The Americanized French Cutting Method

Class
_., ^f^
N"
Copyright
COPYKIGIIT DEPOSIT.
J. H. "PROUD
THE
Americanized
French
Cutting
Method
BY
A. H.
PROUD
This simple method
is
given by short measures.
The
correct proportions of sizes
and
full
instructions
for drafting the various up-to-date styles of
coats, vests
all
and
of
pants.
There
are twenty
eight different diagrams in this text book,
which are
illustrated.
Copyrighled 1906 by
A. H.
Proud. Chicago.
Illin
1906
CHICAGO. ILLINOIS
ILIBRARY5reO3HES3
Two
Coplss Received
OCT 27 1906
^Wî",
CLAsilA
T.
CMyrleM
Entry
'
7"
la
XXC,
NO,
/NDEX
Preface
5
The Measuring
of the
Man
6
7
Table of Coat Proportions

Single Breasted Sack
8-9
Double Breasted Sack
10-"
12-13
The Corpulent Form Sack

Military Blouse
H-iS
1^-17
Tuxedo
The
Sleeve
18-19
Bon Jour Coat
"Morning Coat"
20-21
The Corpulent Form Cutaway

French Frock Coat
Dress Coat
22-23
24-25
26-27 28-29
30-31
Bon
Soir
Coat "Day Coat"
Clerical
Coat
Police
Uniform Coat
32*33
34-35
Full
Bell
Box Overcoat
Bottom French Overcoat
36-37 38-39
40-41
Flowing French Paletot

French Surtout
Paddock
French Ulster
Inverness
42-43 44-45 4^-47
French Waistcoat
48-49
50-51
Double Breasted Vest

Vest for
Corpulent Form
52-53
54-55
Full Dress Vest
Easy Method Trousers
56-57 58-59
60-61
,
.
The Peg Top Trousers
The Corpulent Form Trousers

Riding Breeches
Proportion Table for Trousers
.;
62-63
64
PREFACE
At
/
no period
in
the history of the

of
American pubhc has
the necessity of an "Americanized-
French Metod
keen
is
Cutting " been so imperative to cutters as at the present
day.
all
So
in
the competitive spirit of the age that supreme
knowledge
is
is
necessary to
the struggle
respect, as
it
for
advancement.
simple method of easy cutting

his
the best system in every

lines
prohibits the cutter from troubling
brain
with
many
and explanations
This
is
essentially a practical
and up-to-date method.

is
The
ambition
of
the writer
to
give every
American
cutter
it
a
is
treasure of
invaluable
knowledge, a manual of study and a work of reference; and while

interesting in style,
it
simple, progressive
and
is
an aid
in diverting
all
from exact mathematics.
An
important matter
instructors.
in this
simple method
is
the
self
teaching of
garment cutting without the aid of

of this text
There
are several reasons for the existence

is
book:
First of
all
and perhaps
have
the greatest reason
that
it is
due
to the often
repeated request of cutters who,
like myself,
spent
many
I
fascinating hours in the study of successful cutting
by the method
years.
of exact
mathematics
time
1
have now been cutting
in
America about twenty-four

method by
centimeter.
is
Previous to
1
this
was
cutting in France, using the French
In
1881
came
to the
United States
and used the same system by inches (one inch

the
equal to two and a half centimeters), continuing

to
same
until
the present time.

it
find this
method
be correct
in
every particular.
it.
1
There can
believe
it
be no mistake made and

necessary to introduce
it
is
very simple
to the
when you once thoroughly understand

cutter as
its
this
book
American
methods give the best
results,
and
is
easy to adopt and eminently practical.
All that
is
required
is
a careful, attentive study of
its
undeviating
rules,
and
result will follow
as certain as a correct result follows true calculations in mathematics.
Hoping
forth
I
that the cutters of
America
it
will
gain pleasure
1
and
profit
from
this
book,
of
put
it
on
its
own ments
and, whether
1
lives
or dies,
shall at least
it
have the pleasure

of
knowmg
fellow
have performed a work that
love,
and sincerely hope
will
be
great benefit to
my
craftsmen.
Yours
respectfully,
A. H.
PROUD.
The Measuring
BEFORE measuring
If
of
the
Man
or
How
to
Measure
the customer,
it is
better to see that the sides of the vest are not loose.
is
necessary pin up both sides of the vest and see that the center seam of back
in
the
right place.
Use
the ordinary division square.

tight nor too loose,
First place the square
under the right

of square
and on each side

back
left
arms neither too
making a chalk mark above top

find the socket
of
back and across the center seam.
Then
line
bone or the point above
collar button
where
it
is
necessary for the seam of coat collar to come.
Measure
for the hip.
to
at
the the
scye depth.
To
get the waist length:
Put the
around the natural waist and mark
waist hollow part of the back just above the hip bone, then six inches
down
Pro-
ceedmg
to the measure.
First,
place the square under the arm with the long end
desire.
down and
parallel
with the arm,

to
measure sleeve length as long as customer may
Now
:
measure from the socket bone

full
the scye depth, then to the natural and fashionable waist line and then to the
using a
little
length.
Now
under the arm square with the tape attached
Place
it
under the arm and measure
from
front to the
back button
for
the strap
measure.
Then
without removing square get over
shoulder measure, front and under the arm, over the blade bone to the center seam of back for
the blade measure.
Then
around
breast measure
Pass the tape
line close
under the arms with tape over the most
prominent part of blade bone neither too tight nor too loose.
largest part of
seat.
Waist, hollow part of back and

vest.
All measures are taken over the

is
The
method
principal foundation of cutting
the breast and also the short measures.
The
simple
in this
book
gives
all
drafts
by
short measures.
THE VEST
If
measured
for a suit, all that
is
needed
is
the
openmg and
full
length measure, side and back.
THE TROUSERS
Measure the outside seam from hip bone
trousers
thigh,
to the
top of heel.
For the inseam have the
well
drawn up and measure from

If
the crotch to the top of heel.
Then
the waist, hip,
knee and bottom.
the figure
is
corpulent, measure from the crotch
up over the stomach
for the rise.

In the trousers the principal thing
is
the seat measure

it
which
gives the regular proportions to
the pants.
If
these measures are well taken
never
fails
to
make a
perfect
fit.
THE OVER COAT

All over coats should be drafted from two to three inches larger than the regular breast
measure, according to the material used.
THE AUTHOR.
Table
of Proportions for
Coats
Before
commence
the
instructions,
herewith give you a table of proportions.

vest,
The
following
measures are a guide for correct proportions as taken on the
and
applying should be added to the
measures
for the
making as follows:
To To
Scye depth,
Blade,
.
3-4 inch
1-2 inch
To To
Strap,
3-4 inch 3-4 inch
Overshoulder,
Breast
PROUD'S AMERICANIZED
SINGLE BREASTED SACK

The
following measures are the additions for making:
scye....
To To
depth
blade
is
^
i;-4
inches inches
To To
strap
(*)
.
54 inches
.
overshoulder.
inches
This draft
produced by the following measurements with the allowances
Depth scye Waist length Hip

Full length
9M
17^
inches
inches
23 inches
33 inches 5^ inches
Overshoulder Blade Breast
....18^ inches
13 inches
38 inches 34 inches
Waist
Seat
Strap
1 1
40 inches
to I
Square
lines
is
A E
and
Z.
Apply
A
C
to
is
9^
inches the depth of scye.
and up to Draw a line from F

to
X
to
the strap measure iij4 inches net.
to get
V.
waist length
17M
inches.
is
J4 inch.
A A
F B
to to
D
E
is
is
hip length 23 inches.

full
Apply the overshoulder measure plus }i inch from

is i8j4 inches. 4 and J to Square out from to Y.
length 33 inches.
W
is
to
Square out from A B C D and E. is half way between A and B.

to the star dot is 54 inch.
Y X
to 12.
to 19 to
1-6 breast measure.

54 inch less than
is
to S.
At C go
in J4 inch.
Draw
a line from
to
square
down
Shape the gorge, shoulder, arm scye and the front edge from 19 through P 6 and 7.
5 to 6
is
5/2
G is ^ inch. From G to H is half of H to O is 2^ inches. O to P is lV4 inches.

B
to
of waist.
full
breast 19
in.
1
2 to 5 Js 54 of waist.
8 to 5 is I inch. 9 to 10 is yi of Sieat.
II to
H H
L
to
is
I-I2 breast measure.

