Fine Cooking 10.11.2012

20 Seasonal Side Dishes
page 42
Bake Now, Eat Later Make-Ahead

Holiday Desserts
risotto 101
Hearty Clam Chowder
New England, Manhattan & Rhode Island
how to cook in cast iron
A Cooks Guide to Salt

Cranberry-Almond Shortbread Tart, page 80
OCT/NOV 2012 No.119 www.finecooking.com
chewlicious
adjective : when food is so delicious that it is savored for as long as possible before being swallowed. The last bite of Wisconsin Gouda always proves to be the most chewlicious.
2011 Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, Inc.
Wisconsin Cheese
Outdo Ordinary
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o cto b e r / nov e m b e r 2 0 1 2 i s su e 1 1 9 f e at u r e s
contents
58 Heavy Metal
38 Turkey BBQ
Using every trick in her book, barbecue champion Lee Ann Whippen makes the best turkey youll ever have.
Inexpensive, nonstick, and practically indestructible, a cast-iron skillet rocks at almost any type of cooking. By Joanna Pruess
42 On the Side
64 Stirring the Chowder Pot
From classic to creative, 20 tasty vegetable dishes for your fall table. Recipes by Julissa Roberts
48 Apple Picking
With three types of clam chowder Manhattan, New England, and Rhode Islandin a contentious rivalry, we take the stance that theyre all good. By Allison Ehri Kreitler
With so many apple varieties, choosing can be a challenge. Heres how to suit the fruit to the recipe. By Greg Patent
70 Do the Twist
54 Chicken Cacciatore
Master bread baker Peter Reinhart shares his secrets for making soft, chewy pretzels at home.
A traditional recipe, plus a chefs creative spin. By Melissa Pellegrino and Shea Gallante
classic/classic update
76 Bake Now, Eat Later
Just in time for the holiday crunch: four irresistible and completely make-ahead sweet endings for your Thanksgiving meal. By Jill OConnor
Peeling apples for an Apple Upside-Down Cake, page52.
o cto b e r / nov e m b e r 2 0 1 2 i s su e 1 1 9
contents
28
85 22
19 30
d e pa r t m e n t s
10 Make It Tonight
Fast and Fresh
Just 30 minutes to dinner, start to finish.

Try This
26 Risotto

17 Marketplace

Pomegranates

When it comes to this classic Italian rice dish, theres as much comfort in the making as in the eating.
r epertoire
85 Test Kitchen

ips, techniques, equipment, ingrediT ents, and more, from our experts.
92 Pairings

What Were Cooking Now
corn Squash, Broccoli, Celery, Celery A Root, Grapes, Pears, Sunchokes, Swiss Chard, and Thyme Big Buy Cooking Pecans
28 Great Finds
d rinks What to drink with whats in this issue.
g o shopping Our latest buys for the kitchen and table.
22 The Science of Salt

f ood science
30 N ourishing Thanksgiving Traditions

t he good life
in every issue

The kitchens most popular seasoning and how it works.
24 The Reading List

books that cook
This holiday meal might seem like an unhealthy splurge, but many of its typical ingredients are better for you than you may think.
New must-reads for food lovers.
33 The Entertainers Kitchen

behind the kitchen door
6 8 9 94 95 96 98

Readers Letters Contributors FineCooking.com Nutrition Where to Buy it Menus Recipe Index
Award-winning restaurateur Tom Douglas serves hungry dinner guests with ease from his Seattle home kitchen.
fine cooking oct/nov 2012
Cover and Contents photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day; illustration by Steven Salerno
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l e t t e r f r o m t h e e d i to r
Drink This with That

Whether its a weeknight or a big holiday, when it comes to planning a menu, the food is really only half of the picture. What you choose to drink with it is the other half, and its a choice that can make or break your meal. Thats where our new Pairings column comes in. Written by our wine and spirits expert, contributing editor Patrick Watson, its an in-depth guide that not only gives a drink suggestion for every main dish in the issue but also explains why the pairing works so well. Patrick will explore new wine varietals, styles, and growing regions, as well as the more familiar ones. Hell go beyond wine, too, recommending beer and spirits when theyre a good match. To see for yourself, turn to page 92. To learn more about Patrick, check out his bio on page 8. Cheers! Jennifer Armentrout, editor
Jennifer Armentrout Don Morris Shelley Wiseman Rebecca Freedman Denise Mickelsen Associate Editor Layla Schlack Senior Copy/ Enid Johnson Production Editor Associate Art Director Pamela Winn Staff Photographer Scott Phillips Photo Editor/Stylist Kelly Coughlan Gearity Associate Food Ronne Day Editor/Stylist Assistant Food Editor Julissa Roberts Administrative Assistant Diane Patterson Test Kitchen Assistant Abby Simchak Test Kitchen Intern Peter Fritz Photography Intern Kevin Keane Editor at Large Susie Middleton Consulting Editor at Large Joanne Weir Contributing Editors Melissa Denchak Tasha DeSerio Abigail Johnson Dodge Maryellen Driscoll Allison Ehri Kreitler Ellie Krieger Kimberly Y. Masibay Melissa Pellegrino Tony Rosenfeld Joanne Smart Molly Stevens Patrick Watson Special Projects Editor Kathy Kingsley Senior Managing Editor, Carolyn Mandarano Books FineCooking.com Senior Web Producer Sarah Breckenridge Web Producer Robyn Doyon-Aitken Editor Art Director Senior Food Editor Senior Editors
readers letters
When the chips are down

In Fabulous Fish & Chips (August/ September), you say that the chips should be crisp and golden. In Britain, the fried chips that accompany battered, fried fish are not crisp in any way. Theyre usually a bit squishy. If you want your fish and chips to be authentic, only the fish should be crisp. Peggy Pilgrim, Spruce Grove, Alberta
Editors response: The double-frying method we used is traditional and will make the chips crisp on the outside. Many chip shops wrap chips in paper or serve them in closed containers, which traps steam and makes the chips squishy. Another factor, which we mention in the story, is that crowding the chips while they fry can make them soggy, and some shops may do that. Having crisp chips is all the more reason to make your own.
them. When I started reading your magazine, I was young, with little family responsibility, and I was thrilled to spend most of Saturday preparing an elaborate dinner. Now that I have a career and a family, I love having great recipes for weekdays. When Im retired and have time for elaborate meals once again, Ill still look to Fine Cooking. Tristin Wayte, Vancouver, British Columbia
Corn in a hurry
You had wonderful recipes in the August/September issue. When it comes to 10-minute corn recipes (Corn in 10), however, I wondered why anyone would want to heat up a pot of water to boil four ears of corn when you can microwave the same four ears in their husks in 8 minutes (cooking time is 2 minutes per ear). I have been cooking my corn this way for 20 years. Barbara Fox, Montgomery, New York
Test kitchens response: Thanks for
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Cooking through the years

I had to respond to Michelle Denniss letter in the August/September issue about wanting more challenging recipes. Ive also noticed more quickand-easy recipes in Fine Cooking lately, maybe because Ive been looking for
writing; thats a great suggestion. Your microwave method works well, but it does have a minor drawback: Microwaving with the husks on means that the ears dont get inspected for worms before cooking.
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c o n t r i b u to r s
My favorite piece of kitchen equipment

is my KitchenAid mixer; I plan to be
A graduate of the London Cordon Bleu, Jill OConnor (Bake Now, Eat Later, page76) began her career as the pastry chef for the Golden Door Spa in southern California. She is the author of six cookbooks, including Sweet Nothings, Simple French Desserts, and Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey.
If I werent a chef I would be a screen The dish I most want to learn to cook is
writer. I have fantasies about creating the next Mad Men.
buried with it.
Though he has a Ph.D. in zoology, Greg Patent (Apple Picking, page 48) studies and writes about food and cooking. The author of seven cookbooks, Patent won a James Beard Award for Baking in America. He hosts The Food Guys on Montana public radio and blogs at thebakingwizard.com. My desert-island food is chocolatecovered caramels because they combine my two favorite foods.
To contact us: Fine Cooking The Taunton Press 63 South Main Street PO Box 5506 Newtown, CT 06470-5506 Tel: 203-426-8171 Send an email to: fc@taunton.com Visit: www.finecooking.com To submit an article proposal: Write to Fine Cooking at the address above or Call: 800-309-0744 Fax: 203-426-3434 Email: fc@taunton.com To subscribe or place an order: Visit www.finecooking.com/fcorder or call: 800-888-8286 9am-9pm et Mon-Fri 9am-5pm et Sat To find out about Fine Cooking products: Visit www.finecooking.com/products To get help with online member services: Visit www.finecooking.com/customerservice To find answers to frequently asked questions: Visit www.finecooking.com/FAQs To contact Fine Cooking customer service: Email us at support@customerservice.taunton.com To speak directly to a customer service professional: Call 800-477-8727 9am-5pm et Mon-Fri To sell Fine Cooking in your store: Call us toll-free at 866-452-5179, or email us at tradecs@taunton.com To advertise in Fine Cooking: Call 800-309-8940, or email us at fcads@taunton.com Mailing list: We make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you would prefer that we not include your name, please visit: www.finecooking.com/privacy or call: 800-477-8727 9am-5pm et Mon-Fri For employment information: Visit careers.taunton.com The Taunton guarantee: If at any time youre not completely satisfied with Fine Cooking, you can cancel your subscription and receive a full and immediate refund of the entire subscription price. No questions asked.
My most recent kitchen purchase is
sfogliatelle [layered, shell-shaped Italian pastries]. I tried to make them once and am still recovering.
The most overrated food on the Thanksgiving table is the turkey.
a 1960s KitchenAid mixer on eBay. It beats eggs way better than the new machines do.
My latest kitchen purchase was

Microplanes in various sizes.
My latest food discovery is not so
much a discovery, but Im really into canning, curing, and jams.
Joanna Pruess (Heavy Metal, page 58) is an award-winning author of ten cookbooks, including Seduced by Bacon. A world traveler, she also teaches cooking classes and speaks regularly about food and cultural anthropology. My favorite food splurge is salted cracklingsthey are pure heaven. My favorite comfort food is a perfectly roasted chicken.
A professional opera singer turned sommelier, Patrick Watson (Pairings, page 92) co-owns two wine stores (Smith & Vine and Brooklyn Wine Exchange, where classes and tastings are held), a wine bar (The Jakewalk), and a cheese shop (Stinky Bklyn), all in Brooklyn, New York. My drink of choice is an old Austrian Riesling. The best thing about my job is a continuous learning curve.
The strangest thing I ever ate was
The three items always in my refrigera-
sheeps eyes served by a Saudi adviser to the king.
tor are Joselito chorizo, Cato Corners Hooligan cheese, and McClures pickles.
Copyright 2012 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No reproduction without permission of The Taunton Press, Inc.
f i n e c o o k i ng o c t / n o v 2 0 1 2
Photographs from top left by Melissa Perkins Weisbrod, Steven Johnson, Alvaro Mantagna, Kelly Gorham, Kelly Neal, courtesy of the author
Barbecue champion Lee Ann Whippen (Turkey BBQ, page 38) is the chef/ owner of Wood Chicks BBQ in Virginia and Chicago Q restaurant in the Windy City. She competes in barbecue competitions around the country and bested Bobby Flay during a pulled-pork throw down on the Food Network. My favorite food splurge is steamed lobster with drawn butter. If I were not a chef I would be an airline pilot, like my father; I actually took flying lessons when I was younger. My latest food discovery is smoking meats over pomegranate wood.
Shea Gallante (Chicken Cacciatore, page 54) is the executive chef and co-owner of Ciano in New York City. Previously, he was executive chef at Cru, which was awarded three stars by The New York Times during his tenure. My guilty food pleasure is sharing a bag of Skittles with my son.
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Just 30 minutes to dinner, start to finish
asian turkey noodle soup with bok choy

Borrowed from Chinese immigrants, this simple dish is a classic comfort food in Hawaii, where its known as long rice. Despite the name, theres no rice here; the slippery, transparent noodles are made from mung beans. Look for them in the Asian section of well-stocked supermarkets, or swap in rice vermicelli. This recipe is a great use for leftover Thanksgiving turkey. Serves 4
4 o z. thin uncooked glass noodles (see Test Kitchen, p. 85, for more information) 4 cups lower-salt chicken or turkey broth 3 large cloves garlic, smashed and peeled 1 2 -inch-long piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced, slices smashed 1 m edium head bok choy (about 8oz.), sliced inch thick crosswise (about 3cups) 2 c ups coarsely shredded cooked turkey or chicken 2 s callions, both white and green parts, thinly sliced
1 Tbs. soy sauce; more for serving
Put the noodles in a large bowl and cover with hot tap water; let soak while you prepare the other ingredients. In a 3-quart saucepan, bring the broth, garlic, ginger, and soy sauce to a rapid simmer over medium-high heat. Cover and continue to simmer for 10minutes; remove and discard the garlic and ginger.
Add the glass noodles to the broth and cook until nearly transparent (you should see only a tiny thread of white in the center of each noodle), about 4minutes. Using tongs, distribute the noodles among 4bowls. Add the bok choy to the broth and cook, uncovered, just until the white parts start to become tender, 3to 4minutes. Using a hand-held strainer or slotted spoon, remove the bok choy and distribute among the bowls. Add the turkey to the broth and simmer just until heated through, about 30seconds. Distribute the turkey and broth among the bowls. Top with the scallions and serve with more soy sauce on the side. Dabney Gough
10
f i n e c o o k i n g o ct / n o v 2 0 1 2
pork chops with cranberry-maple pan sauce

Fresh cranberries color the sauce a vibrant red, and their tart edge is a perfect counterpoint to the sweet maple syrup. Serves 4
4 1-inch-thick bone-in pork chops (about 21/2 lb.) 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 11/2 Tbs. olive oil 1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries 1/2 cup lower-salt chicken broth
cider-glazed chicken thighs

This recipe couldnt be simpler: Just roast the chicken until cooked through, brush with a three-ingredient glaze, and broil until golden-brown. Roasted sweet potato and onion wedges make a nice accompaniment. Serves 4
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, trimmed 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup pure maple syrup 2 tsp. cider vinegar 2 tsp. Dijon mustard
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup apple cider 1 Tbs. honey 1 Tbs. cold unsalted butter, cut into -inch pieces
Pat the pork dry and season with 1tsp. of the thyme, 11/4tsp. salt, and 3/4tsp. pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering hot. Add the pork chops and cook without moving until the pork is browned around the edges and easily releases when you lift a corner, 3to 4minutes. Flip the pork chops and continue to cook until firm to the touch and an instant-read thermometer inserted horizontally into a chop
close to but not touching the bone registers 140F, about 9minutes. Transfer the chops to a plate and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. Add the cranberries, chicken broth, maple syrup, cider vinegar, mustard, and the remaining 1tsp. thyme to the skillet and raise the heat to medium high. Cook, whisking to incorporate the mustard and any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, until the cranberries soften and the liquid has reduced to a saucy consistency, about 7minutes. Return the pork chops and any accumulated juice to the skillet, turning to coat both sides. Serve the pork chops with the sauce. Tony Rosenfeld
Touch here to sign up for our daily Make it Tonight eLetter, packed with quick weeknight meal ideas.
Position a rack 6 inches from the broiler and heat the oven to 450F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil. In a large bowl, toss the chicken thighs with the oil, 1tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper. Put a rack on the baking sheet and arrange the chicken thighs skin side up on the rack. Roast until the thighs are lightly golden and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part without touching the bone registers 165F, about 20minutes. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring the cider and honey to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer vigorously until the mixture has reduced to cup, 8to 10minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter. Turn the broiler to high, brush the chicken thighs with the cider glaze, and broil for 1minute. Brush with more glaze and broil again until deep golden-brown, 2to 3minutes. Remove the chicken from the oven, brush with more of the glaze, and serve. Melissa Pellegrino
f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m
11
leek and goat cheese frittata

The high ratio of leeks to eggs in this frittata brings the leeks sweet flavor and meltingly tender texture to the forefront. Serve with a simple garden lettuce salad and thinly sliced prosciutto or Serrano ham on the side. Serves 4
3 Tbs. unsalted butter 2 Tbs. olive oil 3 l arge leeks (white and light-green parts only), halved lengthwise, sliced on the diagonal 1/2 inch thick, and rinsed Kosher salt 6 large eggs Freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme 3 oz. goat cheese, crumbled
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350F. Heat 2 Tbs. of the butter and 1Tbs. of the olive oil in a 10-inch, ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter has melted, add the leeks and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until the leeks are tender and lightly browned, about 6minutes. Transfer to a plate, spread in an even layer, and let cool briefly. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with 1tsp. salt and several grinds of pepper. Add the leeks, thyme, and goat cheese and gently stir to combine. Wipe the skillet clean and heat the remaining 1Tbs. each butter and olive oil over medium-low heat. When the butter has melted, add the egg mixture and gently shake the pan to evenly distribute the leeks and cheese. Cook until the eggs begin to set around the edges, about 5minutes. Gently shake the pan to be sure the frittata isnt sticking (if necessary, slide a spatula around the perimeter to release it). Transfer the pan to the oven and continue to cook until the frittata is set in the center, about 5minutes. Remove from the oven and let sit for about 2minutes. Carefully slide the frittata onto a serving plate, cut into wedges, and serve warm or at room temperature. Tasha DeSerio
skirt steak with mushrooms and shallots

The classic combination of steak and mushrooms comes together quickly in this simple weeknight meal. Serve with roasted potatoes, an arugula salad, and crusty bread to mop up the sauce. Serves 4
1 l b. skirt steak, trimmed and cut crosswise into 4 pieces K osher salt and coarsely ground black pepper 5 Tbs. olive oil
3/4 l b. cremini mushrooms, cut into -inch-thick slices (about 41/2 cups) 1 l arge shallot, finely chopped (1/4cup) 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
cup dry white wine 1 cups lower-salt chicken broth 2 T bs. cold unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
Pat the steaks dry and season with salt and pepper. In a heavyduty 12-inch skillet (preferably cast iron), heat 2Tbs. of the olive
oil over high heat until shimmering hot. Cook the steaks in a single layer, flipping with tongs halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the steak registers 130F for medium rare, 5to 7minutes total (if necessary, lower the heat to medium high to finish cooking the thicker pieces). Transfer to a plate and let rest, loosely covered with foil, while making the sauce. Heat 2Tbs. of the olive oil in the skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the mushrooms and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spatula, until golden-brown, 6to8 minutes.
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Abby Simchak
pan-seared catfish with creamy greens

Paprika, celery salt, and cayenne make a bright, slightly spicy rub for this mild fish. Serves 2
Kosher salt 3 Tbs. canola oil 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced (cup) 2 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced Freshly ground black pepper 11/4 lb. fresh curly kale or mustard greens (about 2bunches)
cup crme frache or sour cream 11/4 tsp. sweet paprika 1/2 tsp. celery salt 1 / 8 tsp. cayenne 2 6-oz. catfish fillets 11/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Transfer to a bowl and keep warm. Lower the heat to medium, add the remaining 1Tbs. olive oil, the shallot, and thyme and cook, stirring, until the shallot is slightly browned, about 1minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan to dissolve any browned bits, until the liquid has almost evaporated, about 1minute. Add the chicken broth. Raise the heat to high and boil, adding any juice that has accumulated from the steak and mushrooms, until the sauce is reduced to about 1 / 3cup, about 7minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter. Stir in the mushrooms and season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Thinly slice the steaks diagonally across the grain, if you like, and serve topped with the mushroom sauce. Tasha DeSerio
Bring a large heavy-duty pot of well-salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, tear the kale leaves from their ribs. Discard the ribs and tear the leaves into bite-size pieces. Wash well. Cook the greens in the boiling water until tender, about 5minutes. Drain in a large-mesh sieve, pressing firmly on the greens with the back of a large spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Using the same pot, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until tender but not browned, about 2minutes. Return the greens to the pot, add the crme frache, and toss with tongs to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper; remove from the heat, cover, and keep warm. In a small bowl, combine the paprika, celery salt, cayenne, and 1/4tsp. each salt and pepper. In a heavy-duty 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 2Tbs. oil over medium-high heat. Brush the catfish with the lemon juice and sprinkle both sides evenly with the spice mixture. Put the fish in the pan, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until browned, 4minutes. Carefully flip the fish with a spatula and cook until it flakes easily when tested with a fork, 3to 4minutes. Serve the fish over the greens. Ivy Manning
13
sauted shrimp and pancetta with cheese grits

If you cant find quick-cooking grits, you can use quickcooking polenta insteadjust be sure to follow the packages instructions for the correct cooking time and the amount of liquid needed. Serves 4
3 Tbs. olive oil 2 s mall leeks (white and light-green parts only), halved lengthwise, thinly sliced, and rinsed (1cups) Kosher salt 2 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 cup quick-cooking grits (not instant) 4 oz. extra-sharp Cheddar, coarsely grated (about 1cup) Freshly ground black pepper 2 oz. 1 / 8-inch-thick sliced pancetta, cut into 1 / 8 x1-inch strips
3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
penne with sausage, fennel, and pecorino

This hearty fall pasta gets a double dose of fennel flavor, from both fresh fennel and fennel seed in the sausage. Serves 4
Kosher salt 4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 m edium yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced (about 3cups) 1 l arge fennel bulb (about 1 lb.), halved, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise (about 4 cups) 2 Tbs. chopped fresh sage 1 cup lower-salt chicken broth 1 o z. finely grated Pecorino Romano (1cup using a rasp grater); more for serving Freshly ground black pepper
11/2 lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.), peeled and deveined 1/4 tsp. cayenne large green bell pepper, seeded and finely diced (3/4cup) 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
12 oz. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
10 oz. dried penne
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, heat 2Tbs. of the oil in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring and breaking it up into smaller pieces with the edge of a slotted metal spoon, until browned and cooked through, about 5minutes. Use the spoon to transfer the sausage to a paper-towellined plate and pour off any fat left in the skillet. Set the skillet over medium-high heat and add the remaining 2Tbs. oil and the onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens and begins to brown, about 10minutes. Stir in the fennel, sage, and tsp. salt. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fennel is softened and the onion is golden, about 5minutes. Add the cooked sausage and chicken broth and cook, stirring, until heated through, about 2minutes. Meanwhile, cook the penne in the boiling water, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, 10to 11minutes. Reserve 1cup of the pasta water and drain the pasta in a colander. Return the pasta to the pot over medium-high heat and stir in the sausage mixture until well combined. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese, 1/4tsp. pepper, and enough reserved pasta water to moisten, if necessary. Distribute among 4 bowls and sprinkle with additional cheese. David Bonom
In a heavy-duty 4- to 5-quart pot, heat 2Tbs. of the oil over medium heat. Add the leeks and tsp. salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 4to 5minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for another 30seconds. Add the chicken broth and tsp. salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Whisk in the grits, return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium low and cook, partially covered, stirring frequently, until the broth has been absorbed and the grits are thick, about 5minutes. Add the cheese and stir to melt. Season to taste with salt and pepper, remove from the heat, cover, and keep warm. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, cook the pancetta in the remaining 1Tbs. oil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and starting to crisp, about 5minutes. Meanwhile, pat the shrimp dry and put them in a large bowl. Sprinkle with the cayenne and tsp. black pepper and toss to combine. Add the green pepper to the skillet and cook, stirring, until softened, 3to 4minutes. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until pink and just cooked through, 2to 3minutes. Stir in the parsley. Distribute the grits among 4 shallow bowls and serve the shrimp mixture over the grits. Nadia Arumugam
14
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16
M a r k e t p l ac e
Shop Smarter, Eat Better
try this
Pomegranates
Beneath its turreted crown and crimson rind, a pomegranate is filled with tight clusters of ruby-red seeds. Bursting with sweet-tart juice, these small jewels are among fall and winters greatest treats, adding bright flavor and a festive splash of color to sweet and savory dishes alikeas long as you can resist popping them into your mouth first. Continued on page 18
17
try this
pomegranates
Wonderful is most common

Believed to have originated in Persia (todays Iran), pomegranates grow on small, shrubby trees in hot, dry regions. Botanically known as Punica granatum, or apple with many seeds, each fruit contains hundreds of arils (the proper term for the juicy flesh that encases the actual seeds). Pomegranates have long been a kitchen staple in India, Iran, and Turkey; its only in recent years that theyve become popular in the United States for their flavor and antioxidant powers. Varieties range in color from brick red to yellow and in size from 3to 5inches in diameter. The U.S. market is dominated by the variety Wonderful. Primarily grown in California and available October through January, Wonderfuls are about the size of a grapefruit and have a purple-red rind.
chocolatepomegranateginger bark
Impressive-looking yet quick and simple to make, this confection makes a perfect holiday or hostess gift. Serves 6
10 oz. bittersweet chocolate (60% cacao), broken into 1-inch pieces 1 cup fresh pomegranate seeds (from 1 large pomegranate) 1 Tbs. minced candied ginger tsp. fine sea salt
Pomegranates keep for months

Once picked, pomegranates stop ripening. Look for those with firm, smooth, freshlooking rinds and no soft spots. They should be uniform in color and feel heavy with juice. Minor surface blemishes are fine. Stored at room temperature, whole pomegranates will keep for several days. In a plastic bag in the refrigerator, theyll last for up to three months. Refrigerate loose seeds in a zip-top bag for up to three days, or freeze them for up to six months.
Pair with sweet or savory foods

