Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
NOVE M B E R 0 D E C E M B E R 2 0 0 5
` 11 1
Her bed Roast Turkey
New 4-Step Method
Tangy Buttermilk
Mashed Potatoes
Supermarket Coffee
Taste Test
Starbucks vs. Dunkin' Donuts
Chocolate Butter
Cookies
Cocoa Powder Delivers Big Flavor
Rustic Beef Stew
Rating Mixers
$350 Model Beats
$1,500 Competitor
Roasted Green Beans
Hunter-Style Chicken
How to Buy and Use Chocolate
Perfect Linzertorte
Sweet Potato Casserole
www. cooksi I I ustrated. com
$5.95 U.S./$6.95 CANADA
1 2 >
'`i!:
November c December Zll
2 Notes from Readers
Readers ask questions and sugest sol utions.
4 Quick Tips
Quick and easy ways to perform everday tasks, from
cracking nuts and slicing bread to mufl ing l oud cofee
grinders.
6 Beef Stew, Proven<al Style
This beef stew from the south of France is countr
cooking at its best: bol d, brsh, and ful l-favored. Could
we trnslate the fiavors of Provence to an American home
kitchen? BY SARAH WILS ON
8 Redefining Sweet Potato
Casserole
More dessert than side dish. the tpical recipe swamps
this casserole in sugar. fat, and spices. We wanted to clear
the way for the sweet potatoes. BY MATTHEW CARD
I 0 Roasting Green Beans
Is it possible to breathe new life into over-the-hill
supermarket green beans? BY REBECCA HAYS
I I Herbed Roast Turkey
How do you give a turkey herb favor that's more than
superficial? We rubbed, soaked, injected, poked, and
operated on more than two dozen birds to find out.
BY SANDRA WU
14 Pasta with Hearty Greens
and Beans
Tis classic recipe from the Italian countryside deserves
a pl ace on the American tabl e. Could we streamline it
without forfeiting fiavor? BY REBECCA HAYS
16 Chocolate 1l1
From shopping to chopping, our no-nonsense guide puts
an end to chocolate confusion. BY SEAN LAWLER
18 The Taming of Hunter-Style
Chicken
The original chasseur was a preparation fit for even the
sorriest spoils of the hunt. Coul d we adapt this dish to the
tamer, mi l der birds baged at the local market?
BY SARAH WILSON AND JOLYON HELTE RMAN
20 The Ultimate Linzertorte
What's the secret to making a perfect version of this Old
World tart? BY THE COOK'S ILLUSTRATED TEST KITCHEN
22 The Best Chocolate Butter
Cookies
Chocolate butter cookies usual l y taste bland or surrender
their crisp. del icate appeal to a chewy, brownie- l ike
texture. How about great fiavor and great texture?
BY E RIKA BRUCE
24 Rescuing Buttermilk Mashed
Potatoes
Replacing the butter and cream with buttermilk doesn' t
work. (Unless you l i ke curdl ed, parched spuds. ) So what' s
the secret to tang, creamy mashed potatoes?
BY REBECCA HAYS
25 Mix Masters
KitchenAid has dominated the standing- mixer market for
decades, but can it cream a new batch of competitors
with I ,000-watt motors, cavernous bowl s, and loft price
tags? BY JOLYON HELTE RMAN
28 Is Coffeehouse Coffee Best?
We secretly replaced our tasters' favorite gourmet cofee
with supermarket beans. Coul d they tell the diference?
Our taste tests yielded surprising resul ts.
BY JOLYON HELTE RMAN
30 Kitchen Notes
Test results, buying tips, and advice related to stories past
and present, directly from the test kitchen.
BY SANDRA WU
32 Equiprent Corner
Reviews of new items, updates on past tests, and sources
for products used in this issue.
BY GARTH CLINGINGSMITH
RUSC BRED SHAPES Of all the rustic, freeform bread shapes that hail from Europe. the
long, baton-l ike French baguette is the most familiar. The epi, or ear of wheat. is a decorative
variation on this long, thin shape, achieved by cutting a series of diagonal slits partway through
the loaf: alternating sections of dough are pulled out to create the classic wheat-stalk shape.
The wreath is made either by joining a simil arl y thin log of dough at the ends or by punching a
hole in the center of a dough round and gently widening it. The fcelle (French for "twine") is
half the width of a regul ar baguette but just as long and can be used to make uniform rou nds
for hors d' oeuvres. Torpedo-shaped batards and rounded botles sere as the basis for a host
of common breads, incl uding sourdough and re. Ciabatta is a traditional Italian freeform loaf,
charcterized by its squat shape and chew. lare-holed crumb. French fougasse-a cousin of
Italian focaccia-is a fiat bread scored with several holes to create the lattice shape.
COVER (Apples): Elizabeth Brandon, BCK COVER (Rus/J Bread Shapes): John Burgoyne
Fr list rental information, contact: Clientlogic, 1200 Harbor Blvd., 9th Floor, Weehawken, Nj 07087: 201-865-5800: fax 201-867-2450.
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Postmaster: Send all new order, subscription inquiries, and change-of-address notices to Cook's Illustrated. P.O. Box 7446, Red Oak, lA 51591-0446.
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PRINTED IN THE US
A
fiend of mine owns a pair of Shire
horses--each of which weighs in at a
massive 2,400 pounds-that are used
to pull mowers and other farm equip
ment. His wife, Annick, is an experienced eques
trian and has taken to riding them, a notion that
I have decried on many occasions as a uniquely
hairbrained idea. Afer all, they haven't been
schooled in pleasure riding, and arguing with
more than a ton of stubborn horsefesh could be
fatal. Well, you can guess the rest of the story. My
wfe, Adrienne, and I went down for a visit and
Annick suggested we go for a ride. The other
horses were ill-disposed, so she saddled up one
of the Shires. One thing Jed to another and I
soon found myself at a fll lope, at which point
the Shire, having had enough of this particular
passenger, took a sharp lef into a small stand of
trees. I went fom 20 miles per hour to zero in
less than a second, having been swept out of the
saddle by a set of thick branches. When I came
to, my face was fl of dirt, my ribs were bruised,
my lef leg was useless, and my neck was, well,
stif. It took about a month to mostly recover,
and I still don't quite remember exactly what
happened: It was a close call.
