7TH Ed TRAVEL GUIDE

BOTSWANA
Vital tips for visitors Best places to stay, eat and shop Star-rated top attractions Detailed regional profiles Essential area and transport maps Best tours and excursions
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CONTENTS
1. Introducing Botswana
The Land History in Brief Government and Economy The People

5
6 14 20 25

5. The Tuli Block and Eastern Botswana

The Tuli Block Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area Mashatu and Northern Tuli Game Reserves Solomons Wall and the Granite Hills Towns of Eastern Botswana

67
67

68 71 71 74

2. Gaborone and Surrounds

Gaborone Along the Francistown Road West of Gaborone Southwest of Gaborone

31
32 37 39 40

6. The Central Kalahari

The Central Kalahari Game Reserve Serowe Khutse Game Reserve

79
79 82 83

3. The Southern Kalahari

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park Ghanzi The Western Woodlands

45
45 49 49

7. Chobe National Park

Kasane The River Frontage Nogatsaa and Tchinga Savuti Linyanti Kazungula Victoria Falls

89
90 92 94 95 100 102 103

4. The Makgadikgadi Pans

Francistown North of Francistown Sua Pan The Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan National Park The Baobab Trail Nxai Pan

53
54 56 57 61 62 64

8. The Okavango Delta

Maun Moremi Game Reserve The Central and Southern Okavango The Panhandle, Tsodilo and Western Okavango

107
108 111 115 116

Travel Tips 122 Index 127

2 Gaborone and Surrounds

NAMIBIA

s one of Africas fastest growing cities, Gaborone, Botswanas capital, is a vibrant, colourful metropolis. Due to its phenomenal growth from an obscure village in the early 1960s to home to almost 500,000 people in just 40 years, Gaborone has neither a long history nor an established traditional African character, as other African cities such as Dar es Salaam and Nairobi do. But Gaborone still provides all the facilities you would expect to find in any modern city. The tiny administrative village of Gaberones (literally Gaberones place) was selected in 1964 as the site of the countrys new capital primarily because of its reliable water supply, its strategic location and its proximity to the Cape to Cairo railway line. The city is named after Chief Gaberone who lead the Batlokwa tribe into the area in the 1880s. They settled in Tlokweng, the first urban area you reach when driving into the city from the South African border post 20km (12 miles) to the east. In the early 1890s a colonial fort was built by Rhodess British South Africa Company in the area now known as The Village near Tlokweng. It was from here that the unsuccessful Jameson Raid was launched by Cecil John Rhodes in December 1895, sparking the Boer War. At the time there was little more than a handful of buildings in the area. When Botswana gained independence from Britain on 30 September 1966, Gaborone had just the administrative essentials and a mere 1000 new homes. Two years later it was declared a city and has continued to grow at a rapid pace ever since.

Kasane Shakawe

ZIMBABWE
Maun
Rakops Nata

Francistown

Ghanzi

BOTSWANA Serowe
Kang Hukuntsi Letlhakeng Kanye

Selebi-Phikwe Palapye Mahalapye GABORONE

Lobatse

Molepolole

SOUTH AFRICA

D ON T M ISS

Mokolodi Game Reserve: elephant-back encounters, giraffe tracking, cheetah visits and horseback safaris. Tracking rhino through the Mokolodi Hills. Gaborone Game Reserve: for a barbecue breakfast. Matsiengs footprints and rock engravings Gaborone Dam: perfect for fishing or picnicking. National Museum and Art Gallery: Botswana baskets and other exhibitions. A climb up Kgale Hill. Shopping: Game City and River Walk.

Opposite: A regal Seretse Khama in front of the parliament buildings.

31

GABORONE AND SURROUNDS

BROADHURST / AIRPORT / AIRPORT JUNCTION MALL

Gaborone
Ma

Phuduhudu

No Matata Shopping Centre S

ne

KAGISO MALL

Letlhalerwa Sebalabolokwane

Shaushawane Ntseane

Seleka Gomoti

Thutlw a

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GABORONE GAME RESERVE

Driv

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Les

M or

Dina

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Marakane lo

Thakad
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Tsheke di

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FALCON CREST
Pela

Dassie Leopard

and

Northside School
Dove Tshekedi Nare Tau Zebra

on M

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East e

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Kgala gadi

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Julius Nyerere Drive

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Central Business District

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Maitisong Theatre
Eland

Wes te

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N o rt h

Kgokong

R
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Phuti Kgori Phuti Phiri Manong Phiri Phala Nkwe Phala

Rhinoceros

Maru-a-Pula School

ve

nu

Kgari
Moremi

Maruapula

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Nswazwi Ikaneng Sebele

2nd
TO GAME CITY SHOPPING MALL / MOLAPO CROSSING MALL

Com mer cia

Kha

ma

Cr

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State House

a an ng i Mo ola seb a Thornhill R

a bin Se

Phologolo
Buffalo Tshepe Hospital

H GABORONE SUN
Gaborone Golf Club

Red Cross
Tsheko

Hospital

Com 1st me r cia

Office of the President National Assembly Government Enclave

ent Dr.

Mole

polole

te Sta

adi dikg Maka Dr. Immigration

Mengwe

School

Par liam

Old M o

Khwai

Seb oko

GABORONE

Mmaraka
Orapa House

Marlborough

Department of Surveys and Mapping

Moapare

Se

on Mog

da

M op h

Kga lad ua

alo

Water Utilities Corporation

Morula
Mokala
Mokala

Moylopi

la

ogo

i lor

Old Lobatse

Haile Se lassie

Luthuli

Ma t sa

Dr

Bontleng
Do

Ke

akgan

Madirelo

ng

Hippopot amus

ta ala Kw a am Kuk itse P

Giraffe

Modisa

Brown

Botswana a Polytechnic

nd

Molam u

Mo

Malo

Ma

pe

Bontleng mbas School ale haba Phokoje Kg

e

tsi

Fla

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Fire Station

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African

Me raf e
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Av

Th Dithap Lesedi ob eg o School Ra Mo Mala a tsh shw u osa a nzie Macke g g Rin Madi

Sedibelo

ch

ere

Station

Ka

un

Dilalelo

Maherero

Kabelo

Gaborone Railway Station

aC Kham ono

BRACKENDENE Mathangwane Thebe Basin LODGE Selemela Ntogwa H TINDI LODGE o Thebe Pudulogo Caravella Restaurant ne K ok a Ben Thema b l Isang Ta s. enn Se Boitshoko Pudulogo School e re

te

Dr.

