| ' ^ l K l | | |! 1 :- : | \ | .` l`1` .'\`` .

\
` . 1
JCXJS-`I,IC lJiDCcUC
Ol_ bO| |l3vOl, |lCH JCX3S \lUSl
lCSI |iiIICO 'licKC
/|3lll3CC JH3l |C3ll} VOlKS'
KJIi |JiIic rCSSCS
Ol_ VlllCl bOlvCS \3lllC |lODCS
CiCcIi JSIJ
'JrCSC
JO3lOCS, |OZZ3lCll3, 3lC |CllC
lCSI lIUCDCii, `cOCS
|lCH, L_Hl, 3lC |l3|
|riIICO |JrIic OIJIOCS
|CW |ClHOC, |OOl|lOO \llllll_
JJSIi JCJS
LOCS Ol3lC Ol |llCC |3llCl
|ClCCI |luU L3kC
|lCC2ln_:uUUCl |lCCuCC ||
:uUUCl |lulI :3l3CS
mCwICLIlll L3UC mCnS
|UICvln_bhllU :3l3C
www. cooks!!us1ra1ed.COO
S '` ':.5 '` L.`.\1.
U 7==7U 2BU5 7
O o`
|`i``
)ul, c ^uut ZI|
2 `OICS lIOH KCGCIS
UlcK JlS
b /UICIlc JCXS lIlSKCI
Lu!mlSSlCw3SSlmlC.VCw3ICC3U!lSKCIwlIhSlCw
CCCKCC, lIU3!UCCuC3vC!. LCulCwCCClIC 3Ch3!CC3l
g!lll: T L1PHLLb KL LbLT
> |IlCG |Ilc-KOSCHI\
lOIIOCS
MCwCCulCCu!!CClCC!l3 g!lllCCCI3ICCSUC
m!CvCC: VlIh g3!llC, !CSCm3Q, 3C3CwICChlquC.
T KL HLbbLH
| KCIlKly |IlCG |IlcC
lICSIS
VC w3ICC UCClCSS, SKllCSS U!C3SISIh3IC3mCChIhC
g!llluCj3C3vC!ul.JhC!Ch3CICUC3SCluIlCUCIIC!
Ih3 UCIIlCCS3l3CC!CSSlg. T bPLHP WU
12 lIIyly |\IOS lOHC
VC wC!CC!3vlg!CSI3u!3IS]lC L!CCK@!CSIh3IwC
CCulCw!3Cu!h3CS3!CuC.hC!Cw3SuSICC!CSSlg
!CUlCm. IhCmC3I. T bPLHP WU
1 lCIlCcIly lSI |ICSC
hlSSummC!ClSh CCmUlCS !lC ICU3ICCS, !CSh
mC223!Cll3, 3C!|g|IU3SllwlIhhCI3SI3. !CvCIlg
IhCChCCSC!Cm Iu!glICUuUUlCgum!CSCICC
3gCCCj!CUlCm. T HL LLLP PTb
1b lOv IO ICCZC UHHCI
lIOGUcC
VC!!C2C!CShljlCKCCSummC!!ulIS3CvCgCI3UlCSl3SI
SummC!, ICIh3wCCIhCm lIhC UlCClCCwIC!IC
lCCuIwlChmCIhCCSC!CC2lgwC!KUCSI.
T KL 1 HLbbLH
LMM` MWI1W
1o O\ lO |Il |OIlS
|IC lCS
hCSCUl!CS!CvlCCC!lSSKl3CCCllC3ICmC3I3C3!C
3 ClCg3I3lIC!3IlvCICChlCKC.
T LPV PZ WL
2 lCIICI IIlH G
LCllSIjlCSh!lmS3l3CS3!C uSu3llj!uUUC!j3CUl3C. VC
l ICSh!lU, IhCIhCC!CSSlg. T LPV1 PZ WL
21 UHHCI IUlI OS
LCulC3ClCU3!ICClgI!CK UC IhCSlmlC SCluIlC IC 3
UCIIC!!ulIS3l3C: T L H LHHL H
22 JC lCSI lUC!CII\ cOCS
VC3l!C3CjKCwwh3I3UluCUC!Q SCCCCCulCUCCQ,
C!uUUlj, C!CCSC. VC U3KCCCvC!dSCCCS IC3ChlCvC
wh3IwC KCw 3UluCUC!!j SCCC SCulCUC!lCh, llghI,
3Cl3[. T _. KL_1 PL
2 KUSIlc lUH |KC
huSIlClumC3KCShCulCUC3lCC3lShCwC3SCC!
SummC!!lCluUS, UuIlI lSCICCQ 3CShC!IC!!ulI
l3vC!. T L H KP HLL
2b | `OU lU\ |OOG
UCIiIlCI JC
LCuSC3lCU!3CS3ChlghC!!lCCI3gSI!3Sl3IClIC3
UCIIC!CuCIC3: T L bP LPb
2o J CIcI Ol IC lCIlCcI
|Ilc lICSS
L3jCu!ChClCCCg3!llC!CSS3hCCIIhC3vC!CjCu!
ClShCS:1CuCUCSu!!lSCC. T L bP LPb
J lIcC `OICS
T _. KL _ PL
J2 LUliCI |OICI
T L L ZPL LZL
LCICwww.LOOK5111U5ItaIEG.LOH IC3CCCSS 3ll !CClCS !Cm Cooks '''usrreJ SlCC 1VVd 3SwCll 3SuC3ICC I3SIlgS 3C
ICSIlgS.VICh vlCCCS C3ll IhC!CClCS lIhlS SSuC UClg!C3!CC3C SCCl3l !CClIS C IhC IC3 I3SIC ICSI 3C g3!llC!CSS ICSIlg.
SON FRUlTS h3vC 3 SlglC l3_C CCIC! lI, C! SICC. C3ChCSgCC!3llj 3ll lIC WC g!CuS.
CllgSICC,lwhlChIhCCShlSl!mlj3II3ChCCICIhCSICC, 3C!CCSICC,lwhlChlISCI.1CllCw
CShCC C3ChCS 3!C IhC mCSI wlCClj 3v3ll3UlC. VhlIC C3ChCS 3!C SwCCIC! 3C lCSS 3ClClC. LCuI
C3ChCS3!C3UCCC! IhCl!SQu3I, !CuCCCSh3C; IhCj3lSCh3vC 3SwCCI, whICCSh. lCCI3!lCS
3!C!Cl3ICCICC3ChCSUuIh3vCIhlC!, SmCCIhC!SKl.hCSm3llhCCjCCwCCI3!lClSSC3mCC
C!l!SCClC! |IhC! Ih3 3j!Cl3IlCIC IhCmClC. lumS |gC l Sl2C!CmIhClChlCg L3USC
lum UCI!C!C!CCCKlg)IC IhCl3_C!, uUlqulICuSUl3CKlum. lUCIwCC3!CIhCmCClumjCllCw
bhl!Clum [3j33CSCv3!lC])3CIhCCv3lSh3CClI3ll3!uClum.P!lCCISh3vC3lKlShjCl
lCwCClC!3CvCQ ICCC!SKlSIh3ICCCI!Cqul!CCCllg.hCluCIlS3C!CSSUCIwCC3lum3C
33!lCCI.hCUCSIw3jIC !CmCvC IhC lI !Cm 3j SICC!!ulI lS IC CuI 3!CuC IhC CCIC! CIhC
!uI [3lCgIhCSICmC!C3SC), IwlSIIhCWCh3lvCS3g3lSIC3ChCIhC!, 3CIhC!CmCvCIhCSICC.
HCK CVLH. 5iuic rut Uj jCh Ou!_CjC
|HI1CVLH ||I1|NG. Pccncs UjlIC!3IlC3llj!CCwCCSIlllllC3!IlSIcll23UCIhO|CC,wCSCwC!KS3!CC3Iu!CC3I
w .C|23DCIhU|CC.CCm
OI SI ICDI DOIRIOD, CODICI. b[6CI3ISlS |3IK6lH_ b6IC6S, |HC . , 17 |3IDOI CVG ., lD |OOI, V66D3WK6H, |] 7O7; 71ObDDO.
