PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE BEDFORD CORDS The Bedford Cord class of weaves produces longitudinal warp

lines in the cloth with fine sunken lines in between. These cords are of two types. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Plain face Bedford Cords. Wadded Bedford Cords. Bedford cords arranged with alternate picks Twill faced Bedford Cords Crepon Bedford Cords

1. Plain Faced Bedford Cords In Plain faced Bedford Cords, there are two types of ends: 1. 2. The plain ends - These ends form the sunken lines between the raised cords. The cord ends These ends determine the actual cords. How to draw Plain faced Bedford Cords: On Even number of Threads Let us make a Bedford cord with 4 plain ends and 8 cord ends Let the cord is of 4 end wide. Step 1: Make a grid of total 12 ends and 4 picks. Indicate the plain ends at the end and at the middle. Pair of plain ends work in plain order with picks.

Step 2:

Insert mark on first and second picks of alternate cords as (o)

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

Step 3:

Insert plain weave on the cord ends thus left by marking ().

On Odd Number of Threads Size: 14 x 4

2. Wadded Bedford Cords These structure contain thick wadded ends. The object of the arrangement is to give prominence to the cords. How to insert wadded ends in ordinary Bedford cords: Let us take a Bedford cord as taken in the previous example.

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

Let us say, we want to insert wadded ends in the positions as indicated by the arrows. Thus if we insert wadded ends at this position, then these are indicated by two columns at these positions as:

Procedure to bind these wadded ends in the weave To bind the ends we raise these ends where picks float at the back and left these ends down where the picks interweave in plain order.

3. Bedford Cords arranged with alternate picks Bedford cords are also made with alternate pics floating at the back. In this case we proceed as follows: Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com

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a. The marks of the pairs of plain ends are indicated as shown at A. (.)

b. Then marks(o), which cut with the plain marks, are inserted on alternate horizontal spaces, as represented by B.

c. Now plain weave (X) is inserted on the blank horizontal spaces of the cords, as indicated at C. Here it may be noted that the plain does not join perfectly with the plain marks of the pairs of end.

4. Twill Faced Bedford Cords Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

Another modification of the Bedford cord structure consists of using a warp twill instead of plain weave for the picks which interweave on the face of the cord stripes. This brings the warp more prominently to the surface of the fabric. In this case we proceed as follows: a. The marks(.) of the pairs of plain ends are indicated as shown at A.

b. Then marks(o), which cut with the plain marks, are inserted on alternate horizontal spaces, as represented by B.

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE c. Now twill weave (X) is inserted on the blank horizontal spaces of the cords, as indicated at C.

Crepon Bedford cords Sometimes hard twisted weft is used. It shrinks and it causes the cords to stand up very prominently. For example in the following design, there are two picks of hard-twisted weft which alternate with two picks of ordinary weft.Here plain ends in one section are mid-way between those in the other section. When the fabric is finished, the hard twisted weft, which floats on the underside shrinks, and an irregular or

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE crepon effect is given to the fabric:

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