Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
CLIMBING
08
metolius
climbing
Welcome and thanks for having a look at our 2008 equipment catalog.
We have a massive offering of new products for the coming season.
From the much anticipated single-stem Master Cam to the new Boss Hogg
crash pad, we continue our quest to make the safest, most innovative,
and functional products we possibly can. This catalog only shows a
portion of our product line; to view the entire line, get detailed technical
information, obtain dealer information, make equipment purchases
or to find out about Metolius athletes, please visit our web site, www.
metoliusclimbing.com. Enjoy and have a safe climbing season!
Our Green Statement -- It’s really nice to see America, and the world,
waking up about environmental issues. The fact is, not much has changed
since Metolius opened its doors over 24 years ago. Our underlying
philosophy was, and still is, to make the very best product we possibly
can. Yes, it uses resources, but if your haul bag can last 30 walls or your
cams last for 20 years, we feel we have used those resources wisely.
METOLIUS CLIMBING
In addition, we recycle our production by-products whenever possible
63189 Nels Anderson Rd. Concept/art direction/design/production: Brooke Sandahl to minimize our impact on the environment. Many Metolius employees
Bend, Oregon 97701 USA Computer production: little Karn are active on national, regional and local levels working closely with
ph. (541) 382-7585 Editing: Chip Miller, Michelle von Heideken a myriad of outdoor user groups. We are climbers, bikers, skiers and
fax (541) 382-8531 Studio photography: Brooke Sandahl outdoor enthusiasts with a common theme; our planet is our home and
email: info@metoliusclimbing.com
web site: www.metoliusclimbing.com
playground, so it needs our protection at all costs. We also realize that
we, too, are part of the problem. Becoming more aware of the parts we
LIMITED WARRANTY: Metolius Climbing Inc. products are warranted to the original retail pur- play on this great planet and realizing that changes need to be made,
chaser to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one year and will be
are the first steps in making those changes a reality.
replaced without charge, if after inspection by us, no misuse or alteration is disclosed. Metolius
Climbing Inc. makes no other warranty expressed or implied.
WARNING: Technical rock climbing is inherently dangerous. Any person using our gear in any
manner is personally responsible for learning the proper techniques and using good judgement.
Front Cover: Jeremy Blumel battles with the bulge, Indian Creek, UT – Rich Wheater Inside front Cover: Alex Querning pedals the air bike on The Vision, Smith Rock, OR – Rich Wheater
Cams
Master Cam™
With the most versatile offering of cams on the planet, Ultralight Power Cams, We made our Slider Nuts over 25 years ago, so we are no strangers to flexible,
TCUs, Offsets, Fat Cams and Supercams, why add a single-stem cam to our single-stem designs. The Mater Cam combines a nice, flexy cable with an
line? The reason is that there is an infinite number of variables in the climbing ultra-narrow head for hard aid or free climbing. Since we invented the CNC
environment: hard rock, soft rock, parallel cracks, flared cracks, etc . . . Each milled cam-stop, we naturally applied them to Master Cams. We also joined our
individual cam style excels at a certain set of variables. The Fat Cam’s wide silky-smooth trigger assembly with an ergonomic thumb piece to provide
lobes greatly improve protection in soft rock while the TCU’s narrow head precise control over placement and retraction. The longer body affords
widths greatly enhance placement versatility. The biggest advantages of the additional reach when top-stepping or stretching for that hard-to-get placement.
single-stem unit are: they will fit into certain placements better than the The Range Finder system also provides critical placement feedback for those
U-shaped body and the flexible, single cable reduces leverage to minimize who need it. Master Cams are hand-built right here in our Bend, Oregon shop.
walking in certain placements. We set out to make the finest single-stem unit Each one is thoroughly inspected and every unit is tested to 5 kN. Master Cams
we possibly could and the Master Cam is the result. are CE and UIAA certified.
