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Build Your Own Intel Core 2


Gaming Rig - A HardwareZone
DIY Special

Edited by Eskender Ahmed Alassbhi


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Build Your Own Intel Core 2 Gaming Rig - A HardwareZone DIY Special

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Welcome Builder!

Build Your Own Intel Core 2 Gaming Rig - A HardwareZone DIY


Special

Most gamers would and should be familiar with the old adage "you get what you pay for". Quality
goods command a premium price, and this is certainly true where PC components are concerned.
It should come as no surprise then that the most gaming capable rigs are also often the most
costly.

Anyone with enough money can put down a few grand for an immensely capable Alienware,
Voodoo or Falcon Northwest gaming rig (and they often do), but it takes a true genius to be able
to build a similarly capable rig for a fraction of the price.

So how does one go about building a powerful gaming rig for a fraction of the cost? The answer is
to D.I.Y. - Do It Yourself.

The chief reason for the popularity of DIY amongst enthusiasts is that compared to branded PCs,
it is often easier to build a similar system for less. On top of that, doing it yourself gives you
complete freedom and control over the components that go into your system, so you can tailor
your rig to your exact specifications and needs. Need a smaller 250GB hard drive instead of a
500GB one? No problem. Don't need an optical drive at all? Sure thing, just don't buy one.
Specifically want a certain brand of graphics card? It's your call. These are the kinds of freedom
you don't enjoy when buying off the shelf.

Having said that, this guide will show you exactly how you can go about building a powerful Intel-
based gaming rig.

But before we begin, there are some things you need to consider. First and foremost, you need to
decide whether your system will run using Intel or AMD processors. Different chips require
different chipsets and hence different motherboards. Judging from recent reviews we have
conducted, it is evident that Intel processors are superior, for now at least, and are therefore
more suitable for our gaming rig.

However, that's not to say AMD processors are inferior. On the contrary, if what you are looking
for instead is a slightly more budget-oriented and balanced system that is nevertheless powerful

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enough for gaming, playing HD content like Blu-ray movies, then you might want
to consider the AMD route. To repeat a common theme emphasized by GPU manufacturers, it's
the graphics card, not the processor that does most of the heavy lifting in today's games.

The next thing you'll need to decide is whether or not you'll want to have multiple graphics card
for a gaming boost. This is crucial because NVIDIA's multi-GPU solution, SLI, is only possible on a
motherboard utilizing NVIDIA's nForce chipsets. On the other hand, ATI's multi-GPU solution,
CrossFireX, is more accessible, as it is supported on both AMD and Intel chipsets. These are the
two more important factors to consider. Now, let's look at Intel's offerings.

List of Intel Processors

Right now, most of the newer Intel systems are running on their Core 2 line of processors and can
primarily be differentiated by having either dual or quad cores. In addition, there is also the
"Extreme" line of quad core processors, with unlocked clock multipliers, for overclocking
enthusiasts.

The table below shows the main categories of Intel's Core 2 family of processors. Under each
category are many other processors which run at different frequencies and have their own unique
specifications. For convenience's sake and the purpose of our demonstration, we have decided to
show only the top of the line processors from each category.

(Note: This table does not include the latest Core i7 processors)

List of Intel Processors

Core 2
Processor Pentium
Core 2 Duo Core 2 Duo Core 2 Quad Extreme
Name Dual-Core
Quad

E2220,
E8600, Q9550, QX9650,
Processor E2200,
E7200 E8500, Q9450, QX9770,
Model E2180,
E8400 Q9300 QX9750,
E2160

2.40GHz, 3.33GHz, 2.80GHz, 3.0GHz,


Processor
2.20GHz, 2.5GHz 3.2GHz, 2.60GHz, 3.0/3.2GHz,
Frequency
2.0GHz 3.0GHz 2.50GHz 3.2GHz

No. of Cores 2 2 2 4 4

1333MHz,
Front Side
800MHz 1066MHz 1333MHz 1333MHz 1600MHz,
Bus (MHz)
1600MHz

L1 Cache
(32KB + (32KB + (32KB + (32KB + (32KB +
(data +
32KB) x 2 32KB) x 2 32KB) x 2 32KB) x 4 32KB) x 4
instruction)

