KAILASHMANASAROVARYATRA K.S.Ramakrishnan AtthefootofPatoala. IhadthegoodfortuneofundertakingtheKailashManasarovaryatrafrom13thJuneto1stJuly2010. Itwasindeedthemostgruelling,interestingabsorbingandcontemplativetourIhad.Atmyadvanced ageof82,ifIcouldcompletetheyatra,thewholecreditgoestomydaughtersRanjiniandNandiniand mysoninlawCol.RaviRamaswamiandothermembersofourgroupviz.Dr.Kumarandhiswife Shuba,andDr.SrinivasanandhiswifeVinita,whohadensuredthatmaximumcomfortisprovided withintheconstraintsofavailabilityandeverypossiblycomfortisprovided.TheencouragementIgot fromallthesepeoplehelpedmetogetthecourageandconfidencetosuccessfullycompletethetrip. Wewerefortunatetohavetwomedicalspecialistsaccompanyinguswhichmadeourtripmore comfortablewiththecomfortofmedicalaidavailableatanytime. i)ThebackgroundforourKailash/ManasarovarYatra Itwasduringwinterof2007thatIexpressedadesiretomaketheKailash/ManasarovaryatrawhenI amableandfit.Iwasapproaching79yearsofage.

MychildrenRanjini,Nandini,Hamsiniand RamnathsupportedthisideaandalsowantedtomakethetripinAugust2008.Ourfamilygroupitself wasaround10people.Accordingly,airlineticketswereboughtfortravelinAugusttoDelhiandfrom thereIndebohadarrangementsforthetourviaKatmanduthroughtheiragentsinNepalandTibet. HoweverinearlyJanuary,riotswerereportedinTibetagainsttheChineseoccupationandtheseriots wereindirectlyintendedtodisrupttheOlympicGamesplannedinBeijingduringsummerof2008.The ChineseAuthoritiesthenputvariousrestrictionsonIndianpilgrimstoKailash/Manasarovar.Becauseof theseuncertainties,wedecidedtocancelourplansfortheyatrain2008.Ofcourse,Iwasgreatly disappointed.In2008November,Icelebratedmy80thbirthdaywithsadabhishekamatCoimbatore. AllmychildrenattendedthereligiousfunctioninCoimbatore.Sincetheyhadalreadymadeatripto IndiafromUSA,anothertripforKailash/Manasarovarin2009wasoutofthequestionastheycould nottakevacationasecondtimewithinaspaceofeightmonths. ii)Preparation SinceIwaskeenonundertakingtheyatraduringmylifetimeassoonasIcould,Istartedona physicalfitnessregime.Dailybreathingexercises,afewsimpleyogasanasandaonehourwalkinthe morningandatleast30minuteswalkintheeveningwastheroutineinadditiontocontrolledfoodin take.Breakfastwasabowlofoatmealwithandabanana.LunchwasatypicalSouthIndianlunch comprisingrice,sambhar,rasam,vegetablesandcurds.Iusedtolimitthericetofourscoops.Iloved potatochipsandgenerallyhadahandfulforlunch.Eveningteawithabiteofsavourywasroutine. Nightmealwasgenerallylightoneortwodosas.Whenthedateswerefinalisedforourtrip,Iwas inDelhiwithmydaughterNandini.Foralmosttwomonthsbeforeourtrip,everymorningaround6 a.m.weusedtogototheforestnearKutubMinarandwalkbrisklyalongthetrailsforalmosttwoand halfhours.Beingthepeakofsummer,thiswasexhaustingbuthelpedconditionusforthetrip.

iii)Thedetailsofouryatra: MydaughterNandiniandsoninlawRavi,whorunIndeboTravels&ToursLtd.,NewDelhi,revived theproposaltoundertaketheKailash/Manasarovaryatrain2010withadeparturesetto15thJune fromLhasa.TheysuggestedthatweshouldseeTibet,itshistoricalandreligiouscentresbeforewe undertaketheKailashParikrama.Thiswillalsogiveenoughtimeforacclimatizationtothehighaltitudes. ThedateswerechosensuchthatwecompletetheparikramaonFullMoonDayandhaveourritual bathonPoornimawhenthedevasareassumedtodescendintoManasarovarforaritualbath!!Sowe plannedourparikramafor24th,25thand26thofJune.Sinceonlyfourfromthefamilycouldjointhis yatra,wehadspreadwordaround.TwoofourfriendsfromLosAngeles,Dr.Kumarandhiswife Shubaagreedtojointhetour.ThefamilydoctorofNandini/RavifromDelhiDr.Srinivasanandhiswife Vinitaalsoagreedtojointhegroup.SinceSrinivasanandVinitawantedtotravelbythetrainfrom BeijingtoLhasaarrangementswereaccordinglymadeforthem.Ravialsojoinedthemforthetrain journey.Becauseofvisaproblems,NandinialsoflewtoBeijingandthenontoLhasa.WhilstRanjini, KumarandShubaflewintoKatmandufromLosAngeles,IjoinedthemfromDelhion13thJune.

ThegroupwhichwenttoBeijinghadthegoodfortuneofseeingBeijing,theGreatWallofChinaand themostenjoyabletrainridefromBeijingtoLhasaenjoyingthepristinebeautyofthecountrysideand facingthechangingweatherpatternallthrough.Thetrainitselfisanengineeringachievementand providesforoxygenathighelevations.Althoughapantrycarwasavailable,novegetarianfoodwas served.Vinitabeingavegetarianfacedabigproblem.ThisgrouparrivedinLhasaon15thevening. TheyweregivenaceremonialreceptionatthestationbyourTibetanAgent.Nandiniwhohadarrived adayearlierwasproperlyestablishedattheKyichuHotelandhadaneasychangeovertotherarefied atmosphereandwastheretoreceiveusattheHotel. 13thJuneThreeofushadarrivedon13thatKatmandu.ForUScitizens,visaisproviddedonarrival forperiodsof15days,onemonthetc.Dependingonthenumberofdayswithinwhichyouplantobe backinKatmanduonthereturntrip,youshouldtakeyourvisa.Ontheeveningof13th,wewere shownaroundtheDarbarPlacewheretheNepalKingusedtogiveaudiencetohispeople.Thentothe residenceoftheeternalKumari.WewerefortunatetohavedarshanofKumari.Wethenproceeded totheSwayambunathPagodaontopofahill.Onehastoclimbquiteanumberofstepstoreachthe top.Turnedtheprayerwheels,haddarshanofBhagwanBuddha.Alsoapanoramicviewofthecity ofKatmandu.WestayedattheEverestHotel,acomfortablefivestarhotel.TheNepaliAgenttook ourpassportsawayforobtainingtheTibetanpilgrimpermitfromtheChineseEmbassythenext morning.Katmanduhasbecomesocongested.Roadsandstreetsareyettobedeveloped.Thereis aretrafficjamsallaroundsincethetraffichasoutgrownthecity.Totapthetouristpotential,alothasto bedonetoimprovefacilities.

