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Coloration

Methods of coloration

KNIT FABRIC
DYEING PRINTING FINISHING

The process by which a textile material is changed physically or chemically so that it looks colorful is called Coloration.

There are 2 types of methods 1. Continuous method 2. Discontinuous or exhaust method.

Continuous method:
This is the process where fabric moves continuously by the guide rollers. Fabric gets a very short time in liquor and goes to another bath in a continuous manner. So auxiliaries and additives can be applied in different bath. This process is done in open width form. So it has less crease mark problem. Normally dyeing of woven fabric is done by this method.

Continuous dyeing

Exhaust method:
This is the process by which exhaustion is done by immersing the fabric in dye bath. This is a discontinuous process. Fabric stays a long time in the liquor. This fabric is not connected to another bath. So all dye auxiliaries and additives are applied to fabric or liquor in the same bath. Dyeing is occurred in rope form, so there is some possibility of remaining the crease marks. Normally Knitted fabrics are dyed in this method.

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Discontinuous or exhaust dyeing

Sequence of Knit Fabric Dyeing

Lab dip approved Grey fabric inspection Batching Scouring & Bleaching Enzyme treatment ( If required ) Dyeing

Sequence of Knit Fabric Dyeing

Cold Wash Hot Wash Neutralization with Acetic Acid Soaping Fixing (If required ) Softening (If required )

Yarn Dyeing

Standard For Textile dye house water supply

PH should be in the range of 7-8. Water should be odorless & colorless. hardness max 70 ppm Solid content < 50 mg/L. Dissolved solids:<mg/L Inorganic salt < 500 mg/L Organic salt< 20 mg/L Iron (Fe) <0.1 mg/L Mn < 0.02 mg/L Copper (Cu)<0.005 mg/L Nitrate < 50 mg/L Nitrite<5mg/L

Fabric Dyeing

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Batching

Pre treatments

Scouring & Bleaching

Batching preparation is the process where inspected grey fabrics are divided into different batches with reasonable quantity according to machine capacity. It must be carefully observed that each Nozzle of a machine contains equal length of fabric.

Treatments before dyeing is called pretreatment. For example- Scouring, Bleaching, Enzyme wash, etc are the pretreatments.

Scouring is the process by which all natural and foreign impurities such as oil, wax, fat etc. are removed to produced hydrophilic and clean textile material. It is the vital process of wet processing. Bleaching is the process of removing natural color of the material and give a permanent white color. Scouring & Bleaching can be done in single stage or double stage. But mostly in single stage.

Scouring-Bleaching
For scouring & bleaching at first the fabric is loaded on to the bath . Required amount of water is taken to the bath . Wetting Agent & Anti creasing Agent is added. Scouring Agents (Caustic/Soda) & Stabilizer are added by the aid of dosing when the temperature reaches at 50 C. H202 is added by the aid of dosing system for 5' . Temperature is raised to 98 C & the process is carried for 60' The liquor is drained at 80 C. After that chemical wash & enzyme wash are done.

Curves for Scouring-bleaching

98 C 60' 80 C 60 C 5' 2 C /min 1) Anticreasing 2) Wetting Agent 3) sequestering Agent 4) Antifoam 5) stabilizer 6) Soda 7) Caustic

Function of the chemicals

Chemicals Caustic soda & Soda ash Wetting agent Sequestering agent Ant creasing agent Stabilizer Per oxide Function Neutralize acidic part, Remove oil-wax. Reduce surface tension & helps to get wet. De active metal ions (for hardness) Helps to avoid crease marks. Stable the oxidizing reaction of per oxide. Bleach the material by oxidation.

Room Temperature

H2O2

Cold Wash

Cold Wash

5'

5'

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Chemical Wash
80C 15' 60C 5'

Enzyme treatment
Enzyme treatment technologies are frequently applied in textile processing for the modification of fabric handle, appearance and other surface characteristics in regard to cotton and cotton blended fabrics. Hairiness of the surface is removed by enzyme treatment.

