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Published By Saroh Social Development Organization Shahdadkot Saroh Office, Near Scientific Public School, Railway Station Road, Shahdadkot, District Kamber-Shahdadkot, Sindh, Pakistan- 77300 Ph: +92-74-4012896, Cell: +92-3337505896/ 03342015896 E-mail: org.saroh@gmail.com
I dedicate The Forgotten Forts of Sukkur & Shikarpur Regions To Dr. Kaleemullah Lashari Ph.D. Archeologist/Conservationist/Historian/Explorer & (The former Secretary to the Government of Sindh Department of Antiquities)
Who is one of those personalities in my life that have really inspired me beyond writing these types of works
BAKHAR FORT
The Bakhar Fort represents a fine appearance from the River Indus, and has a show of great strength from the past. It is situated on an island in the Indus River between Rohri on the east bank and Sukkur on the west, near to the later. It had 2 gateways. So early as AD. 1327, when Sindh was a part of Delhi Empire, Bakhar seems to have been a place of note, from the fact of trustworthy persons being employed by the emperor Muhammad Tughlak to command there. The local Samma Rulers of Sindh made some changes in it several times. During the reign of Shah Beg Arghun, the fortifications of Bakhar appear to have been partially, if not wholly, rebuilt, the fort of Alor being broken up to supply the requisite material. The Mughal emperor Humayun ( 1508-1556 AD) being defeated by the Afghan Sher Shah in AD 1540, fled to Sindh where he endeavored unsuccessfully to take the fort of Bakhar. While he was wandering in Iran and Sindh, he met a young Persian girl named Hamida Bano whom he married. After a year, they had a son whom they named Akbar. According to local legends, Humayun did not have anything but some musk to gift to his well wishers and followers at that time. He broke the musk into small pieces and distributed it among his men. He predicted that one day the fame of the prince would spread like the smell of musk. After a short stay in Jodhpur, (Rajputana-Rajasthan) Humayun returned to Sindh by the way to Umarkot in 1542 A.D. The island of Bakhar became a battlefield between the armies of Prince Dara Shikoh and Aurangzeb Alamgir in 1659 AD. Prince Dara Shikoh had deployed 2000 army consisted on Syed, Pathan, Mughal, Rajput and European soldiers in the Bakhar Fort but he could not win the battle and fled to Dhahdhar where he was captured by Malik Jeevan Baloch who sent him to Aurangzeb. 47 Mughal Governors ruled Bakhar Fort from 1574 to 1736. In AD, 1574 the place was delivered up to one Keshu Khan, a servant of the Mughal emperor Akber. In 1736 AD, the fortress fell into the hands of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro (1719-1755), and at a subsequent date into that of the Afghans, by whom it was retained till captured by Mir Rustam Khan Talpur in 1821. In 1837 AD, Lieutenant Robert Leech of Bombay Engineers described that the Walls of Bakhar Fort are 30 and 35 feet high, and the elevation of the island on which it stood above the river was 25 feet. At that time there was a garrison of about 10 men and 1 gun on the ramparts, which were partly destroyed by its discharge. He further tells that the inside was in ruins there being only a few huts and a bungalow of the Ameer of Khairpur, the magazine in time of siege. In 1839 AD, during the first Anglo Afghan War, the fort of Bakhar was ceded by the Khairpur Mirs to the British, to be occupied by them during the campaign, and it so remained till in the conquest of the province in 1843 AD. It was the principal British Arsenal during Afghan and Sindh Campaigns under the command of General John Jacob. A Jail was established in the Bakhar Fort in 1865 AD and was controlled by Shikarpur District up till 1876. The Jail was capable of accommodating 320 convicts with 2 barracks. The prisoners used to make table cloths, toweling, carpets, winter coats, reed chairs, and sofas etc. According to Henry Cousins (1929) the length of Bakhar fort was 800 yards from east to west while its breadth from north to south was 200 yards. Its walls were 30 to 35 feet high from ground level. It was located on an oval shaped island of River Indus. It had 2 gates that opened in the directions of Sukkur and Rohri. Currently forces of Pakistan Army have their military base on this island for last many decades. Army Public School, Naval Recruitment Center and Sadar ud Din Shah tomb are the major attractions of Bakhar Island these days.