14thJuneSinceitwasMonday,largecrowdswereexpectedatPasupathinathTemple.Soweleft early.Ourlocalagenthadarrangedforsomebodytotakeusaround.Thecrowdwastoomuch.We finallyarrangedtogetanabhishekamandpoojadonetooneoftheLingasoutsidethemaintempleand throughtheinfluenceofthelocalpriest,couldenterthemaintempletohaveaglimpseofthe PasupathinathlingatheonlylingawiththeroopaofShivaonallsides.Thepriestsdoingthepoojain theinnersanctumsanctorumaredeputedbytheShankaracharyaofSringeriMutt.Theylookedso thejaswisandattractivethatoneautomaticallydevelopsfaithinthem.Wethenwenttothelingawiththe fifthfaceoutsidethemaintemplewhereNepalibrahminpriestsweredoingabhishekamandpooja. Herewedidabhishekamandpooja.Somehow,thiscommercialisationofworshipleftabad impressionbutthenthatiswhathappenswhentherearelargecrowdsofworshippers.Welatervisited BodnathPagoda,agiganticstructure100metresindiameter,100feethigh.Veryimpressive.Saw monksdoingpaintings.AndfinallyitwastoPantaltobuysomemusicalinstruments. 15thJuneSincewewantedwindowseatsforobservingtheHimalayas,weleftfortheAirportearly morningtocatchourLhasaflight.WewerethefirstintheQueue.Assoonasthecounteropened,got checkedin,buttheygaveusonlytwowindowseats.RanjiniandShubaIcouldoccupyoneeachand clickedanumberofphotographs,thecrowningglorybeingthatofMt.Everest.Lhasaairportis adjoiningtheBrahmaputravalley.Atrickyairportforapproachandlandinginviewofhighmountains allaround.ItisatributetotheChinesethattheycouldprovideawellequippedairportwithnosein parkinghavinganumberofgates.Itseemstheyhaveovertendeparturesandarrivalsperdayfrom/to Lhasa.Aswedisembarkedandstartedwalkingtowardsimmigration,onecouldfeeltherarefied atmosphereLhasaelevationaround11000feetIwasfeelingunsteadyonmyfeet.Cleared immigrationandcustomsandourTibetanAgentMr.Tsirierringwastheretogiveusaceremonious welcome.TheAirportisalmost30kmsawayfromthecity.TheChinesehavemadeatunnell2.8kms longthroughsomemountainstoreducethedistancetotown.Theroadispucca.Thecityhadwelllaid outroadsandappearedclean.WestayedatKyichuHotelonthemainroadinthecity.Iunderstand thiswasamansionbelongingtoaMonkconvertedintoahotel.Thehotelwascomfortablewithlarge roomsandattachedbathrooms.Wewereadvisedtodrinkasmuchwateraspossibleandtotake completerest.ByeveningDr.Srinivasan,hiswifeVinitaandRaviwhocametoLhasafromBeijingby trainhadcomeandcheckedintothehotel.Accordingtothemtheirtrainjourneyalsowasmemorable andchangeinscenariowasawesome,tobeseentobebelieved.Thetrainhadautomaticsupplyof oxygenlikeinpressurizedaircraft.

Himalayasfromtheflight. 16thJuneWewentsightseeingfirsttotheJokhangtempleinthecityquiteclosetoourhotel.This templeisthemostsacredtempleinTibet.BhagwanBuddhaiscalledSakyaMuniThereisalsoa statueofMaitreya,thefutureBuddhainthesanctumsanctorum.Thereisalwaysabigcrowdof worshippers.Attheentranceisaplacewhereincenseisoffered.Andwecanseepilgrimsprostrating infrontofthetemple.Onenquiry,weunderstandthattheyareallprayingforthesafetyandgoodhealth

oftheDalaiLamawhoisstillhighlyrespectedandloved.Wentinsidethetemple,weprostratedinfront ofthedeities.Offeringyakbutterlampsinsideisacommonpractice.Sinceyakbutterleaveslotof smoke,nowadays,theyusevegetableoilforsuchlamps.Becauseoffear,nobodywantstotalktoyou freelyastheyareafraidofChinesespies.

AncientJokhangTemple,Lhasa SincewehadpermissiontovisitthePaotoalaPalaceat1201.30p.m.,wewentthere.Thispalaceis thesummerresidenceoftheDalaiLama.Itisonahill400feethigh.Onehastoclimbmorethan250 stepstoreachthetopofthePalace.Theviewofthecityfromthetopispanoramic.Climbingtothe topwasstrenuousandeverybodywasgaspingforbreath,especiallyme.Foreverytensteps,Ihadto wait,restandthenonlyproceed.Dr.Kumarwasalwaysclosebytohelpandencouragemeduringthis climb.Somehow,Icouldalsoreachthetop.Asisthecustom,devoteeslightmanybutterlampsatthe variousaltarsofthepalaceandalsoleavecurrencynotesasoffering.Wesawthedarbarhallofthe DalaiLama,theroomwherehestayedasastudent,wherehestudiedthescriptures,wherehe worshipped.Theseplacesarepreserved.WhatwasstrikingwaseveninTibetanBuddhism,theyhave Mahakala,Mahakali,symbolslikeConch,Chakra,Lotus,etc.ManysimilaritieswithHinduism.The climbuptothepalacewasdefinitelyworthwhileaswecouldseealltheseimportantaspectsof Buddhismandhowtheyhavepreservedthem.

AtthefootofPotala. Afterthisexhaustivetrip,wereturnedtothehotel.Sincethedaywasalsowarm,wedecidedtotake restfortheremainingpartoftheday.ThoughIstayedbehind,mostwentouttothebazaarnearthe hotelforshopping.Duringthenight,Ranjinifeltbreathlessandsaidsheisgettingchoked.IhadDr. Kumarcomeandcheck.Sincehotelcarriedemergencyoxygencans,Dr.Kumarhelpedadministerthe oxygen.Sincetheflowwasnotsatisfactory,Ravicalledourlocalagenttocomeandhelpadmitherto thehospital.Aftershewasgivenoxygenatthehospitalforabouttwohours,shecamebacktonormal andwebroughtherbacktotheHotel.Shewasadvisedcompleteresttogetherbreathingbackto normalwiththeatmosphericoxygen.ArisingoutofthisincidentDr.Kumarwantedallinthegroupto takeDiamoxcapsulesonceaday.AsamatteroffactDr.Srinivasanhadrecommendedthistousin Delhithatthreedaysbeforethetour,allshouldtakeDiamox. 17thJuneInthemorningRaviwentforakoraofPotalaPalaceandhadinterestingmeetingswitha DoctorofTibetanMedicineandseveraldevoutTibetanswhoperformthekoraasdailyritual.After breakfastfewofuswenttovisittheDrepungMonastery.IstayedbehindintheHotelroomasthevisit toPotalahadtakenaheavytollofmyenergy.