Equal parts tart and sweet, pomegranate seeds can be sprinkled over yogurt or oatmeal, tossed into salads, added to pancake or muffin batter, muddled and stirred into lemonade or sparkling wine, or mixed into salsas, relishes, or chutneys. They make a great addition to chocolate (see the recipe at right). Of course, theyre delicious eaten out of hand, too. The juice is equally versatile. Buy it in the supermarket produce section or make your own: Blend the seeds until liquefied, then strain. Try it in citrusy vinaigrettes, as a poaching liquid for pears, or in glazes or pan sauces for chicken, duck, or pork. Use it to make sorbet or granitas. Boil it down with sugar until syrupy and add to cocktails, such as planters punch. Pomegranate pairs well with citrus, warming spices, nuts, rich meats such as lamb, duck, and pork, and cheeses like feta, goat, and Brie there are as many possibilities as there are seeds in a pomegranate. Melissa Denchak, contributing editor
Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or waxed paper. Put the chocolate in a wide, shallow microwave-safe bowl and microwave on high until it just starts to melt, about 1 minute. Stir with a spatula until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth, heating in additional 15-second increments, if necessary. Gently stir half of the pomegranate seeds, the ginger (break up any clumps with your fingers), and the salt into the chocolate. Scrape the chocolate mixture onto the baking sheet and spread it into an 8x10-inch rectangle. Sprinkle the remaining pomegranate seeds evenly over the top, pressing them into the chocolate. Refrigerate until fully set, about 30 minutes. Break the bark into chunks with your hands (be careful not to crush the seeds), and serve. The bark will keep, refrigerated, for up to 5 days M. D.
Use water to seed a pomegranate

If you try to just cut open the fruit and scoop out the seeds, youll stain your fingers and clothes. Instead, begin by removing the pomegranates crown and lightly scoring its rind into quarters from end to end. Soak the fruit in a bowl of cool water for five minutes; then break the still-submerged fruit into sections with your fingers and gently remove the seeds. Discard the bitter rind, pith, and bits of membrane (which will float to the top) and then drain the seeds in a sieve. A medium, 9-oz. pomegranate yields about cup seeds. Watch a video of this technique
18
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
AT THE MARKET
What were cooking now

Fine Cooking editors (and a reader) share some delicious ideas for in-season ingredients. Sweet and Smoky Acorn Squash Slow-Cooked Celery Root with Pearl Onions
Cut 2 seeded acorn squash into 1-inch wedges and toss with olive oil, pure maple syrup, chipotle powder, and salt. Transfer to a large, foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with coarse sea salt. Bake in a very hot oven until browned and tender. Julissa Roberts Peel and cut celery root into 1-inch cubes. Put in a small Dutch oven with butter, peeled pearl onions, and salt. Cook, covered, over very low heat, letting the vegetables steam in their own moisture until very tender, about 1 hour. Shelley Wiseman
Penne with Roasted Broccoli and Sausage
Swiss Chard Chips
On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss bite-size broccoli florets with olive oil, salt, and crushed red pepper flakes. Remove sweet Italian sausage from its casing and crumble over the broccoli. Roast in a hot oven, tossing occasionally, until the sausage is cooked through. Toss with cooked penne, golden raisins, finely grated ParmigianoReggiano, salt, and pepper. Denise Mickelsen
Remove the stems from a bunch of Swiss chard. Rinse the leaves thoroughly, pat dry, and tear coarsely into 2-inch pieces. Toss with kosher salt and crushed red pepper flakes. Spread in a single layer on a nonstick baking sheet and bake until the leaves are crisp and slightly darker but still green. Layla Schlack
Honey-Thyme Roasted Pears
Grape and Celery Salad

Combine thinly sliced celery and halved grapes in a medium bowl. Toss with thinly sliced fresh mint and basil leaves and a vinaigrette made with stone-ground mustard, white wine vinegar, and olive oil. Ronne Day
Photographs by Scott Phillips, except bottom left, courtesy of Christiane Potts
Arrange peeled, cored pear halves cut side up in a buttered baking dish. Drizzle with lemon juice and honey, and dot with butter. Add a splash of water and tuck fresh thyme sprigs around the pears. Roast in a medium oven until starting to soften, basting occasionally. Turn the pears cut side down and roast until very tender and caramelized. Serve with vanilla ice cream or crme frache, or add to a cheese plate or salad. Jennifer Armentrout
ONE READERS SEASONAL SPECIALTY
Sunchoke and Shallot Salad In a saucepan, simmer sunchokes in enough water to cover until tender. Drain and cool slightly. In a large bowl, whisk together white wine vinegar, salt, pepper, and a pinch of garlic powder. Slowly whisk in canola oil and olive oil. Carefully remove the sunchoke skins, slice thickly, and add to the vinaigrette along with thinly sliced shallots. Toss and allow the avors to meld for at least an hour. Stir in chopped fresh parsley just before serving. Christiane Potts, Winston-Salem, North Carolina
19
BIG BUY COOKING
Pecans
They may be pricey, but their rich, buttery flavor is worth every penny. B Y S H E L L E Y W I S E M A N
PECANSLETS SAY IT TOGETHER: pih-KAHNS (not PEE-kans)get lots of attention around Thanksgiving, with pecan-studded stu ngs and pies gracing holiday tables. This is tting since pecans are native to North America, but theyre always good to keep on hand simply because theyre so delicious. They have a deep, almost sweet avor and a wonderfully crumbly texture thats even better when theyre toasted. A two-pound bag at a big-buy store retails for about $8 a pound, so its a bargain compared to the smaller bags of nuts sold at the grocery store. And while two pounds may seem like a lot of nuts, youll y through them with the recipes here: maple spiced nuts that are perfect for a predinner nibble, a sweet-and-savory salad with Asian pears and pecans, and steak topped with a decadent pecan-studded blue cheese butter. Just one piece of advice: When measuring the pecans for these recipes, always include a few extra because its impossible to resist snacking on them.
The Big Buy

pecan halves. How much: A twopound bag. How to store: Like all nuts, pecans can turn rancid because of their fat content. If you plan to use them soon after buying, keep them well sealed at room temperature. Otherwise, freeze in a zip-top freezer bag; they will keep that way for months.
What: Shelled
beef tenderloin with roquefort-pecan butter

These tender steaks, topped with a tangy blue cheese and toasted nut butter, make for a main course thats ready in minutes but feels like you fussed. Serves 4
2 oz. (1/2 cup) pecan halves, chopped 4 11/2-inch-thick center-cut beef tenderloin steaks (6 to 7 oz. each) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbs. vegetable oil 3 oz. Roquefort, at room temperature 2 oz. ( cup) unsalted butter, softened 2 Tbs. whole flat-leaf parsley leaves
20
Fine cooking ocT/noV 2012
maple and black pepper pecans

These addictive spicy-sweet nuts are just the thing to serve with cocktails. Yields 2 cups; serves 8
1 Tbs. egg white (1/2 large egg white), lightly beaten
Kosher salt cup pure maple syrup 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly 8 oz. (2 cups) pecan halves
pecan, radicchio, and asian pear salad

Crisp, juicy Asian pears play off the crunchy buttered and toasted pecans and tender bitter greens in this colorful salad. Roasted walnut oil adds a welcome richness. Serves 4
3 oz. (3/4 cup) pecan halves, cut in thirds lengthwise 2 tsp. unsalted butter
Coarsely ground black pepper
Kosher salt 11/2 Tbs. sherry vinegar 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar Freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbs. roasted walnut oil 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 small head (4 oz.) radicchio, cored, leaves separated and torn into 3 or 4 pieces (4 lightly packed cups) 3 oz. frise, trimmed and torn into bitesize pieces (4 lightly packed cups) 1 medium (9 oz.) Asian pear, quartered lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise (1 cup)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350F. Put the pecans on a small rimmed baking sheet and toast until fragrant and pale golden on the cut sides, 6to 8minutes. Add the butter and 1/2tsp. salt and toss with two heatproof spatulas until the butter is melted and absorbed by the nuts. Set the nuts aside (they can be added to the salad warm or at room temperature). In a small bowl whisk together the vinegar, sugar, and 1/4tsp. each salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in the oils until well combined. Combine the radicchio, frise, and pear in a large salad bowl and toss with just enough vinaigrette to coat. Add the nuts, toss, and serve.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325F. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg white with 1tsp. salt until very frothy, about 1minute. Whisk in the maple syrup, butter, and 2tsp. pepper; then stir in the pecans with a heatproof spatula. Spread the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring once or twice with the spatula, until they have absorbed all the glaze and are a shade darker, 15to 20minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool for about 5minutes. Stir with the spatula and continue to cool until crisp, about 5minutes more. The pecans will keep in an airtight container for 2weeks.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350F. Put the pecans on a small rimmed baking sheet and toast until fragrant and pale golden on the cut sides, 6to 8minutes. Let cool completely. Pat the steaks dry and season with 1 tsp. salt and tsp. pepper. Heat a 10-inch ovenproof, heavy-duty skillet (preferably cast iron; dont use a nonstick skillet) over medium-high heat for 2minutes. Add the oil and swirl the skillet to coat. Add the steaks and cook, flipping once with tongs, until well browned on both sides, 6to 7minutes total. Transfer the skillet to the
oven and cook the steaks until an instantread thermometer registers 125F for medium rare, 5to 6minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mash together the cheese and butter with a fork and then stir in the pecans. Remove the skillet from the oven and top the steaks with the Roquefort butter. Let the steaks rest in the pan, loosely covered with foil, for 5minutes. Serve sprinkled with the parsley leaves.
Fo r s o u r c e s , s e e W h e r e t o B u y I t
21
food science
the science of
Salt
The kitchens most popular seasoning and how it works.

b y a n d r e w s c h lo s s a n d D av i d j o a c h i m
salt, the only rock we eat, is more than just a seasoningits an essential flavor in our food. It can intensify aromas, balance other flavors, make meat taste juicier, and preserve food for months or even years. Yet a heavy hand with salt can easily ruin a dish. Heres how to cook wisely with the worlds most vital mineral.
and balance other tastes like sweet and sour (salt added to desserts or vinaigrettes, for example). Salt also unravels (or denatures) the tight spiral structure of proteins, making their flavors tastier and more aromatic. Even the texture of salt enhances the taste of food. Flake salts like Maldon or Halen Mn Gold sprinkled over a green salad transmit crunchy bursts of saltiness that enhance the soft texture and mild flavors of lettuce leaves and other vegetables. And surprisingly, salt brings out aromas, too, because it helps release aroma molecules from food into the air. These stimulate our olfactory receptors, helping us to smell things.
This process illustrates salts role in preserving meat for jerky, ham, or hard-cured salami. The salted meat is placed in circulating air, which evaporates emerging water so the meat dries out. Because microorganisms need moisture to survive, drying meat makes it inhospitable to molds and bacteria, thereby lengthening the storage life of some sausages and hams for months.
How does briningsoaking meat in a salt solutionmake it juicier?

In brining, the moisture flow described above is reversed. The concentration of salt in the brine is more dilute than the protein-rich liquid inside the meat cells, and so the brine moves into the flesh. There, the water from the brine bonds to the proteins, resulting in juicier meats. As salt enters the meat cells, it alters the structure of the muscle fibers and proteins, swelling their water-holding capacity by about 10 percent. Since most meat loses about 20 percent of its moisture during cooking, brining meat can cut moisture losses by almost half.
How does salt preserve food?

Picture what happens when you sprinkle salt on a sliced cucumber; within a few minutes, the salt is dissolved in a pool of cucumber juice. Thats because water flows through food cell walls towards greater concentrations of dissolved particles, proteins, and pigments. When you rub salt on a vegetable or meat, it dissolves in the foods exterior moisture, creating a concentrated solution that draws more water from the interior to the surface.
How does salt affect the flavor of food?

In a number of ways. Salt is one of the five basic tastes that were hard-wired to detect (along with bitter, sweet, sour, and umami or savory). It enhances foods by essentially turning up the volume of their salty flavors. Salt can also dial down the taste of bitter foods by suppressing our perception of bitterness,
22
A Cooks Guide to Salt

There are two main types of salt. Rock salt is mined from the earth by digging or by pumping water into salt deposits to dissolve the salt, and then evaporating the resulting brine in vacuum chambers to recrystallize it. Sea salt is harvested from ocean water thats evaporated in open-air pans, in vacuum chambers, or by fire. Within these main categories are several subcategories of culinary salts. Here are the most common types:
Unrefined salt Usually sea salt (but sometimes rock salt), evaporated in open-air pans
and left unwashed so it retains trace minerals and other components that provide unique flavors, aromas, colors, and crystal structure. This category includes fleur de sel, gray salt, flake salt, and some flavored salts. Often used as a finishing salt at the end of cooking.
Table salt Tiny, uniform, granulated crystals of refined salt containing 95 to 99 percent
sodium chloride and usually 2 percent anticlumping agents like sodium silicoaluminate (an aluminum and silicone compound). Often used in baking recipes.
Iodized salt Table salt supplemented with potassium iodide or iodate to prevent iodine-
deficiency conditions like mental impairment and goiter. In areas where fish and sea vegetables (primary sources of iodine) are scarce, iodized salt remains the most effective method of preventing iodine-deficiency diseases. Often used like table salt.
Kosher salt Coarsely ground refined salt (sometimes including an anticlumping agent)
manufactured for kosher butchering, where its large crystals draw blood and moisture from the surface of meat. Often used for cooking because its easy to pinch and sprinkle.
Curing salt Refined salt containing added nitrite or nitrate; used to cure meats. Pickling salt Additives like anticaking agents and iodine can contribute off flavors to pickles, so some salt manufacturers sell additive-free salt as pickling salt. Pretzel salt A coarse refined salt with dry, solid grains that limit the absorption of fat
from the pretzel, which can make exposed crystals blacken during baking.
How and when should I salt my food?

Not only does salt add flavor, but it can also alter the structure of proteins, speed the cooking of vegetables, and make sauces thicken more quickly. Therefore, the answer to this question depends on what youre cooking.
sodium, making the cells dissolve more easily when heated. (Another myth buster: Its said that salting beans before cooking slows down the cooking, but its actually adding acid or sugar that slows it down, not salt.)
hydrates present in starches and flours bond sodium ions to themselves, thereby reducing our perception of sodium and aromas in the sauce. The remedy is to add a little more salt.
After cooking
When salting for seasoning only If youre adding salt solely for seasoning and not for any of the reasons mentioned above, the best time to do it is at the end of cooking. That way, the salt crystals hit your palate directly, and you get the greatest flavor impact with the least amount of salt. Also, by salting at the end of cooking, its easier to salt to taste and avoid oversalting. When using unrefined, unground salts Salts like fleur de sel, sel gris (gray salt), and flake salts like Maldon contain crystals of various sizes, so they dissolve on food and across your palate over time. Adding them after cooking results in prolonged and fuller flavor impact.
During cooking
Cooked vegetables Salting the water for boiling or blanching vegetables speeds up cooking by hastening the breakdown of hemicelluloses, substances that help hold vegetable fibers together. Because pure water draws salts and other soluble nutrients from the interior of vegetables, salting vegetable cooking water also minimizes nutrient loss. Pasta, rice, and potatoes Salting the water for boiling these starchy ingredients improves their flavor by allowing the salt to permeate the ingredients more deeply. Also, when dried pasta hits boiling water, starches on the surface of the noodles gelatinize and become sticky. Salt limits this starch gelation, so liberally salting pasta water reduces stickiness as it flavors the pasta. Starch-thickened sauces Thickening a sauce with flour or cornstarch reduces its flavor. This is because the long-chain carbo-
Before cooking Raw vegetables Salting crisp, juicy vegetables, like cucumbers or cabbage, before tossing in a salad rids them of moisture that would otherwise water down the dressing. (Myth buster: Its said that salting eggplant reduces its bitterness by releasing bitter alkaloids with the drained water. This isnt the case. The reduction in bitterness is due to salts ability to reduce our perception of bitterness on the palate.) Grilled meats Seasoning meats with salt or a salty spice rub draws out protein-rich juice that dries on the surface during cooking, creating a crisp, deeply seasoned crust. Dried beans When soaking dried beans before cooking, adding 2 tsp. salt per quart of water greatly reduces cooking time by replacing magnesium in the cell walls with
Illustration by Steven Salerno
David Joachim and Andrew Schloss are the authors of the award-winning reference book The Science of Good Food.
23
B O O K S T H AT C O O K
The Reading List

New must-reads for food lovers.
B Y K I M B E R LY Y. M A S I B AY
Banana-Chocolate Chip Kugelhopf (page 154) This moist banana cake is not too sweet, and baking it in a mold makes it look pretty, too. The same batter can also be made into cupcakes topped with scrumptious Nutella Frosting (page 150). Orange Sugar Cut-Out Cookies (page 83) Grated orange zest gives classic sugar cookies a fresh twist. The recipe makes a generous batch of dough, but it freezes well, so you can put aside half to bake another day.
Cooking O the Clock

Recipes from My Downtime
By Elizabeth Falkner (Ten Speed Press, $29.99)
With two acclaimed San Francisco Bay-area restaurants to run, chef Elizabeth Falkner lives at a frantic pace. When she does get a chance to chill out at home, she makes simple, satisfying food. Cooks who enjoy easing into the kitchen at the end of a busy day will appreciate this collection of Falkners favorite recipes, most of them unfussy updates of comforting classics, like Tomato-Centric Cobb Salad with peppery arugula, fresh tarragon, and crme frache. There is a chapter devoted to grilled pizzas and another that features starchy main courses like Spaghetti and Meatballs and Crab Pad Thai. Falkner is famous for her creative desserts, and although those recipes are more impressive than easy, theyre denitely worth the e ort.
Crab Pad Thai (page 126) Enriched with coconut milk and succulent crabmeat, this spicy, fragrant, hot-and-sour noodle dish combines the flavors of two of Falkners favorite Thai dishestom yum soup and pad thai. Cherry Tomato Confit (page 168) Plop some tomatoes, garlic, herbs, and olive oil into a baking dish, roast for about an hour, andvoil!you have an almost effortless (and deeply flavored) alternative to tomato sauce.
Susan Fenigers Street Food

Irresistibly Crispy, Creamy, Crunchy, Spicy, Sticky, Sweet Recipes
By Susan Feniger (Clarkson Potter, $27.50)
FROM O U R CONTRIBU TO R S Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough make grains the main course in Grain Mains (Rodale, $24.99). Recipes like Tomatoes Stuffed with Black Rice and Shrimp, and Tabbouleh with Chicken and Pineapple will have you looking at grains in a whole new way. In Mini Treats & HandHeld Sweets (Taunton, $22.95), expert baker and Fine Cooking contributing editor Abigail Johnson Dodge presents 100 easy-to-eat treats with stepby-step directions that make the cookies, candies, and mini tarts seem as much fun to make as they are to eat. the editors
The Seasonal Baker

Easy Recipes from My Home Kitchen to Make Year-Round
By John Barricelli (Clarkson Potter, $35)
Cooks with an appetite for adventure will love Susan Fenigers new book, in which the Los Angeles-based chef, best known from TV and her Border Grill restaurants, celebrates street food from around the globe. A passionate world traveler, Feniger lls the book with stories, snapshots, and a collection of 83 authentic yet approachable recipes that are true to their country of origin (which may mean hunting down unusual ingredients). Each is perfected for the American home cook, with helpful tips and techniques to guide the way. While theres much novelty to discover here (like Cantonese Radish Cakes and Stu ed Bitter Melon Soup), many dishes, such as Heirloom Tomatoes with Black Garlic and Basil Vinaigrette and Korean Glazed Short Ribs, are truly universal in their appeal.
Uruguay Chivito Steak and Fried Egg Sandwich (page 102) South American cheese steak! This terrific, habitforming sandwich combines the familiarseared steak, fried egg, provolone, caramelized onions with a few surprises: fresh cilantro, prosciutto, and a traditional Uruguayan condiment called Golf Salsa (ketchup, mayo, and lime juice). Ditalini Pasta with Roman Broccoli, White Beans, and Pecorino (page 137) In this classic Roman pasta dish, zesty broccoli rabe, slowly cooked in olive oil, meets creamy, comforting white beans. A squeeze of bright lemon and a sprinkle of salty pecorino bring the flavors into perfect balance.
With his new book, chef John Barricelli, owner of the beloved SoNo Baking Company in Norwalk, Connecticut, serves up sweet and savory recipes that he makes at home, often with his three children. Even beginner bakers should nd success with his Peach-Raspberry Crisp, Cranberry-Pumpkin Mu ns, and a bounty of other quick breads, crisps, and cobblers that can be whipped up in no time. (Major bonus: The mu n batters keep for days in the fridge, which means you can bake a few at a time for warm-from-the-oven mu ns whenever you want them.) Experienced bakers will delight in tackling more complex projects, such as the elegant Lemon Sou Glac (a light, creamy frozen sou ). Throughout, the recipes are written with care, with tips to help achieve excellent results.
Kimberly Y. Masibay is a Fine Cooking contributing editor.

Touch the cookbook titles to see recipe excerpts from these cookbooks on FineCooking.com
24
FINE COOKING OCT/NOV 2012
ADD DRAMA TO ANY SPACE.
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Download the VELUX Skylight Planner app at the App Store or Android Market to see the drama a skylight can bring to your space.
2012 VELUX Group
r e p e r to i r e
how to make
Risotto
When it comes to this classic Italian rice dish, theres as much comfort in the making as in the eating. b y J o a n n e W e i r
risotto is the ultimate comfort food. I realized that years ago after I arrived, feeling jet-lagged and homesick, in the Veneto region of northeast Italy. My friend Pia offered to make me a bowl of risotto with zucchini straight from her garden. I ate bite after creamy bite, feeling rejuvenated, happy, and excited to be there. After that, I learned all I could about the dish during my travels in northern Italy. Almost obsessively, I asked all the cooks I met for their secrets. Is it the variety or freshness of the rice that makes the risotto so good? Does the broth make a difference? Do you have to stir the whole time? Which is more important, technique or ingredients? I know now its a little of everything. Its taking care to use quality ingredients, having the patience to stir constantly, and following a few of the tips that Pia and other wonderful Italian cooks have taught me along the way. Now Im passing them on to you.
risotto
To avoid overcooking your risotto, taste it frequently, beginning about 15minutes after you add the first ladleful of broth. Yields 5 cups; serves 6 as a
first course
2 Tbs. olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped 3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
14 oz. (2 cups) arborio, vialone nano, or carnaroli rice 1/2 cup dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces 2 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (2 cups using a rasp grater)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Need to Know
Use the right pot A skillet is too wide, a saucepan too narrow. A heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart stainless-steel or enameled-cast-iron pot is just right. Choose a risotto rice There are several varieties, all of which are able to absorb large amounts of liquid without breaking down to mush. Arborio is the most common, but I like carnaroli and vialone nano for their firmness. Toast the rice Heating the rice with oil (shown above) until opaque in the center and translucent around the edges creates a coating that keeps the rice from absorbing too much liquid or releasing too much starch and falling apart. Add the wine first It softens the toasted rice and adds acidity and flavor. Dilute the broth If you are using store-bought chicken broth, buy the low- or no-salt variety. Whether its homemade or store bought, always dilute it with an equal amount of water. At full strength, it becomes overpowering. Dont stop stirring This prevents the rice from sticking to the sides of the pot and helps it release its starch. Let risotto stand before serving A 5-minute rest gives the butter and cheese time to melt into the liquid and bind to the rice, making for unbelievably silky risotto.
In a wide heavy-duty 5- to 6-quart pot, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, 5to 8minutes. Meanwhile, in a 3-quart saucepan, bring the broth and 3cups of water to a bare simmer over medium-low heat. Add the rice to the onion and stir with a wooden spatula until the grains are coated with oil, slightly translucent around the edges, and opaque in the center, 2to 3minutes. Add the wine, raise the heat to medium, and stir until almost evaporated, about 1minute. Using a large ladle, add about 3/4cup of the broth. Stir, mixing any rice sticking to the pots sides back into the mixture, until most of the broth is absorbed, the rice no longer seems loose when you shake the pot, and a wide trail forms when you run the spatula across the bottom of the pot. Continue to add broth in -cup increments, stirring constantly and scraping around the edge of the pot, until the rice is al dente (still a bit firm to the bite but without a hard or crunchy center) and most of the broth is absorbed, 18to 22minutes. (You may or may not use all of the broth; if you run out, use hot water.) Immediately turn off the heat. Add another cup broth and the butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and salt and pepper to taste, and stir quickly. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and let sit for 5minutes. Stir again and serve.
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Variations
Butternut Squash, Pancetta, and Sage
Add 4oz. chopped pancetta with the onions and cook as directed. Add 3 cups 1/2-inchdiced butternut squash and cook, stirring, for 5minutes. Continue with the basic risotto. Add 1Tbs. chopped fresh sage along with the butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Porcini Mushroom and Gorgonzola
Gently simmer 1/2oz. dried porcini mushrooms in 1/2cup heavy cream until softened, about 5minutes. Remove the mushrooms from the cream, coarsely chop, and return to the cream. Cover and keep warm while you make the basic risotto. At the end, instead of broth and butter, add the mushroom cream, 4oz. room-temperature Gorgonzola, and just oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Shrimp, Cherry Tomatoes, and Saffron
spots, 15to 20minutes. In a large skillet, cook 1lb. shelled and deveined large (31to 35per lb.) shrimp in 1Tbs. olive oil over mediumhigh heat until just opaque, about 2minutes. Instead of chicken broth, make the basic risotto with fish stock or bottled clam juice heated with a large pinch of saffron. Add the shrimp and tomatoes along with the butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Roasted Fennel and Lemon
cooks tip
On a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, roast 3cups cherry tomatoes tossed with 1Tbs. olive oil at 450F until soft and brown in
Remove the fronds from 1lb. fennel, chop, and set aside. Trim and cut the fennel bulb into -inch pieces. On a large heavy-duty baking sheet, toss with 2Tbs. olive oil and roast at 375F, stirring once, until tender and golden, about 30minutes. Make the basic risotto. Add the roasted fennel, fennel fronds, 1tsp. finely grated lemon zest, and 1Tbs. lemon juice along with the butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Joanne Weir is a cookbook author, cooking teacher, and Fine Cookings consulting editor at large.
Add more broth when your spatula leaves a trail through the rice. Adding broth in small amounts keeps the grains close together to create friction while stirring, which releases the starch that makes risotto creamy.
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GO SHOPPING
Great Finds
A New Leaf
Our latest buys for the kitchen and table.
B Y L AY L A S C H L A C K
Made of olive wood, these beautiful fig leaf servers feel smooth and light, making it a pleasure to serve even the simplest salad. Because theyre handcrafted, no two sets are exactly the same. Care for them gentlyhand wash, dry immediately, and wipe occasionally with bees wax or mineral oiland theyll become an heirloom. $38; amazon .com; 866-216-1072.
Top of the Pecking Order

