chocolate cream. Pour the mixture into 6 individual moulds or one large serving dish and leave in the fridge for 4-6 hours, until set. Serve with hazelnut biscuits and teasoaked prunes, or with cherries when in season.

The Complete Nose to Tail


A Kind of British Cooking By Fergus Henderson and Justin Piers Gellatly, Bloomsbury, 30 Foodie hero Fergus Henderson is a pioneer of nose-to-tail cooking. For the first time all his recipes have been brought together in one stunning and comprehensive compendium, which showcases his enormous talent. This is British cooking at its best. Fergus set out his stall when he opened St. John in 1995, now one of the worlds most admired restaurants. His Nose To Tail books are full of exhilarating recipes for dishes that combine high sophistication with peasant thriftiness. Now the books are joined together in a compendious volume, The Complete Nose To Tail, with a dozen new recipes on top of 250 existing ones and more brilliant photography from Jason Lowe.
73

Mitch Tonks runs RockFish Grill & Seafood Market in Clifton, Bristol. He is an award-winning chef, restaurateur and food writer and has two other seafood restaurants in Dartmouth.

Heres the ca ch
Warming Food with a hint of Summer
Theres nothing like a good, warming, lightly spiced tagine. A tagine is actually a type of earthenware pot from Morocco that the dish is cooked in, so recipes vary hugely, though you can be sure theyll feature a warming, heady spice mix including some wonderful aromatics: cinnamon, saffron, chilli, ginger, cumin and coriander. The pot and its contents will sit and cook slowly at low temperatures traditionally resulting in tender meat in a really tasty sauce. Im using fish here so the tenderising isnt necessary and you get a slightly lighter, fresher zing to the spicy flavours.

How to... cook fish on a budget

With sustainable fishing top of the agenda, flavour columnist and seafood specialist Mitch Tonks cooks up a storm with his seasonal fish of choice...

to keep the heat sealed in, spending an afternoon playing rudimentary games of rounders with the kids (and big kids) and then having this as a reward. I like to buy Norwegian cold water shell-on prawns and peel them myself, I think the flavour is better; you can also leave 6 or 8 in the shell to add to the look of the dish. This also uses MSC Norwegian cod which Im a big supporter of since my travels out to Norway to see the fishing methods used and find out about the stocks there is so much good news to be had about cod. Look forward to those cool sunny winter days and enjoy!

Mitch Tonks. RockFish Grill & Seafood Market Fishmonger, food writer, restaurateur www.rockfishgrill.co.uk www.mitchtonks.co.uk www.twitter.com/rockfishgrill
74

This is one of those dishes that I always seem to go for on the milder winter days when the sun is out and is low in the sky and I really want to sit outside and eat. Weve cooked this on the beach before and then just buried the pot in the sand

> flavour mitch tonks

Cod and Prawn Tagine with Olives and Lemon serves 4


Ingredients  2 fillets of line-caught Norwegian cod, pin-boned and cut into large chunks  2" fresh ginger root, peeled and crushed  1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed  1 small onion, finely chopped  Juice 1 lemon  1 carrot peeled and sliced  1 potato, peeled and boiled until soft  30 Norwegian cold water peeled prawns see my note left  Small handful of chopped coriander  4 large ripe tomatoes roughly chopped or 2 tinned tomatoes  1 tsp ras-el hanout spice mix  Pinch saffron  1 tbsp ground cumin METHOD 1. Gently fry the onion, garlic and ginger for five minutes then add the chilli, carrot and tomatoes and simmer gently for 10 minutes until the carrot is softened. Add the spices and saffron and cook for a further 3-4 minutes. Then add the prawns and the cooked potatoes, then the fish and enough water to just cover it. 2. Simmer gently for a further 6-7 minutes, then add the olives and season to taste with salt and lemon juice. Finally stir in a little coriander and sprinkle the rest over the top, serve family style.  1 mild chilli finely sliced  20 green olives  Salt to season  Olive oil 3. Ras-el hanout is a Moroccan spice mix made from any number of spices that is readily available in supermarkets nowadays, but if you fancy making your own, heres a simple version that works well. 4. Simply grind the following spices together. They can then be stored in an airtight container. 5. 1 tbsp ground allspice, 1 tbsp ground coriander, 2 tbsp paprika, 1 tbsp turmeric, 2 tsp ground cassia, 1 tsp ground cardamom, 1 tsp chilli flakes.

75

> flavour bells diner

Good food and a good night was had by Jennie Clark as she visited one of Bristols favourite restaurants...

Bells Diner
C
hef Chris Wicks food philosophy for the restaurant is all about earthy flavours and big combinations. Accordingly, we were welcomed to Bells Diner with soft and sticky marmite breadsticks and mushroom popcorn in a plant pot, which a big group next to us had served up in a giant vintage tin. The relaxed, shabby-chic style (now much imitated) is a reference to the restaurants past as a student neighbourhood bistro in the late 70s. A veritable wall of wines towers over the small dining room, with flour bags and milling contraptions laid around the windowsills a reminder of the buildings pre-restaurant history, and long association with food. The importance of innovation here extends to the drinks menu and Bells Diners sommelier recommendations. We had the most amazing red sparkling aperitif called Cerdon Bugey (43), an off-sweet, deep cherry fizz from a Beaujolais grape it far outstrips any comparison with the beloved Kir Royale. One of my favourite things about the menu is the way the ingredients of each dish are simply listed, without the affectations or preconceptions more detail can sometimes inspire. Its a brief list plain and bold, and somehow reassuring the decisions are not all yours tonight. The Hereford snail starter (9.50) arrived in a small copper saucepan. The list of accompaniments parsley, egg yolk, mushroom quinoa and turnip really gives you no idea how this will be cooked or presented, simply offering
76

