Transport processes to Apparel

Submitted to: Prof. Ing. Lubo Hes, From: Ing. Asif Elahi Mangat

Table of Contents 1 Clothing Comfort ................................................................................................2

1 Clothing Comfort Human comfort is a complex and subjective, and is influenced

psychologically and clothing and surroundings environment conditions. Clothing as a near environment of human body plays a vital role in achieving human comfort and over past few decades, extensive and systematic investigation of clothing comfort, functions and ergonomics have been conducted. The mechanism and underlying principles associated with human physiological needs comfort attributes of clothing and their interaction with variety of environment have been formalized and established. The human environment must be aesthetically pleasing and must provide light, air and thermal comfort. The benefits of human friendly atmosphere are Increase attention to work resulting in increased productivity , improved quality of products Reduced absenteeism Lesser number of accidents Reduced health hazards

When the comfort condition exists the mind is alert and the body operated at maximum efficiency it has been found that maximum productivity occurs under comfortable conditions and that industrial accidents increase at higher and lower temperatures. Postural discomfort due to cold feeling results in just as many accidents as does mental dullness caused by a too warm environment. [1] Comfort is a fundamental and universal need of a human being but its plays a key role in the performance of a human being in his / her daily life routines. He can be productive more creative more relaxed and more efficient on his task if his comfort level matches with his/her body and the clothing which they are wearing

1.1 Clothing comfort Definition

Comfort is a vast field and it is very complex to define that what exactly is the main definition of comfort However Fourt and Hollies (1970) comfort involves thermal and non-thermal components and is related to wear situation such as working, non-critical conditions. The physiological response of the human body to a given combination of clothing and environmental conditions is predictable when the system reaches steady states. According to Slater (1985), comfort is a pleasant state of psychological, physiological, neuro-physiological and physical harmony between human being and the environment. Another good explanation of comfort by Hes Comfort is defined as the absence of perceived pain and discomfort Clothing is one of the fundamental needs of the human being. It serves various and diverse purposes. Clothing selection is based on the needs and desires of the people. It may be to satisfy some aesthetic needs or to fulfil

any particular demand of human being. Peoples selection of clothing depends upon their perception and feeling about the clothing. In some cases it is recommended to wear certain clothing and selection is not possible, for example dress of a fire-fighter, military uniform, etc. However, it is very common that there is a dynamic and fundamental changes in the preferences of people with the change in the context; season, climate, age, type of activity, etc. It is highly linked with the core requirement why a person is wearing any particular clothing. Moreover, clothing requirements are rather different depending upon the type of activities of any person. However, comfort is a basic and introductory prerequisite of the people in all situations and is considered a threshold in selecting the clothing. Thereby we can divide factors which can influence comfort into three main categories: 1.2 Factors influencing the comfort 1. Factors related to wearer (metabolism of person, age, experiences, level of health, mental and ecomoc position, types of activities) 2. Clothing structure and chemical nature of fibbers (fibre and yarn types, fabric structure, mechanical and thermal properties of fabric, clothing design, fitting) 3 External Conditions (moisture, ambient and radiant temperature, wind speed) Clothing Comfort concept is much easy to understand from the following statement, which is quite comprehensive: It [comfort] depends on many factors such as the temperature of the environment, the relative humidity, the wind velocity, the metabolism of the wearer and, of course, the characteristics of the clothing materials, e.g. materials thermal comfort properties, which display their abilities to transport heat and moisture from

the human bodys surface into the environment. The measuring values that reect this ability are clothings thermal resistance or thermal insulation, and water vapour resistance. Many other factors such as colour, fashion, and a persons physical and psychological state also impudence the feeling of comfort (Mecheels, 1998 as cited by Clear; Meinander and Gers, 2008). 1.3 Components of clothing comfort 1.3.1 Psychological

Although discussion about the psychological comfort is out of the scope for this work, it is found imperative to list down the factors which have a significant correlation with the psychological comfort. Prof. Lubos Hes provides the following list of factors which have a great affect psychological comfort Economical aspects, Resources, technology of food and objects manufacture, skills, political system,Historical aspects , Inclination to products made of natural materials, to products simulating nature, to products of natural smell. Tradition in lifestyle and fashion , Cultural aspects: religion, habits (in Arabic countries women are fully covered). Social aspects: age, qualification, social class, rank or position in this class Individual and group aspects: the effect of fashion, style, colours and lustre, trends, personal preferences It is presumed that intensity of factors varies a lot depending upon the context, which people are experiencing. There may be many more factors which are missing from the list and has become significant with the passage of time. 1.3.2 Sensorial