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2 x 6MB
except
L2 Cache 1MB 3MB 6MB 6MB
Q9300 (2 x
3MB)

External - External - External - External - External -


Memory
Chipset Chipset Chipset Chipset Chipset
Controller
Dependent Dependent Dependent Dependent Dependent

TDP (W) 65 65 65 95 130 - 150

MMX, SSE, MMX, SSE, MMX, SSE, MMX, SSE,


MMX, SSE,
Instruction SSE2, SSE3, SSE2, SSE3, SSE2, SSE3, SSE2, SSE3,
SSE2, SSE3,
Set Support SSSE3, SSSE3, SSSE3, SSSE3,
SSSE3
SSSE4.1 SSSE4.1 SSSE4.1 SSSE4.1

Execute
Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Disable Bit

Intel EM64T
Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
/ AMD64

Enhanced
Intel
SpeedStep Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Technology
(EIST)

Virtualization
No No Yes Yes Yes
Technology

LGA775
LGA775 for LGA775 for LGA775 for LGA775 for except
Packaging
all all all all QX9750
(LGA771)

Process
65nm 45nm 45nm 45nm 45nm
Technology

Yorkfield
except
Processor
Allendale Wolfdale-3M Wolfdale Q9300 Yorkfield XE
Codename
(Yorkfield-
6M)

Die Size 111mm² 82mm² 107mm² 214mm² 214mm²


except

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Q9300
(164mm²)

No. of
167 million 410 million 410 million 820 million 820 million
Transistors

Our Set-up

For the purpose of our demonstration, we decided to use a mid-range Intel P45, which should be
more than adequate for most users. We will then pair the board with a dual-core Intel E6300
processor. To ensure that our rig has what it takes to take on the most graphics-intensive games,
we are going to use of ATI's latest top-of-the-line Radeon HD 4870 graphics card.

Alright then, let's start our demonstration proper.

Our Setup

Motherboard Mid-range Intel P45

Processor Intel Pentium Dual-Core T2130 (1.86GHz)

Graphics Card ATI Radeon HD 4870 GDDR5 512MB

Memory 2 x 1GB DDR2-800

Hard Disk Storage 1 x 7200RPM 200GB

Cooler Intel stock cooler (bundled with processor)

Casing ATX Mid-tower

Power Supply 650W Modular power supply

Optical Storage SATA Blu-ray drive

Step 1: Installing the Processor

First and foremost, before you take any components out of the packaging, ensure that you're
electrostatically discharged. You can do this simply by wearing an electrostatic wrist strap (which
can be purchased at most electronics store). Alternatively, you can touch the metal case of a
power supply that's connected to the mains (but not necessarily turned on). However, do note

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that if you're not wearing the wrist strap, it is always a good idea to discharge
yourself from time to time while assembling the PC to ensure you're always grounded.

Now that you've earthed yourself, you can safely remove the processor from the box package and
inspect to see if there are any defects. Don't worry if you don't see any pins on the processor, it's
not a defect. The LGA775 packaging does not come with any pins.

When handling the processor, always hold the processor by the sides as shown in the picture
below. Do not touch the contact pads as you do not want to soil nor damage them. A dirty contact
pad could surface later as a reliability or stability issue since it adds unnecessary resistance to the
path of the electric circuits. Furthermore, dirt, oil and/or perspiration from your fingers could
result in long-term reliability issues, such as corrosion.

The processor is perhaps the most important component of an entire computer.


Therefore, exercise extreme caution when handling it. This is how you should handle it,
always holding it by the sides and making sure you do not touch the contact pad.

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This is the motherboard we'll be using. The motherboard is a critical component because
it is the means by which all parts and components of the PC communicate.

Installing the Processor (cont'd)

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This is where the processor will go. To protect the extremely fragile pins of the socket, it
is usually shipped with a plastic cover, which we've already removed here.