LOIOI LCC. 17 bl3lIOH bl., CIOOKH6, |P /D; b17/71; 3X b17771D7 7. bUDSCII[lIOH IHUIII6S, C3 OD7bOH/.
OSIRSICI. b6HG 3 H6W OIG6IS, SUDSCII[lOH HUIII6S, 3HG CD3H_6O3GGI6SS HOlIC6S lO LOOKS |USlI3l6G, |.L. COX 7b, |6G L3K, |P D1D1b.
OOk_
I I. L l S T H A D
W .COOKSUSIIdICO.COR
'!^l ! /^l!!/5 1!51 l!1Cl -
OUDOCI dDO LOlIOI L!S\OC! bUd
LOIOId LICCIOI dCK bSO
LCQUQ LOlIOI O b\d!K
CSIKICDCD LICCIOI L! CU!!C|
dDd_lD_ LOIOI CUCCCd tdS
bCDOI LOIOIS bC\ L!CSSC!
LSd CdUS
PSSOCdIC LOIOIS L!Kd b!UCC
Ld!CS bCSC
bdU!d VU
dIKCI HCSCdICD dDd_CI CSSd bdUO
LOQj LOlIOI V LO!UO
CSILOOKS . bCj P\
LdvU |ZO
PSSIdDICSI KICDCDLICCIOI d\\CW tC!!O
PSSSIdDI LOlIOI LZdUC\ bOZC
LOIOIdPSSSIdDI C!CU\ b\
bCDOI KICDCDPSSSIdDI TdUd LOCQ
KICDCDPSSIdDIS d!d LCd LC_dUO
Ld LUUC
LODIIDUID_ LOIOIS d\\CW Ld!U
LdW Tdd_dI
LODSUID_ LOIOIS bCO\\ b!UCCd
LU L!OSU
dSC! V\C
OUC!\ L. VOKC
IOOICdOCI Cd O_CI
YCD dDd_D_ LOIOI bd\C!C bC
YCD LOIOI LUSd CbWCCC
LDDC COd IOOUCCI |C\C! JdCUdU
LOIOId dDd_CI, OOKS LZdUC\ Ld!UU
bCDOI LOIOIS, OOKS Ud LO LdvSO
LO! Ldv
PSSOCdIC LOIOIS, OOKS CC JOOC
bd!d VSO
LZdUC\ V|jLCQ
CSILOOKS, OOKS bUZdd CC!I
bQd OO
C_d VCO
LCS_D LICCIOI P bCC
bCDOI LCS_DCI, d_dZDCS ]UC bO7O
LCS_DCIS ]d Ld
L!S\C VO
|d\\CW V!CK
bIdH DOIO_IdQDCI LdC . vd PCKC!C
VCC ICSOCDI dIKCID_ LdvU |dCK
LICUdIOD LICCIOI b JC
LICUdIOD UlRCDI dDd_CI Ld!!C tOI
LICUdIODPSSSIdDI LZdUC\ Ld\O
dIIDCISDQ dIKCID_ dDd_CI |Cd |U\!US
LICCI dl LICCIOI PUd C!Q
LICCI dPDdjSI C LCO_
IOOUCI LQCIdIODS LICCIOI b\CvC b!OWd
LLORRCICC dIKCID_ dDd_CI |U_ bUCd
dIKCID_ LOQyIICI LdvU LOUUC!_
LUSIORCI bCOCC dDd_CI dCQUCC VdC!O
LUSIORCI bCOCC HCQICSCDIdIvCS UC Ld!UC!
d TdCC
VCCICSOCDIbdCS LCCC LdDUOS
HCIdlbdCS dIKCID_ dDd_CI L LO_d
HCIdl bdCSPSSOCdIC P\O b_
IIDCISDQPCCOUDI dDd_CI P|C bIWC
IOOUCIODLICCIOI LU OCO!U
HC IO[CCISdDd_CI PCC LUSKC
bCDOI IOOUCIOD dDd_CI CSSCd L. jU!K
IOOUCIOD PSSIdDI LU!C |C\\dCCC
Rd_D_ LOOIbQCCdSI PU!CW dOC
VCC ICSOCDI MCWCCDDOO LI_ O!!OW
bjSICRSPORDSIIdIOI b. |UU CU_
LCvCOQRCDI dDd_CI US\ L!CCOU_
YCD LCvCOQCI LOU_ bSKO
YCD LCS_DCI Ld Ld
LDC DdDCd LHCCI bdQ LdUO\
MURdD HCSOUICCS dDd_CI PGCC bd!O
LODIIOCI dU b\O
bCDOIPCCOUDIdDI F!O LOISO
bIHPCCOUDIDI LOIC |OrOCS
LHCC dDd_CI LZdUC\ |O
HCCCQIODSI tC!C\\d U!I
UDCSI LCUO!d b!OUC
|T1LL |T JtL Lb
Z
C
<

O
z

rappi ng is a vocation that most lolks
don` t want to hcar much about. I t
sccms as outol datc as sap buckcts,
divi ni ng rods, and twohol crs, yct i t
wasn`ttool ongagothatmanyVcrmontcrsmadc
thcir |iving in thc woods. . M. utchcr had a
trapping supply storc j ust down thc vallcy that
attractcd customcrs lrom al| ovcr , thc sign j ust
lcl|downlastycar) . StanLincoln,wholivcdatthc
lourcorncrs, uscd to chcck histraps bclorc and
ahcrschool, making cnough moncy during thc
Dcprcssion to hclp support his lani|y. Hc`d gct
upcarly,hikcupintothcmountainstochcckthc
trap|incs,andbcbackintimclorschool .1hcnhc
woulddoitallovcragainbclorcdinncr.
Somcncighborsarcsti l l atit,sowhcnourhicnd
Jom purchascd a piccc olland twoycarsback,I
wasn`tsurpriscdthatitcamcwithasmall shcdthat
containcddozcns oltraps olall sizcs plus bottlcs
olsccntandwickcrbaskctsuscdtocarrytl:ctools
olthctradcupintotl:cwoods. I ncvcrhadmuch
stomachlor trappinguntil lastsummcr,whcnwc
thought a lox was cati ng our chickcns. Ahcr a
dozcnorsowcntmissing,ourncighbor{cancallcd
atrappcr,buthccamcupcmpty.1urnsoutitwasa
rcdtai|cdhawk;Icaughthim atitoncmorningas
Iwa|kcd outsidc withmyrstcupolconcc.
You candrivc throughVcrmontandmiss j ust
about cvcrything worth scci ng. You woul dn` t
mcct thc utlcr sistcrs, who havc onc pai r ol
l+lsc tccth bctwccn thcm. ,Jhcyswitch ollcvcry
Saturday night . ) r thc larmcr at thc country
storc who, whcn hc gcts cxcitcd, h aps his largc
carslikcanclcphant. Youwouldn`thcarthcstory
aboutthc|ocalswhogotintoalcudthatsawthc
crazicrolthctwolcavcadcadcowontl:cotl:cr`s
lrontlawn.rthcbitaboutthccarpcntcrwhowas
|11'111
'L :1Ll A\AY
storcswith signs that rcad, Ilwc
don`thavc it, you don`t nccd it.
utthcywon` tcatchthc csscncc
olVcrmontcrs, thatwc arc barc|y
a hal lstcp away lrom who wc
havc a|ways bccn-a tough, sc|l
rcliantbrccdthatCalvinCoo|idgc
considcrcdarcscrvcwc|lspringol
libcrty and indcpcndcncc in thc
cvcnt our nationa| charactcrcvcr
rcquircdrcbuilding.
worki ng outsidc ola woman` s
housc and happcncd to g|ancc
inthcwindow. Shcwasclcaning
upi nthckitchcn. 1hcncxttimc
hc lookcd up, shc was standing
at thc window toplcss, looki ng
rightathim. rthcwomanwho
had hcr husband buricd stand
ingstraightup. rthclocalwho
wcighcdagood3OOpoundsand
was kindly rclcrrcd to as 1hc
LittlcMan. "r,mylavoritc,tl:c
womanwhowcnttoaHallowccn
party drcsscd as a lront|oading
\DllSICDCl |lUU3||
Vcrmontcrs takc pridc in bad
wcathcr, look lorward to a hard
washingmachinccomplctcwitl: laundry, a box ol
dctcrgcnton top, and a cordwitl: a p| ugsticking
outthcback.
