up to the 70s GoodYear famous Blue Streak tyres of the 60s Firestone Tyres from mid 60s up to the 70s !"#$%&'("%) ver.2.0 Tyres Manual Introduction Power&Glory in this version 2.0 features 104 diferent cars from 1960 to 1974. We have spent an enormous amount of time to painfully discover, determine and confgure each car physics, graphics and sounds, as accurately as possible. Never before in the history of mods, have there been cars recreated with so many variants and all the features that you can see on the body of each car is faithfully recreated in the physics. Te attention to detail is simply, staggering. As a result of this, the number of tyres and compounds of each tyre, outnumbers by a big margin, the tyres and compounds of GTR1, GTL, GTR2, RACE and GTR EVO all together resulting in 64 diferent tyre fles, each of them with at least 2 compounds, usually 4... all this in a single mod. Although we are sure our fans will be delighted with such attention to detail, we are also aware that such amount of diferent cars, variations and detail, make this mod a unique experience which can be delightful to the ones that are prepared and ready to explore it for a long time, but also frustrating for the ones that will just try to fnd the perfect car (that probably does not exist). Still, we cant really sit back, relax and expect that simracers will spent months to simply understand the performances of each car/tyre combination. It wouldnt even be realistic, and we strive for realism every single day of the last 12 months that we are working on this project. GTL Workshop is going to produce a long list of manuals and we start with a comprehensive tyres manual, that describes in a simple table the main characteristics of each tyre. GTL Workshop 2008 TYRES MANUAL | III Table of Contents 1 Generating grip iv Tyre slip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . iv Pressure & Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v Wear & Rain tyres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vi 2 Workfow vii 3 Dunlop Tyre Table viii General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix 4 Firestone Tyre Table x General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xi 5 GoodYear Tyre Table xii General information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .xiii iv | Power&Glory v.2.0 by GTL Workshop 1 Generati ng grip Cross-ply tyres of the Sixties era were much less sophisticated than their modern counterparts. Still they had to handle similar power to weight ratio cars with much less sophisticated suspension and chassis, and on much more demanding tracks. Obviously, the lack of grip made the cars slide, so focus was greater on tyre consistency and predictability than absolute grip, and of course that translated to great spectacle for the viewers and some greatly balanced and fun to drive race cars. Tose were the days when drivers would ask for more power rather than more grip... Still, if you really want to go fast, you really need to understand a couple of things about tyres. First of all, you should need to understand how tyres are generating grip, how they generate heat and what tyre pressure is doing on the tyres behaviour. Lets start with the basics by giving a very simplistic - and highly inaccurate - example that can help you understand how a tyre generates grip with load. Imagine slipping your fnger on your desk. As you slip your fnger, friction is generated and you can feel some resistance. If you push harder your fnger on the desk, while still slipping it across the surface, you will notice how the friction generated is higher and the resistance is also higher. Well, this is more or less what is happening on your tyres. Te weight of the car and the inertial forces are pushing the tyres on the tarmac and so grip is generated. Still, there is no such thing as a perfect world, so turning back to our example you will notice that while you keep pushing your fnger harder and harder on the desk and generate more and more friction, you always arrive at a point that the friction is never enough to prevent your tyre from slipping. Tis is a very important conclusion as it is obvious now that the generated grip is never enough to sustain any force applicable and sooner or later, slipping occurs. Keep always in mind that this is a very simplistic and inaccurate description of what actually happens, and reality is far more complex. However it is an acceptable practical example on what is happening on your tyres. So