The metal cover here secures the processor to the socket. To unlock it, lift the lever by
releasing it from the catch and pull upwards. Once that is done, lift the cover gently.

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This is how the processor should look like when it is in place. Note the notches. It should
fit in the socket easily, without the need of any force.

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With the processor in place, flip the metal cover down and lock in a place by pushing the
lever down. With the processor in the socket, it'll require a little force to push the lever
down. This is how it should look like once all is done.

Step 2: Installing the Cooler

Once you've installed the processor successfully, you'll now need to install the cooler. Do note
that if you are using a third-party cooler, it is important to ensure that the cooler matches the
processor's thermal design power (TDP) requirement. Failure to do so can and will cause the
processor to overheat, which can result in permanent damage to its delicate circuitry.

Anyway, before installing the cooler, you'll need to know a couple of things about its clip system.
Familiarize yourself with it before you install it.

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This is the cooler that we'll be using. Careful when handling it, the fins can cut.

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Before installing the cooler, make sure the push-pins are in the "open" position, at 90
degrees to the cooler, like so.

Installing the Cooler (cont'd)

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Having ensure the push-pins are in the right position, place the cooler over the
processor, and align the push-pins against the motherboard. Now push the pins down
hard until you hear a resounding 'click', indicating that it is securely in place.

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To make sure you've installed the cooler correctly, turn the motherboard over and have
a look. The push-pin should look like the above.

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With the cooler in place, take the power connector from the cooler and plug it into the
corresponding header on the motherboard. It should be labeled as CPU_FAN.

This is what the cooler should look like once it's properly installed.

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Step 3: Installing Memory Modules

Next, you should install the memory modules. Nowadays, the motherboard's DIMM slots have
been color coded for easy dual-channel configuration. However, do note that motherboard
manufacturers have different color coding schemes. Some boards have DIMM colors assigned to
each memory channel while others color-code the DIMMs in dual channel memory pairs.

While DDR3 memory is slowly becoming more widespread in the market, DDR2 memory remains
the most widely-used right now. Hence, for the purpose of this demonstration, we'll be using
DDR2.

These are the DIMM slots. This particular motherboard comes with 4 x 1.8V DDR2 DIMM
slots, with support for up to 16GB of memory.

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These are the DDR2-800 RAM modules that we'll be using.

To install the memory modules, hold on to the edges of the modules, align them
perpendicular to the motherboard and push them into the DIMM slots until they click
into place.

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To check that we've installed the memory modules correctly, click the clips on the slot.
The clips should rest on the modules' notches, like above.

Step 4: Installing the Power Supply Unit

Before installing the power supply unit, ensure that the unit's rating is suitable for your setup. We
recommend at least a PSU wattage of at least 450W for a lower to mid-range system and you'll be
looking at close to 1kW for multi-GPU systems. This is crucial because today's graphics cards,
especially the high-end ones, are remarkably power hungry. To add on, also ensure that the unit
is one with the newer 24-pin ATX power connector.

In our setup, we will be using a modular power supply unit, which, unlike power supply units of
old, allows you to remove cables you do not need, thereby reducing clutter and improving
ventilation within the casing. For our unit, the ATX and PCI-e connectors come fitted as standard.
Should you need extra cables, just attach them.

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For our demonstration, we'll be using a modular power supply. As you can see, it comes
with less than the usual number of cables, allowing you to choose what you need for the
additional cables. This results in lesser cables, which translates to better circulation
within the casing.

We'll be needing two of these PCIe power connectors to power the graphics card.

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We'll be needing these SATA power cables as well, for SATA hard disks and optical
drives.

For some reason, the ATX12V power connector was deemed optional on this PSU. We'll
be needing this as well.

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After connecting the required power connectors to the PSU, insert the PSU into its
position as shown. Ensure it is placed correctly. The fan should always face downwards.

Once you've made sure that the PSU is positioned correctly, screw it into place.

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Installing the Motherboard

Now that the power supply unit, memory modules, processor and cooler have been installed, you
can now install the motherboard onto the casing. However, before we do so, we must first prepare
the casing by installing the rear I/O panel.

