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Dunlop tyres

from early 60s


up to the 70s
GoodYear
famous Blue
Streak tyres of
the 60s
Firestone Tyres
from mid 60s
up to the 70s
!"#$%&'("%) ver.2.0
Tyres Manual
Introduction
Power&Glory in this version 2.0 features 104 diferent cars from 1960 to 1974. We have spent an enormous
amount of time to painfully discover, determine and confgure each car physics, graphics and sounds, as
accurately as possible. Never before in the history of mods, have there been cars recreated with so many
variants and all the features that you can see on the body of each car is faithfully recreated in the physics. Te
attention to detail is simply, staggering.
As a result of this, the number of tyres and compounds of each tyre, outnumbers by a big margin, the tyres
and compounds of GTR1, GTL, GTR2, RACE and GTR EVO all together resulting in 64 diferent tyre
fles, each of them with at least 2 compounds, usually 4... all this in a single mod.
Although we are sure our fans will be delighted with such attention to detail, we are also aware that such
amount of diferent cars, variations and detail, make this mod a unique experience which can be delightful to
the ones that are prepared and ready to explore it for a long time, but also frustrating for the ones that will
just try to fnd the perfect car (that probably does not exist). Still, we cant really sit back, relax and expect that
simracers will spent months to simply understand the performances of each car/tyre combination. It wouldnt
even be realistic, and we strive for realism every single day of the last 12 months that we are working on this
project.
GTL Workshop is going to produce a long list of manuals and we start with a comprehensive tyres manual,
that describes in a simple table the main characteristics of each tyre.
GTL Workshop 2008
TYRES MANUAL | III
Table of Contents
1 Generating grip iv
Tyre slip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . iv
Pressure & Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v
Wear & Rain tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vi
2 Workfow vii
3 Dunlop Tyre Table viii
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix
4 Firestone Tyre Table x
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xi
5 GoodYear Tyre Table xii
General information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .xiii
iv | Power&Glory v.2.0 by GTL Workshop
1
Generati ng
grip
Cross-ply tyres of the Sixties era were much less
sophisticated than their modern counterparts. Still
they had to handle similar power to weight ratio cars
with much less sophisticated suspension and chassis,
and on much more demanding tracks. Obviously, the
lack of grip made the cars slide, so focus was greater
on tyre consistency and predictability than absolute
grip, and of course that translated to great spectacle
for the viewers and some greatly balanced and fun
to drive race cars. Tose were the days when drivers
would ask for more power rather than more grip...
Still, if you really want to go fast, you really need
to understand a couple of things about tyres. First
of all, you should need to understand how tyres are
generating grip, how they generate heat and what
tyre pressure is doing on the tyres behaviour. Lets
start with the basics by giving a very simplistic -
and highly inaccurate - example that can help you
understand how a tyre generates grip with load.
Imagine slipping your fnger on your desk. As you
slip your fnger, friction is generated and you can feel
some resistance. If you push harder your fnger on
the desk, while still slipping it across the surface, you
will notice how the friction generated is higher and
the resistance is also higher. Well, this is more or less
what is happening on your tyres. Te weight of the
car and the inertial forces are pushing the tyres on
the tarmac and so grip is generated. Still, there is no
such thing as a perfect world, so turning back to our
example you will notice that while you keep pushing
your fnger harder and harder on the desk and
generate more and more friction, you always arrive
at a point that the friction is never enough to prevent
your tyre from slipping. Tis is a very important
conclusion as it is obvious now that the generated
grip is never enough to sustain any force applicable
and sooner or later, slipping occurs. Keep always
in mind that this is a very simplistic and inaccurate
description of what actually happens, and reality is far
more complex. However it is an acceptable practical
example on what is happening on your tyres.
So when moving weight on your tyres - the famous
weight shifting - while turning, braking and
accelerating, you are loading your tyres and make
them grip more, you must always be conscious that
too much load will eventually make your tyre slip,
regardless of your intentions. Your goal is to fnd that
magic amount of load that will permit your tyres to
grip, without much slipping.
Tyre slip
Slipping means wasting energy in friction,
transforming power to heat and fnally losing time.
