Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
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SINDHU NAIR DEBRINA ALIYAH ABIGAIL MATHIAS EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI AYSWARYA MURTHY ROB ALTAMIRANO VENKAT REDDY HANAN ABU SIAM AYUSH INDRAJITH MAHESHWAR REDDY B ZULFIKAR JIFFRY THOMAS JOSE HASAN REKKAB LYDIA YOUSSEF KANWAL BALUCH PRATAP CHANDRAN BIKRAM SHRESTHA ARJUN TIMILSINA BHIMAL RAI
PHOTOGRAPHER SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER SENIOR MANAGER MARKETING ASSISTANT MANAGER - MARKETING SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANTS
All you Instagram fans, put your photo snapping skills to test and stand a chance to win QR1,000 vouchers from Loccitane! We are celebrating our birthday and we want you to join in the fun! Snap a photo of yourself with any issue of GLAM from 2013 and tag us,@glamqatar on Instagram! Contest ends Dec 31.
MARKETING RESEARCH & SUPPORT EXECUTIVE SENIOR ACCOUNTANT SR. DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT
BASANTHA.P
PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF
COMING UP
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We bid goodbye to 2013 and welcome 2014 with an issue focusing on a sense of renewal both sartorially and spiritually. Get tips on how to renew and recycle your wardrobe, as well as exclusive interviews and a recap of the biggest fashion event in Qatar of 2013, the Fashion Exchange. Photo credit Emilia Wickstead.
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32 \ STYLE THIS
All in One printed leather shoulder bag, Marc Jacobs, Villaggio Mall, QR4,865
A DRESS
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
THE JUNGLE
The contrast satin panel on this dress is what drew us to it the moment we saw it on the runway. A different twist from the usual flowing and more feminine cuts we usually see from Alice Temperley, this tuxedo-inspired dress makes a good alternative for the party season this year-end. Not only does it enhance an elongated silhouette to your body, it makes a great match to your partners tuxedo ensemble too! The solid colour base is a great canvas to experiment with different accessories and we are thinking animal prints for the complete power look.
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SA VE SPLURGE
VS
Dress your way into the inner realms of luxury with the ultimate black and gold colour combo, made covetable this season with the Minaudiere box clutches. These sturdy beauties are party-ready for almost any occasion and, if anything, the box structure is great to protect your stuff even if you drop your purse. Rock these black and gold ensembles from day to night with our casual and dressy options.
BLACK GOLD
3
SA VE
4
1 Pattern Knit Jumper, QR200 2 Pattern Knit Skirt, QR200 3 Jacquard Gold Dress, QR251 4 Dipped Hem Maxi, QR200 5 Box Clutch, QR100 6 Dual Panel Satchel, QR100
SPLURGE
1 Antik Batik embellished mini dress,
Fifty One East, Lagoona Mall, QR2,361 2 Beaded tiger sweater, Kenzo, Porto Arabia, QR2,072 3 Minaudiere Clutch, Sergio Rossi, Porto Arabia, QR10,657 4 Carolina Herrera Lace Maxi, Carolina Herrera, Villaggio Mall, price upon request. 5 Flap over crossover bag, M Missoni, Porto Arabia, QR 2,207
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HEELBOPPS
Only the most functional and stylish thing to hit our radar thus far, HeelBopps! If you, like the rest of us mortal beings, do not usually get chauffeured from place to place, you probably worry about damaging your precious heels. Worry no more; HeelBopps is a smart new invention to protect your heels when walking in unchartered territories. HeelBopps fit onto any heel of more than 6cm in height and are easy to put on and remove. The cute contraption now comes in different colours, embellishments, and may we say, it even adds a little zest to your shoe design. Available from coilex.bigcartel.com with prices starting from QR191 per pair.
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TRENDS / 35
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GET ACTIVE
The hottest look that has been hitting the streets is the return of the sporting range. Mixing it up with some elements of street wear meets gym clothes; rock this trend for a casual weekend or for an on-the-go busy day. The hoodies are perfect to keep warm this winter while the body suit is a great solution to keeping it all in. Add a touch of high-end designer with Victoria Beckhams cross body satchel.
Fold over pants, Oysho boutique, Landmark Mall, QR125 GLAM_DECEMBER_2013_FINAL.indd 36 12/2/13 10:06 AM
TRENDS / 37
Gym wear get-up, Oysho boutique, Landmark Mall, Sweater; QR150, Pants; QR125, Shoes; QR195.
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December comes around again, and this season of holidays and celebrations beckons for a great essential rotation of glamourous party outfits and accessories. For the full-on disco queen, the Lanvin pumps with rhinestone detailing is an absolute must, while the classic pumps from Alexander McQueen make a perfect finish to a classy affair. Keep your dresses at knee-length this season to show off your perfectly toned calves and accessorise with a touch of rose gold, the preferred metal of the season.