Once that is done, we can proceed.

This is the I/O panel that came with the motherboard, and this is the one that we'll be
using.

Usually, the rear I/O panel on casings should be empty. If a I/O panel has already been
installed, simply remove it. The I/O panel should snap on easily. This is what it should
look like. Also, ensure the orientation is right. If not, you won't be able to install the
motherboard later.

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This is where the motherboard will be placed. But before we install it proper, we need to
prepare it by identifying the screw positions on both the motherboard and casing.

After identifying the screw positions on the motherboard, use these spacers by twisting

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and turning them into place onto the chassis.

Installing the Motherboard (cont'd)

Ensure that the spacers are fastened securely. Note the labels beside the spacers. They
tell you which screw positions are for which type of motherboard.

With the spacers in place, you can now install the motherboard. Ensure the motherboard
is aligned with the spacers, as well as the rear I/O panel. The ports on the rear I/O
panel should be easily accessible.

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Now we will use these fine threaded screws to fasten the motherboard to the casing.

When fastening the motherboard in place, make sure that the spacers installed earlier
are properly aligned to the mounting holes. Also, ensure every spacer is used to fasten
the motherboard, unused spacers can and may cause a short circuit.

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This is what the motherboard should look like once it has been properly installed.

Step 6: Installing the Power Connectors

With the motherboard in place, we can now connect the power connectors. There are two sets
that need to be connected, locate the ATX and ATX12V power connectors and insert the
corresponding connectors into the right place. Ensure that they are connected correctly and
securely.

The motherboard needs power, so we need to connect the power connectors to it. There
are two power connectors the motherboard needs. Firstly, locate the ATX and ATX12V

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sockets on the motherboard. Most modern motherboards make use of a 24-pin


connector, so take that from your PSU and plug it into the motherboard securely.

Remember that ATX12V connector we connected to PSU earlier? Use it and connect it to
the 12V socket.

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Insert the connector fully into the socket. The latch will secure it in place once it has
been fully inserted.

Do the same for the smaller 12V connector.

Step 7: Installing the Hard Drives

In this next step, we'll show you how to connect SATA hard disk drives to the motherboard. We'll
assume that you already know how to physically install a hard disk drive to the casing. It's pretty
straightforward, just find the appropriate internal 3.5-inch bays in the casing, insert the hard disk
drive, align the screw locations to the ones on the casing, fasten the drive with screws and you're
done installing the drive to the casing.

However, we'll like to bring your attention to some important details about SATA connectors.

By now, you'll notice that no mention was made about Master and Slave drives. For SATA
technology, there's no need for any jumper manipulation since each drive is connected to the
SATA port from one end to the other. This simplifies the installation process as users need not
worry about Master/Slave conflicts, cable types (40-conductor and 80-conductor) and specific
cable orientation. Also, you'll notice that the cable is now much slimmer, which makes cable
management simpler, which in turn clears up more room for greater airflow within the casing.
Moreover, SATA provides greater bandwidth compared to the old PATA (Parallel ATA) standard -
150MB/s versus 133MB/s.

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Now, let's continue with the SATA hard disk drive installation.

This is the hard disk that we'll be using. Our casing allows the hard disk to be easily
mounted, without any screws, by way of these mounting racks.

The mounting racks are of the snap-on kind. Simply fit it onto the hard disk and you're
set.

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With the mounting rack on the hard disk, simply insert the entire hard disk into the hard
disk bay. The racks will snap into place once the hard disk is inserted properly.

These are the SATA connectors for the hard disk; one for data and the other for power.
We installed the one for power on the PSU earlier, remember?

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Once the hard disk is installed, connect the SATA cables to it and make sure they're fully
plugged in, leaving no gaps whatsoever.

With the SATA connectors connected to the hard disk, connect the other end of the data
cable to the motherboard. This motherboard has six SATA ports.

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Plug the SATA data cable in firmly. A click should be heard.