Around this time of year, a lot of thought goes into putting the perfect turkey on the table. Why not give it some adorable, highly functional companions? The Birdrizzler oil and vinegar set designed by Carol Jacobs is made of white porcelain; both pieces have detachable heads held snugly in place by silicone rings, and small holes in the beaks allow for perfect pouring. $22.50; philamuseumstore .org; 800-329-4856.
Grate Expectations
Microplanes new bar tool does what Microplanes do best create fluffy, pith-free citrus zest. It also has a couple of bells and whistles: a bottle opener and a garnishing blade to create pretty citrus peel curls. The pocket-size stainlesssteel instrument is dishwasher safe. $19.95; williams-sonoma .com; 877-812-6235.
Flower Power
Hibiscus-based Sorel liqueur, handcrafted by Jack from Brooklyn, has warm clove, nutmeg, and cinnamon flavors, like mulled wine, but its also bright and fruity, with notes of ginger. Typically made in Caribbean homes around the holidays, hibiscus liqueur is a great substitute for crme de cassis in a kir royale and adds a new dimension to sangria. $26.99 for 750 ml; drinkupny.com; 800-658-8149.
Roast on Your Laurels

This flexible silicone wreath is as versatile as it is fun to play with. It can act as a roasting rack (its oven safe to 482F) or a trivet, and because it can be molded into just about any position, it works for pans of all sizes and shapes. If all that isnt enough, its also dishwasher safe. $24.99; prepara.com; 888-878-8665.
Cubed or Flaked
Syrup has two new rivals for adding pure maple flavor to food. Tonewood maple flakes make a pretty, crunchy topping for cakes, fresh berries, and salad. Theyll dissolve and add a mellow sweetness to cappuccino, roasted vegetables, or grilled meats. The solid maple sugar cube can be grated over just about anything. We love how the gratings melt like little snowflakes over yogurt and oatmeal. 4-oz. jar of flakes for $9.99, 7-oz. cube for $16.99; tonewoodmaple.com; 855-755-5434.
Photographs by Scott Phillips
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The flour that will
CHANGE YOUR MIND ABOUT FLOUR

If you want breads that rise higher, cakes that are moister and pie crusts that are flakier, then the brand of flour you choose definitely matters.
Start at the Heart
Only the innermost heart of the wheat berry makes it into our all-purpose flour, leaving the lightest color and richest, gluten-producing protein.
Grown in the United States
We use only wheat grown by American farmers. Meet some who are as picky as we are in our online videos.
Consistently Delicious Baking

No surprises with our flour because the quality and consistency of the protein are always just right.
Were dedicated to the

Read our blogs, start a discussion and find tested recipes on our website.
PURE JOY of BAKING!

KingArthurFlour.com
recipes, baking tips and more
the good life
Nourishing Thanksgiving Traditions

This holiday meal might seem like an unhealthy splurge, but many of its typical ingredients are better for you than you may think. B y E l l i e K r i e g e r
Cranberries have a remarkable type of antioxidant that prevents bacteria from sticking to our cells and causing disease.
chances are, eating healthfully is about the furthest thing from your mind at Thanksgiving. It is, after all, the start of a season that turns our attention toward celebrating and indulging. Its a chance to enjoy holiday dishes that connect us with our past and the loved ones around us, and of course, to simply eat for the pure pleasure of it. But you might be surprised to know that while youre doing all that delicious celebrating, youre also getting a powerful nutritional boost. A closer look at the key ingredients of the traditional Thanksgiving table reveals some remarkable health benefits. Turkey The star of the feast does more than make a glorious presentation and feed an extended family. Its a nutritional prize toojust a 3-ounce serving provides nearly half a days worth of lean protein and is packed with minerals like selenium and zinc, which are key for a strong immune system. It could be just what we need to help us through the cold and flu season. Sweet potatoes These hearty, sweet, and fragrant spuds get their deep orange color from the antioxidant beta-carotene. This form of vitamin A helps protect every cell in our bodies, but especially targets the skin, eyes, and immune system. On top of that, sweet potatoes have more potassium than a banana, so they help keep blood pressure in check, and theyre a good source of vitamin C and fiber. All in all, a pretty sweet package. Squash Beta-carotene is the orangehued star of the squash family, too, and its disease-preventing properties extend across
Good to Know
These are my top five healthy ways to use Thanksgiving leftovers, from potatoes to turkey. Sweet potato hash with eggs Saut a chopped onion in olive oil in a large skillet, add a diced red bell pepper and some diced leftover sweet potato, and cook until browned and warmed through. Serve as a bed for poached eggs. Turkey, bok choy, and almond stir-fry Heat oil in a wok or deep skillet. Add minced garlic and ginger, sliced bok choy, and leftover turkey and stir until the bok choy is tender and the turkey is warmed through. Season with soy sauce and sesame oil. Garnish with sliced almonds. Curried pumpkin or squash soup Saut a chopped onion with a little curry powder in a large saucepan. Add cooked squash or pumpkin and chicken broth. Bring to a boil, then pure. Turkey, cranberry, and Brussels sprout lettuce cups Finely chop leftover turkey, Brussels sprouts, and almonds or cashews. Toss with cranberry sauce. Fill Bibb lettuce leaves with the mixture and eat taco-style. Quinoa salad with pumpkin seeds and squash Saut a chopped onion with some ground cumin and coriander. Toss with cooked, cooled quinoa, diced leftover squash, and pumpkin seeds. Dress with an olive oil and lemon juice vinaigrette.
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Photographs: head shot by Christopher Hirsheimer; food by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
all varieties, from pumpkin to hubbard. Eating it could also make you more attractive by imparting a warm hue to your skin. Research from the University of Bristol, in England, found that people given a diet high in betacarotene were found to have more attractive skin tones than those who were suntanned. So enjoy squash throughout the holiday season; it might help keep that winter pallor from setting in. Brussels sprouts Its probably not news that Brussels sprouts are healthy, but this holiday staple offers more healing power than you may realize. Not only do they provide a sizable dose of essential nutrients like vitamin C, fiber, folate, potassium, and beta-
carotene, but they also contain powerful anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory properties. Luckily, they contribute all this goodness even if you choose to cook them with bacon. Nuts Besides providing a sumptuous crunch and nutty flavor, holiday favorites like almonds, walnuts, and pecans have hearthealthy monounsaturated and omega-3 fats, essential minerals like magnesium and zinc, and plenty of antioxidants. Cranberries These tart little wonders have antioxidants called proanthocyanidins, which act like Teflon, preventing bacteria from sticking to our cells and causing disease. Scientists think this anti-stick benefit is the main reason cranberries prevent urinary tract infections and could also work to protect the stomach and gums. In the recipe opposite, cranberries are simmered with orange juice and maple syrup to make a healthful, tasty cranberry sauce thats sure to become a holiday favorite. Serve it as part of your holiday meal and enjoy the nutritional benefits cranberries have to offer. The only thing that can enhance the effect further, for pleasure and health, is to slow down and savor every bite.
orange-maple cranberry sauce

Pure maple syrup makes all the difference here, so avoid artificially flavored syrup. Cooking the cranberries just until they burst prevents the sauce from becoming too thick. Yields about 2 cups; serves 10
1 12-oz. package fresh or frozen cranberries (about 3cups), picked over and rinsed 1 cup pure maple syrup 1 medium orange, finely grated to yield 1tsp. zest, squeezed to yield 1 / 3cup juice
Combine the cranberries, maple syrup, and orange juice in a 3-quart saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, stirring occasionally, just until the cranberries burst, about 5minutes.
Remove from the heat, stir in the zest, and let cool to room temperature, about 1hour. (The sauce will thicken as it cools. It may be made up to 3days ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.)
Registered dietitian Ellie Krieger is a Fine Cooking contributing editor. Her latest book is Comfort Food Fix.
31
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b e h i n d t h e k i tc h e n d o o r
Award-winning restaurateur Tom Douglas serves hungry dinner guests with ease from his Seattle home kitchen. b y c h a r l e s m i l l e r
as a delaware native, Tom Douglas is no stranger to fresh seafood. Having grown up in a family of 10, hes also used to cooking for a crowd. Early on, Tom and his siblings learned that dipping a chicken neck tied to a string into the Chesapeake River would yield buckets of blue crabs; dinner at the Douglas house on those nights always included a heaping platter of fresh crab cakes. Fast forward a few decades and Toms commitment to using the freshest ingredients (seafood, especially), his attention to culinary detail, and his natural ability to create welcoming spaces for dining have earned him 13 Seattle restaurants, 3 cookbooks, and 3 James Beard awards, including this years Outstanding Restaurateur in America. But creating successful restaurants isnt the only thing Tom does. He works for several local nonprofit organizations, and dinner at the Douglas home with his wife and partner, Jackie Cross, is a perennial favorite item at charity auctions. In fact, a typical weekend dinner for the couple often includes 10 guests, all gathered around the huge picnic-style table that sits just off their kitchen. I recently paid Tom a visit to find out just what it takes to entertain big.
The Entertainers Kitchen
33
When dinner is ready, I roll the island toward the refrigerator until the edge is under the pendant lights, which transforms it into a buffet for serving.
The Layout
To accommodate the large-scale entertaining style they enjoy, Tom and Jackie turned the former family room of their 1950s ranch house into a big, hard-working kitchen. The space now combines restaurant-grade appliances and fittings with custom woodwork in an open floor plan that keeps everything close at hand. The room that used to be the kitchen is now the dining room, anchored by a 10-foot-long wooden table thats just a few steps from the kitchen on one side and from a deck overlooking Puget Sound on the other. The beauty of the two adjoining spaces, explains Tom, is that we can serve in the kitchen, eat in the dining room, and then leave dirty dishes out of sight in our tucked-away dishwashing station until Im ready to clean them the next morning.
The Kitchen
The heart of the kitchen is the island, says Tom, referring to the maple-topped, baseballdiamond-shaped island thats the centerpiece of the room. Its massive but mobile, thanks to heavy-duty casters. I can chop veggies and herbs right on the maple top, so I need a cutting board only when Im prepping fish or meat. Sliding doors near the bar stools open to reveal cookware storage, and on the refrigerator side, big drawers hold pantry items. A cutout in the island top opens into a trash container for quick, easy scrap disposal. Toms known for his Pacific Northwest Asian-style cuisine, so at first, his remodeled kitchen included a 120,000 BTU wok burner. We discovered that our dog could turn the wok burner on with her tail, Tom recalls, so it had to go. A six-burner Garland stove with two ovens and a griddle provides the cooking power now, complete with knobs that are safe from wagging tails. Magnetic strips mounted on the side of the Liebherr refrigerator (right) and above the Lambert prep sinks (page 33) keep Toms knives, spatulas, graters, and spices within reach, as do custom-built hanging racks for pots, pans, and other tools. I hate searching through drawers for things, explains Tom. I put my herbs and spices in aluminum canisters with clear lids, and glue big steel washers to the bottom so they stick to the strips. Open-air Metro Super Erecta shelving units at the dishwashing station and next to the stove complete the everything-in-sight philosophy.
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Photographs and floor plan drawing by Charles Miller
The focal point of the dining room is the picnicstyle table that Tom, Jackie, and Jackies father built. Made from East African bubinga wood, it weighs 1,000 lb. and easily seats 10.
The Dining Room

When we travel, were always on the lookout for plates, platters, and other dining room gear, says Tom, who designed the custombuilt hutch (left). It holds stacks of dishes and racks of wine glasses, adding color and interest to the room and encouraging travel stories during dinner parties. Below the stemware, a row of pickets allows platters to stand on edge so they can be easily seen and appreciated, and just as easily pulled into duty. The other large piece in the room is the marble-topped sideboard (above). Heavyduty, full-extension drawer slides make each deep drawer fully accessible, and weve packed it full of flatware, linens, and tchotchkes from around the world, says Tom.
When the meal is over, we send willing (read, our favorite) guests to the dishwashing station (aka, the hole) for rinse-andscrape duty. The deep stainless-steel sink and T & S Brass pull-down faucet help move things along, but I especially love our AutoChlor SpaceSaver dishwasher because it cleans in 90 seconds and dries in 20.
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Toms Must-Have Tools and Serveware

Heres the inside scoop on the cooking tools and tabletop items Tom uses most, and why.
If ever there was a specialty kitchen tool, a cherry stoner is it. But if you need to pit a big bowl of fresh cherries or olives, as I often do, youll thank the cooking powers that be that you have one. Norpro Deluxe Cherry Stoner, $19.98, biggestlittlekitchenstore .com, 209-223-0264.
I love the organic feel of these bamboo plates when Im serving fresh fish; they seem so natural. Totally Bamboo 12-inch square plate, $28.85, wayfair.com, 877929-3247.
We collect platters from all over the world during our travels, but sometimes its the things you pick up closer to home that mean the most. About 10 years ago on the day before Thanksgiving, I broke my favorite turkey platter; this fish platter was a last-minute solution, but its been a good memory and keepsake ever since. Poisson Pasta Oval Platter, $79.95, williams-sonoma .com, 877-812-6235.
Hear Tom narrate a tour of his kitchen.
I prefer multifunction timers that can keep track of two or three things at once; theyre a big help when Im juggling cooking times for several dishes with a hungry crowd in the house. Oxo Triple Timer, $19.99, oxo.com, 800-545-4411. A mandoline makes lots of prep jobslike thinly slicing potatoes, cucumbers, or radishesa whole lot quicker. Make sure you get one with a blade guard. The Original Borner Mandoline V Slicer, $34.95, knifemerchant.com, 800-714-8226.
Charles Miller is a freelance photojournalist and former Fine Homebuilding editor who lives in northern California.
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Using every trick in her book, barbecue champion Lee Ann Whippen makes the best turkey youll ever have.
My family barbecues. Always has. My dad grew up on a hog farm in Missouri, so hes been cooking and eating barbecue since he was little. For the past 16 years, he and I have competed together on the national barbecue circuit. My mom helps out at my restaurant, Wood Chicks BBQ, in Virginia, and my oldest daughter is a certified barbecue competition judge. Its just what we do.
Ive barbecued (aka hardwood-smoked) just about every food you can imagine, but I can clearly remember the first time I barbecued a whole turkey. I had some friends over for a cookout, and everyone was enthralled by the process. Allow me to explain: To get tons of flavor into this otherwise mild-tasting bird, I use a number of techniques that come from my competition cooking. First, I brine the turkey to season it inside and out. The brine is a mixture of apple cider, brown sugar, honey, salt, spices, and cider vinegar; the vinegar, an unusual addition to a brine, tenderizes the meat and adds a delicious tart flavor that balances the sugar and salt. Then, I use my dads award-winning barbecue spice rub to season the turkeys cavities. I mix more of the spice rub into softened butter for spreading under the turkeys skin to add sweet, spicy, and savory notes to the meat. Then the skin gets an oil and honey massage, which helps it brown, before a final rubdown with more of the spice mixture.
The part that always gets people excited comes next: wrapping the entire bird in bacon and smoking it. The bacon not only flavors the turkey but also protects the skin from drying
Turkey BBQ
out and becoming leathery on the grill. My favorite woods for smoking poultry (or pork) are apple and hickorythe fruitiness of the apple paired with the slightly stronger hickory smoke really elevates mildly flavored meats. By smoking the bird over a roasting pan, I can collect all of the flavorful drippings and combine them with a homemade turkey broth to make a knockout gravy. As the bird finishes cooking, I spray it with apple juice every half hour or so. This is a trick I always use when I competeit adds more flavor to the bird, keeps it moist, and flavors the pan drippings, too. The smoked turkey comes out juicy and flavor-packed, with beautifully burnished skin. Its a bird fit for a Thanksgiving table, to be sure, but its so good you may be tempted to follow my lead and make it for nonholiday parties, too.
38
bacon-wrapped smoked turkey

This recipe calls for many ingredients and some planning, but the finished turkeys rich, smoky flavor and juicy meat is more than worth it. To get a head start, you can combine the spice rub ingredients up to 1 month ahead, and make the broth for the gravy and brine the bird up to 2 days ahead. Serves 12 to 15
For the brine 8 cups apple cider 1 lb. kosher salt (1cups if using Mortons; 2cups if using Diamond Crystal) 1 cup apple cider vinegar For the gravy 1 oz. (6 Tbs.) unbleached all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp. cider vinegar, or to taste Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper MAKE THE BRINE SMOKE THE TURKEY
13/4 cups packed dark brown sugar cup honey tsp. ground cloves 5 dried bay leaves 1 12- to 14-lb. turkey (preferably fresh, and not kosher or self-basting; neck and giblets, excluding liver, reserved for the broth)
Combine all of the brine ingredients and 8cups of water in an 8-quart pot; bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate until cold.
BRINE THE TURKEY
For the broth cup vegetable oil Kosher salt 2 medium carrots, cut into 2-inch chunks 2 medium celery stalks, cut into 2-inch chunks 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and quartered 1 dried bay leaf
Put the turkey breast side down in a pot or tub large enough to hold it and the brine. Add the brine (the turkey will float, but thats OK) and refrigerate for at least 6hours and up to 20hours. (The turkey can be removed from the brine, patted dry, and refrigerated for up to 1day, covered with plastic wrap.)
MAKE THE BROTH
tsp. black peppercorns For the barbecue spice rub 1/4 cup granulated sugar 2 Tbs. chili powder 1 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar
2 tsp. smoked paprika (pimentn) 1 tsp. kosher salt 3/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1/2 tsp. cayenne 1/2 tsp. garlic powder 1/2 tsp. onion powder 1/2 tsp. dry mustard 1 / 8 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 / 8 tsp. ground coriander 1 / 8 tsp. ground cumin For the turkey 5 Tbs. vegetable oil 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and quartered 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened, plus 2 oz. (4Tbs.), cut into 4 slices
With a chefs knife, cut the turkey neck into 3or 4pieces and chop the giblets. Heat the oil in a 4-quart pot over medium-high heat. Cook the neck and giblets with a pinch of salt, stirring often, until browned, about 8minutes. Add the carrots, celery, onion, bay leaf, peppercorns, 2tsp. salt, and 6cups of water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, skim off any foam, and simmer, covered, until flavorful, about 1 hour. Strain the broth through a fine sieve into a large bowlyoull have about 4cups. (The broth can be made up to 2days ahead; refrigerate when cool.)
MAKE THE spice RUB
In a small bowl, mix all of the rub ingredients, breaking up any clumps of brown sugar with your fingers. (The rub can be made up to 1month ahead; keep in an airtight container.)
PREPARE THE GRILL
About 2 lb. thick-cut bacon, preferably applewood smoked, at room temperature 2 cups hardwood chips, preferably a combination of apple and hickory, soaked in water for at least 30minutes and drained 1 cup apple juice, in a spray bottle
40
Food styling by Ronne Day
1/4 cup honey
Light a charcoal or gas grill fire and set it up for indirect cooking over low heat (275F): If using a charcoal grill, bank the lit and ashedover coals to one side of the grill. Cover the grill and adjust the vents as needed to reach 275F. If using a gas grill, cover the grill, turn off one or more of the burners, and adjust the active burner(s) to reach 275F.
Rinse and dry the turkey; discard the brine. Rub the inside of the body and neck cavities with 2Tbs. of the vegetable oil, and then sprinkle each cavity with 1/2Tbs. of the spice rub. Put the onion pieces inside the body cavity. In a small bowl, combine the 4 oz. softened butter with 1Tbs. of the spice rub. Carefully slide your hands under the skin of the turkey to loosen it from the breast. Using your fingers, spread the butter mixture directly on the breast meat, being careful not to tear the skin. Tie the legs together with twine. Tuck the wing tips behind the neck, securing any loose skin over the neck cavity beneath them. Rub the outside of the turkey with the remaining 3Tbs. vegetable oil, then the honey, and then 3Tbs. of the spice rub 1 . Put a flat wire rack inside an 11x14-inch (or similar) foil-lined roasting pan. Line the rack with enough bacon slices (touching but not overlapping) to cover the area the turkey will occupy. Put the turkey breast side up on the bacon and then lay enough bacon slices across the top of turkey to cover it, securing the slices with toothpicks 2 . (Its OK if the sides of the turkey arent entirely covered.) For a charcoal grill, sprinkle 1/2cup of the drained wood chips over the coals. Replace the grill grate. For a gas grill, make 2heavy-duty aluminum foil packets, each filled with 1cup of the drained chips. Using a fork, poke holes all over the packets. Lifting the grill grate, set one of the packets directly over an active burner; reserve the second packet. Replace the grill grate. Put the turkey in its pan on the unlit side of the grill and cover the grill. Smoke the turkey until the bacon is dark, rotating the pan occasionally for even cooking, 2to 3hours 3 . If using a charcoal grill, add 1/2cup of drained chips to the coals every 30minutes until youve used all of the chips. When the temperature dips to 250F, every 1to 11/2hours, light 3 quarts of charcoal in a chimney set over bricks. When the coals are ashed over, transfer the turkey in its pan to a heatproof surface, lift the grill grate, and add the fresh coals to maintain the temperature. If the temperature gets too high, leave the lid ajar to let in cool air. For a gas grill, add the reserved packet of chips when the first packet stops smoking. When the bacon is dark, remove it from the top of the turkey; enjoy as a cooks treat or discard. Generously season the turkey with all but 1tsp. (which will be used for the gravy) of the remaining spice rub. Put the butter slices
Lee Anns Tricks for Layering on the Flavor
1
This brined turkey is all dressed up: Theres barbecue spice rub inside both cavities, onion in the body cavity, seasoned butter underneath its skin, and honey and vegetable oil all over its exterior. Seasoning the skin with more spice rub completes the flavor prep.
2
The turkey smokes on a bacon-lined rack set in a roasting pan. Covering the bird with more bacon protects the skin from drying out while smoking. Use toothpicks to hold the ends in place, and dont worry if the bacon doesnt cover every inch of the sides.
3
When the bacon is dark and crisp, remove it from the top of the turkey. Then season the turkey with more spice rub and dot the breast with slices of butter, which will baste the bird and flavor the skin and the drippings in the pan.
4
Baste the turkey by spraying it with apple juice. This keeps the skin from drying out, and the sugar in the juice caramelizes on the skin for deep flavor and beautiful color.
on top of the breast and thighs and continue smoking, spraying the turkey with the apple juice 4 and rotating the pan every 30minutes, until the temperature in the center of the breast registers 165F, about 2 hours more. If at any time the turkey becomes too dark, loosely tent it with foil. Remove the pan from the grill. Tilt the turkey so the juice in the cavity runs into the roasting pan. Transfer the turkey to a serving platter or cutting board and loosely tent it with foil. Let the turkey rest for at least 30minutes.
MAKE THE GRAVY
Heat the turkey broth until hot. Pour the drippings from the roasting pan into a fat separator or heatproof measuring cup. Allow the fat to rise to the top and then transfer cup of the fat to a 12-inch skillet; discard the remaining fat and reserve the rest of the drippings. Season the turkey broth with enough of the drippings to add flavor without making it too salty. Heat the fat in the skillet over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, for 2minutes. Add the remaining 1tsp. spice rub and cook, whisking, 1minute more. Gradu-
ally whisk the broth into the skillet until smooth, and then bring to a simmer. Whisk in the cider vinegar and simmer until the gravy barely coats the back of a spoon, about 5minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Carve the turkey and serve with the gravy. Lee Ann Whippen is an award-winning barbecue pitmaster, grilling expert, and chef/partner of Chicago Q restaurant.
Watch a video of Lee Anns grilling technique
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From classic to creative, 20 tasty vegetable dishes for your fall table.
RECIPES BY JULISSA ROBERTS
SOME COOKS GO CRAZY for spring produce, while others pine all year for summers bounty. But lets not forget about fall, a time of plenty when markets are overowing with delicious vegetables. Whether you like to cook those vegetables in traditional ways or are looking for slightly unusual side dish recipes to add to your repertoire, weve got you covered. Here, we have wonderful versions of familiar favorites mashed potatoes, roasted carrots, sauted green beans, and steamed Brussels sproutseach with a special twist or technique that makes it sing. The buttery mashed potatoes on page 44, for example, contain a secret ingredient: eggs. Mixing them into the hot potatoes as you mash makes the potatoes both luxurious and light. For those of you looking to cook outside the box, we went to our creative contributing editors and asked them for their best side dishes featuring these four vegetables. Read on for their delicious ideasand have fun picking sides.
the editors
Maple-Roasted Carrots
Fluffy Mashed Potatoes
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FIne CookInG oCT/noV 2012
Green Beans with Almonds and Garlic
Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta and Pearl Onions
More ways with potatoes