Robinson Moeng Tati

lepolo le

Sta

Office CRESTA Queens PRESIDENT H National Botswana Archives

Kutlwano

Emang

Gaborone Secondary Botswelelo School Princess Marina Botswana Gobuamang National Museum Main Mall Pula & Art Gallery

Pilane

National Stadium

Town Hall

Circle

Gaborone Public Library

Churchill Way

Notwane
Church

Notwane Sports Club

Kagisano

Borakanelo

th

Kgasa

University of Botswana

Pabalelo

Rauwe

Kabelo Podumo Loruo

Sedibelo Kwena

Jawara
Malekan twa Z.K. Cres cent

Jawara
Kgatl ha no
Bushbuck

S ou t h S

Mephato
Ditlh ako re

Tshiamo School

Maruapula
Oodi
Oodi

oth

Madibeng

Sitatunga

thi Mo bi

Ma ka ba

Morukuru

s.
Mo

oka

Embassy Dr.

iba o t h ep M a itsh Bo

ana gw Mo

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M ar at ad

Bogadi
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Kw y ughb Willo

Maratadiba
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dira a ba Tsh are la Mon di Matla e kot Mo

j oko Ph

Kwa tsi

ala ta

FAIRGROUND MALL

TO FAIRGROUND MALL

TO RIVERWALK SHOPPING MALL

GABORONE
Gaborone is generally the point of entry into Botswana, through the bustling Sir Seretse Khama International Airport or through its road links with South Africa, providing access for tourists to the main attractions of the Okavango Delta, the Chobe, Tuli Block and the more remote desert areas. Built around an original circular layout, Gaborone has since experienced frenetic growth. This can be appreciated in the disjointed and confusing layout of the citys roads and suburbs.
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GABORONE
The city, which houses the SADC Head Office and the Diamond Technology Park, offers a range of modern hotels, casinos, cinemas, a choice of good restaurants and nightclubs. Many of these nightclubs host live performances by the popular artists of Botswanas burgeoning music industry. There are many well-patronized venues offering live music across Gaborone and Mogoditshane 4km (2.5 miles) northeast of the capital.

A Shopping Paradise
With its initial focus on establishing the administrative essentials, Gaborone initially didnt have a reputation as a great place to shop. But as a result of growing national prosperity, massive population growth and consumer demand, this has changed and now Gaborone has more retail shopping space per person than almost any other city in the world. For the visitor there is now an amazing choice of modern shopping malls, all laced with trendy restaurants and coffee shops, each vying for the shoppers attention with top quality imported and local products. Must visit malls in Gaborone include the massive Game City at the base of Kgale Hill, Riverwalk Shopping Mall on the north bank of the Ngotwane River, BBS Mall in Broadhurst, the Main Mall in the centre of town, the bustling African and Fairground malls, Molapo Crossing and the new Airport Junction shopping centre.

Above: Vendors and craftsmen display their wares under the shady trees of Gaborones paved central Mall.

B IRD L IFE B OTSWANA

For a fascinating insight into the rich bird life that Botswana has to offer, the Gaborone-based Bird Life Botswana club is very active with regular bird walks on the first Sunday of every month. To join them, meet at Molapo Crossing at 06:30 (or 08:00 in winter). The club also organizes frequent presentations by well-known ornithologists. Excursions are usually advertised in the weekly Advertiser, and visitors are welcome. The club can be contacted on tel: 319 0540, or visit www. birdlifebotswana.org.bw

The National Assembly

The National Assembly is at the top of the Main Mall where it is surrounded by the other tall government buildings. At the centre of this government enclave is a paved square with a War Memorial for those Batswana who gave their lives for the British Empire, and a statue of Sir Seretse Khama, Botswanas first president.

33

GABORONE AND SURROUNDS

On the eastern side of the Mall next to the Town Hall is the Gaborone Public Library . It boasts a wide selection of books covering all aspects of Botswanas history, people and culture as does the British Council . The Library is open Monday to Friday from 09:00 to 16:30 and Saturdays from 09:00 to 12:00. Above: In the grounds of the National Museum, off Gaborones busy Independence Avenue, a traditional Batswana hut provides a live exhibit for visitors.

National Sports Centre

The impressive National Sports Centre is just 2km (1.5 miles) east of the Main Mall on Nyerere Drive between the Gaborone Golf Club and the University of Botswana. League football matches are played here most weekends and it was an official training venue for the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Next to the stadium are the Botswana Tennis Association courts, which have hosted the international Davis Cup competition; the Cricket Club grounds (which host the annual Guy Fawkes fireworks display); and the Squash Club courts. All the courts are open to the public daily, although can generally only be booked by club members.

C RAFT M ARKETS

Lentswe-la-Oodi Weavers in Oodi village about 20km (12 miles) from Gaborone on the Francistown road. Tour the factory and buy colourful ethnic wall hangings and tapestries. Botswana Craft, on the Western Bypass towards the airport traffic circle, specializes in southern African curios and Botswana baskets. Craft Workshop Flea Market, on the last Sunday morning of each month, sells up-market ornaments. Informal street market under the shady trees of the Main Mall.

National Museum and Art Gallery

The National Museum and Art Gallery displays a collection of traditional crafts and paintings by local and regional artists. Their botanical garden is the burial place of the controversial El Negro, a mounted Bushman (San) displayed in the Darder Museum of Banyoles in Spain from 192697. His remains were returned to Botswana in 2000. Open Tuesday to Friday 09:00 to 18:00 and Saturday and Sunday 09:00 to 17:00; tel: 367 4616. The Thapong Visual Arts Centre in The Village (tel: 316 1771) has a range of arts and crafts, while Gallery Ann (tel: 7138 0404) in the Craft Workshop off Nakedi Rd in Broadhurst specializes in paintings.

34

GABORONE
Theatres
There are several established performing arts venues, the main one being the Maitisong Cultural Centre. Maitisong is at Maru-a-Pula school, and hosts the National Maitisong Festival in March/April plus numerous performances organized throughout the year. There is also a very active local drama group called Capital Players. Details of these and other performances by traditional dance and drama groups can be found in the weekly Advertiser.

T HE N O . 1 L A D I E S DETECTIVE AGENCY
The No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency is one of a charming series of books by Alexander McCall Smith. Set in Gaborone, the book follows the adventures of Mma Ramotswe as she tackles social and cultural issues as well as a touch of real crime. This book, which Laura Bush claims to be her favourite, has been made into a very popular BBC TV series which was directed by Sidney Pollack and which has won wide international acclaim. Many of the films locations have become tourist landmarks and there are even tour companies offering Mma Ramotswe tours to places like Zebra Drive and the Kgale shopping centre. To arrange tours to the film set itself, tel: 72 654 323.

