Sizes & Fit

Directions are written for custom sizing this hat to fit any head. Suggested measurements are given for Infant size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses as follows: Infant (Toddler, Child, Adult, AdultXL) Hat fits best with 1 - 2 of negative ease in the band.

Check the yarn band for recommended needle sizes. If there is no recommendation use these suggestions:
YARN WEIGHT DK WORSTED ARAN CHUNKY SM NEEDLE US5 (3.75mm) US6 (4mm) US7 (4.5mm) US8 (5mm) LG NEEDLE US8 (5mm) US9 (5.5mm) US10 (6mm) US10 (6.5mm)

Finished Measurements:

Depth (bottom of band to top of crown): 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) Suggested Circumference: 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) to fit a head circumference of 14 (16, 18, 20, 22)

Techniques & Stitches Used

cast on cast on stitches to the right tip of the needle mid-row. i-cord pick up sts knit purl knitting in the round use of stitch markers decrease (K2tog, SSK, SSP)

Gauge

There is no specific gauge for this pattern as it is knit to fit as you go.

Materials
Yarn: Yardages listed are generous estimates. It's always better to err on the side of too much yarn rather than too little. When in doubt, buy the extra skein for insurance. This hat can be knit from yarn of any weight, but works best in DK chunky weight yarns. You will need approximately 160 (170, 180, 190, 200) yards or 140 (150, 160, 170, 180) meters for a DK weight hat you can get away with slightly less yardage for heavier weight yarns. If you choose a contrasting color (CC) yarn for the brim, it should be about 20% of your total yardage. Sample shown was knit with Three Irish Girls Wexford Merino Silk (a single ply, aran weight yarn) in Gavin (MC) and McNamara (CC). Notions: 5 stitch markers, darning needle for weaving in ends Needles: Since there is no gauge and a range of yarn weights suggested for this pattern you will choose your needles based on the weight of your yarn. You will need double pointed needles and 12 or 16 circular needles in the smallest size recommended for your yarn and three sizes larger.

Glossary

dpns = double pointed needles k = knit K2tog = Knit two stitches together as one. p = purl pm = place marker rep = repeat instructions between the * sm = slip marker sl1pwyib = slip 1 stitch as if to purl with working yarn held to the back. sl1pwyif = slip 1 stitch as if to purl with working yarn held to the front. SSP = slip a stitch as if to knit, slip another stitch as if to knit; return slipped sts to left needle and purl them together through the back loops. SSK = slip a stitch as if to knit, slip a stitch as if to purl; slip the left needle into the front of these stitches and knit them together through the back loops. st(s) = stitch(es)

- Page 1 - Regina 2011 Carina Spencer | www.CarinaSpencer.com | Not for commercial use

KNITTING DIRECTIONS
BRIM
With smaller needles and CC yarn (if applicable), CO 3 sts and k 2 in i-cord. At the end of the last row use a single cast on (also called a backwards loop cast on) or your preferred method to cast on 3 sts to the tip of your right needle. Pick up 3 sts from the CO end of the i-cord you will now have an i-cord loop on your needle. 9 sts. ROW 1 (WS): sl1pwyif, bring working yarn to the back between the first and second stitch, *k1, p1* to end of row.

ROW 2 (RS): sl1pwyib, bring working yarn to the front between the first and second stitch, *p1, k1* to end of row. Repeat these two rows until work measures 1-2 less than head circumference. Take the measurement from the start of the ribbing, not from end of the i-cord loop. End with a RS row. Suggested measurements are 13 (15, 17, 19, 21)

FAN

NEXT ROW inc (WS): sl1pwyif, bring working yarn to the back between the first and second stitch,*KFB, p1*, to end of row. 4 sts increased; 13 sts. NEXT ROW (RS): sl1pwyib, bring working yarn to the front between the first and second stitch, *p2, k1* to end of row. NEXT ROW (WS): sl1pwyif, bring working yarn to the back between the first and second stitch, *k2, p1* to end of row. Repeat the last two rows one time. Work the RS row once more. NEXT ROW inc (WS): sl1pwyif, bring working yarn to the back between the first and second stitch, *KFB, k1, p1*, to end of row. 4 sts increased; 17 sts. NEXT ROW (RS): sl1pwyib, bring working yarn to the front between the first and second stitch, *p3, k1* to end of row. NEXT ROW (WS): sl1pwyif, bring working yarn to the back between the first and second stitch, *k3, p1* to end of row. Repeat the last two rows one time. Work the RS row once more.