certainty that this is something you want to eat. The sauce was thick and garlic-laden, mingling with the bursting yolk and bright green parsley foam. We also sampled the grilled quail with apricot, chamomile, grape and radish (9.50) and the Lyme Bay scallops, cauliflower, grapefruit and seaweed (10.50). Each dish centres around a powerful key ingredient, but I love that every individual element is important, carefully juxtaposed to maximum and often pleasantly surprising effect. For the main course I chose the salt marsh lamb, sweetbread, kidney, Borlotti bean, courgette, basil and artichoke (17.50). It wasnt the most coherent of dishes, but rather an exploration of texture and flavour, brought together with an umami-rich sauce. Every item was immaculately treated impossibly soft lamb, golden sweetbreads, crunchy courgette and the most potent micro basil you could imagine. The wood pigeon, grelot onions, leeks, girolles and smoked onion consomm (16.50) was presented under a dome of smoke, whisked away at the table for atmospheric and sensory effect. In the post-Heston era I think its easy for the chef and the diner to take this kind of embellishment for granted. But whats important at Bells Diner is that the dishes arent sold on gimmicks its all about the ingredients. Another main of Lyme Bay brill was unusually matched with knobbly Jerusalem artichoke crisps, salsify,

and wild mushroom. It makes you realise how relatively unusual it still is to see such a fish served without the habitual lemon and butter-based sauce, and how beautifully it can work. The courses were punctuated throughout with little appetisers and palate-cleansers another chance to see the chefs personality, and adding that invaluable little bit extra to the dining experience. We were treated to canaps, an intriguing shot of fennel lemonade and white peach pure with elderflower foam and lime powder. The dessert selection included a violet souffl, with strawberry sorbet and white chocolate poured into it at the table (7.50), and a toasted hay custard tart with beer, coffee and walnuts (7.50). I went for the light and sweet raspberries, peach, crme frache and amaretti (6.50). Bells Diner is probably Bristols bestknown restaurant, within and outside the city an accolade which many other eateries would struggle to bear. la mode, its showcasing modern cooking methods, carefully chosen local ingredients and innovative flavour combinations. But its also just a lovely local restaurant where you can guarantee good food, and a good night.

Bells Diner 1-3 York Road Montpelier Bristol BS6 5QB Call 0117 924 0357 Visit www.bellsdiner.com

I love that every individual element is important, carefully juxtaposed to maximum and often pleasantly surprising effect

A stunning location, with food to match

A short distance from the city centre, leave the real world behind...

Open for breakfast, lunch & dinner seven days a week. The Hare Hounds, Lansdown Road, Bath BA1 5TJ www.hareandhoundsbath.com reservations@hareandhoundsbath.com Tel 01225 428682

fat of e

Land

If you fall into the category of those who cook turkey just because its Christmas, you might like to consider some other fabulous centrepieces for your annual family feast...

79

> flavour fat of the land

Better Food Company


Want a really local Christmas? No one does it quite like Bristols Better Food Company
With organic veg from The Community Farm in Chew Magna and turkeys reared by BFCs MD Phil Haughton, the whole lot goes from plot to plate in under 10 miles. No nasties not one just good, honest, fair and brought to you by actual people in wellies, who get up early and love the great outdoors.

Better Food Shop and Caf The Proving House, Sevier Street St Werburghs, Bristol BS2 9QS Call: 0117 935 1725

Email admin@betterfood.co.uk

www.betterfood.co.uk

Better Food Deli and Food Hall 94 Whiteladies Road Clifton, Bristol BS8 2QX Call: 0117 946 6957

Kitchen Garden
Award-winning jams and preserves
Flavour has teamed up with Kitchen Garden to offer suggestions of what condiments should go with what meat...
Turkey: Cranberry Sauce for roast turkey or Fig and Plum Relish or Christmas Chutney with cold turkey Beef: Tewkesbury Mustard or Horseradish Sauce with roast beef or steaks. Spiced Tomato and Apple Chutney with sliced cold beef Goose: Red Wine Jelly with Herbs or Cranberry Sauce Game: particularly venison or pheasant: Blackberry Vinegar to marinade the meat or use in a sauce. Also Red Wine Jelly with Herbs.

Gammon: Port and Redcurrant Sauce for roast gammon or Apricot Chutney or Sweet Plum and Date Chutney with cold, sliced gammon/ham

Lamb: Apple Jelly with Mint or Redcurrant Jelly with roast lamb. Gooseberry Chutney with lamb burgers

Call 01453 759612 www.KitchenGardenPreserves.co.uk


80

> flavour fat of the land

Martins Meats
Martins Meats specialise in locally produced beef, pork and lamb, dry matured on the bone as well as locally farmed poultry and game in season.

Dike & Son


From small beginnings in 1851 as a village bakery, Dike & Son has grown to become the largest independent superstore in the South West of England. Still family-owned, the store now offers shelf space to more than 120 growers, makers and bakers from across the region, with most of them based in Dorset and Somerset. Encouraging small producers to develop their businesses is an important part of Dikes ethos in supporting the local economy and promoting sustainability; not least because it means their customers can enjoy a huge variety of fresh, good quality, locally made food. They are proud to stock a wide range of meat, game and poultry, sourced right here in the West Country.In addition, they are thrilled to be giving space to two award-winning local farms who are supplying their outdoor-bred, local meats. The Award-Winning Langton Arms with their minimum 21-day matured beef, and The Uncommon Pig with their rare breed, freerange Berkshire pork from just up the road in Stour Provost. The beef is dry-aged for a minimum of 28 days, resulting in a finer flavour and texture. Cattle come from their own farms or from other farms in the Cotswolds. Breeds include Longhorn, belted Galloways and Herefords. They are known locally for their Gloucester Old Spot pork and Cotswold lamb, again from their own farms or sourced locally.

THE LANGTON ARMS BUTCHERY


The Langton Arms has a passion for food that is local, high quality and from farms that care about animal welfare. Using their own beef from Rawston Farm or one of the other farms in the Tarrant Valley, they supply beef that has been hung for a minimum of 21 days delivering a fuller flavour and bags of tenderness. The Tarrant Valley has excellent growing grassland that rears some of the best beef in the country. And the Langton Arms makes the most of this natural habitat, creating their own sausages from venison to boerewors, which are tried and tested in the restaurant. Meat is sold at Dike and Sons in Stalbridge, or can be ordered direct from The Langton Arms.

They also supply locally reared poultry and game in season shot on local estates. An extremely reactive company, Martins Meats can supply any meat cut to customers specification. Pig roasts can be supplied and a whole range of barbecue products including sausages and burgers are also available.