Itissaidthatpcop|cinourtownarcj ustcrazy.
Ilyou don` t pay your snowp| ow |i l l on timc,
you` l l gct pl owcd in, not out, whcn thc ncxt
storm hi ts . cop|c bui|d ba:s and paint thc
cupola bclorc thcyclosc in thc rooIWhcn onc
mancamchomcuncxpcctcdly,hccndcdupchas
ing his ncarnakcd wilc and ncxtdoorncighbor
throughthcwoodsatnightuntil thcstatcpol icc
showcduptorcstorcthcpcacc.Fightshavcbccn
known to brcakout at thc counirystorcovcra
casual rcmark. And any piccc olgossipworth its
sa|twi|l makc thc rounds thanks to shopping at
Waysidc and Shcrman` s, brcaklast at thc Statc
Li nc Dincr, orthc somctimcs notsonci ghborly
convcrsationatcollcc hourahcrchurch.
1hc uatl andcr tourist wi|| havc no probl cm
ndi ngrclicsoltl:cpast-thcol dbarns,tl:ctcddcrs
and mowcrs rusting by thc sidc olthc road, thc
larmcrs who arc still mil king hcrds, thc smcl l
olliquid manurc in April, andthccutc country
day`s work, still tl:ink that onc`s
rcputationiswortl:dclcnding,andcooktl:cirlood
at homc-a p|acc whcrc, by thc way, thcy wcrc
bornand raiscd. For cntcrtainmcnt, thcy stcp out
sidctohunt,h sh, barbccuc, changc thcoil,watch
thc tralc hom tl:c hont porch, or boil sap. 1hcy
know howto tcl| a story and know that cvcryonc
has a story to tcl | . And ila ncighbor nccds hclp,
wcl|, you don`t wait lor thcm to ask lor it. You
j ust show up and stack thc wood,jumpstart thc
gcncrator,hxtl:crool,cutdownthctrcc,ordrop
oll thc casscro|c . And whcn somconc dics, wc
don`ttalkaboutitmuch, bccausc thc racc isovcr.
1hcrcisn`ttimclorrcgrcts.
1hc world ovcr, i t would appcar that lilc is
livcd countlcss milcs lromwhcrcwcwishwc sti||
wcrc. I know tl:at to bc truc thanks to modcrn
pocts who, whcn thcy spcak londly olhomc,
mcansomcothcrha|| owcdground,cithcrdistant
orin timcs past . Hcrc inthcmountains,|ilcisn`t
a|wayscasy, butwc arc dccp|yrootcdinthcccn
tcrolthings, just a quickstcpawaylrom whcrc
wchavcalwayswantcdtobc and thc pcoplc that
wc had hopcd tobccomc.
|L| ! |j\!|!Lb, L|LL|b, \| |\|L ! |\||PJ!\|. LLLKb LLUHL3_3Z|6
w . COOKS USIf&I00. COm
PI w.CCCkSllluSI|ICC.CCU, jCu C3 ClCCl UCCKS 3C SuUSCllIlCS, Slg u Cl Cul |CCCwS
lCUCl, Cl lCCw jCul U3g32lC SuUSCllIlC. jCl IhC wCUSlIC 3C g3l 3CCCSS IC l` jC3| C Cook's
!umar:dlCClCS,CqulUCI!CSIS,lglCClCII3SIlgS,3SwCll3S Cook's!tv:CCU3lCvlCCCSCl
CvCQlCClClIhlSlSSuC.
LLLKLLKb
VCSCl|UClCIh3 S0CCCKUCCKSUjIhCCClIC|SC Cook's !dusrrar:d.CClCCl, vlSlICulUCCkSIClC
3Iw.CCCkSl|luSI|ICC.CCU Cl C3ll d111`V [Cl`l`2:V11 lCUCuISlCCIhC L. b. ).
Cook's !dumar:d U3g32lC [lbbl 1d:2d21), uUUCl d1, lS uUllShCC UlUCIh|j Uj OCSIC
LCUUC |SS LUlICC |l!C|hl, 11 b0IlC b!, OlCCKllC, lP 2`. LCjllghI 21 OCSIC
LCUUC lCSS LUlICC |l!C|hl. |llCClC3lS CSI3gC 3lC 3I OCSIC, l3SS., 3C 3CClIlC3| U3||lg
CCCS Lbb Bl2d1. uU|lC3IlCS l3ll(|CUCI lC. 211d. |Iu uCC|vC|UlC L33Cl3
3CClCSSCSICl.bCd1 `,b0IlCP,VlCSCl, L0llClVP2. PH.b03007 C03gCS
IC LCCKS llluSI|ICC, lL. bC 1, hCC L3K, J`l `Vl. l SuUSCllIlC 3C glSuUSC|lIlC
C|C|, SuUSCllIlClqulllCS, ClCh3gCC3CClCSS CIlCCS, C3lld`2d2lIhCL.b.Cl`l `21
1`11|CUCuLlCCIhC L.b., ClwllICuS3ILCCKS|||uSI|ICC, lL.bC1, bCL3K, J5|`V!,
! | | Y c A | ' | :1 . l l
l'`1o l1'^ 11/111o
v
IO!DID_ I!K
Whcnusingmymilk|rothcrtomakccappuccino,
I`vcnoticcdthat skim milksccmsto|oamupbct
tcrthanwholcmilk. Whyisthis`
b!bPTTL T'1V''L
LPbJ b!11L VJ.
>Wc pourcd 4-ouncc samplcs o|both non|at
and wholc milk into ovcrsizcd cups, whippcd
thcm up with a battcry opcratcd milk |rothcr,
andcomparcdthc rcsults . Jhc skimmilkindccd
|rothcd bcttcr than thc wholc milk. Jhc |oam
wasthickcr, morcstablc, andcomposcdo|h ncr
bubblcs;itroscuphighcri nthccup. Jhcwholc
milk |oam took l ongcr to |orm and was madc
o| largcr bubblcs that dcllatcd i n a mattcr o|
minutcs.
Asitturnsout,mi l k|atcontainsmonoglyccr
idcsanddiglyccridcs,twosubstanccsthathappcn
tobcgoodcmulsih crsbuthavcancgativcc||cct
on thc |ormation ol|oam. Jhcydcstabil i zcthc
air bubblcs introduccd into mi l kwhcn |oam is
madc, thcrcbyimpcding thc |oam` s |ormati on.
Skim milk contains a much smallcr amount o|
thcsc cmulsih crs,thusmaking|rothingcasicr.
Although mostbaristaswouldn` trccommcnd
usingskimmilktomakcrichandcrcamycappuc
cinos,i|plcntyo|airy|oamisyourgoal, thclcss
|at inthcmilk,thcbcttcryourrcsultswillbc.
S K l N N l LK
|ROTH D
WHOL N l LK
|ROTH D
When froIhi ng mi l k, |ess faI equals more foam.
KCHCCZID 1Dd\CU Cd!
Somctimcs whcn I thawIrozcn mcat, I can` tusc
itall. IsitKto rc|rcczcmcat|orlatcrusc`
L'TP1L |PLt'1b1!
VLbJiPTL !Lt.
to thc Initcd Statcs Dcpartmcnt
olAgriculturc, |ood that is propcrly thawcd in
thcrc|rigcratorissa|c to rchcczci nits rawstatc.
JHc on|ydrawback is a rcduction inquality duc
to moisturc |oss. Jhc slow proccss o||rcczing
thatoccurs in ahomcncczcr as comparcd with
a commcrcial lrcczcr) causcs largc icc crystals
=^11111 H` '.1H ^ \1
to |orm. Jhc crystals rupturc thc cc|l walls o|
tlcmcat, pcrmittingthcrc|casc o|j uiccs during
cooki ng. A sccond |rcczcthaw cyclc aggravatcs
thcproblcm,asthc mcat`sliquidrctainingcapac
i ty is |ur thcrrcduccd, allowingcvcn morc mois
turctocscapc|romthcmcatas itcooks.
