GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 59

Jura & Savoie

Wink Lorch
Few skiers heading to Courchevel or Val d’Isère notice
the exit to the sleepy village of Cevins. But, if they
looked, they might see a steep, terraced, south-facing
slope lined with wooden posts dominating the village.
These are the recently established vineyards
of the new Domaine des Ardoisières, which
produces Vin de Pays d’Allobrogie.
June 2003 saw the official inauguration of
Domaine des Ardoisières, established by well-
known Savoie vigneron Michel Grisard, owner
of the biodynamic Domaine Prieuré Saint
Christophe in Fréterive. It followed six years
of planning, persuasion, and hard graft.
WINK LORCH Grisard’s dream was to rescue the hillside
and restore the vineyards, abandoned since the early 1980s. Before the
technically difficult job of taming this steep and wild landscape could
begin, agreement had to be reached with more than 400 landowners for
an area of under 10 hectares (ha). Fortunately, the village mayor and
most of the villagers were keen to restore the terraces, dry-stone walls,
and even the sartos (vineyard cabins).
Domaine des Ardoisières (meaning ‘slate quarry’) lies mainly on solid
rock of mica-schist, a type of slate, and it proved initially too hard to work
using organic techniques. However, conversion is well under way now that
the oldest vines are four years old. A total of 5 ha is currently planted,
with two more planned, though plantings made in 2002 were badly

WINK LORCH is a wine writer and educator with a passion for the mountains
and a chalet in the Haute Savoie. She is a past chairman of the Association of
Wine Educators and has contributed to several books, including Time-Life’s The
Wine Guide, The Global Wine Encyclopedia, and Le Cordon Bleu’s Wine Essentials. Wink
particularly enjoys enthusing about wines from vineyards in sight of snowcapped
mountains, whether the Andes, the Alps, or the Jura. She divides her time
between the UK and the French Alps.
60 WINE REPORT 2005 GLOBAL REPORTS GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 61

affected by the 2003 drought. About three-quarters is planted to white ORGANIC GROWTH
varieties, with Altesse and Jacquère dominating, along with Roussanne,
Three large Jura estates are now
Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Mondeuse Blanche, and Malvoisie. The most worked organically: from 2003,
planted red variety is Persan, with a smaller amount of Mondeuse. Domaine Pignier, with 15 ha, has been
An old village house has been bought for future use as a vinification in conversion to biodynamic viticulture;
cellar and visitor sales centre. Tourism is considered important and already Domaine de la Pinte (30 ha) and
there are organized vineyard walks in summer. The first vintage in 2002 Domaine A et M Tissot (32 ha) both
was small and the 2003 vintage even smaller due to the drought. now have full Ecocert certification,
However, in 2002, three blended Vin de Pays d’Allobrogie were made: with Stéphane Tissot also exploring
Améthiste, a red; Schiste, a light dry white based on Jacquère; and the biodynamic methods. Together with
several smaller estates, this gives an
flagship Quartz, based on Altesse. A late-harvest wine is planned too.
estimated 110 ha of Jura vineyards
The Quartz 2002 showed good weight and potential, with a really stony
now farmed organically, about 7 per
flavour. Should the project prove a success, it is possible that other
cent of the total area, more than
hillsides further up the Tarentaise Valley may be planted in the future. double the average for France. Antoine
Pignier, recently appointed president of
Jura pioneer dies
the Comité Technique Viticole in Jura,
Henri Maire, founder of Jura’s largest domaine and négociant house, died comments that, with the marnes soil
in November 2003, aged 86. Maire is credited by many as the person (a type of heavy clay) and steep
who did most to revive and promote the Jura region after World War II. slopes, working the soil organically
Writer Gerald Asher, who imported Henri Maire’s wines to the UK in the provides more stability and vines are
1960s, commented, “The region owes a great deal to him.” looking healthier as a result. In
Savoie, Domaine Belluard in the Ayze
After inheriting his father’s small vineyards in 1939, Maire gradually
cru, inspired by Michel Grisard, has
built up the family estate to its current 300 ha, nearly 20 per cent of the
converted half of its vineyards (more
total Jura region. In 1950, he launched a sparkling wine with the not-so-
than 6 ha) to biodynamic viticulture,
crazy brand name Vin Fou, making it a household name in France through and Gilles Berlioz in Chignin is
distinctive roadside advertisements. He was media-savvy and known for making waves with his first
his stunts, even promoting vin jaune at the Tour d’Argent in Paris by organically certified Chignin Bergeron
donating a barrel to age in their cellars. 2002 from 1.2 ha.
Officially retired in 1985, Henri Maire remained involved in the
company until 1996 and could be seen checking out new technology Grapevine
at trade shows well into his 80s.
• The VDQS Vin du Bugey statute has
been rewritten in the hope that this
Grapevine will hasten the area’s application for
promotion to AOC. Vin du Bugey is
• Top Mondeuse producers, including A natural spring has been identified and currently top of the INAO list of France’s
Louis Magnin and Domaine Genoux in no vines may be planted within a wide VDQS regions in line for promotion.
Arbin in the Combe de Savoie, have area around it. Growers have offered to
demanded a review of a recent decision farm new plantings in the zone using • The AOC Crépy Syndicat has
by the Savoie département forbidding environmentally friendly methods. applied to the INAO for the right to
new plantings on one of the best sites. include the term “Vin de Savoie” on the
label. Apparently no one knows where
Crépy is, despite it being one of the
region’s oldest appellations.
TESTING TIME FOR
CHÂTEAU-CHALON
Permitted for release only in 2004,
Château-Chalon 1997 is the first
vintage to undergo compulsory
testing (agrément) before release by
an approved and trained committee
of tasters, under the auspices of the
INAO (Institut National des
Appellations d’Origine). President of
the Château-Chalon syndicate Denis
Bury believes that this has already
had a positive effect on quality. More
vignerons now employ a laboratory to
monitor the progress of their wines
during their six years in barrel sous
voile (under a film of yeast), so very
few rejections are expected. All 17
wines submitted to the first tasting in
December 2003 were approved. Other
vins jaunes, also compulsorily aged for
six years and three months, do not go
through this testing, having, like all
AOC wines, simply been tested a few
months after harvest. The president of
the Jura Comité wants to see what
improvements there are in Château-
Chalon before suggesting to the INAO
that all vins jaunes should go through
this process.
• Two Savoie domaines are up for sale.
Pierre Boniface, a well-known Apremont
producer and one of the few exporters,
wishes to sell his estate and small
négociant business, but a buyer has yet
to offer the right price. Meanwhile,
Domaine G & G Bouvet continues to
trade actively, despite Madame Bouvet’s
assertion last year that the future of the
business was in question.
62 WINE REPORT 2005 GLOBAL REPORTS GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 63