LAKHI FORT
The magnificent Lakhi Fort was located 8 miles in the south of Sukkur on main road between Sukkur and Shikarpur. According to A.W.Hughes the town of Lakhi was of ancient date and was the chief place of that part of Sindh then known as Burdika and Larkana, at a time when the town of Shikarpur had no existence. Its present site was covered with thick forest at that time. Captain Goldsmid in his Historical Memoir on the town of Shikarpur refers to Lakhi as being the capital of that portion of the country in the early 17th Century. It sis said that Lakhi was founded by a man called Lakhoo Jatoi. The Jatois, a race of Balochis held the country on the west bank of the River Indus between Burdika and Larkana. Jaiser Khan Mahar who was resident of Obauro near Bahawalpur frontier came from Bakhar to settle down with these people. Soon Jaiser Mahar obtained a tract of land with the support of Moosa Khan Mahar, a close friend of noted Nawab Mahmood Bakhri, the governor of under Shah beg Arghoon. Jaiser Khan Mahar had received the tract from Mehelani to Larkana as a free gift. The Jatois obtained the more northern allotment or from Mahlani to Burdika in return. Jaiser remained at Lakhi until his death. His son Akil, in conjunction with his brother Bukur, and cousin Wadera Sajan Khan determined on building a new town to replace the old one. They also
built a fort which was erected for many years after their deaths. Captain F.G.Goldsmid also gives description of Lakhi Fort in his Report A Historical Memoir on Shikarpoor November 1854 AD. Akil Khan Mahar made 2 divisions of Lakhi; one retaining the name of the town itself and the other called Bhanboor, after his son. He died in the year 1012 AH/ 1603 AD and was buried between Lakhi and Shikarpur. His son Sher Khan Mahar was among the most opponents of the Daudpota chiefs upon their appearance on the hunting ground near Lakhi. A quarrel arose on hunting issue. Pir Sultan Ibrahim Shah who was religious leader of the both parties convinced Mahars but they did not listen to him. On this he invoked curses upon rebelling Mahars and blessing upon the Daudpota chiefs promising them the victory. According to the story, the Daudpota could only muster a force of 300 or 400 servicemen while their opponents numbered 12000. Some 3000 dead bodies of Mahars strewed the ground but a few were killed on the side of victors. The Daudpotas had taken up their positions in a canal called Folad, now destroyed, much in the same manner the Talpurs did more than 200 years later in 1843 AD. After this victory Pir Sultan Ibrahim Shah took his Daudpota Disciples with him and pointed the m to build a city with the name of Shikarpur. According to Sir Alexander Burnes the city of Shikarpur was founded by Daudpota chiefs in 1026 AH/ 1617 AD. After the foundation of Shikarpur, the town of Lakhi gradually dwindled away in both size and importance. Abdul Samad Khan Mughal was Kardar of Lakhi in 1847 AD. The Lakhi Trignometrical Station was situated on a small mound about 10 feet above the adjacent ground. This station existed in 1863 AD.
From the statement of Major P. Goldney it comes into light that the mud fort of Naushehro Abro was built by Nawab Wali Muhammad Khan Leghari, the Governor of Larkana in 1807 AD. Naushehro Abro was formerly, during the Meers times, attached to the Chandooka/ Larkana District. The estimated former Revenue of Shikarpur and Naushehro Abro under the Mirs was 2, 43,074 Rupees, 0 Annas and 4 Paisas. The average annual Revenue for the years 1844-45, 1845-46-, and 1846-47, was 48,000 Rupees. While the average collections of Naushehro Abro Kardar was 18,000 Rupees. Sindh, Ali Bahar, Ali Mardan Abro, Meer Wah, Dilawar, and Hayat Wah were the main River Indus canals. On the other hand principal towns and villages were Naushehro Abro, Wassil, Duroodgiran, Toray, and Mundeji. Prior to the conquest of Sindh this part of land belonged to Mir Nasir Khan Talpur of Hyderabad, Sindh. A.W.Hughes in his Gazetteer of The Province of Sindh (1876) syas, Naushahro Abro, a taluka or sub-division of Sukkur and Shiakarpur Deputy Collectorate, containing an area of 415 square miles, with 6 Tappas,112 villages, and a population of 48,226 souls. Portions of this taluka have at various times suffered severely from the effects of disastrous floods, which, sweeping over the country, have made a desert of what was before flourishing cultivation. Bandhs have been constructed in several places to keep out, where possible destructive flood waters, and they have to some extent, proved useful. (A Gazetteer of the Province of Sind By A.W.Hughes, London 1876, page No. 640)
KHANPUR FORT
One of the prime attractions in Shikarpur area was the famous Khanpur fort. The town of Khanpur is at a distance of about 8 miles north-east from Shikarpur. According to Captain F.G.Goldsmid (1854) the large fort of Khanpur was built by Bakhtawar Khan Panni, a governor of Sibi whose name was well known in the neighborhood of that place. The town of Bakhtiarpur is also named after him. Khanpur was close to the Sherwah Bund which protected it from the northern floods of River Indus.