Many of our neighbors have had their own
near-death experiences. A month ago, Nate was
working next to an excavator, bent over as he
was spraying a line on the grass. The operator
swiveled the machine around just as Nate was
standing up and caught him on the head with
the back of the cab. It laid him out flat on the
ground, his eyes were bloodshot for a week, and
he still has a crease in his skull. Charlie Bentley
had his own close call a few years ago when his
head was caught between two disks in a harrow
and was pulled 100 yards through a feld face
down by a runaway tractor. Tom, who works
in construction, fell of of scaffolding above a
concrete apron dotted with spikes of rebar. He
landed on his feet in between the metal spikes
and walked away without a scratch.
Nancy Tschorn runs the local country store
L1111.1
'I'S 'AIIS
managed to get safely down the
hill he said quietly, "Best not to
shif a heavy load going down
hill." I realized later that this had
been a serious, potentially fatal
mistake-a close call of the high
est order. But Charlie knew that
there was more at stake than his
tractor. Instead of overreacting
and shaking my confdence, he
handled the situation quietly.
with her husband, Doug, and
she just wrote a book of stories,
including her "close calls" with
wily vendors. D-Wayne is one
such salesman, and he phones
her every few months to make
her a special ofer: 300 pounds
of bubble wrap, a case of ham
mer heads (the handles got
burned in a fre), Swedish (not
Swiss) army knives for 99 cents
apiece, and, on this one occa
sion, 1 0 pairs of socks for a dol
Chrstopher Kimball One summer night years ago,
Jar each. Socks sell well since the store is near
the famous Battenkill River, which does a good
job producing loads of wet socks. Knowing that
acrylic socks are no bargain, she asked D-Wayne
what material the socks were made fom. Afer
a long pause, he said in a southwestern drawl,
"Well, let me see. They are 70 percent wool and
30 percent nylon." Nancy placed the order, as
a combination of warm wool and strong nylon
sounded like a good mix. A week later the ship
ment of 1 0 pairs arrived: Seven pairs were wool
and three were nylon.
In the kitchen, of course, we have all had
plenty of close calls as well as outright disas
ters. I recently put a baking sheet of individual
chocolate bread puddings under the broiler with
the timer set for a minute and lef the kitchen.
My 7-year-old, Emily, shouted out, "Daddy, the
oven is on fre!" True enough. The chocolate
had burned and the bread was indeed ablaze.
Although I could not conceal my blunder, I did
manage a bit of culinary surgery and topped each
ramekin with plenty of whipped cream. Dessert
was a close call.
Our closest calls, however, are ofen those
times when we wisely opt to take a quiet path in
the face of disaster. A a young farmhand, I was
driving a tractor and baler down a steep hill when
I pushed in the clutch and tried to downshif.
Charlie Bentley (the farmer) was standing on the
back of the tractor and said nothing. When we
my oldest daughter, Whitney,
decided to leave home on her bike, a green and
white special with colored streamers on the hand
grips. It was just the two of us home that evening,
but I said nothing, leaving her to her prepara
tions. She lef (I peeked out of the living room
window), bicycling down the long drive to the
dirt road that runs through our small valley. I
walked to the kitchen and set the timer for 30
minutes. When it went of, I went to the old Ford
pickup and drove down the road toward New
York State. I found her turned around, heading
back home, just short of Harley Smith's farm.
I turned the truck around and came up next to
her, asking her if she might want a lif since it was
mostly an uphill ride. She said, "Sure." I put the
bike in the back of the truck, and we drove home
without another word between us. We never
spoke of it again, nor did I ever tell her mother.
(That is, until now.)
Sometimes kids need their independence,
need the freedom to head down the road on
a hot July night. I guess I have learned some
thing fom the Vermont farmers I grew up with
(although they might say otherwise). You stand
by the stove, watching the timer count down
slowly, dreaming of a little girl cycling purpose
flly toward the broad fatlands of New York
State with a sandwich and marshmallows in her
white vinyl saddlebag. You step back and take a
chance, letting life fl in the fture on its own,
wondering just how close a call it wl really be.
!LIIl[LIIILb, LILLIb, LILHL Il!LI1ILl.
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NOVEMBER b DECEMBER 2005
l1c I1! 11/i1i`
Reading Tea Leaves
Do white, green, oolong, and black teas come
fom the same plant? We have heard conflicting
statements. Your expertise would be welcome.
RICHARD FLATOW
OAK CREEK. WIS.
.White, green, oolong, and black teas come
fom the same source: an evergreen plant in the
Camelia family. The degree to which the leaves
are processed determines the resulting forms of
tea. Many historical experts and botanists believe
green tea was the earliest te of tea produced
in China, with black tea developed during the
Ming dynasty ( 1 368-1 644) as a way to extend
the leaves' keeping qualities as trade
abroad increased.
All four varieties of tea
require the same frst
step in processing: the
withering stage, in which
the water content of the
leaves is reduced fom 75-80
percent to 60-70 percent
through exposure to sun
light or warm air. What hap
pens next radically changes
the nature of the leaves
and the resulting cup
of tea.
White tea is produced
fom new tea-leaf buds that
are plucked before they
open, allowed to wither,
and dried. Because white
tea is not rolled (a step
that most teas undergo
to release their aromatic
juices) and is only slightly
oxidized, its light gray leaves
brew up a pale yellow liquid
with a mild, slightly sweet
favor. For green tea, the
leaves are withered, heat
treated, rolled, and heated
once more until dry and
dull green in color. The
resulting tea is bright and
grassy in favor. The leaves
destned to become black tea
undergo the most processing.
OOLONG
Moderately woody
and fl oral
BLACK
Deep and smok
flavor notes
One Pant, Many Teas Al l four of these teas come from
the sme pl ant-an evergreen in the Camthiafami ly. The
diference i s i n the processing.
C O MPI LE D BY S ANDR A W U <
Like green tea leaves, black tea leaves are with
ered and rolled. Unlike green tea leaves, they are
next fermented and dried, or "fred." This last
step is necessary to stop the decomposition of the
leaves, causing them to turn black and develop
that familiar "tea" smell.
Oolong tea, which originated in the Fukien
province of China, falls in between green and
black teas in terms of both taste and process
ing method. Generally referred to as semi
fermented, it is withered and fermented, much
like black tea, but for a shorter period of time,
and its leaves are never broken by rolling.
Egs, Sunny Side Down?
We noticed that cartons of eggs seem to come
with the eggs placed pointed side down. When
we transfer the eggs fom the carton to the
refigerator egg holder, we turn them pointed
side up. Does it matter which end is up?