Gaborone Game Reserve

This 550ha (1359-acre) reserve was opened in 1988 through the efforts of the Kalahari Conservation Society, and is now Botswanas third-busiest reserve. It provides an ideal getaway for those wanting to escape the stresses of urban life. There is a small entrance fee and visitors can see a remarkable range of wildlife including zebra, eland, kudu, red hartebeest, impala and warthog. A detailed route map is supplied at the entrance gate, a short distance off Limpopo Drive on the western side of the city. Bird-watching in the Gaborone Game Reserve is excellent, particularly in ponds and marshlands along the eastern edge of the park. There are two well-maintained picnic sites and a game hide. Open daily 06:3018:30.

Mokolodi Game Reserve

This 5000ha (12,355-acre) reserve was established in 1994 by the Mokolodi Wildlife Foundation as both a game reserve and an Environmental Eduction Centre where school-children can be taught the importance of conservation. Set in a wide valley between the Mokolodi Hills and Magic Mountain inhabited by leopard and porcupine this scenic reserve has a well-developed network of game-viewing drives. The roads that link the dams and hilltops can be a bit rough in places so 4x4 vehicles are recom-

Below: A full-grown white rhinoceros (Ceratotherium simum), although less aggressive than the black rhino, still weighs in at over 2000kg (4400 lb).

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GABORONE AND SURROUNDS

mended. There is a remarkable abundance of wildlife in the wooded park and visitors can expect to see elephant, The Mokolodi Game Reserve rhino, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, hartebeest, spotted is famous for its guided walks. hyena, plentiful impala as well as hand-reared cheetah. Take advantage of the rare opportunity to track rhino or Just 14km (9 miles) west of Gaborone, Mokolodi offers to walk through the bush with numerous guided walks and game drives, including young elephants. Excursions memorable rhino and giraffe tracking through the thick are with professional guides and offer outstanding photobush. Bicycle trails and horse safaris with trained field graphic opportunities. A hide guides are also available as are day and night game at the edge of the elephants drives. These evening drives, which can incorporate a bathing pool allows one to get fantastic bush braai dinner, are good for spotting the within feet of these creatures. The walks also give visitors a more unusual nocturnal creatures. chance to spot the mountain There are five self-catering chalets set on the edge reedbuck, unique to Mokoof a little grass-edged water hole, much favoured by lodi. Booking is essential. the endangered rhino. At the Alexander McCall Smith Rest Camp guests can stay in traditional Tswana huts or can choose from a range MAHALAPYE Gaborone and of camp sites. Mokolodi Monametsana Surrounds Lentsweletau also boasts one of GaboMatsieng's Hole BOTSWANA rones finest restaurants, a Rasesa Kweneng District Kgatleng District bar and a curio shop, and Molepolole Phuthadikobo Pilane Aloe Forest Livingstones provides transfers to and Museum Mochudi Cave Rock from the park. Paintings

E XCELLENT G UIDED W ALKS

LETLHAKENG

ng Phakalane be Ramonaka Oodi Mogoditshane Phakalane Golf Resort Kolobeng GABORONE Golf Course & Modipane Gabane Gaborone Game Reserve Thamaga
Kol

Ng otw an

Gaborone Dam
Surrounded by high hills and thick game-filled bush, the setting for Gabs Dam is very attractive. On the southern bank is the City Scapes picnic site near the Kalahari Fishing Club, while the Gaborone Yacht Club has a clubhouse and swimming pool set on a rocky island. With spectaclar views over the water and the distant mountains, the club is great for sundowners and light meals.

Mokolodi Tlokweng Livingstones Game Reserve Kgale Hill Gaborone Yacht Club Mission Gaborone Bahurutshe Cultural Tlokweng Dam Village and Lodge Rock Paintings Ramotswa

Sikwane

Madikwe Game Reserve

Moshupa
JWANENG

Ramotswa
Mogobane
Otse Hill 1489m

Kanye
Kanye Hill

South East District Otse

Manyelanong Vulture Colony

SOUTH AFRICA
N

Southern District

Lobatse
Pioneer Gate

Digawana Goodhope Pitsane

RAMATLABAMA

0 0 Zeerust

25 km 10 miles

36

ALONG THE FRANCISTOWN ROAD

Temporary membership is available for visitors interested in the water sports that include sailing, canoeing and rowing. For details see www.gyc.org.bw Gaborone Dam is a good fishing venue where bass, bream and barbel (catfish) can be caught. It is also popular with birders for its wide range of water birds and beeeaters. Be aware that there is a danger of bilharzia and crocodiles, so swimming in the dam should be avoided.

Kgale Hill
Gaborone is dominated by Kgale Hill and it offers a pleasant climb with breathtaking views of the dam and city. Visitors can choose one of three well-defined routes up the hill starting from the parking area opposite the satellite station. They are the steep Rustys Route; the longer Transfeldt Trail; and the walk across the saddle to Cross Kopje. Each takes less than an hour. There is a resident troop of baboons living on Kgale and a pair of black eagles consistently nests in the craggy cliff face just below the peak. There have also been reports of early morning sightings of leopard. But, before leaving your car at the base of the hill, it is worth hiring someone from Old Naledi to guard your vehicle as there have been instances of petty theft in the car park area.

Above: The king of all the beasts, Panthera leo surveys his domain.

T HE B OER W AR
After the Battle of Crocodile Pools just outside Gaborone in 1899, the British police and officials stationed at Gaborone were ordered to retreat and destroy the administrative camp there. The only article left of value was a huge safe, but when the Boers who had overrun the area blew it open, all they found was a piece of paper with the words sold again! But not all the war history of Gaborone was so amusing. A bitter battle was fought in the Crocodile Pools area on the hills near Mokolodi overlooking the Metswemaswaane River. Heavy artillery was used by both sides, numerous soldiers were killed, a VC was awarded and the railway bridge over the river was blown up. Grave sites can still be found on the hill on the eastern side of the bridge.

ALONG THE FRANCISTOWN ROAD

There are a few traditional villages north of Gaborone on the Francistown road which are famous for their craft centres and are well worth a visit.