Dike & Son Ring Street, Stalbridge Dorset DT10 2NB Call: 01963 362204 Visit: www.welovedorsetfood.co.uk

Martins Meats Unit 5, Orchard Industrial Est Toddington, Cheltenham GL54 5EB Call: 01242 621493 Visit: www.martinsmeats.com

THE LANGTON ARMS BUTCHERY

Tarrant Monkton, Blandford Dorset DT11 8RX Call: 01258 830225 Visit: www.thelangtonarms.co.uk
81

> flavour fat of the land

Hartley Farm
Field to farm gate to plate
Having recently won multiple Taste of the West Food Awards for its quality produce and creative cooking and being shortlisted for the National FARMA retail awards for its commitment to homegrown and locally sourced produce, the expanding kitchen, the butchers and shop at Hartley Farm are attracting foodies, cooks and those seeking local produce with provenance.

Goodmans Geese
If you fall into the category of those who cook turkey just because its Christmas, you might like to consider some other fabulous centrepieces for your annual family feast... The goose has been eaten across Europe for thousands of years. Easy to rear and in season from Michaelmas, it makes the perfect Christmas option.

Bridport Gourmet Pies


Bridport Gourmet Pies, founded in 2000 is a producer of award-winning pies. They have discovered the wealth of fresh local produce in Dorset, and these compliment their ideals of producing the highest quality.

For me its all about respecting the land and raising our animals slowly, extensively and kindly, outdoors in plenty of space, said manager Tom Bowles. The on-farm butchery will be taking orders from November for Christmas meats including Cotswold Turkeys and their own Aberdeen Angus beef and Gloucester Old Spot pork among other superb quality meat. You can also try before you buy at their Taste of Christmas producers event on November 24 and 25.

This guaranties a delicious, wholesome and handmade taste. They pride themselves in saying that their pies are completely local, while great care and attention is taken to ensure the products are of a high standard, from training the bakers to cook to perfection and to making sure the drivers hand over only the finest pies to customers.

What initially started out as a hobby quickly developed into an award-winning family business. Judy Goodman elaborates: It began in 1981 when my mother-in-law complained that she couldnt source any geese for Christmas. By 1982 I had 26 goslings on the lawn. The farm is now the home to 4300 geese and 4200 turkeys.
Goodmans Geese Walsgrove Farm, Great Witley Worcestershire WR6 6JJ Call: 01299 896272 Visit: www.goodmansgeese.co.uk
82

Hartley Farm Winsley, Bradford on Avon Wiltshire BA15 2JB Call: 01225 864948 Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk

Bridport Gourmet Pies Gore Cross Business Park, Bridport Dorset DT6 3UX Call: 01308 420244 Visit: www.dorset-pies.co.uk

> flavour fat of the land

Allington Farm Shop


The in-house butchery at Allington Farm Shop offers all cuts of pork, beef and lamb as well as local freerange chickens, local seasonal game, dry-cured bacon, gammon joints and homemade sausages and faggots.

Higher Hacknell Farm


Higher Hacknell Farm, pioneers of the trade, have been established as organic farmers since the 1980s, winning countless awards along the way.

Kitchen Garden Foods


Kitchen Garden Foods have been making top-quality jams, chutneys, marmalades and condiments under the Kitchen Garden label since 1989 when Barbara Moinet cooked up her first batch of blackberry and apple Jam in the kitchen of her Gloucestershire cottage.

Much of the meat is reared on the farm at Allington, all of it hung on the carcass with traditional butchery methods employed. Their homereared turkeys are naturally matured in large open-fronted barns on deep straw bedding. Turkeys are dry plucked, hand-finished and then hung for at least seven days in cold rooms. This process preserves the natural texture and enhances the superior flavour of the bird. Orders are now being taken for Christmas. As well as turkeys, Allington Farm Shop specialises in local, free-range cockerels, chickens, geese ducks and home-cooked hams.

The small team at the farm care about what they do, producing the finest beef, lamb, pork and poultry in the region. With a butchery on site, the produce is expertly cared for from field to plate.

Now run by Barbara with her husband Robin and their 20-strong team, the company continues to grow, supplying its award-winning preserves to independent farm shops, delis, hamper companies and garden centres throughout the UK and overseas.

Ordering is just like going to your friendly local butcher, whether online or by phone. Always pleased to offer advice about the full range of cuts, how to use them and how to make the most of the produce, Higher Hacknell Farm is a butchery with a personal touch. Now taking orders for Christmas, Higher Hacknell Farm deliver meat throughout the country by mail order every week.

Allington Farm Shop Allington Bar Farm Chippenham SN14 6LJ Call: 01249 658112 Visit: www.allingtonfarmshop.co.uk

Kitchen Garden Foods Unit 15 Salmon Springs Trading Estate Cheltenham Road, Stroud GL6 6NU Call: 01453 759612 www.kitchengardenpreserves.co.uk

Higher Hacknell Farm Burrington, Umberleigh, Devon EX37 9LX Call: 01769 560909 Email: info@higherhacknell.co.uk Visit: www.higherhacknell.co.uk
83

> flavour susy atkins

Discovering Flavours with Susy Atkins


A
ward-winning wine writer and Saturday Kitchen presenter, Susy Atkins, hosted an entertaining evening at Great Western Wine recently, talking and tasting Flavours! Susy Atkins is one of the best-known wine writers in the UK. Well known for her regular appearances on BBC1s Saturday Kitchen, and her weekly column for the Sunday Telegraph Stella magazine; she has also just won the Food and Travel Magazines inaugural readers award for best drinks book, for her new release Flavours. Its all about how to make your own drinks, creating fresh, seasonal drinks from the wonderful fruit, herbs and hedgerow harvests that we find around us every day. From her childrens favourite lavender lemonade, via homemade masala chai, Susys recipes (all home tested) move to the kick of red chilli sherry, and her personal favourite, damson gin. Susy spent a year researching all sorts of drinks and enduring the chaos of a kitchen full of bubbling demi-johns, smelly boiling nettles and exploding Kilner jars to work out the very best recipes for the book. Guests on the evening were treated to some of Susys home made brews, including an end of summer, sublimely refreshing elderflower gin, perfect as an

By Angela Mount

aperitif mixed with Cava, and her ideal winter warmer, cinnamon schnapps. Enjoying wine is all about enjoying the enormous variety of aromas, tastes and textures in wine, and Susy Atkins presented the audience with wines, which clearly showed some of the key, but diverse, characteristics of different grape varieties. One taster commented: When you smell or taste a wine, it reminds you of something, which you cannot pinpoint. Susy can translate those aromas and flavours, so that I can identify it, and recognise whether it was lime, peach or mocha!