Sensorial Comfort: Easy to Estimate Sensorial comfort is relatively a young subject which has attracted much attention of people. Currently it is the topic which is highly focused (Y. 2001). Most of the clothing as a whole or partly touches the human skin. Under garment are fully in touch with human body, however jackets, coats or sweater may have partially contact with human body. Besides that, their hand feel is also important since our hands are regularly in touch with the clothing. Sensorial comfort depends upon mechanical and chemical properties of fabric. It is not possible to discuss sensorial comfort without discussing the thermal comfort. Anyhow, we have tries to discuss both topics separately People generally estimate clothing comfort level just by touching with hands and have to rely on their touch sense and they take decision based on their very raw observation. 1.3.3 Factors of clothing Judged by human touch

1. Softness 2. Smoothness 3. Bending rigidity 4. Elasticity 5. Warm and cool feeling, 6. Thickness of the fabric 7. Shear rigidity 8. Hand fullness 9. Wrinkle behaviour

Other

than

above

instruments,

Dr.

Lubos

developed

Alambeta

and

Permestest to measure thermal properties and moisture permeability of fabrics. This testing machine can measure heat and moisture behaviour of different fabrics. Results can be used to predict the clothing comfort level. There are many universities and manufacturing firms using these two equipments. List of instruments and laboratories is not short. All efforts are evidence that there is an increasing trend to have mechanical evaluation of fabric before sending it to market. These evaluations serve many purposes. The foremost is a base to develop new products. Today it is used to market the products, particularly; it is much useful in case of online clothing marketing. Prof. Lubos explains the German method of objective evaluation of complex sensorial comfort of worn garments, which is based on large experimental investigation.

Equation 1 Equation for thermo physiological comfort.

Equation 2 1.4 Rheology Rheology is a science of the flow and deformation of materials, viscoelastic materials such as amorphous; semi crystalline polymers exhibit both viscous and elastic characteristics when undergoing deformation. Maxwell model and Kelvin voight model are used to predict a viscoelastic material respond under different conditions.

1.4.1 Maxwell Model

The Maxwell model can be represented by a purely viscous damper and a purely elastic spring connected in series, as shown in the diagram. In this configuration, under an applied axial stress, the total stress, and the total strain, can be defined as follows [2] Equation 3 Equation 4

This model can be represented by a purely viscous piston and a purely elastic spring connected in series

Equation 5

Deforming the above equation

Equation 6 From above equation we get

Equation 7 By putting all the values we get the final model equation

Equation 8

When material is put under a constant stress the strain rate is divided into two components which are as follow An elastic spring components occurs instantaneously and relax immediately upon release of the stress. A viscous piston component that grows with the time as long as the stress is applies in addition the stain rates of this component with increasing viscosity.

1.4.2 Kelvin-Voight model

This model can be represented by a purely viscous piston and a purely elastic spring connected in parallel. The deformation on each element is the same but such experiences different stresses. A KelvinVoigt material, also called a Voigt material, is a viscoelastic material having the properties both of elasticity and viscosity. It is named after the British physicist and engineer William Thomson, 1st Baron Kelvin and after German physicist Woldemar Voigt The KelvinVoigt model, also called the Voigt model, can be represented by a purely viscous damper and purely elastic spring connected in parallel as shown in the picture.

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Figure 1

Schematic representation of KelvinVoigt model[3]

If we connect these two elements in series we get a model of a Maxwell material [4]

Figure 2 Kelvin Voigt model

Equation 9

Equation 10

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Rearranging the above equations

Equation 11

Final shape of the equation is as follow

Equation 12

1.5 Ironing Theory Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibres of the material. While the molecules are hot, the fibres are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool. Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the intermolecular bonds. Many modern fabrics (developed in or after the mid-twentieth century) are advertised as needing little or no ironing because their molecules have been designed to remain stable. 1.5.1 Fundamentals factors for ironing Weight: The iron must be heavy enough to compress the cloth but it cannot be so heavy that it limits the ability of the operator to use it.