Phakalane
From the airport traffic circle take the Francistown road for 8km (5 miles) to the Phakalane turn-off which is on the right. The main attraction here is the Phakalane Golf Estate Hotel Resort. It offers a beautifully designed international standard 18-hole golf course with a multimillion dollar clubhouse including the famous Drotskys fine

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GABORONE AND SURROUNDS

T HE I NDEPENDENCE T REE
After Seretse Khama returned from exile in the mid-1950s he was free to focus on his political career. He formed the Botswana Democratic Party (BDP) with the aim of winning independence for the country from Britain. Khama wanted to have the first meeting of the BDP at the Gaborone Hotel, but as the hotel was a whites only hotel at the time, Khama decided to hold the meeting under a nearby marula tree. This sprawling tree is now a national monument and can still be seen on Nelson Mandela Drive immediately behind Orapa House.

dining restaurant, Feathers Halfway House and Oriental Cuisine, and the elegant Linyanti Bar and lounge. In addition to the 80 rooms of the four-star hotel there are 12 Eagles Nest luxury villas and eight selfcatering chalets available. The golf estate also has a driving range, pro shop and an up-market residential estate lining the greens.

Mochudi
Another 10km (6 miles) along the road is the village of Mochudi. This is a place of significant cultural history where tourists will find examples of decorated Setswana architecture, real Batswana seswaa, the most southerly baobabs in Botswana, and traditional crafts including the Ithukeng Tin Workshop. The Phuthadikobo Museum set on the peak of Phuthadikobo Hill is the centrepiece of the Muchudi Cultural Precinct and with its dramatic cliff-top views is well worth a visit. It records the history of the Kgatleng District and the local Bakgatla people with exhibits, artefacts and original photographs. Guided walking tours are offered to nearby fortifications, decorated homes and the tribal Police Station built in 1872, which is one of the oldest buildings in Botswana. A screen-printing workshop and a traditional blacksmith form part of the museum. Open weekdays 08:0017:00, weekends 14:0017:00.

Opposite: Matsiengs actual Creation Hole, which never dries up. Below: Brightly coloured woven wall hangings from the Lentswe-la-Oodi Weavers who are based in the village of Oodi depict traditional village scenes.

Matsiengs Footprints
This remarkable cultural heritage site can be found just north of the village of Rasesa at the end of the dual carriageway about 50km (30 miles) outside Gaborone. The sacred rainmaking site is one of only four known creation sites in Botswana and is situated close to the main road along a flat 450-million-yearold sandstone stretch of ancient river bed.

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WEST OF GABORONE
Mochudi

Molepolole

Pilane Phakalane Oodi Modipane Tlokweng

Kgale Hill

BOTSWANA
Thamaga Mosopa Gabane

GABORONE
Gaborone Dam

Ramotswa

Kanye

Mogobane Otse

Manyelanong Vulture Colony

SOUTH AFRICA

Lobatse

T HE D IAMOND C ITY
There is a series of deep sculptured potholes in the watercourse, and out of one, according to local legend Matsieng (the Adam of Batswana folklore) emerged, followed by his people and all the animals. Their fading footprints, etched thousands of years ago into the smooth rock, can still be seen coming out of the permanent waters of the pothole. In addition to the San rock engravings the site also has incredible geology, including a scattering of unexplained white circles embedded across the dark rock any theories are welcome! Entrance to the site is free of charge and the enthusiastic and knowledgeable curator makes a visit to the site well worthwhile.
Botswana is the worlds largest producer of diamonds. In 2012 the country exported almost US$3 billion worth of diamonds, many of them cut and polished. Gaborone is now set to surpass London as the centre of this global industry, making it a true City of Diamonds.

T HE D RAGON OF M OCHUDI
Mochudis museum is perched on top of Phuthadikobo Hill where for centuries the morafe performed their traditional magic rituals. According to a local legend, deep within the hillside below the museum, a huge dragon called Kgwanyape lives. The people of Mochudi believe that only those who have been ritually strengthened are able to look at the terrible monster without perishing in the process. Yet, according to the curator of the museum, over the last few years a number of people from the village have reported seeing the creature.

WEST OF GABORONE
The villages to the west of Gaborone are set in scenic, hilly country and are rich in crafts and history.

Kolobeng
The Kanye road crosses the Kolobeng River 40km (25 miles) from Gaborone. Immediately after the bridge, on the left, is a short dirt road to the Livingstone Memorial and the ruins of David Livingstones house and mission, built in the 1840s. The church, the first in Botswana, was where Chief Sechele was converted to Christianity. It was also the first school and the site of the first irrigation project. The foundations of these buildings can still be seen, as can the graves of Livingstones daughter and the artist Thomas Dolman, both buried on the banks of the river.

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GABORONE AND SURROUNDS

Bahurutshe Cultural Village
Near the Livingstone Memorial on the A10 highway is the turn-off to Mmankodi village, which is less than 5km (3 miles) to the south. Just beyond the village in the Nyangani Hills is the remarkable Bahurutshe Cultural village and lodge. Accommodation is in en-suite thatched huts and camp sites and guests can experience real traditional life and the rituals of dance, story telling, and share Setswana dishes in a genuine village setting.

Thamaga
About 12km (7 miles) after Kolobeng is the village of Thamaga. Beyond the Botswelelo Centre is the famous Thamaga Pottery shop which produces decorated African pottery of the highest standard. This shop is the hub of a burgeoning local pottery industry. On the other side of Thamaga the road passes through the Polokwe Viewing Point and joins the Trans-Kalahari Highway. North is the rich diamond mine of Jwaneng while to the south is the town of Kanye and a link through to Lobatse.

Above: The Thamaga Pottery shop has gained local fame for the high quality of its wares.

L IVINGSTONE S C AVE
Just 5km (3 miles) from Molepolole on the Thamaga road there is a noticable cliff face on the northern side of the road. About 50m (165ft) up the cliff is a cave, and it was this craggy crevice that helped bring Christianity to the country in the late 1840s. The Kwena witchdoctor said that anyone who entered the cave would die, and it is believed that Chief Sechele converted to Christianity after David Livingstone emerged from the grotto alive and well, casting the tribes traditional beliefs and superstitions into doubt.

SOUTHWEST OF GABORONE
Kanye
This sprawling, picturesque village is the capital of the Bangwaketsi tribe. It was founded by Chief Makaba in the late 18th century as a well-defended hilltop settlement (its name means to destroy or to strike down). The village was often under siege by various attackers, including Mzilikazi on his migration to Bulawayo and the German maverick Jan Bloem. But Kanye survived them all and is now an important and prosperous urban centre. There are some good traditional restaurants in Kanye serving unique Batswana dishes. The Ko Gae (My Home) caf is situated in the Main Kanye Mall

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SOUTHWEST OF GABORONE
and offers very genuine cuisine. A must are their popular Seswaa dishes boiled and pounded beef being a local favourite often served at traditional celebrations such as weddings.