Tat is why modern tyres generate their maximum
grip at extremely low slip angles, like only six degrees
for touring cars and just three degrees for Formula
One modern single-seaters. Tis means that the
driver, aided by the great amounts of grip, is forced
to follow a single very precise line while at the same
time keeping slip at a minimum.
Fortunately for us, this was hardly the case with
Sixties era tyres. Tyres were exceptionally predictable
and with their high and fexible sidewalls and specifc
cross-ply construction, required and provided high
slip angles in order to attain their maximum grip.
Tis means that drivers were forced and encouraged
to drift the cars around curves, in order to achieve
the best grip and speed in the bends. Of course, high
TYRES MANUAL | V
angle drifts were possible and quite spectacular to say
the least, but then again only less skilful drivers would
engage to such kind of driving, and usually because
they overshoot the entry point, or just applied too
much throttle on the exit. Although spectacular ,
this kind of driving, even with these cars is highly
inefcient, tyre consuming and risky. To be fast you
need to fnd that subtle limit of four wheel drift that
will make you fast around the track.
Pressure
One of the most signifcant diferences between
modern slick tyres and treaded cross ply tyres of the
Sixties, is the tyre pressure. Tose tyres needed much
higher pressure than anything youre used to. Te
soft sidewalls were easy to bend and create a sloppy
and slippery feeling while driving, and the rolling
resistance was quite high, thus lowering top speed
and acceleration. High pressures kept the sidewalls
from bending making the handling more precise
and would give higher top speed and acceleration.
Furthermore the higher pressure would better
dissipate the heat generated by the tyres.
Start from the default setup tyre pressure and work
in the range of 30psi (275kPa) for very light cars and
up to 55psi (380kPa) for heavier cars, always cold
pressures. After a couple of laps the IMO (Inside,
Mid, Outside) temperatures on the garage screen
should help you understand if you need to infate or
defate the tyres. If the mid temperature is higher
than the other two, then defate and vice versa.
Nevertheless keep in mind that most of those tyres
are very thin, so its normal that the mid temperature
will get higher as the temperature rises.

Another important variable to keep in mind is that
a higher pressure makes for a stifer ride, meaning
more precision and agility, but also harsh ride and
handling problems over bumps and kerbs.
Finally, as time progressed, tyres became wider and
with lower sidewalls. Already towards the end of
the 60s, the heavier and more powerful cars would
get equipped with fat tyres, thus requiring lower
pressures, in the range of 220kPa to 300kPa. Check
our tyre tables for more info.
Temperature
Due to their chemical properties and construction,
tyres best operate at a very specifc temperature.
Modern tyres once again, have been highly optimized
and work in a very limited range of temperatures
while at the same time ofer various compounds for
diferent ambient and track temperatures.
Once again, this is not the case with the Sixties era
tyres. Teir optimum temperature is around 85C
(185F) but by not having multiple compounds on
ofer - similarly to road legal tyres - their operating
range is much wider, ranging from as low as 50C
(122F) degrees, before noticing any considerable
loss of grip, and up to 110C (230C) degrees, again
before any noticeable degradation of grip levels. Keep
in mind though that although still sticky enough,
operating the tyres above or below the optimum
temperature will result in more wear. Higher tyre
pressure can help lower tyre overheating, and lower
tyre pressure can raise the tyre temperatures if they
are too low ... do not expect miracles though.
Power&Glory version 2.0 is simulating tyre heat even
better than before. Depending on the car suspension
geometry, static camber and of course driving style,
the tyres will start cold and gradually heat up mainly
their outside part. As temperature rises, the pressure
also rises and the tyre sidewall becomes more stif.
After 2 or 3 laps the pressure should be optimal and
vi | Power&Glory v.2.0 by GTL Workshop
Rain tyres
Te Sixties tyres are all treaded, which means that
you can still count on your dry tyres when the
track is just slightly wet. Usually, the rain tyre used
is the softer dry tyre. Still, later in the decade, proper
rain tyres start to appear and they ofer better grip
under more critical conditions. Optimum rain tyres
temperature is similarly set at 85C (185F) and
they happily operate at much lower than that value
much like a normal street tyre, but they tend to have
serious grip problems when overheated, so be careful
how you use them when the track starts drying out.
Late Sixties tyres also start to have more specialized
dry tread designs and can get very tricky under
wet conditions. With those cars you better use the
dedicated wet tyres when the track gets wet.