Potato and Red Pepper Hash Steam cubed red potatoes until
tender. Saut sliced onions and chopped red bell pepper in olive oil until soft and caramelized. Stir in chopped garlic and fresh thyme; transfer to a bowl. Heat more oil in the skillet, add the potatoes, and saut until browned. Return the onions and peppers to the skillet, season with salt and pepper, and toss. Sprinkle with grated Gruyre just before serving. Abigail Johnson Dodge
Potato-Cheese Galette Toss thinly sliced Yukon Gold potatoes

with olive oil, salt, and chopped fresh sage. Slightly overlap some of the potatoes in a single layer in a pie plate. Lightly top with finely grated Parmigiano, Gruyre, or aged Gouda. Arrange two more layers of potatoes and cheese on top of the first, drizzle with olive oil, and bake in a medium-hot oven until golden-brown and tender. Cut into wedges and serve. Susie Middleton
fluffy mashed potatoes

The airy texture of these mashed potatoes comes from the unusual addition of eggs, which are beaten into the potatoes just before the butter and cream are incorporated. The eggs bind and coat the potatoes, resulting in a light yet silky mouth-feel. The hot potatoes and cream cook the eggs enough to render them food-safe. Yields about 8 cups; serves 8 to 10
4 lb. medium russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup heavy cream 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 8pieces 2 large eggs
Broccoli Twice-Baked Potatoes Halve baked russet potatoes and scoop out the insides; mash with finely chopped cooked broccoli, sour cream, butter, salt, and pepper. Mound back into the potato halves, top with grated sharp Cheddar, and run under the broiler until the cheese melts. Maryellen Driscoll Crispy Rosemary-Parmesan Potato Wedges (below) Slice russet potatoes lengthwise into 8 wedges. Boil in salted water until just barely tender; drain and cool slightly. On a plate, combine panko with minced fresh rosemary, grated ParmigianoReggiano, salt, and pepper. Brush the potato wedges with olive oil and press them into the panko mixture until coated on the cut sides. Bake in a hot oven, flipping halfway through, until crisp and golden. Melissa Denchak
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper Thinly sliced chives, for garnish
Put the potatoes in a 6- to 7-quart pot and cover with cold water by at least 1inch. Add 1 Tbs. salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a steady simmer, partially cover the pot, and cook until the potatoes are very tender when pierced with a fork, 10to 12minutes. Meanwhile, in a 1-quart saucepan, heat the heavy cream and butter over medium heat, stirring once or twice, until hot and the butter is melted. Turn off the heat, cover, and keep warm. Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot. Mash with a potato masher until almost smooth. Add the eggs and beat them into the potatoes with a wooden spoon. Add the cream mixture and continue to mix with the spoon until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (You can make the potatoes to this point up to 2hours ahead; keep warm in the pot on the back of the stove. Gently reheat over low heat, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.) Transfer to a serving bowl, garnish with the chives, and serve.
green beans with almonds and garlic

Green beans amandinebeans tossed with toasted almonds and a lemon-butter sauceis a classic. But this riff has much richer almond flavor because the beans are sauted in the butter mixture in which the nuts were toasted. Using thin haricots verts makes the dish even more special; regular green beans are fine, too, but theyll take longer to blanch. Serves 6 to 8
11/2 lb. haricots verts (thin French green beans) or green beans, trimmed 1 oz. (2 Tbs.) unsalted butter 2 Tbs. pure olive oil 1 tsp. minced or pressed garlic (1 medium clove) 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice (from 1 small lemon)
cup slivered almonds
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a 6- to 7-quart pot of water to a boil. Add the beans and cook until bright green and barely crisptender, about 2minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water until completely cool. Spread the beans on a clean kitchen towel and dry thoroughly. (The beans can be blanched up to 1day ahead; refrigerate wrapped in paper towels in a plastic bag.) In a 12-inch skillet, heat the butter and oil over medium-low heat until the butter melts and the foam subsides. Add the almonds and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown all over, about 3minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the almonds to a plate. Reduce the heat to low and add the garlic to the skillet. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30seconds. Add the beans, increase the heat to medium, and cook, tossing occasionally, until crisp-tender and lightly browned in some places, 5to 8minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving platter, sprinkle with the almonds, and serve.
More ways with green beans

Toss trimmed green beans, cubed sweet potatoes, sliced red onion, and sliced garlic with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Roast until the potatoes and beans are tender. Toss with orange zest, lemon juice, and honey. Serve warm or at room temperature. Kimberly Y. Masibay
Roasted Green Bean and Sweet Potato Salad (above)
Braised Green Beans with Garlic and Lemon Saut trimmed
green beans in olive oil with smashed garlic cloves until the garlic is lightly browned. Add a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes and cook briefly to let the flavors meld. Add a splash of chicken broth and finely grated lemon zest, cover the pan, and simmer until the beans are tender. Sprinkle with lemon juice, finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and chopped fresh parsley. Tony Rosenfeld
Roasted Green Beans with Cranberries, Walnuts, and Blue Cheese Toss trimmed green beans with olive oil, salt, and pepper and roast in a hot oven until tender. Toss with fresh orange juice and zest, dried cranberries, chopped, toasted walnuts, and crumbled blue cheese. Melissa Denchak
Green Beans with Tomatoes and Olives Cook trimmed green beans in boiling salted water until crisp-tender. Chill in an ice bath and drain. In a large skillet, saut halved cherry tomatoes in olive oil with a pinch each of crushed red pepper flakes and salt until the tomatoes are juicy. Stir in chopped, pitted Nioise olives, chopped fresh parsley, and the beans. Toss until warmed through. Allison Ehri Kreitler
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maple-roasted carrots
These sweet, tender carrots, which are both glazed and roasted for extra flavor, earned the nickname carrot candy in our test kitchen. The bourbon is optional but recommended, as it adds great flavor to the dish. If you cant find baby carrots with the tops attached, use small carrots that are about 1/2inch in diameter at the stem end. Serves 6 to 8
3 lb. baby carrots, preferably with green tops, peeled and trimmed, leaving inch of tops attached
1 / 3 cup pure maple syrup cup pure olive oil 3 Tbs. good-quality bourbon, such as Makers Mark (optional)
1 / 8 tsp. cayenne Kosher salt
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat the oven to 425F. Spread the carrots in a single layer on a large heavyduty rimmed baking sheet. In a measuring cup, combine the maple syrup, oil, and bourbon (if using). Drizzle the syrup mixture over the carrots and sprinkle with the cayenne and 2tsp. salt. Using your hands or tongs, toss the carrots to coat evenly. Roast the carrots, undisturbed, for 15 minutes. Toss and continue to roast until tender when pierced with a fork, about 20minutes. (You can roast the carrots up to 1hour ahead; keep them at room temperature on the roasting pan. Reheat in the oven, or serve them at room temperature.) Transfer to a platter and serve.
More ways with carrots

Slow-Sauted Carrots and Parsnips (above) Cook diced
carrots and parsnips with sprigs of fresh thyme or rosemary in olive oil in a covered skillet over low heat, adding diced onion after about 15 minutes. Uncover and cook until tender. Add minced garlic and thinly sliced kale and stir until wilted. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and pure maple syrup. Susie Middleton
Roasted Carrots with Orange-Mint Gremolata Drizzle
carrot chunks with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast in a hot oven until tender and browned. Sprinkle with a gremolata made with finely chopped fresh parsley and mint, orange zest, and minced shallot. Molly Stevens
Carrot Salad with Lime-Cilantro Dressing In a food proces-
Sauted Carrots with Pecans and Bacon Cook bacon in a
skillet until crisp; crumble when cool. Add thinly sliced onions to the bacon fat and cook until soft. Add minced garlic, chopped fresh thyme, salt, and sliced carrots. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender. Stir in white wine vinegar and chopped toasted pecans. Top with the bacon. Melissa Denchak
sor, chop a large clove of garlic and a peeled knob of fresh ginger. Add fresh cilantro leaves, lime zest and juice, and extra-virgin olive oil; process into a medium-thick pure. Season with salt and cayenne; toss with grated carrots and thinly sliced scallions. Sprinkle with coarsely ground toasted coriander seeds. Allison Ehri Kreitler
More ways with brussels sprouts

Brussels Sprout Chips Cut the stem end off each sprout and
separate the leaves. Toss with olive oil, salt, and a little garlic powder and arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake in a medium-hot oven until crisp. Ellie Krieger
Ginger-Maple Roasted Brussels Sprouts Toss halved, trimmed Brussels sprouts with olive oil and salt. Roast cut side down in a hot oven until tender and browned. Toss with melted butter, minced fresh ginger, and pure maple syrup. Return to the oven for a few minutes to meld the flavors. Maryellen Driscoll Brussels Sprout Leaves with Apple, Pecans, and Cheddar
Cut the stem end off each sprout and separate the leaves. Saut in butter with chopped fresh sage, apple matchsticks, and a sprinkle of salt until the leaves are wilted and tender. Stir in a splash of cider vinegar, toasted pecans, and coarsely grated sharp Cheddar. Tony Rosenfeld
brussels sprouts with pancetta and pearl onions

Pan-steaming is a great way to cook Brussels sprouts. Browning the sprouts first deepens their flavor, and adding wine to the skillet creates aromatic steam to cook them through (without making the dish taste boozy). Serves 6 to 8
11/4 lb. fresh red or white pearl onions (or thawed frozen pearl onions), root ends trimmed 4 oz. thick-sliced pancetta, cut into 1/4x2-inch matchsticks 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 4 slices 1 tsp. sherry vinegar; more to taste
slice crosswise, discarding the ends. Saut in butter until crisp-tender. Toss with a little olive oil, fresh lemon juice, finely chopped shallot, chopped toasted hazelnuts, salt, and pepper. Abigail Johnson Dodge
Warm Brussels Sprout Slaw with Lemon and Hazelnuts (below) Halve Brussels sprouts lengthwise and then thinly
21/2 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthwise 1/4 cup dry white wine Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Julissa Roberts is Fine Cookings assistant food editor. When shes not cooking up the classics for her large family gatherings, she enjoys creating unusual dishes like sweet potato tamales with red chile sauce.
If using fresh pearl onions, bring a 3-quart pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the onions and cook for 1minute to loosen their skins; drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water until cool to the touch. Pinch each onion at its stem end to make it slip out of its skin. If it doesnt, use a paring knife to remove the skin. (You can prepare the onions to this point up to 1 day ahead; refrigerate in an airtight container.) Cook the pancetta in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until crisp, about 5minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a plate. Add the Brussels sprouts to the skillet and cook, undisturbed, until lightly browned on one side, about 2minutes. Flip and cook, undisturbed, until lightly browned on the second side, about 2minutes more. Add the butter, wine, and onions. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sprouts and onions are tender when pierced with a fork and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 15minutes. Stir in the sherry vinegar and pancetta and season to taste with salt, pepper, and additional vinegar. Transfer to a platter and serve.
Apple Picking
With so many apple varieties, choosing can be a challenge. Heres how to suit the fruit to the recipe. b y G r e g P at e n t
to enjoy a fresh apple in season, all I have to do is walk out to my Montana backyard and pick one. We have two varieties on our property: the widely known McIntosh and the more obscure Roxbury Russet. Both are delicious eaten out of hand. And though the dull-green, pock-marked Russet is far less pretty (one reason you dont find this heirloom apple at the supermarket), I love them equally. When I want to make applesauce, however, the Mac is my favorite. Its tender flesh softens beautifully during cooking, and its tart flavor shines through. But dont feel bad for the Russet; its denser texture holds up during cooking, which makes it my pick for apple crisp. Its easy for me to choose between two apple varieties that I know well, but beyond my backyard, there are more than 7,000 varieties of apples. While your local market or farmstand wont have anywhere near that many, you can often be faced with a dozen or more types, some of them unfamiliar. How to choose?
Consider the apples flavor and the flavors in the recipe. When it comes to apples for
snacking, the choice is subjective; you like what you like. But when cooking with apples, you need to be more objective, taking into consideration the other flavors of the dish, for example, and whether they would benefit from an apple that is sweet or tart.
Determine an apples texture and how heat affects it. Some apples break down easily
during cooking, while others retain their shape. For a pured soup, I would choose the former. But in my apple upside-down cake, Im looking for the apple slices to stay handsomely intact and for their slight firmness to add a little contrast to my tender cake. Then there are some recipes that work best with
a mix of textures, such as apple pie, where you might want some of the apples to keep their shape for textural and visual appeal and some to break down to give the filling body. It would be nice if you could tell how an apple will behave in a recipe just by taking a bite out of it, but thats not the case. To help you make your selection at the market or farmstand, refer to the sidebar opposite, where I divide some commonly found apples as well as some lesser-known ones into three categories: apples best enjoyed raw, apples that hold their shape when cooked, and apples that soften easily. When faced with an unfamiliar variety, look for clues about the apple in the descriptions often found near the apple display. For instance, if the only description is good for snacking, you might want to try a differ-
APPLES BEST ENJOYED RAW
R AW
Whether due to a lack of flavor when cooked or an unpleasant texture, there are some clunkers when it comes to cooking with apples. These are best eaten out of hand or used in raw preparations, like the salad on page50. Fuji, Cortland, and Gala dont brown quickly when cut and are especially good choices.
ent apple in your fruit crisp. If there is no information, ask the seller about the apple and then note how it behaves in your dish for future reference.
Test unknown varieties before cooking with them. Once home, you can test an apples
SWEET Fuji, Gala, Red Delicious TART AND TANGY Cortland
APPLES THAT HOLD THEIR SHAPE

Apples that soften but keep their shape when cooked or baked are a good choice for the apple upside-down cake on page52, where you want to see the gorgeous individual slices. Theyre also perfect in pies and tarts, for German pancakes, and on the savory side, added to stuffings and roasted or braised dishes. And theyre the choice for whole baked apples.
FIRM
cooked texture before using it in a recipe by sauting a few slices in butter over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes to see how its flavor holds up and whether the slices stay intact. The recipes on the following pages feature a single style of apple in order to showcase the virtues of each. If youd like to use a different variety of apple than the ones recommended hereperhaps you also have an apple tree in your yardjust be sure it shares attributes similar to those of the apple I suggest and your dish will turn out as well as mine. And who knows? Depending on the apple you picked, it might even be better.
SWEET Braeburn, Cameo, Golden Delicious, Honeycrisp, Jazz, Jonagold,

Mutsu, Opalescent, Piata, Pink Lady, Spigold Greening, Rome, Roxbury Russet, Sierra Beauty, York Imperial
TART AND TANGY Baldwin, Granny Smith, Idared, Northern Spy, Rhode Island
APPLES THAT SOFTEN EASILY
SOFT
Some apples surrender texture when cooked, making them especially good for applesauce and pured soups like the one on page51. A few added to a pie, tart, or turnover along with firm apples will give the dessert additional body.
SWEET Coxs Orange Pippin, Pomme Grise, Sunrise TART AND TANGY Empire, Jonathan, Lady Apple, Lodi, Macoun, McIntosh
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apple and escarole salad with blue cheese and hazelnuts

R AW
Salads are the ideal place to showcase apple varieties that are best enjoyed raw. Here, piquant blue cheese, toasty nuts, and slightly bitter escarole are delicious counterpoints to sweet, juicy apples. Though you could use peeled apples, I like how their skin makes them pop visually. Serves 6
1 lb. (about 2 large) sweet apples best enjoyed raw (see p.49), quartered, cored, and sliced into thin wedges 1 lb. escarole, torn or cut into bite-size pieces (about 6cups) 3 oz. blue cheese, crumbled (about cup) small red onion, very thinly sliced lengthwise (about cup) cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 Tbs. apple cider vinegar 1 Tbs. minced shallot 1 tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 oz. whole shelled hazelnuts (about cup), toasted and skinned (see Test Kitchen, p. 85)
In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallot, mustard, and tsp. each salt and pepper. Whisk in the oil in a slow and steady stream until incorporated. Put the nuts in a zip-top bag, force out the air, seal the bag, and break the nuts with a meat pounder or a heavy skillet into uneven pieces. In a large bowl, toss the apples with 1Tbs. of the dressing. Add the escarole, cheese, onion, parsley, and hazelnuts. Toss with the remaining dressing and serve.
See a slideshow of more sweet and savory apple recipes at FineCooking.com.
curried parsnip and apple soup

SOFT
Apples that soften easily when cooked make a velvety pured soup. Curry powder and fresh ginger give the soup a flavor boost, while the chive and apple garnish adds a fresh layer of brightness, calling out the apple flavor. Yields about 10 cups; serves 8
Stir in the ginger, tomato paste, garlic, and curry powder and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the vermouth and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has almost evaporated, 2to 3minutes. Add the chopped apple, parsnips, and potatoes and stir to coat well. Add the chicken broth and 1tsp. salt and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium low, partially cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the apples and vegetables are very tender, about 30minutes. In a blender, pure the soup in batches until completely smooth. Transfer the soup to a clean 4-quart saucepan, stir in the cream, and season to taste with salt and white pepper. Bring the soup to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often. Cut the reserved apple quarter into small dice. Serve the soup sprinkled with the diced apple and chives.
MAKE AHEAD
1 lb. (about 3 medium) tart apples that soften easily when cooked (see p. 49) 1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 2 large leeks (white and light-green parts only), chopped and well rinsed (about 1cups) 1 medium yellow onion, chopped (about 1cup) 1 Tbs. minced fresh ginger 1 Tbs. tomato paste 2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (2 medium cloves) 1 tsp. mild curry powder cup dry white vermouth, such as Noilly Prat 2 large parsnips (9oz. total), peeled, quartered lengthwise, cored, and chopped (about 2cups) 1 medium (6oz.) Yukon Gold potato, peeled and chopped into -inch pieces (about 1cup) 4 cups lower-salt chicken broth Kosher salt cup heavy cream Freshly ground white pepper 3 Tbs. thinly sliced chives
The soup can be made 2days ahead and kept covered and refrigerated. Reheat it gently and garnish just before serving.
Cut 1 quarter from one of the apples. Wrap the unpeeled quarter in plastic wrap and reserve. Peel, core, and quarter the rest of the apples. Chop the peeled apples into -inch pieces and toss with the lemon juice in a medium bowl. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-duty 4-quart saucepan over mediumlow heat. Add the leeks and onion and cook, covered, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until just tender, 6to 8minutes.
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apple upside-down cake

FIRM
The flower pattern thats revealed once this cake is inverted will be defined best by an apple that holds its shape. A sweet variety will complement the nutty brown butter in which the apples are cooked. Serve the cake on its own or with vanilla ice cream. Serves 8 to 10
In a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet, cook the butter over medium heat until it has a nutty fragrance and there are brown bits on the bottom of the skillet, about 4 minutes. Immediately add the apples and salt and toss gently with a heatproof spatula until well coated. Cook, uncovered, for 5minutes, tossing once. Toss again, cover, and cook, tossing every 2to 3minutes, until the apples are tender, 6to 8minutes. Uncover and cook, stirring gently, until some of the apples begin to brown and any liquid has evaporated, about 2minutes more. Set aside until cool enough to handle.
MAKE THE TOPPING
slightly overlapping, tightly packed concentric circles 1 , 2 . Set aside.

MAKE THE CAKE
FOR THE APPLES 2 lb. (about 4 large) sweet apples that hold their shape when cooked (see p. 49), peeled, quartered, and cored, each quarter sliced into 3 wedges 1 large lemon, finely grated to yield 1 Tbs. zest (reserve for the cake) and squeezed to yield 1 Tbs. juice 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces Pinch table salt FOR THE TOPPING Unsalted butter, softened, for the pan 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tsp. ground cinnamon FOR THE CAKE 4 oz. (1 cup) unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tsp. baking powder tsp. ground cardamom tsp. table salt 3 oz. (6 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into -inch cubes and slightly softened cup granulated sugar 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 1 large egg 2 large egg yolks cup whole milk PREPARE THE APPLES
In a large bowl, toss the apples with the lemon juice.
Butter a 9x2-inch round cake pan, line the bottom with parchment, and butter the parchment. Have ready a pastry brush and a small bowl of water. Put the sugar, cinnamon, and cup water in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Stop stirring and, using the pastry brush dipped in the water, wash any sugar crystals from the side of the pan. Continue to cook, without stirring, until the caramel begins to color; then swirl the pan until the caramel turns an even, deep amber, about 3minutes. Immediately pour the caramel into the prepared cake pan, swirling to evenly coat the bottom. Let cool. Starting in the center of the pan, arrange the cooled apple slices on the caramel in
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 350F. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, cardamom, and salt. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 1minute. Scrape the bowl and beater with a rubber spatula. Add cup of the sugar, the reserved lemon zest, and vanilla and beat on mediumhigh speed until well combined, about 1minute. Scrape the bowl and beater. With the mixer on medium speed, slowly sprinkle in the remaining cup sugar, taking 20to 30seconds to add it. Increase the speed to medium high and beat until pale and creamy, 3to 4minutes, stopping once to scrape the bowl and beater. Add the egg and beat on medium speed until combined, about 1minute. Add the yolks and beat until incorporated, 1minute. (Its OK if the batter looks curdled.) With the mixer on low speed, alternately add the dry ingredients in three additions and the milk in two additions; scrape the bowl and beater as necessary and mix each addition just until smooth. Using the rubber spatula, spread the batter evenly over the apples. Tap the pan down on the counter once or twice to settle the batter. Bake until the cake springs back when gently pressed and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 40to 45minutes. Transfer the cake to a rack and run a small, sharp knife around the edge to release it from the pan. Cool the cake in the pan for 20minutes. Holding the pan between your palms, rotate it briskly back and forth on the countertop to release the apples from the bottom. Invert the cake onto a cake plate and slowly remove the pan and the parchment. If any apples have shifted, reposition them. Let the cake cool for at least 1hour before serving.
MAKE AHEAD
The cake can be baked up to a 1day ahead and kept covered at room temperature. Greg Patent is the author, along with his wife, Dorothy, of A Is for Apple. In 2003, he won a James Beard Award for his cookbook Baking in America, and his A Bakers Odyssey was a Beard nominee in 2008.
1
To arrange the apples in a flower pattern, begin in the center and put the prettier side of each apple slice face down, because thats the side youll see.
2
The side of the pan guides the placement of the final circle. Make sure one end of each apple slice touches the pan as you overlap the slices.
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Chicken Cacciatore
A traditional recipe, plus a chefs creative spin.
BY MELISSA PELLEGRINO AND SHEA GALLANTE
Fair Game
Cacciatore, or alla cacciatora, means hunters style, since this dish is traditionally made in Italy with wild game like rabbit, boar, or pheasant. In this country, its typically made with chicken.
Divide and Conquer

The classic recipe starts with a whole chickenits cut into eight pieces and then seared in hot olive oil.
Simmer Down
Once browned, the chicken slowly cooks in a tomato sauce that includes red wine, yellow onion, and herbs. Its a simple combination that yields deep flavor.
Parsley, Sage, Rosemary, and Bay