Enzyme Wash
70C 10' 55C 60'

Room Temperature

PH= 4.5-5

1) Oxalic Acid 2) Peroxide Killer 1 2

1) Acetic Acid 2) Bio-Polish 1 2

Cold Wash

Cold Wash

Cold Wash

Cold Wash

5'

5'

5'

5'

REACTIVE DYE

Properties of Reactive dye

Reactive dyes are used for dyeing cellulose, protein & polyamide fibers. Reactive dyes are found in powder, liquid & paste form. During dyeing the reactive group makes the covalent bond with fiber polymer & act as integral part of fiber. Reactive dyes are soluble in water. They have very good light fastness with rating of above 6. They have very good wash fastness with rating about 4-5 due to strong covalent bond formed. They give brighter shade and have moderate rubbing fastness. Reactive dyes are comparatively very cheap & easy to apply. Fixation occur in alkaline condition. They have very good perspiration fastness with rating about 4-5. Wide range of color can be produced by reactive dyes.

A dye, which is capable of reacting chemically with fabric to form a covalent dye-fabric linkage, is known as reactive dye. Here the dye contains a reactive group & this reactive group makes the covalent bond with fiber polymer & act as integral part of fiber.

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Classification of reactive dyes

On basis of reactivity: 3 types Lower reactive dyes: Here pH is maintained 1212.5 Medium reactive dyes: Here pH is maintained 1111.5 Higher reactive dyes: Here pH is maintained 1011

Classification of reactive dyes

On basis of application temperature: 3 types Cold brand: They Contains reactive group of high reactivity. Dyeing can be done in 320-600C. Medium brand: They Contains reactive group of moderate reactivity. Dyeing can be done in 600710C. Hot brand: They Contains reactive group of least reactivity. Dyeing can be done in 720-930C.

Assistants used for dyeing with reactive dyes

Salt: As a salt NaCl is used widely. Salt do the following thingsIt increases the affinity of fiber. It decreases the hydrolysis rate of dyes. It neutralizes the electro negativity of fiber. It increases the absorption of dyes. The amount of salt used depends upon the shade to be produced.

Dyeing of a pre treated fabric (Reactive Dyeing)

Alkali: Alkali is used for the following purposesIt is used to maintain the proper pH. It is used as a dye fixing agent. Without alkali no dyeing will take place. As strong alkali Caustic Soda is used. As medium alkali Soda ash is used. As weak alkali Sodium bi-carbonate is used. Soaping agent: By soaping the extra color is removed from fiber surface. Thus wash fastness is improved. Soaping increases the stability of dye. Dyeing Bath Preparation : Auxiliaries are added at 50 C Salt added by dosing system ( time : 10-20') pH maintained at 6.5-7

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A recipe of cotton dyeing by reactive dye

(Recipe can vary according to Time-Target-Place) Dye = x% Salt (NaCl) = Alkali (NaOH) = Temperature = (according to shade) (according to shade) (according to shade) 850C (For hot brand dye) 650C (For medium brand dye) Below 600C (For cold brand dye) 10 to 12.5 1:8 60 minutes
Shade Up to 0.5% 0.5-1% 1.0-2.0% 2.0-3.0% 3.0-4.0% Above 5% Salt (NaCl) g/L 20-30 30-40 40-50 50-60 60-70 90 Alkali (NaOH) g/L 6 8 8-11 11-14 14-15 15

Dyeing Mechanism

Exhaustion phase. Fixation phase. Post dyeing washing.

pH = M:L = Time =

Exhaustion phase
During this stage of dyeing, some reactive dye will be absorbed by the fibers, the amount depending upon substantivity of dye. This dye is capable of migration to promote level dyeing. Salt should be present initially or be added gradually to the dye bath during this phase to promote exhaustion. The temperature of the dye bath may also be gradually increased for penetration of dye into the fibers and to assist migration.

Fixation phase
After the initial exhaustion phase, the pH of the dye bath is increased by gradual addition of the appropriate type and amount of alkali. This causes the reaction of dyes with fiber. The fixation process then results in additional dye absorption, to re-establish the dyeing equilibrium. Dye absorption from solution and reaction with the fiber then in progress.

Post-dyeing washing

The dyed fabric contains dye bonded to the cellulose, but also not reacted dyes in the surface. There will also be residual alkali and salt. These should be removed and neutralized by successive rinsing in cold and then warm water. As much unfixed dye as possible must be washed out.

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Dyeing Procedure
Exhaustion & Fixation : Color dosing at 6O C for 20' After 30' soda ash added by dosing for 30-35' pH checked & maintained at 10.5 Dye bath is kept at 60 C for 40-60' After every 10' the sample is checked fixation occurs during this time. Rinse for 10' & liquor is drained.