CONAN AND TERESA COCALLAS
OAKHURST. CALIF.
Some experts recommend storing eggs the
way they are packaged, with the pointed side
down. Why? The theory is that keeping eggs in
their original confguration helps the yolks
stay centered rather than shifing to one side
when hard-cooked. We tested this theory
by storing eggs both pointed side down
and pointed side up for various lengths of
time and then hard-cooking them. Guess what?
No difference.
Our test kitchen has determined that eggs
are best stored in their original cardboard (or
Styrofoam) cartons on the top shelf of the
refrigerator (not the door) to keep them
from absorbing favors from other foods and
to maintain an ideal humidit level of 70 to
80 percent. Egg trays are typically located on
refrigerator doors, where the tempera
ture is ofen warmer than the recom
mended 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Cocoa Update
In the test kitchen, we prefer
Dutch-processed cocoa powder
cocoa that's been treated with
alkaline chemicals to temper its
bitterness (see our January /February
bought a box to give it a taste. Upon opening
the lid, we immediately suspected the worst.
Why? The more cocoa is "cutched" (or treated),
the darker it gets-and this stuff was dramati
cally darker than the original. While moderate
Dutching helps alleviate harsh notes, overzeal
ously Dutched cocoa tends to take on a taste and
consistency reminiscent of talcum powder .
Sure enough, in a blind tasting of Chocolate
Butter Cookies (page 23) made with the original
Hershey's European Style and the new Hershey's
Special Dark, comments focused on the latter's
dry, "hollow" texture, off-putting "black mud"
color, and "chalky Oreo" favor. Tasters much
preferred the versions made with the moderately
alkalized Callebaut cocoa (our mail-order favor
ite) and Droste, a widely available brand that is
now our top-rated supermarket cocoa.
Hybrid Brown Sugar
What do you know about Splenda's Brown Sugar
Blend? Can I use it the same way I would use
regular brown sugar?
TESSA CARREON
HONOLULU. HAWAII
Splenda is the trademarked name for a arti
fcial sweetener made fom sucralose, a chemi
cally altered form of sugar that tastes sweet
but isn't digested as calories or carbohydrates.
Unfortunately, Splenda lacks the volume of real
sugar-an important consideration in some
baking recipes. So Splenda has come out with
reduced-calorie spinoffs that split the difference,
blending sucralose with the real stuff Brown
Sugar Blend is a mixture of sucralose and brown
sugar that is twice as sweet as regular brown
sugar, so you use half as much. (One teaspoon of
brown sugar has 1 5 calories and 4 grams of carbs;
the equivalent half-teaspoon of Brown Sugar
Blend has 1 0 calories
and 2 grams of carbs.)
2005 issue). When we found out that
Hershey's European Style cocoa, our
top-rated supermarket brand, had been
discontinued to make room for a new
version, Hershey's Special Dark, we
B ROWN S UGAR BLE ND
We tested Brown
Sugar Blend in three
applications-choco
late chip cookies, blon
dies, and a streusel
topping (sprinkled over
a yellow cake )-tasting
them side by side with
versions prepared with
regular brown sugar.
Tasters detected a "bit
ter" and "soapy" afer
taste in the cookies and Doesn't come out on top
C O O K
'
S I L L U S T R A T E D
Z
WHAT |5 |
I found what seems to be a large wooden fondue fork at a fea market.
What is it really used for?
HUNTER THOMAS
GLENDIVE, MONT.
The item you've found is a tool from Hol l and cal l ed a pof
fertjes fork. Poffertjes are smal l , puf yeasted pancakes about
the si ze of si lver dol l ar that are sered topped wi th butter
and confecti oner' sugar. They are cooked on the stovetop in
a special cast- i ron or nonstick pan featuring shal l ow rounded
cavities. Once the batter i s pl aced i n the buttered cavities and
the pofertjes have cooked on one si de, the two- pronged
wooden fork (about IOI2 i nches long, with 2- i nch ti nes) i s
used to fl i p them so they can brown on the other si de. Anyone
keen on making this Dutch specialt woul d be wel l advised to
purchase the fork (as wel l as a pofertjes pan; both fork and
pan can be ordered from the source l i sted on page 3 2) . The
fork's long, thi n, sl ightly cured ti nes crdle the bottom of
the pofertjes in a way that a skewer or regul ar fork cannot,
maki ng the turi ng process a breeze.
Thi s wooden forK is used to fli p puff
l.ttle Dttc' p.mcakes, or p . t; g i n
a pee l ly des1gred pan so they c.m
brown on both Sides
blondies made with Brown Sugar Blend and also
found them somewhat dry. The cause of the tex
ture problem was clear. Real sugar has moisture
retaining ( or hygroscopic) properties; because the
Splenda blend contains less real sugar, it retains
less moisture. Where Brown Sugar Blend really
failed as a substitute, though, was in the streusel
topping, which simply sank into the batter instead
of crunching up into a recognizable streusel . Not
much of a replacement in our book-even if you
do save a few calories.
The Scoop on Synthetic Spoons
Do Exoglass cooking spoons have any advantages
over traditional wooden spoons? What are they
made fom?
AMY RAO
NASHVILLE, TENN.
Although they may look like they are made
of meltable plastic, Exoglass cooking spoons, a
product of France, are actually a blend of resin
and fberglass that makes them heat resistant
up to 430 degrees . Unlike wooden spoons,
which must be washed by hand, have a
tendency to absorb odors and colors,
and can split over time afer repeated
soaks in water, Exoglass spoons
are quite durable and offer sev
eral advantages . First, they
can be thrown into the
dishwasher without
melting or splin-
EXOG LASS
S POON
tering. Second,
being nonpo
rous ( unl i ke
wood) , they
Is this synthetic spoon
superior to wood?
don' t stain or retain food parti cl es, odors, or
bacteria, which makes them a good choice when
mel ting or caramelizing sugar ( food particles
can cause the heating sugar to crystallize rather
than liquef) or when stirring slow-simmering,
stain- prone foods such as chili, curry, and tomato
sauce.
Such merits notwithstanding, the Exoglass
spoon cannot enti rel y repl ace the wooden
spoon, which we sti ll fnd usefl when trying to
gauge the consistency of sauces vi a the "coating
the back of the spoon" test ( the slick surface of
the Exoglass makes this more diffcult) and to
scrape up fond ( browned bits ) from the bot
tom of a pan ( fat- bottomed spoons are the best
choi ce here ) .