 Intheafternoon,wewenttoseetheSeraMonastrywheretheyoungstudentlamasholdanopen discussionofthesubjectstheyarelearning.Itwasentertainingtoseethediscussionsandthewaythey areheld.OfcourseeverythingwasinTibetan,sowecouldnotunderstandthediscussionsbutthe vigourwithwhichtheywerediscussingwasadelighttowatch.WecouldnotseetheDrepungrestof theMonastery,asbythetimewewatchedthediscussionsbetweenthemonksatSera,themonasteries wereclosedforpublicviewing.WealsocancelledavisittoNorbulinkaMonastery.

AttheSeraMonastry. Intheevening,ouragenthadarrangedforalectureattheTibetanSchoolofMedicineonthesystemof medicinefollowedbyTibetansfromancienttimes.TheirsissimilartoayurvedaAlldiseasesare categorisedasBlue,YellowandWhite.Bluepertainstonervousproblems,oldage,yellow representingarthritis,bronchialproblems,etc.andwhitegynaecology,childrensdiseases,etc.In Tibetanmedicinealsodiagnosisisdonebylookingattheperson,touchingtheperson,smellingthe personanddiscussingproblemswiththeperson.Themedicaltreatmentdependsuponageofthe patient,regionfromwhichhe/sheiscoming,familyhistory,foodhabits,natureofjobdone,etc. Astrologyisusedtodeterminethecorrectdateforcommencementoftreatment.Thelecturewasvery interesting.BythetimewereturnedfromthelecturesalltheladiesincludingRanjinihadgoneoutfor shopping!!!

ShoppingatBarkhor,Lhasa. CollegeofTibetanMedicine 18thJuneWecommencedouryatra.WewereloadedinthreeToyotaLandcruiserjeepsandour baggage,tents,cookingvesselsandprovisionsinatruck.WeproceededtoShigatsetown(elevation 12600ft)whichistheseatofthePanchenLama.TherearetworoadstoShigatse.Onetakesto KampaLaPassat15724feetandTurquoiseLakecovering372sq.miles.Theotherroadskipsthis andtakesyoudirecttoShigatse.Bothroadsarewithblacktopandverycomfortable.SinceRaviwas concernedthatImaynotstandthesuddenexposuretoahighaltitude,myself,Ranjini,andRavitook thedirectpath.OtherscameviatheKampaLaPass.Accordingtothem,thepassandthelakewere beautifulandtheyenjoyedthescenery.WewereluckythatonthisdaythePanchenLamawas returningfromBeijingtohisheadquartersinShigatseandcouldseehisentourageofadozencarsand jeepspassingby.Allothervehicleswereaskedtostopoversothatthisentouragecanpasswithoutlet orhindrance!!

 TurquoiseLake. Intheafternoon,wevisitedtheTashilumpoMonastryoneofthesixgreatGelugpainstitutions.This monastrywasbuiltbythefirstDalaiLama.ThisGompaistheofficialseatofthePanchenLama,the secondhighestpositioninTibetanBuddhismaftertheDalaiLama.Thismonastrycanhousemorethan 4000monks.Theentirecomplexissurroundedbyhighwalls.Themainhighlightofthemonastryisa fivestoreytemplehousingafantastic26metrecoppergoldplatedstatueofMaitreyaBuddha,known asthefutureBuddhaandthetombofthe4thPanchenLamacontainingmassesofjewelsandgold.

TashilupmoMonastry. DalaiLamaisthetopspiritualleaderofTibetanBuddhism.DalaiLamameaningtheLamawiththe ultimatewisdom.PanchenLamaistheultimateresearcherandscholar.Conflictsalwaysexisted betweentheDalaiLamaandthePanchenLama.InShigatse,atoneoftheschoolsoriginallyestablished bythefirstDalaiLama,welearntthattherewasaLadyLamawhowasalsoateacherforthefirstDalai Lama. LikeZorashtrians,TibetanBuddhistsalsofeedtheirdeadtovultures.Tibetanscutthedeadbodiesin smallpieces,mixitwithbarleyattaandthenfeedthemtovulturesonanauspiciousdayamidstchanting ofhymns.ThepeoplewhocutandpreparethebodiesarethelowestclassinTibetansociety.Other lowclassesarebutchers,carpentersandpeoplewhotradeinanimals.

YangsteMonastery. 19thJuneAfteracomfortablestayinaShigatseManasarovarhotelon18thatShigatse,weleftfor Saga,andsostartedouragonisingmudroadjourneys.OurdestinationwasSaga(elevation15026ft.) 424kms.away.Therewasnoroad.Itwasallmudtrackwithupsanddownsalongslopesof mountains.Itwasalongdrive.AswewerekeenonvisitingavillagetoseehowTibetanslive,we stoppedatoneofthevillages.Wenttoafarmershouse.Hehasasolarheaterforwarmingwater whichhesometimesusesforcookingtoo.Otherwisetheyuseyakdungdriedcakesforfirewood. Mainfoodisbarley,vegetablesandyakmeat.Theyalsouseyakcheeseandbutter.Thehouseis fairlyclean.Theyappeartobepeoplewhoareeasilysatisfiedwithsmallmercies.Mostofthem possesssmallpieceoflandwhichtheycultivate.Theyalsohavesomecows,yaksandgoatsfortheir domesticneedsofmilk,etc.Sinceagriculturallandislimited,mostTibetansarenomadsandtheir livelihoodisfromgrazingcattle,yaks,sheepandgoat.TheyhavegreatrespectfortheDalaiLamaand worshiphim.TheyevenaskedusifwehaveaphotographofhisholinesstheDalaiLama.Ifyou happentogoonthisyatra,docarryafewcopiesofHisHolinesspictures.TheTibetansatlargewill

greatlyappreciatethisgesture.

