VW Type 3 and 4 Fuel Injection Fuel Pump Overhaul

Electric Fuel Pump Basic Operation

Pump is mounted below fuel tank and gravity fills pump rotor chamber expelling air via a small groove in the pressure relief valve ( PRV ) piston, priming pump, see Figure !" Fi ure ! "

#ith pump running the $uantity and pressure is such that the PRV piston opens and fuel is delivered to the system, see Figure %" &he actual pressure being controlled by the engine mounted pressure control valve" Fi ure ! #

'hould a total blockage occur somewhere in the fuel system, the PRV piston is pushed back farther and fuel is returned to the tank, Figure (" Fi ure ! 3

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Electric Fuel Pump $ervicin

" % Pump will not run -ismantling pump head

.efore commencing to dismantle pump head, locate and note the position of the indentation mark in the centre rotor plate, which is to one side of the electrical connection" &his plate can be reassembled in / different ways and the pump will only work with it in the correct orientation, see white mark in picture"

,nce the ) screws have been loosened, which is the hardest part of the +ob, the pump head can be dismantled and cleaned" .asically the pump is very simple, but it should be noted that there are 0 loose rollers inside, and once opened check the small rotor drive pin" *t should be possible to reuse the ,1rings" .efore reassembling the pump, lubricate rotor and rollers with paraffin2 normally the rotor and motor bearings are lubricated by the petrol" *t will be seen that centre plate is not centrali3ed by the ) fixing screws and this can cause the pump to +am" 4s the pump is reassembled apply side pressure as illustrated below" .efore fully tightening screws, run the pump briefly" 'ome trial and error may be necessary before the pump will run with all the screws completely tightened

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# % Pump runs but will not pump

.locked air vent

&he most likely reason for a pump to run but not pump is that the very small groove in the PVR piston is blocked and causing an airlock" &his will especially be the case for an old pump that has not run for sometime (and let5s face it, most are already (6 to (0 or more years old)" &he pump must have fuel in the rotor chamber as it cannot pump +ust air" &he piston is chromed, running in a chromed cylinder, so it is unlikely to have rusted, but it is more likely to have +ammed due to the lac$uer that forms from petrol over time" 7y personal solution to the problem is to very carefully prise back the piston against the spring with a suitable si3ed screwdriver as shown below and break the lac$uer bond, fill behind the piston with penetrating fluid and then connect an electric tyre inflator directly to the return no33le" 4s the pressure increases it pushes the piston back, and after % or ( goes it should clear the vent if you are lucky" &he piston has a rubber tip which can very easily be damaged, and also any burr caused by the action of the screwdriver against the alloy pump head must be removed" &he pump head is a &eflon coated alloy so it is probably best to cut away any burr with a sharp knife rather than relap the whole face" Removing the whole piston and spring assembly should only be considered as the very last resort2 the aluminium caps are easier to prise off than the steel caps, but after thirty years or more the aluminium can be so corroded that they almost disintegrate" 4lternatively before dismantling the PRV try using a spray1can of 8arb 8leaner where the no33le is usually fitted with a very fine tube, which can be inserted down inside the return no33le, and blast out any gunge that may have built up behind the piston"

9im 4dney in the :'4 recommends storing spare pumps and also fuel in+ectors in suitable containers immersed in paraffin" &his should stop ,1rings etc", from drying out and things going rusty, which sounds a very good idea, especially in the case of the piston and vent groove in the fuel pump pressure relieve valve"

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3 % 7otor case leak

Removing motor case

:sing various si3es of screwdrivers prise up the 0 positions where the edge of the motor case is clenched over around the pump head, you will need strong wrists and some patience" #ith the pump head carefully held in a vice, use a blunt or soft drift to drive off the casing working around the 0 positions in turn" ,nce the case has started to move it can usually be pulled off by hand using very slight up and down and side to side movements (remembering that the motor shaft end bearing is built into the casing)" 4s the casing is removed, take care not to lose the thrust washers from the end of the internal shaft2 these will most likely to drawn to the magnets that are fixed to the inside of the case" #ith the case removed dress the 0 areas that were clenched over as smooth as possible taking care not to damage the ,1ring sealing area inside of the casing" &hen clean this sealing area and the ,1ring groove" * finally polish these areas with paint rubbing1down cream" :sing a new lightly oiled or greased ,1ring and with the thrust washers replaced on the motor shaft slide on the case ( +ust to be sure * apply a very light smear of non1setting sealer to the area in front of the ,1ring taking extra care not to contaminate the ,1 ring and its groove)" &here is only one way that the casing can be refitted due to the cut1out for the electrical connection block" Finally lightly tap the casing hard up against the shoulder of the pump head, and then working around the case re1clench casing"

4 % Replacement ,1ring -etails 7etric si3es 1111 7otor casing ,ne 1 )/mm inside dia x %"0mm Pump head &wo 1 (6mm inside dia x %"6mm PRValve ,ne 1 !6mm inside dia x %"6mm *mperial si3es 111 7otor casing Pump head PRValve ,ne 1 !"/;%< inside dia x 6"!6(< 1 .' =o !() &wo 1 !"!>;< inside dia x 6"6>6< 1 .' =o 6%0 ,ne 1 6"(;)<inside dia x 6"6>6< 1 .' =o 6!%

4ll =itrile type, hardness >6 shore" Warnin &! &ake all necessary care and precautions when test running pump as flammable li$uids and electricity do not go well together, and eyes should be protected when carrying out any pressure testing" ? @eorge &unks %660
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