Sizes: #00 - #6
2 3
Ultralight Power Cam™ & TCU™
Direct Axle Technology (DAT) makes Power Cams & TCUs
among the lightest units in the world. By eliminating the
old-style end fitting, we have saved an incredible
25 – 30% in total weight. DAT also increases placement
options in narrow and/or bottoming cracks and makes
it easier to see those placements. We continue with our
optimized cam angle for more outward force and wider
cam faces for increased grip. The U-shaped body assures
legendary durability and strength with perfect control
over placement and retraction. Both models have CNC
cam stops while Range Finder technology provides instant
placement feedback. Color-coded tubing and slings make
it easy to find the right-sized unit, even when
you’re sketching.
4 5
Supercam™
The Supercam is a new generation of extended–range
cams, and they are improved in every way! The
Supercam extends the camming range well past that
of the popular double-axle design and does it with
fewer parts and a cleaner, more elegant design.
The 30% wider cam faces greatly increase holding
power in the notoriously unstable larger sizes and
are contained in our lightweight, flexible U-shaped
framework for greater durability and control during
placement and retraction. Machined cam stops are
standard issue, as are color-coded slings and tubing
for easy ID. Hand-built in our shop by seasoned pros,
each Supercam is inspected and tested to half its rated
strength (CE and UIAA certified). One pull of the
trigger and you will begin to understand the magic
that is the Supercam!
6 Lock (off) and load (pro), Jeremy Hensel @ the Creek – Ben Moon 7
Passive Protection
Sizes: #1 - #10
Total weight savings = 1252 g (2.76 lb) - 30% lighter than the old rack!
10 Slater preps the rack for moving off of Sickle Ledge, The Nose, El Cap – Ben Moon 11
Inferno Wire-gate
Carabiners Quickdraws
Two lightweight, high-strength Infernos are
joined by our 13 mm Dyneema slings. This
Inferno Wire-Gate Carabiner combo yields the perfect blend of ingredients
Finally, a lightweight, full-size body with a large gate for all your climbing projects. Inferno
opening and exceptional strength. By combining the Quickdraws are available individually or
following design criteria, we have created a safer in five packs.
carabiner. Hot-forging and rope-locating wells, create a
Weight: 2.7 oz. (75 g)
stronger ‘biner that achieves excellent closed and Sling strength: 22 kN
open-gate strengths. With so many ‘biners on the market Carabiner str: See Inferno
going to a tiny body-size to save weight, we purposely
kept our body large for a massive gate opening to ease
desperate clips and enable easy gear access. Each and
every carabiner is tested to 14 kN and
CE and UIAA certified.
12 Fall colors turn as the forearms burn, Rebbecca Berry @ Shag Crag, Maine – Ben Moon 13
Safe Tech™ Climbing Helmet
Our climbing helmet was designed to provide increased
head protection, withstand typical climber abuses, and
still remain super-comfortable and well-ventilated. To
make our helmet long-lasting and durable, we use a
strong ABS outer shell. For energy absorption, we
line it with EPS foam, creating the perfect mix of
durability and safety.
Most helmets are designed for falling objects
hitting the top of the helmet. To make our
helmet safer, we added extra material in
the back and sides to cover head injuries
incurred while falling. For example, if the
rope is behind you when you fall, you can easily
flip backwards causing the back or side of your head
to impact the rock first. These critical areas are where
many head injuries are sustained. We created the Safe
Tech Helmet to address this issue.
This is also the most comfortable climbing helmet
available today. We have achieved this through
excellent ventilation and a finely tuned retention
system. Try one on and you’ll feel the difference.
Although climbing is not without risk, the Safe Tech
Helmet will greatly reduce your chances of head injury.
14 Following in Hardings footsteps on the iconic Nose route, The Valley – Ben Moon 15
Safe Tech™ Harnesses
Safety features:
Wherever possible, each component is engineered to
withstand a load of 10 kN (2250 lbf). Other safety
features include:
Gear loops –10 kN (2250 lbf)
Rope locator – 16 kN (3600 lbf)
Rear haul loop –16 kN (3600 lbf)
Leg loop elastics – 6.6 kN (1500 lbf)
Aren’t all harnesses “safe enough”? Maybe you think they are, but if that’s true, why do so many climbing accidents involve the
misuse of harnesses and/or the failure of non-structural harness components? Many of these accidents are due to inexperience, but a
surprisingly large number of incidents have involved very experienced climbers who made life-threatening mistakes through fatigue,
darkness, or a simple lapse in concentration. Safe Tech is the result of our conviction that designing harnesses with every possible
margin of safety built in will save lives. Our harnesses are, hands down, the safest harnesses ever made!