Wc wantcd to scc j ust how much moisturc
was lost |rom rcpcatcd |rcczc thaw cycl cs. Jo
h nd out, wc cookcd thrcc 7-ouncc samp|cs o|
85 pcrccntlcanground bcc|oncstraight|rom
thc storc, onc that wc` d |rozcn and thawcd
oncc, and onc that wc` d |rozcn and thawcd
twi cc-ovcr mcdiumhigh hcat in a small ski l
l ct, draincd thcm, and mcasurcd thc amountol
liquid rclcascd. Wc thcn rcpcatcd t hc tcst and
avcragcd thc rcsul ts. Jhc batchcs o|ground
bcc|thatwc hadn` t|rozcn rclcascd Ytcaspoon
oll i qui d. Jhc batcIcs that had undcrgonc a
Ircczcthawcyclcwcrcdrytasting,havingrclcascd
2 tcaspoonsolliqui d. Jhcgroundbcc|thathad
bccn |rozcn and thawcd twicc was cvcn worsc,
rcl casing a |ul l tab| cspoon olliquid. So whilc
it`s salc to rc|rcczc dc|rostcd mcat, wc don` t
rccommcndi t.
DdK1D_ \I!D |O!U _S
I lovc to bakc, and I was wondcring why somc
rccipcscall|orthccggstobcatroomtcmpcraturc.
Docsthc tcmpcraturco|thc cggs rcallymattcr`
LPTP L1!1bLT
PL1b'T, T. .
>Cakc rccipcsoncn call |or room tcmpcraturc
cggs, which incorporatc into thc battcr morc
rcadilythancoldcggs.
Wc wondcrcd, though, i| thc di ||crcncc
bctwccnroom tcmpcraturcandcoldcggswasso
grcatthati tcouldactuallyruinabasiccakcrccipc.
Joh ndout,wcconductcda blindtastingo|two
ycllow cakcs. onc madc with room tcmpcraturc
cggs, thc othcr with cggs pullcd straight |rom
thc rc|ri gcrator. Jhc cakc prcparcd with col d
cggsproduccd a sli ghtlythickcr battcrandtook
h vcminutcslongcrtobakc. Jhc cakc madcwith
roomtcmpcratu:ccggshadaslightlyhncr, morc
cvcn crumb, but thc coldcgg cakc was cntircly
acccptablc. vcrall,tastcrsstraincdtodctcctdiI
|crcnccsbctwccnthctwocakcs,soit`sh nctousc
coldcggsinmostbasiccakc rccipcs.
Howcvcr, col d cggs can causc probl cms i n
hnickycakcs,suchaspound,angcl |ood,andchiI
|on,thatrclyonairincorpo:atcd intotl:cbcatcn
cggs as a primary mcans o|lcavcning. I n thcsc
cascs,wc|oundthatcoldcggsdidn`twhipncarly
as wcll as room tcmpcraturc cggs and tlc cakcs
C C C | : | | l | : 1 K :\ l l l
Z
didn` t risc propcrly. As a C|t CC C wcrc
toodcnscwhcnmadcwithcold cggs.
Jo qui ckl y warm whol c cggs, pl acc thcm
i n a bowl and covcr thcm with hot-but not
boiling-tap watcr |or h vc minutcs. Sincc i t is
casicrto scparatc cggs whcn thcyarc cold, cggs
can bc scparatcd hrst and allowcd to warm up
whilc thc rcmaining ingrcdicnts arc asscmblcd.
I|ncccssary, thcwhitcsoryolkscan bcpl accdin
a bowl ncstlcd within anothcr bowl h l l cd with
warmwatcrtospccdupthcproccss.
\UOIS DC \ODC
What`s thc bcst way to rcmovc strong odors,
suclasonionand garlic, |roma cuttingboard`
P1T 1'1 PLPb
t'!bJ'T, JL7Pb
>Jhc dishwashcristhc bcstwayto clcanplastic
cutting boards, but oncn you can`t wait two
hours to rcusc a malodorous board. Jo nnd tl:c
bcst way to rcmovc odors withouta dishwashcr,
wc took|ourcuttingboardsand cutalargconion
andmadcgarlicpastcouto|rawminccdgarlicon
caclo|thcm. nccthcywcrcniccandsmclly,wc
uscd a di||crcnt odorrcmoval mctl:od on cach
board bc|orc immcdiatcly washing it witl: hot,
soapy watcr. spraying with a mixturc o|I tablc
spoono|blcachand I gallonolwatcr;scrubbing
witl:a pastc o|I tablcspoon o|baking soda and
I tcaspoono|watcr;sprayingwithdistillcdwhitc
vincgar; and doing notl:ing morc than washing
withhot,soapywatcr.
A!cr thc boards wcrc wipcd dry, wc sliccd
applcs on cach onc. Jastcrs wcrc rcquircd not
onlytotastcthcapplcs|oro||avorsbuttosni||
tlc boards aswcl l . Jhc rcsults` nly thc baking
sodapastc-trcatcdboardwasodor|rcc;tl:cothcr
boards su||crcd |rom varying dcgrccs o|sulm
r ous odors and
a l l i um Havor s .
Jastcrswcrc ncarly
unanimousi nh nd
i ng tlc applcs cut
onthcbakingsoda
board h nc," with
no o||avors . "
S o thc ncxt ti mc
you sti nkup your
c ut t i ng boar d,
s cr ub i t wi th a
baki ng soda pastc
and |ol l ow up by
washingitwithhot,
soapywatcr.
P
&k|ng
mmsgo|q$rIzIng
O D O R AT R
8aki ng soda removes odon from
cuIIi ng boards.
bU_CIbOdKCU DCdDS
I ohcn soak dricd bcans ovcrnight with thc
intcntion ol cooking thcm thc ncxt day, but
somctimcs I can`t gct to thcm until a couplcol
days latcr. Will thcrc bc any advcrsc cllccts ilI
still uscthcm`
11!11 V1TT1
1L1T1, !1.
>Soaking dricd bcans hclps thcm cook norc
quickly and cvcnly than bcans that arc uscd
straight lrom thc packagc, but is it possiblc to
soakthcmlortoolong`Wccovcrcdtwobatchcs
ol Jricd black bcans with watcr and rcLigcr
atcd thcm ovcrnight. 1hc ncxt day, wc draincd
thc hrst batch and translcrrcd thc bcans to a
zippcrlock bag to bc rclrigcratcd lor thc ncxt
thrcc days. Wc l ch thc sccond batch i n watcr
in thc rclrigcrator. n day lour, wc draincd thc
bcanshcld inwatcrandprcparcdanothcr batch
using our quicksoak mcthod , covcring dricd
bcans with boilingwatcr and allowi ng thcm to
sit, covcrcd, loronchour) .
Wc thcn prcparcd thrcc scparatc batchcs ol
black bcan soup and lookcd lor dillcrcnccs i n
llavorandtcxturc. 1astcrs likcdthcsoups madc
withthcquicksoakcdbcansandsoakcd,draincd,
and rclri gcratcd bcans . Both lcaturcd tcndcr,
moist,crcamybcansaccompanicdbyarich,mll
bodicd broth. 1hcy did takc issuc,howcvcr,with
thcsouplashioncdlrombcansthathadbccnlch
soakingi nwatcrlorlourdays.1hc bcanslackcd
havor, thc skins wcrc tough, and thc intcriors
wcrcmcalyanda littlctoohrm. Inaddition,thc
havorolthcsoupwasthin,watcry,andbland,thc
bcanshaving lcachcd somc olthcir sugars into
thcsoakingwatcr.
So ilyou soak bcans ovcrnight and can` tusc
thcmrightaway, all is notlost. Simplydrainthc
bcans and rclrigcratc thcm i n a zippcrlock bag
or airtightcontaincr lor up to lourdays bclorc
usingthcm.
CC[ID_ |OOKICS bOU
I`vc noticcd that somc ol my lavoritc soh and
chcwycookicstastch ncthcdayI bakcthcmbut
harJcn up ahcr two or tl:rcc days. What`s thc
bcstwaytostorc thcmso thcystaysoh`
V1J!11 T1111
`1LT11!`JNT. !.1.