So we're holding on to our wooden spoons,
but we wouldn't mind adding an Exoglass spoon
or two to our utensil drawer-especially given that
we fow1d one for a modest $5. 66. See Sources on
page 32 to order.
Battle of the (Turkey) Sexes
Is there any way to fgure out whether a
supermarket turkey is a "tom" or a "hen, "
and is there a signifcant difference in favor or
texture?
PAMELA LOPEZ
BIRMINGHAM, ALA.
When it comes to commercial turkeys, weight
is the best indicator of whether a turkey is a tom
( male) or a hen ( female) , as there are no obvi
ous visual cues for distinguishing the two once
they reach the market. Representatives from
Butterball , Plainville Farms, and Empire Kosher
Poultry all said that their smaller turkeys ( l 0 to
N O V E M B E R [ D E C E M B E R 2 0 0 5
t
Protecting Recipe
Ingredients
Ater making repeated trips to the
grocer store to replace reci pe ingre
di ents, Dani el l e L. Schul t of Evanston,
Il l . , fi nal l y got wise to her fami ly' s
rids on the pantr. Now she places
brightly colored sticker on any items
resered for use i n a recipe as soon as
she unpacks the groceries. Anythi ng
without a sticker is fai r game.
Stufed Mushroom Cups
For easier transport of her stuffed
mushroom caps, Henny Hal l of
Edisto I sland, S. C. , uses mi ni muf
fin tins. Each mushroom perches
neatly in a mufin cup, and not a
singl e bread crumb is lost on the
way to the part.
'Grilling' Buns Indoors
Hot dogs tste good any ti me of year
and are even better when eaten on
a wr, toasted bun. Throwing the
buns on the gri l l i s eas, but when
cold weather keeps Sarvuth Neou
of Cambridge, Mass. , from going
outdoor, he uses a toaster, letti ng
the buns lie on top of the slots, then
fi ppi ng them over.
Rubber Bands as Lbels
Broccol i and some other vegetabl es
come neatly contai ned in thick rub
ber bands. Katja Ptchowsk of Kew
Gardens, N.Y. , recycl es the bands by
using them to l abel items destined
for the freezer. She stretches a band
around the top and bottom of a
container (which al so hel ps keep
a l oose lid in pl ace) and writes the
container' s contents on the band
with a permanent marker. She even
flips the band over to get one more
use out of it.
Easier Bread Slicing
Sl i ci ng a loaf of rustic bread freshl y heated in the oven can be a hot and mess propo
si ti on: It's hard to get a hol d on the bread, and the crumbs tend to spry everywhere.
Hel ene Jasper of Portl and, Ore. , came up with a prctical way to solve the probl em.
I. Cut sl i ces of bread about% of the way down to the bottom crust before cri spi ng
the loaf i n the oven.
2. Because the loaf i s sti l l i ntact, it i s eas to trnsfer to a seri ng basket, and the
sl i ces can be tom apart at the tabl e with mi ni mal mess.
I .
Yogur Containers for
Cookie Decorating
After washing and drying
them wel l , Meg van Meter
of Ambl er, P. , uses yogurt
contai ners with pl astic
snap-on lids to store
cookie-decorating suppl ies
such as col ored sugars and
spri nkl es. She takes their
use one step further by
turning them into shakers.
I. Punch hol es in the l ids
with a paper hol e- punch.
2. Repl ace the l ids and
invert the containers to
spri nkl e decorations onto
frosted cookies.
NO V E M B E R 6 D E C E MBE R 2 0 0 5
'
Grav Carafe
To keep grv warm at the tabl e, as
wel l as eas to pour, Gl oria Aderon
of Yorktown . Va. , uses an i nsulated
cofee carfe. I t cuts down on spi l l s and
keeps grv hot throughout the meal .
Pie-Dough Spriter
Anyone who makes pie dough has
faced the probl em of dough that
is too dry and crumbly when it' s
time to rol l i t out. Knowing that
mixing in more water with a spoon
or spatul a can overork the dough
and make the crust tough, Ken
Sincl air of Newton, Mass . , relies on
a spry- bottle ful l of ice water to
distribute j ust the right amount of
water needed.
Soundproof Cofee Grinder
Nothi ng i s better than waking up to
the smel l of fresh-brewed cofee, but
no one l i kes to be jol ted from sl eep by
the l oud whi rri ng of the cofee grinder.
To mufle the noi se, Marhal l Ki ng of
Goshen, Ind .. places an oven mi tt over
the gri nder before tumi ng i t on.
Beef Stew, Provenal Style
Thi s beef stew from the south of France i s cou ntry cooki ng at i ts best bol d , brash, and
fu l l - fl avored. Cou l d we transl ate the fl avors of Provence to an Ameri can h ome ki tchen ?
D
aube Proven<al, also known as
daube Ni<oise, has all the ele
ments of the best French fare:
tender pieces of beef, luxurious
sauce, and complex favors. Those favors
come from l ocal i ngredients, incl uding
olives, olive oil , garlic, wine, herbs, oranges,
tomatoes, mushrooms, and anchovies .
But few of these ingredients made it
into the large stack of "authentic" recipes
I uncovered in my research. When tested,
many of these recipes were one- note won
ders-beef stew with olives or beef stew
with oranges. One exception to this early
testing was a recipe fom Julia Child, which
included most of the favors I wanted.
Although not without problems, her ver
sion inspired me to follow suit and led to
my main challenge with this recipe: I would
have to fnd a way to turn these strong,
independent favors of Provence into a
robust but cohesive stew.
Food Fi ght
Over the years, the test kitchen has devel
: B Y S ARA H WI L S O N
protested the extra fat on principle, but a
side- by-side comparison made it clear that
salt pork, like anchovies, added a richness
of favor that was unmistakably absent when
not included. In any case, the salt pork was
added in a single piece that I removed and
discarded just before serving, once the pork
had given up its favor to the stew.
I n the Thi ck of I t
oped countless beef stews as well as a reli
able set of techniques to turn tough beef
into tender stew: Brown the beef ( to ensure
Th i s rusti c stew has especi al l y l arge pi eces of beef that can wi thstand
the l ong cooki ng needed to mel d the flavors i n the brai si ng l i qui d.