Power&Glory version 2.0, also corrects a historical
inaccuracy of the 1st release. Please take note and
use the correct tyres
Dunlop tyres between 1965 and 1966 do NOT use red
dot tyres as rain tyres, but rather the most soft dry
compound (i.e. yellow and white respectively). The
red tyres are now endurance tyres, please check our
tyre tables.
Unfortunately, some limitations of the GTR2 code,
forced us to include some compromises.
Although in this manual you will fnd all the
information about the rain tyres present in the mod,
loading the mod you will also fnd in the garage
the typical three rain tyres, intermediate, wet and
monsoon types. All three of those tyres are the same
rain tyre as described in this manual. The reason
they are present is to make the AI cars properly pit
on changing conditions, and continue their race. You
can ignore their existence and stick to the manual.
the temperatures should start to be more balanced
between inner, middle and outer sides. Of course,
depending on the cars suspension geometry, some
cars would keep the outer temperature always higher
(i.e. live axle), some will have extremely high inner
temperature (i.e. alpine rear tyres, or 1969 Mini
front tyres both with over -3.0 static camber) and
so on. Dont get too paranoid with tyre temps and
pressure though. Simply try to achieve an acceptable
temperature and pressure and focus on general
car balance, rather than absolute precision to the
numbers, especially on older cars. A diference of
10 degrees Celsius between IMO will be optimal,
but it will also be fne to have 5 degrees or even no
diference at all, not optimal but not a tragedy either.
With cars of the late 60s you can be more accurate
on the tyres temperatures and pressures, as the cars
become sophisticated enough to make better use of
their tyres.
Wear
Te tyre wear is gradual and almost linear, lap after
lap. You can expect tyres to last about an hour of
hard racing or even more, depending on driving
style, weight of the car, track layout etc. etc. Still even
very worn tyres continue to behave in a predictable
manner and wont let go abruptly. Again, optimum
tyre pressure, temperature and driving style are
paramount for less tyre wear. Back in the day, most
cars would even fnish entire endurance races without
changing tyres, not once.
TYRES MANUAL | VII
temperatures. Dont make the mistake to press
escape and instantly enter the garage screen
while the car is still in a turn. It will certainly give
you readings that might confuse you (i.e. very hot
outside temperature on the outside tyres). Tis is
absolutely realistic behavior for a tyre, but it is a
bit diferent from what most simracers are used
in our idealistic tyre temps simulations of other
sims/mods. Keep going and slow the car down
on a straight, or better yet, enter the pits.
8. Once stopped, look at the tyre temperatures
and observe the IMO (Inside/Middle/Outside)
readings. Try to modify the pressure of the
tyres in order to get a balanced IMO readings
(middle should ideally be between the outside
and inner values), but dont get paranoid about it.
A diference of 10 degrees Celsius between IMO
will be optimal, but it will also be fne to have 5
degrees or even no diference at all, not optimal
but not a tragedy either. Good car balance is
what you should always try to achieve , regardless
of tyre temperature readings.
its that simple... almost...

*
1
GTLWorkshop advice users of 900 de-
grees wheels (i.e. Logitech DFP and G25,
Fanatec wheels ecc), to set their wheels
at maximum 900 degrees and use a
steering lock ratio in the garage in the
range of 28 to 34.
2
Workfow
Understanding which car has what compounds and
what compound is better than the other is vital to any
driver. To better help you with your quest, we have
compiled a simple workfow sequence.
1. Examine your car in the showroom before
selecting it and write down the model year.
2. Look at the tyre sidewalls. If you dont see
any lettering then 99% is a Dunlop, other tyre
brands almost always have their lettering on the
sidewalls.
3. After choosing the car with the tyre brand of
your liking, enter the garage setup page. Look at
the various compounds available.
4. With the year model, tyre brand and compounds
noted, look at our table and you will be able to
understand which compound is harder, which is
softer, which is for dry racing and which is for
wet racing and so on
5. Start with the default setup pressures, maybe
change the steering lock*
1
to better suit your
driving style and steering wheel equipment and
exit the pits
6. On the out lap, try to drive smoothly without
exaggerated drifts. Tis will bring your tyres in
temperature and raise the pressure, making them
more precise.