when moving weight on your tyres - the famous weight shifting - while turning, braking and accelerating, you are loading your tyres and make them grip more, you must always be conscious that too much load will eventually make your tyre slip, regardless of your intentions. Your goal is to fnd that magic amount of load that will permit your tyres to grip, without much slipping. Tyre slip Slipping means wasting energy in friction, transforming power to heat and fnally losing time. Tat is why modern tyres generate their maximum grip at extremely low slip angles, like only six degrees for touring cars and just three degrees for Formula One modern single-seaters. Tis means that the driver, aided by the great amounts of grip, is forced to follow a single very precise line while at the same time keeping slip at a minimum. Fortunately for us, this was hardly the case with Sixties era tyres. Tyres were exceptionally predictable and with their high and fexible sidewalls and specifc cross-ply construction, required and provided high slip angles in order to attain their maximum grip. Tis means that drivers were forced and encouraged to drift the cars around curves, in order to achieve the best grip and speed in the bends. Of course, high TYRES MANUAL | V angle drifts were possible and quite spectacular to say the least, but then again only less skilful drivers would engage to such kind of driving, and usually because they overshoot the entry point, or just applied too much throttle on the exit. Although spectacular , this kind of driving, even with these cars is highly inefcient, tyre consuming and risky. To be fast you need to fnd that subtle limit of four wheel drift that will make you fast around the track. Pressure One of the most signifcant diferences between modern slick tyres and treaded cross ply tyres of the Sixties, is the tyre pressure. Tose tyres needed much higher pressure than anything youre used to. Te soft sidewalls were easy to bend and create a sloppy and slippery feeling while driving, and the rolling resistance was quite high, thus lowering top speed and acceleration. High pressures kept the sidewalls from bending making the handling more precise and would give higher top speed and acceleration. Furthermore the higher pressure would better dissipate the heat generated by the tyres. Start from the default setup tyre pressure and work in the range of 30psi (275kPa) for very light cars and up to 55psi (380kPa) for heavier cars, always cold pressures. After a couple of laps the IMO (Inside, Mid, Outside) temperatures on the garage screen should help you understand if you need to infate or defate the tyres. If the mid temperature is higher than the other two, then defate and vice versa. Nevertheless keep in mind that most of those tyres are very thin, so its normal that the mid temperature will get higher as the temperature rises.
Another important variable to keep in mind is that a higher pressure makes for a stifer ride, meaning more precision and agility, but also harsh ride and handling problems over bumps and kerbs. Finally, as time progressed, tyres became wider and with lower sidewalls. Already towards the end of the 60s, the heavier and more powerful cars would get equipped with fat tyres, thus requiring lower pressures, in the range of 220kPa to 300kPa. Check our tyre tables for more info. Temperature Due to their chemical properties and construction, tyres best operate at a very specifc temperature. Modern tyres once again, have been highly optimized and work in a very limited range of temperatures while at the same time ofer various compounds for diferent ambient and track temperatures. Once again, this is not the case with the Sixties era tyres. Teir optimum temperature is around 85C (185F) but by not having multiple compounds on ofer - similarly to road legal tyres - their operating range is much wider, ranging from as low as 50C (122F) degrees, before noticing any considerable loss of grip, and up to 110C (230C) degrees, again before any noticeable degradation of grip levels. Keep in mind though that although still sticky enough, operating the tyres above or below the optimum temperature will result in more wear. Higher tyre pressure can help lower tyre overheating, and lower tyre pressure can raise the tyre temperatures if they are too low ... do not expect miracles though. Power&Glory version 2.0 is simulating tyre heat even better than before. Depending on the car suspension geometry, static camber and of course