J4 breast J4 inch.
54 of breast
10
is 2!/2
inches.
to J
is is
is
measure.
measure.
J to
K
L
to J
to
Shape the side of forepart as indicated. Sweep from 30 to 13 pivoting at L. Sweep from 13 to 14 pivoting at X.
Finish as represented.
is
J4 inch.
Square down from J through 5 to get 9. Apply blade measure from G to J 11% plus iVa inches, 13
inches and square up.
THE COLLAR.
Draw
16 to a creased line from 21 to
is
Draw a line down from M and up from From L to N is ij4 inches
L.
15.
17 to IS
IS
154 inches.
N T A Q
to
to to to
T
S
is
J4 of breast. J4 inch.
54 inch
s/s
is
is
154
inches.
is
is is
18 to 20
1%
inches.
Q R
more than
1-6 of breast.
Shape the
if
collar
and
finish as represented.
inch.
Draw
a line from R to S. Square down from to 30 and shape the back. Measure the back A to R.
should be
from
you measure the strap from A to R and G to X there % of an inch added. But when you measure A to R and I to X there is no allowance.
FRENCH CUTTING METHOD
PLATE
I.
DOUBLE BREASTED SACK

This draft
is
produced by the following measurements with allowance>
Depth scye Waist length Hip length

Full length
9%
>I7%
,..23
inches inches
inches
Over shoulder
Blade
Bileast
18%
13
inches inches inches

inches
38
34
........ 33
inches
Strap
iiVa inches.
Waist Seat"
Apply
net. to
I
40
inches
Square
lines
is
A E
and
Z.
and up to
the strap measure 11V2
inches
A
C
to
is
g%
inches depth scye.
waist length
17%
inches.
;
-Draw a
line
is
from
inch.
to
to get
V.
A A
to to
D
E
is
is

full
length 33 inches.
E.
Square out from
F is B to Draw a line from F to i square down to 24. B to G is Vi inch. From G to H is half of full breast 19 inches.
A B C D and half way between A and B. the star dot is % inch.
W % Apply the overshoulder measure plus and J to W 18% inches.

V
to
inch from 9 to 4
Square out from
to Y.
to 23 to
is is
1-6 breast measure.
inch less than
to S.
scye.
Shape the gorge, shoulder and arm

5 to 6 is
J/2
of waist.
H
O
2 to 5
is is
is
1-3 of waist.
I
to to
O
P
is
is
2%
inches.
8 to 2 9 to 10
inch.
1-3 of seat.
iJ4 inches.
1-12 breast measure.
1-3 of breast
H H
L
to I
to J
is
is is
IT to 10
is
2^
inches.
measure.
J, to to
K
J
V2 inch.,
is
%
is
of breast measure.
to
%
i>4
Shape the side and forepart as indicated. Sweep from 3 to 13 pivoting at L. Sweep from 13 to 14 pivoting at X.
inch.
5
P
to get 9.
to
Y
is
is
2%
13%
inches for the double breasted addition.
Square down from J through Apply blade measure from G
iG to 6
up.
the same.
inches.
to J.
7 to IS is
11^
plus
inches
13
inches
Draw a From L
line
down from
is
and square and up from L.
20 to 23
IS
2 inches.
to 15.
Shape the front edge from 20

to
is
i9i inches.
% of breast. T to S ^ inch. A to Q ^ inch more than Q to R % inch.

N
to
THE COLLAR.
1-6 of breast.
is
is
Draw
a creased
is
hne from 16
inches.
to
15.
is
17 to 19
iVi inches.
Draw
a line from Square down from
to
S.
18 to 17
is
is
1%
M
A
to 3
to
and shape the back.
22 to 23
iVz inches.
finish
Measure the back'
R.
Shape the collar and
as represented.
11
PLATE
II.
12
THE CORPULENT FORM SACK

DOUBLE AND SINGLE BREASTED
This drafl
is
produced by the followins
measurements with the allowances

Overshoulder Blade
Breast
Depth sc>e Waist length Hip length

Full
10%
l85'2
inches inches inches inches

inches
20% 14^
42 40
43
inches
inches
inches inches
inches
23%
33
13
length
Waist
Seat
Strap
Square
lines
is
AE
and
Z. to
A
C
to
is
10%
inches.
waist length
18%
inches.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 20% inches. 4 and J to Square out from X to Y.
W
V4
inch
from
to
D
E
is
hip length
23%
inches.
A*"to
is full
length 32 inches.
Y X
to 22
to
is
is
1-6 breast measure.
U
is is
inch less than
to S.
scye.
Square out from A B G is half way between
C D and
E.
Shape the gorge, shoulder and arm

5 to 6 is
and B.
inch.
^
I
of breast measure.
to the star dot is in

I
%
to
2 to 5
1-3 of breast
measure.
At C go
inch.
i.
8 to 2
square
inch.
1-3 of seat.
Draw a line from F B to G is 54 incli. From G to H is half
down
to
12.
9 to 10
10 to II
is
is
Vs
of seat.
of breast 21 inches.
H
O
to to
O
P
is
2V4 inches.
154 inches.
Vg breast
is
is
Shape the side of forepart as indicated. Sweep from 3 to 13 pivoting at L. Sweep from 13 to 14 pivoting at X.
Finish the front edge of single breasted sack from 22
to 25 as represented.
H H
L
to I
measure.
measure.
to J
is is
1-3 breast
J to
to to
K
J
J4 inch. 54 of breast measure.
P
tion.
to
iji
is
2V4
inches
for
the
double
breasted
addi-
is
is
inch.
16 to 6
is
is
the same.
Square down from J through 5 to get 9. Apply blade measure from G to J 12% plus 1414 inches and square up. Draw a line down from JNI and up from L.
7 to IS
1%
inches.
1%
inches
Finish the front edge of double breasted sack as repre-
sented from 20 to
line
15.
After cutting the forepart cut
down on
the straight
arm
From L
to
is
N
T
to
to to to
T
S
N is 1% inches. ^ inch more than ^

inch.
5/^
from
a
31
to 30 the scye
to
the pocket and open the
of breast measure.
cut at the scye
is is
A
Q
Q R
inch
more than
to S. to 3
1-6 of breast.
is
inch.
from 31 to 34. from 26 to 28 and overlap 27 to 29 for large .forms, reshape the bottom from 32 to IS, as gives a good result, and the fullness is thrown to the bottom.
Draw
line
Draw a line from R Square down from Measure the back A Apply to I and up
net.
and shape the back.
THE COLLAR.
Draw
a creased line from 16 and 21 to
is is
is
to R.
17.
to
X
to
the
strap
measure
V.
13
inches
17 to 19 ig to 18
iVi inches,
1%
inches.
Draw
line
is
from
inch.
to
to
get
23 to 24
i>2 inches.
Shape the collar and
13
PLATE
III.
14
MILITARY BLOUSE
This draft
is
produced by the following measurements with allowances

lo
Depth scye Waist length
inches
inches
i8
Hip length
Full length
24
31
inches inches
inches
Overshoulder Blade Breast
igÂ inches
13^2 inches
38
34
inches
inches
Waist
Seat
Strap
12%
40
to to
inches
1-6 of breast.
Square
lines
is
A E
and
18.
A
Q
A
C
to
is
10 inches the depth scye.
Q R
is
Vi inch
more than
is
inch.
waist length 18 inches.
A A
B
to
to
D
E
is
is full
length 31 inches.
Square out from A B C D and E. F is half way between A and B.

to the star dot is
in
a line from R to W. Square down from O to T and shape the back. Measure the back A to R. Apply to I and up to X the strap measure 12% inches
Draw
net.
inch.
Draw
a line from
to
to get Y.
At C go
inch.
Y
square
full
to
is
inch.
Draw a line from F to i B to G is % inch. From G to H is half of
down
to 21. to
breast 19 inches,
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 4 and J to Z 1954 inches. Square out from X to 22.
22 to 20
is is is
inch
from
H
P
to
to
to
I
P
I
is
3 inches,
1-6 of breast.
Vi inch less than
is
^ ^ %
inch.
H H
is
is is is
Vs breast measure.
1-3 of breast
X X
to
to
V.
to 19
^- of breast.
to J
measure.
19 to 20
is
inch.
scye.
J to
K
N O
inch.
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm

8 to 9
7 to
is is
M
L
to J
is
more than }4 of breast measure.
%
I
of waist.
half
way between
iJ4 inches.
to
J.
8 6
Vs of waist. inch.
M
N
to
to
6 to 7
5 to
is is
is
is
the same.
4 inches.
Square down from J through 8 to get 11. Apply blade measure from G to J 12 plus iVa inches 13V2 inches and square up. Draw a line down from O and up from M. to J is 1-6 breast measure.
3 to s
inch,
11 to 12 is 1-3 of seat.
13 to 12
is 2;/2
inches.
M
S
to
to
U V
is is
^2 inch V2 inch.
more than
1-6 of breast,
Shape the side of forepart as indicated. Sweep from 14 to 16 pivoting at X. Shape the front edge from 20 through i, 10 and Cut the fish out from L to 17 as represented.
16.
15
PLATE
IV.
16
TUXEDO
PEAKED AND SINGLE LAPEL
This draft
is

Full
9%
17%
23
Overshoulder
Blade Breast
i8V4 inches
13
inches
inches
38
34
length
32
inches
Waist
Seat
inches
inches
Strap
11V2 inches
40
Square
lines
is
A E
and
Z.
A
C
to
is
9%
inches the depth scye.
Measure the back A to R. Apply to I and up to X the

net.
strap
measure
li'/2
inches
waist length
17%
inches.
A A
to
D
E
is

full
Draw
a line
from
to
is
length 32 inches.
V
G
to
to
to get
V.
plus
is
inch.
Square out from A B C D and E. F is half way between A and B.
B to the star dot is % inch. Draw a line from F to I square down to 22. B to G is % inch. From G to H is half of full breast 19 inches.
Apply the overshoulder measure to 4 and J to 1854 inches. Square out from X to Y.
inch
from
Y X
to 19
to
is
is
V2 inch
more than
1-6 of breast measure.
U
6
% %
I
inch less than
to S.
scye.

5 to
is is
H
O
to
O
P
I
is
2V4 inches.
lyi inches.
Vs breast measure. 1-3 breast measure.
'/2
.
of waist.
to
to
is
is is is is is
6 to 18
2 to 5
is
1]4 inches.
H H
L
1-3 of waist. inch.