Appliqud stretch wool-blend dress, Bottega Veneta boutique, Villaggio Mall, QR13,689
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TRENDS / 39
Pearl Embellished Suede Pumps, Alexander McQueen boutique, Porto Arabia, QR6,548
Tom Ford Nail Lacquer Bordeaux Lust, Salam Studio & Stores, QR152
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Patchwork and Knitted lace design top, Missoni Boutique, The Gate, QR2,289
One of the biggest puzzles in life includes searching for the ultimate pair of jeans that fits you now and forever. A few lucky ones may have already found THE ONE and you are probably over wearing them to fashion death! This season, Salsa comes up with the ultimate denim fit guide in different ranges and cuts, depending on your style quotient. We trend spot two favourite styles at GLAM, the boyfriend cut and the push-up cut. Once you have the pair of jeans nailed down, everything else just kind of falls into place, be it a simple tee or a pullover sweater.
DENIM SOLUTION
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TRENDS / 41
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BAG FROM
BELGIUM
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
THE
This Belgiumshaped bag was created by Delvaux for Princess Claire who carried the little purse for the countrys 2005 National Day celebration. The Royal family regularly brings Delvaux goods as gifts during their official trips abroad.
IF THE QUIRKY MASTERPIECES OF RENE MAGRITTE ARE THE EMBODIMENT OF THE SPIRIT OF BELGIAN ARTISTIC GESTURES, IT IS ONE THAT IS THOUGHT-PROVOKING AND SUBTLE. IN THE SAME ESSENCE, WE HAVE SEEN MANY BELGIAN TALENTS WHO PUSH BOUNDARIES AND PERCEPTIONS IN THEIR WORK, THE LIKES OF DIRK BIKKEMBERGS, MARTIN MARGIELA, DRIES VAN NOTEN AND OF COURSE, THE MAN OF THE MOMENT, RAF SIMONS.
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HERITAGE / 43
The Leadership bag from 1958
Artisans cutting leather in 1951. The leather experts work with special tanneries to ensure that they receive leathers of the exact colour swatches and quality as desired.
The Golden Book, created by Franz, documents all the houses creations
The Newspaper Bag designed by Bruno Pieters for Delvauxs AW 2008 collection
SO
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when Franz Schwennicke began cataloguing the bags of Delvaux, a company he had taken over in the 1930s, it was kind of an inherent nationalistic identity at work. The Livre dOr (the Golden Book), the first of its kind, recorded in detail the original designs of each bag and its designer. Not only had Franz protected the designs from counterfeiting with the book, he became the first person to develop the concept of seasonal collections for handbags. The history of Delvaux began some 184 years ago, when Charles Delvaux and his wife Jeanne-Joseph Present registered their workshop on Rue de lEmpereur in 1829. But what we most recognise today as Delvaux, the purveyor of luxury handbags, was masterminded by the Schwennicke
family in the post-war era. The original Delvaux-Present families were involved in saddlery, coach-building, dressmaking, and trade, and were skilled in leather, metal, and woodworking. This legacy had helped Charles excel at the crafting of leather trunks, earning the house the royal warrant of Belgium. The distinctive element that separated Delvaux trunks in that era from its European contemporaries was the bowl-shaped lids of the trunk covers. The rainy weather of Belgium had dictated the design to prevent rainwater from collecting on the cases. His trunks were later also described by restorer Jean-Pierre Ball of the BelMal Museum (a private Belgian museum specialising in antique and vintage trunks) as overly strong, with distinctive iron cladding that
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44 \ HERITAGE
A magazine advertisement from 1955 showing a woman clutching a Delvaux bag while shopping for fabrics.
The Tempete bag is one of the top-line signature bags from Delvaux. It is a classic shape that was made popular in the 70s. This gorgeous alligator version in Goldfinger colour is available for order.
widened towards the bottom and an extra row of brass nails hammered into the metal cladding strips. The uncertainty of war and materials shortage sealed the fate of Delvaux, and in 1933, when Franz had come to acquire the house, it was only down to a storefront and an old name. Intrigued by the heritage of the name, Franz was determined to bring Delvaux back to its glory on the foundation of its original essence, high quality manufacture, original designs and durable products. With the introduction of the creative studio, the technical department and the atelier, Franz laid down the foundation of a luxury handbag house. His creation, the Avia suitcase cast with a lightweight aluminum frame, was such a success in 1946 that it paved the way for a burst of creative energy within the brand. It was in that era that Delvaux produced dozens of original designs in seasonal collections echoing the haute couture industry of France. he next defining chapter for Delvaux came with the passing of Franz in 1970, and the company was taken over by his wife, Solange Schwennicke. Solange was a real trailblazer who fought to win respect as a female entrepreneur, an uncommon phenomenon in that era, and putting Delvaux on the luxury map against its bigger French and English rivals. Her efforts were well rewarded when Delvaux flourished in the 1980s when luxury
In 1980, Solange encountered a student at the Antwerp Academy who needed help in manufacturing a retractable bag with a metal clasp for his accessories collection. She arranged for the student to work together with Delvauxs technical team to create the bag. The student was Martin Margiela.