>Whcn it comcs to storing cookics ,chcwy or
othcrwisc),too much m cxposurcdrics thcmout
and causcs staling. 1o hnd thc bcst mctl:od lor
storing chcwy cookics, wc bakcd thrcc tcs-
chocolatcchip,molasscs spicc,andpcanutbuttcr-
and storcd thcm thc lollowing ways. in a zippcr
lockbagwith thc air prcsscd out, in a zippcrlock
bag witl: an applc slicc, and in a zippcrlock bag
wtl: a slicc olwhitc sanJwich brcad thrown in.
,1hc last two hclp kccp brown sugar moist, wc
wondcrcdilthcywoulddo tl:csamclorcookics. )
Y1P | b |:
T' sIoo' asoee ' yfa' 'yforoverS0yea. ' ve
sepI'I oecause ', ' ' se ygradoIer, ' oveIoco' ' ecI
a' ' s' dsofs'IcegadgeIs CayouIe' ' ewaI' I' s`
L1111 O17111
111JT 1!11T`, 1111
T' s 6 ' c' og, sc' ssor ' se coIrapI' o ' s a ' ro
p' eapp' e eye reover, or u' ' er, fro Ie |880s.
'I was des' ged Io reove Ie Ioug orow eyes
eoedded ' awo' ep' eapp' e. AfIerIe crow ad
ooIIoarecuIonofap' eapp' eadIess' ' spee' ed
on, Iesarpspoo' susedIod' gudereaIIeeyes.
NexI, Ie ad' es are c' osed IogeIer, caus' g Ie
opeova' cuII' gedgeIoc' apdow , exIracI' gIe
eye.WefoudI' sIoo' qu' cseradsaferIareov
'g p' eapp' eeyesw' I Ie I'p ofa par' gs' fe. Te
dows' de` 'IIoosawaya ' oIofIesurroud' gf' es
' Ieprocess.
Altcrhvcdays,allthrcccookicsamplcs cxhi b
i tcdncgativctraits.1hconcssimplypl accdinthc
bag had bcconc dryonthccdgcsbutwcrcstill
acccptablc.Jhoscstorcdwi ththcapp| csliccwcrc
moistbuthadbcguntopickupthcodorandh a
vorolthcapplc. Jhccookics storcd with a slicc
olbrcad bccamc surprisingly damp i n thc arcas
whcrc thc brcad touchcd thc cooki cs. cstlcd
togcthcri nthc samc bag,t| :chygroscopic sugar
i n thc cooki cs attractcd somc olthc watcr lrom
thcbrcad. Inlact,whilcthccooki csbccamcwct
tcr,thcbrcaddricdoutandbccamclai rlybrittlc.
Bccausc thc brcad was providing too much
moisturc,wcwondcrcdilusinglcssbrcadwoul d
producc chcwy, rathcrthansoggy, cooki cs. o
suchl uck. Hall andquartcr sliccsolbrcadpro
duccd si mi l arly |acklustcr cooki cs. Jhough no
longcrwct, thc cookicsdidn` t sccm anylrcshcr
thanthoscstorcdbythcmsclvcs.Sothcbcstway
to storc cooki csisalsothcsimplcst. i na zippcr
lockbagwiththcairprcsscdout. And,torcturn
j ust bakcd chcwincss to cooki csthat havc bccn
storcd lor scvcra| days, pl accthcmon a mi cro
wavcsalc platcandmicrowavc at lul l powcr lor
3O scconds.
DS!dD! S[ICSSO bUDS!I!U!C
Many chocolatc dcsscrts call lor a smal| amount
olinstantcsprcsso powdcr,which can bcdimcult
tohnd. Isthcrcasubstitutc`
1T111 11
|1T1 |1!1, 1111.
>Instantcsprcsso powdcr isohcn uscdto boost
thc intcnsity olchocolatc llavor. ccausc instant
csprcsso isn`t always availablc, wc ohcn call lor
instani collcc as a subsiiurtc. 1o tcst just how
much instant collcc shoulJ bc uscd in placc ol
instantcsprcsso,wcprcparcdthrcc rccipcs-pots
I' | Y c A''1 > 1 . l l /

1 S lVI~c00IUfgc00If&gI00 w&S US00 I0

S&f0gf0m0V0 I0 0g0S ff0m & g 00&gg0.
dc crcmc, triplc chocolatc csprcsso brownics,
and dcvi l ` s lood cakc-cach with thc amount ol
i nstant csprcsso callcd lor in thc rccipc, an cqual
amount olinstant collcc, and twicc tl:c amount
olinstantcollcc.
1hcpots dc crcmc madc with instant csprcsso
hadarich,darkchocolatcllavor.Whcntl:ccsprcsso
was rcplaccd with an cqual amount ola popular
brand olinstant collcc, thc chocolatc llavor was
wcak and lackcd dcptl: . Doubling thc amountol
instant collcc, howcvcr, madc thc havor compa
rablc to thcoriginalrccipc. 1hcoppositc wastruc
witl:thc csprcsso brownics,whichcxhi bitcdabit
tcr, ovcrwhclming collcc havor whcn twicc thc
amountolinstantcollccwasuscd. 1astcrsprclcrrcJ
tl:c brownics madc with aonctooncconvcrsion,
which had a strong, but not undcsirablc, collcc
llavor.Plorthccakc, tastcrscouldn`tdctcctmuch
ol a di llcrcncc among
thc thrcc batchcs. I n
thccnd,i l you can` th+d
i nstant csprcsso powdcr,
wc rccommcnd rcplac
ing i t with thc samc
amountolinstantcollcc
in bakcd goods and witl:
doubl c thc amount i n
crcamy applications l i kc
puddings, lrostings, and
mousscs, which contain
proportionally morc
l N STANT | LAVO R
chocolatc as a pcr
l nsIanI espresso powder
ccntagc ol thc total del ivers Ihe besI flavor, buI can
ingrcdicnfs.
i nsIanI cohee be used i nsIead!
5LML L5TLLHLL51|LM5 VCwllllCvlCC3CCUll
UCI3[CC,C3lSuUSCllIlCClC3Ch lCIICl wCll!bCC ,Cul
lqulQ, 3UC, 3CClCSS, 3CC3,IlUC IClCjhCCuUUClIC lCICS
I|Cn hC3CCrS, LCCkS llluSI|ICC, L. OC 1OoV, blCCKllC,
lP 21, ClICCICSlCUlC3CClSG3UCllC3SICSIklICMC.CCU.
JlS
. |'^!1il 1 Y 1.`11 !.Z ^J^' E
V0g0t0|0 1|m0z0|
|5\630 O w35_ V6_6\30| 65 | 0|V| 0u3| | y 35 56 6605 \6m, | | | | 6 6| 606Z O ||mO\, |.I., _6\5 3 630 5\3|\ 0y
C| 63_ 3| O 6| V6_6I30| 65 35 5OO 35 56 |6Iu|5 |Om 6| w66K| y \|| \O I6 5u6|m3|K6\.
.
HOt LOl Kk0
A ag' g' ' Icoa' s'agr' ' ' w'Ia
pa' rof' og ad' edIogsrequ' res
paI' ece.TeIogscao' ygraspoe
orwocoa' saIaI' e. SIacyO' ' Is[
ofP' ' ade' p' a, P. , usesaade' d
eIa'garderaseIoangeIecoa' s
asdes' red.
. ||3C6 \6 V6_6\30| 65 | 3 CO306| 30 w35 w|\ COO| |u|_ w3\6|.
2. L|y \6 V6_6\30| 65 O 3 C| 63 K| IC6 \Ow6| , \6 |6||_6|3\6 | | 306| 60
Z| 6|~| OCK 03_5.
W|00 OtL|0 LOll|
1O K66 0|5 |Om 5\3||_
6| \30| 6C| OI, bu L|3_ O
L3m0||0_6, 355 ., I| 65
3 36| CO| | 3| 3|Ou0
w| 6 0O\\| 65 06O|6
Ou||_.