7. Keep driving for another lap or two. Only after
at least two laps it is time to look at the tyre
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!"#$ !&'$()*+'*,-. .,-/*'
.,-/*'
'#$00,#$0
-*!$0 1#"' 2$3# )*-."!"*-0 &$3#
R5 D9
R5 D12
R6L D9
R6L D12 green spot
R6M D9
R6M D12 green spot
R7 Red spot
R7 Green spot
R7 Yellow spot
R7 White spot
CR65 184
CR65 970
CR84 184
CR81 236
CR81 232
CR65 184
R5 270-370kpa 1
vERY
HARD
All Weather/Dry up to 1962
R5 270-370kpa 2 SOFT All Weather/Wet up to 1962
R6L 270-370kpa 2 HARD All Weather/Dry 1963
R6L 270-370kpa
The green spot started to be more useful on
long races too, especially on light cars under
2.5 liters.
3 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1963
R6M 270-370kpa
The thread design of the R6M type, had a
lower profile but the tire proved to be more
dangerous in wet conditions with a high risk
of acquaplanning.
3 HARD All Weather/Dry 1964
R6M 270-370kpa
Same problems of acquaplanning even for
the softer compound.
4 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1964
R7 270-370kpa 4
vERY
HARD
All Weather/Dry 1965-1966
R7 270-370kpa 5 HARD All Weather/Dry 1965-1966
R7 270-370kpa 6 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1965-1966
R7 270-370kpa
This extremely soft tyre was introduced only
on 1966 and it was so soft that it could be
used in race trim, only by the lighter cars.
7 SOFT All Weather/Wet 1966
CR65 220-300kpa
Touring and GT cars, not using very low
profile tires.
6 MEDlUM All Weather/Dry 1967-1971
CR65 220-300kpa
Touring and GT cars, not using very low
profile tires.
8 SOFT All Weather/Wet 1967-1971
CR84 220-300kpa Touring and GT cars, with low profile tires. 7 MEDlUM All Weather/Dry 1967-1971
CR81 300-400kpa
The CR81 is designed to cope with fairly
large negative cambers used on the Mini (up
to -3 degreesj Not suitable for fully wet
conditions - OK as an intermediate type. Only
for the front tires, green spots at the rear.*
6
MEDlUM
HARD
lntermediate 1969-1971
CR81 300-400kpa
The CR81 is designed to cope with fairly
large negative cambers used on the Mini (up
to -3 degrees?j Not suitable for fully wet
conditions - OK as an intermediate type. Only
for the front tires, White spots at the rear.*
7
MEDlUM
SOFT
Dry 1969-1971
CR65 300-400kpa Special 10" Mini tire for wet conditions. 6 MEDlUM Wet 1969-1971
.45678
TYRES MANUAL | IX
3
Dunlop
tyres
Starting from the very early 60s, Dunlops racing tyre
was the R5 available in two compounds, D9 for dry
use and D12 for wet use. On lighter cars and shorter
races (F1 for example) it was possible to use the D12
compound for most dry races.
In 1963 the R6 L construction tyre was introduced,
also available in D9 and D12 compounds, the D12
compound being known as the green spot compound
- the tyres had a green spot on their sidewall.
Improvements in the R6 construction meant that it
was easier to use the green spot compound for dry
conditions, and on cars under 2.5 litres it would even
be used for long races like the Le Mans 24 hour race.
Te R6 was sometimes known as the CR48.
In 1964 the R6 M construction tyre was
introduced which had a lower profle than the L
construction. It was also available in D9 and D12/
Green spot compounds. Unfortunately, the tyre was
very prone to acquaplanning, even in its D12/Green
spot compound.
In 1965 the R7 tyre was introduced, with a new
tread pattern intended to reduce aqua planing
which had become an issue with the lower profle
M construction R6. It was available in green spot
compound, a new softer yellow spot compound and
a new harder red spot compound (replacing D9). Te
R7 was sometimes referred to as the CR65. Te R6
continued to be used in 1965 and was available in the
new yellow spot compound.
In 1966 a new even softer white spot compound
was made available for the R7, with exceptional grip
and handling characteristics but also much easier to
overheat. Only the more lighter cars could use this
compound in races.