Angela Mount is a wine expert, writer and presenter. Probably best known for having her taste buds insured for 10m by her former employers Somerfield, she is passionate about helping wine drinkers discover new and exciting wines. She also writes and presents events about wine and food matching, judges at all the major UK wine competitions and chairs the judging panels for the Bristol and also the Bath Good food Awards.
84

> flavour susy atkins

First up was a focus on fresh, citrussy, tropical fruit character Yealands Sauvignon blanc, a top-notch Marlborough Sauvignon, with a vibrant character, and a tangerine/citrus edge, well-matched to Asian fusion food, as the wine perfectly enhances any dish with lemongrass and Thai spices, and also Susys particular recommendation, Parmigiano melanzane, an Italian cheese and aubergine dish. Next on the list, was a wine to represent a feast of rich, vibrant, spicy, kiwi and melon aromas and flavours Lawsons Gewurztraminer another New Zealand wine, showing the wealth and variety of styles beyond Sauvignon Blanc. This was a cornucopia of delight, bursting with tangerine, mint, angelica and candied fruit flavours, but with a delightfully dry, white pepper finish utterly delightful, and the perfect wine for Indian dishes, and cured, sweet meats and pts. The exploration of white wines continued with a wine which represented ripe peach, floral, juicy characters. Roll up the Bogle Viognier from Sacramento in California. Viognier is grown extensively in the Rhone and southern France, but is now making its name as a top white grape variety

choice across the world. This one is brimming with peach, apricot, honeysuckle, gently floral, and refreshing fruit, and with its wafting aromas and Mediterranean fruit flavours, its a perfect match to Middle Eastern dishes, tagines, Korean food and roast pork with apple sauce! The tasting then moved on to red wines, with Susy demonstrating the difference in characteristics between them. A curveball to start with, as a Cabernet/Merlot/ Malbec blend from the deep Patagonian south of Argentina, Intimo Tinto, was the benchmark for rich blackcurrant, mint and toasty oak character... Lots of spice, dark chocolate and black pepper. Look no further for the perfect wine for peppered steak. Next up, a supremely, elegant and stylish Portuguese red, representing blackberry, and sweet vanilla spice; many Spanish wines fit the bill here, but the Crasto 2010

was sublime, with its seamless core of blackberry and hedgerow fruit flavours, and balanced tannins sheer class and elegance. For food matches, look no further than roast and spiced lamb, and winter stews. Finally, the tasting moved to one of the wines that could take on the heat of Indian food! And I mean chilli heat! Falernia Carmenere, from central Chile, is all of that encompassing a deep, enveloping sweetly rich character, that we all dream about, and a wine that perfectly represents, the savoury, spicy, yet sweet place in the spectrum of wine styles. With clove, black cherry, soy sauce and cloves in the aromas, Susys top recommendation is for lamb curry! Also great with winter stews, and grilled steak. A fascinating tasting and insight into the world of flavours!

85

> flavour whats on

Cornwall Food & Drink Live!


For those of us who love a Cornish pasty or pint of Cornwalls Tribute ale, this new festival is taking Cornwalls celebrated local produce and innovative food and drink producers to those living and visiting Bristol over the weekend of November 3 and 4. The festival will be held at Brunels Old Stations, a beautiful, original passenger building adjacent to Bristol Temple Meads. Two seafood superstars, two michelinstarred chef Nathan Outlaw from Cornwall and Mitch Tonks from Bristol will come together to host a Seafood special event on the 4th. And a host of other masterclasses, tastings, shanty singers and childrens activities will take place throughout the weekend, in addition to many great opportunities to taste and buy from the countys top food and drink producers just in time for Christmas. Following the success of the Cornwall Food & Drink Festival in Truro, Cornwall Food & Drink LIVE! promises to be well worth a visit for all those in the Bath and Bristol area who love the taste of Cornwall!

www.cornwallfoodanddrink.co.uk

Whats going on
Learn to eat healthily get Vegucated in Bristol!
Visitors to this free event will not only get a free pizza and two stand-up comedians they will also have a chance to get Vegucated on their eating habits, with two free screenings in November for this life-altering documentary. Vegucated depicts, lightheartedly, three New Yorkers who go vegan for six weeks. They gain a whole new perspective of their meat and dairy intake and learn some of the benefits of a plant-based lifestyle. November 1 and 6, 6:30 10 pm Polish Club, 50 St Pauls Rd, Clifton, Bristol BS8 1LP FREE admission, EVERYONE WELCOME Includes: FREE PIZZAS and snacks, Stand-Up Comedy, Raffle, Discussion. Comedians include Chris Stokes, Andrew ONeill and Dominic Berry All food served is 100 per cent plant-based. To reserve places, visit the website: vegucatebristol.eventbrite.co.uk/ (1 November) vegucatebristol2.eventbrite.co.uk/ (6 November) Email alanphenyl@hotmail.com

86

> flavour whats on

Dartmouth Food Festival


Of the many food festivals in the West Country calendar Dartmouth is one that stands out as being intimate, welcoming, sincere and able to punch way above its weight. No big sponsors, run by volunteers, free to enter and family friendly; its organised rather like a village fete, but one which attracts big names in the food world, a reputation to rival many much bigger festivals, loyal exhibitors and visitors from across the country. This year some top names will help Dartmouth Food Festival celebrate its 10th birthday at the end of October including Mitch Tonks, Mark Hix, Henry Dimbleby, Matthew Fort. Three days of demos, tastings and much more run from October 2628. Visit www.dartmouthfoodfestival.com Facebook DartmouthFoodFestival Twitter @DartFoodFest

Baths Pulteney Weir Market Launches

It aims to be the best market in the West Baths Pulteney Weir Market started last week as part of an ongoing project to promote and improve the riversides potential for residents and tourists alike. It will now be held every Sunday from 10am to 4pm along the river between Pulteney Bridge and North Parade Bridge. Branded The Best of the West, it will be a quality market with up to 50 stalls selling an eclectic mix of artisan food and drink, great art, novel collectables and some of the very best crafts from Gloucestershire, Somerset, Wiltshire and Bristol. Visit www.pulteneyweirmarket.co.uk

HARTLEY FARM, Shop & Caf


SHOWCASING A TASTE OF XMAS CHRISTMAS FAIR ON NOVEMBER 24 AND 25
Free festive food and drink tasting event with local producers.
The free tasting event will run on Saturday November 24 and Sunday November 25 from 10am-4pm on both days, and products available for sampling will range from locally produced cider, wines and ales to breads, preserves, condiments and many more Christmas treats to tempt and excite the taste buds. Local producers taking part include winemakers Quoins, cidermakers Honey & Daughter, ale from Hartley Farm-based microbrewery Willy Good Ale, Bradford on Avon Fudge and Jos Pantry Christmas Puddings. Therell also be marmalade from Avonfield Cottage, preserves from In a Pickle and the Wilts Chilli Farm, oils from Fussels and ice cream from Marshfield Farm. In addition to the weekend food fair, Hartley Farm is also hosting a free one-day craft market on Saturday, December 1 from 10-4pm where a range of door and table decorations, arty gifts and festive flowers will be available to buy.