I had been following the French technique
of adding a small amount of four in the
form of a roux, a butter and four thickener,
but up to this point I wasn't satisfed with
the consistency of the sauce. The butter
sometimes ended up foating to the top
of the stew, making it look greasy, and the
sauce was still too thin. I returned to our
established technique and omitted the step
of making a roux. Instead, I sprinked four
into the pot to cook out with the vegeta
bles and tomato paste. I also increased the
amount of four to l3 cup, which is a little
more than most recipes contai n. The result
was immediately noticeable. The extra four
created a braising liquid that thickened to
the consistency of a l uxurious sauce.
What started as a key ingredient in daube
the richest, meatiest favor) ; add the aro
matic vegetables; sprinkle some four in the pan
( to thicken the braising liquid) ; deglaze with the
predominant cooking liquid; add the meat back
to the pot; and, fnally, cover and cook in a low
to medium oven until tender. Our choice of meat
for stew is cut from the chuck, or shoulder, which
is notoriously tough ( the meat sofens nicely dur
ing long, slow cooking) but also favorfl . While
various chuck cuts are appropriate for this recipe,
I found that the chuck-eye roast offered the best
favor and texture.
Most beef stews have a personality-defning
ingredient, like the wine in beef Burgundy or the
beer in carbonnade. In contrast, daube Proven<al
relies on a complex blend of ingredients, which
I methodically began to test. Tasters loved the
earthiness of dried ccpes ( the mushroom known
more commonly by its Italian name, porcini).
Nisoise olives lent a briny and authentic local
favor, and tomatoes brought brightness and tex
ture. Orange peel contributed a subtle foral ele
ment, while herbs, particularly thyme and bay, are
a natural addition in anything from Provence.
My tasters weren' t enthusiastic about every
authentic ingredient I tri ed. When I added
anchovies, some tasters claimed that these pun
gent fsh have no place in beef stew. Funny that
no one noticed tle two fillets that were already
part of my working recipe. When I omitted the
anchovies entirely, tasters claimed the stew lacked
depth of favor. Over the next couple of days, I
quietly added the anchovies back in one at a time
and stopped at three fi llets, at which point tasters
praised the rich, earthy favors of the dish and
noticed a complexity that had been missing with
out them. ( They never knew the secret!)
Pig's trotters, a standard ingredient in many
older recipes, contribute body to the sauce in the
form of gelatin and favor fom the pork meat and
fat. But the protests against a foot in the stew were
too much, and this time I caved in. As a compro
mise, I substituted salt pork, a salt-cured cut from
tl1e pig's belly, and adjusted the amount of salt in
the stew to accommodate it. Several tasters still
C O O K ' s I L L U S T R A T E D
a
t
:
:
B I TIE RSWE ET/ S E MI SWE ET
What It I s: A catch- al l category. The government makes
no di sti ncti on between " bi ttersweet" and "semi sweet"
chocol ates. To be cal l ed by ei ther name. the chocol ate
must contai n at l east 3 5 percent chocol ate l i quor.
though most contai n cl oser to 50 percent and many
" high- percentage" chocolates have 70 percent chocol ate
l i quor or more. I f compari ng chocol ates made by the
same company, i t i s fai rl y safe to assume that the bi tter
sweet variet contai ns more chocol ate l i quor than the
semi sweet; otheri se. the terms are of l i ttl e val ue.
Cooking Tips: With relatively strong chocol ate favor
and a smooth texture when mel ted, these are the
chocol ates to use for sauces, frosti ngs. custards, and
i ci ngs. Whi l e many tasters enjoyed the compl ex favors
of the expensi ve, hi gh- percentage chocolates eaten raw.
for cooki ng we preferred the chocolates that were pro
porti onal ly higher i n sugar. Ghi rardel l i Bittersweet, our
test kitchen favorite, i s 44 percent sugar, whi l e most of
the high- percentage entrnts in our tasti ng were 30 to
3 5 percent sugar.
Substitution: Repl ace I ounce bi ttersweet or semi
sweet chocol ate wi th
2
/3 ounce unsweetened chocolate
+ 2 teaspoons granul ated sugar.
CAUTI ON: Because i t has not been conched,
unsweetened chocolate wi l l not provi de the same
smooth, creamy texture as bi ttersweet or semi sweet
chocolate.
TEST KITCHE N WI NNE R:
* GHI ARDELLI Bittersweet Chocolate,
$2. 29 for 4 ounces
What It Is: Real semi sweet or bi ttersweet chocol ate.
only with a sl ightl y l ower fat content (about 27 per
cent) . whi ch i mproves the chi ps' stabi l i t. Some manu
facturers repl ace a porti on of the cocoa butter wi th
pal m or other vegetabl e oi l s at the expense of texture.
Cooking Ti p: Whi l e we don ' t recommend usi ng chi ps
in chocolate sauces or puddi ngs. they do produce
acceptabl e resul ts when substi tuted for bi ttersweet or
semi sweet chocol ate i n a si mpl e browni e reci pe.
Substitution: Chop up bar chocol ate for cooki es when
chocol ate chi ps are not on hand.
TEST KITCHE N WI NN E RS :
* GUITTARD Semi sweet Chocol ate Chi ps. $ 2. 79 for
1 2 ounces. and NESTL
E
Semi sweet Chocolate Chunks.
$2. 50 for 1 1 . 5 ounces
Worki ng with Chocol ate
Choppi ng Chocol ate
A. To chop a large
bl ock of chocol ate, hol d a large
knife at a 45- degree angl e to one of
the corners and bear down evenly.
After cutti ng about an i nch from
the corner, repeat with the
other corners.
B. Al ternatively, use a sharp
two- ti ned meat fork to
break the chocol ate
i nto smal l er pi eces ..
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mel ti ng Chocol ate
A. Doubl e Boi l er: The tradi ti onal method for mel t
i ng chocol ate i s in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of
barel y si mmeri ng water. Sti r occasi onal ly.
B. Mi crowave: Mi crowave chopped chocol ate at 50
percent power for 2 mi nutes. Sti r chocol ate and con
ti nue heati ng unti l mel ted. sti rri ng once ever addi ti onal
mi nute. I f mel ti ng butter wi th chocol ate, add the butter
at the 2- mi nute mark when sti rri ng the chocol ate.