leather goods became extremely popular and Solanges status as Belgiums most prominent female CEO was celebrated. Though the house has become the icon of luxury in its own home country, its global expansion has only begun recently through a partnership with its new owners, Fung Brands Limited. The Signature Bags The Brilliant is Delvauxs most iconic piece that debuted at the Brussels World Fair in 1958. A single top handle piece that is anchored by one buckle, the bag was originally presented in the classic Box Calf leather but today, the bag is offered in various leathers, colours and versions to suit the contemporary market. To celebrate the bags 50th birthday in 2008, the atelier created the 10 Moods of the Brilliant, where the bags were given different reincarnations to depict different statements. The bags have been travelling around the world as an art installation.
The Simplissime tote is the perfect casual everyday bag. This Cadence leather version is available for QR9,600.
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HERITAGE / 45
After spending nearly 40 years in Delvaux, Benelcaid is one of the most senior artisans in the atelier. He pioneers development and research in leather crafting.
The house is held in high regards for its work in exotic leathers.
The Brilliant Pochette in Porosus crocodile leather, a clutch variation of the original Brilliant bag.
Another understated signature piece is the Tempete that first came to life in 1967. Also a top handle piece, the bag features an interesting dual buckle and strap, and is also available in different materials and colours. The Craftsmanship Every Delvaux bag is made lovingly by hand in the atelier in Brussels where the artisans work in teams to complete each piece. Each individual design has its own intricate construction, for example, the houses signature Brilliant bag is handstitched together from 64 different pieces of leather. Delvaux has a very unique, almost revered, relationship with its leathers. The artisans understand that the basis of every good masterpiece comes from the perfect leathers. While three quarters of Delvaux bags are produced in calfskin, the house is also held in high regards for its work in exotic leathers that goes beyond just crocodile and ostrich skins. The design studio, playing on this strength, combines different materials when designing bags to give the pieces truly unique voices of their own. The crafting of these bags has become an emotional journey for the truly dedicated artisans. Mohammed Benelcaid, who has
I would say hello, and tell them that I made the bag that they are carrying and ask for their feedback.
been in the Delvaux workshop since 1973, says that he often strikes up conversations with women who are carrying Delvaux bags. I would say hello, and tell them that I made the bag that they are carrying and ask for their feedback. Mohammed also teaches at Brussels Institut des Arts et Metiers, a highly popular craftsmen school as it is the only one that uses Delvaux leathers in its classes.
The first Delvaux boutique in the Middle East is now open at Porto Arabia, The Pearl.
The East-West is a reincarnation of the original Brilliant bag, presented here in Envolee leather, is available for QR21,000.
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64 \ STYLE PROFILE
DURING ONE HOLY MONTH OF RAMADAN, ANUM DECIDED TO EMBARK ON A FASHION EXPERIMENT. SHE DESIGNED A WEEKS WORTH OF JALABIYAS AND WORE THEM TO WORK EVERY DAY.
CHIC
DESERT
ANUM BASHIR
ithout fail, she was approached by different women every day to ask about the dresses and where they could get their hands on them. Women in Doha are desperately seeking for something different. Everyone wanted something new, something unique, Anum explained. Known in the blogosphere as the Desert Mannequin, Anum feels strongly of the need for individual style and abhors blind followers of trends. There is just something so blas about seeing copies of women wearing the same thing all over. On her blog, she shares her inspirations and posts daily outfits.
01
My personal style is ever changing. However, I find myself incredibly drawn to androgynous fashion. I love menswear on women.
I HAVE LOVED styling and pretty much anything fashion related for as long as I can remember, so I kind of owed it to myself to start blogging about it. My take on fashion was something I truly wanted to share. So in a way reading my morning blogs at breakfast everyday further pushed me to get started, especially because not a lot of people here in Doha actually blog about their personal style. MY PERSONAL STYLE is ever changing. However, I find myself incredibly drawn to androgynous fashion. I love menswear on women. Recently, I find myself buying clothes that are a lot simpler, clean cut, monochromatic, and that are both masculine and feminine at the same time. Brands like Celine, Alexander Wang, Saint Laurent, and Phillip Lim, are the looks I generally tend to lean towards. Nothing looks more elegant than a crisp white dress shirt with say, black slacks or a great pair of jeans. Ive also been loving suits on women, and have bought a couple lately. I will occasionally indulge in a bold print or some fabulous colour if its appropriate for the event Im going to. Your clothes are an extension of who you are. Youll know you look good when you feel confident and have your head held high as soon as you walk out your door. MY STYLE INSPIRATION is Miranda Kerr. She is always so impeccably dressed. She looks so effortlessly put together. Lately, Ive also been loving how Nicole Richie dresses. She tends to incorporate more androgynous and minimalist pieces into her wardrobe such as tailored shirts and brogues. Im a true fan of Style Heroines Evangelie, and The Man Repellers Leandra. They have a fabulous and fun take on fashion, and have tastes very much in line with mine.