1-3 of seat.
2'/2
to J
8 to 2
is
J to
K
L
inch.
9 to 10
II to 10
is
is
to J to
Vi
of breast measure.
inch.
inches.
Square down from J through S to get g. Apply blade measure from G to J 11V2 plus 1V2 inches 13 inches and square up. and up from L. Draw a line down from
Shape the side of forepart as indicated. Sweep from 3 to 13 pivoting at L. Sweep from 13 to 7 pivoting at X. Shape the front edge from 20 to 7 as represented.
From L
to
is
iVa inches.
THE COLLAR.
Draw
a creased line
is
N
T
to to
T is L is
Vi of breast.
;/2
inch.
from
14 to 15.
A Q
to
to
Q R
is is
% %
inch
inch.
more than
1-6 of breast.
17 to 15
i]4
inches. inches.
15 to 16 is
jH
Draw
from R to S. Square down from M to 3 and shape back.

a line
19 to 21
is
iVa inches.
collar
Shape the
and
finish
as
represented.
PLATE
V.
THE SLEEVES
Square
lines
is
AB
and
C.
arm scye. G to is >4 arm scye. E to F is 1 inch and E to D is same. Square across from E D and F. E to H is >^ of arm .scye 9 inches.
to
G E
1-12
Draw a line from G to H. G to H is % inch more than

Apply the length
line to
1
'4
arm
scye.
to J
and
scjuare across
K
inches. inches.
6^4
to
is 1 >4 is
to
is
N
L
half
way between
from
and
J.
Square
to
to
line
is |4
is
to L.
M
O
inch.
IX
inch.
P is X inch. 1 to Z is 1-6 of arm scye. Sweep from T to G, pivoting at Z. R to S is inch and S to T is same. V to N is >< inch and N to U is % inch
to
-'4
1
Fini.sh as represented.
19
PLATE
VI.
20
BON JOUR COAT

This draft
is
produced by foUowins measurements with allowances
Depth scye
Natural waist Fashionable waist Full length Strap
9%
17
19 i(
38
12
inches inches inches inches inches
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
IS^*
inches
13X
38
34
Waist
Square lines
AE
is
and
22.
C
depth of scye
inches.
to 8
is
is
"2
inch.
From
A
C
to
9'^ inches the
8 to
1-6 waist
j/2
measure.
to
to
is is is
natural waist 17^4 inches.
to 3 is
is
inch.
A A
B
D
E
fashionable waist
193,:|:
4 to 3
1-3 waist
measure.
to
38 inches full length.
to 4
Square out from F is half way between

to star dot
is
BCD and E.
A
and
B.
is -H
is
,'A
inch.
of waist
4 to 5
measure.
5 to 6 is the
same.
inches.
9 to 10
is
inch.
6 to 7
is
1%
At
to 8
go
in }i inch.
D
full
to 9
and
the same as from
to 8
and
Draw From
a line up to F and down to E. the line inside of G to H is half of

inches.
'
to V.
breast
19 inches.
Square down from 10 to get 21. Sweep from 12 to 13 pivoting at W.

7
N is 2^4 inches, N to O is IX H is 1-12 brea.st measure. H to K is 1-3 of breast measure. H

1
to
to 13
is 1-3
of breast
measure.
to
THE
Place square at line
15 to 16
is yi
SKIRT.
and
16.
K to J is }i inch. L is haU way between M to K. K to M is '4 of breast measure.

Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 11% plus IK inches 13X inches,
5,
15
and square down to
14.
inch.
of skirt as represented of breast
to 16
Shape the top and 13.
from 12 through
M to X is
X
to
1-6 breast rrieasure.
From
line 14,
to
14
is
1-3
and square with the

,
to >^ inch les than 1-6 breast measure.
R is >4 inch. From A to P is X P to Q is ^ inch.

S to
inch more than 1-6 breast.
Draw From
a line to
14 to 17
IS y2
17.
is }i
of seat measure.
17 to 19
inch
IS,
a line from Q to R and shape the back. Measure the back from A to Q, apply to 1 and up to the strap measure 12 inches net. to F to get U, Draw a line from
Draw
Crease the back spring line from 12 to
rounding
13 to 2
it
inch at 19. Shape the front of skirt, rounding
it
from
and
to
is )i
inch.
the bottom from 20 to 18. Finish as represented.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus U inch from G to 30 and J to V IS-H' inches. to 23. Square out from 23 to 24 is yi inch more than 1-6 breast measure. Draw a line from U to 24 to get gorge.
THE COLLAR.
a crea.sed line trom 21 to 25. 27 to 25 is IX inches. 25 to 26 is II4' inches. 28 to 29
is I'yi
Draw
W to T
is
inch less than
to Q.
inches.
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm scye.
Shape the
collar,
and
21
PLATE
VII.
22
THE CORPULENT FORM CUTA^VAY

This
(lr;ift is
pr,i(iuced
by the following measuremetits with allowances
Depth sfvc
Xatural waist Fashionable waist Full length. Strap
UlX inches
16^4 inches
IS-?^:
Overshoulder
inches inches
37
14
inches
S()iiare lines
A E and A
26.
A A A A
to
to to
B C
is
1U>+ inches.
is
natural waist,
1654;
inches.
D
E
is
fashionable waist
IS5.4'
inches.
length 37 inches. and E. Square out from

to
is full
BCD
F is half way between A and B. B to the star dot is '^ inch. B to G is half of full breast 21 inches.
to to
M
I I
M is Zyi N is
I is
inches. inches.
1 J'^
G to
to
J to L to
1-3 of breast
measure.
H
L
is >^ is
of breast measure.
to J
^
/4'
inch.
of breast measure.
is
is 2.'4
inches.
Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from B to I 12|-4^ plus l}.4 inches 14>4 inches. L to Z is '4 inch more than 1-6 breast. Z to S is 1-6 breast measure S to R is 'A inch. From A to O is '4 inch more than 1-6 of breast.
()
to
is
4i inch.
Draw a line from P to R and shape the back. M'âsure the bick from A to P. Apply to 1 and up to X the strap measure 14 inches
net.
Draw
a line h-om
is
-'4
to
to get
V.
jilus
-'+
V
to
to
inch.
Apply the overshoukler measure 21 inches. O and I to Square out from X to 40.
inch from B
40 to Z2
is
is
1-6 breast
measure.
to 23
1-12 of breast.
PLATE
VIII.
24
FRENCH FROCK COAT

'I'his
draft
is
produced by the following measurements with alUnvanees

Overshoulder Blade
....
.
Depth scye 9^ inches Natural waist 17?^ inches Fashionable waist....l9% inches inches 46 Full lensrth 12 inches Strap
18^^ inches
13^ inches
38 34
Breast
inches
inches
Waist
Square
lines
A E and A
25.
Y
of scye.
to 3
is
1-6
waist measure.
of waist measure.
From A to B is 9H inches the depth A to C is natural waist l?^^ inches.
3 to 6 is 13^ inches. 3 to
is 1-3
is
A A
F B
to I)
is is
to
fashionable waist; \9}4 inches. 46 inches,, full length.
to 4
inch.
6 to 5
is J^
waist measure,
8
5 to 7 is
the same.
Square out from

is
BCD and
A
%
inch.
>^
E.
Sweep from
19 to 17
12 to 35
is is
through
inches.
12 to 19, (livoting at
W.
half
way between
and B.
IX
to the star dot is
1-3 of breast 8 to 9 is
"4
At
to 8 go in
inch.
D
down to E. G to H is half
of full breast 19
to S
and
is
measure. the same as from C to
and
to 3.
Draw From
inches.
a line up to F and
the line inside of
10 to
inch.
THE REVER.
Make width of rever 2>4 inches from Draw a line from 7 through 21 to 23.
7 to 27 is 31^
H
I
to
to
N is 1-6 of breast H is l/i inch.

is
measure. measure.
12 to 17.
H
J
to J to
1-3 of breast
inches and 21 to 20
is 3
is
the same.
is >|
inch.
Froai 22 to 23
inches.
is
half
way between
to K.
K to M is X of breast measure. Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 11|4 plus 1)4 inches 13'4 inches. M to X is 1-6 breast measure. X to S is the same. S to R is >^ ii^ch. From A to O is Ji inch more than 1-6 breast. O
to
THE
Pkue square
34 to 33
34. 12
is 1
SKIRT.
and 34 and square down
to 13.
at line
5,
33
inch.
of skirt as represented
from 10 through
to
From
5 to 13
is
9 inches.
Square with
line 13.
14,
is >S
inch.
Draw a line from P to R and shajje the back. Measure the back from A to P. Apply to and U}) to \V the straj) measure 12 inches Diaw a line from to F to get U.
I
Draw From
net.
a line to
13 to 14
is
is
1-3 of seat
measure.
16,
14 to 15
inch.
Curvê the back spring line from 10 to
rouuding
it
inch at
to
15.
U
32
to
is
inch.
Apply to overshoulder measure plus U inch from G and J to V ISJi inches. Square out from to 26. 26 to 24 is '.< inch more than 1-6 breast measure. Draw a line from U to 24 to get gorge. to T is ;i inch less than P to R. Shape the gorge shoulder and arm scve.
Square the front of skirt from 17 to 18. Finish skirt and shape the bottom as represented.
THE COLLAR.
Draw a creased
29 to
2>> is 1
line
from 27
to 28.
inch.
28 to 30
is
l}i inch.
to
is
!4
inch.
24 to 31 is the same. Shape the collar and finish as represented.
25
PLATE
IX.
TKis diagram represents tKe FrencK Frock Coat and appeared
in
one of tKe issues of
The American Gentleman.
26
DRESS COAT
This draft
is
produced by the follow ing measurements with