T HE S OURCE OF THE L IMPOPO

As described by Rudyard Kipling, the Limpopo River is a great gray-green greasy expanse of coursing water surging across three countries towards the Indian Ocean. It is little known that the source of the Limpopo is just south of Gaborone near Lobatse, where it is called the Ngotwane River. As the Ngotwane River it forms the border between Botswana and South Africa, up to the Ngotwane Dam. This spills directly into the Gaborone Dam, from where the river continues its northeastern journey towards Parrs Halt. Here it changes its name to the Limpopo and again forms the national boundary up to the far eastern tip of the country where Botswana, Zimbabwe and South Africa meet at the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe rivers.

Lobatse
Lobatse, now home to some 80,000 people, was once considered to become Botswanas capital. Named after Chief Molebatse, Lobatse is home to the Botswana Meat Commission. Established in 1966 the Commission has a large abattoir, meat canning factory and leather tannery in Lobatse, as well as abattoirs in Francistown and Maun, from where they export quality Botswana Beef to South Africa and various other countries throughout the world. On the main road between Gaborone and Lobatse is the St Claire Lion Park Resort. Although the lions are long gone, there is now a very popular water world with swimming pools, water slides and a luna park specially designed for children. An entrance fee is charged and in addition to the rides and slides refreshments and fast food are available.

Otse and the Manyelanong Game Reserve

The village of Otse is 15km (9 miles) outside Lobatse on the Gaborone road. North of the village is Otse Hill, the highest point in Botswana at 1489m (4885ft) above sea level. In the sheer cliffs beyond the settlement, the tiny Manyelanong Game Reserve protects a breeding colony of Cape vultures. The winter months are the best time to visit this reserve. There are now just under 50 breeding pairs of birds in the colony, but it is still one of the largest colonies of vultures in Botswana. To get to the reserve, turn off the main Lobatse/Gaborone road in Otse at the Moeding College signpost. At the Y junction turn right and keep heading for the high rocky hill.

Below: Cape vultures (Gyps coprotheres) rest in a tree far from their cliff-edge roost.

41

CONTENTS
1. Introducing Botswana
The Land History in Brief Government and Economy The People

5
6 14 20 25

5. The Tuli Block and Eastern Botswana

The Tuli Block Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area Mashatu and Northern Tuli Game Reserves Solomons Wall and the Granite Hills Towns of Eastern Botswana

67
67

68 71 71 74

2. Gaborone and Surrounds

Gaborone Along the Francistown Road West of Gaborone Southwest of Gaborone

31
32 37 39 40

6. The Central Kalahari

The Central Kalahari Game Reserve Serowe Khutse Game Reserve

79
79 82 83

3. The Southern Kalahari

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park Ghanzi The Western Woodlands

45
45 49 49

7. Chobe National Park

Kasane The River Frontage Nogatsaa and Tchinga Savuti Linyanti Kazungula Victoria Falls

89
90 92 94 95 100 102 103

4. The Makgadikgadi Pans

Francistown North of Francistown Sua Pan The Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan National Park The Baobab Trail Nxai Pan

53
54 56 57 61 62 64

8. The Okavango Delta

Maun Moremi Game Reserve The Central and Southern Okavango The Panhandle, Tsodilo and Western Okavango

107
108 111 115 116

Travel Tips 122 Index 127

2 Gaborone and Surrounds

NAMIBIA

s one of Africas fastest growing cities, Gaborone, Botswanas capital, is a vibrant, colourful metropolis. Due to its phenomenal growth from an obscure village in the early 1960s to home to almost 500,000 people in just 40 years, Gaborone has neither a long history nor an established traditional African character, as other African cities such as Dar es Salaam and Nairobi do. But Gaborone still provides all the facilities you would expect to find in any modern city. The tiny administrative village of Gaberones (literally Gaberones place) was selected in 1964 as the site of the countrys new capital primarily because of its reliable water supply, its strategic location and its proximity to the Cape to Cairo railway line. The city is named after Chief Gaberone who lead the Batlokwa tribe into the area in the 1880s. They settled in Tlokweng, the first urban area you reach when driving into the city from the South African border post 20km (12 miles) to the east. In the early 1890s a colonial fort was built by Rhodess British South Africa Company in the area now known as The Village near Tlokweng. It was from here that the unsuccessful Jameson Raid was launched by Cecil John Rhodes in December 1895, sparking the Boer War. At the time there was little more than a handful of buildings in the area. When Botswana gained independence from Britain on 30 September 1966, Gaborone had just the administrative essentials and a mere 1000 new homes. Two years later it was declared a city and has continued to grow at a rapid pace ever since.

Kasane Shakawe

ZIMBABWE
Maun
Rakops Nata

Francistown

Ghanzi

BOTSWANA Serowe
Kang Hukuntsi Letlhakeng Kanye

Selebi-Phikwe Palapye Mahalapye GABORONE

Lobatse

Molepolole

SOUTH AFRICA

D ON T M ISS

Mokolodi Game Reserve: elephant-back encounters, giraffe tracking, cheetah visits and horseback safaris. Tracking rhino through the Mokolodi Hills. Gaborone Game Reserve: for a barbecue breakfast. Matsiengs footprints and rock engravings Gaborone Dam: perfect for fishing or picnicking. National Museum and Art Gallery: Botswana baskets and other exhibitions. A climb up Kgale Hill. Shopping: Game City and River Walk.

Opposite: A regal Seretse Khama in front of the parliament buildings.

31

GA B O R O N E A N D SU R R O U N D S
BROAD HURST / AIRPORT / AIRPORT JUNCTION MALL

Gaborone
Ma

Phuduhudu

No Matata Shopping Centre S

ne

KAGISO M ALL

Letlhalerwa Sebalabolokwane

Shaushawane Ntseane

Seleka Gom oti

Phofu

T hutlw

500 m

d ik

N
M or ve upu le

Tham alaka

Julius Ny

erere D ri ve
Nche

Maru-a-Pula Mall

we

Segogwane

GABO RO NE GAM E RESERVE

etsa

500 yd
4th C om m e rcial
m er cial

D ri

D ina

d ela

tla
Kolo ben g

M arakanelo

Thakad
Kgabo

u
Tsheke di

FALCON CREST
Pela

Dassie Leopard

m er m cial

uhu

M an

Northside School
Dove Tshekedi Nare Tau Zebra

M ah

N M or upu elson le

C om

ern

Kgala

om m

gad i

3rd C

East

ercia

Julius Nyerere D rive

P re

e sid

s nt'