. O| 0 3 36| \Ow6| | 3|
| 6_\w|56, I6 O| 0 | I |
\||05 | 6_\w|56 [| | K6 3
0u5| 655 |6\\6|). V|3 \6
5\|| 3|Ou0 \6 6CK O \6
w| 6 0O\\| 6, OV6|3| _
\6 605.
2.uCK O6 60 O \6 5\||
u06| \6 OI6| 30 u| |
\6 |66 60 \O \|_\6 \6
5\|| 5u_| y 3|Ou0 \6 6CK
O \6 0O\\| 6.
.
2 .
>cn0 U5YOUtJQ We w| | | prov|de a comp| | mentary oneyear subscr| pt|on for each t| p we pr|nt. Send your t| p, name, and address to
Qu|ck T| ps, Cook's |||ustrated, P.O. 8ox 470589, 8rook| | ne, NA 02447, or to qu|ckt| psamer| castestk| tchen.com.
C | | | : | | | |' : 1 K ^ | l |
4
M|l00 U|||| c|0|
OeofIeIesIs'Ice s favor'Ieways
Ioc' eaagr' ' ' w' IouIagr' ' ' orus' s
Iouseoa' ' ed upa' u' ufo' ' . Dave
LaLofSa Pedro, Ca' . f . , ' proved
o IecocepI.
. |ya |2oy |8 ' cp' eceoffo' |
oIeworssur|ace, IeceIer
Iwo paperIowe' sofo' ' . Dr. zz' e
paperIowe' sw' I2Iao' espoos
vegeIao' eo' ' .
2. Crup' eIefo. ' aroudIepaper
Iowe'sadposesevera'o' es' 'I
w'Iawoodenssewer.
J . Us'g' ogad' ed Iogs, orus
IeoIgr' ' ' sur|acew'IIea' u' u
fo. ' , ' eII' gsoeofIeo' ' ' easouI
adseasoIegr' ' ' .
o
Z
>
C
C

Z
1
C
Dm|0|0g W000 Lh|I
Mut000|I
Soas'gwood c' psorcuks'
waIerpreveIsIefrooum' g
Iooqu' cs'yoIeoIcoa' s. RIer
Iaas' gaIr' p' IoIes'Ice
foraco' aderIod' soasedc' ps,
BaroaSo' or' gofRocesIer, Y' . ,
usesac' ea,per|oIedowerpoI
IaIsesIoresouIs' dew'I ergr' ' '
' gIoo's. DupIesoasedc' ps' Io
IeowerpoI,a' 'ow' gIewaIerIo
d' ouI.
HOl|0O| Lh|m00j
Ught|0g
II6mI| _ IO | |_I 3
C| m6j SI3|\6| O 3 CO0
O| 0| uSI6Q 03j C3 06
|uSIGI| _. 03m bIO| | O
YOm| _, |C., C3m6
u w|I 3 3| | S36 w3j IO
3CCOm|S I6 I3SK w| | 6
uI\|_ | OOS6 m3_3Z| 6
| S6O C3|0S IO _OO0 uS6.
. ||3C6 WO O| I|66
m3_3Z| 6 | S6|I C3|0S,
IOO | IO SI|| S, O S66IS
O 6wS36|.
2. L|um| 6 I6 6wS3
6| 30 | 3C6 | I6 0OI
IOm S6CI|O O I6 C| m
6j SI3|I6|, I3K| _ C3|6
IO OI 3CK | I IOO I|_I|j;
|_| I6. 16 I|CK 36|
w| | | 0uO mO|6 S| Ow| j
I3 I6 6wS36|,
|OV| 0| _ | O_6|| 3SI| _
|3m6S IO | |_I I6 CO3S.
2.
||l||0g 5mll t0mI
6|6S OI_ WO|S6 I3 W3IC_ 6O6CIj _|60 V6_6I306S SQ I|Ou_
I6 _| _GI6S 30 SCO|C O I6 OI CO3S 06OW. Km O O V3COuV6|,
.L., uS6S 3 COO| | _ GCK IO |OI6CI
V6_6I30| 6S.
|3C6 I6 W| |6 COO_
GCK 6|60Cu3| IO
I6 _|| _|3I6S. M63I
O| 30OuI V6 m| uI6S,
I6 |u0 I6 GCK
|_I|j w| I O 06O|6
_|| _.
LItm|0ut0 5m0k0
VOO0 CS COI|0uI6 SmO@ 3VO|
IO _|~|O3SI60 30 03|06Cu60 m63IS.
O |6V6I I6m |Om 0u|_, I6j
muSI 06 SO3K60 | w3I6| O| 30OuI
3 Ou|. M3V| _ O@OII6 IO SO3K
| S wOO0 C|S 3630 O Im6, LO
L3m O 306| 3, |.,Ou0 I3I
3 l Jm| uI6 SO3K | 0O_ w3I6|
306Qu3I6j j0|3I60 I6
C| S 30 |OI6CI60 _
I6m |Om I6 63I
O I6 _|.
K0m0z|Dg |u|t 5t|ck0|I
ru' IadvegeIao' esI'csers ca oed'f
f' cu' IIoreove, especia' 'yfro sofI
produce, sucasp' usadIoaIoes.
Y' sqDawGauoaOofY' ssou' a,
YoI. ,caeupw' IIefo' ' ow' g
. D' pIecomerofapaperIowe' '
vegeIao' eo' ' . RuoIeo' ' edIowe over
IesI'cserad'eIsiIforaoouIf've
iuIes.
2.Pee' onIeoned' gsI'cserwiI
ouIdaagigIefruiI.
! | | Y c .`| C '.J . l l /

g|g 10mt0 5000|0g

Reov' gIeseedsfro oe or
woIoaIoes' sasap, ouIIeoo
oecoesI' ecosuigwearec
'pe ca' ' sforseve' poudsofIoa
Ioes. ]usI' uIcisoof'agsIan,
Ar'z. , one Iefo' ' ow' gsorIcuI.
. CoreIeIoaIoesadcuIIe
' top' eces.
2.Sp' IecoppedIoaIoes' Ie
oasseIofasa' adsp' eruI' ' osI
ofIeseedsarere' eased.RepeaI
Iesp' ' gprocessasecessaqIo
reoveexcessseeds.
1m|0mtu K0It|0g Kck
1| m LGuZ63u O b||_| 6| 0, || | . ,
O6| 3 OV6| w3j IO COOK 3 C|CK6
O| 3 |O3SI w|IOuI 3 |O3SI|_ 3 O|
VGCK. M6 | 3C6S 3 |Ou0 C3K6 GCK
SGj60 wI OSI|CK COOK|_ SGj
3 |2C SK|| 6I, I6 | 3C6S
3 J IO ROu0 CCK6 O| |O3SI O
IO O I6 GCK. l I6 3 0|| | _S
SI3O IO 0uO 0u|| _ |O3SI|g, h6
300S 3 6w OuC6S O w3I6| to \h6
0OIIOm O I6 3.
/UlCIllC 1CXJ> ll>KCl
u| `33O| v33 3|'C. \C v3|lC 3 ||3|Cl vl| 3'OvOO|C,
l |3||CuC '3\O|. Ou| vC O l O| 3 l3lO3| _|''

t may or may not bc truc that cvcryrhing
is big in 1cxas, but onc rhing is lor ccrtain:
Ionc Srar barbccuc is big on llavor, cspccially
barbccucd bccl briskct. I bccamc addictcd to
this tcndcr, dccply smoky bccl ycars ago on a trip
to tlc barbccuc bclt ncar Austin. 1his rcgion is
lomc to somc ol 1cxas`s bcst barbccuc joinrs,
or markcts, butchcr shops startcd by Czcch
and Gcrman immigrants in rhc mid-ro-latc Ith
ccntury who sold lrcsl as wcll as smokcd mcats.
1oday, tlc cold mcat cascs havc bccn cnrircly
rcplaccd by massivc smokcrs rhat cook mcar slow
and low. Alrlough various kinds ol pork barbccuc
and smokcd sausagc arc availablc, briskct-sliccd
ro ordcr and scrvcd up on butchcr papcr-is rhc
main artraction.