Fresh herbs lend complexity to this rustic dish. Theyre thrown in whole to infuse the sauce and removed before serving.
the classic Fine Cooking contributing editor Melissa Pellegrino is the co-author of two cookbooks, The Italian Farmers Table and The Southern Italian Farmers Table. Her classic recipe features bone-in chicken pieces braised in tomatoes, wine, a little onion, and lots of fresh herbs.
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fine Cooking oCT/nov 2012
C L A S S I C /C L A S S I C U P DAT E
Think Thin
Instead of bone-in chicken, boneless chicken breasts star in this recipe. Theyre pounded and coated with a mixture of panko breadcrumbs, Parmigiano, and fresh parsley.
Small Fry
Theres no braising here: This chicken is pan-fried until golden and crisp.
Whole Grain
The classics key ingredients tomatoes, wine, onion, and herbsturn up in a warm farro salad. It gets richness from Parmigiano-Reggiano and butter, plus a bright hit of balsamic vinegar.
Seeing Red
Modern interpretations of chicken cacciatore often include additional vegetables, like mushrooms or red bell peppers. In a nod to that style, roasted red pepper is added to the farro salad and pured into a creamy aoli that finishes the dish.
t h e u p d at e Shea Gallante, the chef at New York Citys Ciano, is known for his modern Italian cuisine. Here, he reimagines the classic dish as a pan-fried chicken cutlet served with a warm, vegetable-studded farro salad and creamy red pepper aoli.
Photographs by Scott Phillips f i n e C o o k i n g .C o m
55
the classic
chicken cutlets with cacciatore farro salad and red pepper aoli
Hearty chicken and farro are balanced here by bright, fresh arugula, while the creamy aoli ties the dish together.
Serves 6
FOR THE AOLI 3 large red bell peppers 2 Tbs. olive oil; more for the peppers 1 medium clove garlic, peeled
1 / 3 cup mayonnaise Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1
When cutting up the chicken, dont remove the wings from the breasts. Instead, cut the breasts in half with the wings still attached, which gives you two meaty serving pieces.
2
After an initial sear, the chicken is braised in tomatoes, wine, and herbs. A gentle simmer allows the meat to cook through while the flavors of the sauce develop.
FOR THE FARRO SALAD Kosher salt 12 oz. (2 cups) pearled farro 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed 1 medium red onion, cut into small dice 2 medium ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped 2 medium celery stalks, cut into small dice 5 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio
classic chicken cacciatore

In Italy, starchy dishes like polenta and pasta are typically served on their own as a first course, but if youre being nontraditional, either would make a great accompaniment to this dish. Serves 4
1 4-lb. chicken Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, cut into small dice 4 fresh sage leaves 2 3-inch sprigs fresh rosemary 2 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 bay leaves, preferably fresh 1 28-oz. can whole plum tomatoes, finely chopped, juice reserved
11/2 oz. (3Tbs.) unsalted butter 1/2 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/2cup using a rasp grater); more as needed 2 Tbs. fresh oregano leaves, chopped 11/2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar Freshly ground black pepper
cup dry red wine
Cut the chicken into 8 serving pieces: With a boning knife or chefs knife, cut each leg off the chicken above the thigh bone. Then separate each leg into drumstick and thigh following the line of fat on the underside. With kitchen shears, cut out the back bone and discard. With a chefs knife, cut through the breastbone so you have 2breast halves with the wing attached. Cut across each breast to separate it into 2 pieces 1 . Pat the chicken dry and season generously with salt and pepper. Heat 2Tbs. of the oil in an 11- to 12-inch straight-sided saut pan over medium-high heat until
shimmering hot. Working in 2 batches, cook the chicken until golden-brown, 3to 4minutes per side. (Reduce the heat to medium for the second batch if the brown bits sticking to the pan get too dark.) Transfer the chicken to a plate. Pour off all but a thin layer of fat from the pan. Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 1Tbs. oil. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spatula, until the onion is tender and lightly browned, about 5minutes. Add the red wine, raise the heat to medium high, and boil until the wine is reduced by half, 3to 5minutes. Tie the herbs together in a bouquet garni and add to the pan along with the tomatoes and their juice. Return the chicken pieces to the pan, turn to coat them in the sauce, and gently simmer, uncovered, turning the chicken occasionally, until just cooked through, 25to 30minutes 2 . Using tongs, transfer the chicken to plates or a serving platter. Remove the herbs and season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the chicken, and serve.
1
When blending the aoli ingredients, be sure to process until the mixture is very smooththe finished sauce shouldnt contain stray red pepper bits. This might take a couple of minutes.
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t h e u p d at e
FOR THE CHICKEN 5 oz. (11/2cups) rice flour or cornstarch 3 large eggs, beaten 3 cups panko
smooth 1 . Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.
Make the farro salad
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1/4 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1/4cup using a rasp grater) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 6-oz. boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, tenders removed 5 to 8 Tbs. canola oil 3 oz. baby arugula (about 3cups lightly packed) 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
Make the aoli
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 500F. Halve and seed the bell peppers and rub them with oil. Set them cut side down on a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet and roast until just tender, about 20minutes. Transfer the peppers to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap to steam, 10minutes. Pull off and discard the skins. Reserve 4 pepper halves for the farro salad. Coarsely chop the remaining 2 pepper halves and put in a blender with the mayonnaise, olive oil, garlic, and 2Tbs. water. Pure until very
Fill a 4-quart saucepan three-quarters full with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in 2Tbs. salt and the farro. Cook until tender, 15to 18minutes. Drain the farro and spread it on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2Tbs. of the oil and toss to prevent it from sticking. Cut the reserved roasted peppers into small dice. In an 11-inch straight-sided saut pan, heat the remaining 2Tbs. oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until translucent, about 5minutes. Add the tomatoes, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5minutes more. Add the wine and simmer vigorously until reduced by half, about 12minutes. Stir in the farro, butter, cheese, oregano, balsamic, and roasted peppers 2 . Season to taste with salt and pepper and more Parmigiano-Reggiano. Remove from the heat, cover, and keep warm.
Cook the chicken
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 200F. Put the rice flour in a shallow bowl. Lightly beat the eggs in a second shallow bowl. In a third, combine the panko with the parsley,
Parmigiano-Reggiano, 2tsp. salt, and 1tsp. pepper. Butterfly the chicken breasts: Slice the thick part of each breast horizontally almost in half so you can open it like a book 3 . Using a meat mallet, pound each chicken breast between 2 sheets of plastic wrap to an even thickness. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Dredge each piece of chicken in the flour, shaking off the excess, then in the egg, letting the excess drip off, and then in the panko mixture to coat well. Transfer to a plate. Heat 3 Tbs. of the canola oil in a heavy-duty 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering hota few crumbs dropped in the oil should sizzle immediately. Cook 2 of the chicken breasts, flipping once with tongs, until golden-brown and just cooked through 4 , 8to 10minutes total. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain briefly, then to a rimmed baking sheet; keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining chicken in 2 batches, cleaning the pan and adding more oil as necessary. In a medium bowl, toss the arugula with the lemon juice and a pinch of salt, then toss with the olive oil and season with pepper to taste. Transfer the chicken breasts to a cutting board and cut them into thirds. Serve with the farro, aoli, and arugula.
2
Farro, an Italian grain, is combined with cooked vegetables, wine, and other ingredients to make a warm grain salad. Look for farro at supermarkets, specialty markets, or online.
3
To butterfly the chicken, use a boning knife or chefs knife to cut horizontally through the thicker side of the breast, stopping about 1/2inch from the other side.
4
Its important to cook the chicken in batches so you dont crowd the pan. For the best browning, be sure the oil is very hot before you add the chicken.
Photographs by Miki Duisterhof
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Inexpensive, nonstick, and practically indestructible, a cast-iron skillet rocks at almost any type of cooking. B y J o a n n A p r u e s s
my favorite pan to cook in, by far and with no close runnerup, is my 35-year-old cast-iron skillet. It was my mothers pan, and just seeing it on the stove conjures memories of her fried chicken, her macaroni and cheese, and her pot roast. But its not just sentimentality that makes this the most-used pan in my kitchen. Its practicality, too: There is simply no other pan that holds heat as well. Other benefits of cast iron include a low price tag, a nonstick surface, and almost total indestructibility. Doubtful about that last one? Hop online to a cast-iron forum and youll find collectors and fanatics talking about pans they use that date back a hundred years or more. Cast irons heft is what makes it perform so well. Cast iron doesnt conduct heat well; its slow to heat up and cool down, and until fully heated, will have hot spots. But its weight and thickness compared with other metal pans means that once its heated, it retains that heat, making it the top choice for all kinds of cooking methods. As youll see on the following pages, a hot cast-iron skillet sears steaks beautifully, giving them a thick, browned crust. Yet it can also gently simmer lamb shanks at a constant low temperature to coax the most tender results from a braise. Its also a fabulous choice for frying and baking, as demonstrated by crisp fried coconut shrimp and a puffy baked pear pancake. Seasoning creates a nonstick surface. One reason folks are so fond of their old cast-iron skillets is the patinaknown as seasoningthat builds up in the pan with use. As oil seeps into the surface of the pan, it eliminates any microscopic roughness on the metal that can cause food to cling, creating a virtually nonstick surface. Nowadays, a new cast-iron pan will likely come preseasoned from the factory; both Lodge, the largest maker of cast-iron cookware in the United States, and Camp Chef sell them that way. Yet even a preseasoned pan will continue to improve with use.
Caring for cast iron is easier than you think.
Heavy Metal
Its all about keeping that seasoning intact. There are basically three steps: washing, drying, and coating with oil. Because detergents can degrade the seasoning, I simply wash my skillet out with hot water and a sponge or a natural- or nylon-bristle brushnever a scouring pad and never, ever in the dishwasher. If food sticks, a soak in hot water usually does the trick. Drying the skillet completely is important to keep it from rusting; I like to put the clean pan in a warm oven or on a low burner for a thorough drying. Then, while the pan is still warm, I apply a very light coating of oil before storing it in a dry place (at my house, the pan stays right on the stove because its used so much) with the lid off, or at least askew, to avoid trapping any residual moisture. If your skillet does lose its nonstick coating (which can occur if, say, someone trying to be helpful scrubs the pan with steel wool, as my husband once did), reseasoning is a simple, mostly hands-off process. All you have to do is wipe the inside with a light coating of oil or shortening and bake the pan upside down (put a piece of heavy-duty foil on the rack below the pan to catch any excess oil) in a 400F oven for an hour. Turn off the oven and leave the skillet in the oven until cool. A cast-iron skillet does have one unavoidable drawback: Its heavy. But as I lift it, often with two hands, I know its that weight that makes my pan so great. Hoisting the skillet didnt bother my mother, and it doesnt bother me, especially once Im sitting down to a juicy steak thats been seared to perfection in my favorite pan.
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searing frying
baking braising
black-pepper-crusted beef tenderloin with chimichurri sauce

A tangy condiment made with fresh herbs and garlic, chimichurri sauce is a traditional accompaniment to grilled meats in Argentina and pairs well with peppery steak. Before cooking the steaks, you can use the weight of your skillet to crush the whole peppercorns for the coating. Serves 4
FOR THE CHIMICHURRI SAUCE 11/2 o z. mixed fresh cilantro and flat-leaf parsley leaves (1 cup packed) 1 Tbs. fresh oregano or 1 tsp. dried 1 Tbs. chopped garlic 1 Tbs. red wine vinegar 1 tsp. fresh lime juice; more to taste make the sauce FOR THE STEAKS 2 Tbs. black peppercorns, coarsely crushed 4 6- to 7-oz. beef tenderloin steaks, about 11/2 inches thick 1 Tbs. olive oil Kosher or coarse salt
1 / 3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Kosher salt
Combine the cilantro, parsley, oregano, and garlic in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Scrape the mixture into a bowl and stir in the olive oil, vinegar, lime juice, red pepper flakes, and 1/2tsp. salt.
cook the steak
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350F. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until very hot, about 2 minutes. Add the oil, swirling the pan to coat the bottom; then add the steaks and cook, undisturbed, until nicely browned on the bottom, about 4minutes. Flip and cook, undisturbed, until nicely browned on the other side, about 4minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until an instant-read thermometer registers 120 to 125F for rare, 130 to 135F for medium rare, or 140 to 145F for medium, 2to 7minutes. Let the steaks rest on a plate, loosely covered with foil, for 5 minutes. Serve the steaks topped with the chimichurri sauce.
In a flat dish or shallow bowl, combine the crushed peppercorns with 2tsp. salt. Firmly press both sides of the steaks into the mixture so theyre well coated. Set aside to come to room temperature, at least 20minutes and up to 45 minutes.
Searing and Sauting

Nonstick pans release foods well, but because theyre not supposed to be used over high heat, they cant brown foods deeply. Regular metal pans can be used over high heat to brown well, but foods can easily stick. A cast-iron skillet, however, can be used over high heat to brown foods beautifully, and if well seasoned, its also nonstick. If youre sear-roasting, as in the recipe here, cast iron is a great choice because it can be transferred directly to a hot oven.
german pear pancake

This light and airy German-style pancake is traditionally made with apples, but Bosc pears are a delicious variation. Puffy right out of the oven, the pancake will deflate a bit by the time you slice it. Serves 4 to 6
1 large firm-ripe Bosc pear, peeled, cored, and cut into 1 / 8-inch-thick slices 1 large lemon, finely grated to yield 1/2Tbs. zest, squeezed to yield 2Tbs. juice 4 large eggs
3/4 cup whole milk cup granulated sugar 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract 3 oz. (2 / 3 cup) all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 1 oz. (3 Tbs.) unsalted butter, cut into 3slices 3 to 4 Tbs. confectioners sugar, for garnish Crme frache (optional)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400F.
In a medium bowl, toss the pear slices with the lemon juice and set aside. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with an electric hand mixer on high speed until thick and frothy, about 3minutes. Add the milk, granulated sugar, vanilla, salt, and lemon zest and mix on low speed until combined. Sift in the flour and mix on low speed until combined (dont worry if there are lumps). Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat until hot, about 2 minutes. Add the butter, and when it begins to foam, add the pear slices, quickly turning them to coat with the butter, and arranging them in a single layer. Pour the batter evenly over the pears and transfer the skillet to the oven. Bake until the pancake is set in the middle, the sides
have risen, and the bottom is nicely browned, about 20minutes. Sprinkle the pancake with the confectioners sugar. Serve immediately with a dollop of crme frache, if using.
Baking
Thick, heavy cast-iron skillets distribute heat evenly to produce a well-browned, nicely textured crust on baked goods. (In a comparative tasting of this pancake recipe in the Fine Cooking test kitchen, the one baked in cast iron had a crust clearly superior to the one baked in stainless steel.) A cast-iron skillet is also just the thing for cornbread, and theres nothing more homey than serving it directly from the pan.
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southwestern lamb shanks

Cranberries and chipotle chiles in adobo sauce impart a tangy-sweet and smoky flavor to these succulent braised lamb shanks. Like most braised meats, the shanks improve with reheating. Serves 4
1 Tbs. canola oil 4 lamb shanks, 14 to 16 oz. each, blotted dry Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup finely chopped yellow onion 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
3/4 cup full-bodied red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot 8 oz. (2 cups) fresh or frozen cranberries 1 cup lower-salt beef broth 3 Tbs. minced canned chipotles in adobo 2 tsp. ground cumin 1 / 3 cup honey
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus 1Tbs. for garnish
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325F. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over mediumhigh heat until very hot, about 2minutes. Add the oil, swirling the pan to coat the bottom; then add the lamb shanks and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until browned on all sides, 10to 12minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and transfer the shanks to a plate. Season generously with salt and pepper. Cook the onion in the skillet over medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until softened, 2to 3minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30seconds. Stir in the wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet, and bring the mixture to a boil.
Stir in the cranberries, broth, honey, chipotles, and cumin and cook until the cranberries begin to pop, about 5minutes. Arrange the shanks in the skillet, cover tightly with an ovenproof domed lid or heavy-duty aluminum foil, and put the skillet on a rimmed baking sheet (to make it easier to transfer without spilling). Transfer to the oven and cook, turning the lamb shanks 2 or 3 times during cooking, until they are fork tender, 2to 21/2hours. Transfer the shanks to a medium bowl and cover to keep warm. Skim any fat from the sauce in the skillet and boil over high heat until the liquid lightly coats the back of a spoon, about 8minutes. (You can make the shanks to this point up to 3 days ahead. Transfer to a container to coolstoring them in the skillet can give them a metallic flavor and can degrade the pans seasoning. Cover and refrigerate. When ready to serve, slowly reheat, covered, in the cast-iron skillet in the oven.) Stir in the 1/4cup cilantro and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return the shanks to the skillet, briefly turning them in the sauce, and serve sprinkled with the remaining 1 Tbs. cilantro.
Braising
The secret to braisinglow and slow cooking in a little liquidis to maintain a gentle, even simmer. A cast-iron skillet keeps the temperature steady even when the heat is low, and its size works well for smaller cuts of meat, such as short ribs and the lamb shanks here.
See a slideshow of more great castiron-skillet recipes at FineCooking.com
beer-battered coconut shrimp with rmoulade sauce

A shot of hot sauce in the batter counters the sweetness of the shrimp, which get a double dose of crunch from a coating of shredded coconut and panko. Serves 4 as an appetizer
For the rmoulade sauce 1/2 cup mayonnaise 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 Tbs. minced celery 2 Tbs. minced shallot 1 Tbs. finely chopped capers 1 Tbs. whole-grain mustard 1 small orange, finely grated to yield 1 tsp. zest, squeezed to yield 11/2tsp. juice 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Freshly ground black pepper to taste For the shrimp About 41/2 cups peanut or canola oil 21/4 oz. (1/2 cup) all-purpose flour 1 Tbs. granulated sugar 1 Tbs. Cajun seasoning
Kosher salt 1/2 cup pale lager beer, such as Corona 2 Tbs. Franks RedHot Original cayenne pepper sauce or other hot sauce
1/2 cup panko 1/2 cup unsweetened shredded coconut 12 colossal (13 to 15 per lb.) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails intact Make the rmoulade sauce
In a small bowl, combine all of the sauce ingredients and set aside.
coat and fry the shrimp
Clip a deep fat/candy thermometer to the side of a 12-inch cast-iron skillet and add enough oil to measure 3/4inch deep. Heat to 360F over medium heat. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, Cajun seasoning, and 1/2tsp. salt; then slowly whisk in the beer and hot sauce to make a smooth batter. In a shallow bowl, combine the panko and shredded coconut. Holding a shrimp by its tail, dip it into the batter, letting any excess drip off, then dredge it in the panko mixture, pressing and rolling it several times to coat well. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining shrimp. Fry the shrimp in the hot oil, turning once with tongs, until golden-brown, about 2minutes. If necessary, adjust the heat to maintain
Frying
the oil at 360F. Transfer the shrimp with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain briefly. Serve the shrimp with the rmoulade sauce. Joanna Pruess, a food and travel writer, is the author of 10 cookbooks, including Griswold and WagnerWare Cast-Iron Cookbook.
For crispy fried foods, cast iron cant be beat because it holds a fairly constant temperature even when food is added to the oil in the pan. As a result, the foods exterior is quickly sealed and the interior absorbs less oil. The skillets large surface area allows you to cook a lot of small things, like the coconut shrimp here, in one batch without overcrowding.
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Stirring the ChowderPot

With three types of clam chowderManhattan, New England, and Rhode Islandin a contentious rivalry, we take the stance that theyre all good. B Y A L L I S O N E H R I K R E I T L E R
ive been somewhat of a clam-addict since childhood, when I would dig for them on Puget Sound with my grandfather. I like them steamed, grilled, stu ed and baked, or slurped raw, but my favorite way to enjoy them is in a steamy bowl of chowder. A soup dened by its heartiness, chowder is laden with chunks of potatoes and studded with bacon or salt pork and onions. From that base three very di erent styles of clam chowder have emerged, and connoisseurs from Rhode Island, the rest of New England, and Manhattan have been arguing over which is best for nearly a century.
Chowder probably evolved as a way to make two fishing boat staplessalt pork and hardtack (a flat, rigid cracker made of only flour and water)more palatable by adding fresh fish and water. Since fresh water was precious aboard ships, the original dish was most likely a very thick stew rather than a soup. The Boston Evening Post published the first written chowder recipe in 1751, a layered fish dish with onions, salt pork, pepper, salt, spices, herbs, hardtack, red wine, and water. Clams made occasional appearances in chowder recipes during the first half of the 19th century and gained popularity in the latter half. Around that time, bacon began to be substituted for salt pork, and hardtack was phased out in favor of potatoes. It was a few decades later that the various regional incarnations began to take shape.
A Brief History of Chowder
Each chowder has a different character

New Englandstyle chowder is the thick, creamy version that most people know. During the dark, cold days of winter, I look to this rich soup for comfort. Tomato-based Manhattan chowder has an acidic tang to balance the sweet, salty clams. Rhode Islandstyle chowder is the least common but, in my opinion, the purest. Its a thinner soup in which the clam broth contributes most of the avor and the tender clam meat adds texture. But as long as chowder is made with plump, seawater-fresh clams and served with crispy crackers alongside a Caesar salad (and maybe a Bloody Mary), Ill happily eat any of the three.
Let the clam flavor shine through

Over the years, Ive picked up a few secrets for making a good clam chowder, regardless of variety. Its key to start with fresh live clams and plenty of them. The trick to ensuring that they dont get rubbery is to steam them in the shell and pluck them from the heat the instant they open, so theyre not one second overcooked. This method also eliminates the need for shucking and creates a delicate, briny broth that becomes the backbone of the soup. Onions, bacon, and Yukon Gold potatoeswhich hold their shape and rmness while also releasing some starch to thicken the brothadd complexity and texture without overshadowing the clams. Try the recipes that follow and I bet youll love all three as much as I do. Lets put an end to this rivalry once and for all.
The recipes here call for cherrystones, which are medium-size hard-shell clams, but traditionally, chowder uses quahogs, which are larger. Since the two types are often very close in size, I use whichever is fresher at the market, and I always purchase clams from a store with high turnover. Since theyre alive, theyll eventually open up in search of more food and lose their precious seawater, so look for closed shells that are not broken. Clams should be packed in a mesh bag or an unsealed plastic bag. Steam them as soon as possible after buying them.
Find the Freshest Clams
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Chowders from top: New England, Rhode Island, and Manhattan.
clam broth
Use this broth as a base for the three chowder recipes that follow. The amount youll get depends on how much liquid is in the clams. After straining the broth, youll need to dilute it with water to get a fresh, not-too-salty taste. Yields 6to
10cups diluted broth and 1to 2cups meat
8 lb. large cherrystone clams (about 20)
Wash the clams one at a time under running water, scrubbing off any sand with your fingers, a scouring pad, or a brush 1 . If a clam is slightly open and doesnt close when tapped on a hard surface, discard it. Try to pry open any clam that feels very heavy. If its full of sand, discard it. Put 2 cups of water in a heavy-duty 6- to 7-quart pot or Dutch oven, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the clams and
cook, covered, for 5minutes (if the liquid threatens to boil over, set the lid ajar and reduce the heat slightly). Remove the lid, stir, and as the clams pop open completely, transfer them with tongs to a large bowl 2 . (Re-cover the pot if necessary until the clams start opening regularly.) Discard any clams that have not opened after 20minutes. If a shell is a little cracked but still pops open, the clam is fine to use. When cool enough to handle, remove each clam from its shell over the bowl, leaving
the adductor muscles on either side of the clam attached to the shell 3 . Squeeze each clam gently over the bowl to capture as much of the broth as possible and then transfer the meat to a small bowl and discard the shells. Strain the broth from the bowl and the pot through a fine sieve lined with a double layer of paper towels set over a medium bowl or large measuring cup. Close and press the paper towels to release more broth 4 . Dilute the broth with water (3to 5cups) until it is pleasantly briny, not overly salty. The meat and broth can be refrigerated separately for up to 1 day before using. Extra broth can be frozen and saved for another use (see Test Kitchen, p.85, for ideas).
1
Scrubbing the clams not only gets the sand off, its also an opportunity to inspect them one by one. Usually, there will be one or two dudsdead clams with open shells that dont close when tappedthat are unsafe to eat.
2
Overcooked clams are rubbery, so remove each one from the pot as soon as it opens. Most will cook in 15 minutes or less. Any that dont open in 20minutes might be full of mud or have been dead for a while; discard them.
3
When you remove the clam from the shell, youll notice smooth, pale pink kidney-shaped parts on either side. Those are the adductor muscles, which close the clamshell. Theyre edible but quite tough and best left behind.
4
There will inevitably be some sediment in the broth after the clams open they did live in sand, after all. But you dont want to waste any broth, so dont forget to squeeze out the paper towels after straining.
Creamy, hearty New England clam chowder is by far the most popular. Chowder made with milk or cream began appearing in the early 1800s, and New Englanders claimed it as their own in the 1900s. More recently, it has become common for chefs to use a flour and butter roux to thicken the soup. The roux is necessary if youre cooking with milk; otherwise, it curdles when boiled. I have a slightly different method: I pure some of the ingredients. This, combined with adding cream, creates a thick soup without flour. You can crush some of the potatoes against the side of the pot (instead of pureing the vegetables) for a thinner but equally delicious version.
Comfort in a Bowl
new england clam chowder