ive Dr

C om

eA

Tawana

Central Business D istrict

Ind
fel a D ik ga

Pela

tern

ep

Maitisong Theatre
Eland

en

W es

de

nc

North

Kgokong

R
in g
au

Phuti Kgori Phuti Phiri M anong Phiri Phala Nkwe Phala

Rhinoceros

Maru-a-Pula School

ve

nu

Badiri
Se seb o lai
Mo

Kgari
M orem i

M aruapula

Leng

2nd
TO GAM E CITY SHO PPING M ALL / M O LAPO CRO SSING M ALL

C om

m er cial

Kha

ma

Cr e

te Sta ouse H

State House
Ra

a bin

Phologolo
Buffalo Tshepe Hospital

n Mo

ga

na

Nswazwi Ikaneng Sebele

H GABORONE SUN
Gaborone Golf Club

Red Cross
Tsheko

Hospital

C om 1st m er cial

Office of the President National Assembly Government Enclave

P ar liam ent D r.

M ole

polole

te Sta

ad i d ikg M aka D r. Immigration

M engwe

Thornhill School

O ld M

Khwai

Seb oko

GABORONE

Mm araka
Orapa House

M arlborough

D epartm ent of Surveys and Mapping

M oapare

Se

on M og

da
w

M op h

lw

ala

an e

alo

ua

Water Utilities Corporation

M orula
M okala
M okala

M oylopi

la

ogo

i lor

O ld Lobatse

lassie

Luthuli

en g

am us

Giraffe

M od isa

Hippopot

Mo

Brown

Botswana a Polytechnic

FAIRGRO U ND M ALL

TO FAIRGRO U ND M ALL

TO RIVERW ALK SHO PPING M ALL

GA BOR ONE
Gaborone is generally the point of entry into Botswana, through the bustling Sir Seretse K hama International Airport or through its road links with South Africa, providing access for tourists to the main attractions of the O kavango Delta, the Chobe, Tuli Block and the more remote desert areas. Built around an original circular layout, Gaborone has since experienced frenetic growth. This can be appreciated in the disjointed and confusing layout of the citys roads and suburbs.
32

M olam

M alo

Ma

pe

Bontleng m bas School ale haba Phokoje Kg

je

Haile Se

Fla

bu

kw

nd

au

tsi

to

mi

Do

Vu

et

Ma t sa

ng o

nn

hK

Ma tim

Dr i ve

Bontleng

Ke

akgan

Madirelo

ta ala Kw a am Kuk itse P

South Ma Ring Mall M isatu a m

tim

Kga lad

Ma

e Ind

en

e seb he T s uku T she se P h holo be T

n de

ce

ap ula

Fire Station

M acheng

Thebe School

Ph

th

Ma

Sekewa ane
Mo lw ret a

ko lol

African Mall

Me

raf e

Av

T h D ithap Lesedi ob eg o School Ra M o M ala a tsh shw u osa a nzie M acke g g Rin M ad i

Sedibelo

ch ere

Station

Kha m

ono
Mo gw ana

Ka

un

D ilalelo

M aherero

Kabelo

Gaborone Railway Station

aC

BRACKEND ENE M athangwane Thebe Basin LOD GE Selem ela Ntogwa H TIND I LOD GE o Thebe Pudulogo Caravella Restaurant ne K ok a Ben Them a b l Isang T a s . e n n Se Boitshoko Pudulogo School e re

eD

r.

Robinson M oeng Tati

olepo lole

Sta t

Office CRESTA Q ueens PRESID ENT H National Botswana Archives

Kutlwano

Em ang

Gaborone Secondary Botswelelo School Princess Marina Botswana Gobuam ang National Museum Main Mall Pula & Art Gallery

Pilane

National Stadium

Town Hall

Circle

Gaborone Public Library

Churchill W ay

Notwane
Church

Notwane Sports Club

Kagisano

Borakanelo

th

Kgasa

University of Botswana

Pabalelo

Rauwe

Kabelo Podum o Loruo

Sedibelo Kwena

ar e

ne

Jawara
twa Z.K. Cres cent M alekan

Mo

Jawara
Kgatl hano
Bushbuck

S ou t h S

Mephato
D itlh ako re

Tshiam o School

M aruapula
O od i

oth

T shetl o E le ph an t

Les

Madibeng

Sitatunga

thi Mo bi

Ma ka ba

M orukuru

s.
Em bassy Dr.
iba o th ep M a itsh Bo

oka

a o

M ar atad
Kwa

Bogadi
iba

ughb W illo

M aratad iba
Gubadw
O od i

d ira aba T sh are la M on d i M atla e kot Mo

Ph

oko

tsi

ala Kw y ta

GA B O R O N E
The city, which houses the SADC Head O ffice and the Diamond Technology P ark, offers a range of modern hotels, casinos, cinemas, a choice of good restaurants and nightclubs. Many of these nightclubs host live performances by the popular artists of Botswanas burgeoning music industry. There are many well-patroniz ed venues offering live music across Gaborone and Mogoditshane 4km (2.5 miles) northeast of the capital.

A Shopping Paradise
With its initial focus on establishing the administrative essentials, Gaborone initially didnt have a reputation as a great place to shop. But as a result of growing national prosperity, massive population growth and consumer demand, this has changed and now Gaborone has more retail shopping space per person than almost any other city in the world. F or the visitor there is now an amaz ing choice of modern shopping malls, all laced with trendy restaurants and coffee shops, each vying for the shoppers attention with top q uality imported and local products. Must visit malls in Gaborone include the massive Game City at the base of K gale Hill, Riverw alk Shopping Mall on the north bank of the Ngotwane River, B B S Mall in Broadhurst, the Main Mall in the centre of town, the bustling African and F airground malls, Molapo Crossing and the new Airport Junction shopping centre.

Abov e: V endors and c raftsmen display their w ares under the shady trees of G aborones pav ed c entral M all.

B IR D L

IF E

B OTSW

A NA

The National A ssem bly

The National Assembly is at the top of the Main Mall where it is surrounded by the other tall government buildings. At the centre of this government enclave is a paved sq uare with a War Memorial for those Batswana who gave their lives for the British E mpire, and a statue of Sir Seretse K hama, Botswanas first president.