9j4
.
allowriflces
Depth
sc\'e
inches
Natural waist ...-. Fashionable waist Full length Strap

.
..17U
19-V 41
11 'i
inches inches inches inches
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
.
18%
13>2 38
-34

inche,3
Waist
..-.-
Square lines A E and A Z. From A to B is 9^+ inches the depth scye. A to C is natural waist 17 M inches. A to D is fashionable waist 19^ inches.
to 4
is
1'i
inches.
4 to 3
is /i
1-4
of waist.
inch.
3 to 5 is
5 to 6 is 1-6 breast
measure.
A
B
At
to
is
41 full length.
6 to 7
is 34
inch less than

to 9
is
Square out from

to star dot
is î
BCD
inch.
of waist measure.
to
and E.
to 8
and 8
the
same as fn.m C
21.
Y and Y
toX.
Square down from 9 to get
to E.
is
go in yi inch. Draw a line up to F and down

to 3
10 to 12 half
of
full
is ><
inch.
From
the line inside of
to
breast
Sweep from
7 to 11 is
10 to 11 pivoting at V.
measure 19 inches.
inch more than
breast measure.
H
I
to to
N
K
is
2X
inches.
of breast.
THE
15 to 13
is
SKIRT. down
from
to 15.
to 8
is >^
breast measure.
H
K
is 1-3 is >^ is
Place square at line 6 to 19 and square
J to
K
L
inch
brea.st
two inches.
of skirt as represented 12
to
to
)i(
measure.
'
is >s
breast measure.
13
through
Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 12 plus 1^4 inches 13 < inches. M to is 1-6 breast measure.
From Draw
6 to 15
is
SW
inches.
is yi
Square with
18 is fs inch.
line 15.
W W to R
to
a line to 16 from 15 to 16
seat measure 16 to
is
the same.
}.i
is
inch.
From A to O is >+ inch more than 1-6 breast. O to P is >^ inch. Draw a line from P to Q and shape the back.
Measure the back from A to P. Apply to I and up to V the strap measure
net.
11'-.
Curve the back spring line from 12 to 17 rounding inch as represented. From 11 to 14 is X of waist measure.
it
Draw
inches
a line from 14 to 20.

1 J'2
11 to 19 is
inches.
17 to 20 is 1-3 of waist
Curve
a line from
is
slightly the front
measure. edge of skirt from 19 to
20.
Draw
to
to get T.
to
inch.
-'+
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 31 and J to U 18^ inches. Square out from V to 30
30 to 29
is
inch from
to
THE REVER
Draw
a line from
is
through 25 to
27.
inch more than 1-6 of breast measure.
27 to 28 25 to 26
7 to 24
2 inches.
a line from T to 29 to get gjrge. S is X inch less than P to U Shape the gorge shoulder and arm scye.
Draw
is
2^
lii
inches.
V
C
to
is2>< inches.
is
is
19 to 23
22 to
inches.
to
to
Y X
is
is
J^
inch.
2 inches.
the normal front center line. Finish as represented.
27
PLATE
X.
28
BON SOIR COAT

This draft
is
pro(iiv--ed
by the follow ,ng measurements with allowauccs.

inches
Depth scye
Natural
Full
lo
waist
....17% inches
40
12
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
i9'/2
inches
I3y2 inches
Fashionable
length
waist.. 19^/2 inches
38 38
inches
inches
inches
inches
Waist
Strap
lines A E and A W. From A to B is 10 inches the depth A to C is natural waist 17H inches.
Square
27 to 24
scye.
is
Yi inch
more than
1-6 breast measure.
Draw
a line from
W
C
to 24 to get gorge.
to
is
^
'/,
inch less than
to R.
scye.
A A
F
to
D
E
is is
fashionable waist 19V2 inches.

to
to
40 inches
full length.
Y
Z
is
inch.
is half way between Square out from
BCD and
J4 inch. V2 inch.
and B.
E.
Y
Z
to
is is
2 inches. i?i inches.
to 3
B
At
to
Star dot
to 9
is
go
line
in
Draw From
IT
a line up to
the
F and down to E inside of G to H is half
3 to 4 is 54 of waist and d is t''e I'ne between sidebody and forenart where ever it crosses the line. From 4 to 7 is the leneth of sidebody. of
full
breast
From
d to 8
is
the length of forenart.

is
19 inches.
to to to
N
I
N is 2 inches. O is 3 inches.
This instruction Hves good results when the waist laro-er than the breast.
5 to
is
V2 of wîst to 10
H is Va breast measure. H to K is 1-3 breast measure. J to K is Va inch. K to M is Vi breast measure.

M/
to
D
to Z.
to 9
and 9
is
and sonare down from 6 the same as from C to

to get 21.
to get
!?.
and
Square down from 10

II
to
12
is
in'-h.
is
Va breast measure.
lilade
Sweep from
measure
6 to 13 pivoting at
W.
Square up and down from J and apply from G to J.
THE
Pbce
sciuare at line 5
SKIRT.
11%
plus iVa inches 1354 inches.
M
X
S
to
X
S
is is
1-6 breast measure.
to to
inch
more than
inch
1-6 breast
measure. meisure.
Shape the ton of

14 to 16
is
skirt as represented
and square down to 17. from 12 to
t6.
R is V2 inch. From A to P is V4
is
'A
inch.
more than
and
1-6 breast
From
S to 17 is 7 inches.
P to Q Draw a
5^ inch.
Square w'th
to
line 17.
line
from
to Q. apply to Measure the back from the strap measure 12 inches net. to 29 to get U. Draw a line from
R A
sliape the hack.

T
Draw
to
a line to 18
is
from
17 to 18
is
Vb of seat
measure.
and up
18 to 19
inch.
line
Curve the back spring

as represented.
from
12
to 20
rounding
it
to
is
F up
to 30
is
54 inch. 1-16 of breast measure for the high shoul-
From Draw
13 to 14
is
is
54 of waist
measure.
14 to 16
Va inch.
der figure.
a line
is
from 16
to 22.
Apply 'the overshoulder measure plus 54 inch from 28 and J to V is 19% inches. to 27. Square out from
to
20 to 22
1-3 of waist measure.
Curve
slightly front edge of skirt
from
16 to 22.
29
PLATE XL
30
CLERICAL
This draft
is
produced by the following measurements with allowances.
Depth scye
Natural âist Fashionable waist..
Full
9%
17'/^
inches
inches
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
13%
38
36
inches
13V4 inches
19^
40
1 1
inches
inches
inches inches
length
Waist
Strap
inches
Square
lines
A E
B
is
and
26.
Draw
a line
from
to 20 to get gorge.
From
A
C
to
is
A A A
to
9J4 inches depth of scye. natural waist 175^ inches.
X
C
to
U
Y
is
is
Vi inch less
than
to R.
scye.

to
is
to
is
fashionable waist I9y2 inches.
Vi inch.
to E is 40 inches full length. and E. Square out from F is half way between A and B.
to 3 is
%
%
I
of breast.
inch.
BCD
3 to 6
6 to ID
is
14 of waist. inch. 3^ inch

5
B to star dot is 34 inch. From the line inside of G

measure
19 inches.
8 to 9
to
is
is
half
of full breast
10 to II
is
D
to 3.
to 4
and 4 to
more than Vi of breast. is the same as from C

5 to get T. 13 pivoting at X.
to
and
to
is
usually 2J4 inches but clerical and military
should be 2 inches.
to
J to J to
N is 1%, inches. H is % breast measure.

is
Square down from Sweep from 12 to
H to J is 1-3 breast measure. K % inch. K to O is 34 breast measure.

O
THE
SKIRT.
to L is 1-12 breast measure. Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 11% inches plus 1V2 inches 13% inches.
Place square at line 10 to 14 and square down to 15. Shape the top of skirt as represented from 12 through
to 14
and 13. Square with
line
15.
O
Z
S
to to to
Z S
is
is
1-6 breast measure.

1-6 of breast.
Draw From
a line to
IS to
is
16.
is
16 34
of seat measure.
R is V2 From A to P P to Q is H
Draw
16 to 18
inc.h.
inch.
is
Vi inch
more than

1-6 of breast.
it
line
from
line
12 to 17
rounding
!4 inch at 18.
skirt
inch.
a line from Q to Measure the back from
R A
and shape the back.

to
Shape the front of from 17 to 19.
from
13 to
19
and the bottom
apply to
I.
And up
to
is
the strap
inch.
measure 11% inches
net.
to
THE COLLAR.
inch.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 34 i8'/4 inches. From G to 28 and J to Square out from X to 27.
Draw a line from 25 The width of collar

to 24
is
to 34 inch
is
iVi inches
below point 21. from 25 to 24 and 21
27 to 20 20 to 22
is is
V2
inch
inch.
more than
1-6 breast measure.
the same.
Finish as indicated.
31
PLATE
XII.
POLICE UNIFORM
This draft
is
COAT
11

-
Depth scye Natural waist

Fashionable waist Full length Strap
11
1>S
inches
inches
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
inches
inches inches
15>^ inches
...45
20
44.'4
14!4:
Waist
43
Square
lines
A E
and
24.
11 to 25 is
,'4
inch.
is
From A to B is 11 inches the depth A to C is natural waist IS inches.
scye.
to
.1
and
3 to 4
the
same
.
as from
to
Y and Y
to Z.
A A
B
to to
D
E
is is
fashionable waist 20 inches. 44 '4 inches full length.
Square down from 4

9 to 12
is
>'2
to get 5.
inch.
12 to 10 pivoting at X.

to star dot
is î Vz
BCD and E.
A
and B.
inch.
Sweep from
25 to 13
is
of breast measure.
At
go in Draw a line up
to 3
inch.
THE REVER.
to E.
to
F and down
From
measure
the line inside of
to
is
half of full
breast
H H
K
to
to
N K
22 J4 inches. is 1-6 of breast

is 1-3 is J4
Draw a line from 25 through 27 to 29. The rever is iy^ inches from 13 to 16.
25 to 26
27 to 28
is 4
is
measure.
inches.
of breast measure.
5 inches.
to J
inch
J
29 to 30
is
the same.
I is
half
way between
2)i inches.
and H.
Finish che rever as represented.