In 1967 Dunlop were efectively out of F1 where
15 tyres were used and their 15 tyres were not
competitive. But they kept developing their F2 tyres
(where 13 tyres were used) and these tyres were
competitive.
Te old color spot designation for compounds was
replaced by a number system. Compound 184 and
970 were introduced. 970 was softer than 184 and
originally intended as the wet compound but
proved usable in the dry on single seaters at least.
Dedicated Mini tyres. The great success of the Mini Cooper forced
Dunlop to create dedicated tyres for the car particular charac-
teristics (front wheel drive and tiny 10 inch wheels)
In May 1967 a new tyre was produced specially for
the Mini, the CR81 with a new compound 236.
Problems with negative camber overheating the
inner shoulder led to the asymmetric CR81 Mk1 in
July.
From the above, it is clear that the Dunlop tyres while
almost dominant in the early to mid 60s with their
13 tyres, they started to show weakness when the
two main competitors - Firestone and Goodyear -
moved to 15 tyres for the heavy and more powerful
cars.
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!"#$ !&'$()*+'*,-. /"#$0!*-$
/"#$0!*-$
'#$00,#$0
-*!$0 1#"' 2$3# )*-."!"*-0 &$3#
lndy WS104
R106
R125 ZB14
R125 ZB11
R106 ZB11
lndy WS104 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Sports GT tires 7 MEDlUM Dry 1966
R106 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Sports GT tires 6 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1966
R125 ZB14 200-270kpa
GT40 MK1 Gulf tires
9
MEDlUM
HARD
Dry 1969
R125 ZB11 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Gulf tires 8 MEDlUM lntermediate 1969
R106 ZB11 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Gulf tires 7 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1969
!"#$ !&'$()*+'*,-. /"#$0!*-$
/"#$0!*-$
'#$00,#$0
-*!$0 1#"' 2$3# )*-."!"*-0 &$3#
lndy WS104
R106
lndy WS 112
lndy WS108
R106 WS 112
lndy WS 122
lndy WS 118
R106 WS118
lndy WS 134
R106 WS 134
l-3 lB19
l-3 lB18
R106 ZB11
lndy WS104 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 7 MEDlUM Dry 1966
R106 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 6 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1966
lndy WS 112 220-270kpa
Heavy Touring and GT cars, endurance tire
6
MEDlUM
HARD
Dry 1967
lndy WS108 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 7 MEDlUM Dry 1967
R106 WS 112 220-270kpa
Heavy Touring and GT cars
6
MEDlUM
HARD
All Weather/Wet 1967
lndy WS 122 220-270kpa
Heavy Touring and GT cars, endurance tire
7
MEDlUM
HARD
Dry 1968
lndy WS 118 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 8 MEDlUM Dry 1968
R106 WS118 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 7 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1968
lndy WS 134 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 8 MEDlUM Dry 1969
R106 WS 134 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 7 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1969
l-3 lB19 220-270kpa
Heavy Touring and GT cars, endurance tire
8
MEDlUM
HARD
Dry 1970-1971
l-3 lB18 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 9 MEDlUM Dry 1970-1971
R106 ZB11 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 8 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1970-1971
/456789:6
;1!<= >:? 98@65 7A958 A59898BA67 84567C
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;@6>DB !E547F9 >:? 15>: !E547F9 84567C
TYRES MANUAL | XI
4
Firestone
tyres
Firestone tyres start their competitive presence in the
races with the advert of more powerful cars that used
15 tyres. From 1966 and on, they would be the tyre
of choice for several legendary cars , such as the Ford
GT40, AC Shelby Cobras, Ford Mustangs, Chevrolet
Corvettes and others.
Produced on various compounds and under constant
development they provided probably the best
compromise between the various tyre manufacturers.
For touring and GT cars like the Mustangs and Corvettes, Firestone
provided the following compound choices
In 1966 there where available two choices, namely
the Firestone Indy WS104 that was used primary
for dry endurance races and the Firestone R106
(WS104) that was softer and used on wet conditions.
In 1967 Firestone introduced the following
compounds: Firestone Indy WS 112 as a dry
endurance tyre, Firestone Indy WS108 again a dry
compound although softer and the Firestone R106
WS 112 mainly used under wet conditions
In 1968 Firestone introduced again new
compounds. Te Firestone Indy WS 122 was a dry
endurance tyre, followed by the Firestone Indy WS
118 with a softer dry compound and the Firestone
R106 WS118 soft compound for primarily wet
conditions.