Models:
Sport – on-sight climbing, red-points, indoor gym and competition. Sizes: xs, s, m, l
All Around – sport & traditional climbing, multi-pitch, gym. Sizes: xs, s, m, l, xl
Men’s Deluxe – comfort & safety for all-around climbing, multi-pitch or walls. Sizes: s, m, l, xl
Women’s Deluxe – adjustable rise = perfect fit, all-around routes, gym, multi-pitch. Sizes: xs, s, m, l
Waldo – massive components = support & comfort for big walls and course setting. Sizes: s, m, l, xl
16 Mike Doyle samples the dream stone on Wolfgang’s infamous Punks in the Gym, Arapiles, OZ - Ben Moon 17
PAS™ (Personal Anchor System)
Clip to anchor master point
This innovative device provides a safe, convenient and adjustable attachment from the climber to the anchor. The PAS is
constructed from our 16 mm Dyneema and nylon webbing, which means a high-strength connection to the anchor while
threading for the lower, setting up a rappel or belaying. The PAS SHOULD REPLACE THE DAISY CHAIN that many climbers
wear affixed to their harnesses for free climbing. Daisy chains should NOT be used because they are only full-strength
when loaded in their end loops (intermediate pockets are rated for body weight only). When not in use, just leave the
PAS girth-hitched to your tie-in points, gather the extra loops and clip to the harness gear loop for compact storage. The Ben gaining height while Half Dome looks on, Yosemite – Bennett Barthelemy
PAS is available with or without the Element locking carabiner. Sewn Slings
Length: 42” (107 cm) Our Monster Webbing slings are custom woven from a blend of 36% Dyneema and 64% nylon. This blend yields an incredible strength-
Weight without ‘biner: 2.9 oz. (82 g) to-weight ratio, allowing them to slim down to a narrow 13 mm width. The Monster Web exhibits excellent mechanical properties
Strength: 18 kN (4050 lbf)
including high tensile strength and excellent abrasion resistance. The Dyneema fibers lower the amount of water absorption, making
Katie Brown breakin’ camp, El Cap – Ben Moon
them ideal for alpine rock, big walls, ice and mountaineering applications.
Open loop sling lengths: 10” (25 cm), 22” (60 cm), 46” (120 cm)
Quickdraw sling lengths: 5” (12 cm), 7” (17 cm)
Strength: 22 kN (4950 lbf)
5”
7”
10” 22” 46”
Rabbit Runner
It’s an extremely versatile runner for rock, ice and mountaineering. The R.R. is full-strength, even in the single strand applica-
tion, due to our high-strength custom webbing.
18 19
Dana controls the lower out, Washington Column – Bennett Barthelemy
Gear Slings
We achieve maximum comfort through our classic ergonomic cut and a combination of polyester outer, die-cut, closed-cell foam inner
and a comfy fleece liner. Our CNC aluminum buckle allows full adjustability and the poly tubing over the clipping area makes racking
easy. Our innovative Multi-Loop offers distinctive organization of your rack. Not enough room? Pick a Double D model (allows gear on
both sides) or simply buy the Double D attachment and upgrade your single-sider to a double-sider. Choose from a myriad of colors.
Ergonomic Gear Slings
Multi-Loop: 4.4 oz. (125 g)
Adjustable: 4.2 oz. (119 g)
Double D: 4.4 oz. (125 g)
Multi-Loop DD: 5.5 oz. (156 g)
Double D Attachment: 1.2 oz. (34 g)
Multi-Loop
Weight BWGS: 10.6 oz. (300 g), Multi Loop: 12 oz. (340 g)
20 Fresh snow melt makes the perfect thirst quencher, descent off the Column – Bennett Barthelemy
Big Wall
Sorting the tangles high on the Zod., El Cap, Yosemite – Jeff Johnson
¾ “ Alpine
4 Step 5 Step
Metolius Aiders
Choose from our ladder style or classic triangular step models. All are constructed from 100% nylon webbing with
Biothane step stiffeners, reinforced clip-in points and full-strength grab loops. Ladder-style aiders feature 8 steps for
maximum ease of use and are constructed from 1” flat nylon webbing
Models: 8 Step Ladder, 1” 4 and 5 Step Aiders, ¾ “ Alpine, Pocket Aider
Daisy Chain
These daisies can be used for rigging ascenders, leading aid
pitches, sorting out belays or docking the haul bag. Made from
robust ¾” nylon webbing and includes 12 pockets.