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02
03
1 Shirt: Zegna
Jeans: Citizen of Humanity Shoes: Prada Hat: Mango Necklace: Urban Outfitters
2 Shirt: Miu Miu
4 Blazer: Stella
04
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05
5 Dress: Zara
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74 \ SPECIAL
Variante
Najjah
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Azura Azwa
Debaj Collection
Saraya Zahret
Saraya Zahret
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Azura Azwa
Azura Azwa
Najjah
Variante
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NOT
I would often look at major fashion weeks and think how great it would be if we could adapt those pieces to the Islamic way of dressing.
SPECIAL / 77
that it is a concept all new to this region, especially where style makers have long used the abaya as a blank canvas to express their personal style; the colourful peeks of dresses from under the hems, the accessories galore, and the statement shoes and bags. But at the recent Sheikhahub event at the W Hotel Doha, it is evident that the power of Islamic fashion, or modest dressing, has come forth further than just abayas. The shimmering kaftan dresses, the pairing of voluminous separates and the ingenious different styles of head coverings seemed like a spectacular avant-garde presentation, albeit bare skin. The designers who presented their works at the show had come from two parts of the world, South East Asia and the Middle East, bringing together a common principle of fashion and modesty. Debaj Collection and Dar Naseem Alandalos shared the runway with the four featured Malaysian designers while other Arab labels including Fufistylist, Palestyle, Das Collection and The Kayys were presented at the showcase. Sheikhahub, a Malaysian initiative, is a platform to assist entrepreneurs dedicated to the development of Islamic fashion. The collective runs various events from shows to networking sessions in Malaysia and around the world to help promote the fashion businesses of its members. Sheikhahubs founder Datin Norzihan Ahmad, a prominent women empowerment figure in Malaysia, spearheaded the initiative in an effort to not only promote fashion but also encourage female entrepreneurship. The Qatar fashion show, in collaboration with Design Creationz Qatar, was organised as part of the Visit Malaysia 2014 tourism
effort and was attended by the wives of the prime ministers of both Qatar and Malaysia; Sheikha Alanoud bint Abdalrahman Althani and Datin Seri Rosmah Mansor. The Malaysian Designers Farah Adeeba and Nurul Azwin are the creative forces behind Najjah, a well-established label that focuses on affordable pieces. I would often look at major fashion weeks and think how great it would be if we could adapt those pieces to the Islamic way of dressing. And then I decided to start Najjah, creating stylish and affordable fashion that is modest at the same time, says Farah. Within a few years, Najjah was so well-received that the business now has an extended wholesale arm to cater to the growing market in Malaysia. Farah has also created a new platform, Women of Jannah, a collective of Islamic fashion brands that serves to help her fellow entrepreneurs. Contrary to the fashion world globally, we are very focused on helping one another. I was lucky to have mentors who taught me the ways of the business and I want to do the same now for upcoming labels, Farah says. Another design duo Azura Liyana and Azwa Elana who run the label AzuraAzwa, are the local Islamic fashion darlings in Malaysia. Highly received by the press for their cutting edge and contemporary pieces, the brand specialises in voluminous cuts that flatter all body shapes. But what really shot the label into international limelight were their luscious turbans and headwear. The turban is really making a comeback especially with the younger generation and it is not only for Muslim women. Our turbans are trendy and versatile for any occasion, says Azura. The two-year-old label Saraya Zahret has risen quickly to success. In the short time since its inception, the brand now includes diffusion lines From Jenna To Jo focusing on the younger clientele, Zahret Fabulosity With Curves focusing on plus-size clients and Tweenkle Zahret for the little ones. The signature pieces include cutting skirts and palazzo pants which form the staple basis towards modest dressing. And the thorn among the roses at Sheikhahubs Qatar showing was Leslie Variyan, the designer behind one of the most established ready-to-wear labels in Malaysia, Variante. Variante is renowned for itsgorgeous chiffon and fluid pieces adorned with stone embellishments. I had started out making shirts but somehow I was just attracted to the beauty of kaftans and dresses, says Leslie.
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