Step 8: Installing the Optical Drive

When you're done installing the hard disk drives, move on to install the optical storage drive.
Once again, we'll assume that you already know how to mount a 5.25-inch drive into the casing.
It's just a matter of inserting the drive, aligning and fastening screws at the right places.

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This is the SATA optical drive that we'll be using. Installing the optical drive is very
similar to the hard disk that we did earlier.

After installing the optical drive into its bay, connect the SATA data and power cables to
the drive.

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Once that is done, connect the SATA data cable to the motherboard, just as you did
when installing the hard disk earlier.

Step 9: Installing the I/O Brackets

Now, we shall install the I/O brackets that came with the motherboard.

These are the I/O brackets that came with the motherboard. Of course, before installing,
be sure to remove any of the rear faceplates that you don't need.

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Put the bracket in place and fasten it.

Now plug the connector into the corresponding header on the motherboard. We'll be

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plugging it to the SATA ports because the brackets provide eSATA output.

Step 10: Installing the Graphics Cards

We are almost done, now it's time to install what most gamers would surely consider the most
important component of the computer - the graphics card.

For the purpose of our demonstration, we'll be using a Radeon HD 4870 graphics card. It
has enough graphics processing power to handle all but the most demanding of games.

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This is the PCIe 2.0 x16 slot that will accommodate the graphics card.

Before we install the card, first remove the corresponding 'dummy' faceplate from the

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casing.

To install the graphics card, simply insert it into the PCIe slot. Ensure it is firmly in
place.

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Once the graphics card is in place, you should now be able to fasten the graphics card's
faceplate to the casing. Also ensure that the video outputs are accessible.

Finally, attach the 6-pin PCIe power connectors to the graphics card. The Radeon HD
4870 requires two of them.

Step 11: Connecting the Front Panel Headers

The last thing you need to do before booting the system up for the first time, is to connect the
front header panels.

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Like most other motherboards, the front panel headers on this are colored for easy
identification. The polarity of the connectors has also been marked to ensure that users
connect them correctly.

The connectors, as you can see, have all been clearly labeled.

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These are the connectors for the front side USB and IEEE 1394 ports, all clearly labeled.

To connect them, simply insert the corresponding header into the connector. Ensure it is
inserted properly and double check the polarity.

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This is what everything should look like once it is done.

Step 12: Powering Up

Before powering up the system, it's helpful to go through and verify that all the components have
been properly installed and that there are no connectors unplugged. You can also tidy up some of
the cables in the casing as it will help to improve airflow within that confined space.

Right, your system is almost ready to power up, but before you do, here are some things you
should check first:

Check the rear and make sure all ports are accessible, properly installed and fastened in

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place.

Before powering up, do a check to ensure everything is properly connected and


installed. Once that is done, tie all the loose cables together like so to minimize clutter
and promote better circulation.

Also, you should have a monitor ready, all connected and turned on. If you have an analog
monitor, connect the cable to the VGA connector (the blue connector) on the graphics card. If the
graphics card doesn't have a VGA output, use a DVI-to-VGA adapter. Those with digital flat panel
monitors with DVI or HDMI support should use an appropriate cable to achieve the best display
quality.

Lastly, remember to connect your mouse and keyboard to their respective USB or PS/2 ports. If
you are still using keyboards and mice that use the really ancient PS/2 interface, note that the
mouse connector is green, whereas the one for keyboards is purple.

Step 13: Configuring the BIOS

Once you've powered up the system, the first thing you'll probably notice is the unmistakable whir
of fans spinning. The 'power' LED on the front panel should also light up.

The boot screen should also then provide you with some information about your system. Once you
see the boot screen, immediately press the DEL key (this could vary depending on motherboard
BIOS) to enter the BIOS configuration menu. The menu you see should resemble the one below.

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This is the main menu of the BIOS setup.

