Tres chic, tres French - MCV - Melbourne Community Voice for Gay and Lesbian Readers

Written by Dark Lord

Wednesday, 09 April 2008 01:31 - Last Updated Thursday, 22 May 2008 02:00

S.M. King has the lowdown on contemporary French cuisine.

When we think fine dining, we think almost inevitably of French food.Which is only fair given
fine dining was an invention of the French. In fact, les Français lay claim to the entire restaurant
concept. A man called Boulanger claimed to restore his 18th century patrons with sheep’s’ feet.
He wasn’t selling chic.  In fact, he was selling sustenance. The term “restaurant” is derived from
the verb “to restore". While we might not find sheep bits fortifying, we have to admit: a
great eatery truly does have the power to restore.

In Melbourne, and in other great culinary cities, much fine dining is influenced by French
technique and scholarship.Celebrated French chef Georges Auguste Escoffier codified haute
cuisine in the early 20th century and his is still the bench mark of that which qualifies as “fine”.

And we do have some fine French restaurants.

If you want to blow the budget, head directly to Vue de Monde in the city. Shannon Bennett’s
food is inspired, innovative and sometimes sublime. This is screechingly modern French.
Consomme froid a la tomate, a clear tomato consomme with gazpacho jelly, arrives bubbling as
dry ice sends plumes of vapour out of a shot glass.

Less theatrical but equally innovative is Jacques Reymond. His eponymous Prahran
restaurant is consistently rated one of the best in town. However, my own experience of this
nosherie doesn’t tally with that of Melbourne’s more august critics. I reckon there’s better places
to blow a pay-check.

New on the Melbourne scene is Guillaume Brahimi’s Bistro Guillaume, which joins Nobu and
Rockpool at the expanding gastro-ghetto that is Crown. Brahimi’s menu skews trad French. It’s
uber-posh bistro food. The wagyu of pig, Berkshire pork, appears in cutlet form with pommes
croquettes and sauce charcutiere. Classic dishes like escargot are on the menu, and here even

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Tres chic, tres French - MCV - Melbourne Community Voice for Gay and Lesbian Readers

Written by Dark Lord

Wednesday, 09 April 2008 01:31 - Last Updated Thursday, 22 May 2008 02:00

the snails have a provenance (the Hunter Valley). Such attention to origin doesn’t come cheap.
The Whole Barossa Valley chicken, puree de pommes and sauce a la chasseur for two is $90.

Also at Crown, the brasserie by Philippe Mouchel serves up an excellent version of a

traditional French favourite: steak tartare. Here dive into 150g of topside wagyu served with
first-rate fries.

Such places are apt for a big occasion, but dotted around the city and suburbs are a number of
less showy places that do a fine turn at traditional French favourites.

Bistro Thierry in Hawksburn does an outstanding job of pretending to be in Montmartre.

Genuinely French waiters in waistcoats zip around this bustling little space delivering terrines,
snails, lambs brains and minute steaks of consistent quality.

Up the tracks at France-Soir, French-accented waiters in waistcoats zip around an equally

atmospheric bistro serving up duck confit pate, salad Provencale and one of Melbourne’s best
French onion soups. The wine list here peaks out at 1500.

The few unapologetically French bistros we have are patronised by seniors who expect
Maurice Chevalier and dependable comfort. Often, that’s what they get. But, where’s the harm
in craving a little restoration? I can barely wait for my next minute steak.

France Soir 11 Toorak Rd, South Yarra P: (03) 9866 8569

Jacques Reymond 78 Williams Rd, Prahran P: (03) 9525 2178
Bistro Thierry 511 Malvern Road, Toorak P: (03) 9824 0888
Vue de Monde 430 Little Collins St, Melbourne P: (03) 9691 3888
the brasserie by Philippe Mouchel at Crown 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank
P: (03) 9292 7808
Bistro Guillaume at Crown 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank P: (03) 9693 3888

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