Dryingyakscheese. OntheroadtoSaga. Apartfromtherarefiedair,wehadtofacethedustraisedbyvehicles.WereachedSagaexhausted andcheckedintoahotel.Thishotelcanproviderunningwateronlyafter8p.m.fortwohours. Similarly,waterwillbeavailableinthebathroomsonlyafter7a.m.WewenttoaChineseRestaurant andhadourdinner.Thoughtherestaurantwasabout100yardsaway,itwasastruggletowalkeven thisshortdistanceduetotherarefiedair(wewerenowover15000feet).Fortunately,therestaurant couldmakevegetarianfood!!!Foodwastasty.Theymakemodaks,callitmomoswithbarleyflour stuffedinsidewithcabbage.Theirfingerchipswerespicyandcrisp. 20thJuneDrovetoTsamda(elevation11975feet)drivingthroughParyang(elev.15583ft.)tovisit theruinsofGugekingdomthroughunfinishedroads,takingdetoursovermudtracksandacrossrivers. Byeveningwearrivedatthecampsiteanhoursjourney(25kms)beyondParayang.TheSupplies truckhadalreadyerectedthetentsonthiscoldwindytractbythestream.Thecampwascomfortable buttoocold.Campsareusuallysetupclosetoriverbankssothatwaterwillbeavailableforcooking anddrinking.Themostdifficultpartofcampingisthatoneliesdownontheground.Fromthisposition, togetup,crawloutofthetentfornaturescallisanordeal.Oneshouldslowlygetupfromthesitting positionasotherwiseyouwillfeelvertigo.Everyeffortinvolvesalotofbreathlessness.Afterevery movement,allowtimetoregainyourcomposure.Suddenmovementscanresultinyourfacingablack out!!! WelcomedrinkatParayang,firstcamp. 21stJuneWebeganourjourneyfollowingbreakfastanddrovepastthedevilslakeandoverdusty roads,toreachapromontoryfromwherewegotourfirstsightingoftheManasarovarLakeaswellas theHolyMt.Kailash.AfterprostratingweproceededtoTirthapuriHotSpringswherewecampedfor thenight. FirstsightofHolyMount.Kailash. 22ndJuneFollowingearlybreakfastandarrangingforthesuppliestrucktoproceedtoDarchenwe resumedourjourney,thistimetoTsamdaintheancientGugekingdom.Verylongdrivefollowed throughmuddyroads,alongsteepslopes,climbinganddescendingthroughanumberofmountains.The ridewasveryroughoverunchartedterritorywithnolandmarks.Iwonderhowthesedriverswereable

totakeusthroughwithnoGPSorlandmarks.InTsamdawecouldlocateahotelcalledtheBeiwhich wasoriginallyintendedforMilitaryOfficersthereisaMilitarygarrisonatthisplace.Westayedin thishotelwhichtookawayourexhaustion.ThisplaceisquiteclosetotheIndianborderandRavitold usthathisfatherwaspostedhereclosebyattheIndianoutpost.Thetotaldistancetravelledonthisday wasover500kms.WeexploredTolling,thecapitalofTsamda.VisitedtheruinsoftheGugekingdom andthemonasteryonahill.Veryimpressivepaintings.StayattheHotelwasrefreshing.Wewenttothe localBuddhisttempledesecratedduringtheculturalrevolutionbeingrebuiltandSutlejriverflowing nearby. AtTsmada. 23rdJuneOurnextstopwasDarchen(15010ft.),adistanceof300kms.Ourfirstglimpseofthe HolyMountainandManasarovarwaswhenwewereapproachingDarchen.Againmudroads,hillsand valleys,toughride.Wecouldlocateanewguesthousewewerethefirstoccupantsofthesame.The toiletsarecommonatadistancefromtherooms.Sincetheplacewasnew,thisdidnotimposeany problem.Ourcookandhelpersweretheretoprovideuswithdinnerandteaandbreakfastnext morning.Sincetheparikramawastostartthenextday,couldnotsleep. 24thJuneAfterbreakfastconsistingofbarleyporridgeandtoast,weproceededtothestartingpoint oftheparikrama(TibetanscallittheKora)around10a.m.Wehadtogetouryaksfortakingcamping materialsandcookingvesselsandprovisionsforourfirstcamp.Alsoitwasdecidedthatwewillhire fourhorsesforwhoeverfindstheneedforthesameduringyatra.Sincearrangementsfortheseareto bemadewiththeTibetanAuthoritiesandthehorseownershadnotarrived,weleftthistoourAgentto arrangeandcommencedourpadayatra.Whatsurprisedmewastherewasnolaidoutpath,nofoot marksordefinedpathlaidoutfortheyatra.Likesheep,onefollowedthegroupgoingahead.Thepath wasstrewnwithstones.Nogrowthofgrassorshrubs.Onehadtotrudgealongveryroughground, climbinganddescendingmountains.Toaddtotheproblemwastherarefiedair.Onegotexhausted afterwalkinghardlyhundredyards.Chantingmantraswasdifficultasitrequiredexertion.Atthemost onecouldchantOMNamasivaya.

Day1ofKailashParikrama. Mostlyallchantingshadtobeinonesmind.Ihadtostopconstantlyfortakingadeepbreath.Ifound othersfromourgroupalsohadsimilarproblems.Wewouldhavewalkedabout5kms.whenthe horsesarrived.IoptedforahorseimmediatelyasIfoundIcannotwalkanddotheparikrama.Shuba andVinitaandaftersometimeSrinivasanalsodecidedtousehorses.ThatleftRavi,Nandini,Kumar andRanjinitofollowusonfoot.Toaddtoourproblem,itstartedsnowingalightsnoworsleet,soit wasbitingcold.Thewindwasalsostrong.andtheobstaclesonthepathfartoomanybigboulders, smallgapsthroughwhichthehorseshavetomanoeuvre.Everytimethehorseclimbsasteepslope,one shouldputallhisweightforwardandwhendescendingbackward.Itwasscaryandonehadtotellthe horsemantoholdthereignscloseandwalkalongwiththehorseslowly.Halfway,westoppedatoneof