N O V E M B E R b D E C E M B E R 2 0 0 5
l
Stori ng Chocol ate
Never store chocolate in the refrigertor or freezer,
as cocoa butter can easi ly pi ck up of favors from
other foods. I f chocol ate i s exposed to rapi d changes
in humi di t or temperature, sugar or fat may di ssolve
and migrte, di scol ori ng the surface. Thi s cosmeti c
condi ti on, known as bloom,i s not harmful -bl oomed
chocol ate i s safe to
eat and cook wi th.
To extend the l i fe of chocolate, wrap it ti ghtly in pl as
ti c and store i t i n a cool , dr pl ace. Mi l k and whi te
chocol ates shoul d last for six months to a year; dark
chocol ates wi l l l ast for several years.
Decorati ng with Chocol ate
To create chocol ate curl s for cake decorati ng. scrape
a bl ock of chocol ate with a sharp pari ng kni fe,
anchori ng the bl ock careful l y wi th your other hand.
Pi ck up the shavi ngs wi th a toothpi ck or tweezers.
To write wi th chocol ate, put
chopped semi sweet or bi tter
sweet chocolate in a zi pper
l ock bag and mel t, ei ther i n a
mi crowave or by submergi ng
i n hot water. Sni p of a ti ny
pi ece from one corner.
Hol di ng the bag in one hand.
gently squeeze out the choco
l ate as you write.
The Taming of Hunter-Style Chicken
The ori gi nal chasseu r was a preparati on fi t for even the sorri est spoi l s of th e h u nt.
Cou l d we adapt th i s d i sh to the tamer, mi l der bi rds bagged at th e l ocal market?
B Y S A R A H W I L S O N A N D J O L Y O N H E L T E R M A N E
L
ike most "hunter-styl e" dishes,
chasseur ( French for "hunter" )
began as something of a culinary
makeover-a dose of creative
Renaissance cookery meant to assuage
the downsides of dining on fresh-killed
game bird. Smallish pieces disguised the
intricate surgery necessary for extracting
wayward bullets, while white wine, wild
mushrooms, and aromatic herbs helped
mask musky, gamy favors. Hours of gen
tle stewing transformed the tough fesh
into fall-off- the- bone morsels, just as the
stewing liquid eventually thickened into a
hearty, flavorfl sauce.
time was problematic-either the chicken
wasn't cooked through or the sauce was
watery and thin. For this recipe t o work,
it was clear that chicken and sauce would
have to spend some time apart. Perhaps if
we took the braised chicken breasts out of
the pot before they were done and threw
them under the broiler to fnish cook
ing, we might get crisp skin and have the
opportunity to thicken the sauce. Brilliant
theory, so-so results.
The best way to ensure crisp skin and
j uicy meat was now obvious: Sear the
pieces in the pan, then roast them in the
oven. While the chicken roasted, we could
fnish the sauce in the skillet. In other
words, we would cook the meat and sauce
separately-from start to fnish. Totally
unconventional ( this was supposed to be
a braise) , but we had run out of options.
Centuries later, farm- raised chicken
has eclipsed partridge as typical dinner
fare. But most "chicken chasseur" reci
pes remain trapped in the past, blithely
hackng up the tamer ( and more depend
ably bullet-free) birds into unappetizing
chunks or dousing the milder meat with
enough potent herbs to temper a caul
dron's worth of gamy grouse. Even the
versions that get the favors right strug
gle with adapting the cooking method.
Game birds ( then and now) have fairly
dark meat throughout, making cooking
For chi cken wi th crisp ski n, hol d the sauce unti l servi ng ti me.
So what di d we sacrifce by forgoing
the half- hour braise? Not much, it turned
out. Presented with two versions of the
recipe-one with braised chicken, the
other cooked with our hybrid method
tasters unanimously preferred the lat-
times roughly equivalent fom section to section;
by contrast, a chicken' s white and dark meat cook
at different speeds. Add to that the modern preju
dice against fabby, uncrisped skin and we had a
long way to go to update this classic dish.
Pi ece Tal k
Most current chasseur recipes opt for breaking
down a whole chicken, searing the pieces, then
braising them in wine and stock. True to the orig
inal? Perhaps-but by forgoing such "authentic
ity" in favor of either white meat or dark meat
only, we could eliminate one of our timing prob
lems right off the bat.
Which path to choose? Thighs are the closest
a farm-raised chicken gets to game- bird con
sistency, and that's the route we usually choose
when braising chicken. The rich, fatty dark meat
becomes meltingly tender when braised. But the
reality is that most Americans ( and many of our
test cooks ) prefer white meat. We decided to
see if we could develop a chasseur recipe with
lean breasts. Given the tendency of white meat
chicken to dry out and become stringy when
braised, we knew this would be a challenge.
Searing four breast halves in a 1 2- inch skillet
crisped the skin, but just half an hour of simmer
ing later, the skin returned to mushy fab and
the meat was very dry. Reducing the braising
ter. Not only was the skin crisp-and
evenly browned-but the sauce had time
to thicken. What about the transfer of favors
between chicken and sauce that braising would
allow for? While the connective tissue in dark
meat chicken melts during braising and fortifes
the sauce, chicken breasts evidently have little to
offer the sauce other than the fond ( browned bits)
How We Di d I t: Great Pan Sauce and Perectly Cooked Breasts
Bri si ng, which i s the trdi ti onal choice for thi s reci pe, works wel l with dark meat chi cken but not breasts, which tum out
parched and string. Here' s how we retool ed thi s classic dish to make sure we got perectly cooked chi cken breasts.
S EAR
Sear chi cken breasts i n a hot ski l l et
unti l browned on both si des.
ROAST
Roast chi cken breasts on a ri mmed
baki ng sheet to cook them through.
C O O K ' S I L L U S T R A T E D
l d
BU I LD A SAU CE
Meanwhi l e, bui l d the sauce i n the
ski l l et usi ng leftover dri ppi ngs.
in the pan. As for the chicken, it was pl enty tasty
when served with the sauce.
Fi er Fi ni sh
With the timing and texture problems ironed
out, all that was l ef to do was to marry the fl avors
of the sauce to our nicely roasted chicken breasts .
The original chasseur would have used whatever
wild mushrooms were growing nearby. But in a
blind taste test, plain button mushrooms were
surprisingly good.