,
to to
M is ^
L
is
of breast measure.
THE
SKIRT.
Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 14 inches plus 1>^ inches, 15>^ inches. M to is 1-5 breast measure. to S is the same. 5 to R is % inch. From A to O is % inch more than 1-6 breast measure O
Place square at line 10 to 15 and .square down to 14. Shape the top of skirt as represented from 12 through
to 15, 16
and
13.
is ><
From
10 to 14
inch less than
of breast.
Square with
line 14.
17, 14 to 17 is
Draw
a line to
is
of seat.
to
line from P to R and shape the back. Measure the back from A to P Apply to I and uji to X the strap measure 14'+ inches
P is % Draw a
inch.
17 to IS
inch.
line
Curve the back sprmg
from
12
to 19,
rounding
it
inch as represented.
Dra\i' a line
net.
Draw
a line
is
om X
to F to get U.
U
(J
to
inch.
'4
Apply the ovenshoulder measure plus and J to V, 22 inches. .Square out from X to 23.
li to 21
is Yi
is
,'4
inch
from
to
from 13 to 20. Shape the front edge and bottom as indicated. The button line is 1 inch back of the side neck and inches from the front edge of the bottom. l',i The back skirts are ornamented with the side edges.
THE COLLAR.
This garment re(]uires a turndown collar as reinesentcd in the diagram. Square out from A B and A D
inch
more than
>s
breast measure.
X
X
C Y
to 22
of breast measure.
Draw a line from U to 21 to get gorge. to T is inch less than P to R.

,'4

to
to
is
is is
10 inches, half of collar.
scye.
Y
Z
A
A
E
to to
D
C
F
is Yt
inch.
IX
inches.
to
is
,'s
waist measure.
inches.
lyi inches.
line slightly
Z to 6
6 to 7
7
Curve the
to
from
to E.
is 14+
is
X
'-2
of waist.
is Yz
inch.
to 8
is \i
is
1
inch.
of waist.
5 to 10
H to G is the same. The leaf of collar is

Shape the
collar
2.'4
inches from
to
G.
10 to
is
the same.
and
33
PLATE
XIII.
34
FULL BOX OVERCOAT

This draft
is
produced by the following measurments with allowances.

1
Depth scye Waist leiiijth

inches inches
i8
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
21
inches inches
15%
43
Hip length
Full
25
inches
inches inches
to
length
44
13
Waist
Seat
40
44
Strap
Square
lines
A E
B
is
and
II
18.
From A
to
is is
inches depth scye.
A A A
F B
to to
to
18 inches waist length. hip length 25 inches.
Measure the distance from A to Q. Apply to'Z the strap measure 13 inches net. Draw a line from Z to 20 to get X.
and up
D
E
to
is
54 inch. 19 apply to
I
44 inches Square out from

is
is
BCD
A
inch.
full length.
half
way between
is
and E. and B.
Measure the back from B to overshoulder measure 2054 plus

15 to 14
is
and
for
54 inch 21
inches.
1-6 breast measure.
to
star dot
Draw
Z
a line
is
from 14 to
to get
<'nr<3;e.
From F
At C
to
to 20 is 1/16 of breast.
to 21
J4 inch less than
to T.
R
to
is
Draw a From B
line
go out 54 inch. from A to S.
Shape the gorge shoulder and armscye.

4 to 5
is
inch
more than
V2 waist measure.
is
half of full breast 21^2 inches.
G G G
L
to to
M
H
I
is
to 2J4 inches. 1-12 of breast.
is
the same.
Square down from 5 to 9 shape the front. Place square at line 4 "and square down to
3.
From
to J is 1-3 of breast.
is
J to
inch.
4 to 3 is 7^ inches. Square with line 3 to 6. From 6 to 3 is 1-3 seat measure.

is
J to
to
to to
to
is is
is is
V4 of breast.
6 to 7
sVj inches.
K
C
W
I
54 inch. 1-12 breast.
Draw
a line
from
to
8.
of waist.
Sweep from 2 Sweep from 8

Shape the
side
i
to 8 pivoting at O. to 9, pivoting at Z.
V
L
is
^
line
inch-
Draw
to U.
to to
and square down from V to get W. from O. through to 2 and up from L
and bottom.
U
T
is is
J^ inch
more than
I
1-6 breast.
THE COLLAR.
Draw
12 to
II
U
to I
Vi inch.
Square up from
and apply the blade measure from J
a creased line
II
is is
from
10 to
11.
13% plus iVz inches i5'/4 inches. From A to P is 14 more than 1-6 breast measure. P to Q is s/s inch. Draw a line from Q to T and shape the back.
1%
inches.
to
13
2 inches.
iî inches.
16 to 17
is
Shape the collar and finish as represented.
35
PLATE
XIV.
36
BELL BOTTOM FRENCH OVERCOAT

This draft
is

liVi inches
i8
Depth scje
Natural waist
inches inches
inches inches
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
21
inches
inches
15%
44 42
45
Fashionable waist.. 20
Hip length
Full
26
Waist
Seat
length
50
Strap
13!^ inches
Square
lines
is
to
Z and
to E.
to
is
1-12 of breast.
I
A
C
to
is
11%
Square up from
to
W.
i3'/2
A
10
the natural waist length 1854 inches. to D is the fashionable waist length 20^ inches.
is
Measure distance from A to Q. Apply to I and for strap measure Draw a line from to F to get U.
inches net.
A
B F
to
is
SO inches
is
full
length.
to
is
inch.
Square out from B

to the star dot
is
C D
10
and E.
inch.
half
way between
in
and B.
Square out from Measure from G Apply to J and
through
to 20.
to Y.
for overshoulder
measure
205.^4
plus
At C go
inch.
%
through 10 to
24.
inch 21 inches.
Draw a line up to F and down to i B to G is 1/4 inch. G to H is half of breast 22 inches.
20 to 21
is
1-6 breast measure.
H
N
to
to
N O
is is
2J4 inches. the same.
from 20 to U to get gorge. VV to T is % inch less than Q to R. Shape gorge shoulder and arm scye.
Draw
a line
3 to 5 to 15
is is is is is
%
V4
I
waist measure.
inch less than
1-3 of breast.
Square down from
and up
to Z.
4 to 3
2 to 4
H K K
L
to
K
L
is is
Vs of breast.
inch.
to J to
to
%
I
inch.
6 to 7
7 to 8
Vs of seat.
is
is
54 of breast. inch.
3%
inches.
12.
Draw
a line from 4 through 8 to
Square down from J to get 6. Apply the blade measure from G to J i,s% plus iVa inches isVi inches and square up from J. Draw a line up from L and down from M to 9.
g to II
is
is
Shape the front from 20 to 16. Sweep from 13 to 12, pivoting at L. Sweep from 12 to 14, pivoting at W.
14 to 15
is
i!4 inches.
Vz
inch.
to
X
S

J4 of breast.
to
is
is
THE COLLAR.
1-6 of breast.
S to
Vs inch.
to P P to Q Draw a
is
is
inch
more than
Draw
a creased line
is I
is
from
16 to 17.
5^ inch.
11
18 to 17
17 to 19
'A inches.
line from Q to R. Shape the back pressing square on the point 2 and
2 inches.
22 to 23
is
iVi inches.
collar
to 13.
Shape the
and
37
PLATE XV.
Tkis diagram represents tKe
first
French Bell Overcoat introduced
in this
country, and appeared in one of
38
FLOWING FRENCH PALETOT

This draft
is
produced
ll
the
folli
Depth scye
Natural waist
iS
Fashionable waist.. 20 26 Hip length

Full
length
52
Strap
Sqiiare lines
12%
inches
to
F and A
to 18.
A
C
to
is
is
II
the natural waist length 18 inches.
A A A
B
to
D
E F
IS is is
fashionable waist length 20 inches.

to to
52 inches
full
length.
Square out froin

to star dot
is
B C D E
ami
F.
is
inch.
G G
At
half
is
way between
and
B.
to 20
C and D go in % inch. Draw a line up to G and down to From the line inside of H to I
measure 21 inches.
I I
I,
through 8 and
half of
full
F.
is
breast
to J is 1-12 of breast. to to
is
is is
1-3 of breast.
%
I
inch.
O
L
half
way between
14 of breast
is
to K.
to to
M
N
U
T
is
measure.
inch.
Square down from