In 1969 there was only one compound introduction
and probably the 1968 compounds where still in use.
Firestone Indy WS for dry conditions.
Finaly in 1970-71 Firestone introduced 3 new
compounds for endurance, dry and wet conditions.
Firestone I-3 IB19 as a dry endurance tyre, Firestone
I-3 IB18 a softer dry compound and Firestone R106
ZB11 for wet conditions.
Firestone also had a dedicated line for the faster prototypes cars
that had started appearing in the endurance races, such as the
Ford GT40 in diferent variations.
In 1966 Firestone Indy WS104 where used for dry
endurance with the Firestone R106 WS104 for wet.
In 1967 Firestone introduced 3 new compounds.
Firestone R125 WS 112 for dry endurance, Firestone
R125 WS 108 softer dry compound and Firestone
R106 WS 112 for wet conditions
In 1968 Firestone again evolves its oferings
with 3 new compounds. Firestone Indy WS 122
(dry endurance), Firestone Indy WS 118 (dry) and
Firestone R106 WS118 (wet)
In 1969 Firestone is once again the choice of the
famous GT40 MK1 Gulf cars, and new compounds
are created for the extremely fat tyres. Firestone R125
ZB14 for dry conditions, Firestone R125 ZB11 as a
frst intermediate tyre and Firestone R106 ZB11 for
wet conditions.
Te Firestone tyres although still treaded, had very
specifc compounds for dry and wet conditions, with
diferent tread designs. As such, you should expect
each tyre to be more specialized and a tyre change will
be needed in variable weather and track conditions.
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!""#$%&'
()*+ (-.+/012.1345 !115-+6*
!115-+6*
.*+773*+7
41(+7 !*). 8+6* 0145)()147 -+6*
G7R655
G7R430
COBRA R655
D G20
D G8
A G8
W G16
BLUE STREAK 200-250kpa 6 MEDlUM All Weather 1966-1967
BLUE STREAK 200-250kpa
Only fitted on the rear wheels of the 1964 AC
Cobras 289c.u.
7 SOFT All Weather 1966-1967
BLUE STREAK 200-250kpa
Special tyres and dimensions for the AC
Cobra 427c.u.
7 MEDlUM All Weather 1966
BLUE STREAK 180-220Kpa New concept later model, low profile tires. 9 SOFT Dry 1970
BLUE STREAK 180-220Kpa New concept later model, low profile tires. 8 MEDlUM Dry 1970
BLUE STREAK 180-220Kpa New concept later model, low profile tires. 7 MEDlUM All Weather 1970
bLUE STREAK 180-220Kpa New concept later model, low profile tires. 7 SOFT All Weather/Wet 1970
TYRES MANUAL | XIII
5
GoodYear
tyres
For some reason, it seems there is very little
information about GoodYear tyres of that era. What
is known is that GoodYear did a quite important
marketing operation back in the days, trying to
demonstrate that its Blue Streak line tyres where
direct derivatives of the racing correspondents.
As a matter of fact, GoodYear would ofer just a single
compound, suitable for both dry and wet solutions
up to 1966. Te only diferent compound available
was the G7R430 that was ftted mainly on some
289c.u. Cobras and was used as a rain tyre, given its
softer compound.
GoodYear also introduced specifc compounds for
the AC Shelby 427 Cobras, based mainly on drag
racing tyres, something probably needed to tame the
amazing amounts of power the 427c.u. engine could
deliver.
From 1967 and on, GoodYear was forced to
introduce diferent and more specialized compounds
for dry and wet conditions.
By 1970 GoodYear would follow the trend and
provide a complete line of various low profle dry and
wet compounds. D G20 a soft dry compounds, D
G8 a medium dry compound, A G8 as an all weather
medium compound and a W G16 as an all weather
and/or wet conditions compound, are the variants
used in the Power&Glory v2.0 mod.
GTL Workshop 2008
http://www.gtlw.co.uk
ask@fyingpig.info
!"#$%&'("%) ver. 2.0
Tyres Manual

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