De glazing the pan with white wine and chicken
stock was fne, but deglazing it with a touch of
brandy and fambeing it first was better. Enough
of an improvement to call for this daunting
yet actually easy-cooking technique? Yes . In a
repeat test, even the test kitchen' s most hardened
skeptics had to concur that the fambeed brandy
added a welcome hit of sweet complexity that the
sauce was otherwise lacking.
Unlike cacciatore, where tomatoes defne the
sauce, the modern version of chasseur uses them
as no more than an accent. A mere l3 cup of
drained canned diced tomatoes was suffcient . In
typical pan-sauce fashion, we fnished the sauce
by whisking i n cold butter and fresh herbs-in
this case, the victorious tarragon and parsley.
At last, we had a chasseur ft for the modern
day bird with its l ean white meat-and ready
for dinner in j ust an hour. Woul d 1 5th-century
game- bird hunters have preferred this elegant,
streamlined version? Hard to say. But for 2 1 st
century grocery shoppers, it' s a sure shot.
C HI CKE N CHASS E UR
S E RVES 4
If fresh tarragon is unavailable, double the amount
of fresh parsley; do not use dried tarragon. Egg
noodles or mashed potatoes make a good accom
paniment to Chicken Chasseur.
4 bone- i n, ski n-on chi cken breast hal ves ( I 0 to 1 2
ounces each) ,tri mmed of excess fat and ski n
Tabl e salt and ground bl ack pepper
2 tabl espoons vegetabl e oi l
8 ounces white button mushrooms, cl eaned and
sl i ced lfe i nch thi ck (about 3 11 cups)
I medi um shal l ot, mi nced (about 2 tabl espoons)
3 tabl espoons brandy or cognac
11 cup dry white wi ne
3 11 cups l ow-sodi um chi cken broth
11 cup drai ned canned di ced tomatoes
3 tabl espoons cold unsal ted butter, cut i nto
4 pi eces
tabl espoon mi nced fresh parsl ey l eaves
tabl espoon mi nced fresh tarragon l eaves
l . Adj ust oven rack to middle position; heat
oven to 400 degrees. Sprinkle chicken evenly with
salt and pepper. Heat oil in 1 2-inch skillet over
medi um- high heat until almost smoki ng. Add
T A s T 1 N G : Whi te Wi nes for Cooki ng
When a reci pe cal l s for "dr whi te wi ne, " i t' s tempti ng to grab
whatever open bottle is in the fridge, regardl ess of grpe varietal .
Are we doi ng our di shes a di sseri ce? Sure. Chardonnay and Pi not
Grigio may taste di ferent stright from the gl ass. but how much do
those di sti nctive flavor profi l es really come through once the wi nes
get cooked down wi th other i ngredi ents?
To fi nd out. we tri ed four di fferent vari etal s and a supermarket
"cooki ng wi ne" in five reci pes: brai sed fennel , risotto. a basic pan
sauce. a beurre bl anc, and chi cken chasseur. In our tests, only
Sauvi gnon Bl anc consi stentl y boi l ed down to a "cl ean" yet suf
fi ci ently aci di c flavor-one that pl ayed ni cel y wi th the rest of the
i ngredi ents. Di ferences between the wi nes were most dramati c
i n gentl y flavored di shes, such as the risotto and beurre bl anc. I n
contrast, al l five wi nes produced si mi l ar (and fi ne) resul ts when
used i n chi cken chasseur, no doubt because of al l the other
strong flavors i n thi s di sh .
But what' s a cook wi thout leftover Sauvi gnon Bl anc to do? I s
there a more conveni ent opti on than openi ng a fresh bottl e? To
fi nd out, we ran the same cooki ng tests wi th sherr and vermouth,
wi nes fortified wi th al cohol to i ncrease thei r shel f l i fe. Sherry was
too di sti nct and di dn' t fare wel l in these tests, but vermouth
was surpri si ngl y good. I n fact, i ts cl ean, bri ght flavor bested al l
but one of the dri nki ng wi nes. And at $5 a bottl e (for Gal l o. our
t
top- rated brand of vermouth ) , you can' t argue
. wi th the pri ce. -Garth Cl i ngi ngsmi th
HIGHL RECOMMENDED
OUR FAVORITE
Sauvignon Bl anc
Cri sp. cl ean . and bri ght, thi s wi ne was strong
enough to share the spotl i ght wi th other
i ngredi ents but refused to steal the show.
MORE THAN MARTI NI S
Dr Vermouth
A pl easi ng sweettart bal ance made thi s for
tifi ed wine a cl ose second. And, after bei ng
opened, i t can si t on the shel f for months.
RECOMME ND E D WI TH
RESERONS
I NTO THE WOODS
Chardonnay
Most i nexpensive
Chardonnays are si mply too
oak from barrel agi ng for
most reci pes. When cooked,
"oak" became bi tter, not
woody.
TOO SWEE
Riesl i ng
Thi s wi ne' s frui t sweetness
pai red wel l with a few reci pes
but was out of pl ace in other
di shes.
TOO SHY
Pi not Gri gi o
Whi l e thi s sl i ghtly aci di c, mi l d
wi ne won ' t rui n a reci pe,
i t won ' t i mprove i t much
ei ther, addi ng only a "generi c
wi ne- i ness" that fades qui ckly
i nto the backround.
NO RECOMMENDED
SLT DOG
Cooking Wine
The sal t used to preserve
i nexpensive cooki ng wi ne
. makes it unpotabl e.
NOT A TEM PLYER
Sherry
Compl ex sherry worked
wel l with the robust flavors
in chasseur, but its "earthy"
notes domi nated the si mpl e
beurre bl anc and risotto.
chicken breasts ski n side down and cook without
moving them until skin i s crisp and well browned,
5 to 8 minutes. Usi ng tongs, tur chicken pi eces
and brown on second si de, about 5 mi nutes
longer. Place browned chicken skin si de up on
rimmed baking sheet and set aside.
4. Add broth and tomatoes and si mmer over
medi um-hi gh heat; si mmer bri skl y unti l liquid,
mushrooms , and tomatoes measure 1 11 cups,
about 25 minutes.
2. Pour off al l but 2 tabl espoons fat from pan.
Add mushrooms and cook over medi um- high
heat until mushrooms start to brown, 6 to 8 mi n
utes. Reduce heat to medium and add shallots;
cook until sofened, about 1 minute longer.