Winsley, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 2JB Call 01225 864948 Visit www.hartley-farm.co.uk


87

> flavour the old bell

The Old Bell


Hotel & Restaurant
Laura Roberts took to Malmesbury and the oldest hotel in the UK, to find that some things really do just get better with age...

earing whispers about The Old Bell supposedly being haunted prior to my stay, I have to admit I was a touch on the nervous side on arrival. Reputed to be the oldest purpose-built hotel in the UK (trading since 1220!) its no wonder there have been many reported ghostly goings on... The hotel is an impressive sight, set against the dramatic backdrop of Malmesbury Abbey, and covered in a thick blanket of ivy and foliage. On being shown to our room, I was staggered to find it not far off the size of my flat. It encompassed quintessential traditional comfort in the shape of squashy sofas and a cabinet full of antique ornaments, but with a modern twist of a flatscreen television and coffee maker. The large stone window overlooked the Abbey grounds on one side and the hotel gardens on the other, while the bathroom was spacious and light. After a wander around Malmesbury, my mother and I were tempted back to the hotel and into one of the snug and inviting lounges to enjoy a predinner drink and flick through one of the many glossy magazines strewn on the nearby coffee tables. When we finally dragged ourselves to dinner (such a chore as you can imagine) we were greeted to a dining room of beautifully laid tables. A few glasses of crisp Prosecco, honey spiced nuts, olives and homemade feta and sundried tomato bread proved a promising start to our dining experience. Add to this a goats cheese mousse compliments of the chef, flecked with balsamic vinegar and we were more than excited for what the rest of the evening might hold. For somebody who

sometimes finds goats cheese slightly overbearing, the mousse was light but still packed a distinctive cheesy punch. While I took in the grand surroundings, I couldnt help but notice the large portrait of the lady in grey (the ghost supposed to haunt the hotel) out of the corner of my eye, and made a mental note to keep a look out for her later on... Being the carnivore I am, I had to try the oak-smoked Tim Johnsons beef, ratte potato mousse, soy dressing and pickled girolles. The beef was served carpacciostyle, the smoky and intense flavour setting my taste buds tingling. My mum, with more of a delicate palate, enjoyed a rich and full flavoured tomato soup. Our main meals soon followed; poached sea bass, crab ravioli and Champagne buerre blanc for my mother and slowcooked belly of Cameron Naughtons pork, spiced cheek, truffled potato pure and Sauternes poached apples for me. The sea bass was delicate and flavoursome (I could hear pleasing murmurs from my mother and am sure the word heavenly was even used), her only complaint being that the ravioli was slightly overdone. My pork belly shredded away into succulent flecks of meaty goodness, the cheek meltingly tender and the truffled potato pure deliciously rich yet light at the same time. The final flourish of chocolate mousse, poached blackberries and pistachio ice cream and a plum and almond tart tartin with a glass of fruity and sweet dessert wine, rounded off a very enjoyable evening. The service was attentive and discreet, with the perfect amount of time between

courses to enjoy a relaxed and truly memorable dining experience. The staff are friendly and informative and really cannot do enough to help you. A three-course fine dining meal sits at 42.50, which really is worth every penny. For those looking for less extravagance, The Lorings Brasserie serves traditional favourites such as Scotch egg and chutney, haddock and chips, braised beef, apple and blackberry crumble and Eton mess sundae. After a well-rested night on possibly the comfiest pillows I have ever had the pleasure of laying my head upon, we headed back to the dining room to enjoy the final part of our stay: breakfast. Perfect poached eggs, crispy bacon and moist field mushrooms were just a few highlights of the cooked breakfast we were treated to. With cereals, porridge, fruit and pastries also on offer, not for the first time during our stay, we were left feeling fit to burst. The Old Bell really is a lovely place to stay for a luxurious treat, and although the hotel is beautiful, the food really was the stand out performance during the stay for me. With the high standard of the food, service and accommodation, its no surprise that even the ghosts have decided to stick around...

The Old Bell Hotel & Restaurant Abbey Row, Malmesbury Wilts SN16 0BW Call 01666 822344 Visit www.oldbellhotel.co.uk

88

My pork belly shredded away into succulent flecks of meaty goodness, the cheek meltingly tender and the truffled potato pure deliciously rich yet light at the same time.

Photography by Christopher Cornwell 89

Sub 13 celebrates a sparkling relationship with Champagne Perrier-Jout.


Sub 13s relationship with Perrier-Jout began over a year ago when designer Shaun Clarkson created a space that echoed the art nouveau theme inherent to Perrier-Jout, using the iconic Belle Epoque oral anemones designed by Emile Galle in 1902.
e result is a fresh, sumptuously decorated lounge, with custom-made white leather seating, a unique ceiling design featuring the famous Belle Epoque anemones, carpeting and paintwork in the house colours. e garden, with its box-hedges entwined with pea-lights in green and white, mixture of large and small umbrellas, lovely cushions in the summer and heating for the colder months is the perfect place to sip Champagne or a Champagne cocktail. Reservations in the Perrier-Jout Lounge have been really popular, says manager Tim Whelehan In fact we have been booked every Saturday since March!. Popular for special occasions, a booking includes two bottles of Perrier-Jout Grand Brut, and your own bar access to avoid the hustle of the main room during busy periods. It has been a vintage year for Sub 13 too, winning the Bath Life Award for best Cocktail Bar in February this year. We have had the best year on record, and were proud to be associated with such an iconic brand as Perrier-Jout, says owner Alex Miller. And it has de nitely bene tted our PJ sales, which are up by more than 15%, says his business partner Dan Perry. Founded in 1811 by Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and Rose Adlaide Jout, Perrier-Jout has over 200 years of heritage. Over the centuries, Perrier-Jout has acquired a number of notable enthusiasts, including Queen Victoria, who appointed Perrier-Jout as the o cial supplier to the Crown, setting a trend that was emulated across the courts of Europe. Grace Kellys favourite Champagne was the delicious Belle Epoque Ros, while Coco Chanel and Oscar Wilde also named Perrier-Jout as their champagne of choice. Wilde famously remarked that pleasure without Champagne is purely arti cial.