Y I.1l 1' l1l ' 1`
I will always rcmcmbcr rhc imagc ol a sword-
sizcd knilc pccling oll rhin sliccs ol juicy briskcr
outlincd wirl its signaturc dark crust. Morc than
anytling, that crust-crcatcd by thc low hcat-is
what scts 1cxas-srylc briskcr apart lrom all otlcrs.
Its inrcnsc, conccnrratcd Uavor is brought abour
by a mclding ol rhc mcar`s juiccs, smokc, and
scasonings. And whilc othcr kinds ol barbccuc
rcly on lancy spicc rubs or sricky sauccs, in 1cxas
thc bccl spcaks lor irsclL
S' ' c' gIe eaIaga' sIIe gra' esuresIaIourso|oaroecuedor' sset' sIeder.
Most barbccucd briskct rccipcs dcsigncd lor
homc cooks call lor a backyard smokcr-a smallcr
contraption mnctioning on thc samc indircct-hcar
cooking principlcs as largc, commcrcial smokcrs.
Wilc a homc smokcr would bc awmlly convc-
nicnt, in thc rcst kitclcn wc try to avoid dcvcl-
oping rccipcs bascd on spccializcd cquipmcnt.
wC LuS C b|| SKC
WH O L BRl S KT
POl NT CUT |LAT CUT
CuIfroIecowsoreasIsecI' o,awo' eor'sseI' saooe' ess,coarseg' ed
cuIcompr'sed ofwosa' ' erroasIs. Ief' aI[orf'I) cuIad Ie po' I [or
secod) cuI. Tesoooypo' tcuI[A) over'apsIerecIagu' arf' aIcuI[ B) .Te
po'^IcuIasore~aro' ' gadfat, ad Ief|aIcut seaI's' ean ad Iopped
w'IcaI' csfaIcap. Ourrec'peca' ' sforIew' de'yava' ' ao' ef'aIcuI. Yase sure
IaIIefaIcap 's`IoverIr' edad' si Io '/i ' cI' cs.
Bcsidcs, a basic kctrlc grill can
do cvcrything a smokcr can.
O bu|0 3 || |C
Butclcrs usually dividc thc bris-
kct into two cuts ,scc 1wo Cuts
ol Briskcr, lcn). 1hc point cut
las substantially morc lar tl:an
tlc Uat cur, so it was my hrst
choicc loi barbccuing. Iocal
butchcrs inlormcd mc, howcvcr,
rhat tlcy don`r usually stock rhc
point cut, as most cusromcrs
prclcr rhc lcancr Uat cut. I kncw
its lcan mcat was morc pronc
ro drying out, so down tIc linc
I`d lavc to hnd a way ro kccp
it moist.
I camc ro work carly on rhc
hrst day ol tcsting and sct up my
grill to cmulatc a barbccuc pit. l
builr a mcdium-sizcd nrc using 3
C |
'
` | | | | . k A | |

quarrs ol charcoal and rubbcd a simplc salt-and-

black pcppcr mixturc onto a 5-pound Har-cut
briskcr. I pushcd all dc coals to onc sidc ro crcatc
an indircct hcat sourcc and toppcd rhc coals witl:
somc watcr-soakcd wood chunks ,soaking causcs
thcm to smoldcr and slowly rclcasc smokc) to
simulatc a hrc mclcd by hardwood logs. I kncw
uis mcthod workcd lor barbccuing smallcr picccs
ol mcar, such as ribs and chickcn, but I was con-
ccrncd rhat my charcoal would burn our bclorc
thc largc briskct was cookcd.
Ancr placing thc grill grarc on, I pur my briskct
onro tlc cool sidc as lar lrom tl:c hrc as possiblc)
and put tlc lid on. A tlcrmomctcr trackcd tlc
grill`s intcrnal tcmpcraturc, which I planncd on
maintaining at around 300 dcgrccs by adding
handfls ol unlit briqucttcs. Evcry hour or so, I
rcmovcd thc lid ro rcmcl rhc nrc, which causcd
thc grill`s intcrnal rcmpcrarurc to plungc I00
dcgrccs. Gcrring it back to 300 dcgrccs took 45
minutcs, and I5 minurcs latcr thc cyclc bcgan
again. Atcr six hours, thc hrc dicd. I lcadcd
into thc tcst kitchcn, whcrc I translcrrcd tlc
undcrdonc briskct to a low-rcmpcrarurc ovcn
lor an hour ro hnish cooking. Whilc somc ol thc
mcat was chcwy and dry, tastcrs wcrc ncvcrrhclcss
imprcsscd wirh rhc briskcr`s inrcnsc bcchncss and
swccr smoky Havor. Bur rhc abscncc ol a disccrn-
iblc crust was a big lctdown.
What il I builr a biggcr, slighrly horrcr hrc,
onc thar wouldn`r pcrcr our? 1hc ncxr morning
I lit a hrc using 4 quarrs ol charcoal ro scc how
long ir would burn wirhour inrcrruption. 1his
mcant no rcmcling and no taking rhc lid olL
According ro my thcrmomctcr, thc grill`s intcr-
nal rcmpcrarurc hovcrcd around 300 dcgrccs
,just whcrc I wanrcd ir) until rhc lourrh hour,
whcn ir droppcd bclow 200 dcgrccs. Atcr a
total ol scvcn hours, rhc hrc burncd our and I
rcmovcd rhc lid ro rcrricvc rlc briskcr. 1hough
thoroughly cookcd, rhc inrcrior wasn`r tcndcr.
Bur all wasn`r losr. I lcarncd rhat constant mcling
wasn`r ncccssary and, morc imporrant, kccping
thc lid on csrablishcd a consisrcnr tcmpcraturc
rhar crcarcd a darkcr crust.
During my ncxr rcsrs, I discovcrcd rhat hrcs
madc wirl morc rhan 4 quarrs ol charcoal causcd
rhc briskcr ro cook roo quickly, making lor
cxrrcmcly dry mcar. Abour rcady ro pony up
thc planc larc ro Ausrin, I had an cpiphany ol
1cxas proporrions. 1hc idca camc ro mc whilc
I warchcd candlcs on rl:c tablc ar a dinncr parry.
Iirc can burn down as wcll as up. So whar il+ laid
down a bulk ol unlir briqucttcs and rhcn addcd
4 quarrs ol hot coals on top? I picrurcd thc unlit
briqucrtcs slowly carching hrc as rhc lir coals
burncd, crcating a rimc-dclaycd hrc ol sorrs-a
changing ol rhc guard.
1o rcsr my rhcory, I gor up bclorc dawn and
bankcd unlir charcoal againsr onc sidc ol a grill,
tlcn lit a 4-quart hrc in a chimncy srarrcr. Whcn
rhc hor coals wcrc rcady, I dumpcd rl:cm on rhc
unlit briqucrtcs. 1hcn on wcnr thc grill grarc,
rhc briskcr, and rhc lid. As I had hopcd, rhc nrc
burncd consisrcnrly in rhc 300-dcgrcc rangc lor
abour six hours, bclorc dropping roo low. I larcr
discovcrcd thar rhrowing I 0 unlir briqucrtcs
onto rhc n rc abour halIay through cooking
providcd cnough cxrra mcl to rcndcr thc briskcr
pcrlcctly rcndcr.
P L|uS\ 3S b|_ 3S CX3S
1o bc up ro 1cxas srandards, my briskct nccdcd
an cvcn thickcr crusr. In rcal Ionc Star barbccuc,
rhc briskcr rurns crusry lrom slow, gcnrlc brown-
ing ol rhc mcat, as wcll as lrom soor. ^l thc
1 LHW1|M !1Y^1^\ 1\1Y \Y111 1^!\ b`\1!Y
Te ass've sosersused 'Texasep' oy' d' recI eaIcoos' gIoIumIougcuIs' ' seor'sseIIeder.Wed' dIe
saeI' g'aseII'egr' ' ' oypus' gIe' ' Icoa' sasfarIooes' deasposs' o' e. P' ac' gu' ' Icoa' soeeaIIe''Icoa's
seepsIef'rego' gsIrogforou. Toesureas'owre' easeofsose, wep' acedsoasedwoodcukoIecoa's.