Opinion:
Labelling must be addressed
At present, many Jura wines are labelled with the simple AOC (Arbois,
Côtes du Jura, or Etoile) but no mention of grape variety or, even more
importantly, style. This is a big problem, especially if the sales and
reputation of these wines are to extend beyond the very local market.
Many white wines are still made in the traditional oxidized, or partly
oxidized, style – aged under voile (a layer of yeast similar to flor and
essential for vin jaune production). Others are made in the more
conventional, fresher, burgundian way of topping up barrels or vats
completely. Some producers name the former style typé or tradition and
the latter floral, but there is no agreed standard term and the two styles
of wine taste completely different. Some producers do not state the grape
variety either, so the wine may be Chardonnay, Savagnin, or a blend of
the two. Current appellation laws permit the naming of a single variety,
but not a blend. No term will please all producers, but a solution must be
found to eliminate the current confusion and this may well involve full
cooperation between regional wine bodies and the INAO. Rumours are
rife that meetings are being held between the more modern producers
and the local official bodies on this subject. It is certain that something
must be changed soon, whether it is a compulsory back-label explanation
or a completely new appellation system for white wines.
thin, acidic wines to wash down a fondue or tartiflette. The worst quality
is to be found in the largest and best-known crus of Apremont and
Abymes. The Comité Interprofessionnel has taken steps to improve this
by invoking the INAO initiative to check systematically on yields in the
vineyards at the véraison stage, by taking the new AOC agrément laws
seriously, and by practising random sampling in local shops and
restaurants. This is none too soon, but still not strict enough. With the
French wine consumer becoming more demanding, Savoie needs to be
very careful to maximize its potential. The culprits should listen carefully
to the views of proprietors of the leading quality estates.
Cerdon authenticity under threat
Cerdon VDQS, the sparkling rosé from the Bugey region, may currently
be made either by the méthode traditionnelle or the méthode ancestrale.
Since Cerdon is the only quality rosé sparkling wine to be made by the
méthode ancestrale, the region is officially seeking to promote this by
phasing out méthode traditionnelle wines by 2008.
However, the large Boisset-owned Varichon et Clerc in Seyssel currently
sells only méthode traditionnelle Cerdon but, confusingly, also markets
Pellin Rosé Vin Mousseux Demi-Sec, labelled “Méthode Ancestrale” and
made from bought-in (probably Loire) Gamay. Elsewhere in the region,
many carbonated rosé vins mousseux are made from grapes bought
outside and sold side by side with Cerdon. If the Cerdon appellation is to
mean anything, this practice should be stopped.