Pleasure without champagne

Champagne is made from blends of the white grape Chardonnay and the black Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Styles that favour black grapes tend to be more robust; whilst those like Perrier-Jout, that favour Chardonnay, tend to be lighter and more oral. As it happens, Perrier-Jout own the best Chardonnay-growing vineyards in the Cte de Blancs, in Cramant and Avize. Both have the coveted Grand Cru status, and are ideally situated halfway up the hillside and facing south-east, exposing them to the ripening sun. It is the wines from these vineyards that underpin the house style, showing a richness rarely experience within other Chardonnay-dominated blends. Indeed Perrier-Jouts prestige Belle poque Blanc de Blancs, made from

100% Chardonnay, has an opulence more reminiscent of a good Mersault. Perrier-Jouts unique style has been maintained by just seven cellar masters in their 200 year history, and the current custodian of their secrets, Herv Deschamps uses wines from the di erent vineyards to create the ve blends, maintaining the unique heritage and style of each. PerrierJout is the only champagne house to o er the rst tailor-made cuve in history, Perrier-Jouts By and For. A mere one hundred people have the opportunity to purchase the experience to work with Herv to create a blend that is made to measure, using the nest Blanc de Blancs wines from the fabulous 2000 vintage.

Perrier-Jout maintains an extensive cellar, with every great vintage going back to 1825, the oldest known Champagne in the world. For more information about Champagne Perrier -Jout, visit www.perrier-jouet.com Sub 13 is open from 5pm until midnight Monday to ursday, until 2am on Fridays and 3am on Saturdays. eir famous cocktails are available two-for-one until 8pm every day. Bookings for the PerrierJout Champagne lounge, or the vaults are taken any day, call the bar or visit the website for details or to book.

4 Edgar Buildings, Bath, BA1 2EE T: 01225 466667 E: drinks@sub13.net www.sub13.net

is purely artificial

Oscar Wilde

> flavour charlton house

Charlie Lyon steers well clear of the Den and heads instead to Duncan Bannatynes Somerset spa, to find out if the entrepreneur has invested wisely...

Charlton House
Spa Hotel
Even better, the spa is Moroccanthemed, and the sand-coloured finish, low, colourful cushions and glints of gold do a marvellous job of whisking me away from any Western worries I may have (lack of Gulf sun meaning that my skin is now practically translucent; too much West Country cider meaning my bikini is much tighter than it should be). And whats more, the hydrotherapy pool, outdoor Jacuzzi, sauna and other spa delights are included in your hotel stay. I enjoy working up an appetite for dinner fighting against various water jets that propel me wildly around the pool. As it happens, my fear of not being hungry enough for my three-course meal was unwarranted. The menu at Charlton House (27.95 for a two-course dinner, 13.95 for a two-course lunch, although this will be included in your 40 day package) is punching at fine dining. My starter of veloute of baby spinach, confit chicken and quails egg is homely and warming, while Mothers golden, candy and red beets with Jerusalem artichokes and goats curd is pretty to look at and packs a flavoursome punch. We spend ages debating what the slightly sweet, slightly sour brown powder thats livening up the goats curd is. Pecan crumble, informs the waitress. Marvellous! Unfortunately, the similar game I play with my main trying to guess the shiver-giving sour red berries is not for the fainthearted. But theyre easily swept aside as I devour the

hat an absolute treat: the chance to review a Dragons enterprise (or at least a cog in it) without the fear of being interrogated about my observations or having to justify my opinions. Although I admire Paphitis, Meaden and co, and watch Dragons Den with masochistic glee, nothing terrifies me more than the thought of meeting one of them in the flesh. So its with delight I accepted the offer of reviewing a Bannatyne Hotel, safe in the knowledge Duncan is resting in Darlington following a heart scare, ie far, far away from Charlton House Spa Hotel, his fourth hotel located next to picturesque Shepton Mallet in Somerset. Renowned for its good-value spa days, I invite along Mother, who thinks its quite extraordinary to be whisked off to such luxury on a rainy October evening. As soon as we arrive, she celebrates by heading straight to the spa for a Gelish nail treatment in hot rod red. Im not sure its quite the look suited for this shabby-chic hotel whose interior design, a lot of which was realised by previous owner, Mulberry-founder Roger Saul, consists of heavily slubbed silk wallpaper, dark distressed wood, sheepskin tiebacks, and highlights of leather everywhere you turn. For me, its beautiful, and having just moved back from Dubai, Im delighted by the Arabic touches that take this hotels style from stuffy English country to Middle Eastern elegance.

rampantly rich dish of Salisbury Plain venison and red cabbage. Juicy, soft, flavoursome: absolutely delish. Mothers been too quick with her fillet of Stokes Marsh beef, Jacobs Ladder pie, fondant potato and roasted roots for me to try, but those hot rod red nails are flashing up and down as she wildly gesticulates with murmurs of mmmmmm, which I translate as: This is really rather tasty. While the cheeseboard lacks lustre (theyre locally sourced you want them to be good) the homemade banana ice cream brings the last ray of sunshine to our day and we slink back to our room, looking forward to another invigorating dip the next morning before breakfast. Reviews since Bannatynes takeover of Charlton House two-and-a-half years ago have been mixed. But as I arrive it seems previous criticism has been duly noted and now, not only is the service of Stateside quality, our room feels lived in and the breakfast spread is ample. Which is why, Duncan, I have to say: I like your business. Im in.

Charlton House Shepton Mallet Nr Glastonbury Somerset BA4 4PR Call 01749 342008 Visit www.bannatyne.co.uk/hotel/ charltonhouse

92

We spend ages debating what the slightly sweet, slightly sour brown powder thats livening up the goats curd is. Pecan crumble informs the waitress. Marvellous!