Curves for Dyeing

60C 60'

1) Auxiliaries Room temperature 2) Salt 3) Color dosing (20-30') 4) Soda dosing (30-40')

Neutralization : The material should be neutralized to remove alkaline condition at room temperature by acid wash for 15 min & rinsing will be carried on for 10 min. Soaping : Then soaping agent is added & temperature raised to 90-100C for 10 min. The bath is cooled 7 rinsed for 10 min. Dye bath temperature then cooled to 60 C.

Curve (Cold, Hot and acid wash)

Cold Wash Cold Wash Cold Wash

Curve (Soap Wash)

Fixing & Softening (If necessary)
90C 8 0C

5'

5'

5'

60 C

The unfixed dyes can be fixed by using fixing agent. at 50C for 20 minutes. Softener is applied to soften the fabric as well as it improves the hand feel. The material is treated at 60C for 20 minutes. Then rinsing again & material unload.

60 C 10'

8 0C Acetic acid Soaping chemical 20'

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Curve (Fixing and softening)

50C 20

Production Parameters
Process Scouring Bleaching Temp(C) 98 55 70 60 10.2-10.8 pH 11.5-12 4.5-5 Time min 60' 60' 10' 60' 1:8 M : L ratio 1:8 1:8

Factors important to look out

The pH of the dye bath. The temperature of dyeing. The concentration of electrolyte (Salt) The time of dyeing. The liquor ratio.

Fixing agent

Enzyme wash Enzyme Deactivation Reactive Dyeing (Light Shade) Reactive Dyeing (Dark Shade)

40C 20

Softener & Acid

60

10.9-12

60'

1:8

Hydrolysis of Reactive dye

Under alkaline condition reactive dye reacts with the terminal hydroxyl group of cellulose. But if the solution of dye is kept for long time its concentration drops. Then the dye reacts with the hydroxyl group of water. This reaction of dyes with water is known as hydrolysis of reactive dye. After hydrolysis dye can not react with fiber. So hydrolysis increases the loss of dyes. For preventing hydrolysis the following precautions should be taken As hydrolysis increases with the increasing temperature; during dissolving & application, temperature should not be more than 400C. Dye & alkali solution can be prepared separately and mixed just before using. Dye & alkali should not be kept for long time after mixing.

Stripping of Reactive Dye

The reactive dye can not be satisfactorily stripped from fiber due to covalent bond between dye molecule & fiber. Stripping becomes necessary when uneven dyeing occurred. 1. Partial stripping: Partial stripping is done when shade become deeper than the requirement. Washing at 800C1000C with Soda Ash (2g/L) can also give stripping. Hydrolysis occurs in high pH. This theory is taken for removing partial color from fabric by wash in high pH. 2. Full stripping: For complete stripping fabric is treated with sodium hydrosulphite or hydrose (2g/L) at boiling temperature with NaOH (2g/L). NaOH is used for maintaining high pH.

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Different chemicals & Auxiliaries

Wetting agent: The chemical when applied on fabric can increase the wetting ability of fabric is called wetting agent. For example- Lissapol. Detergents: The chemical when applied on liquor can reduce the surface tension and remove the impurities from fabric that is called detergent. Such as- Soap.

Different chemicals & Functions

Levelling agent: The chemical which makes slow the dyeing rate so that even dyeing can occur is called leveling agent. Such as- Lyocol.

Different chemicals & Functions

Oxidizing agent: The chemical which can oxidize another material is called oxidizing agent. Such as- Hydrogen peroxide. Reducing agent: The chemical which causes the reduction of a material that is called reducing agent. Such as- Hydrose.

Dye fixing agent: The chemical which fix up the dye with the fabric or yarn with a linkage is called dye fixing agent. Such as- Fixanal.

Different chemicals & Functions

Rubbing fastness improver: The chemical which reduces the tendency of decay of fabric or dye by friction that is called rubbing fastness improver. Such as- Turkey red oil. Defoaming agent: The agent which prevents foam forming in liquor that is called defoaming agent. Such as- Defoama. Softening agent or softner: The agent which brings a softness in the surface of fabric is called softening agent. Such as- paraffin wax.

Different chemicals & Functions

Stiffening agent: The agent which brings a stiffness in the surface of fabric is called stiffening agent. Such as- Resin. Water proofing agent: The agent which prevent a fabric to absorb water is called water proofing agent. Such as- Rubber. Weighting agent: The chemical which increases the weight of fabric is called weighting agent. Such as- Calcium carbonate.