Overall length: 55” (140 cm) Katie kickin’ back Lisa in control – Ben Moon (both)
Weight: 3.5 oz. (99 g)
Climbing Glove
Monster Web Daisy Chain The snug fit and super comfy feel have made
Try our custom 13mm Monster Web Daisy (blend of 36% Dyneema and 64% nylon) these gloves popular throughout the world!
which offers a very high strength-to-weight ratio and excellent abrasion resistance. Our Climbing Glove exhibits a durable leather
These chains also exhibit increased resistance to cutting and lower water absorption. outer with a split-leather palm reinforcement
Overall length: 55” (140 cm) which is triple-stitched for maximum longevity.
Weight: 2.5 oz. (70 g) Three-quarter length fingers provide excellent
manual dexterity and the finger openings are
Easy Daisy™ double-stitched for durability. They also have
a strong, handy clip-in loop. They’re great for
Easy Daisies and Aiders have helped revolutionize aid climbing systems. Our innovative, CNC double-buckle all-around climbing applications and perfect
setup allows you to operate both the buckle and the carabiner without changing your grip. Just clip the next for big wall climbers who demand extra
piece and pull on the tail to adjust height exactly. They can be used on their own or in combination with protection for their hands.
conventional aiders or daisy setups to increase speed and efficiency.
Color: natural w/brown palm
Sizes: xs, s, m, l, xl
Easy Aider™
Easy Aiders streamline the process of moving up the rungs
Belay Glove
in a traditional aider. No more fighting to get your feet in
and out of your aiders. The wide, comfortable stirrup (2 ¾” Belay gloves give a huge advantage to the be-
width) greatly reduces foot fatigue and buckles securely into layer when controlling the rope in the event of
place. They also make the ultimate ascender slings! Please a fall or during rappelling. They offer a snug
specify right or left when ordering. fit with excellent dexterity and are available in
natural (tan) leather or in tactical black. Save
Rope Hook™ your skin with full-finger coverage and greatly
increase the safety factor of your belays with
This item makes rope management a breeze on mulit-pitch routes. Just hang the hook from the these burly, snug-fitting gloves.
anchor and lay lap coils back and forth across the Rope Hook as the second is belayed. You’re
Colors: natural, tactical black
now ready to lead through as the rope is stacked perfectly for the next pitch.
Sizes: xs, s, m, l, xl
24 25
Chalk Bags Bouldering Bucket
A massive variety of colors, prints and fabrics to choose from in Our bucket is constructed with beefy ballistic or stylish print fab-
two different shapes: the Competition (classic cylinder) or our rics; it has fully taped seams and the hearty construction you’ve
Yosemite (a tapered cylinder with an angle-cut top). Both designs come to expect. On the outside you’ll find a carry handle, small
feature a stiff, easy-access rim, handy brush holder and easy-clip pocket for keys as well as dual brush holders. Each Bouldering
belt. Additionally, both models are lined with soft fleece for a nice Bucket includes an M-16 Brush and a 2.5 oz. bag of Super Chalk.
feel and good chalk retention. 9” tall x 7.5” dia.
Colors: assorted
Colors: assorted solids & prints
Lightweight fabric: This layer is sewn to the outer cover to form a pocket for the top foam layer.
1/2” closed cell foam - split sheet: laminated to the bottom of the open cell foam.
Boss Hogg
The Boss Hogg is a super-deluxe pad with all the features. It’s stuffed with the best dual-
density foam and then encased in ultra-durable ballistic fabric. Our innovative foam layering
system provides the ultimate in fall-stopping potential. The 1” top sheet of continuous
closed-cell foam is unsplit at the hinge, eliminating the gutter, while the 2.5” open-cell inner
foam and ½” closed-cell basal layer has our exclusive angle hinge design. The waterproof,
auto carpet top keeps shoes clean and foam dry. The fabric flap keeps gear securely stored
when the pad is loaded for transport. There is also a small hook & loop stash pocket within
the flap. A choice suspension system, dual drag handles, unbreakable metal buckles and
suitcase-style molded carry handle round out the features.