Heat Source: The iron must acquire heat energy from some source either from transference (slugs, stoves) or self-contained processes (combustion, or electrical resistance.) Heat Regulation: There must be a method for assuring that the heat of the iron lies within the minimum needed to press the cloth and maximum to prevent damage. Moisture: moist heat is most conducive to the effectiveness of pressing; moisture must be supplied from an external source

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(dampening, press cloth) or from within the iron (sprinkling or steam) [5]

Ironing is a very useful process when employed in combination with deep drawing to produce a uniform wall thickness and to increase the wall height [6]

1.5.2 Chemistry of Ironing When the fabric is heated, the molecules are more easily reoriented. In the case of cotton fibres, which are derivatives of cellulose, the hydroxyl groups that crosslink the cellulose polymer chains are reformed at high temperatures, and become somewhat "locked in place" upon cooling the item. In permanent press pressed clothes, chemical agents such as dimethylol ethylene urea are added as cross linking agents.[7]

Figure 3 Ironing care labels[8] 1.6 Hookes law Hooke's law is named after the 17th century British physicist Robert Hooke. He first stated this law in 1660 as a Latin anagram[9] Definition (Physics) the principle that (within the elastic limit) the stress applied to a solid is proportional to the strain produced [10]

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When an elastic object - such as a spring - is stretched, the increased length is called its extension. The extension of an elastic object is directly proportional to the force applied to it: F=ke

F is the force in Newtons, N k is the 'spring constant' in Newtons per metre, N/m e is the extension in metres, m This equation works as long as the elastic limit (the limit of proportionality) is not exceeded. If a spring is stretched too much, for example, it will not return to its original length when the load is removed. 1.6.1 The spring constant The spring constant k is different for different objects and materials. It is found by carrying out an experiment. For example, the unloaded length of a spring is measured. Different numbers of slotted masses are added to the spring and its new length measured each time. The extension is the new length minus the unloaded length.

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Figure 4 Graph showing Hooke's Law. Extension is plotted against force

Assuming the limit of proportionality (elastic limit) is not exceeded, a graph of force against extension produces a straight line that passes through the origin. The gradient of the line is the spring constant, k. The greater the value of k, the stiffer the spring[11] Stress Strain Stress = Strain * Constant Constant = Stress Strain Later on this constant is called Youngs Modulus Which states

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1.6.2 Youngs Modulus

The ratio of stress to tensile strain is called youngs modulus

Stress= Tensile Strain = L LX

Y = Stress Tensile Strain

Y=

Y= F LX AL SI units of Youngs Modulus is Newton per square meter N/m2

1.7 Thermal Transition in textile fibres Introduction Most materials are characterised by transitions between three states: solid, liquid and gas. Textile fibres which are semi crystalline polymer behave differently. Firstly, the molecules are so large that decomposition occurs before there could be any possibility of vaporisation. In many polymers, such as cellulose and aramid, decomposition occurs before melting can take place. Secondly, there is a gradual softening before a viscous melt forms.

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Thirdly transitions within amorphous regions and more subtle effects in crystalline regions play a major role in the processing and use of fibres. References

[1] The textile Institute Guowen song Improving comfort in clothing [2]Roylance, David (2001). Engineering Viscoelasticity. Cambridge, MA 02139: Massachusetts Institute of Technology. pp. 811 [3] http://stellar.mit.edu/S/course/3/fa06/3.032/index.html [4] Meyers and Chawla (1999): Section 13.10 of Mechanical Behaviors of Materials, Mechanical behavior of Materials, 570580. Prentice Hall, Inc [5] A Theoretical study of the ironing process in sheet metal forming M. F. Shi,J. C. Gerdeen [6] Mario Theriault, Great Maritime Inventions 18331950, Goose Lane, 2001, p. 31 [7] The launders New York [8] Walter Lewin explains Hooke's law. From Walter Lewin (1 October 1999). Hooke's Law, Simple Harmonic Oscillator. MIT Course 8.01: Classical Mechanics, Lecture 10. (ogg) (videotape) (In English). Cambridge, MA USA: MIT OCW. Event occurs at 1:2110:10. Retrieved 23 December 2010. "...arguably the most important equation in all of Physics." [9] A.C. Ugural, S.K. Fenster, Advanced Strength and Applied Elasticity, 4th ed [10]http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/science/add_aqa/forces/forc eselasticityrev2.shtml [11]Physics Now Peter D. Riley [12] http://www.jitterbuzz.com/ironing_history.html

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