3. Remove pan from heat and add brandy;
let stand until brandy warms slightly, about 1 0
seconds. Wave lit chimney match over skil let until
brandy ignites. Return pan to medi um- high heat
and shake skil l et until flames subside. Add wine;
using wooden spoon, scrape browned bits from
pan bottom. Si mmer briskly unti l reduced to
glaze, about 3 minutes.
N 0 V F , ll E [ I) E C lc M ll 1 2 0 0 5
l 9
5 . While sauce si mmers, place chi cken in oven;
roast unt i l i nt e ral temperatu re reaches 1 60
degrees on instant- read thermometer, 1 5 to 20
minutes. Transfer chi cken pi eces t o serving plat
ter and tent l oosel y wi th foil .
6. When sauce i s properly reduced, whisk in
butter, one pi ece at a ti me , until melted and
incorporated. Add parsley and tarragon and adj ust
seasoning with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce over
chi cken and serve i mmediately.
Go to w . cooksi l l ustrated. com
Key i n code 1 1 055 for the results of our
tasti ng of ei ght brands of vermouth.
This information wil l be avail abl e until
December 3 1 , 2005.
The Ultimate Linzertorte
What' s the secret to maki ng a perfect versi on of th i s Ol d Wor l d tart?
3 B Y T H E C O O K
' S I L L U S T R AT E D T E S T K I T C H E N E
An unusual techni que turns a ri ch nut crust and si mpl e j am
fi l l i ng i nto an el egant tart.
T
he ingredients for linzertorte couldn't
be easier to prepare. A food processor
produces the buttery nut crust, and the
raspberry jam flling is something you
buy. It's the process of transforming these two
components into a fished tart that can drive per
fectionists ( like us) over the edge. You can make
a homely but still delicious linzertorte with only
modest effort, but for the holidays, we think it
should look its best.
EasGoi ng
A linzertorte is more crust than flling, so we
started there . Walnuts made for a bitter, sof
crust. Our tasters preferred a mix of about 2 parts
hazelnuts and l part almonds. Toasting the nuts
was worth the extra step, but skinning the hazel
nuts-a messy and irksome process-was not.
As bizarre as it may sound, a hard-cooked
egg yolk is standard i n many classic recipes .
Several sources credited this unlikely ingredi
ent with creating a supremely tender dough
but tender to a fault was more like it. Dough
made with a cooked yolk was frail and crum
bly. Instead, a single raw egg moistened and
bound the dough nicely. Of the traditional
spice choices, tasters endorsed cinnamon
and allspice but rejected cloves. So far, this
was smooth sailing.
Roped l n
Rolling the dough ( and getting i t into the
pan) is where this recipe hit rough waters.
The standard method of rolling out the
dough and gingerly fi tting it into a tart pan
was ftile, as the delicate dough cracked and
split. Patting the dough in place by hand
yielded an uneven and unattractive crust.
Aer much consideration ( and failure) ,
we hit upon an unconventional but reliable
method. We took a portion of the dough
and rolled it out directly on the surface of
the removable bottom disk of the tart pan,
stopping j ust shy of the edges. We then
dropped the tart pan bottom into the futed
ring and pressed the dough by hand j ust to
the edges. To form the sidewalls, we took
pieces of the remaining dough, rolled them
into ropes, and gently pressed them partway
up the walls of the tart pan. Success !
A for the lattice, our attempt to sidestep
rolling out dough and cutting strips was
a failure; we tried crosshatching ropes of
dough, but they looked odd, and their wide girth
made them unpleasant to eat. The best that could
be done was to roll out the rather sticky dough
between sheets of parchment or plastic wrap, cut
the strips, and tl1en chill them thoroughly. Ad
forget about weaving the strips as you would if
making a pie. Linzertorte dough lacks the for
titude necessary for tl1at kind of manipulation.
Instead, by placing the strips one by one in precise
order over tl1e j am-flled tart, we found we could
mimic the effect of a basket-weave design.
Half- Baked I dea
Yet our linzertorte still fell short of perfection.
Beneath the l ayer of j am, the bottom crust
was sof and slightly foury, as if underbaked.
Adj ustments i n oven temperature were of no
avail . We were forced to take more drastic meas
ures : First, we prebaked the unflled pastry.
Though this worked, it was yet another step,
one tl1at required pi e weights and foil. ( Without
weights, the sidewalls slipped in the oven. )
We reconsidered for a moment. The bottom
crust posed the problem, not the sides. So we
threw together another dough, lined only tl1e
C O O K ' S I L L U S T R A T E D
Z
bottom of the tart pan-stopping short of creat
ing the walls-and prebaked sans pie weights.
The crust was now flly baked and crisp. Once
cooled, it was easy enough to use the remaining
dough to form tl1e sides of the tart shell . Afer a
quick slick with j am and the arrangement of the
lattice strips, we were ready to bake the tart.
To add some glitter and glow, we brushed the
dough with cream and sprinked it with coarse
turbinado sugar before baki ng. Served with a
fnal fourish of whipped cream, this tart fnally
delivered on the promise of its rich heritage.
LI NZERTORTE
MAKES ONE I I I NCH TART, S E RVI NG I O TO 1 2
Study the instructions before laying down the frst
lattice strip; once the dough sofens, it becomes
diffcult to work with. In addition, the strips can
not be repositioned once they have been put in
place because of the stickiness of the raspberry
fl ing. If, while you are trying to form the lattice,
the strips become too sof to work with, rechill
them until frm. If strips tear or crack, simply
piece them together as you form the lattice-any
breaks will become almost unnoticeable once
the tart is baked. Lightly sweetened whipped
cream favored with kirsch or framboise instead
of vanilla is the traditional accompaniment. The
tart keeps well for a day or so.
Pastry
I cup {about 5 ounces) unbl anched hazel nuts
11 cup {about 2 ounces) bl anched al monds
11 cup pl us 2 tabl espoons grnulated sugar
11 teaspoon tabl e salt
teaspoon grated zest from I l emon
1 11 cups {7 11 ounces) unbl eached al l - purpose fl our
11 teaspoon ground ci nnamon
1/s teaspoon ground al l spi ce
1 2 tabl espoons ( I 1 1 sticks) unsal ted butter,
cut i nto 11- i nch cubes and chi l l ed
large egg
teaspoon van i l i a extract
Filling
1 1/4 cups ( 1 3 11 ounces) raspberry preserves
tabl espoon j ui ce from I l emon
Glaz
tabl espoon heav cream
1 11 teaspoons turbi nado or Demerara sugar
(opti onal )
5
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