> flavour simon green

Remember Mrs Beeton? What about Antonin Careme?


By Simon Green The Kitchen Shrink
Three years before the birth of Mrs Beeton in 1836 the advocator of haute cuisine slipped his mortal coil. Antonin Careme, who is arguably the first celebrity chef, was born in 1784. A child from poverty and the offspring of a broken marriage, he rose to high status in the courts of the Paris nobility and cooked for the heads of state in Europe. He took years to hone his craft and worked all hours to achieve his goals and in turn he paved the way for the plethora of better restaurants we have today. Antonin started work in the soup kitchens and chop houses of Paris in the late 18th century, before being taken in by a famed pattisier called Sylvain Bailly who willingly passed his knowledge on to the aspiring chef. These soup kitchens were the forerunners of what we deem as restaurants presently; in fact, the word restaurant derives from the French restaurer to restore and these establishments restored the health
94

of the poor and weary in the Ille de Paris with simple, yet nutritious food. Antonins greatness was cut short however, as he died in his 40s due to years of carbon monoxide poisoning from the coal burnt in the unventilated cellar kitchens of Paris, but his reputation continues to this day and most of us will have been touched by his presence; Probably not for the magnificent pice monte which were elaborate pastry constructions used as centrepieces for the table, but the very fact that he introduced the menu as we know it, transforming service la Francaise when all dishes are served at once to service a la Russe when dishes are served sequentially. 150 years later, their common goal of good food is as prevailing today as it was then. They would have bought local and Mother Nature would have dictated what they could use, much

in the same way as we hopefully have come full circle presently. Both were massively aware of good housekeeping and this is a poignant sentiment in these uncertain financial times. With austerity measures prevalent and those in government seemingly unable to agree a unified path to reassure the masses, Mrs Beetons book of household management could possibly do more to aid recovery than yet another round of talks at Camp David. The book contained over 1,000 pages of which over 900 were recipes, set out in a format we still use today. Its reported the eminent wordsmith Conan Doyle was a great fan of Mrs B, holding her in the highest regard. He held the view that her book had more wisdom to the square inch than any work.

www.kitchenshrink.org.uk

Your lifestyle guide to all things eco...

October 2012

www.greenlivingmagazine.co.uk

p u e k a W

...to a cheaper way to travel


Find your car sharing match

travelwest.info
c y c l e c a r s h a r e w a l k b u s t r a i n
BD3203

Find Your Car Sharing Match


Do you have empty seats in your car for regular journeys such as going to work? Taking the kids to school? Going to sports?
If you could share those trips with someone in your area going the same way, just think of some of the benefits you could experience:  Cheaper motoring by sharing the fuel costs  Make new friends and enjoy sociable chats Reduced congestion on the roads Why not give it a go and see if anyone is travelling your way? You can sign up for free at the local travel information website www.travelwest.info where you can log on, register your journey and find your match. Try the savings calculator and see how much money you could save the average car sharer saves about 1,000 a year!

greenliving

www.travelwest.info

greenliving

Now heres something right up your street...

Sustrans
Swept along by the inspiring performance of Team GBs cyclists in this years Olympics, people are taking to their bikes as never before and Sustrans wants to make sure their enthusiasm has plenty of places to go.
Sustrans the Bristol-based sustainable transport charity is all about helping more people to travel on foot and by bike every day. Theyre not looking for the next Bradley Wiggins or Victoria Pendleton. Instead they want ordinary mortals like you or me to feel more inclined to get our kids on their bikes (yes, you do need to wear your helmet), take the train or bus to work, or go for a lungexpanding walk on the weekend. Lots of people would love to do just that, but are put off by busy roads, a lack of safe routes or simply not knowing enough about the options in their local area. Thats why Sustrans is working flat out, creating routes and campaigning for changes to make it safer, easier and much more enjoyable for people to get about under their own steam. The National Cycle Network is the jewel in Sustranss crown, offering 13,600 miles of well-signed cycling and walking routes that are already used by over a million people every single day. Sustrans aim is for there to be a safe, enjoyable route within one miles reach of everyone in the UK including yours. And while the network continues to grow, Sustrans is developing the communities of the future. In schools, special schemes are helping kids and their families to change the ways they travel, managing to double the numbers who cycle at target schools. Through practical DIY Streets projects, local groups are changing their communities so that theyre safer to live in and nicer to travel through. The charity is also one of the key players creating increasing numbers of 20 mph zones in towns across the UK. So if you want to be part of a movement thats really going places, Sustrans could be right up your street...

www.sustrans.org.uk

october 2012

BEAM
Bristol has a wonderful architectural culture, where each style is represented in a relatively small area. Every street has visual treats; the variety of design and construction can create really interesting places to live and work in. Consequently the opportunities to maintain and alter such buildings are both testing and exciting: new spaces can be created from old ones, in ways that the original architect could not have imagined. Of course there are challenges in carrying out this work: there are various legal restrictions and rules that should be acknowledged, such as Listed Building Consent and Building Regulations Approval, as well as the structural demands of these changes. Also, current environmental concerns require that the thermal performance of a building is considered when alterations are being designed. Such work requires understanding and care for the building and its users, so that its architecture and character are maintained, while the occupants are respected. The BEAM team are passionate about altering buildings creating better spaces with existing resources. They are widely experienced in the refurbishment and structural alteration of a variety of structures. Also, more topically, ecoupgrades this involves measuring and improving the thermal performance of a building. A full energy survey can be carried out, with impartial design advice, helping the building to evolve in such times of change, when we must manage our resources more respectfully. They have worked with many architects, engineers and surveyors, creating lovely projects. Call 0117 924 6024 Email info@beam.uk.com Visit www.beam.uk.com

greenliving

Find BEAM on The Green Register Contact Simon Reid (CIOB)

Sunlight Future turns the light on solar-charged electric van


Bristol-based renewable energy company Sunlight Future has gone the extra mile for green energy. The company is running the first medium-range electric van in Bristol and its charged by solar energy.
The Kangoo Van Z.E. was recently bought from Bristol Renault dealer City Motors, and when charged from traditional energy it produces less than a third of the carbon emissions of a diesel equivalent. The Sunlight Future van is charged with renewable energy generated by the solar array on the roof of the Create Centres eco-home, where the company is based. Charging the zero-emissions van with renewable energy means that it is effectively carbonneutral for Sunlight Future to run. Powered by renewably sourced electricity, the Sunlight Future electric van is also instantly protected from fuel price rises. People can visit the van at the Renault ZE roadshow, @Bristol, 19-21 October or visit the website to see a video of it in action.