driving style, the tyres will start cold and gradually heat up mainly their outside part. As temperature rises, the pressure also rises and the tyre sidewall becomes more stif. After 2 or 3 laps the pressure should be optimal and vi | Power&Glory v.2.0 by GTL Workshop Rain tyres Te Sixties tyres are all treaded, which means that you can still count on your dry tyres when the track is just slightly wet. Usually, the rain tyre used is the softer dry tyre. Still, later in the decade, proper rain tyres start to appear and they ofer better grip under more critical conditions. Optimum rain tyres temperature is similarly set at 85C (185F) and they happily operate at much lower than that value much like a normal street tyre, but they tend to have serious grip problems when overheated, so be careful how you use them when the track starts drying out. Late Sixties tyres also start to have more specialized dry tread designs and can get very tricky under wet conditions. With those cars you better use the dedicated wet tyres when the track gets wet. Power&Glory version 2.0, also corrects a historical inaccuracy of the 1st release. Please take note and use the correct tyres Dunlop tyres between 1965 and 1966 do NOT use red dot tyres as rain tyres, but rather the most soft dry compound (i.e. yellow and white respectively). The red tyres are now endurance tyres, please check our tyre tables. Unfortunately, some limitations of the GTR2 code, forced us to include some compromises. Although in this manual you will fnd all the information about the rain tyres present in the mod, loading the mod you will also fnd in the garage the typical three rain tyres, intermediate, wet and monsoon types. All three of those tyres are the same rain tyre as described in this manual. The reason they are present is to make the AI cars properly pit on changing conditions, and continue their race. You can ignore their existence and stick to the manual. the temperatures should start to be more balanced between inner, middle and outer sides. Of course, depending on the cars suspension geometry, some cars would keep the outer temperature always higher (i.e. live axle), some will have extremely high inner temperature (i.e. alpine rear tyres, or 1969 Mini front tyres both with over -3.0 static camber) and so on. Dont get too paranoid with tyre temps and pressure though. Simply try to achieve an acceptable temperature and pressure and focus on general car balance, rather than absolute precision to the numbers, especially on older cars. A diference of 10 degrees Celsius between IMO will be optimal, but it will also be fne to have 5 degrees or even no diference at all, not optimal but not a tragedy either. With cars of the late 60s you can be more accurate on the tyres temperatures and pressures, as the cars become sophisticated enough to make better use of their tyres. Wear Te tyre wear is gradual and almost linear, lap after lap. You can expect tyres to last about an hour of hard racing or even more, depending on driving style, weight of the car, track layout etc. etc. Still even very worn tyres continue to behave in a predictable manner and wont let go abruptly. Again, optimum tyre pressure, temperature and driving style are paramount for less tyre wear. Back in the day, most cars would even fnish entire endurance races without changing tyres, not once. TYRES MANUAL | VII temperatures. Dont make the mistake to press escape and instantly enter the garage screen while the car is still in a turn. It will certainly give you readings that might confuse you (i.e. very hot outside temperature on the outside tyres). Tis is absolutely realistic behavior for a tyre, but it is a bit diferent from what most simracers are used in our idealistic tyre temps simulations of other sims/mods. Keep going and slow the car down on a straight, or better yet, enter the pits. 8. Once stopped, look at the tyre temperatures and observe the IMO (Inside/Middle/Outside) readings. Try to modify the pressure of the tyres in order to get a balanced IMO readings (middle should ideally be between the outside and inner values), but dont get paranoid about it. A diference of 10 degrees Celsius between IMO will be optimal, but it will also be fne to have 5 degrees or even no diference at all, not optimal but not a tragedy either. Good car balance is what you should always try to achieve , regardless of tyre temperature readings. its that simple... almost...