TARAI FORT
The Tarai Fort belonged to Abra, an old and influential tribe in Sindh, the records of whose prowess and reputation are still preserved in the songs and traditions of the country. Their tribal seat Village Tarai is situated in the north-east of Larkana in Taluka Garhi Yasin District Shikarpur Sindh. Lieutenant Robert Leech of Bombay Engineers writes in his Report on Sindhian, Khelat and Daudpota Armies (1837 AD) that, the Abras are 300 under Ghulam Hyder and Ally Mardan, in the service of Noor Muhammad (Talpoor), the later has a Jahgire at Talaee and the former at Sardar Khan Shahar near Lardkhana. (Page 74) Sardar Ali Mardan Khan Abro was chief of Abra Tribe in Upper Sindh. He was son of Sardar Jalal Khan Abro, who served Kalhora Rulers during their military campaigns against Afghans. Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur tried a lot to include him as a chief in Hyderabad Court but he refused to do so. Mir Nasir Khan Talpur gifted him a Gold Sword for his valuable services. He could raise an army of 10,000 at a time to support the rulers in difficult times. Mir Fateh Ali Khan Talpur bestowed upon him a Jagir of 786 Beegah in Tarai to graze his horses. In another written record, Sardar Ali Mardan Khan Abro used to receive 971 Shikarpuri Rupees and 100 Kharars of Rice from Talpur Amirs of Sindh. He was interested in promoting Agriculture. Its why he dug a canal having a length of 22 miles in 1844-45 AD. Sardar Ali Mardan Khan Abro died on 13th November 1884 AD. His son Ali Hyder Khan Abro became chief of Abra tribe after his fathers death. The Tarai Fort had 4 towers on its corners and it was spread on 10 Acres. The mud fort had a gate in the south direction with a well inside it. Its walls were 6 feet wide at the foundations while the height of the fort was more than 20 feet. The old fort of Tarai was demolished by Sardar Azhar Khan Abro/ Kamario some 10 years ago for reconstruction purposes. A bungalow existed outside the mud fort which was built by Sardar Ali Hyder Khan Abro during British Period. He was grandson of Sardar Jalal Khan Abro and son of Sardar Ali Mardan Khan Abro. Once Hazrat Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai (1689-1752) had visited Tarai and had blessed Abra chiefs. Some relics of Shah Latif are still in the custody of Kamario chiefs at Tarai. The oral tradition of Sindh tells that Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro had married a lady from Abra Tribe. Mula Jiand Abro, one of the ministers of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro was also a member of Abra tribe who fought many battles against Daudpotas of Shikarpur. Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro appointed Mula Jiand Abro as his deputy in Shikarpur and awarded him with many honours. The Abras of Tarai are said to have come originally from Bhooj, India, says Captain F.G.Goldsmid in November 1854 AD.
SHIKARPUR FORT
Shikarpur drives its Name from Shikargah or Hunting ground as it was originally Game reserve of the past rulers. According to T.Postans the town of Shikarpur was founded by Bahadur Khan Daudpota chiefs in AH 1026 (AD 1617). They were by profession weavers and warriors, and led a wild and wandering existence, some at Khanpur, some at Tarai, and others in Bakhar Area. The Daudpota Chiefs also built a fort to protect Shikarpur city from invaders. It is situated in latitude 27 55 N. and longitude 68 45 E. It is distant about 18 miles west from the nearest point of the Indus River, in a country so low and level, that, by means of canals from that river, it is, during the inundation season, extensively flooded. Two branches of the Sindh Canal the Chhota Begari and the Rais Wah-flow on either side of the city, the former to the south, and the latter to the north of it. In 1701 AD, Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro founded Kalhora Power in Sindh by taking Larkana and Kandiaro. The Larkana area was held by Malik Allah Bux Panni, the brother of Bakhtiar Khan Panni. The governor of Sibi Bakhtiar Khan Panni, upon these reverses, appealed to Prince Muizuddin also known as Jahandar Shah, the governor of Multan who no sooner heard the report then he turned to the scene of disturbance. Then Bakhtiar Khans heart misgave him, for he did not wish to see the country, entrusted to his charge, overrun by the troops of his master. He prayed to the prince to withhold his march, and on the refusal of his request, had actually the audacity to oppose the advancing hosts. Bakhtiar Khan Panni was slain and Prince Muizuddin repaired to Bakhar. Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro does not appear to have suffered severely for his offences; on the contrary, the prince came gradually round to favour his views of aggrandizement. One after another a new governor was appointed for Sibi, which province, in course of time, was handed over to the Vakils of Kalhora Chief. Thus Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro received the imperial title of Khuda Yar Khan by the Mughal Court of Delhi. Shikarpur was taken by Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro in 1722 AD. He appointed Mula Jeand Abro as his governor there. The Daudpota Tribe played their important role in the History of Sindh from 1658 to 1780 AD. Shikarpur was ruled by Afghans from 1772 to 1824 AD. As the city was easily accessible through the Bolan Pass, brass and metal goods, carpets, cotton cloth, and embroidery flowed through it via the Dhak or covered bazar. Its traders had links with merchants in Iran, Iraq, Samarkand, and Sumatra. Business was so brisk that the Central Bank of India opened a branch here. The Walls of Shikarpur fort, also of unburnt brick, had been allowed to remain so totally without repairs that they no longer deserve the name of a protection to the city. They enclosed a space of 3800 yards in circumference. There were 8 gates namely 1) Lakhi Gate 2) Hazzari Gate 3) Hathi (Elephant Gate) 4) Sibi Gate 5) Khanpur Gate 6) Naushehro Abro Gate 7) Wagoono (Waggan) Gate 8) Karan Gate and Siddique Window. This window was constructed by Ghulam Siddique Khan Pathan (1772-1783 AD), an Afghan Governor of Shikarpur. The walls of Shikarpur fort had been declined in 1845. It is why it was plundered by Balochis easily. Some of the broken portions of this mud fort existed up till 1940s. The British Government filled the ditch that surrounded the fort in the same year.
The Mud Fort of Shikarpur
KARAN FORT
The village Karan Sharif is famous for the Sacred Hair of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH). It is located 4 Kilometers from Shikarpur on Garhi Yasin Shikarpur Road. A small fort existed at the site in the past. Lieutenant Arthur Connolly says in 1834 that, From Ghurree we rode eight miles north to Shikarpore: half way was the fortified village of Kerne. (Page205)
YOSOOF FORT
Tables of heights in Sind, the Punjab, N.W. Provinces and Central India Determined by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, Trigonometrically and by Spirit Leveling Operations published by Public Works Department Press in 1863, page No 57 reads; Yosoof P.S., Lat 27 51 9 Long 68 28 42, Height above Sea Level 215.29 Upper Surface Mark stone of platform, which is 8.71 feet high. It is situated on the ruins of an ancient village about 25 feet above the surrounding country; the village of Wasil is half a mile south west by west, Udha, one quarter mile south, Fakir Jo Gote, one mile north, and the small mud fort of Yosoof about half a mile north east. The station is in the Drekhan Kardary, District Shikarpoor. (Page 57)
JAGAN FORT
According to Lieutenant Robert Leech in 1837 AD, the village of Jagan was situated 7 Kos from Shikarpur and it had 100 houses with 4 wells. (Page No.88) Describing Fort of Jagan, Edward Thornton writes in his Book A Gazetteer of the Countries Adjacent to India on the Northwest: Including Sinde, Afghanistan, Beloochistan, and the Punjab, and the Neighboring States: Volume I, London 1844, on Page No. 289 that, Jaghan, or Jaghun: a place in Sinde, twelve miles north-west of Shikarpoor. It consists of a fort and village with some lofty square fortified buildings outside. It has a small, but rather well-furnished bazaar. Supplies may be procured in moderate quantities, and forage, both for camels and horses, is plentiful. Jaghan is eleven miles and a half from Janehdurra, from which place the road lies over a level country with much wood. There is an encamping ground on the south-east of the village. Lat. 28 4, Long. 68 39. (Page No 289). Jagan Road was situated through a Jungle country. Mir Amir Khan Bhayo tells that the fort of Jagan was built by Sardar Jagan Khan Bhayo- I during 18th century AD. Sardar Jagan Khan Bhayo-I, had a son Sardar Muhammad Salah Khan Bhayo who built a bungalow in village Jagan. He left behind 7 sons. From whom Sardar Khanbahadur Jagan Khan Bhayo-II became chief of the tribe.
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Sketch of Indus River near the fort of Bakhar, an island between Rohri and Sukkur, 1861
View on the Indus, near Rohri and Bakhar fort island, Sindh, c1890
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