theTeaHousestops..Hadhotgreenteaandateourpackedlunchconsistingofananandcheese.I wonderhowwecouldtrudgealongtherough,unevenandtreacherouspathfor21kms.andreachour campsiteatDrhiraphuk.(elevation17716ft.).Youcanimaginewhattheplightofthewalkerswould havebeen.Duringthisday,wecouldseeMt.Kailashonlyinpatchesasitwascloudyand raining/snowingoffandon.ItwasalmostSunsetwhenwereachedthecampsitenearariverbank.As soonasourdinnerwasreadyconsistingofDal,chavalandsubzi,wehadourdinnerandwenttosleep. 25thJuneWindswerestrongandtherewaslightprecipitationintheformofsnow.Itwasbitingcold. Theairwasfurtherthinnerduetothehigherelevation.BecauseIhadtogetupanumberoftimesinthe night,Ihardlyslept.Butthenmostofuscouldnotbecauseoftheanxietyofthetoughclimbaheadinon theseconddayoftheparikrama.MydaughterNandinibroughtmehotwatertobrushmyteethand washmyface.Shealsogotmeahotcupoftea.Itwasanefforttogouptothetoilettent,but somehowIdidit.Gotready.Wenttothediningtentandhadbreakfastofkanjiandbreadand biscuits.OnourpersuasionbothKumarandRanjinihiredhorsesfortherideuptoDrolmaPass (19800feet).Thiswasindeedadifficultridethroughbouldersandslushandasteepclimb.We somehowreachedtheDrolmaPass(elevation19800feet).NandiniandRaviwalkedallthewayupto theDrolmaPass.Wewereaskedtodismountourhorsesandtowalkdownhill,adistanceof8kms.to thefoothillsasthehorsemensaidtheirhorsescannotcomedownwithaloadasthereiseverylikelihood oftheirtrippingandbreakingtheirlegs.Wehadourlunchconsistingofrotisandcheesegulpedwith greentea.Itwassnowinganditwasmightycold.Theairwasverythinandbreathingwasdifficult,let alonewalking.ThedownwardpathfromDrolmaPasswasasthoughamountainhasbeenblasted scatteringbigbouldersallover.Literallyonehadtodancethroughtheseboulders.Everystepwasan agony,breathlessness,littlestrengthtomoveforward.Ontopofit,onehadtogivewayforhorsesand yakswhoalsofollowthesameroute.GauriKundliestotherightofthisdescendingpath,downafew thousandfeetbelow.Thewaterlookedbluishandsomeenterprisingyoungpeopleweregoingdownto fetchthirthfromthere!!IwasliterallyledbyourguideandanotherhelperduringthisdescentasIwas findingdifficultytokeepmovingandbesteady.Whenwewerealmostnearthefoothills,myhorseman foundmestrugglingtowalkamongstthesebouldersandcameupandcarriedmeonhisbackforthe last100yards.Itamazesmehoweverybodyelsecouldwalkthistreacherouspath.Weonceagain mountedourhorsesandaftertraversinganotherfourkms.reachedourbasecampatZuthulpuk (elevation17211ft.).Ourcampwasbesideariverbank.Therewasahillononesidewhichreduced thewindspeedatthecampsite.Weweretotallyexhausted.OurNepalicookpreparedsomehot foodrice,Dalandvegetableswithpappadandpickles.Thiswaslikeamrut.Wehadagoodfilland hitthebedandhadafairlygoodsleep.Thetotaldistancetravelledontheseconddaywas16kms.

Resting.

ClosetoDrolmaPass.

26thJuneThefinaldayofouryatraParikrama.Itwaspournamiday.Westartedasusualaround9 a.m.afterbreakfast.Thefirstpartofourlegwasonlevelterrainbutundefinedareawithloosestones andmud.ItwasonthisdaywemetafewTibetansdoingtheKorabyprostratingalltheway.They havespecialkneepadsandbreastpadsandhandpads.Itseemstheytakemorethanamonthto completetheKora.Verydevotedallthetimechantinghymns.OnallthethreedaysIusedtodomy nityapoojagenerallyinmymindGanapathiAtharvasheersham,Rudram,chamakamandPurusha Sooktamfollowedbymrutyunjayajapam.OfcourseGayatrijapamwheneverIcouldandOm Namasivaya.Itisonlythesethatcouldhaveenabledmetocompletetheyatra.Aftercovering5kms. thehorsemendisembarkedusatthefootofamountainwhichhadtobecrossedsayingthattheycannot maketheirhorsesclimbamountainonthewaywhichhadtobecrossed.Perforce,wehadtogetdown andstartclimbingandwalking.Formeitwasanordeal.Anywaysomehowmanagedtoreachthetop mostpointonthistracktheycallitapass.Ravihadarrangedforamemberoftheteamtotieaflag alongtheflatgpostateachplace.Sincethiswasthelastsuchhighpoint,Iwasaskedtotiethis.Very satisfying.Itwasverywarm.Wehadtowalkanotherfivekmstoreachourbasewhereourvehicles werewaitingtotakeustoManasarovar.

Campsitegettingdismantled.Day3Parikrama. Itwasquitewarmbuttherewasabreeze1520K.Itwasaround4p.m.wedecidedtogoandhave abathinManasarovar.Initially,wethoughwewillputatoilettentonthebankssothatafterourdipwe canrushtothishutforchangeofclothesbutunfortunately,windsweregettingstrongerandwecould notputatentforclotheschange.Firstwefourmenenteredthewater.Ontopthewaterwaswarmbut coldatthebottom.Wewadedinsidethetankforalmostafurlongbutthewaterwasstillonlyknee deep.Wedidnotwishtotakefurtherchances.Wesatdownandprostratedandthushadaholydip. Rushedtotheshore.MydaughterswerereadywithatowelandchangeofclotheswhichIdidquickly, lestaIlcatchacold.Everybodywasmoreconcernedwithmywelfarebeingtheseniormostperson. WecollectedtheerthamfromManasarovarandleftforourcampsitewhichwasakilometreaway. Afterputtingsacredashes,Ididdevarushipithrutharpanam.Everybodytouchingmeduring tharpanamfelttheyalsowillbebenefited!!!Ihadbroughtmypoojavigrahasandvilvamandakshathai. Ithenperformedrudrabhishekam,poojaandaarti.Wewereallwellsatisfiedthattheyatrawasduly completedandwehadtheblessingsofParvathiParameswara.

PujaafterbathintheManasarovar. WethenhadasumptuousdinnerandwenttosleepwithaheartfullofthankstotheAlmightyforour successfulyatra. OnethingtonoteisthattheparikramapathisnotalongthebaseofMt.Kailashbutfarremovedfromit. Whenwedotheparikrama,onlyattimesMt.Kailashisvisibleprovidedweareluckyandhavinggood weatherwithnocloudcover.Alsothereisnochanceoftakingabathinthemorningwhenwedothe

parikramaorwheneverwestayincamps.Itisalwaysaspongebath.Whatmattersisthemind.Also thereisnotempleatKailashorManasarovar.Mt.KailashinLingaroopaisParvathi/Parameswaraand weprostratetoTHEM. 27thJuneLeftManasarovarbrightsunnydayalongthesamedirtroadbywhichwehadcometo acampalongtheBrahmaputraaftercrossingParyangtown.Nothingspecial.Weallwerelooking forwardtotheEverestbasecamp. 28thJuneWedrovedowntoSaga,Stayedatthesamehotelasbefore.Hadourdinneratthe ChineseRestaurant.

