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Page 1 of 6 Copyright 2003 Jerry Goodwin Inc. - TackleUnderground.com

How To Make Hardbait Stencils Using Plastic astic Milk Cartons Published by Birdman For years companies involved in hardbait production have used tempered brass sheeting to spray their patterns onto their baits. I too used this method for a period of time but became frustrated when the brass continually scratched the underpaint and the brass would occasionally bend out of shape. I began looking for a softer, durable material for stenciling and came up with this relatively quick and easy method. I am currently still using stencils made 10 years ago and see no signs of having to replace any the older stencils. TOOLS NEEDED: Loctite Steel Putty, Lead, Lead Melter, Propane Torch, Hand Held Rivot Gun, 1/8"x1/8 Rivets, smooth sheets of plastic milk carton, and #4 Bulldog Clips. MAKING THE MOLD AND LEAD INGOT

To do this process correctly, you will need two to three baits. You are going to make a right and left side impression of your bait so either cut one bait into halves or use two baits with a line drawn down the center (submersion line). Using a clear coat, build up two coats on your bait so the impression will be slightly larger that the actual bait to be used. (You will have to become very good at making the same bait to the same dimensions or use factory/machine made baits. Fill the Loctite steel putty (about $28-a two part product-mix only what you will need) into two blister packs (or small rectangular containers). Place the steel putty into the blister packs, ensuring no air is trapped inside. Next lay your bait on its right side in one container and on its left side in one container. Allow to harden for 4-6 hours. (overnight is best)

Once hardened, you will need to remove the blister pack and the baits from the putty. This will take some time to ensure all the wood is out of the impressions. (Small chisels, course sand paper, even a torch Page 2 of 6 Copyright 2003 Jerry Goodwin Inc. - TackleUnderground.com

work well) Next pour hot lead into the mold and allow to cool.

MAKING THE STENCIL

Pop the ingots (two, left and right) out of the mold. I made a simple jig that allows me the raise and lower a platform with a cutout for the steel putty mold. You want a surface level with the top of the mold and an adjustable one is best as all blisters are not filled to the same height. Place the mold in the middle, lay a smooth sheet of plastic milk carton across the mold and heat with a propane torch. You just want to heat up the area directly over the impression. It will turn clear when hot enough. Now remove the heat, drop in the lead ingot and cover with a flat metal surface. (This will keep pressure on the inglot and keep the edges of the plastic from curling.) Allow to cool for 30 seconds.

Page 3 of 6 Copyright 2003 Jerry Goodwin Inc. - TackleUnderground.com

Remove the metal cover; it should look like this...

Remove the plastic, it should look like this

Take the right and left halves and at this stage it is easier to cut in your design using a dremel tool (be sure to cut away all the fuzzies), exacto knife, wood burning tool or anything you can think of. You'll need some practice here so have lots of plastic sheets ready. You'll also want to ensure your pattern on the right side lines up and matches the left side. Once your stencil is ready, take one of your baits and place it between the two plastic pieces. Take a Bulldog #4 butterfly clip and drill a 9/16" hole on all four corners. Now take the plastic stencils and clip the Bulldog #4 clip over the top of the two sheets. It very important here to adjust the stencils so that they line up perfectly so I place a spare bait body between the sheets to help line everything up. Then mark the plastic through the clips. (Tip-label each half of the clip with an "L" for left and an "R" for right.)

Page 4 of 6 Copyright 2003 Jerry Goodwin Inc. - TackleUnderground.com

Here's the fun part. You'll need to disassemble the clip. It takes some strength and practice. Drill out the newly marked plastic with the same 9/16" bit and insert the loaded rivet gun from behind the plastic and clip. Squeeze and set rivet. (To best of my knowledge, no one has found a way to glue polyethelene to anything so a rivet gun is needed.)

The three parts of the clip should now look like this.

Reassemble the three pieces and trim off any access plastic not needed. I always leave some excess at the bottom so I can squeeze the stencil tightly shut while painting.

Page 5 of 6 Copyright 2003 Jerry Goodwin Inc. - TackleUnderground.com

That's it, you did it. Multiple stencils can be made for the same bait for layering effects. Good Luck Birdman

Page 6 of 6 Copyright 2003 Jerry Goodwin Inc. - TackleUnderground.com