To navigate, use the arrow keys (Up, Down, Left and Right); use the ENTER key to select an item.
Other keys include ESC (Escape) which lets you exit the current setup page to go back into the
main menu, PgUp (Page Up) to increase numeric value (or change selection) and PgDn (Page
Down) to decrease numeric value (or change back to previous selection). The controls in the BIOS
screen are pretty standard although we would advise you to check the manual to find out more
about the control keys as it varies from board to board.

The first thing we'll configure is the Standard CMOS Features, so highlight it and press enter. It
should bring you to a page that looks like the one below.

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This is the standard CMOS menu. Editing the system time and date will suffice.

Here, the first thing you should do is to change the system time and date. Leave the other items
as they are and press ESC to return to the main menu.

Configuring the BIOS (cont'd)

Once you are back, head to Advanced BIOS Features. Here, there are a few things that you might
want to tweak, but let's start first with the hard disk boot priority. If you have a floppy disk drive,
the common practice is to set the floppy drive as the first boot device, followed by the optical
drives and lastly the hard disk.

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The Advanced BIOS Features menu.

Here you can edit the boot priority for the hard drives on your system.

Following that, set CPU Multi-threading to 'Enabled'. This is crucial for your multi-core processor to
work properly. Next, set Limit CPUID Max. to 3 to disabled if you are using Windows XP and

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above. For those using an older version of Windows, enable this option. If you
wish to use a password to prevent unauthorized access, you can also do it here. There are two
different settings to this item, 'System' and 'Setup'. The 'System' password check setting will
require the user to enter a password whenever you boot the system or if you want to access the
BIOS setup menu. The 'Setup' password check setting will only ask for a password if you want to
enter the BIOS setup menu but will allow the user to boot without any password. Once you are
done press ESC and return to the main menu.

Now let's enter the Integrated Peripherals sub-menu. Here, they are a few important things we
need to take note. Since we are using a single SATA hard disk, set the SATA RAID/AHCI mode to
AHCI. Ensure that the all the USB options are enabled, if not you won't be able to use USB
devices like keyboards and mice. Also, make sure the Azalia CODEC, for high-definition audio, is
enabled. These are the more important options to enable. Should you need anything else, such as
IDE and FireWire connectivity, just edit the settings as you see fit.

The Integrated Peripherals menu, where you'll find the onboard devices for this
motherboard and enable/disable them as necessary.

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Set to AHCI since we only have a single hard disk installed.

Configuring the BIOS (cont'd)

Return to the main menu and enter the Power Management Setup sub-menu. This sub-menu
allows you to change the way your system powers up and down. We recommend that you leave it
as default unless you know what you are doing and have very specific requirements for your
system.

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The Power Management Setup menu.

The next sub-menu is for PnP/PCI Configuration, which lets you assign IRQ to specific PCI slots.
Leave them at default options. Do not change the IRQ assignments unless you really know what
they do. Most of the time, Windows should have no problems handling these and you should
rarely encounter IRQ conflicts. PCI Express slots, widely used by graphics cards now, do not
require IRQ assignments.

Following that is the PC Health Status sub-menu, which shows you your system's hardware status
and allows you to configure various warnings to monitor the well-being of your hardware. We
recommend that you enable all the warning options.

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The PC Health Status menu. We recommend that you enable all the system warnings.

Configuring the BIOS (cont'd)

The following sub-menu is the MB Intelligent Tweaker. For the board in our example, this is where
you manage various settings to overclock your system. Remember, applying extreme settings can
damage your hardware and we advise that only advanced users tamper with the configurations
here. Here's a brief run-down on what does what:

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The MB Intelligent Tweaker menu. This is where all the overclocking magic happens.

 CPU Clock Ratio - This tells you the ratio at which the processor is running at in relation
to the system bus speed. For instance, if the system bus of the system is 266MHz and the clock
ratio is 7, then the processor is clocked at 266MHz x 7 = 1.86GHz.

This is where you adjust your CPU clock ratio.

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 CPU Host Clock Control - Enabling this allows you to modify the CPU Host Frequency
aka. front-side bus (FSB).

This allows you to adjust the system's FSB.