The traditional way to serve this soup is with Common Crackers, a buttery take on hardtack. I like mine with a crinkly packet or two of oyster crackers, which are similar and served at clam shacks around New England. Yields about 9 cups; serves 8
3 oz. thick-cut bacon (2 to 3 slices), cut crosswise into -inch strips 1 oz. unsalted butter (3 Tbs.) 1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice (about 2cups)
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup heavy cream 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Kosher salt
4 tender inner celery stalks, cut into -inch dice (about 1cup) 4 cups diluted clam broth, plus the reserved clam meat, finely chopped (see recipe, opposite) 2 lb. large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into -inch dice (about 4cups) 2 bay leaves
Cook the bacon in a wide heavy-duty 4- to 5-quart pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to turn crisp and golden, about 4minutes. Remove from the heat. Pour off and discard the bacon fat, leaving the bacon in the pot. Add the butter and onion and cook over low heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until the onion
is softened but not colored, about 8minutes. Add the celery and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until just softened, about 5minutes. Add the clam broth, potatoes, bay leaves, thyme, and 1tsp. pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, partially covered, until the potatoes are tender, 10to 12minutes. Discard the bay leaves. Pure 1cup of the soup solids with just enough liquid to cover in a food processor or blender, and add it back to the soup. Add the cream and bring to a boil. Remove the soup from the heat, wait until it stops simmering (this may take a minute if youre using a Dutch oven), and stir in the clams and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
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Manhattan clam chowder contains tomatoes, an addition likely influenced by the tomato-based fish and clam soups of Mediterranean fishing communities. In 1894, the chef of Delmonicos steakhouse in New York published a cookbook with a recipe for a tomatobased clam chowder, which is probably what grounded it in Manhattan; at various points in chowder history it was found in Boston and Rhode Island. In the 20th century, the soup began to offend New England chowder purists; In 1939, Maine introduced legislation to prohibit the use of tomatoes in clam chowder. James Beard is quoted as saying, that rather horrendous soup called Manhattan clam chowder resembles a vegetable soup that accidentally had some clams dumped into it. My opinion is that the tomatoes really complement the smoky bacon and salty clams, and the lack of milk or cream makes it lighter than its New England counterpart.
Y ou Say Tomato
manhattan clam chowder

This chowder starts with clam broth, as do the others, but its the only one to use tomatoes, oregano, and crushed red pepper flakesevidence of its Mediterranean heritage. Crusty bread is the perfect accompaniment. Yields about 9 cups; serves 8
2 oz. thick-cut bacon (about 1slices), cut crosswise into -inch strips 3 Tbs. olive oil 1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice (about 2 cups) 4 tender inner celery stalks with some leaves, sliced crosswise inch thick (about 1 cup) 1 generous Tbs. finely chopped garlic (from about 3 large cloves) 5 cups diluted clam broth, plus the reserved clam meat, finely chopped (see recipe on p. 66) 2 medium carrots, quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into -inch pieces (about 1cup) 1 28-oz. can whole peeled plum tomatoes, drained, juice reserved, tomatoes cut into -inch dice 1 lb. large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into -inch dice (about 2 cups) 2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano 2 bay leaves Freshly ground black pepper tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Put the bacon in a wide heavy-duty 4- to 5-quart pot or Dutch oven and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to turn crisp and golden, about 5minutes. Remove from the heat. Pour off
and discard all of the bacon fat, leaving the bacon in the pot. Add the olive oil and onion and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to soften, about 5minutes. Its fine if it colors a bit. Add the celery and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, about 7minutes more. Add the clam broth, carrots, tomatoes, tomato juice, potatoes, oregano, bay leaves, tsp. black pepper, and the red pepper flakes. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the potatoes and carrots are tender, about 15minutes. Remove the soup from the heat, wait until it stops simmering (this may take a minute if youre using a Dutch oven), and stir in the clams and chopped parsley. Discard the bay leaves and season to taste with additional black pepper, if desired.
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This thin, clear-broth chowder is the least common but also the closest to the earliest types of chowder. Theres surprisingly little speculation or written history about this soups origins and when it branched off from its more popular cousins. Even in Rhode Island, its often served alongside the more familiar New England and sometimes Manhattan chowders. Still, in my opinion, it really captures the essence of clam chowder, containing neither dairy nor tomatoes to mask the fresh sea flavors.
A Clear Original
rhode island clam chowder

Be sure to cut the vegetables small and use thin-sliced bacon for this chowder so that you get a little of everything in each spoonful. Yields about 10cups; serves 8 to 10
2 oz. thin-sliced bacon (2 to 3 slices), cut crosswise into -inch strips 1 oz. unsalted butter (3 Tbs.) 1 large yellow onion, cut into small dice (about 2cups) 4 tender inner celery stalks, sliced crosswise inch thick (about 1cup) 1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic (2 large cloves) 6 cups diluted clam broth, plus the reserved clam meat, finely chopped (see recipe on p. 66) 1 lb. large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into -inch dice (about 3cups) 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme 2 bay leaves Freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Put the bacon in a wide heavy-duty 4- to 5-quart pot or Dutch oven and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to turn crisp and golden, about 4minutes. Remove from the heat. Pour off and discard the bacon fat, leaving the bacon in the pot. Add the butter and onion and cook over low heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until the onion is sweet and tender, about 10minutes. The onion shouldnt color. Add the celery and garlic and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until all the vegetables
are tender, 5to 7minutes more. Add the clam broth, potatoes, thyme, bay leaves, and tsp. pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15minutes. Remove the soup from the heat, wait until it stops simmering (this may take a minute if youre using a Dutch oven), and stir in the clams and chopped parsley. Season to taste with black pepper, if desired. Allison Ehri Kreitler is a Fine Cooking contributing editor who still likes to dig for clams.
See a slideshow of more chowder recipes at FineCooking.com
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Master bread baker Peter Reinhart shares his secrets for making soft, chewy pretzels at home.
do the twist
I grew up in Philadelphia, the American

epicenter of pretzels. Its been said that Philadelphians eat 12 times more soft pretzels than the national averagewe eat them as snacks or for a light lunch, always with a squeeze of yellow mustard on top. But when I asked my two German-born baking instructor colleagues at Johnson & Wales University if thats how theyre eaten in Bavaria, the European pretzel epicenter, I was surprised by their answer: Pretzels are everywhere in Germany, not just in Bavaria. Every region has its own special variation, and pretzels are eaten for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. But we put mustard on the sausages and wursts that we eat with the pretzels, never on the pretzels themselves. Thats an American thing! Born in Germany, pretzels travel to America
There are many pretzel creation myths, but I tend to believe the story that pretzels originated as a treat baked by seventh-century German monks for their students. European monasteries used them as food, of course, but also as a symbolic gift for traveling pilgrims, because the pretzels shape, reminiscent of folded arms in prayer, signified the Holy Trinity. Later, in Switzerland, pretzels were used in wedding ceremonies to represent tying the knot. And so, in this manner, they spread across Europe. As the story goes, sometime around 1858, a drifter passing through Pennsylvania Dutch country gave a pretzel recipe to a local baker in gratitude for a meal; the baker gave the recipe to his apprentice, William Sturgis, who later opened his own bakery, Sturgis Pretzel House, in Lititz, Pennsylvania. Pretty soon, pretzels swept into nearby Philadelphia, becoming a city-wide craze. These days, soft pretzels are everywhere, from malls and sports arenas to airports and street carts. I hear the term Bavarian pretzel a lot, too, and people often ask me for an authentic recipe. But based on my research and conversations with my German colleagues, I contend that there is no definitive recipe for Bavarian pretzels. There are great pretzels in Bavaria and all across Germany, of course, but there is no template. There are only common denominators, including sugar-free dough and a dip in a lye solution before baking.
Dip for a dark, flavorful crust

The secret to a truly great pretzel is a dip in a weak solution of water and lye, an alkali that affects the surface starch so the pretzels can develop a deep, glossy-brown crust in the oven. The alkali is neutralized during baking, making the pretzel safe to eat. (Turn to page75 for more information on lye.) If youd rather not work with lye, you can use baking soda instead. But baking soda is a much milder alkali, and the crust it produces (below right) will not be nearly as dark or crusty as one made with lye (below left). If using baking soda, youll also need to brush the pretzels with beaten egg or they may bake up streaky. After dipping, the pretzels sit at room temperature to thaw and proof. Then theyre sprinkled with coarse salta little goes a long wayand baked to mahogany-brown perfection (or dark golden-brown perfection, if dipped in baking soda). Either way, theyre sure to wow your friends and family, whether you serve them with yellow mustard or not.
A few tweaks for home bakers

The following recipe is my own version, created especially for home bakers. Its based on Bavarian-style pretzels, called laugenbrezel (lye bread) in German, and starts with a simple, soft, yeasted dough. The dough comes together quickly and can be made in a stand mixer or by hand. In a departure from unsweetened Bavarian-style recipes, I add a touch of brown sugar to the dough because I like the depth of flavor it gives the pretzels. After the first rise, I roll the dough into long ropes and twist them into the traditional pretzel shape. Instead of using flour to prevent the dough from sticking, I use a little vegetable oil; adding more flour at this point only makes the pretzels tough. The next stepfreezing the pretzelsis unusual, but it makes all the difference for two reasons: It slows down the fermentation process, which gives the pretzels better flavor, and it helps them hold their shape during the following step, a soak in a lye bath.
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Roll each piece of dough into a rope about 30inches long and 1 / 3to 1/2inch thick.
Arrange a rope into a large U-shape with the curve toward you.
bavarian-style soft pretzels

A few key ingredients and tools will help you make excellent pretzels at home. Foodgrade lye microbeads are essential for a flavorful, mahogany-brown crust (you can also use baking soda, but the results wont be the same). Pretzel salt is a bright white compressed salt that adheres well to the unbaked dough; kosher or coarse sea salt is a good substitution. And an oil mister comes in handy because it releases less oil than a can of cooking spray does. Whichever you use, mist only as necessary to prevent the dough from sticking or drying out; too much will make the pretzels greasy. See Where to Buy It for mail-order sources. Yields six 6- to 7-inch pretzels
1 tsp. active dry yeast 19 o z. (41/2 cups) unbleached bread flour; more as needed 2 Tbs. packed light brown sugar 1 Tbs. vegetable oil O il mister filled with vegetable oil (see Test Kitchen, p. 85) or cooking spray 1 T bs. food-grade lye microbeads (see sidebar on p. 75 for information on working with lye), or 3Tbs. baking soda 1 l arge egg, lightly beaten (only if using baking soda instead of lye) 1 Tbs. pretzel or coarse salt MAKE THE DOUGH
2 tsp. kosher salt
In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook (or in a large mixing bowl with a whisk), combine the yeast and 1cups lukewarm (90F to 95F) water and let stand until dissolved, about 5 minutes. (The mixture should smell yeasty. If it doesnt, start over with a fresh batch of active dry yeast.) Add the flour, sugar, oil, and salt. Mix on low speed (or with a wooden spoon) until the ingredients are hydrated and form a coarse ball of dough, 2to 3minutes. Add more water as needed, 1tsp. at a time, if all of the flour is not incorporated into the dough. Increase the speed to medium low and mix (or transfer the dough to a work surface misted with oil and knead by hand) until the
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Cross one end over the other, leaving a 3-inch overhang.
Pull the twisted section down over the bottom curve of the U so the ends overhang by about 1/4 inch.
Then twist the ends, shortening the overhang to about 2inches.
dough becomes smooth, supple, and elastic, about 3minutes. The dough should be soft but only slightly tacky; if it seems sticky or very tacky, sprinkle in more flour, as needed. If using a stand mixer, transfer the dough to a lightly oiled work surface and knead by hand for a few more seconds. Form the dough into a ball, transfer to a large, lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until its about 1times its original size, 1to 11/2hours. Lightly mist a work surface with oil and transfer the dough to it. Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces (about 6oz. each). Form each piece into a smooth, round ball, lightly mist with oil, and cover with plastic wrap; let rest
on the work surface at room temperature for 20to 30minutes to allow the gluten to relax.
SHAPE THE PRETZELS
Line a large baking sheet with lightly oiled parchment or a silicone baking mat and set aside. Lightly mist a work surface and, using your palms and fingers, roll each piece of dough on the work surface into a rope thats about 30inches long and 1 / 3to 1/2inch thick 1 . If the dough resists or shrinks back, let it rest for a few minutes while you work on other pieces; short rests will let the gluten relax enough to allow for the full rollout. Working with 1 dough rope at a time, shape it into a large U thats 5to 7inches across with
the curve closest to you 2 . Take the 2 ends of the rope in your fingers and cross one over the other so the ends overhang the cross by about 3inches 3 . Twist the ends of the rope, shortening the overhang to about 2inches 4 . Next, pull the twisted end section toward you and fold it down over the bottom curve of the U so the ends are a couple of inches apart and overhang the bottom by about inch 5 . Carefully transfer the pretzels to the prepared baking sheet, spacing them evenly and reshaping as needed. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze until hard, at least 2hours and up to 3 weeks.
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Completely submerge the frozen pretzels in the lye or baking soda bath and let them soak for 5seconds.
Just before baking, sprinkle the risen pretzels with coarse salt.
DIP THE PRETZELS
If using lye, put on protective gloves. Pour 2cups cool water into a small stainless-steel bowl just wide enough to hold one pretzel. Add the lye and stir with a stainless-steel whisk or spoon until completely dissolved. If using baking soda, bring 2cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove from the heat, add the baking soda, and stir until completely dissolved. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to lukewarm, about 30minutes. Using stainless-steel tongs or a stainlesssteel slotted spoon, dip one pretzel at a time in the lye (or baking soda) bath and soak for 5seconds 6 . If the liquid doesnt completely cover the pretzel, turn it over and submerge the other side for 5seconds. Remove the pretzel from the liquid, allowing the excess to
drip off, and return it to the baking sheet. To discard the lye bath, slowly pour it down the sink drain and flush with cool running water for a few seconds. If you wore nondisposable gloves, wash them in cool soapy water and rinse well. If you used a baking soda bath, brush the tops and sides of the pretzels with some of the beaten egg. Let the pretzels thaw and rise at room temperature until they are soft and puffy, 11/2to 2hours.
BAKE THE PRETZELS
Lightly sprinkle the pretzels with the salt 7 . Set the baking sheet of pretzels on another baking sheet (double-pan them) to prevent the bottoms of the pretzels from browning too quickly. Bake, rotating the pan halfway through, until rich, deep mahogany-brown for lye-dipped pretzels or dark golden-brown for baking-soda-dipped pretzels, 20to 22minutes. Transfer the pretzels to a rack and cool for at least 15minutes before serving.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 400F. Brush baking-soda-dipped pretzels once more with egg.
Peter Reinhart is a baking instructor at Johnson & Wales University and the James Beard
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How to Work Safely with Lye

Dont let the idea of working with lye scare youits really not a big deal if you take basic precautions and keep the following in mind: Use food-grade lye; its been used for centuries in Asian cuisines, to cure olives, make hominy from corn, and alkalize cocoa. You can find it in some Asian markets and online. Lye is very alkaline, so if it splashes on your skin, it will sting; if it spills on your work surface, it may stain. Use caution, working slowly and deliberately. If splashes occur, immediately rinse with cool water. Wear protective gloves. If they are nondisposable, wash them in cool soapy water and rinse well after using. Use a stainless-steel bowl to hold the lye bath and stainless-steel tongs or slotted spoon to dip the pretzels. Never let the lye come in contact with aluminum, including foil; lye reacts to aluminum, releasing flammable hydrogen gas. Dispose of the lye bath by slowly pouring it down the sink drain and then flush the pipes with cold running water for a few seconds.
Bake Now,
i love preparing thanksgiving dinner, but in my little kitchen with one small oven and limited counter space, I feel more like a circus ringmaster than an experienced cook when Im trying to get everything on the table. When Im simmering peas, stirring gravy, sauting Brussels sprouts, and trying to nd someone to carve the turkey, the last thing I want to worry about is dessert. But for a pastry chef like me, dessert happens to be the most important part of the mealand one is never enough. To satisfy my desire for a groaning table covered with sweets, I rely on gorgeous, old-fashioned cakes and tarts packed with traditional autumn avorscrunchy nuts, honey, warm spices, pumpkin, cranberries, and even chocolatethat I can bake a couple of days or even weeks ahead.
Just in time for the holiday crunch: four irresistible and completely
The desserts on the following pages are some of my favorite examples. The Chocolate-Honey Ganache Layer Cake and PumpkinPecan Cake with Brown Sugar and Bourbon Glaze actually taste better if given a day or two to age; their avors become more nuanced and complex, and their textures more luscious and moist. The MapleWalnut Tart has a forgiving crust thats both tender and aky, and a rich maple lling thats reminiscent of pecan pie. The CranberryAlmond Shortbread Tart showcases the fruit in an elegant dessert that comes together with the ease of a bar cookie. With a little planning and these recipes in your back pocket, your holiday juggling act is about to get a whole lot easier.
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FIne CookInG oCT/nov 2012
make-ahead sweet endings for your Thanksgiving meal.

You can tell if a cake will keep well at room temperature just by reading the recipe. If it includes a good amount of butter or oil, along with brown sugar, liquid sweeteners like honey, molasses, or jam, or fruit and vegetable pures, its a keeper. These hygroscopic ingredients absorb moisture from the environment. Thats why a cake made with pumpkin, brown sugar, and butter tastes richer and more flavorful when given a day or two to rest before serving.
Eat Later
B Y J I L L O C O N N O R
Desserts that freeze and defrost well are also good keepers. Not every dessert freezes wellsponge cakes dry out and custard pies can get watery when defrosted. But moist, dense, intensely flavored cakes are great candidates. (Note that its best to freeze cakes without frosting them, since freezing will compromise the texture of a glaze or ganache. Fortunately, both are easy to stir together later.) Because they are loaded with fat or sugar or both, buttery shortbread desserts and syrupy nut-filled pies freeze and defrost beautifully. Unlike custard and cream pies, they have little liquid, so when they freeze, fewer ice crystals form; its the thawing ice crystals that can change the texture of a pie and make the crust soggy. These tarts need only a little reheating in the oven to crisp up the crust for a justbaked texture and flavor.
F I n e C o o k I n G .C o M
What Makes a Dessert a Good Keeper?
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pumpkin-pecan cake with brown sugar and bourbon glaze

This cakes warm spices are complemented by bourbon or Cognac and the crunch of sweet candied pecans. Bake the cake at least a day ahead to let the flavors deepen. Serves 10 to 12
FOR THE CAKE 4 oz. (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, softened; more for the pan 131/2 oz. (3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for the pan 2 tsp. baking powder 2 tsp. ground ginger 2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. baking soda
11/4 tsp. kosher salt tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 1 / 8 tsp. ground cloves cup buttermilk 3 Tbs. bourbon or Cognac 11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract cup vegetable oil 21/2 cups packed dark brown sugar 4 large eggs, at room temperature 1 15-oz. can pure pumpkin pure 4 oz. (1 cup) pecan halves, toasted and chopped
rubber spatula to fold in the pecans. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, smooth the top, and tap the pan on the counter once or twice to settle the batter. Bake until a wooden skewer inserted into the center of the cake comes out with just a few moist crumbs clinging to it, 45to 55minutes. Leave the oven on. Cool the cake in the pan on a rack for 10to 15minutes and then invert the cake onto the rack, remove the pan, and let cool completely, at least 3hours.
Make the candied pecans
Heat the brown sugar, honey, and 1 Tbs. water in a 1-quart saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Add the pecans and stir until coated. Spread the pecans curved side up on an oiled rimmed baking sheet and bake in the 350F oven until fragrant and shiny, 7to 10minutes. Transfer the pecans with a metal spatula to parchment to crisp and cool completely, about 20minutes.
Glaze the cake
FOR THE CANDIED PECANS 2 Tbs. packed dark brown sugar 3 oz. (3/4 cup) pecan halves 11/2 tsp. mild honey, such as clover Vegetable oil, for the pan FOR THE GLAZE 3/4 cup packed light or dark brown sugar 4 oz. ( cup) unsalted butter 2 Tbs. light corn syrup
11/2 Tbs. bourbon 1 / 8 tsp. kosher salt 1 / 3 cup heavy cream 4 oz. sifted confectioners sugar (11/4cups) 1 / 8 tsp. pure vanilla extract Make the cake
Set the cake on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet. In a 3-quart saucepan, combine the brown sugar, butter, corn syrup, bourbon, and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the butter melts and the sugar dissolves, about 2minutes. Add the cream, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Continue to boil, stirring occasionally, for exactly 1minute. Remove from the heat. Gently whisk in the confectioners sugar and the vanilla until completely smooth. Let stand until the glaze is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon but still warm and pourable, 3to 8minutes. If a skin forms, gently stir it back into the glaze with a spatula; dont overstir or the glaze may crystallize. Pour the glaze slowly and evenly over the cake. Decorate with the candied pecans while the glaze is warm. When the glaze is set, after about 15 minutes, transfer the cake to a serving plate.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350F. Generously butter and flour a 10- to 12-cup tube pan. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, ginger, cinnamon, salt, baking soda, nutmeg, and cloves. In a measuring cup, combine the buttermilk, bourbon, and vanilla. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium speed until creamy. Gradually add the oil, beating until combined. Add the brown sugar. Increase the mixer speed to high and beat, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until light and fluffy, about 4minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well on mediumhigh speed after each addition. Beat in the pumpkin. Reduce the speed to low, slowly pour in the buttermilk mixture, and mix until combined. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the batter, mixing just until combined. Use a
make it ahead
THE CANDIED PECANS Make them up to 1week ahead and store in an airtight container. THE CAKE For the best flavor and texture, the cake should be made at least 1 day before serving. To store at room temperature, set the completely cooled unglazed cake on a plate, wrap tightly in 2 layers of plastic wrap, and store for up to 2 days. Up to 10 hours before serving, unwrap and glaze the cake. Serve at room temperature. To freeze, set the completely cooled unglazed cake on a 10-inch cardboard cake round. Wrap tightly in 2 layers of plastic wrap and then in foil. Freeze for up to 1week. Up to 10hours before serving, remove the foil but not the plastic wrap from the cake. When completely thawed, unwrap and glaze the cake.
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cranberry-almond shortbread tart

Inspired by fregolatas (large, crisp Italian cookies flavored with almonds and cornmeal), this sturdy bar-cookie-disguised-as-a-tart features a tangy cranberry filling between two tender layers of almond-cornmeal shortbread. Serves 8 to 10
FOR THE CRANBERRY FILLING 1 cup granulated sugar 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice Make the shortbread
12 oz. fresh or thawed frozen cranberries (about 3 cups) 3 Tbs. apricot jam
FOR THE SHORTBREAD 31/2 oz. (1 cup) sliced almonds 9 oz. (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour 13/4 oz. (1/4 cup plus 2 Tbs.) fine yellow cornmeal 3/4 tsp. kosher salt 8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 16pieces and softened 1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 Tbs. packed finely grated lemon zest (from 1 large lemon) 3/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract 1/4 tsp. pure almond extract 1 large egg yolk Cooking spray Confectioners sugar, for garnish (optional) Make the filling
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325F. Spread the almonds on a rimmed baking sheet and toast until warm and fragrant but not yet brown, about 5minutes; let cool completely. In a food processor (with at least a 10-cup capacity), combine the nuts with 2Tbs. of the flour. Pulse until very fine but not powdery, 20to 25short pulses. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the remaining flour, the cornmeal, and salt. In the food processor, combine the butter, sugar, lemon zest, vanilla, and almond extract. Pulse until creamy, 10to 20short pulses. Add the egg yolk and pulse a few times to combine. Add the dry ingredients and pulse, scraping down the sides as necessary, just until a soft dough forms, 30to 40short pulses. Turn the dough out onto a piece of plastic and divide. Lightly coat a round 91/2 x1-inch fluted metal tart pan with a removable bottom with cook-
ing spray. Press half of the dough evenly onto the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Cover with plastic wrap. Form the remaining dough into a disk and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate the dough and the tart shell until very firm, at least 30minutes. Prick the bottom of the tart shell all over with a fork and bake on a heavy-duty baking sheet until firm, dry, and just starting to turn goldenbrown around the edges, 30to 35minutes. The shortbread will have puffed up during baking, so use the back of a spoon to gently press down the bottom of the crust to create enough space for the cranberry filling. Spoon the filling into the tart and spread evenly. Crumble the remaining shortbread dough over the cranberries in pebble-like pieces, covering the filling. Bake until the topping is firm and golden-brown, 30to 35minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack. Carefully remove the tart rim (see Test Kitchen, p. 85). Slide a long, flat spatula between the pastry and the pan bottom and transfer the tart to a serving platter. Dust with confectioners sugar, if using, just before serving.
make them ahead (for both tarts)