DISPERSE DYE
The term disperse dye have been applied to organic coloring substances which are free from ionizing groups are of low solubility and are suitable for dyeing hydrophobic fibers. The dye has derived its name for its insoluble aqueous dispersion. Of all the dyes, they are the smallest molecular size.

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Properties of Disperse dye

Disperse dyes are non-ionic dyes. They are ready made dyes and insoluble in water or have very low water solubility. Their solubility is at least 0.1 mg/L They are suitable for dyeing hydrophobic fibers. Carrier or dispersing agents are required for dyeing with disperse dyes. Disperse dyes light fastness with rating about 4-5. The wash fastness of disperse dye is in a rating of 3-4. Small molecular size of dye stuff. (2-3nm) They do not undergo any chemical change during dyeing.

Classification of disperse dye

(I) Low energy Dyes: These dyes are used to dye with carrier. For dyeing 770C temperature is required. They have poor resistance to sublimation. (II) Medium energy Dyes: These dyes are used to dye mostly in between 1040-1100C which provides better sublimation fastness than that of low energy dyes. (III) High energy dyes: These dyes are used to dye at temperature above 1290C and are suitable for continuous dyeing. They have the most sublimation resistance.

Assistants
Dispersing agent: As disperse dyes are water insoluble, a well dispersion of dyes is required for level dyeing. For this reason a special chemical is used for dispersing disperse dye that is named as dispersing agent. Carrier: A chemical which lowers the required temperature of dyeing with disperse dye by swelling action in the fiber which helps dye molecule to easy penetrate that is a carrier. Acetic acid pH required for disperse dyeing is 4-5. Acetic acid maintains the pH.

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Dyeing of polyester fabric with Disperse dye (carrier method)

Recipe: Dye = x% (0.5%-2.0%) Carrier (Phenol) = 3 g/L Acetic acid = 1 g/L Dispersing agent = 2 g/L Salt,(NH4)2SO4 = 1-2 g/L pH = 4-5.5 M:L = 1:10 Time = 60 minutes Temperature = 900C

Dyeing curve
90 0C 60' 3 0C/min

Dyeing of polyester fabric (High Temperature method)

Recipe: Dye = 3% Acetic acid = 1 g/L for maintaining pH Dispersing agent = 1 g/L pH = 4-5.5 M:L = 1:8 Time = 60 minutes Temperature = 1350C

for maintaining pH act as leveling agent

1

60 0C 15'

1) Fabric 2) Dye 3) Chemical 60 0C Wash off

Dyeing curve
135 0C 60' 3 0C/min

Carrier method vs HT method

Carrier method 1. Carrier is required for swelling 2. Lower dyeing temperature (8001000C) 3. Costly as carrier is used and required to remove. 4. Less bright shade. 5. Toxic & unhygienic process. 6. More shrinkage. 7. Method is not used now-a-days. High Temperature method 1. Swelling is done by high temperature 2. Higher dyeing temperature (10501350C) 3. Not so costly.

Textile Printing
Textile Printing : Textile Printing is one kind of localized dyeing that is dyes or pigments are applied locally or discontinuously to produce various design on the fabric with a motif or motives in one more colors. By the term Textile Printing we mean the localized application of dyes or pigments and chemicals by any method which can produce particular effect of color on the fabric according to the design.
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60 0C 15'

1) Fabric 2) Dye 3) Chemical 60 0C Wash off

4. More bright shade. 5. Nontoxic & hygienic process. 6. Less shrinkage. 7. Method is in use.

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Steps in Textile Printing:

Grey textiles / Raw mtls Preparation of textile mtls ( singeing, Desizing , bleaching scouring) Preparation of printing paste Printing (with a certain style and method) Drying of the printed fabric (in the drier) Steaming of the printed fabric (to transfer dye into fiber, 100-1020 C, 15 min in a steamer) After treatment (Soaping of washing)
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Difference between Dyeing & Printing

Dyeing Printing 1. There is no localized application, 1. This is the localized application of all over application of dyes and dyes/pigments on the fabric pigments. according to design. 2. Color is applied in form of 2. Color is applied in form of thick solution paste. 3. Fabric, yarn and fibers are dyed. 4. Generally a color is used. 3. Fabric is only printed 4. One or more color is used.