* 1 GTLWorkshop advice users of 900 de- grees wheels (i.e. Logitech DFP and G25, Fanatec wheels ecc), to set their wheels at maximum 900 degrees and use a steering lock ratio in the garage in the range of 28 to 34. 2 Workfow Understanding which car has what compounds and what compound is better than the other is vital to any driver. To better help you with your quest, we have compiled a simple workfow sequence. 1. Examine your car in the showroom before selecting it and write down the model year. 2. Look at the tyre sidewalls. If you dont see any lettering then 99% is a Dunlop, other tyre brands almost always have their lettering on the sidewalls. 3. After choosing the car with the tyre brand of your liking, enter the garage setup page. Look at the various compounds available. 4. With the year model, tyre brand and compounds noted, look at our table and you will be able to understand which compound is harder, which is softer, which is for dry racing and which is for wet racing and so on 5. Start with the default setup pressures, maybe change the steering lock* 1 to better suit your driving style and steering wheel equipment and exit the pits 6. On the out lap, try to drive smoothly without exaggerated drifts. Tis will bring your tyres in temperature and raise the pressure, making them more precise. 7. Keep driving for another lap or two. Only after at least two laps it is time to look at the tyre v i i i
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W o r k s h o p !"#$ !&'$()*+'*,-. .,-/*' .,-/*' '#$00,#$0 -*!$0 1#"' 2$3# )*-."!"*-0 &$3# R5 D9 R5 D12 R6L D9 R6L D12 green spot R6M D9 R6M D12 green spot R7 Red spot R7 Green spot R7 Yellow spot R7 White spot CR65 184 CR65 970 CR84 184 CR81 236 CR81 232 CR65 184 R5 270-370kpa 1 vERY HARD All Weather/Dry up to 1962 R5 270-370kpa 2 SOFT All Weather/Wet up to 1962 R6L 270-370kpa 2 HARD All Weather/Dry 1963 R6L 270-370kpa The green spot started to be more useful on long races too, especially on light cars under 2.5 liters. 3 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1963 R6M 270-370kpa The thread design of the R6M type, had a lower profile but the tire proved to be more dangerous in wet conditions with a high risk of acquaplanning. 3 HARD All Weather/Dry 1964 R6M 270-370kpa Same problems of acquaplanning even for the softer compound. 4 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1964 R7 270-370kpa 4 vERY HARD All Weather/Dry 1965-1966 R7 270-370kpa 5 HARD All Weather/Dry 1965-1966 R7 270-370kpa 6 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1965-1966 R7 270-370kpa This extremely soft tyre was introduced only on 1966 and it was so soft that it could be used in race trim, only by the lighter cars. 7 SOFT All Weather/Wet 1966 CR65 220-300kpa Touring and GT cars, not using very low profile tires. 6 MEDlUM All Weather/Dry 1967-1971 CR65 220-300kpa Touring and GT cars, not using very low profile tires. 8 SOFT All Weather/Wet 1967-1971 CR84 220-300kpa Touring and GT cars, with low profile tires. 7 MEDlUM All Weather/Dry 1967-1971 CR81 300-400kpa The CR81 is designed to cope with fairly large negative cambers used on the Mini (up to -3 degreesj Not suitable for fully wet conditions - OK as an intermediate type. Only for the front tires, green spots at the rear.* 6 MEDlUM HARD lntermediate 1969-1971 CR81 300-400kpa The CR81 is designed to cope with fairly large negative cambers used on the Mini (up to -3 degrees?j Not suitable for fully wet conditions - OK as an intermediate type. Only for the front tires, White spots at the rear.* 7 MEDlUM SOFT Dry 1969-1971 CR65 300-400kpa Special 10" Mini tire for wet conditions. 6 MEDlUM Wet 1969-1971 .45678 TYRES MANUAL | IX 3 Dunlop tyres Starting from the very early 60s, Dunlops racing tyre was the R5 available in two compounds, D9 for dry use and D12 for wet use. On lighter cars and shorter races (F1 for example) it was possible to use the D12 compound for most dry races. In 1963 the R6 L construction tyre was introduced, also available in D9 and D12 compounds, the D12 compound being known as the green spot compound - the tyres had a green spot on their sidewall. Improvements in the R6 construction meant that it was easier to use the green spot compound for dry conditions, and on cars under 2.5 litres it would even be used for long races like the Le Mans 24 hour race. Te R6 was sometimes known as the CR48. In 1964 the R6 M construction tyre was introduced which had a lower profle than the L construction. It was also available in D9 and D12/ Green spot compounds. Unfortunately, the tyre