THE DOUGH To refrigerate, form the dough for the walnut tart into a disk; form the dough for the cranberry tart into 2 disks. Wrap the dough tightly in 2 layers of plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 2 days. To freeze, put the plastic-wrapped dough in a zip-top bag, seal, and freeze for up to 2 weeks. Thaw the dough overnight in the refrigerator before proceeding with the recipe. THE FINISHED TART Wrap well in 2 layers of plastic wrap and store for up to 2 days at room temperature. To freeze, transfer the finished tart to a 10-inch cardboard cake round. Wrap tightly in 2 layers of plastic wrap and then in foil. Freeze for up to 2 weeks. Up to 10 hours before serving, remove the foil but not the plastic wrap from the tart and thaw at room temperature. When completely thawed, remove the plastic wrap. For freshly baked flavor, warm the tart in a 300F oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool completely before slicing.
Combine the sugar, lemon juice, and cup water in a 3-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar, about 2minutes. Add the cranberries and lower the heat to medium low. Simmer until the cranberries have popped and the liquid is syrupy, 10to 12minutes. Stir in the apricot jam and simmer until the jam melts, about 1minute more. Remove from the heat and let cool completely.
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maple-walnut tart
For a delicious riff on pecan pie, look no further than this sweet, earthy tart. Toasting the nuts helps release their oils and intensify their flavor; it also helps keep them crisp in the sugary filling. Be sure to use maple syrup and maple extract labeled all-natural or pure for real, not artificial, maple flavor. Serves 8 to 10
FOR THE DOUGH 8 oz. (13/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour; more for rolling 1 Tbs. granulated sugar 6 oz. (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 24small pieces and frozen 1 large egg yolk 3 to 4 Tbs. ice water tsp. kosher salt
tsp. fresh lemon juice Cooking spray FOR THE FILLING 2 large eggs 3 large egg yolks 1 tsp. pure maple extract
tsp. pure vanilla extract tsp. kosher salt 1 cup pure maple syrup cup granulated sugar 2 oz. (5 Tbs.) unsalted butter
8 oz. (2 cups) chopped walnuts, toasted
Make the dough
Pulse the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor once or twice to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture is pebbly, with some pea-size bits of butter.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, lemon juice, and 3Tbs. of the ice water. Pour the mixture through the feed tube of the food processor, pulsing to combine. The dough mixture should be moist but should not come together into a ball. If a small handful of dough pressed together does not adhere, add the remaining 1Tbs. ice water, pulsing to combine. Turn the dough mixture onto a piece of plastic wrap; gather the plastic around the dough, pressing the dough into a disk. Wrap tightly in additional plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1hour and up to 2days. Before rolling, let the dough stand at room temperature for about 15minutes to become pliable. Lightly coat a rolling pin with flour and roll the dough on a lightly floured surface into a 15-inch circle. Lightly coat a round 9 x1-inch fluted metal tart pan with a removable bottom with cooking spray. Roll the dough around the rolling pin and carefully unroll over the tart pan. Gently press it into the bottom and up the sides of the pan without stretching. Trim the excess, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Fold the overhang inside the tart and press against the sides to make a double wall about inch higher than the
tart pan (this will offset any shrinkage during baking). Wrap the tart shell in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30minutes and up to 24hours. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat the oven to 425F. Line the tart shell with parchment and add enough beans or pie weights to fill the shell. Bake on a heavyduty rimmed baking sheet until the edges are firm and starting to brown, 15to 20minutes. Carefully lift the parchment and weights from the tart shell. Continue to bake until the bottom of the shell is pale golden, 5to 7minutes more. Let cool on the baking sheet on a rack and reduce the oven temperature to 350F.
Make the filling
In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, yolks, maple and vanilla extracts, and the salt. Set aside. In a 2-quart saucepan, combine the maple syrup and the sugar and cook over mediumhigh heat, stirring constantly until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture just starts to boil, about 3minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and add the butter, stirring until melted. Remove from the heat and let cool for 1minute. Slowly whisk the warm syrup into the egg mixture, drizzling it in about cup at a time and whisking continuously to prevent the hot syrup from cooking the eggs.
Fill and bake the tart
Fill the tart shell with the chopped walnuts. Carefully ladle the filling over the walnuts to within inch of the rim (do not overfill; there may be a little filling left over). Bake the tart until it is just set in the center, 30to 40minutes (if the crust is golden-brown before the filling is set, cover the edges loosely with foil). Cool completely on the baking sheet on a rack. Carefully remove the tart rim (see Test Kitchen, p. 85). Slide a long, flat spatula between the pastry and the pan bottom and transfer the tart to a serving platter.
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chocolate-honey ganache layer cake

The combination of natural and Dutch-processed cocoa powder, coffee, and mild honey gives this cake an incredibly moist texture and an intense, complex, and very grown-up chocolate flavor. Making the cake layers ahead allows the flavors to develop, and making the ganache ahead gives it time to firm up to the perfect texture for spreading. Serves 16
FOR THE CAKE Cooking spray 21/4 oz. ( cup) natural unsweetened cocoa powder 11/2 oz. (1/2 cup) Dutch-processed cocoa powder 11/2 cups hot, strong brewed coffee 1 cup mild honey, such as clover 131/2 oz. (3 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour 11/2 tsp. baking powder 11/2 tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. kosher salt 6 oz. ( cup) unsalted butter, softened 1 cup packed dark brown sugar 1 cup granulated sugar 4 large eggs, at room temperature 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract FOR THE CHOCOLATE-HONEY GANACHE 1 lb. semisweet chocolate (60% cacao), finely chopped 2 cups heavy cream 2 oz. (4 Tbs.) cold unsalted butter, cut into 4pieces 3 Tbs. dark rum (optional) 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract FOR THE CHOCOLATE CURLS (OPTIONAL) 1 thick block semisweet chocolate Make the cake
the top and sides of the cake to seal in any crumbs. Refrigerate for 5to 10minutes to allow the crumb coat to set. Spread the remaining ganache evenly over the top and sides of the cake.
Make the chocolate curls
3/4 cup vegetable oil
cup sour cream, at room temperature
1/4 cup mild honey, such as clover
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium speed. Gradually add the oil, beating until combined. Add the brown sugar and granulated sugar. Raise the mixer speed to high and beat until light and fluffy, about 3minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well on medium-high speed after each addition. Add the sour cream and vanilla, beating just until combined. With the mixer on low, alternately add the flour mixture in three additions and the cocoa mixture in two additions, beginning and ending with the flour (scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary). Beat just until combined. Divide the batter between the two pans, using an offset spatula to spread it evenly. Tap the pans once or twice on the counter to settle the batter. Bake, rotating the pans halfway through, until a wooden skewer inserted in the center of each cake comes out with only a few moist crumbs clinging to it, 40to 50minutes. Cool the cakes in their pans on a rack for 10to 15minutes. Run a knife along the sides of the pans, invert the cakes onto the rack, and remove the pans and the parchment. Let cool completely.
Make the ganache
To decorate the cake with chocolate curls, if using, soften the chocolate in the microwave on high power for 30to 50seconds. Scrape a vegetable peeler firmly down one side of the chocolate block to form thick curls. Put the curls on a plate and refrigerate until theyre firm enough to handle. Scatter over the top of the frosted cake.
make it ahead
THE GANACHE For the best spreading texture, the ganache should be made 8to 24hours ahead. Keep covered at room temperature. THE CAKE For the best flavor and texture, the cake should be made at least 1 day before serving. To store at room temperature, wrap each completely cooled layer tightly in 2 layers of plastic wrap and store for up to 2days. Up to 10hours before serving, fill and frost the cake. Keep the cake at room temperature, covered with a dome, until ready to serve. To freeze the cake layers, transfer each completely cooled unfrosted layer to a 10inch cardboard cake round and wrap tightly in 2 layers of plastic wrap and then in foil. Freeze for up to 2weeks. Up to 15hours before serving, remove the foil but not the plastic wrap from the cake layers and thaw at room temperature. When completely thawed, unwrap, fill, and frost the cake. If you plan to travel with this cake, its easier to transport if its refrigerated, uncovered, until the ganache is firm. To aid transport, assemble the cake on a cardboard cake round and transfer it to a covered cake carrier once its firm. When you arrive at your destination, put the cake on a serving plate and allow it to come to room temperature before slicing.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350F. Spray two 10-inch round cake pans (with at least 2-inch sides) with cooking spray and line the bottom of each with parchment. Sift both cocoa powders into a medium bowl. Whisk in the coffee and then the honey. Let cool completely. Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into a medium bowl.
Put the chocolate in a large heatproof bowl. Combine the heavy cream and honey in a 2-quart saucepan. Stir with a silicone spatula over medium-high heat until the honey dissolves into the cream, about 30seconds. Just as the cream comes to a simmer, remove it from the heat and pour it over the chocolate. Let stand about 1minute; then whisk until smooth. Whisk in the butter, rum (if using), and vanilla until the butter is melted and the mixture is glossy. Cool the ganache at room temperature for at least 8hours. It will thicken as it cools. (The ganache can sit, covered, at room temperature for up to 24hours.)
Frost the cake
Set one of the cake layers on a serving plate. Spread about 1cup ganache over the surface of the cake. Top with the second cake layer and spread a very thin layer of ganache over
Jill OConnor is a pastry chef and the author of five cookbooks; her latest is Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey: Desserts for the Serious Sweet Tooth.
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Tips/Techniques/Equipment/Ingredients/Glossary
t e s t k i tc h e n
equipment
Confectioners sugar spoon

it was love at first sift with this confectioners sugar spoon. Combining the sifting action of a sieve and the ease and convenience of a spoon, it showers a perfectly even dusting of confectioners sugar or cocoa powder onto any dessert. Plus, its so dainty and easy to handle that you can do your dusting tableside. Julissa Roberts
85
INGREDIENT
Eat your greens

As the cooler temperatures of autumn arrive, markets fill up with an abundance of hearty greens. We call for several different ones in this issue, including the varieties here. Each has a unique flavor profile, is packed with nutrients, and deserves a place on your dinner table. Read on for ways to cook them. Shelley Wiseman
Variety
Kale
Flavor and Texture

Firm and peppery, with a slightly bitter edge.
How to Cook
Blanch and saut lightly in a little olive oil or butter. Add raw to soups, stews, and braises. Shred thinly and serve as a salad with a strongly flavored dressing. Make chips: see What Were Cooking Now (Swiss chard), page19. Add to soups and stews (if using stems, add them firstthey take longer than the leaves to cook). Steam, squeeze dry, and chop for a frittata or quiche filling. Slice into thin ribbons for a raw pizza topping. Make chips: see What Were Cooking Now, page19. Use raw in salads. Cook with onion in broth and pure into a soup. Chop and add to white bean soup. Quarter and braise or grill.
Swiss chard
Sweet with a vegetal earthiness. The hearty stems and leaves are both edible.
Escarole
Slightly bitter greens with sweet, crunchy white parts.
EQUIPMENT
Drawer chic
Bok choy Delicate, with a mild crunch. Good for soaking up other flavors. Cut into 2-inch pieces and stir-fry or steam with fish or shrimp. Quarter and grill, basted with a miso glaze. Quarter and braise in butter and broth.
Mustard greens
Tender and herbal with a horseradish-like bite.
Touch each photo for recipes using each type of green at FineCooking.com
Saut torn leaves with garlic in olive oil or butter until wilted and tender. Add sugar, salt, vinegar, and hot sauce to sauted greens and serve as a pickle to accompany rich meats. Add to pork or beef stew for a spicy finish.
trying to find the right kitchen tool in a jumbled drawer is frustrating. Drawer Decor solves this problem with brightly colored silicone mats and small silicone dividers that keep tools in place in a single layer. Just cut the base mat to t your drawer, arrange your tools on the mat, and place the dividers where you want them (they stick to the mat; to rearrange, simply lift the dividers to move them). You may not have the drawer space to put all of your implements side by side, but choosing those you need most for this kind of treatment means youll nd them every time, and theyll stay put even with lots of drawer movement. Available in orange, red, green, blue, or purple. A starter set comes with one 14x20-inch silicone mat and 15 dividers in different sizes. See Where to Buy It, page 95, for a mail-order source . S. W.
86
Photographs by Scott Phillips, except p. 85 by Miki Duisterhof
2 oz. = 1/2 cup
2 oz. = 2 cups
tip
Parmigiano-Reggiano: to grate or to grind?

when it comes to grating hard cheeses like ParmigianoReggiano, a rasp-style grater is our go-to toolmost of the time, that is. When large amounts are needed (as for the risotto on page26), a food processor does the job faster and with less elbow grease. Just trim the rind off the cheese (reserve for flavoring a soup or stew), cut the cheese into 1-inch chunks, and process up to 1/2 lb. at a time in a food processor until very finely ground (about the size of kosher salt crystals). While a rasp grater will make light, fluffy shreds, cheese ground in a food processor will be much more compact, actually measuring a quarter of the volume for the same weight. S. W.
technique
How to peel hazelnuts

Not only does toasting bring out the flavor of hazelnuts, it also allows you to remove their slightly bitter skins. Heres how to do it:
Bake the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet at 350F until theyre fragrant and golden and the skins start to separate from the nuts, 12 to 15 minutes.
Wrap the nuts in a clean kitchen towel and, holding the towel closed, vigorously rub the nuts against each other to loosen the skins.
Open the towel and roll the nuts away from the skins. Its OK if a little skin still clings to the nuts. S. W.
87
technique
How to make high, double-thick sides for a filled tart

When a tart shell is blind-baked, as for the Maple-Walnut Tart on page81, the sides tend to shrink slightly and break easily, making it tricky to add a filling, especially a soft or liquid one. To offset the shrinkage and avoid this problem, you can create sturdy double-thick sides that are slightly higher than the pan. S. W.
After fitting the rolled dough into the tart pan, cut the overhang to 1inch and fold it down inside the tart against the sides.
Press against the sides with your thumb to make a double wall about inch higher than the tart pan. Gently push the dough up or down where necessary to create an even edge.
ingredient
What are glass noodles?

also known as cellophane, bean thread, or crystal noodles, glass noodles are very thin, white, semi-translucent dried noodles made from mung bean starch and water. They can be prepared two ways. For crunchy noodles, deep-fry them until they puff up. Use them as a crispy garnish, a bed for meats, or a crumbled coating for shrimp or fish. For soft noodles, reconstitute them with hot water until they are pliable, then drain and cool with cold running water. Theyll have very little flavor of their own, but theyll do a great job of absorbing other flavors in salads, stir-fries, stews, and soups, like the Asian Turkey Noodle Soup with Bok Choy on page10. Look for them in Asian food markets. J. R.
ingredient
Great ideas for using clam broth
If you make one of the clam chowders in this issue (page64), you may have some clam broth left over. It freezes well, so you can keep it on hand to use in any number of dishes. Try these simple, delicious ideas :
Clam digger cocktail Add 1/4cup clam broth to a Bloody Mary. Seafood risotto Use clam broth instead of chicken broth to make risotto, and add scallops or other seafood towards the end so it just cooks through. Mexican shrimp cocktail Combine 2parts clam broth and 1part ketchup in a tall glass, season with hot sauce and add small cooked shrimp and coarsely chopped white onion, avocado, and cilantro. Garnish with a lime wedge and serve with a long iced tea spoon. Clam cream sauce for lobster, scallops, or shrimp Boil 1cup wine with 1/4cup chopped shallots until reduced to a glaze (about 2Tbs. liquid). Add 1cup clam broth and boil to reduce by half. Add 1 cup heavy cream and boil to reduce by half. Season with salt and pepper and strain out the shallots. S. W.
88
inGredient
What to do with leftover risotto

we doubt you will have any of the delicious risotto from the recipe on page 26 left over, but if you do, these classic Italian mozzarella-stuffed fried rice balls are a tasty way to use it up.
arancini
1 large egg
Yields about 15
2 cups cold leftover risotto 2 cups fine fresh breadcrumbs 5 oz. fresh mozzarella, cut into -inch cubes 6 cups vegetable oil, for frying Kosher salt
equipment
Treat your feet

There arent many things in life that both feel good and are good for you, but these easy-to-clean, super-cushioned Wellnessmats are one of them. made from 100 percent polyurethane, with bevelled edges to prevent tripping, theyre incredibly comfortable to stand on; plus, theyre kind to your feet and your back since they take the pressure off your feet and help you stand straighter. Available in a variety of shapes and sizes, including corner connectors that fit together like puzzle pieces, the mats come with a seven-year guarantee. See page 95 for where to buy them. S. W.
Stir together the risotto and egg until thoroughly combined. Put the breadcrumbs in a shallow bowl. Roll a small handful of risotto into a ball about 1inches in diameter, gently push a cube of mozzarella into the center, and reshape the ball, covering the cheese completely. Coat in the breadcrumbs and transfer to a plate. Repeat until all of the risotto is used. pour the vegetable oil into a 3-quart saucepan and heat to 350f over medium-high heat. Working in batches of 5 or 6, fry the arancini, turning occasionally, until browned and heated through, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and serve. J. R.
equipment
ode to a wooden spatula

For many of us in the test kitchen, the wooden spatula is a low-tech secret weapon. Compared with a wooden spoon, its sturdy flat edge does a better job of scraping up those yummy brown bits at the bottom of a skillet, stirring a custard to keep the egg from overcooking on the bottom, and preventing a crust from forming on the bottom of a pot of mashed potatoes. Now the secret is out. S. W.
equipment
oil misters, demystified

Oil misters are popular for helping reduce the amount of oil used in cooking and baking recipes. They quickly and effectively coat large areas (baking sheets, skillets, food, work surfaces) when only a touch of oil is needed, as in the Bavarian-Style Pretzels on page 72. To create the pressure needed for an even spray they need only be pumped a few times (each manufacturer recommends the optimal number of pumps). These three models are our favorites. See Where to Buy It, page 95, for sources.
misto Gourmet Olive Oil Sprayer Its sleek brushed-
prepara tabletop mister A
norpro Stainless Steel mister
aluminum body is elegant and sturdy, and it protects the oil from light for longer shelf life. With 15 pumps you get a clean, easily controlled spray.
clean-looking glass mister thats ready to use with just seven pumps. We like that the body of the mister can go straight into the dishwasher, and since its transparent, you can see how much oil you have left.
This mister combines some of the advantages of the other two. It has a sturdy stainless-steel cover and base but the convenience of a transparent plastic body. It takes 10 pumps to create a fine spray J. R.
tip
Unmolding made easy
Before you can serve a tart baked in a fluted tart pan (like the ones on pages 8081), you have to unmold it from its pan. rather than holding the base in your hand and having the rim slip awkwardly onto your arm, stabilize the pan on a bowl or souffl dish thats a little smaller than the inside edge of the tart rim. press gently on the rim so it slips down to the counter. then move the tart on its base to the countertop and run a long, flat spatula between the tart and base to separate the two before transferring the tart to a serving plate. S. W.
90
fine Cooking oCT/nov 2012
fo r s o u r c e s , s e e W h e r e t o B u y i t
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Drinks
Pairings
Soups
What to drink with what's in this issue.

Asian Turkey Noodle Soup with Bok Choy, p. 10
Pair with sake Why The yeasty flavors of a full-bodied sake (alcohol fermented from rice) will taste great with the gingery broth, while the sakes hint of spice and fruit offsets the mildly bitter bok choy. Bottles Saiya Brewery Yuri Masamune, Akita, Japan ($20/720 ml); Nakao Brewery Seikyo Takehara Junmai, Hiroshima, Japan ($26/720 ml).
B Y P AT R I C K WAT S O N
Rhode Island Clam Chowder, p. 69

Pair with Loire Valley Muscadet Why Muscadets delicate salinity and clean minerality bring out the fresh clam flavors here and enhance the smoky bacon, too. Bottles 2010 Domaine Luneau-Papin Muscadet Svre et Maine, Loire Valley, France ($12); 2010 Domaine des Quatre Routes Muscadet Svre et Maine, Loire Valley, France ($17).
Chicken Cutlets with Cacciatore Farro Salad, p. 56

Pair with Txakoli Why Txakoli (cha-ko-lee), a slightly spritzy white wine varietal from the Basque region in Spain, offers tons of refreshing acidity to balance the fried chicken cutlets and rich aoli, plus fresh lime and mineral flavors and a touch of salt to go with the hearty farro salad. Bottles 2010 Txomin Etxaniz, Getaria, Spain ($18); 2010 Urki Txakoli, Getaria, Spain ($25).
Curried Apple and Parsnip Soup, p. 51

Pair with dry sherry Why Dry oloroso sherrys dark, nutty undertones and bracing acidity balance the soups richness and its slightly sweet apple flavor. Serve lightly chilled. Bottles Emilio Lustau Dry Oloroso Don Nuo, Jerez, Spain ($19); El Maestro Sierra Oloroso 15 Aos, Jerez, Spain ($21/375 ml).
Chicken & Turkey

Cider-Glazed Chicken Thighs, p. 11
Pair with Pinot Noir Why The velvety texture and mouthwatering finish of these medium-bodied reds wash down the sweet cider glaze on the chicken, priming you for the next bite. Bottles 2009 Coopers Creek Pinot Noir, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand ($14); 2010 Hirsch Vineyards Bohan Dillon Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California ($33).
Beef, Pork & Lamb

Pork Chops with CranberryMaple Pan Sauce, p. 11
Pair with barrel-aged ale Why The ales long finish coats your palate, leaving your mouth watering for more, while the bitter hops offset the cranberry-maple sweetness of the sauce. Bottles Allagash Brewing Company Curieux, Portland, Maine ($17/750 ml); Schlafly Reserve Imperial Stout, St. Louis, Missouri ($13/750 ml).
New England Clam Chowder, p. 67

Pair with pale ale Why The smoky bacon, briny clams, and cream in the chowder are brought down to earth by the slightly bitter, hoppy flavor and soft, frothy texture of these beers. Bottles Cisco Brewers Whales Tale Pale Ale, Nantucket, Massachusetts ($2.50/12 oz.); Gearys Pale Ale, Portland, Maine ($2/12 oz.).
Bacon-Wrapped Smoked Turkey, p. 40

Pair with dry Riesling Why A juicy, refreshing Riesling with strong acidity is just the thing to balance the turkeys smoky, spicy flavors. Bottles 2010 Selbach Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany ($17); 2008 Brooks Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($21).
Skirt Steak with Mushrooms and Shallots, p. 12

Pair with rustic red Bordeaux Why Dont shell out for pricey, super-elegant Bordeaux for this dishkeep it simple with the regions more rustic bottles, which boast a natural earthiness and deep mushroom flavors that are delicious with beef. Bottles 2009 Chteau Fantin Bordeaux Suprieur Rouge, Bordeaux, France ($12); 2009 Sverine & Philippe mile Roc du Manoir Ctes de Castillon, Bordeaux, France ($18).
Manhattan Clam Chowder, p. 68

Pair with Long Island Merlot Why The coastal North Fork wine region on Long Island, New York, produces Merlots with salty freshness and a Bourdeaux-like earthiness that beautifully match the seafood and tomato flavors in this soup. Bottles 2009 Shinn Estate Vineyards Estate Merlot, Long Island, New York ($27); 2009 Jamesport Vineyards East End Series Merlot, Long Island, New York ($17).
Classic Chicken Cacciatore, p. 56

Pair with Petite Sirah Why The high acidity in this red varietal matches the acidity of the tomatoes, and its hearty blast of spice and concentrated dark red fruit flavors will enhance the dish's herbal notes, too. Bottles 2009 Fleur de California Petite Sirah, North Coast, California ($15); 2009 Robert Biale Vineyards Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, California ($42).
Txakoli, a slightly spritzy white varietal from the Basque region in Spain, offers fresh lime and mineral flavors and a touch of salt to offset rich fried foods.
92
Beef Tenderloin with Roquefort-Pecan Butter, p. 20

Pair with a full-bodied red wine from the Languedoc, France Why The birthplace of Roquefort, the Languedoc region produces reds with remarkable dark fruit flavors and layers of earthiness that match the dishs rich beef, cheese, and nuts. Bottles 2011 Domaine Faillenc Sainte Marie, Corbires, France ($14); 2008 Domaine Lon Barral Cuve Jadis, Faugres, France ($38).
A juicy, refreshing Riesling with strong acidity is just the thing to balance smoky, spicy flavors.
Sauted Shrimp and Pancetta with Cheese Grits, p. 14
Pair with white wine from the Ligurian coast Why The gentle citrus notes and salty freshness of whites produced on the Ligurian coast in northwestern Italy are a great foil for cheesy grits and pancetta; theyll soften the spicy overtones in this dish, too. Bottles 2010 Bisson Vermentino Vigne Intrigoso Golfo del Tigullio, Liguria, Italy ($18); 2010 Bruna Pigato Le Russeghine Riviera Ligure di Ponente, Liguria, Italy ($23).
Pasta & Rice

Penne with Sausage, Fennel, and Pecorino, p. 14
Pair with Montepulciano dAbruzzo Why Sweet sausage and Montepulciano are one of the worlds greatest pairingshere, the delicate anise notes in these medium-bodied Italian reds complement both the sausage and the fennel in the dish. Bottles 2010 Vigneti del Sole Montepulciano dAbruzzo, Abruzzo, Italy ($8); 2008 Italo Pietrantonj Montepulciano dAbruzzo, Abruzzo, Italy ($14).
Black-Pepper-Crusted Beef Tenderloin, p. 60

Pair with Argentine Bonarda Why This Argentine-inspired dish begs for a spicy Bonarda, which offers deep red fruit flavors and a natural expression of black pepper as well as a lush, herbal quality that pairs well with the chimichurri sauce. Bottles 2010 Familia Mayol Bonarda, Mendoza, Argentina ($15); 2010 La Posta Vinatero Bonarda, Mendoza, Argentina ($17).
Risotto, p. 26
Pair with a light red wine from Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy Why Red wines from this region are famous for their fresh-berry tartness and light body, making them a perfect foil for rich, creamy risotto. Bottles 2010 Muri-Gries Lagrein, TrentinoAlto Adige, Italy ($16); 2009 Foradori Teroldego, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($18).
Beer-Battered Coconut Shrimp, p. 63