ZJ to
is
to 10
and np
to
to 27.
V2 inch.
to
is
1-12 of breast.
Square up and down from K and apply the blade measure from H to K 131/2 plus iVi inch 15 inches. A to R is Vi inch more than 1-6 breast measure.
to
S to U and shape the back. Measure the back from A to S. Apply to J and up to Y the strap measure 12% inches
Draw
is Vi inch. a line from
net.
Draw
to
a line
from
to 20 to get
VU
54
and
27.
is
fi inch.
i'T-"h
to ig
Apply the overshoulder measure plus and K to X 20% inches.
from
39
PLATE
XVI.
40
FRENCH SURTOUT
This draft
is
produced by the following measureinents with allowances.

lo'/i
Depth
scye
inches
Natural waist .... iSli inches Fashionable waist .20% inches

Full
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
20V2 inches
14%
41
inches
inches inches
length
52
13
inches inches
Waist
36
Strap
Square
lines
A E
and
Z.
Draw
a line
from
to 22 to get gorge.
',
From A to B is I0}4 the depth scye. A to C is natural waist 18% inches, A to D is fashionable waist 20^ inches.
X
C
to
U
is is is
is
54 inch less than
to R.
scye.

to 2
is
inch.
to
is
52 inches
full
length.
2 to 4 4 to 9 7 to
1-6 of waist.
BCD and
A
inch.
E.
}4 of waist.
and B.
i}i inch.
From F to Q B to star dot

At
%
is
11 to 12 is
of waist.
to S
is
54 inch.
D
to E.
to 3
and 3
the
same
as
from
X.
to 2
and 2 to
4.
go
in
inch.-
Draw From
3 line
up to F and down
Square down from 5 to get 6. Sweep from D to 16, pivoting

half of
full
at
the line inside of
to
is
breast
16 to 21
is
Vi inch.
measure 20% inches.
N is 1-6 of breast measure. H is % of breast measure. H to K is 1-3 of breast measure. J to K is % inch. K to M is 34 of breast measure.
to
I
THE REVER.
Draw
a line
to
from
12 through 25 to 27.
is
The width
12 to 24
is
of rever
2 inches
from
16 to 20.
4 inches. 25 to 26 is 4'4 inches.

27 to 28
is 3V2 inches. Finish the rever as represented.
M
M
T
to
is
5^ of breast
measure.
Square up and down from J and apply blade measure from G to J 12% plus 1% inches 14% inches.
to
T
S
is
1-6 breist measure.
THE
Place square at line
13 to 14
is
is
SKIRT.
and
14
to
is
the same.
11,
13
and square down
to 15.
R is % inch. From A to O is J4 O to P is ^ inch.

S to
2 inches.
i]/2
i"ch
more than
1-6 of breast.
to 29
inches.
Shape the lop

14 to 20.
of skirt as represented
from 29 through
from P to R and shape the back. Measure the back from A to P. Apply to I and up to X the strap measure 13 inches Draw a line from X to 30 to get V.
Draw
a line
From
net.
II
to 15
is
9 inches.
15.
Square with
line
Draw
a line to 17
is
from
15 to 17
is
2-3 of seat.
V
31
to
is
inch.
17 to 19
inch.
line
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 2oyo inches. and J to Square out from X t'^ Y. Y to 22 is % inch more than 1-6 of
inch from
to
it
from 29
to
18,
rounding
30.
breast.
Square down the front edge of skirt from 20 to Finish the front edge and bottom as represented.
41
PLATE
XVII.
Dip Front Frencn Surtout, Full Bell
Skirt.
Reproduction or diagram from tne Americanized French Cutting Method, giving the prospective subscriber an idea or the style produced by this method.
42
PADDOCK
This draft
is
Depth scye
Natural waist
Fashionable waist..
Full length
I0% 17% 19%

50
13V4,
inches
inches
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
2oV4 inches
13%
40
38
inches inches
Waist
Strap
inches
Square
lines
A E
is
and
20.
Square out from

24 to
to 21.
From A A to C
to
is
is
lO-M inches depth scye.
21 at 22 is 1-6 breast
measure.
measure.
to 22 to get gorge.
A A
to to
D
E
natural waist I7J4 inches. fashionable waist 19% inches.
is
J4 breast
Draw
a line
from
is
50 inches full length.
BCD
A
X
C
to
W
V
IS
%
I
inch less than
to R.
scye.
and E. and B.
full

to
is
1-6 of waist.
inch.
B to star dot is 54 inch. From B to G is half of
V
breast measure.
to 4 is
to 6
is is is
to
M
N
G
I is
is
1-6 of breast.
M
H
G
to
to
is IS
i^
inches.
6 to 7 8 to 9
% of waist. % inch.
%
line
of waist.
is
^^ breast
measure.
9 to 10
is
iJ4 inches, 23 to 24
the creased line.
to J
is
Vs of breast. inch.
to
U
<a
is
the
J to
is half way between L to J. Square up and down from I and apply blade measure from B to I 12^4 plus 1 54 inches, 1354 inches.
K
L
Draw From Draw

it
same as from C from U to get 3.

is
to
and
6 to 13
a line
5 to
is
Vs breast measure. 13 to 5 for the top of skirt
from
14.
and shape
from
to to
T
S
is
1-6 breast measure. Vi inch less than 1-6 breast measure.
5 to II
J/i
inch.
is
R is ^ inch. From A to O is J4 O to P is % inch.

S to
i"ch
more than
1-6 breast.
Sweep from 11 to 12, pivoting at X. Square down from 12 to 19 for the front Place square at line 8 and square down to
edge.
14.
From Draw
8 to 14
is
1-3 of breast.
14.
a line from P to R and shape the back. Measure the back from A to P. Apply to H and up to X the strap measure 13% inches
Draw
Square with
16 to 18
is
line
a line to 15
'A
from
14 to 16 is Vi of seat
measure.
V2
inch.
line
net.

a line
from
5 to 17,
rounding
it
Draw
from
inch.
to
to get Y.
Y Q
to
is
Finish the front edge and bottom as illustrated.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus and I to Z 2o;4 inches.
inch
from B
to
43
PLATE
XVIIl.
44
FRENCH ULSTER
This draft
is
produced by the follow ing measurements with allowances.
Depth scye
Natural waist
ii%
i8
inches inches inches inches inches

inches
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
21
inches
15%
44
41
inches
inches
Fashionable waist .20
Hip length
Full
25
_
Waist
Seat
inches
inches
length
54
i3'/2
45
Strap
Square
lines
is
1
1
A F
and
25.
to
is
inch.
A
C A E
to
is
14 inches
depth scye.
natural waist length 18 inches. is fashionable waist len.sfth 20 inches. to
Apply the overshoulder measure plus 30 and K to X 21 inches. Square out from Y to 26.
26 to 24
is
inch from
to
is
1-6 breast measure.
A
B
to
is
full
length 54 inches.
Draw
F.
1
Square out from

to star dot
is
is
B C D E and
}i inch.
from to 24 to get gorge. Shape the gorge shoulder and arm scye.
a line
to 2
is
1-3 of breast
measure.
is
half
way between
in
and B.
to
I,
i
2 to 4
3 to 5
is y^
is
is
inch and 7 to 8
the same.
At C go
inch.
waist measure.
Draw From
measure.
I
a line
up to
and down
through 9
half of
to 17.
5 to 6
2Vi inches.
the line inside of
to
is
full
breast
Square
line
down from
at line 3
is
10 to get
16.
Place square
is
to
to
254 inches.
to
From
is
3 to II
1-3
II.
and square down of brenst measure.

11
to
11.
P and P
is
the same.
Square with
line
1 I
to J to

1-3 breast
Draw Draw
a line to 12
is
from
10
to
12
is
1-3 of seat
measure.
K
L
L is to L is
measure.
12 to 13
3V2
inches.
%
I
inch.
a line
from
through 13 to
14.
to
to
M
N
is
is
Vi breast
measure.
inch.
Sweep from Sweep from

18 to 15
is
16 to 17, pivoting at Z.
17 to 18, pivoting at Y.
Square up and down from K and apply blade measure from H to K 13^ plus i^ inches 1554 inches. and down from N to 12. Draw a line up from
1/4 inches.
15 to 19 is the same.
The width
M
Z
to to to
is is

54 breast
of lapel is 4 inches from 28 Shape the front edge and bottom.
to 27.
measure.
inch
1-6 breast
T is 2 inch. From A to R is % R to S is % inch.