 PCI Express Frequency - This affects the PCI Express slots on the motherboard. We
recommend leaving this at 100MHz, because increasing this yields very little gain in
performance, and if anything, exposes your system to more risk.

 C.I.A.2 - This stands for CPU Intelligent Accelerator 2. It is a proprietary feature that
dynamically overclocks your processor according to the system load. As a start, we advise that
you keep the option disabled until you're comfortable enough to overclock the system.

 System Memory Multiplier - This affects the speed at which the memory operates. Like
all the settings before, we advise that beginners leave this at auto.

 DRAM Timing Selectable - Enabling this allows you to manually configure your RAM
timings. We suggest beginners leave this at auto as inputting the wrong timing values can
make your system unstable.

 System Voltage Control - This section allows you to adjust the voltage going to your
hardware. While overclocking the CPU, it is advisable to increase the CPU voltage as well, to
ensure it gets enough juice. Again, beginners should not carelessly mess about with these
settings.

Once you're done with the BIOS configuration, select the Save & Exit Setup at the BIOS main
menu screen and allow the system to reboot. You are now ready to install Windows Vista.

Step 14: Installing Windows Vista

Installing Windows Vista can be a time consuming process, but thankfully, it is quite simple. First,
insert the Windows Vista installation CD and wait for it to boot up. Upon booting up, you should
see a screen prompting for your preferred language, time and currency format. Enter your
settings and there after, it's just a matter of following the on-screen instructions.

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This is the first screen you'll see. Use the drop down menu, select the language, time
and currency format and keyboard and input method. Not too difficult yeah?

Click it. Just click it.

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Now input the CD-key. You can choose not to, but Vista will warn you that you had
better, or you risk re-installing Vista and thereby lose your data, information and
programs.

Installing Windows Vista (cont'd)

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Select the edition of Windows Vista you've purchased. If you've entered your CD-key
earlier, Vista will automatically detect the version you purchased.

You'll now be asked what kind of installation you want. If it's a clean install, only
"Custom" will be available. Upgrade is available only to users who upgrade from
Windows XP.

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We are almost there, now you'll be asked where you want to install Vista. Just click on
the drive you want. You can even partition or format the drive first if you so choose.

Windows is now installing. This will take some time, depending on your system. Now is a
good time to go make a cuppa, take a bath or even a nap. After it is done, it will
automatically reboot itself.

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When installation is complete, you'll be prompted to enter your user name and
password. The account you create here will be an administrator account. You can also
add more accounts later.

Installing Windows Vista (cont'd)

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During installation, Windows will ask if you want it to automatically download and
install security updates for you. We suggest users to use the recommended setting
unless they know what they are doing.

Now, Vista will prompt you for the time and date. So just fill in accordingly, it's not
rocket science.

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Hoila! What do you know? You have successfully installed Windows Vista. Not difficult at
all, is it?

Congratulations, you have finished installing your system. You can now install whatever software
or games you need. We hope that you have found our guide useful and informative, and that you
managed thus far without encountering any major hiccups.

From here on, before you can begin enjoying your games, you need to install the necessary
drivers for your system. Getting Service Pack 1 for Vista is an important step to improving your
system performance. But before you do, we recommend those who are more knowledgeable and
comfortable with computers to disable Vista's User Account Control (UAC), a built-in security
infrastructure introduced in Vista. UAC can be quite a hassle (and a nag) especially when you
have lots of software to install. However, it can also be a lifesaver, especially for those who are
not sure of how to secure their systems.

The first drivers you'll probably want to install are those of your graphics card (if only so that your
display looks decent while installing other drivers/software). Simply insert the installation CD that
came with the graphics card, or simply go to either ATI's or NVIDIA's (depending on which card
you have) website to download and install the latest drivers. The latter method is preferable
because the latest drivers are usually optimized for maximum performance.

After that, you can either choose to continue installing the other necessary drivers, such as for
those for your motherboard, printer, mouse or keyboard. Alternatively, you can simply begin
installing the games you wish to begin playing. Note that DirectX 10 already comes installed with
Vista, though the games you choose may install other necessary components. Happy gaming!

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