Straw law needs to be flexible Grapevine

The rules on vin de paille production need to be reviewed to give growers • Jean-Paul Crinquand, a leading
grower of the Arbois cooperative,
more flexibility. At present, vin de paille is required to have a minimum of took on the presidency of the Comité
14.5 per cent alcohol (actual, not potential) and three years in oak. This Interprofessionnel des Vins du Jura in
limits the styles that can be produced and often results in unbalanced April 2003 for a three-year term.
He sees his main task as uniting the
wines. Indeed, some producers have produced a similar style of wine, but different personalities, and he believes
outside the auspices of the appellation. If the appellation is to survive, the that, with so many different wine styles
law should specify only minimum potential alcohol at the pressing stage already, producers should not seek
to market new styles that are not
and back labels should be used to describe the style. traditional to the area.
Pressure mounts on bad producers • The very early harvest meant that
many Jura producers pressed grapes for
The quality of wines sold by some local négociants and small growers in vin de paille twice in 2003, once for the
2002 vintage in January/February, and
Savoie is still too low, bringing down the image of the area. The tourist
then again for the 2003 vintage in
market (principally the winter-sports visitors) is all too easy to satisfy with October/November.
• The beautiful Château du Lucey in
Jongieux, owned by the head of the
Casino supermarket chain, is to take
over more than 2 ha of old Mondeuse
and Altesse vineyards for the 2004
vintage. This will take the total holding
of this estate, created in 1992, up to
5.5 ha of Altesse, Mondeuse, and
Pinot Noir.
• Percée du Vin Jaune 2005, the
biggest annual Jura wine festival,
celebrating the newly released 1998
vins jaunes, will take place over the
weekend of 5–6 February 2005 in the
village of St-Lothain.
64 WINE REPORT 2005 GLOBAL REPORTS
Vintage Report
Advance report on the latest harvest
2003
Jura – A hot wind during the heat wave of August gave an unprecedented
3 per cent increase in potential alcohol in the week 3–10 August. Harvest
started soon after, around five weeks earlier than average – the earliest
harvest since 1822. Chardonnay grapes were too ripe for Crémant du Jura,
but, on the other hand, the extraordinarily healthy grapes were ideal for
making vins de paille and a greater quantity than usual may be produced.
However, overall quantities are extremely small, having been reduced in
many places by frost damage earlier in the year, as well as localized hail.
Production is, on average, 30 per cent down. For Trousseau and Poulsard,
the small amount of juice in the grapes gave deeper colours and more
powerful flavours than normal, posing an interesting potential. The quality
of Chardonnays will depend partly on site (ironically, the best-exposed
having suffered most) and the cellar-handling of acidity levels. The
development of Savagnin wines, including vins jaunes, remains the big
unknown in this unusual year. The Jura normally markets its wines after
several years of ageing, whether in barrel sous voile or topped up, but the
2003s could well be ready sooner than anyone expects.
Savoie – With harvest almost completed during the last fortnight of
August, this normally overwet region suffered badly in places from drought
and heat. Raisining on the vine was a big problem in certain well-exposed
sectors, such as the rockier parts of Chignin (especially Bergeron),
Chautagne, and the south-facing Marestel slope in Jongieux, where new
plantings were badly hit. However, some good wines should have been
made, providing growers had the facilities and ability in the cellar to cope
with the heat at harvest and to handle the low acidities, with adjustments
where appropriate. In view of the superbly healthy grapes in the vineyard,
one vigneron commented ironically that the chemical companies selling
antirot treatments would lose profits, but EDF (Electricité de France),
providing electricity for refrigeration, would have done very well. Average
quantity is down about 15 per cent, but some areas are down by as
much as 40 per cent. Bergeron and Altesse are likely to be patchy, but
occasionally excellent in quality; Jacquère will be for very early drinking,
but the reds could well be winners for short-term drinking.
GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 65
Updates on the previous five vintages
2002
Vintage rating: 83 (Jura: 88, Savoie: 77)
Jura – After a difficult summer, the north wind dried the grapes at the
end of August and a period of fine weather in autumn gave overall good
quality, if not great quantity. Nearly all varieties showed both good natural
ripeness and high acidity levels. This bodes well for vin jaune in the future.
Trousseau reds and Chardonnays are already tasting excellent, with good
weight and balance.
Savoie – Three weeks of fine, warm weather, accompanied by a cold north
wind from late September, saved the harvest, following a relatively cool and
wet August. Later varieties Jacquère and Mondeuse fared best, though
there is variation in Mondeuse. Altesse suffered from rot in places and is
also varied, though better in the Jongieux area, including the best-known
Roussette cru Marestel. Bergerons are fairly early drinking. Overall a fairly
good vintage, but not spectacular.
2001
Vintage rating: 67 (Jura: 69, Savoie: 64)
Jura – A generally difficult, fairly small, and variable vintage. However, good
weather at the end of harvest should produce some decent vin jaune,
though no AOC Château-Chalon, because this was declassified. For the rest
of the wine styles, there is much variation, but those who made a severe
selection have made elegant and balanced Chardonnays and Savagnins.
Savoie – A difficult year for many, with some mildew and intermittent hail
storms in places reducing quantities. It was cool at the start of September.
Better producers who carried out careful selection at the vine have
produced reasonable wines across the board, but it was a medium-quality
vintage for all the varieties and especially difficult for reds.
2000
Vintage rating: 82 (Jura: 81, Savoie: 83)
Jura – A rather cool summer gave, in the end, a good-quality vintage overall,
with attractive fruit characteristics, reasonable structure, but some lack of
concentration, often due to high yields. Enjoy these wines before the 1999s.
Savoie – A good year overall, with good yields, too. There was concentrated
Bergeron and Altesse, but a lack of weight and structure in Mondeuse has
resulted in quick-maturing reds.
66 WINE REPORT 2005 GLOBAL REPORTS GLOBAL REPORTS JURA & SAVOIE 67