DinneratChineserestaurantnearhotel. 29thJuneAfterbreakfastatanotherChineseRestaurantKanjivellamriceporridge!!and momos.LeftforRongphutheEverestbasecamp.Halfway,wehaltednearariverbedasRavi suggestedthatwerelaxabit.IwasfeelingtiredandremainedinthevehiclebutRavisuggestedthatI comeoutandfreshenup.Iwenttotheriverbank,bentdownfeltthefreezingwaterandtouchedmy face.AsIwasgettingup,IfeltuneasyandgiddyandshoutedtoRaviforhelp.ThatisallIremember. ItseemsIpassedoutandfell.FortunatelyRavicaughtmefromhittingtherocks.AfterKumargave resuscitation,Irevivedandaskedthosesurroundingmewhathappened!!!Sincemyproblemwas basicallyduetothelackofoxygen,thedoctorsadvisedthatIshouldgotoalowerlevelassoonas possibleandthatIamnotfittoclimbtothebasecampof Everestwhichisatanelevationof16700feet.SooneoftheLandmastersalongwithRaviandme drovedowntoZangmu(elevation7546feet)whichisclosetoKatmandu.Theothersleftforthe Everestbasecamp.WearrivedatZangmuintheevening.Imaginefromacolddesertwithoutany vegetation,themomentwewereclosetoZangmu,thehillshadvegetationandasweclosedin,thick forestsandgreenery.Thevalleywascoveredwithcloudsanditwasraining!!Mybreathlessness disappearedandIwasgettingbacktonormal.WehadanicehotmealatoneoftheTibetan restaurantsservingNepalifoodofrice,Dalandvegetables.Hadasumptuousmealandwenttothe hotelforacompleterestimaginethepleasureofsleepingonacotwithamattress!! 30thJuneHadbreakfastatthehotelRiceKanji,breadandbutterandcoffee.Wethenwentfora walktosurveythetown.Sincethisisthelasttownwhereprovisionscanbeboughtbeforeleavingto SagatocommencetheKailash/Manasarovarparikrama,thereweremanyshopssellingrequirements. ThecrowdweregenerallyIndianpilgrims.Byafternoon,theothermembersofourgroupcameafter visitingtheEverestbasecamp.ItseemstheyhadawonderfulviewofMt.Everestandhadenjoyedthe trip.Aftertheyhadcheckedinandfreshenedup,weallwentoutandhaddinnerataTibetan Restaurant.Foodwasgood.Theladiestriedtodosomeshopping.Wereturnedtothehotelfora welldeservedrest.AttheRestaurant,wemetanothergroup,oneofwhomhappenedtobeafriendof ShubaandKumar.Itseemstheyallreturnedwithoutcompletingtheparikramaastheyfeltitwastoo difficult.TheyalsowerehuddledtogethersixorseventoaroominSaga,sohadnoproperrest.Poor

pilgrims.

Mt.Everest.Sunsettime. 1stJulyGotupearlyaswewantedtobethefirsttocrossChinesecustoms.Wereachedthe freedombridgedividingChinafromNepal.Hadtowaittill10a.m.fortheCustomstoopenthedoors. ThankstoourAgent,wecouldclearImmigrationandcustomsveryquicklyandwalkedoverthebridge toNepaleseterritory.HadourImmigrationcheck.OurNepaleseAgentMr.AnilAgarwalhadsent vehiclestopickusup.Wedrovestraightdowntohishouseforlunch.Mr.Agarwalandhiswifewere veryhospitableandservedusaverytastyIndianvegetarianmeal.Wereallyenjoyedthefood,thanked themprofuselyandleftfortheAirport.Wecheckedinasagroupandsogottheadvantageofgroup bookingsforbaggage.Managedtocheckinallourbags.ReachedDelhi.Indebocarswerewaitingto takeushome.

Nepalacrosstheriver.

IndeboteamgettingreadytoleavefortheNepalborderalongwithdriversandguide. Visitingtoomanymonasteriesinonetripmakesyouloseinterest.Perhapswecouldhaveavoidedthe triptoTsamdatoseetheGugekingdomruins.Wecouldhavesavedthreedaysfromourschedule. iv)TIBETitshistorical,social,economic,religiousandpoliticalhistory:: Tofullyappreciatethevarioussocioeconomicpoliticalenvironmentofthetour,itisessentialto understandTibetandthevariousproblemsthatcountryisfacing. Tibethasbeenanindependentcountryhavingauniquehistory.Itisavastcountrysparselypopulated. Havinganaverageelevationof15000feet,itisconsideredastheroofoftheworld.Itisonlybecause oftheanticycloneintheTibetanplateauthatweinIndiaareblessedwiththemonsoondepressionsand distributionofrainfallinourcountry.ThecultureandreligionofTibetwasanechoofthespreadof BuddhismtothosepartsbythedirectdisciplesofthegreatGautamaBuddha.Tibethaseversince maintainedverystrongrelationshipswithIndia.IndiahasalwaysprovidedasylumtotheDalaiLama wheneverhisfreedomisatstakeascanbeseenfromthefactthatthe6thDalaiLamafledtoIndiawhen therewasanuprisingagainsthim.SoalsothepresentDalaiLama,the13thwhentheChineseforcibly tookoverTibetin1955. TousHindus,TibetisveryimportantinasmuchasMt.MeruorMt.KailashhappenstobeinTibet,so alsothesacredManasarovarLake.AsmuchasforeveryMuslim,avisittoMeccaisalifefulfilling