F or a fascinating insight into the rich bird life that Botswana has to offer, the Gaborone-based Bird L ife Botswana club is very active with regular bird walks on the first Sunday of every month. To join them, meet at Molapo Crossing at 06: 30 (or 08: 00 in winter). The club also organiz es freq uent presentations by well-known ornithologists. E xcursions are usually advertised in the weekly Advertiser, and visitors are welcome. The club can be contacted on tel: 319 0540, or visit www. birdlifebotswana.org.bw

33

GA B O R O N E A N D SU R R O U N D S
O n the eastern side of the Mall next to the Town Hall is the Gaborone P ublic L ibrary . It boasts a wide selection of books covering all aspects of Botswanas history, people and culture as does the B ritish Council . The L ibrary is open Monday to F riday from 09: 00 to 16: 30 and Saturdays from 09: 00 to 12: 00. Abov e: In the grounds of the N ational M useum, off G aborones busy Independenc e Av enue, a traditional B atsw ana hut prov ides a liv e ex hibit for v isitors.

National Sports Centre

The impressive National Sports Centre is just 2km (1.5 miles) east of the Main Mall on Nyerere Drive between the Gaborone Golf Club and the U niversity of Botswana. L eague football matches are played here most weekends and it was an official training venue for the 2010 F IF A World Cup. Next to the stadium are the Botswana Tennis Association courts, which have hosted the international Davis Cup competition; the Cricket Club grounds (which host the annual Guy F awkes fireworks display); and the Sq uash Club courts. All the courts are open to the public daily, although can generally only be booked by club members.

C R A F T M A R KETS

L entsw e- la- O odi W eavers in O odi village about 20km (12 miles) from Gaborone on the F rancistown road. Tour the factory and buy colourful ethnic wall hangings and tapestries. B otsw ana Craft, on the Western Bypass towards the airport traffic circle, specializ es in southern African curios and Botswana baskets. Craft W orkshop F lea Market, on the last Sunday morning of each month, sells up-market ornaments. I nformal street market under the shady trees of the Main Mall.

National Museum and A rt Gallery

The National Museum and Art Gallery displays a collection of traditional crafts and paintings by local and regional artists. Their botanical garden is the burial place of the controversial E l Negro, a mounted Bushman (San) displayed in the Darder Museum of Banyoles in Spain from 1926 97 . His remains were returned to Botswana in 2000. O pen Tuesday to F riday 09: 00 to 18: 00 and Saturday and Sunday 09: 00 to 17 : 00; tel: 367 4616. The Thapong V isual Arts Centre in The Village (tel: 316 17 7 1) has a range of arts and crafts, while Gallery Ann (tel: 7 138 0404) in the Craft Workshop off Nakedi Rd in Broadhurst specializ es in paintings.

34

GA B O R O N E
Theatres
There are several established performing arts venues, the main one being the Maitisong Cultural Centre. Maitisong is at Maru-a-P ula school, and hosts the National Maitisong F estival in March/ April plus numerous performances organiz ed throughout the year. There is also a very active local drama group called Capital P layers. Details of these and other performances by traditional dance and drama groups can be found in the weekly Advertiser.

T H E N O . 1 L AD I E S D E T E C T I V E AG E N C Y
The No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency is one of a charming series of books by Alexander McCall Smith. Set in Gaborone, the book follows the adventures of Mma Ramotswe as she tackles social and cultural issues as well as a touch of real crime. This book, which L aura Bush claims to be her favourite, has been made into a very popular BBC TV series which was directed by Sidney P ollack and which has won wide international acclaim. Many of the films locations have become tourist landmarks and there are even tour companies offering Mma Ramotswe tours to places like Z ebra Drive and the K gale shopping centre. To arrange tours to the film set itself, tel: 7 2 654 323.

Gaborone Gam e R eserve

This 550ha (1359-acre) reserve was opened in 1988 through the efforts of the K alahari Conservation Society, and is now Botswanas third-busiest reserve. It provides an ideal getaway for those wanting to escape the stresses of urban life. There is a small entrance fee and visitors can see a remarkable range of wildlife including z ebra, eland, kudu, red hartebeest, impala and warthog. A detailed route map is supplied at the entrance gate, a short distance off L impopo Drive on the western side of the city. Bird-watching in the Gaborone Game Reserve is excellent, particularly in ponds and marshlands along the eastern edge of the park. There are two well-maintained picnic sites and a game hide. O pen daily 06: 30 18: 30.

Mokolodi Gam e R eserve

This 5000ha (12,355-acre) reserve was established in 1994 by the Mokolodi Wildlife F oundation as both a game reserve and an E nvironmental E duction Centre where school-children can be taught the importance of conservation. Set in a wide valley between the Mokolodi Hills and Magic Mountain inhabited by leopard and porcupine this scenic reserve has a well-developed network of game-viewing drives. The roads that link the dams and hilltops can be a bit rough in places so 4x4 vehicles are recom-

B elow : A full-grow n w hite rhinoc eros ( Ceratotherium simum) , although less aggressiv e than the blac k rhino, still w eighs in at ov er 2 0 0 0 k g ( 4 4 0 0 lb) .

35

GA B O R O N E A N D SU R R O U N D S
mended. There is a remarkable abundance of wildlife in the wooded park and visitors can expect to see elephant, The Mokolodi Game Reserve rhino, giraffe, z ebra, wildebeest, hartebeest, spotted is famous for its guided w alks. hyena, plentiful impala as well as hand-reared cheetah. Take advantage of the rare opportunity to track rhino or Just 14km (9 miles) west of Gaborone, Mokolodi offers to walk through the bush with numerous guided walks and game drives, including young elephants. E xcursions memorable rhino and giraffe tracking through the thick are with professional guides and offer outstanding photobush. Bicycle trails and horse safaris with trained field graphic opportunities. A hide guides are also available as are day and night game at the edge of the elephants drives. These evening drives, which can incorporate a bathing pool allows one to get fantastic bush braai dinner, are good for spotting the within feet of these creatures. The walks also give visitors a more unusual nocturnal creatures. chance to spot the mountain There are five self- catering chalets set on the edge reedbuck, uniq ue to Mokoof a little grass-edged water hole, much favoured by lodi. Booking is essential. the endangered rhino. At the Alexander McCall Smith Rest Camp guests can stay in traditional Tswana huts or can choose from a range M AHALAPYE Gaborone and of camp sites. Mokolodi M onam etsana Surrounds Lentsweletau also boasts one of GaboMatsieng's Hole BOTSWANA rones finest restaurants, a Rasesa K weneng D istrict K gatleng D istrict bar and a curio shop, and Molepolole Phuthadikobo Pilane Aloe Forest Livingstones provides transfers to and Museum Mochudi Cave Rock from the park. Paintings