Printing Ingredients
Printing Ingredients: Dyes/Pigments. Wetting agent. Thickener. Solvents/dispersing agent. Defoaming agent. Oxidizing and reducing agent. Catalyst and oxygen carrier. Acid and alkalis. Carrier and swelling agents. Miscellaneous agents.
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5. Thickener is not used. 5. Thickener is used. 6. Steaming is not required on dyed 6. Steaming is used in the printed material. fabric for fixation. 7. More time is required 8. Less expensive. 9. Much amount of water is used 10. Liquor ratio is high. 7. Less time is required. 8. More expensive 9. Less amount of water is used. 10. Liquor Ratio is less.
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Discharge Printing
Discharge Printing is also called Extract Printing. This is a method of applying a design to dyed fabric by printing a color-destroying agent, such as chlorine or hydrosulfite, to bleach out a white or light pattern on the darker colored ground. In color-discharge printing, a dye impervious to the bleaching agent is combined with it, producing a colored design instead of white on the dyed ground. Discharge style of printing means the process which can produce a white or colour effect on a previously dyed ground.

Resist style of Printing

In this process, a substance is applied to the fabric that will prevent the fixation of any colouring agent employed afterwards on that area. In this technique, a resist paste is imprinted on the fabric and then it is dyed. The dye affects only those parts that are not covered by the resist paste. After dyeing, the resist paste is removed leaving a pattern on a dark background.
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FINISHING
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed & certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put to market.

In broad sense, the term finishing covers all the processes or, any operation (other than preparation and coloring) that improves the appearance and/or usefulness of fabric after it leaves the loom or knitting machine to the stage at which enters the market. It is the final processing of the cloth and its purpose is to make the fabric suitable for its intended end use.
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OBJECTIVE OF FINISHING
Textile finishes and finishing are classified in several ways.
Improving the appearance, luster, whiteness etc. Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material & its softness, flexibility, completeness, etc. Wearing qualities, non- soiling, anti crease, anti shrink, comfort etc . Special properties required for particular uses water proofing, flame proofing etc . Covering of the faults in the original cloth . Increasing the weight of the cloth if needed .

Classification of Finishing
According To Function
a) Aesthetic b) Functional Persons concerned with end products (designers, merchandisers and sales personnel) usually categorize finishes as aesthetic finishes and functional finishes. The former modify the appearance and/or hand (feel) of fabrics, while the latter improve the performance of a fabric under specific end use conditions.

cont

Textile finishes and finishing are classified in several ways

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According to the Quality of finishes a) Permanent b) Temporary c) Durable d) Semi durable Permanent finishes usually involve a chemical change in fiber structure and will not change or alter throughout the life of a fabric. Durable finishes usually last throughout the life of the article, but effectiveness becomes diminished after each cleaning, and near the end of the normal use life of the article, the finish is nearly removed. Semi-durable finishes last through several launderings or dry cleanings and many are renewable in home laundering or dry cleaning. Temporary finishes are removed or substantially diminished 75 the first time an article is laundered or dry cleaned.

Classification of Finishing
According To the Machine type
a) Chemical b) Physical/ Mechanical

cont

Classification of Finishing
Finishing

cont

Textile finishes and finishing are classified in several ways.

Definition Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread mostly employed to give cotton a lustrous appearance
According to the Qulaity of finishes Semidurable Shrinkage control Permanent Durable Temporary Antimicrbial
Sanforising

According To the Machine type

According To Function

Mechanical Finish

Chemical Finish

Aesthetics finishes

Functional Finishes

Persons concerned with textile processing (chemists and finishers) categorize finishes into chemical finishes and mechanical finishes. These are also called wet finishing and dry finishing, respectively.

Calendering

Transparent Finish

Mercerization

Flame proof

Calendering

Purpose Improve dye affinity

Improve breaking strength Improve dimensional stability Improve chemical reactivity Improve fabric smoothness Cover immature cotton fibers

Raising

Stiff finish

Sueding

Crease Resistant

Resin Finish Water Proof

Water Proof

Softening

Embossing

Sanforising

Flame retardant

Shearing

Soil release

Sueding

Water Repellent

Softening

Flame resistant

Flame retardant finish

Soil release

Stiffing

Shrinkage control

Soil release

Crease resistant finish

Water Proof / Repellent

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Compactor and Stenter

a

1-5 6 7

Swelling process in an alkaline solution Removal of alkali by water substitution After drying

Thank You

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