dream,asmuchasforeveryChristian,avisittoJerusalemismostsacred,foreveryHinduaparikrama ofMt.KailashandabathinManasarovar,isconsideredablissveryrarelyachieved.Fortherearefar toomanyobstaclestofaceforfulfillmentofthisdream. Tounderstandthedifficultiesofmakingthisyatra,onehastounderstandthemagnitudeoftheproblems onehastoface.AnunderstandingofthecountryinwhichMt.Kailash/Manasarovarislocated,its socioeconomic,politicalandhistoricproblemsarenecessary. Tibetcoversaverylargearea.Chinesehavealwaysclaimedsuzeranityoverthisarea.Withthe establishmentofthePeoplesRepublicChina,theirtroopsmarchedoverTibetandoccupiedthe country.TherewashardlyanyresistanceasthepeacelovingpeopleofTibetneverthoughtsucha deliberateaggressionwilltakeplace.Chinahadtheirowndesigns.TheareaofTibetisequaltoone thirdthelandmassofChina.WhiletheeasternpartsofTibetarefertile,theTibetanhighlandswere sparselypopulatedbuthaduntappedmineraldeposits.ThisregioncomesundertheTibetAutonomous RegionheadedforbyaTibetanwithaChineseHeadalsosupervisingtheregion. TheChinesesetupmilitarygarrisonsalloverTibetespeciallyintheregionsadjoiningNepalandIndia andstrengthenedtheirtightholdonallregionsofTibet.Allpolicestationsaremannedbyatleastafew Chinesesoldiers.Inordertotapthemineralresourcesofthecountry,theChinesehavestarted buildingextensiveroadnetworkalongthelengthandbreadthofthecountry.However,onlydirtroads whichfollowtheslopesofmountainsarenowavailablewhichraisescloudsofdust.Thepathis dangerousandoneislefttothemercyofthedriversandthereliabilityoftheToyotaLandcruiser!!Itis reallyawonderhowthesedriversareabletonavigatethroughtheseroadswithoutGPSorotherland marks.Theentirehorizonlooksbarren.Itisacolddesertwithhighmountainsandvalleysandstrong surfacewinds.TocallTibetaplateauisamisnomer.Thereisnoflatlandavailableastheentire countryisfullofhills,mountains,upsanddownsandbythetimeonetravelshundredsofkilometreson thesedirtroadswiththemountainpasses,halfyourlimbsarealmostbrokenandoneisexhausted, LhasaisconnectedtomainlandChinabyarailwaylinewhichisamasterpieceinengineering technology.TheChinesearecontemplatingconnectingLhasatoKathmandubyarailwaylineinthenot sodistantfuture.TheChinesehavestartedinvestinglargeamountsofmoneyininfrastructure developmentofroadsandrailwaylinestoenableeasyaccesstoallpartsofTibet. ReligionTibetansareveryreligiouspeople.NotadaypasseswithouttheirvisitingtheBuddhist shrines,offeringincenseandworship.ReligionisextremelyimportanttotheTibetansandhasastrong influenceoverallaspectsoftheirlives.BonistheancientreligionofTibetanswhichisnowreplacedby TibetanBuddhism,adistinctiveformofMahayanaandVairayanaintroducedintoTibetfromthe SanskritBuddhisttraditionofNorthernIndia.DuringChinasculturalrevolution,mostoftheTibetan monasterieswereransackedanddestroyed.Thereisanewawakeningtorebuildthesemonasteries. OfallthesectsofTibetanBuddhism,themostprominentaretheGelugpaoryellowhatwhosespiritual headistheGandenTripaandwhosetemporalheadistheDalaiLama. TheinfluenceoftheDalaiLamaisimmense.Theyveneratehimeventhoughheisnotintheirmidst. Theyprostrateinfrontoftemplesforhislonglifeandbenevolence.Therearetwopowercentresin

TibetanBuddhismtheDalaiLamawhostandsfortheeternalwisdomandsorevered.Thencomes thePanchenLamawhoistherenownedresearcherofthereligionwhoseheadquartersisinShigatse. TherehavebeenconstantconflictsbetweentheDalaiLamaandthePanchenLama.MostTibetans havetheirprayerwheelwiththemandwhenevertheygettimechantmantrasrotatingthewheel.There areasmallminorityofMuslimsalsothere,soalsoahandfulofChristians.Indiansarehighlyrespected byTibetansaswehaveprovidedasylumtotheDalaiLamaandhisfollowers. EconomySinceagriculturallandisverylimited,onlybarleyandmustardaregrown.Grazingisan importantoccupationandyaks,lambsandgoatsarereared.Theseandassociatedproductsare exportedtoneighbouringcountries.Doughmadefrombarleyflourcalledtsampaisthestaplefoodof Tibet.Thisisrolledintonoodlesormadeintosteameddumplingscalledmomos.Mustardgrown locallyfeaturesheavilyinitscuisine.Meatdishesareyak,goatormuttonoftendriedorcookedintoa spicystewwithpotatoes.ThemainincomefortheStateisfromtourism,especiallythe Kailash/Manasarovaryatra. TheimportantcitiesinTibetlikeLhasa,Shigatse,GyantseandChamdo.Thesehavepavedroads, electricityandwatersupply.Butthevillagesbeyondhaveonlymudaccessroads.Waterhastobe fetchedfromthenearestriver.Electricityisirregular.Medicalfacilitiesarelimitedtotheimportant cities.MostoftheshopsandeateriesareownedbytheChinese.Vegetarianfoodfreshlymadeis availableinalltheseChineserestaurants. v)theproblemsfacedbytourists/pilgrimsvisitingTibet: 1)Itisnecessarytoeducatethepilgrimswhattheyshouldbereadytofacewhenundertakingtheyatra inTibet.Themostimportantaspectistherarefiedatmosphere.Theoxygenavailableat15000feetis onlyabout40%oftheoxygenatsealevel.Breathingthenbecomesaverybigproblematthesehigh altitudesinTibet.Indianpilgrimsseldomconsiderthisaspect.Thetravelagentwantsbusinessand doesnotemphasisethesehardships.Monthsbeforeonethinksofthisyatra,theyshouldregularly undertakebreathingexerciseswithayogateacher.Theyshouldalsoexercisetheirlimbsbrisk walkingforanhour.Whenplanningthetrip,allowatleastthreedaysacclimatisationassoonasyou reachthishighaltitude.Thesethreedaysshouldbespentwithnoactivitysothatyourbodyisableto adjusttothechangedenvironment.Ifthisisnotdone,manyarethecaseswhenpilgrimshavetobe rushedformedicalaidadministeringoxygen.Inmanycases,theiryatraisinterruptedandtheyhaveto berushedtoalowerelevationtorevivetheirbreathing. 2)Therearetworoutesonecantakeforthisyatra.OneisfromKatmandufollowingthelandrouteto theChinesebordertownofZangmu.Zangmuselevationis7500feet.Hotelsareavailable.Stayingin Zangmuforafewdayswillhelpthehumanbodytoadjusttotherarefiedatmospherebutwhenyou travelfromZangmutoSagawhoseelevationis15000feet,thereisasuddenchangeintheelevationand theconsequentdeprivationofoxygenandtheattendantbreathingproblems.Sagahasahotelbut minimumfacilities.Availabilityofwaterinthebathroomsisfrom8p.m.to10p.m.andinthemorning from7a.m.to9a.m.