was very prone to acquaplanning, even in its D12/Green spot compound. In 1965 the R7 tyre was introduced, with a new tread pattern intended to reduce aqua planing which had become an issue with the lower profle M construction R6. It was available in green spot compound, a new softer yellow spot compound and a new harder red spot compound (replacing D9). Te R7 was sometimes referred to as the CR65. Te R6 continued to be used in 1965 and was available in the new yellow spot compound. In 1966 a new even softer white spot compound was made available for the R7, with exceptional grip and handling characteristics but also much easier to overheat. Only the more lighter cars could use this compound in races. In 1967 Dunlop were efectively out of F1 where 15 tyres were used and their 15 tyres were not competitive. But they kept developing their F2 tyres (where 13 tyres were used) and these tyres were competitive. Te old color spot designation for compounds was replaced by a number system. Compound 184 and 970 were introduced. 970 was softer than 184 and originally intended as the wet compound but proved usable in the dry on single seaters at least. Dedicated Mini tyres. The great success of the Mini Cooper forced Dunlop to create dedicated tyres for the car particular charac- teristics (front wheel drive and tiny 10 inch wheels) In May 1967 a new tyre was produced specially for the Mini, the CR81 with a new compound 236. Problems with negative camber overheating the inner shoulder led to the asymmetric CR81 Mk1 in July. From the above, it is clear that the Dunlop tyres while almost dominant in the early to mid 60s with their 13 tyres, they started to show weakness when the two main competitors - Firestone and Goodyear - moved to 15 tyres for the heavy and more powerful cars. x
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W o r k s h o p !"#$ !&'$()*+'*,-. /"#$0!*-$ /"#$0!*-$ '#$00,#$0 -*!$0 1#"' 2$3# )*-."!"*-0 &$3# lndy WS104 R106 R125 ZB14 R125 ZB11 R106 ZB11 lndy WS104 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Sports GT tires 7 MEDlUM Dry 1966 R106 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Sports GT tires 6 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1966 R125 ZB14 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Gulf tires 9 MEDlUM HARD Dry 1969 R125 ZB11 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Gulf tires 8 MEDlUM lntermediate 1969 R106 ZB11 200-270kpa GT40 MK1 Gulf tires 7 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1969 !"#$ !&'$()*+'*,-. /"#$0!*-$ /"#$0!*-$ '#$00,#$0 -*!$0 1#"' 2$3# )*-."!"*-0 &$3# lndy WS104 R106 lndy WS 112 lndy WS108 R106 WS 112 lndy WS 122 lndy WS 118 R106 WS118 lndy WS 134 R106 WS 134 l-3 lB19 l-3 lB18 R106 ZB11 lndy WS104 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 7 MEDlUM Dry 1966 R106 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 6 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1966 lndy WS 112 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars, endurance tire 6 MEDlUM HARD Dry 1967 lndy WS108 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 7 MEDlUM Dry 1967 R106 WS 112 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 6 MEDlUM HARD All Weather/Wet 1967 lndy WS 122 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars, endurance tire 7 MEDlUM HARD Dry 1968 lndy WS 118 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 8 MEDlUM Dry 1968 R106 WS118 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 7 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1968 lndy WS 134 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 8 MEDlUM Dry 1969 R106 WS 134 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 7 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1969 l-3 lB19 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars, endurance tire 8 MEDlUM HARD Dry 1970-1971 l-3 lB18 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 9 MEDlUM Dry 1970-1971 R106 ZB11 220-270kpa Heavy Touring and GT cars 8 MEDlUM All Weather/Wet 1970-1971 /456789:6 ;1!<= >:? 98@65 7A958 A59898BA67 84567C /456789:6 ;@6>DB !E547F9 >:? 