Draw
more than
measure.
THE COLLAR.
Draw
a creased line
a line from S to T and shape the back. Measure the distance of back from A to S. Apply to J and up to Y the strap measure. i3'/4 inches
from 20
to 21.
21 to 22 is
1%
inch.
23 to 21 28 *o 29
IS
is
2 inches.
net.
the same.
Draw
a line
from
to
to get
W.
Sliape the collar and finish as indicated.
45
PLATE
XIX.
46
INVERNESS
This draft
is

ii

Full
inches inches
17
Overshoulder Blade
Breast
21
inches
14%
40
37
inches inches
inches
24 52
inches
inches
length
Waist
Seat
2 to 6
Strap
13V2 inches
42
l}4 inches
inches
Square
lines
A F
and
U.
A A A
E
to
G
B
to 1-6 breast measure.

is is
to
II inches
depth of scye.
is J4 waist measure. Place square at line 3 to 2 and square down to Z. From 2 to Z is 1-3 breast measure 6V> inches.
more than
to
is
D
F C
waist length 17 inches. 52 inches

}^ breast
full length.
Square with
line Z.

is
A D
to
to
Draw a From Z
8 to 9
is
line to 8.
to
I
is
1-3 seat
measurr
is
measure.
inch.
G B C D E and F. B to star dot is % inch. Draw a line from A to 11. II to F is 1-12 breast measure. From B to H is half of breast measure
Square out from
to
is is
J4 inch.
V2 inch.
5 to
Draw
20 inches.
a line
Shape the
diagram.
side
from 4 through 9 to 10. seam from 5 through

12 to 10. pivoting at
4.
to
ab
ahown
in
H
L
to
is
is
J4 breast.
half
way between B and

1-6 breast measure.
I.
Sweep from Sweep from
10 to
14,
pivoting at T.
M
L
to to
is is
2 inches.
i/^
14 to 30 is 154 inches. Finish the front edge as represented.
to J is
of breast measure.
Draw
from M up to N and down to 12. Square up and down from K and apply blade measure
a line
THE COLLAR.
Draw
a line
is is
14M inches with allowances. ch more From A to O is 'A

ii
from 20 to
19.
than 1-6 breast.
19 to 20
10 inches, half of collar.
to
is
5^ inch.
P.
20 to 23
i^
inches. inches.
Measure the back from A to Apply to J and up to T the

net.
20 to 22
is is
2%
the
strap
measure 13% inches
21 to 24
same
as 20 to 22.
collar.
This coat has a turn down uniform

Finish the collar as indicated.
Draw
a line
from
to
to get R.
Apply the overshoulder measure plus and K to S, 21 inches. Square out from T to V.
inch from
to
THE
The cape
length
CAPE.
arplyi'ig
length
is
obtained
the
inside
sea
"i
to
is
Vs breast
measure.
1-6 breast measure.
19 inches
from
to 28
to
7.
i.
to IS
is is is
V2 inch
more than
as
15 to 16
M
the
inch.
Sweep forward The front edge

front of forepart.
and from 28 to
pivoting at
i
of c.ipe comes to within
inch of the
T to R Draw a
line
same from
to
Q.
scye.
to 15.
Finish cape as illustrated.
Shape the gorge shoulder and arm Cut out Vz inch V from 17 to 18.
to to
X
Y
is is
5/2
waist measure.
the same.
47
PLATE XX.
48
VESTS
The
vests are
drafted
just
the
same
as
the coats, but with the
exception of only opening
full
length
side
and back.
FRENCH WAIST COAT

The measurements
Opening
Full
are produced as follows
13 inches
Back length
Breast
19 inches
length
28 inches
23 inches
36 inches
Side
length
Waist
a
a line
is
inches
Square
lines
is
A D
and
O.
Draw
from
54
to
to get P.
A
C
to
is
9%
inches.
17 inches waist length.
X From N N
to
inch.
is
to
is
I
'A inch less
than from
to P.
A
E
B
S
to
D
S
is
19 inches back length.
to
inch.
is half way between A and B. Square out from B, C and D.
Shape the back shoulder and arm scye. From T to U is I inch more th^n half
from
of
waist and
inch
to
is
^
2%
inch.
V
to
to
is
the same.
to to
is
is is
half of breast inches.
measure 18 inches.
G.
M
A
and
to
to
is
the opening
12 plus
13
mches.
half
way between S and

from
I
From
and
through
to
is
full
length
1-6 breast measure. H to H to J is the same. A to L is 1-6 breast measure. L to M 5^ inch.

is
is
Draw From
a line
to R.
26J/2 plus lyi
inches 28 inches.
Shape the opening from from G through Y and W, From A to M and N to

I
X
R
to
G and
the side
the
front
edge
is
length 22 plus
inch 23 inches.
to
is
Vs breast measure.
Shape the sides and bottom from

to
to
W.
a line from K to get N. Apply the strap measure from A
Draw
inches.
and
to
N, 11%
49
PLATE
XXI.
50
DOUBLE BREASTED VEST

The measurements
are produced as follows, with the exception of onl'-
l%
ircbps to be added half breast measure:

19
Opening
Full length
21
Back length
Breast
27
235/<
37
Side length
Waist
33
Square
lines
is
A D
and
O.
C
is
I
to
is
inch.
A
C
to
is
9%
inches.
Shape the back shoulder and armscye.

inch
to
From T
to
17 inches waist length.
A
E
to
is
is
19 J4, inches back length.
more than half of X is % more than
waist.
half of waist measure.

to
l
A and B. Square out from B, C and D. B to S is J4 inch. S to F is half of breast measure i&'A
half
way between
Distance
to
M
is
apply
down
to
opening
20, plus
inch, 21 inches.
And down Y
inches.
25^
inches, plus
iH
inches 27 inches.
to
is is
2%
inches.
X Y
to
to
is
is
4 inches.
2 inches.
to 3
is
;4 inch.
H
H
A
L F
half
way between S and

through 1-6 breast measure. the same. 1-6 breast measure.
5^ inch.
G.
Draw
to
I
a line
is
from
to R.
Shape the opening from N through G to i and front edge from i to Z. inch and N to R is the side length 22^^ plus A to
23'/2 inches.
J to to
to
to
H
L
is is is
is
Shape the sides and bottom from
to
and
Z.
N K
LAPEL.
breast measure.
Draw
a line from
K
N
to get N.
Apply the strap measure from

12 inches net.
to
and
to
is
F F
to 2
is
2%
inches.
to 4
is
is
iJ4 inches.
5 to 6
inch.
Draw
a line
from
to
to get P.
Finish collar and lapel as represented.
51
PLATE
^
6
XXII.
52
VEST FOR CORPULENT FORM

The measuremeiits
are produced as follows with the exception the addition of the fat recede at front of waist
Opening
Full
i6
inches
Back length
Breast
23
inches
inches
length
length
32
inches
48
so
Side
28 V2 inches
Waist
inches
Square
lines
A D
and
O.
to
is
the same.
front center line
inch.
is
A
C
to
is
B is 11% inches. 20% inches waist
The normal
length.
from F
to
W.
V
30^
to
is I
A
E E
to
is
D
half
is
23 inches back length.
Measure distance
opening 15% plus
i
to
M.
Apply
to
G down
to
to
way between
Vs inch.
and B.
inch
16%
inches,
and down
to
is
inches plus ij4 inches 32 inches full length.
Square out from B, C and D. B to F is half of breast measure 24 inches.
Shape the opening from

edge from
through to
and
front
through
X
R
to Y.
is
to
is
is
2J4 inches.
A
to G.
I
to
and
to
the side length 27'/2 inches plus
H H
A
L F
.
half
way between B
from
inch
28%
is
inches.
Draw
to
a line
I
is
to R.
Shape the
sides
and bottom from
5 to
Y.
1-6 breast measure.
to 4
?4 inch and 5 to
is
the same.
J to
to to
to
H
L
is
the same.
1-6 breast measure.
is is is
After cutting the forepart cut the pocket from U to i. Square down to 3 and overlap from 3 to 2 for throwing
fullness
to
M
K
inch.
the
stomach or take out
inch
in
the
Draw
Ji breast measure. to get N. a line from
pocket.
Apply the strap measure from
to
M
to P.
and
to
is
THE COLLAR.
G
to 6
is 4I/2 is is
I
14V2 inches net. Draw a line from
to
to get P.
inches.
N
C
to
to
Q T
is is
Vi inch less than
from
6 to 8 8 to 7
inch.
%
U
inch.
scye.
the same.
Shape the back shoulder and arm
From T
to
is
inch
more than
half of waist.
inch. 9 to 10 is Finish collar as represented.
53
PLATE
XXIII.
54
FULL DRESS VEST

The measurements
are
produced
as
follows
20
27
with
the exception of only
1%
inch to be added half at breast measure:
Opening
Full length
inches
Back length
Breast
19%
38 34
inches inches
inches
inches inches
Side length
24
Waist
Square
lines
is
A D
and
O.
N
C
to to
A
C
to
is
9J4 inches. 17 inches waist length.

is
Q T is
is
I
Vi inch less than
from
to P.
inch.
A E
to
igl4 inches back length.
is half way between A and B. Square out from B, C and D. B to S is Vi inch. S to F is half of breast measure 19 inches.
to
is
is
ij^ inches.
half
way between S and

from
G.
Shape the back shoulder and arm scye. to U is I inch more than half of waist. V to X is % inch more *''^n half of waist. Distance A to M. Apply N to X down to opening 19 plus I inch 20 inches and down to Z is 25 plus 1V2 inch 26'/4 inches. Shape the opening and front edge as indicated. A to M and N to R is the side length 221/2 plus I inch
From T
Draw
a line
I
to R.
23 '/2 inches.
H
A
to
is
1-6 breast measure.
J to
to
H
L
is
is
the same.
1-6 breast measure.
THE COLLAR.
Y X A
to to 2 to
1
L to M is % inch. F to K is Vb breast measure. Draw a line from K to get N.