 3)ThesecondrouteistoflydownfromKatmandutoLhasawhoseelevationisalmost11000feet.If oneallowsforthreedaysacclimatisationinLhasathebodyisabletoadjusttothisrarefiedairand furthertraveltohigherelevationdoesnotcausemuchdiscomfort.AlsoLhasahasbetterhotels,reliable watersupplyandelectricityandalsogoodmedicalfacilities. 4)Suddenchangetorarefiedairaffectsallpeopleincludingyoungpeople.Nobodyisfreefromthis malody.I,82yearsold,didnotfacebreathingproblemsinLhasabutmydaughter48yearsoldfelt chokedandbreathlesswithin12hoursfromarrivalandhadtobeadministeredoxygen.ThepointI wishtomakeisthatallirrespectiveofageorsexcanfaceoxygenstarvationatthesehighaltitudes.Itis thereforeabsolutelynecessarytoprovidefortwotothreedaysrestwithnoactivitywhenonechanges overfromalowerelevationtoahigherelevation.Alsotourists/pilgrimsshouldtakeDiamoxtabletsonce adayadayortwopriortoreachingTibettohelpimprovebreathingintherarefiedatmosphere. 5)IwouldrecommendthatallpilgrimsshouldcommencetheiryatrafromLhasaasnotonlydoesit allowtimeforabettertransitiontohighaltitude,italsoenablesonetoseethehistoricalandculturalside ofTibet. 6)Masksarerecommendedtoavoidinhalingthedirtwhentravellingonunpavedroads. 7)Afterbeinginthelandcruiserforover2hours,stopthevehicle,andstretchyourlegsandbody. Maybeashortwalk. 8)Wearloosefittingclothessothatthereisspaceforexpansionandcontractionofthebodywith breathing. 9)Drinklotsofwaterastheairisdryandthebodyneedsrefrigeration!!Alsoeatsomefoodorother maybechocolates.Nooilstuff. 10)Nevermakeabruptbodymovements.Whengettingupfromasittingposture,dososlowlyand allowafewminutestosteadyyourself.Bloodcirculationtoyourheadandbraintakestime. Otherwise,youwillfeelvertigoandmaycollapse. 11)Neverbeinahurrytowalkfast.Takeslowsteps.Whenclimbingsteps,onestepatatime.Raise onefootpersteptobefollowedbythenextfootinthesamestep.Thisconservesenergy. 12)Abathisaluxury.Youcanhaveabathinhotelswherefacilitiesareavailable.Youjustcantdo thiswhenlivingincamps. 13)GuestHouseshavecommontoiletfacilitieslikeinourvillages.Theyarenotcleanandatnightwith noelectricilluminationavailable,canbeanightmare.Itismorehygienictostayincampswheretoilet tentsareavailablethanstayinginguesthouses.

14)Withfreezingtemperaturesandpaucityofwater,oneshouldbepreparedtousetoiletpaperor wipes. 15)Travelagentspacksixorsevenpeopleperroominhotels.Thisismostinconvenientandtakes awayyourprivacy.Askfortwoperroom. 16)Sincetravellinginjeepscannotbeavoidedforlongdistances,advisabletolimitmaximumtothree perlandcruiser.Oneneedthiscomforttotakethislongjourney.AlsoadvisetheAgentmakingyour travelarrangementstoensurethattheGuideaccompanyingyourgroupistrainedtoprovidefirstaid, resuscitation,etc.Thisisabsolutelyimportantaseventhehealthiestperson,evenyoung,cancollapse duetothelowoxygenintheatmosphere. 17)TheKoraorparikramaisundertakenbyTibetansaswellasHindus.TheBonTibetansdothe pradakshinaanticlockwiseandtheTibetanBuddhistsandHindusdotheparikramaclockwise.The orthodoxTibetansprostrateallthroughtheparikramapath.AllpeopleconsidercircambulatingMt. Kailashassacredandsarvapapavimochana.Thefervorshownshouldbeseentobebelieved.The pathisfarremovedfromthefoothillsofMt.Kailashastheseregionsaredifficulttotraverse.Thepath itselfisnotalevelgroundnorabeatenpathwhichhasleftfootprintsfromtimeimmemorial.Itisapath strewnwithrocks,boulders,loseearth,mudorsleetinterspersedwithsmallwaterflows. Theentireareaisdevoidofanygreeneryasweareinanareaofacolddrydesert.Theonlyindication ofthepatharethesmallmoundsofrockpiecesputtogether.Ithasfartoomanyupsanddownssome ofwhicharesteep.Withtherarefiedatmosphereandconstantclimbinganddescendingoneisleftout ofbreathmostofthetime.TheKoraiscompletedgenerallyinthreedays.Thefirstdayisatrekof21 kms.climbingfrom15500feetto17500feet.Onlyifonehasthewillpowerandconstantthoughtof theLordandhisblessing,heorshecanfulfilltheyatra.Theseconddayspathisthemostarduous. Nowthepathinitiallyissteepfullofbouldersandputsabigstrainononesstrengthanddetermination. Weclimbfrom17500feetto19800feettoreachtheDolmaPassonthisday.Onreachingthispoint, eventhosewhoridehorsesareaskedtodismountasthefurtherdownwardpathismoretreacherous, steepandfullofbouldersandevenhorsescannotpasswithloadasthereislikelyhoodoftheirtripping andinjuringthemselves.Soallpilgrimsarenecessarilyrequiredtowalkdownonthistreacherous boulderstrewnpath.Toaddtothemisery,thepathissharedbyhorsesandyaksandonehastogive wayfortheseanimals.Thiswalkthroughsteepboulderstakesthebreathoutofmostandonlywill powersustainsusaswehavetocoveralmost8k.ms.beforewereachthefoothillsat15000feet. Thentowardsthecampwhichisafewkms.awaythroughwindinghillsandvalleysstrewnwithrocks andditchesandupsanddowns.Onthissecondday,thedistancetravelledis16kms.Thelastdays walkisfairlyeasierasitinvolvesonlyawalkof10k.ms.Thepathisfairlyevenforthefirsthalfbut lateryouhavetoclimbupamountainalonganarrowpathanddescendtolowerlevels.Scarybut achievable.Oncompletionofthisparikrama,wedrivedowntothecampnearManasarovarforthe holydip. 18)Themostessentialitemseachpilgrimshouldhaveare: 1. Apairofgoodqualitywaterprooftrekkingshoescoveringtheankle.Buygood

namebrands. 1. Woolensocksatleasttwopairs. 2. Apairofwaterproofwalkingshoesfornormaltravel. 3. Twopairsofthickwoolentrousers. 4. underwearsonedozen 5. thickcottonbanianswithhalfsleevesadozen 6. thickcotton/flannelshirts6 7. Athickweatherproofjacketwhichhasapocketalongsidesaswellasinfrontwhere youcankeepyrtraveldocuments,money,specs,etc. 1. Glareglassesivproof. 2. Abagtokeeptheessentialclothingandarticlesrequiredduringtheparikrama. 3. Urinationwillbecomedifficultifyouhavelayersofclothing.Soagoodthickwoolen trouserwillsuffice. 1. Amonkeywoollencapandasunhat. 2. Coldcreamandbodycream.Whenyouarecampingorduringparikrama,onlyyoucanwipeyr bodywithawetclothorsanitarytowel.Creamswillhelppreventdryskin. 3. Araincoatisessentialasweatherduringparikramaisunpredictableitcanbesunnybut suddenlyturntofreezingrain,snoworsleet. Medicalsuppliesasrequiredbyindividuals.ThekitshouldcontainDiamoxcapsules. Thesearemypersonalobservations.Iamsurethiswillhelpothersmakingthetripbyforewarningthem aboutthehardshipsandpleasures. Ramakrishnan