www.sunlightfuture.co.uk

october 2012

FOR FAIR TRADE COMMUNITIES


Retired dis trict nurse , Christine in her gard Lloyd keep en in the vi s seven he llage of Ha For the pa ns llbankgate st two yea near Bram rs she has from the sa pton. deposited le of her eg the money gs into a S made hare Acco I opened unt. the Share d Interest it up with account w the sale o it h f 100 and to th e eggs. Fo my money p r is with Sh ared Intere me, I know that whils and time a st, it is bein t gain to fair g le tr nt out time world to h ade projec elp them g ts in the d eveloping row their b an income usinesses for their fa and provid milies and communit e benefits to ies. their

A HAND UP

cal ly to help lo goes direct s de st ra rt ve ai in F e an Christin rld. Peruvi o w m g o in fr The money p g o evel ng financin es in the d nt. jillo are usi la an p communiti g ar N in , ss rs uce coa proce cocoa prod op their co rove the st to devel well as imp re te as In ity ed iv ct u d Shar nability. ro ai p st se increa iency and su lich said: fic ef s This should e iv aul Sab co-operat xecutive P elopment E ev D al n expand its io Reg was able to lo jil n pe to ra a N US. We ho our funds, pe and the ro 2,500 u Thanks to e E th to f o s ocoa sale r the sake c fo e , d a th tr w ir a ro ra F g pe tive. elping their at make up the co-o continue h th rs e cocoa farm

By opening a Share Account and becoming an investor you can help communities in the developing world access fair finance and create sustainable livelihoods. Investing in Shared Interest is easy, anyone over the age of 16 with a UK bank account can open a Share Account with as little as 100. Call 0191 233 9102, visit www.shared-interest.com or return this slip to

Yes, Id like to find out about investing in a fairer world. Please send me more information about Shared Interest. Full name Address Telephone Email ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ____________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________
G1234567

Shared Interest, FREEPOST NT1883, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 1BR

wilks restaurant
New restaurant on the block wilks is looking forward to its first Christmas. The menu has all the seasonal classics you would expect, with a few more modern dishes added to make sure everyone is catered for. Start your festive party with Christmas crackers and a complimentary glass of their homemade spiced orange wine. A refreshing and delicious variation on the traditional mulled wine this is made with sweet white wine, orange, cinnamon, cloves and various other spices. Its the perfect aperitif to get everyone in the party mood!

Christmas at
Christmas menu
26 three-courses
Toasted chestnut veloute Maple-cured salmon fillet goats cheese, apple & beetroot Chicken liver parfait with Madeira & thyme warm brioche Roast turkey stuffing, bread & cranberry sauces with traditional seasonal vegetables Fillet of wild cod toasted hazelnuts & carrot jus Wild mushroom risotto cepes & girolles Christmas pudding with brandy sauce family recipe Lemon curd tart vanilla & orange blossom mascarpone West Country cheeses homemade chutney, bread & biscuits
Prices are inclusive of VAT Service at your discretion

Homemade spiced orange wine

Wilks Restaurant, 1 Chandos Road, Redland, Bristol BS6 6PG Call: 0117 973 7999 Visit: www.wilksrestaurant.co.uk

> flavour nick harman

Suits let loose for festive frolics


Its that time of year again when Nick Harman looks forward to the Christmas office party...

Christmas is coming; the email box is getting fat. Like the innocent little flurry of snow that presages a blinding white-out with motorway drivers being found frozen in their company cars, the restaurant Christmas season dining offers are drifting down out of the e-sky. Yule is of course Valentines Day squared; its the big one, the nice little earner, the pay day that will hopefully make up for the disaster of the Olympics, the summer of sport when, for most restaurants, the diners stayed away in droves. Up and down the country some poor soul in the office, the one that didnt run away fast enough, has been saddled with the task of organising his or her departments Xmas lunch or dinner. And up and down the country, restaurants of every shape and size are firing off email offers and seeing if they cant squeeze in an extra table or two while cancelling all staff leave until January.

Chefs of course for the most part could not really bother coming in; the majority of people at an office Xmas meal are insensible with drink before the mains arrive and ready for a stand-up fight by dessert. All chef has to do is make sure the choice of starters is limited, preferably stuff that can be served cold, the mains so simple a monkey could cook them, and desserts are stacked high in the freezer. Never mind the Michelin star mate, this is serious money! For the ordinary diner, December is simply a no-go area; you really dont want to be in the same restaurant as the office party. Your order will be forgotten as the waiters try to handle an increasingly loud table of 10 all playfully throwing bread rolls, and then lumps of food, at each other. Soon the staff will have to tackle the problem of people either heaving their guts out in the toilets (Rebecca doesnt normally drink) or having steamy affair in there (Rod and Paula have been eyeing each other

up all year). You and your timid enquiry as to where your main course has got to really have no chance. And frankly, you dont want to hear the answer anyway. It doesnt matter whether the restaurant is the local trattoria or the best food palace in London, the office party will be just the same. The latter bunch may be paying more but theyll still act like teenage lager louts and wont even taste their food. Chefs kidding himself if he thinks a bunch of well-oiled hedge fund managers give a toss about his garnish, it will still be used as a missile however good it may look. The best thing is to not book but peer in first. If you see the signs of office party, move on. That bloke dancing on the table while eating foie gras is a warning, and in all probability it will turn out to be me...

Nick Harman is editor of www.foodepedia.co.uk and was shortlisted last year for The Guild of Food Writers Restaurant Reviewer of the Year.
102


FOR THE FINEST, LOCALLY SOURCED, SEASONAL PRODUCE
PLUMP TURKEYS, DRY-AGED BEEF, DELICIOUS PORK AND FANTASTIC GAME

! s a tm is r h C r o f t c e f r e P

HIGHWORTH 01793 762085

MARLBOROUGH 01672 519915

WOOTTON BASSETT 01793 840841

www.andrewsqualitymeatsltd.co.uk