15>: !E547F9 84567C TYRES MANUAL | XI 4 Firestone tyres Firestone tyres start their competitive presence in the races with the advert of more powerful cars that used 15 tyres. From 1966 and on, they would be the tyre of choice for several legendary cars , such as the Ford GT40, AC Shelby Cobras, Ford Mustangs, Chevrolet Corvettes and others. Produced on various compounds and under constant development they provided probably the best compromise between the various tyre manufacturers. For touring and GT cars like the Mustangs and Corvettes, Firestone provided the following compound choices In 1966 there where available two choices, namely the Firestone Indy WS104 that was used primary for dry endurance races and the Firestone R106 (WS104) that was softer and used on wet conditions. In 1967 Firestone introduced the following compounds: Firestone Indy WS 112 as a dry endurance tyre, Firestone Indy WS108 again a dry compound although softer and the Firestone R106 WS 112 mainly used under wet conditions In 1968 Firestone introduced again new compounds. Te Firestone Indy WS 122 was a dry endurance tyre, followed by the Firestone Indy WS 118 with a softer dry compound and the Firestone R106 WS118 soft compound for primarily wet conditions. In 1969 there was only one compound introduction and probably the 1968 compounds where still in use. Firestone Indy WS for dry conditions. Finaly in 1970-71 Firestone introduced 3 new compounds for endurance, dry and wet conditions. Firestone I-3 IB19 as a dry endurance tyre, Firestone I-3 IB18 a softer dry compound and Firestone R106 ZB11 for wet conditions. Firestone also had a dedicated line for the faster prototypes cars that had started appearing in the endurance races, such as the Ford GT40 in diferent variations. In 1966 Firestone Indy WS104 where used for dry endurance with the Firestone R106 WS104 for wet. In 1967 Firestone introduced 3 new compounds. Firestone R125 WS 112 for dry endurance, Firestone R125 WS 108 softer dry compound and Firestone R106 WS 112 for wet conditions In 1968 Firestone again evolves its oferings with 3 new compounds. Firestone Indy WS 122 (dry endurance), Firestone Indy WS 118 (dry) and Firestone R106 WS118 (wet) In 1969 Firestone is once again the choice of the famous GT40 MK1 Gulf cars, and new compounds are created for the extremely fat tyres. Firestone R125 ZB14 for dry conditions, Firestone R125 ZB11 as a frst intermediate tyre and Firestone R106 ZB11 for wet conditions. Te Firestone tyres although still treaded, had very specifc compounds for dry and wet conditions, with diferent tread designs. As such, you should expect each tyre to be more specialized and a tyre change will be needed in variable weather and track conditions. x i i
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W o r k s h o p !""#$%&' ()*+ (-.+/012.1345 !115-+6* !115-+6* .*+773*+7 41(+7 !*). 8+6* 0145)()147 -+6* G7R655 G7R430 COBRA R655 D G20 D G8 A G8 W G16 BLUE STREAK 200-250kpa 6 MEDlUM All Weather 1966-1967 BLUE STREAK 200-250kpa Only fitted on the rear wheels of the 1964 AC Cobras 289c.u. 7 SOFT All Weather 1966-1967 BLUE STREAK 200-250kpa Special tyres and dimensions for the AC Cobra 427c.u. 7 MEDlUM All Weather 1966 BLUE STREAK 180-220Kpa New concept later model, low profile tires. 9 SOFT Dry 1970 BLUE STREAK 180-220Kpa New concept later model, low profile tires. 8 MEDlUM Dry 1970 BLUE STREAK 180-220Kpa New concept later model, low profile tires. 7 MEDlUM All Weather 1970 bLUE STREAK 180-220Kpa New concept later model, low profile tires. 7 SOFT All Weather/Wet 1970 TYRES MANUAL | XIII 5 GoodYear tyres For some reason, it seems there is very little information about GoodYear tyres of that era. What is known is that GoodYear did a quite important marketing operation back in the days, trying to demonstrate that its Blue Streak line tyres where direct derivatives of the racing correspondents. As a matter of fact, GoodYear would ofer just a single compound, suitable for both dry and wet solutions up to 1966. Te only diferent compound available was the G7R430 that was ftted mainly on some 289c.u. Cobras and was used as a rain tyre, given its softer compound. GoodYear also introduced specifc compounds for the AC Shelby 427 Cobras, based mainly on drag racing tyres, something probably needed to tame the amazing amounts of power the 427c.u. engine could deliver. From 1967 and on, GoodYear was forced to introduce diferent and more specialized compounds for dry and wet conditions. By 1970 GoodYear would follow the trend and provide a complete line of various low profle dry and wet compounds. D G20 a soft dry compounds, D G8 a medium dry compound, A G8 as an all weather medium compound and a W G16 as an all weather and/or wet conditions compound, are the variants used in the Power&Glory v2.0 mod. GTL Workshop 2008 http://www.gtlw.co.uk ask@fyingpig.info !"#$%&'("%) ver. 2.0 Tyres Manual