Dimensions: 36” x 48” x 4” open, 36” x 26” x 8” folded
Cheap Bastard
The #1 selling pad just got better. An ultra-clean layout designed for those who want a
top-quality landing surface without the bells and whistles. Features include: new, burly corner
reinforcements, a tough, diamond-rip stop outer fabric, textured top surface for quick shoe
cleaning, 4 inches of impact absorbing, dual density foam, padded shoulder straps and waist
belt suspension system, plus molded suitcase style carry handle. All this for an amazing price!
Dimensions: 36” x 48” x 4“ - open, 36” x 26” x 8” – folded
Sketch Pad™
The Sketch pad is named in honor of Kinnaloa Bruce’s original crash pad. This timeless design
brings only the essentials, with it’s super clean layout and 3 inches of foam to keep volume
down. It’s a great second pad, kid’s pad, or for old schoolers like John Sherman who prefer a
3” lightweight pad.
Dimensions: 42” x 32” x 3” - open 21.5” x 32” x 7” – folded
Behemoth
A pad for the serious boulderer who wants to go big, get maximum coverage and get the
finest pad money can buy. A whopping 4’ x 6’ of surface coverage gives you the confidence
to cast for the summit. The Behemoth is made with same high-quality, dual-density foam
combination as our other pads. It’s a solid, hingeless pad which folds up burrito-style for
transport. We’ve buffed out the suspension system by offering adjustable shoulder straps
and waist belt. When storing the Behemoth, we recommend keeping it laid out flat and then
rolling it up for transport.
Dimensions: 48” x 72” x 4” - open, 48” x 25” x 15” – folded
Monster 9.8 mm: A lightweight, high- A bad cat on Bad Cat, Indian Creek, UT– Ben Moon
performance rope designed for today’s modern routes
Porta-Cord™
Uses: trad & sport climbing, hard red-points, on-sights,
alpine rock and free walls. The most versatile rope bag ever made! This little beauty is a lightweight summit/
crag pack with a 3’ x 3’ attached rope tarp which neatly stows when not in use. It also
9.8 mm x 60 M dry / non-dry
functions as a rope bucket during multi-pitch routes or wall climbing. The combina-
9.8 mm x 70 M dry / non-dry
tion top-load/duffel opening with burly #10 zipper allows easy access to ropes up to
Monster 10.2 mm: A very durable and 70 meters. Other features include: hydration pocket, two large external side-bellow
versatile rope targeted specifically for rock climbers. pockets, convenient grab/clip-in handles and bombproof construction.
Uses: traditional rock & sport climbing, big walls and
multi-pitch routes.
Rope Ranger™
10.2 mm x 60 M dry / non-dry
10.2 mm x 70 M dry / non-dry A larger, more deluxe version of the Ropemaster, the Ranger has double shoulder
straps for back pack mode, an end-mounted carry handle for short hops and handy
Gym Rope 10 mm: With a specifically
external zippered pocket for small items, making it the ultimate rope bag.
designed sheath for greater abrasion resistance, our
Gym Rope can take the repeated punishment in a
commercial gym setting. Available in 10 mm x 30 M Monster Markers
lengths or 100 M spool. Ropemaster™
Our exclusive and revolutionary safety The time tested rope bag that started the revolution in containment vessels for your
Monster Static Ropes: Static ropes are
marking system weaves nylon fibers lifeline, the climbing rope! It was specifically designed to fight the cord-chewing dirt at
characterized by their tough, durable nature and very
through the rope producing highly visi- Smith Rock. The features include a 4’ x 5’ tarp, padded shoulder strap and unbreak-
low elongation. They are designed for use in applications
ble pink markers 10 M / 30 ft from the able metal buckles for the compression straps.
such as jumaring, hauling, rope fixing, rigging
end of the rope and two bright orange
and rescue work. Available in 9mm, 10mm, and 11 mm
markers at the rope’s middle. They are
x 100 M spool.