1999 BEST-VALUE Savoie

PRODUCERS 1 Roussette de Savoie 2002
Vintage rating: 85 (Jura: 90, Savoie: 80) Domaine Prieuré Saint Christophe
Jura – An extremely sunny year gave the highest sugar levels ever seen in Jura
(€15)
1 Daniel Dugois
most varieties, great fruit concentration, and good yields, too. There were 2 Vin de Savoie Arbin
2 Domaine Rolet Père et Fils
excellent overall results, especially for Chardonnay. It may lack the high Mondeuse Vieilles Vignes
3 Château Béthanie, Fruitière
2001 Domaine Louis Magnin
acidity for real long-term ageing. Vinicole d’Arbois
(€10.50)
Savoie – Some variation, but overall a good year, with both Roussette and Savoie
3 Vin de Savoie Chignin
1 André et Michel Quenard
Mondeuse capable of ageing well. Bergeron 2002 Domaine Gilles
2 Domaine Dupasquier
Berlioz (€15)
3 Edmond Jacquin et Fils
4 Domaine de l’Idylle
1998
5 Pierre Boniface
BEST BARGAINS
Vintage rating: 77 (Jura: 79, Savoie: 75) 6 Cave du Prieuré
Jura – Though this year was spoilt by rain in September, most producers 7 Eugène Carrel et Fils Jura
1 Crémant du Jura Brut NV
were able to harvest a reasonable, healthy crop. Somewhat light, but well-
Richard Delay (€5.50)
balanced wines overall. GREATEST-QUALITY 2 Côtes du Jura Fleur de
Savoie – Difficult spring and summer weather conditions gave relatively WINES Chardonnay 2001 Domaine
light, early-drinking wines, although it is an overall decent vintage. Jura Labet (€8)
3 Arbois-Pupillin Trousseau
The two Château-Chalons need a
minimum of 10 years’ ageing; other 2001 Domaine de la Renardière
(€7)
GREATEST WINE Savoie wines can be drunk soon or kept.
1 Château-Chalon 1996 Jean
Savoie
PRODUCERS 1 Domaine Jean Vullien et Fils
1 Vin de Savoie Chignin
2 Jean-Pierre et Jean-François Macle (€27)
Jura Bergeron 2002 Domaine Jean
Quenard 2 Château-Chalon 1996
1 Domaine André et Mireille Tissot Vullien et Fils (€6.50)
3 Jean-Pierre et Philippe Grisard Domaine Berthet-Bondet
2 Domaine Labet 2 Vin de Savoie Chignin
4 Patrick et Annick Quenard (€27.60)
3 Jacques Puffeney Mondeuse 2002 André et
3 Arbois Chardonnay Les
4 Domaine Berthet-Bondet Michel Quenard (€4.65)
Graviers 2001 Domaine André
5 Domaine Baud Père et Fils 3 Vin de Savoie Chignin
NEW UP-AND-COMING et Mireille Tissot (€13)
6 Jacques Tissot PRODUCERS Bergeron 2002 André et Michel
4 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay
7 Jean Rijckaert Quenard (€7.35)
Les Varrons 2001 Domaine
Savoie Jura 4 Vin de Savoie Arbin
Labet (€10)
1 Domaine Prieuré Saint Christophe 1 Domaine de la Renardière Mondeuse l’Authentique
5 Arbois Savagnin 2000 Jacques
2 Domaine Louis Magnin 2 Domaine Ganevat 2002 Domaine Genoux (€6)
Puffeney (€12)
3 André et Michel Quenard 3 Domaine de la Tournelle 5 Roussette de Savoie Château
6 Côtes du Jura Vin de Paille
4 Domaine Ligier Père et Fils de Monterminod 2002 Jean
1999 Domaine Pignier (€20 per
Savoie Perrier et Fils (€6.60)
half-bottle)
FASTEST-IMPROVING 1 Domaine Gilles Berlioz 6 Vin de Savoie Pinot 2001
7 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay
PRODUCERS 2 Domaine Saint-Germain Domaine Dupasquier (€5)
Les Grandes Teppes Vieilles
3 Domaine Genoux 7 Vin de Savoie Gamay Vieilles
Jura Vignes Bouteille Antique
4 Château de Lucey Vignes 2002 Edmond Jacquin et
1 Domaine Pignier 2000 Domaine Ganevat (€11)
2 Daniel Dugois Fils (€5.20)
3 Frédéric Lornet
4 Domaine de la Pinte
68 WINE REPORT 2005 GLOBAL REPORTS

MOST EXCITING OR from Savagnin grapes harvested

UNUSUAL FINDS one month later than usual and
vinified into a dry wine in old
Jura
barrels, then matured and topped
1 Arbois Chardonnay Cuvée
up for two years.
Aigrefeu 1999 Daniel Dugois (€8)
Made only every four years, this
Savoie
superb Chardonnay is aged for
1 Idylle Vin de Savoie Arbin
four years in foudres that have
Mondeuse Prestige 2002
been meticulously maintained and
Domaine de l’Idylle (€8) This
topped up. Its concentration and
Mondeuse has not been near an
flavours justify the continuing use of
oak barrel; instead, the Tiollier
foudres for Chardonnay in the Jura.
brothers selected good fruit and
2 Arbois Savagnin Vendange de
used microoxidation to provide a
Novembre 1997 Jacques Tissot
soft, approachable style – just what
(€26 per half-bottle) Made from
Mondeuse needs to popularize it
grapes left to dry on the vine and
further outside the region.
affected by light botrytis, this is
2 Roussette de Savoie Altesse
totally different from Jura’s vins de
Château St-Philippe 2000
paille.With the classic balance of
Domaine Jean Vullien et Fils (€10)
a high-quality dessert wine, it was
If the Altesse fruit is good enough,
aged in barrel for several years.
it can take oak barrels – as proved
3 Arbois-Pupillin les Terrasses
by this wine aged for 10 months
2001 Domaine de la Renardière
and put through malolactic.
(€10) In the difficult 2001 vintage,
3 Vin de Savoie Apremont
Jean-Michel Petit selected this
Symphonie des Rocailles 2002
pure Savagnin to make in a fresh,
Pierre Boniface (€6.75) Made from
nonoxidative style, providing a
Chardonnay blended with Jacquère
lovely lemon-rind character and
and Altesse, this is vinified and
excellent balance.
matured in oak with bâtonnage.
4 Arbois Trousseau 2002 Domaine
The end result gives a weightier
André et Mireille Tissot (€10.50)
character than most Apremonts,
Low yields and careful handling
and one that will age better, too.
of the fickle Trousseau variety by
4 Vin de Savoie Malvoisie 2002
Stéphane Tissot have produced a
Edmond Jacquin et Fils (€6)
most unusual Jura red of excellent
Only a couple of producers are
cherry colour and fruit intensity.
experimenting with the so-called
5 Arbois Traminer 2002 La Cave
Malvoisie variety (no relation to
de la Reine Jeanne (€8.50) The
others in the world), an old Savoie
Savagnin variety is from the
grape that is said to be identical
Traminer family, hence the rather
to the red Veltliner of Austria.
cheeky naming of this off-dry, ripe
It ripens easily, and here at
white wine made by Stéphane
Jacquin, with their meticulously
Tissot from old vines of Savagnin
clean winemaking, the aromatic,
for his négociant company.
almost exotic character is
6 Arbois Solstice 2001 Domaine
encouraged to shine through.
de la Tournelle (€11) This is made