Apply the
inches net.
strap,
is
5%
I
inches.
is is
4}i inches.
4 to 3
measure from
and
to
12
to
inches.
J^
inch.
is
Draw
a line
from
to
to get P.
6 to 5 is f^ inch. Finish the collar as represented.
55
PLATE XXIV.
56
THE EASY METHOD

TROUSERS
The measurements
Outside length ....41
Inside length ....32
'4 inches
are as follows
Seat
40 20
16
inches
inches inches
Knee
Bottom
inches inches
Waist
Square
lines
is
34
A B A
N.
THE BACKPART.
Extend
all
is
A
B
to
to
is
B C
the outside length.
the lines.
seat.
is
the inside length.
F
B.
D
C E
to 3
2 inches less than half

lines out
is is is
way between C and
Square
to to
from
A
F
3 to 4 is
% %
Yz
inch.
B C D.
is
Z
I
to
is
Vs of seat.
inch.
to
J^ seat.
H
E
seat,
to 2
is
to
inch.
J to
G E
is
half
E is the same. way between F to C.

J4 inch I to
is
to
through Z i Shape seat seam as represented. Z to Y is 54 waist.

a line from
Draw
M.
1-6 seat.
Draw
line
from
through
Y
to N.
to
is
2 inches.
top,
Shape the
making
the
N Q
S
V %
is
inch wide.
i
Q is V4 inch. to O is % waist, P is half way between O Draw line from H through I to K.

to
F X
and Q.
seat.
to 4 the
straight line
inch
more than
K
S
to 6
to
is is
V2 inch
I
U
L
to 7
to
is is
the same. the same.
to
is
L
half
is
J4
inch less than
5^2
of bottom.
inch
way between L and K.

Vi of knee.
to
is
is
half
way between T
to
U.
Shape the outside seam dress front and inside seam as

represented.
57
PLATE XXV.
58
THE PEG TOP TROUSERS

The measurements
Outside
length are as follows
.40
inches
inches
Seat
38
23
16
inches
inches inches
Inside length
30^2 inches
34
Knee
Bottom
Waist
Square
lines
A B A
B
is
M.
THE BACKPART.
B
to
From
30'/2
to
40 inches outside length.

half
is
inches inside length.

is
Extend
all
the cross lines.

seat, 7 to 6
is Vi,
D
C E
2 inches
more than
from
seat,
way between C and

f
B.
Square
to
lines out
is
to
is
E F
is }/^ seat,
C D and B. E to is ^ inch. F to H is % inch.

I
From F to 7 is ^ Draw a line from

I
inch.
13 to
i.
to 2
is
%
is
inch.
G
E
half
way between F and
C.
K
to
Shape seat seam as represented. Z to Y is '/2 waist.
Square up from
to to
is
to
and
is
inch,
5
Y
is
to
2 inches.
top,
is
is
1-6 seat
}/2
and L
Shape the
making
the
to 13
is
}4 inch.
V %
inch wide,
from 4
to
N
P C
waist.
^
to
inch.
is
half
way between
seat.
and O.
3 to 5
the same.
is
U is 1-6 U to V is %
to
is
I
V
T
W
is
!^ of seat.
inch. inch,
to 14 is ij^ inches.
C to T Draw a
J to
D
through S to
J.
to
,9
inch.
inch.
S to 8
is
the same. the same.
line froin
is
J to 10
is I
to 12
is
K
D
;4 inch less
R
S
is
half
is
way
J/2
than V2 of bottom. between J and K.
to
of knee and
to
is
5 inches.
Finish forepart as represented.
59
PLATE XXVI.
60
THE CORPULENT FORM

TROUSERS
The measurements
Outside length
Inside length
are as follows
38 inches
25 inches
Seat
56 inches
22 inches
18 inches inside
Waist
Square
lines
is
is
56 inches
Knee Bottom
A B
and
M.
as
Shape the outside seam dress front and

represented.
seam
A
B
to to
is
B r
the outside length. the inside length.
D
C E E F
2 inches less than half

lines out
is is
is
way between C and

B.
B.
THE BACKPART.
Extend
all
is is is is
Square
to
from
C D and
E
I
to to to
is
% seat. % inch. ^ seat.

I
the cross lines.
F
Z
I
to 6
^
I
of seat.
inch.
6 to 5
to
I
H
a
is
inch for large forms instead of 5^ inch.

to
3 inches.
2!/2
G
E
half
Draw
and from
to
way between 11 and H. line up and down from G through P

through
to 2
inches.
3,
G
is
R
E
a line from 2 through i Z to L. Shape seat seam as represented.
Draw
Z
to to
to S.
1-6 of seat.
is is
%
top,
waist.
Draw
a line
from
up through
and N.
Y
O V
C
2 inches.
the same.
M
Q
to
to
Q is % inch. O is % waist,
N
is
3 to 4
is
and
is
half
way between
Shape the
to
making the
V %
inch wide.
and Q.
W
is
is
iVz inch.
M
P
to
3^4 inches.
2 inches.
to 12 is }4 inch.
to 3
to II
is
is
U
T
to 8 to 7
to
V2 inch.
C
S
J to
is
is
^ %
is
the same.
is
I
inch.
inch less than
of bottom.
10
is
inch.
half
way between
J and K.
J to 9
the same.
'
i
to
us V5 of knee.
Shape as represented.
61
PLATE
XXVII.
62
RIDING BREECHES
The measurements
Waist
Seat 36 40
inches inches
are as follows:
Full
length
33
inches
Length
i6y2 inches
Knee Knee band

16 to 17
is
155^ inches
i^yi inches
V4 inch
THE FOREPART.
Square
lines
more than
and 4
waist.
is
A B
and
E.
A A A D
F
C is the inside length to to Z is the knee band. to B is the outside length.

to to
the knee.
A X
to 4 to 10
to 15 to 13
is
is is is is
lyi inches
to 6
the same.
2 inches.
V
S
2%
3%
1%
inches.
3 inches,
and
to 11
is
the same.
Z up
to to
D
is is
is
is
the inside length.
to 9
inches.
10.
Square the
lines out
from
A D
W
is
i
C Z and
D.
Shape the outside seam from 4 through

to 9.
15
and
13,
12
F G
2 seat.
1-12 seat.
J/^
to 14
to
is is
is
inches.
G
E
to
seat
and
to
inch.
Square up from F
to J
is
I
to E.
U R
P
the same.
Vz inch.
to 12
to 10
to
is
is
the same.
inch.
is
From
J
to
J to 7
1-6 seat.
7 to
M
H
and
I.
inch.
Shape the front and dress through J and
Shape the
to
8.
inside
seam from
through
14.
12
and
10
K
Y
is
!^ waist
is
I
to
17
is
i^
inch.
inches.
J to
Shape the top from Y L is half way between
Shape the top and V as represented. The buttons and button holes are located by the black spots in the side seam line below S and 13. and G.
to 17.
to
is
inch.
FOREPART CUFF.
Calf Bottom
12 14
Square down from E to M. Shape the inside seem from

to
through
1-3
T R
and
P
Square
lines
is
1
Calf
M.
to
From R from P to
S
is
is
Vi
inch
Q
is
Vi
inch
more than more than 1-3
of knee,
and
to
A B
inch.
and
C.
of knee band.
C
S
to to to to
to
G
F B F B
M
is
to
inch and
to
is
5 inches
and
the same.
A A
G
is
is is
the same.
the length of cuff.
Finish the forepart as represented,
is
% %
inch
inch
more th^n more than

is
1-3 of calf.
1-3 of calf
bottom.
THE BACKPART.
Extend
I
Between
to
l^
inches V.
all
is
the cross lines.
BACKPART CUFF.
A
C E
to L, to to
to 2
Vg seat.
Square up from
through 3 to 5. seat and 3 to 5 is % inch. From L to 3 is Shape the seat seam from 5 through 7 to 2 as repre-
F
is is
to
and
to
is
2 inches.
H K
2 inches J4
and G to I is the same. i"ch and K to J is ^ inch.
sented.
Finish the cuff as represented.
63
PLATE
XXVIII.
Proportion Table for Trousers
Waist
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The Americanized French Cutting Method

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Class

This simple method

given by short measures.

correct proportions of sizes

for drafting the various up-to-date styles of

eight different diagrams in this text book,

Table of Coat Proportions

Double Breasted Sack

The Corpulent Form Sack

Bon Jour Coat

The Corpulent Form Cutaway

Coat "Day Coat"

Flowing French Paletot

42-43 44-45 4^-47

Double Breasted Vest

Full Dress Vest

Easy Method Trousers

The Peg Top Trousers

The Corpulent Form Trousers

the history of the

American pubhc has

the necessity of an "Americanized-

Cutting " been so imperative to cutters as at the present

the competitive spirit of the age that supreme

simple method of easy cutting

the best system in every

prohibits the cutter from troubling

and up-to-date method.

knowledge, a manual of study and a work of reference; and while

from exact mathematics.

garment cutting without the aid of

are several reasons for the existence

the greatest reason

repeated request of cutters who,

fascinating hours in the study of successful cutting

have now been cutting

America about twenty-four

cutting in France, using the French

and used the same system by inches (one inch

equal to two and a half centimeters), continuing

the present time.

be no mistake made and

when you once thoroughly understand

methods give the best

easy to adopt and eminently practical.

a careful, attentive study of

result will follow

as certain as a correct result follows true calculations in mathematics.

that the cutters of

have the pleasure

have performed a work that

and sincerely hope

the ordinary division square.

First place the square

under the right

and on each side

arms neither too

making a chalk mark above top

back and across the center seam.

bone or the point above

necessary for the seam of coat collar to come.

get the waist length:

around the natural waist and mark

with the arm,