Pair with ice-cold lager or oak-aged Chardonnay Why I honestly cant choose which is the better pairing here. A light, bubbly lager (preferably the one you use in the batter) will refresh your palate, but a buttery Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, with matching nuances of coconut and a soft, briny quality to go with the shrimp, is equally delicious. Bottles Corona Extra Pale Lager, Mexico ($1/12oz.); 2011 Elizabeth Spencer Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California ($16).
Southwestern Lamb Shanks, p. 62

Pair with Loire Valley Gamay Why These gently spicy, softly acidic red wines can stand up to the bold flavors here, complementing both the cranberries and the slight gaminess of the lamb. Bottles 2010 G. Descombes Morgon, Beaujolais, France ($27); 2009 Domaine Cheveau Beaujolais Villages Or Rouge, Beaujolais, France ($16).
Breads
Soft Pretzels, p. 72
Pair with wheat beers Why A pretzels tender, bready chew and salty kiss are well matched by the yeasty effervescence of wheat beer, which will tickle and cleanse your palate with its tiny bubbles. Bottles Weissbierbrauerei Hopf Helle Weisse, Meisbach, Germany ($5/16.9oz.); Ayinger Bru-Weisse, Aying, Germany ($3.50/16.9oz.).
Seafood
Pan-Fried Catfish with Creamy Greens, p. 13
Pair with Viognier Why Known for floral aromatics and hints of melon, pear, and honey, Viognier has a hint of sweetness and naturally refreshing acidity that cuts beautifully through the fish and creamy bitter greens. Bottles 2010 Chteau Massiac Viognier, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($15); 2010 Cold Heaven Viognier, Santa Ynez Valley, California ($26).
Eggs
Leek and Goat Cheese Frittata, p. 12
Pair with white Rioja Why Whites from this esteemed Spanish wine region offer soft yet refreshing nuances of tropical fruits, which go perfectly with delicately sweet leeks, egg, and tangy goat cheese. Bottles 2010 Cune Monopole, Rioja, Spain ($13); 2008 Remelluri Blanco, Rioja, Spain ($37).
Patrick Watson is the owner of Smith & Vine, a wine shop in Brooklyn, New York, and a Fine Cooking contributing editor.
93
ipad bonus pairings
Appetizers & Snacks

Maple and Black Pepper Pecans, p. 21
Pair with Grner Veltliner Why These clean, mineraldriven Austrian whites offer peppery, spicy flavors and acidity that will soak up the black pepper in the pecans. Bottles 2011 Schloss Gobelsberg Gobelsburger Grner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria ($15); 2010 Loimer Grner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria ($17).
Desserts
Chocolate-PomegranateGinger Bark, p. 18
Pair with Lacrima di Morro dAlba Why Just about any medium-bodied, dry red wine with floral aromatics would taste delicious with this candy. But for a truly special pairing, seek out reds made from the wine grape Lacrima di Morro dAlba, which grows in the Marche region in Italy. The acidic pomegranate and spicy ginger in this recipe will intertwine with the wines stunning aromatics of mandarin and blueberry and its gentle tannins. Bottles 2010 Conti di Buscareto Lacrima di Morro dAlba, Marche, Italy ($16); 2009 Velenosi Lacrima di Morro dAlba, Marche, Italy ($14).
Cranberry-Almond Shortbread Tart, p. 80

Pair with orange wine Why What are orange wines, you ask? Theyre white wines that have undergone a deeper extraction of their grape skins to become golden-orange in color. Loaded with fresh, exotic fruit flavors like lichee, roasted peach, and passionfruit, these wines will brilliantly counteract the tartness of the cranberries. Bottles 2008 Detorri Vermentino Bianco, Sardinia, Italy ($33); 2010 Channing Daughters Envelope, North Fork, Long Island, New York ($28).
Arancini, p. 89
Pair with Prosecco Why A traditional sparkling Italian Prosecco, with its delicate fizz and dry, soft stone fruit flavors, will wash away the richness of these fried morsels, leaving your mouth watering and ready for more.
Bottles
Maple-Walnut Tart, p. 81
Pair with Calvados Why Quite possibly one of the most overlooked spirits on the liquor store shelf, Calvados (apple brandy) is an ideal match for this rich tart. Boasting delicious caramel and butterscotch notes, this smooth-tasting spirit will enhance the tart's maple and walnut flavors. Bottles Didier Lemorton Calvados Domfrontais, Calvados, France ($60); Germain-Robin Apple Brandy, Mendocino County, California ($75).
2010 Bisson Prosecco dei Colli Trevigiani, Veneto, Italy ($16); Casa Coste Piane Sur Lie Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy ($19).
Pumpkin-Pecan Cake with Brown Sugar and Bourbon Glaze, p. 78

Pair with aged bourbon Play off the toasty-sweet flavors of the glaze and serve this cake with an aged bourbon from gently charred oak barrels; aged bourbons tend to be richer than younger ones. Bottles Henry McKenna Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Fairfield, Kentucky ($21); Johnny Drum Private Stock Bourbon, Bardstown, Kentucky ($32).
Why
Salads
Pecan, Radicchio, and Asian Pear Salad, p.21
Pair with Alsatian Gewrztraminer Why Frances Alsace region is known for its Gewrztraminer, which is loaded with exotic lichee flavors and a touch of residual sugar to offset the sweet pear, rich pecan, and bitter radicchio in this salad. Bottles 2007 Albert Boxler Gewrztraminer, Alsace, France ($28); 2010 Kuentz-Bas Gewrztraminer Tradition, Alsace, France ($24).
German Pear Pancake, p. 61

Pair with sparkling Vouvray Why Made from Chenin Blanc grapes, sparkling Vouvrays have incredible acidity and notes of ripe pears and stone fruits that highlight the fruity delicacy of the pancake. Bottles 2010 Philippe Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Sec, Loire Valley, France ($25); Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau Vouvray Sec, Loire Valley, France ($21).
Chocolate-Honey Ganache Layer Cake, p. 83

Pair with chocolate or coffee stout Why These flavorful, not-too-bitter brews offer complexity and balance against the sweetness of the cake, while adding yet another layer of chocolate and honey goodness. Bottles 2010 Brooklyn Brewerys Black Chocolate Stout, Brooklyn, New York ($23/12oz.); 2011 Great Divide Brewing Company Espresso Oak Aged Yeti Stout, Denver, Colorado ($12/22oz.).
Apple and Escarole Salad with Blue Cheese and Hazelnuts, p.50
Pair with Sauvignon Blanc Thanks to high acidity and wild bursts of grapefruit and lemon, these dry, crisp wines cut through blue cheese and escarole like a knife. Bottles 2010 Domaine Girard La Garenne Sancerre, Loire Valley, France ($25); 2011 Holman Ranch Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Carmel Valley, California ($20).
Why
93-A
93-B
nutrition
Recipes make it tonight, p. 10
Pork Chops with Cranberry-Maple Pan Sauce Pan-Seared Catfish with Creamy Greens Asian Turkey Noodle Soup with Bok Choy Leek and Goat Cheese Frittata Skirt Steak with Mushrooms and Shallots Penne with Sausage, Fennel, and Pecorino Sauted Shrimp and Pancetta with Grits Cider-Glazed Chicken Thighs 410 650 270 370 480 640 670 730 310 250 320 640 410 100 680 330 120 170 180 370 230 290 600 1050 240 530 530 590 370 250 240 380 820 760 520 570 130 140 430 45 260 310 270 260 430 130 210 280 470 120 0 340 170 90 60 90 140 120 210 260 490 90 350 380 160 160 70 60 25 370 400 220 320 60 34 37 27 15 34 23 53 61 5 3 3 39 13 0 61 5 3 1 7 3 4 6 61 52 7 25 33 61 22 21 21 13 8 8 6 8 4 31 19 30 12 6 70 50 10 39 11 13 3 57 25 21 35 7 23 18 56 24 16 9 81 31 16 4 38 28 23 23 73 105 89 74 57 11 16 48 5 29 35 30 29 48 15 23 31 53 13 0 38 19 10 7 10 16 14 24 29 55 10 40 43 18 18 8 7 3 42 46 24 36 7 4.5 16 1.5 13 11 8 10 14 9 3.5 4 21 5 0 13 12 2.5 1 5 9 6 5 8 12 5 7 11 5 10 1 3 0 14 22 12 14 2.5 8 21 1.5 11 20 16 13 20 5 12 16 21 6 0 13 5 5 5 3 4.5 6 15 12 27 3 12 24 9 5 4.5 1.5 1 16 15 8 8 2.5 2 8 1.5 2.5 2.5 3.5 3.5 8 0 6 10 6 1.5 0 9 1 1.5 1 1 1 1 2.5 6 13 1 17 3 2 1 1 0.5 1 9 6 2 12 1.5 85 130 55 320 105 30 300 375 0 10 5 170 20 0 200 95 10 0 25 95 25 10 190 210 140 185 120 180 105 55 65 15 115 125 65 155 25 500 1190 650 510 400 1030 830 520 150 140 220 730 330 0 1880 210 150 390 290 130 280 330 500 810 160 980 770 580 1070 1120 890 1180 370 270 95 105 230 1 5 1 1 1 8 3 0 7 3 5 1 1 1 1 3 3 4 6 2 3 5 2 10 2 1 1 4 3 3 2 3 4 4 4 2 0
Calories (kcal)
Fat Cal (kcal)
Protein (g)
Carb (g)
Total Fat (g)
Sat Fat (g)
Mono Fat (g)
Poly Fat (g)
Chol (mg)
Sodium (mg)
Fiber (g)
pomegranates, p. 17
Chocolate-Pomegranate-Ginger Bark
pecans, p. 20
Maple and Black Pepper Pecans Pecan, Radicchio, and Asian Pear Salad Beef Tenderloin with Roquefort-Pecan Butter
risotto, p. 26
Risotto
the Good Life, p. 30

Orange-Maple Cranberry Sauce
turkey bbq, p. 38
Bacon-Wrapped Smoked Turkey
fall sides, p. 42
Fluffy Mashed Potatoes Green Beans with Almonds and Garlic Maple-Roasted Carrots Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta and Pearl Onions
apples, p. 48
Apple Upside-Down Cake Curried Parsnip and Apple Soup Apple and Escarole Salad with Blue Cheese
chicken cacciatore, p. 54
Classic Chicken Cacciatore Chicken Cutlets with Cacciatore Farro Salad
cast-iron cooking, p. 58
German Pear Pancake Beer-Battered Coconut Shrimp with Rmoulade Black-Pepper-Crusted Beef Tenderloin Southwestern Lamb Shanks
clam chowder, p. 64
New England Clam Chowder Manhattan Clam Chowder Rhode Island Clam Chowder
pretzels, p. 70
Bavarian-Style Soft Pretzels
make-ahead desserts, p. 76
Pumpkin-Pecan Cake with Bourbon Glaze Chocolate-Honey Ganache Layer Cake Cranberry-Almond Shortbread Tart Maple-Walnut Tart
test kitchen, p. 85
Arancini
The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients without specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper arent specified, the analysis is based on 1/4 tsp. salt and 1 / 8 tsp. pepper per serving for entres, and 1 / 8 tsp. salt and 1 / 16 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.
94
fine coo k ing oct / no v 2 0 1 2
W H E R E TO B U Y I T
test kitchen, p. 85
800-981-4979.
WellnessMat, $119.95 for a 2x3-foot mat, wellnessmats.com, Bistro Mario Batali Crocs, $44.99 at crocs.com, 866-306 Powdered sugar spoon, $2.95, crateandbarrel.com, 800 Scandinavian carved wooden spatula, $6, westelm.com, Drawer Decor starter kit, $25.99, drawerdecor.com.
From amazon.com, 800-201-7575: Misto Gourmet olive oil sprayer, $10.05. Prepara tabletop mister, $18.09. Norpro stainless-steel mister, $8.80. 888-922-4119. 967-6696. 3179.
cooking in cast iron, p. 58
Lodge Logic 12-inch skillet
with assist handle, $36.95, lodgemfg.com, 423-8377181.
big buy, p. 20
J. Leblanc roasted walnut La Tourangelle roasted

walnut oil, $5.99 for oil, $16.99 for 8 oz., thefrenchybee.com, 866-379-9975.
fall sides, p. 42
Preserved autumn leaves,

courtesy of botanicalart .etsy.com.
turkey, p. 38
250 ml, latourangelle .com, 510-970-9960.
Apple and hickory hardwood chips, $5.99 for 2 lb., barbecuewood .com, 800-379-9663.
entertainers kitchen, p. 33
Auto-Chlor SpaceSaver undercounter dishmachine (model Metro Super Erecta shelves, $74.50 to $297, metroshelving Liebherr refrigerator
.net, 800-400-7500.
freezer, model SBS 246, 48-inch side by side, built in, with ve temperature zones, prices vary, liebherr.us for dealer locations, 866-543-2437. Garland six-burner gas range with two standard ovens and 24-inch raised griddle/broiler, model G60-6R24RR, $4,742, katom.com, 800-541-8683. T & S Brass pre-rinse faucet, 8-inch center deck mounted with 24-inch riser, $290, bigtray.com, 800-244-8729.
U34), prices vary, autochlor.net for dealer locations.
pretzels, p. 70
Photographs by Scott Phillips, except lower right by Charles Miller
Food-grade lye (sodium hydroxide) microbeads, $7.99
for 50 grams, modernist pantry.com, 469-443-6634. Pretzel salt, $1.99 for 1 lb., nuts.com, 800-558-6887. half size, $15.60, jbprince .com, 800-473-0577.
Silpat nonstick baking sheet,
Deep tin container with

clear top, 4 oz., 83,
bake now, eat later, p. 76

our.com, 800-827-6836.
Boyajian natural maple flavor, $4.95 for 1 oz., kingarthur 10-inch cardboard cake rounds, $6.24 for 12, thebakers
kitchen.net, 419-891-9693.
Tablecraft 24-inch
specialtybottle.com, 206-382-1100.
magnetic knife bar with wooden base (2924W),
$18.75, restaurantsource .com, 800-765-0274.
95
menus
Home-Style Italian Dinner Soup and Salad Duos
New England Clam Chowder
page 67
Butternut Squash, Pancetta, and Sage Risotto

page 27
Classic Chicken Cacciatore

page 56
Pecan, Radicchio, and Asian Pear Salad

page 21
Asian Turkey Noodle Soup with Bok Choy

page 10
The Ultimate Thanksgiving

Maple and Black Pepper Pecans
page 21
Figs with Pistachios, Ricotta, and Honey

FineCooking.com
To drink: 2010 I Campi Campo Vulcano Soave Classico, Veneto, Italy
Cucumber, Basil, and Peanut Salad

FineCooking.com
Curried Parsnip and Apple Soup

page 51
Manhattan Clam Chowder

page 68
Bacon-Wrapped Smoked Turkey

page 40
Caesar Salad
FineCooking.com
Herbed Bread Dressing with Bacon, Chestnuts, and Prunes

FineCooking.com
Fluffy Mashed Potatoes

page 44
Green Beans with Almonds and Garlic

page 45
Oktoberfest Celebration
Bavarian-Style Soft Pretzels
page 72
Orange-Maple Cranberry Sauce

page 31
Pan-Seared Chicken Thighs with Beer and Grainy Mustard Sauce

FineCooking.com
Game Day
Beer-Battered Coconut Shrimp with Rmoulade Sauce
page 63
Pumpkin-Pecan Cake with Brown Sugar and Bourbon Glaze

page 78
German Potato Salad

FineCooking.com
Cranberry-Almond Shortbread Tart

page 80
Warm Cabbage Slaw with Bacon Dressing

FineCooking.com
Cider-Glazed Chicken Thighs

page 11
To drink: 2008 Heitz Wine Cellars Grignolino, Napa Valley, California
German Pear Pancake

page 61
Crispy Rosemary-Parmesan Potato Wedges

page 44
Weekend Brunch
Broiled Grapefruit
FineCooking.com
To drink: Weissbierbrauerei Hopf Helle Weisse (wheat beer), Miesbach, Germany
Apple and Escarole Salad with Blue Cheese and Hazelnuts

page 50
Leek and Goat Cheese Frittata

page 12
Chocolate-Pomegranate-Ginger Bark
page 18
Southern Buttermilk Biscuits

FineCooking.com
To drink: Docs Draft Original Hard Apple Cider, Warwick, New York
To drink: Ombra Prosecco, Veneto, Italy, topped off with a splash of Sorel liqueur (see Great Finds, page 28)
96
Photographs by Scott Phillips; drink recommendations by Patrick Watson at Smith & Vine, Brooklyn, New York
I n d e x t o A dv e r t i s e r s
Advertiser website Page Advertiser website Page
Cookware/ Bakeware
Bella Copper House on the Hill
www.bellacopper.com www.houseonthehill.net
Kitchen Design & Tableware

p. 97 p. 97 Velux America
www.dramaheights.com
p. 25
Gourmet Foods
BelGioioso Cheese Grana Padano Roth Cheese Wisconsin Cheese
www.belgioioso.com www.granapadano.it www.rothcheese.com www.eatwisconsincheese.com
Kitchen Tools & Appliances

Chefs Choice GelPro Illy Cafe Japanese Chefs Knife Kitchen & Company Kuhn Rikon Waterwise, Inc. Wolf Appliance
www.chefschoice.com www.gelpro.com www.illyusa.com/upfc912 www.japanesechefsknife.com www.kitchenandcompany.com www.kuhnrikon.com/fine www.waterwise.com www.wolfappliance.com
p. 15 p. 37 p. 99 p. 2
Ingredients
Bobs Red Mill Bulk Foods The King Arthur Flour Co. Spice Island
www.bobsredmill.com www.bulkfoods.com www.kingarthurflour.com www.spiceislands.com
p. 16 p. 97 p. 29 p. 5
p. 7 p. 15 p. 32 p. 16 p. 15 p. 7 p. 97 p. 100
Schools, Travel & Organizations

Craftsy.com
www.craftsy.com/finecooking
p. 84
cook s mar ket
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97
recipe index
Cover
Cranberry-Almond Shortbread Tart 80
Cider-Glazed Chicken Thighs 11 Classic Chicken Cacciatore 56
Maple-Roasted Carrots 46 Potato and Red Pepper Hash 44 Potato-Cheese Galette 44 Roasted Carrots with Orange-Mint Gremolata 46 Roasted Green Bean and Sweet Potato Salad 45 Roasted Green Beans with Cranberries, Walnuts, and Blue Cheese 45 Sauted Carrots with Pecans and Bacon 46 Slow-Sauted Carrots and Parsnips 46 Warm Brussels Sprout Slaw with Lemon and Hazelnuts 47
Appetizers
Arancini 89 Beer-Battered Coconut Shrimp with Rmoulade Sauce 63 Risotto 26
Seafood
Beer-Battered Coconut Shrimp with Rmoulade Sauce 63 Manhattan Clam Chowder 68 New England Clam Chowder 67 Pan-Seared Catfish with Creamy Greens 13 Rhode Island Clam Chowder 69 Sauted Shrimp and Pancetta with Cheese Grits 14
Salads
Apple and Escarole Salad with Blue Cheese and Hazelnuts 50 Pecan, Radicchio, and Asian Pear Salad 21
Soups
Asian Turkey Noodle Soup with Bok Choy 10 Clam Broth 66 Curried Parsnip and Apple Soup 51 Manhattan Clam Chowder 68 New England Clam Chowder 67 Rhode Island Clam Chowder 69
Pasta & Rice

Arancini 89 Penne with Sausage, Fennel, and Pecorino 14 Risotto 26
Condiments
Orange-Maple Cranberry Sauce 31
Eggs
Leek and Goat Cheese Frittata 12
Sweets & Snacks

Apple Upside-Down Cake 52 Bavarian-Style Soft Pretzels 72 Chocolate-Honey Ganache Layer Cake 83 Chocolate-Pomegranate-Ginger Bark 18 Cranberry-Almond Shortbread Tart 80 German Pear Pancake 61 Maple and Black Pepper Pecans 21 Maple-Walnut Tart 81 Pumpkin-Pecan Cake with Brown Sugar and Bourbon Glaze 78
Side Dishes
Braised Green Beans with Garlic and Lemon 45 Broccoli Twice-Baked Potatoes 44 Brussels Sprout Chips 47 Brussels Sprout Leaves with Apple, Pecans, and Cheddar 47 Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta and Pearl Onions 47 Carrot Salad with Lime-Cilantro Dressing 46 Crispy Rosemary-Parmesan Potato Wedges 44 Fluffy Mashed Potatoes 44 Ginger-Maple Roasted Brussels Sprouts 47 Green Beans with Almonds and Garlic 45 Green Beans with Tomatoes and Olives 45
Beef, Pork & Lamb

Beef Tenderloin with RoquefortPecan Butter 20 Black-Pepper-Crusted Beef Tenderloin with Chimichurri Sauce 60 Penne with Sausage, Fennel, and Pecorino 14 Pork Chops with Cranberry-Maple Pan Sauce 11 Skirt Steak with Mushrooms and Shallots 12 Southwestern Lamb Shanks 62
Vegetarian: May contain eggs and dairy ingredients Make ahead: Can be completely prepared ahead (may need reheating and a garnish to serve) Quick: Under 30 minutes
Chicken & Turkey

Asian Turkey Noodle Soup with Bok Choy 10 Bacon-Wrapped Smoked Turkey 40 Chicken Cutlets with Cacciatore Farro Salad and Red Pepper Aoli 56
98
fine coo k ing oct / no v 2 0 1 2
Roth Grand Cru.

A little slice of heaven.
Made only in a little sliver of
Wisconsin.
You can almost taste clover and prairie grasses. Fresh spring mornings. And water ltered through ancient limestone. This is where the deep, rich avor of Roth Grand Cru Gruyere got its start. Here. In Wisconsin. Where the perfect climate and ideal terrain met a few million years ago, to create the richest, most avorful Gruyere. Experience Roth Cheese. A taste like no other.
rothcheese.com
We b e l i eve i f i ts c r i s py yo u wa n t, i ts c r i s py yo u s h a l l have.
Control Without Compromise. Roasting poultry. Its very different from, say, baking breadsticks. So why do most ovens treat them as if theyre the same? Wolf dual convection ovens have 10 precision cooking modes. Each controls not only the ovens temperature but also the airflow. It even chooses the ideal direction from which to radiate heat. The Result Youre Aiming For, Precisely. Every dish you set out to cook has a quality that, to you, defines delicious. Wolf s precision
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Fine Cooking 10.11.2012

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20 Seasonal Side Dishes

Bake Now, Eat Later Make-Ahead

Hearty Clam Chowder

New England, Manhattan & Rhode Island

how to cook in cast iron

A Cooks Guide to Salt

OCT/NOV 2012 No.119 www.finecooking.com

2011 Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, Inc.

64 Stirring the Chowder Pot

76 Bake Now, Eat Later

Peeling apples for an Apple Upside-Down Cake, page52.

Just 30 minutes to dinner, start to finish.

What Were Cooking Now

d rinks What to drink with whats in  this issue.

g o shopping Our latest buys  for the kitchen and table.

22 The Science of Salt

30 N  ourishing Thanksgiving Traditions

The kitchens most popular seasoning and how it works.

24 The Reading List

New must-reads for food lovers.

33 The Entertainers Kitchen

fine cooking oct/nov 2012

{WHAT THE WORLD TASTES LIKE }

Drink This with That

When the chips are down

Cooking through the years

fine cooking oct/nov 2012

Boiling over is...OVER!

Sara Ezrin Larsen Melissa Robinson Michael Stoltz

Independent publishers since 1975 Founders, Paul & Jan Roman

THE #1 SWISS BRAND OF COOKWARE AND COOKS TOOLS

Visit kuhnrikon.com/fine or call 800-924-4699 for a catalog.

My favorite piece of kitchen equipment

buried with it.

My most recent kitchen purchase is

The most overrated food on the Thanksgiving table is the turkey.

My latest kitchen purchase was

 My latest food discovery is not so

much a discovery, but Im really into canning, curing, and jams.

The strangest thing I ever ate was

The three items always in my refrigera-

sheeps eyes served by a Saudi adviser to the king.

This fall, connect to FineCooking.com in more places than ever.

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Thanksgiving Menu Maker

Join the conversation about recipes and cooking.

asian turkey noodle soup with bok choy

1 Tbs. soy sauce; more for serving

pork chops with cranberry-maple pan sauce

cider-glazed chicken thighs

leek and goat cheese frittata

skirt steak with mushrooms and shallots

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Abby Simchak

pan-seared catfish with creamy greens

sauted shrimp and pancetta with cheese grits

3 cups lower-salt chicken broth

penne with sausage, fennel, and pecorino

12 oz. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

10 oz. dried penne

Artisan. Hand-made. Superior Quality.

Recipes and more at belgioioso.com

Discover a New World with Heirloom Grains

ONLINE SHOP FOR FINE JAPANESE BRANDS AT GREAT SAVING PRICES

Keep your Fine Cooking back issues looking brand new.

d rinks What to drink with whats in this issue.

g o shopping Our latest buys for the kitchen and table.

30 N ourishing Thanksgiving Traditions

My favorite piece of kitchen equipment

My most recent kitchen purchase is

The most overrated food on the Thanksgiving table is the turkey.

My latest kitchen purchase was

My latest food discovery is not so

The strangest thing I ever ate was

The three items always in my refrigera-

12 oz. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper