Sergeant House, Unawatuna

Weekend Whirl . . .

SRI LANKA

any number of upmarket places to enjoy lunch. For dinner you can place your order with the inhouse chef. Sri Lankan banquets are the order of the day; and once you specify whether you prefer chicken, meat or seafood, they will prepare a multitude of delicious Sri Lankan dishes; from spicy aubergine and green beans to thick, coconut curries with mounds of rice, pickles and sambar, all washed down with the local beverage. Consistently creative, you will be assured of a spectacular meal, night after night. The house also comes with its own massage room, again beautifully designed with local materials, a high ceiling and trickling fountain outside to put you at ease. Give the staff a little notice and they will arrange for the local professional masseur to give you a treatment. And then, youre literally moments away from your bed, for that all important post-massage nap. Sergeant House is every inch the tropical retreat. Lounge by the pool and you can watch the monkeys eating from the banana trees that line the natural lily pond. Wander down there for a moment of quiet and you will nd yourself surrounded by a lush, verdant garden lled with owers, birds and wildlife. The fact that Mark is a landscape architect is evident in the sophistication of the space, and the experience. It is so diverse a property that you can easily stay here for ten days, spending much time in the house, swimming, eating, reading and generally doing as little as possible, without the remote possibility of boredom.

Unawatuna is one of Sri Lankas most bountiful coastal towns, best experienced in a home away from home
or those of you who havent yet graced the shores of this island paradise, we are here to tell you what youre missing. Now Sri Lanka has been released from the grip of civil war, the tourist industry is thriving. With a ight time of less than ve hours, its an even more attractive prospect for a weekend away from the city, to immerse yourself in a culture so pleasantly uncommercialised that youll instantly forget about the grind of daily life. The west coast is populated by ramshackle villages, old hippy outposts and endless colonial villas revived as charming boutique hotels. Thankfully the big leisure brands havent taken hold, so wherever you choose you will be assured a blissful authenticity, a nearness to native life that is both gentle and vibrant. Unawatuna, in the district of Galle, sits close to the south peak, and is just a 15 minute tuk-tuk ride from the fort city. Famous for its beaches; they stretch long and wide, and its great coral dives, its a popular base for travellers. And while you can rough it in the many hostels that teeter over the beachfront, we recommend you stay at Sergeant House, a beautifully renovated traditional villa just a few steps away from the sea. Developed from a cluster of buildings, owner Mark Smoot has created a little paradise that skirts both road and jungle. Three buildings cup the large innity pool that encircles the openfronted dining and living area. While the aesthetics of the house are sympathetic to local architecture, the layout, with its small shaded courtyards, hidden gardens and open plan style is an excercise in relaxed, contemporary living. We loved the living options; from the breezy second oor Sea Pavilion to the ground oor Pool Pavilion that is bright and romantic its doors opening out onto the estate, and the homely split level bungalow with master bedroom, galleried oor to accommodate up to four and cosy living area with access to the pool and a small garden. Our tip is to make it a group escapade and book the entire house - it feels absolutely luxurious to have the run of the place. Everywhere you look, you will see evidence of Marks attention to detail; the accessories in the bathrooms, little sculptures everywhere, amazing art on exterior walls and the divine hanging pod - the perfect place to while away a morning with a cup of Sri Lankan tea and a good book. For those used to the Dubai lifestyle, there are a bank of staff on hand to ensure youre well looked after. Breakfast is a three course affair served in the dining room, where you can enjoy freshly made yoghurts, fruits picked that very morning and European or local style eggs all beautifully made and presented. For lunch you can head out to any of the little cafes that line the beach, or take a tour into Galle where there are

THE DETAILS

Emirates y direct to Colombo daily from Dhs1,845. Try and opt for a night ight to minimise on transfer times due to trafc congestion. Transfers take around 2 hours and can be arranged through Sergeant House, from approximately Dhs260. Exchange your dirhams for rupees after going through customs to get the best rate, and avoid using dollars while travelling. Sergeant House, from around Dhs480 per night for the pool pavillion, ranging to Dhs1,840 per night for the whole villa.

THINGS TO DO

Day trip to Galle wander along the endless walls of the fort, lunch at the Galle Fort Hotel, peruse the little galleries, craft shops and jewellery boutiques and enjoy a sundowner on the terrace of the Rampart Hotel. Day trip to Kandi hire a car and driver to take you to the elephant mecca of Sri Lanka. Its a long drive but worth it to watch the mahoots washing the elephants in the river. Visit the local elephant orphanage and take a ride on one if you dare. Turtle sanctuary these gentle creatures have made Sri Lanka their home in their thousands. All sanctuaries across the island nurse sick turtles and rescue the eggs before releasing the hatchlings back into the sea. Diving the Unawatuna Dive centre is PADI accredited, so you can learn or advance your skills while enjoying the spectacular coral reef.

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WORDS BY RUE KOTHARI, PHOTOGRAPH BY RUSS KIENTSCH