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Continue in this manner, increasing 4 sts as established every 6th row until work measures about 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) from the first increase row use the suggested measurements to choose the length for the size closest to the one you are working. End on a 4th row from the last increase row a WS row. Bind off loosely on the RS as follows: K2, slip these 2 sts back to the left needle, *k2tog through the back loop, slip the new st back to the left needle*, rep to end of row. Break yarn and secure the last st by pulling the tail through and tightening.

PICK UP STS FOR THE HAT

Change to your smaller circular needle in (the circular in the same size as the DPN you're currently using) and MC yarn for this section. Pick up sts using your 12 needle for Infant and Toddler sizes, and 16 circular needle for all other sizes. Hold the ribbed band with the WS facing (the WS of the fan is the side with mostly knit sts divided by single columns of purl sts) and the i-cord loop to the right. Turn work slightly toward you so you can see the slipped sts along the top edge clearly. Make sure you are picking up into the slipped sts and not half of a slipped st and half of the st next to it! With MC yarn, pick up 1 st in each slipped stitch along the top between the i-cord loop and the first increase row of the fan. Do this by inserting the tip your right needle from front to back under both strands of the slipped stitch and pulling a new stitch through.

JOIN IN THE ROUND

For the next row you'll need to do a little math to figure your increases. You want to increase (using KFB) by about 50% with the final stitch count being divisible by 5. For example if you have 55 picked up sts (as I did with a worsted weight Adult version of this hat), you would figure the math like this: 55 x 1.5 = 82.5 Round up to the nearest number divisible by 5. In this case that number is 85, so you would need to increase by 30 sts evenly around on the next row.

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Place a marker and join for knitting in the round remember the hat is knit inside out from this point, so you will be working with the WS facing you. Work an increase round as described in the box above. On the next round you will be placing markers to divide your hat in 5 equal sections. To do so you will need to know how many sts equal 20% of total sts. Use the following line to write in your number. (Total sts) _______ 5 = _______ sts. Subtract 1 from the number you wrote in the second blank above. Use this number to fill in the blank on the next round. NEXT ROUND (place markers): Change to larger circular needle. K_______, p1, *pm, k_______, p1*, rep to end of round. 4 new markers placed. NEXT ROUND: *k to 1 st before marker, sl1pwyif, sm*, rep to end of round. NEXT ROUND: *k to 1 st before marker, p1, sm*, rep to end of round. Repeat the last two rounds until work measures 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) from the bottom edge of the band. End with a slipped st round.

If you have 3 sts between markers work this round before working the final decrease round: *k2tog, p1*, rep to end of round. 5 sts dec'd; 10 sts. If you have 4 sts between markers work this round before working the final decrease round: *k3tog, p1*, rep to end of round. 10 sts dec'd; 10 sts. FINAL DEC ROUND: SSP to end of round. 5 sts dec'd; 5 sts. Break yarn leaving at least a 6 tail and thread the tail through the last 5 sts pulling snug to secure.

FINISHING

Remember your hat was knit inside out, so weave in ends on the WS (stockinette side). Turn hat right side out and pull the fan through the icord loop. Wet block hat pinning the fan open at three points while it dries. When dry, stitch the fan into place on the hat (using the photos as your guide) with a couple stitches on each corner and one in the center.
PATTERN SUPPORT If you have a question or need support please visit the "SUPPORT" section of my website at carinaspencer.com TERMS & CONDITIONS 2011 Carina Spencer. All rights reserved. Pattern is not to be reprinted, reproduced, or distributed without permission from the designer. Items created from this pattern are not to be sold for profit without a license, but are always allowed for use in trades and craft swaps. LICENSING If you are interested in knitting this pattern for resale or charity fund raising information on cottage industry licensing is available at carinaspencer.com CREDITS Many thanks to the smart and helpful ladies who helped me test knit and tech edit this pattern! You were invaluable and much appreciated.

DECREASE FOR THE CROWN

Change to dpns as the number of stitches decrease to the point where it becomes uncomfortable to knit with your circular needle. NEXT ROUND (dec): *SSK, k to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, p1, sm*, rep to end of round. 10 sts dec'd. NEXT ROUND: *k to 1 st before marker, sl1pwyif, sm*, rep to end of round. Repeat the last two rounds until there are 3 or 4 sts between the markers your stitch count when you increased after the brim will determine which one it is.

- Page 4 - Regina 2011 Carina Spencer | www.CarinaSpencer.com | Not for commercial use