highly visible, easy to see in low-light Dirt Bag™
Accessory Cord: Our fine line of accessory conditions, and they can be felt as they
cords have a thousand and one uses. All cords except “travel” through the belay device. We The Dirt Bag is designed to protect your cord from dirt, moisture and foreign
2 and 3 mm sizes fulfill EN 564 and UIAA standards. hope they will reduce lowering and substances, thereby extending rope life. The long narrow duffel made of heavy-weight
Sizes: 2 mm – 8 mm rappel-related accidents by reminding ballistic fabric is perfect for over-the-shoulder carrying and attaches to the outside of
climbers that the rope end is nearing. your pack with ease. Our 3’ x 3’ tarp gives plenty of room for 70 M cords.
30 31
Ana, Kemi & Josue wishing for ground swell, Punta de Mita, Mexico – Ben Moon
Colors: assorted
Plastics Intro
We have over 750 holds to choose from
and it would take a lot of trees to put
them in this catalog! To view them all in
full color, go to www.metoliusclimbing.
com. Here’s what you’ll see: 10 full lines
of plastic grips, an entire line of premium
wooden holds (Wood Grips), plus an
amazing array of specialty holds, such
as our innovative Corner Holds, Inside Metolius Hold Collection: 750 fantastic shapes to
Outs, Colonettes, and Screw on series. choose from by the number one manufacturer in the country!
The variety of design ranges from holds
that accurately mimic nature, to pure,
ergonomic training shapes for hardcore
pulling. All our grips are tendon friendly,
super-strong, finely textured and include
all necessary mounting hardware.
Much has changed since we made the first
Simulator training board in 1985, now on
its sixth generation. We’ve got Rock Rings,
Wood Grips training boards and more, to
address all your training needs.
Training junkie Mike Doyle sorts it out on Punks, Arapiles, Australia – Ben Moon
Simulator CNC™
The Simulator is the #1 selling training board in the world! Currently
in its 6th generation, we have perfected the layout and texture and
have included an amazing number of training features. It comes with
Get that scorpion out of my pants - Josue losing it, mainland, Mexico – Ben Moon
installation instructions, detailed training information and
sample workouts.
Rock Rings CNC™
Pure Force CNC™
Rock Rings excel at pull-up related exercises as they allow supination and
This deluxe board is slightly more compact than the Simulator, yet pronation of the arms and shoulders for ergonomic pulling. They’re great
still offers a huge selection of features. The Pure Force is an excellent for home or travel as they can be hung nearly anywhere. Comprehensive
choice for all-around upper body strength gains, especially contact instructions and training guide are included with every set (sold in pairs).
(finger) strength. The Pure Force comes with detailed installation and
training instructions.
Slim Gym™ Portable Power Grips™
The Slim Gym’s ultra-compact nature offers a good selection of These super-portable trainers have four different hold configurations to
key features and allows for easy mounting over your door or choose from since they can be hung from either end. Our custom, curved
just about anywhere. It comes with comprehensive installation shape is super ergonomic and excels at pull-up related exercises. P.P.G.s are
and training instructions. lightweight, compact and great for travel as they can be set up
Lisa Hensel, Eagle, CO – Ben Moon nearly anywhere.
Wood Grips™ Deluxe and
Compact Boards
These boards offer the unsurpassed feel and GripSaver Plus™
consistency of wood which is perfect for training. Skin-
friendly wood texture and an excellent hold selection The GripSaver Plus was designed to strengthen and balance the muscles of the
and layout will guarantee a pumped set of forearms. hand, wrist and forearm. Super effective for rehab or prevention of climbing-
related finger, wrist and elbow injuries, the GripSaver Plus is an essential tool
Deluxe for the serious climber as it exercises the hand through the full, natural range
of motion. The GripSaver includes a new stronger finger cord and step-by-step
instructions on use and exercises.
08
We heartily continue our support of the Access Fund and the Climbers Access Society of British
Columbia, Canada. These two organizations are doing wonders for our communities by preserv-
ing access, keeping natural areas open and accessible to climbers and the public at large. Please
support them in anyway YOU can!
www.accessfund.org www.access-society.ca