E X CEL L ENT G U IDED W

A L KS

LETLHAKENG

ng Phakalane be Ram onaka O odi M ogoditshane Phakalane Golf Resort Kolobeng GABORONE Golf Course & M odipane Gabane Gaborone Game Reserve Tham aga
Kol

Ng otw a

ne

Gaborone Dam

Mokolodi Tlokweng Livingstones Game Reserve Kgale Hill Gaborone Yacht Club Mission Gaborone Bahurutshe Cultural Tlokweng Dam Village and Lodge Rock Paintings Ram otswa

Sikwane

Madikwe Game Reserve

M oshupa
JW ANENG

Ram otswa
M ogobane
O tse Hill 1489m

Kanye
Kanye Hill

South East D istrict O tse

Manyelanong Vulture Colony

SOUTH AFRICA
N

Southern D istrict

Lobatse
Pioneer Gate

Digawana Goodhope Pitsane

RAM ATLABAM A

0 0 Zeerust

25 km 10 m iles

Surrounded by high hills and thick game-filled bush, the setting for Gabs Dam is very attractive. O n the southern bank is the City Scapes picnic site near the K alahari F ishing Club, while the Gaborone Y acht Club has a clubhouse and swimming pool set on a rocky island. With spectaclar views over the water and the distant mountains, the club is great for sundowners and light meals.

36

A L O N G T H E F R A N C IST O W N R O A D
Temporary membership is available for visitors interested in the water sports that include sailing, canoeing and rowing. F or details see www.gyc.org.bw Gaborone Dam is a good fishing venue where bass, bream and barbel (catfish) can be caught. It is also popular with birders for its wide range of water birds and beeeaters. Be aware that there is a danger of bilharz ia and crocodiles, so swimming in the dam should be avoided.

Kgale H ill
Gaborone is dominated by K gale Hill and it offers a pleasant climb with breathtaking views of the dam and city. Visitors can choose one of three well-defined routes up the hill starting from the parking area opposite the satellite station. They are the steep Rustys Route; the longer Transfeldt Trail; and the walk across the saddle to Cross Kopj e. E ach takes less than an hour. There is a resident troop of baboons living on K gale and a pair of black eagles consistently nests in the craggy cliff face just below the peak. There have also been reports of early morning sightings of leopard. But, before leaving your car at the base of the hill, it is worth hiring someone from O ld Naledi to guard your vehicle as there have been instances of petty theft in the car park area.

Abov e: T he k ing of all the beasts, Panthera leo surv ey s his domain.

T H E B OER W

AR

A L ONG TH E F R A NCISTOW N R OA D
There are a few traditional villages north of Gaborone on the F rancistown road which are famous for their craft centres and are well worth a visit.

Phakalane
F rom the airport traffic circle take the F rancistown road for 8km (5 miles) to the P hakalane turn-off which is on the right. The main attraction here is the P hakalane Golf E state Hotel Resort. It offers a beautifully designed international standard 18-hole golf course with a multimillion dollar clubhouse including the famous Drotskys fine

After the B attle of Crocodile P ools just outside Gaborone in 1899, the British police and officials stationed at Gaborone were ordered to retreat and destroy the administrative camp there. The only article left of value was a huge safe, but when the Boers who had overrun the area blew it open, all they found was a piece of paper with the words sold again! But not all the war history of Gaborone was so amusing. A bitter battle was fought in the Crocodile P ools area on the hills near Mokolodi overlooking the Metswemaswaane River. Heavy artillery was used by both sides, numerous soldiers were killed, a VC was awarded and the railway bridge over the river was blown up. Grave sites can still be found on the hill on the eastern side of the bridge.

37

GA B O R O N E A N D SU R R O U N D S
T H E I NDEPENDENCE T R EE
After Seretse K hama returned from exile in the mid-1950s he was free to focus on his political career. He formed the Botswana Democratic P arty (BDP ) with the aim of winning independence for the country from Britain. K hama wanted to have the first meeting of the BDP at the Gaborone Hotel, but as the hotel was a whites only hotel at the time, K hama decided to hold the meeting under a nearby marula tree. This sprawling tree is now a national monument and can still be seen on Nelson Mandela Drive immediately behind O rapa House.

dining restaurant, F eathers Halfway House and O riental Cuisine, and the elegant L inyanti Bar and lounge. In addition to the 80 rooms of the four-star hotel there are 12 E agles Nest luxury villas and eight selfcatering chalets available. The golf estate also has a driving range, pro shop and an up-market residential estate lining the greens.

Mochudi
Another 10km (6 miles) along the road is the village of Mochudi. This is a place of significant cultural history where tourists will find examples of decorated Setswana architecture, real Batswana seswaa, the most southerly baobabs in Botswana, and traditional crafts including the I thukeng Tin W orkshop. The P huthadikobo Museum set on the peak of P huthadikobo Hill is the centrepiece of the Muchudi Cultural P recinct and with its dramatic cliff-top views is well worth a visit. It records the history of the K gatleng District and the local Bakgatla people with exhibits, artefacts and original photographs. Guided walking tours are offered to nearby fortifications, decorated homes and the tribal P olice Station built in 187 2, which is one of the oldest buildings in Botswana. A screen-printing workshop and a traditional blacksmith form part of the museum. O pen weekdays 08: 00 17 : 00, weekends 14: 00 17 : 00.

Opposite: M atsiengs ac tual C reation H ole, w hic h nev er dries up. B elow : B rightly c oloured w ov en w all hangings from the L entsw e-la-Oodi W eav ers w ho are based in the v illage of Oodi depic t traditional v illage sc enes.

Matsiengs F ootprints
This remarkable cultural heritage site can be found just north of the village of Rasesa at the end of the dual carriageway about 50km (30 miles) outside Gaborone. The sacred rainmaking site is one of only four known creation sites in Botswana and is situated close to the main road along a flat 450-million-yearold sandstone stretch of ancient river bed.

38

BOTSWANA
Practical, informative and user-friendly, the Globetrotter Travel Guide to Botswana highlights the major places of interest, describing their principal attractions and offering sound suggestions on where to tour, stay, eat, shop and relax. The Author Alan Brough has lived in Botswana and travelled extensively throughout southern Africa. He regularly writes features on travel and tourism, and has written the Department of Tourisms annual Botswana Focus publication, as well as articles for international business publications such as Opportunity Africa and Africa Review.

Published and distributed by New Holland Publishers (UK) Ltd London

Distributed in Africa by Map Studio Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban

I S B N 978-1-78009-430-4

Distributed in the USA by The Globe Pequot Press Connecticut

781780 094304