Wea'so puIad' sposao' epaf' ' ' edw'IwaIeroe' owIeor' sseIIoecoumgeIep' ssoser' guderIecrusI.
Fo| l tent
salt-and-pcppcr lormula nccdcd was a lirrlc sugar;
which turncd rhc mcar`s cxtcrior inro a grcat
dark-brown crust that rasrcrs lound addictivc.
A lcw rricks-likc lcaving rhc lat cap lntact and
rcnting rhc mcar wlrh aluminum loil lor parr ol
rhc cooking rimc-hclpcd kccp rl:c lcan llat-cur
briskcr moist but didn`t ollcr a complcrc solu-
rion. 1hcn I rhought about how wc usually rrcat
lcan prorcins-chickcn, rurkcy, and pork-in rhc
rcst kitchcn bclorc grilling. Wc brinc thcm. I
didn`t want ro add any morc rimc to my rccipc,
bur I rloughr it would bc worth ir ll ir workcd.
Surc cnough, brinlng thc brlskcr lor rwo hours
cnsurcd thar cach slicc was juicy.
Arcr barbccuing wcl| ovcr I00 pounds ol bccl,
I had thc rcal dcal. I lad curcd my craving wirl:
a rccipc lor homcmadc barbccucd briskcr rhar no
1cxan could rcsist.
bPHb L L U L U b L L r b H 5 K L1
bLHNLb L
Wc prclcr hickory wood chunks to smokc our
briskct. Iccan, maplc, oak, or lruirwoods such
as applc, chcrry, and pcach also work wcll. It is
bcsr ro avoid mcsquitc, which rurns birrcr dur-
ing rhc long proccss ol barbccuing. Lsc wood
chunks that arc about thc sizc ol a tcnnis ball. Il
your briskct is smallcr tlan 5 pounds or rhc lar
cap has bccn rcmovcd, or il you arc using a small
Vents open
hal haj
Soaked wood chunks
charcoal or 2-burncr gas grill, ir may bc ncccssary
to build a loil shicld in ordcr to kccp rhc briskct
lrom bccoming too dark. ,Scc illustrarion on
pagc 8. )A 5 to o-pound poinr-cur briskcr can bc
uscd in rhc rccipc, bur bccausc it is a rhickcr piccc
ol mcar ir may nccd to bc hnishcd in thc ovcn
,scc insrructions in srcp 5 ol rccipc). Il using thc
latricr point cur, omit thc stcp ol brining. Somc
ol thc rradirional accompanimcnts ro barbccucd
briskcr includc barbccuc saucc ,our rccipc lor
1cxas-Srylc Barbccuc Saucc is availablc ncc ar
cooksillusrrarcd.com/augusr), sliccd whirc brcad
or salrinc crackcrs, pickc chips ,scc rhc rcsulrs ol
our brcad-and-burrcr picklc rasring, on pagc 30),
and thinly sliccd onion.
flatcut beef br| sket, !to 6 pounds
/ cup tabl e sal t
' / cup pl us 2 tabl espoons sugar
J ( J-| nch) wood chunks (see note above)
J tabl espoons kosher sal t
2 tabl espoons ground bl ack pepper
D| sposabl e lJ bj 9-| nch al um| num roast| ng pan
I. Lsing sharp knilc, cur slits in lat cap, spaccd
I inch aparr, in crossharch pattcrn, bcing carc-
ml ro nor cut into mcar. Dissolvc rablc salt and
/ cup sugar in 4 quarrs cold warcr in srockpot
or largc buckct. Submcrgc briskcr in brinc and
rclrigcratc lor 2 lours.
K L1Y HMK1HPWD 1Y11\!11 1Y1`1!!
SCOR B Rl N S AS ON T NT ADD |U L |Ll P TAK T N P RATUR R ST S L l C
|. bLLHL Use sarp s'feIo cuIs' ' Is' faIcap ' ' caparI. 2. Hl|L Suoege or' sseI' or' ead refr'geraIefor2 ours. J. bbbL| Ruo sa' I pepper sugar~'xIureover
eI' reor'sseIad ' Ios' 'Is. R. 1L|1 P' aceor' sseIocoo' ers' deofgr' ' ' ad ' oose' ycoverw' Ia' u' ufo' ' . 5. LL LLL AfIerJ ours, qu' cs'yadd |0u' ' tor' quettestorc.
6. FL| D' scardfo' ' , f' ' peaI, adroIaIeor' sseIsoIaIs' dec' osesIIof're' sfarIesIaway. 1. 1KL 1L|LH1LHL Coosor' sseIfor2Io+ oreoursuI' ' I' csesIpaofeaI
reaces |Sdegrees. d. HLb TrasfereaIIocuII' gooard, ' oose' yIeIw' Ifo' ' , ad ' eIresIforJ0' uIes. 7.bLLL S' ' ceeaIacrossgra' ' Io' og, I' s' ' ces.
)'J` c ^'': 1 . l l
/
> L L M L L . YDy | S b|| SKC || DK
' Ie copeI' I've oaroecuewor' d, cap' os' p
or'sseIa'wayscoIa' saI' cssoser' g-Ie
7+ ' c p' s' ayer usIoeeaIIeeaI ssur|ace.
OfIe' sIaseforuderdoeeaI, soser'gs-
w' cdo IanecItsIe-occur' osIoaroecued
eaIs.Desp' Ieteae, sosedoes` Ip' ayuc
ofaro' e' creaI' gasoser' g. ' I` s acIua' ' y caused
oyreacI' osIaIoccurwe eaI'scoosedfora
' ogI' eaIa'owIeperaIure'ac' osedcaoer
[' e. , oaroecued) .Tef'ree' IsgassesIaId' sso've
' Ieo' sIureoIesur|aceofIeeaIIocreaIe
ew copoudss' ' ' arIo Ie ' IIes IaI seep
de' ' eaIsp' s. 'foudIaIp' ac' gapaofwaIer
' Iegr' ' ' addedeoug o' sture Io guamIeea
propersoser| g. -C K.
2. Wlilc briskct brincs, soak wood chunks in
watcr lor at lcast I hour, drain. Rcmovc briskcr
lrom brinc and pat dry with papcr towcls; translcr
to rimmcd baking shcct. Combinc koshcr salt,
pcppcr, and rcmaining 2 tablcspoons sugar in
small bowl. Rub salt mixturc ovcr cntirc briskcr
and into slits.
3. About 20 minutcs bclorc grilling, opcn
top and bottom grill vcnts lallay and arrangc
3 quarts unlit charcoal ,about 50 briqucttcs)
bankcd against onc sidc ol grill. Ilacc disposablc
pan nllcd with 2 cups ol watcr on cmpty sidc ol
grill. Iiglt largc chimncy startcr hllcd two-thirds
with charcoal , 4 quarts, or about o5 briqucttcs)
and allow to burn until coals arc mlly ignitcd and
covcrcd witl thin laycr ol asl, I5 ro 20 minutcs.
Fmpty coals into grill, on top ol unlit briqucttcs,
to covcr onc third ol grill with coals stccply
bankcd against sidc ol grill. Ilacc soakcd wood
chunks on coals. Iosition cooking gratc ovcr
coals, covcr grill, and lcat grarc unril hot, about 5
minutcs; scrapc gratc clcan with grill brush.
4. Ilacc briskct latsidc down on gratc ovcr
coolcr sidc ol grill, as lar away lrom hrc as pos-
siblc witlout toucling wall ol grill . Il briskct has
pronounccd thickcr sidc, position it lacing n rc.
Iooscly tcnt mcat with lcavy duty aluminum
loil or build loil slicld ,scc illustration at right).
Covcr grill, positioning top vcnt ovcr briskct to
draw smokc througl grill. Cook briskct without
rcmoving lid lor 3 lours. ,Initial tcmpcraturc ol
grill will bc about 400 dcgrccs and will drop to
about 325 dcgrccs ahcr 3 hours. )
5. Working quickly, add I0 unlit briqucttcs to
hrc and opcn bottom vcnts all thc way. Rcmovc
and discard loil lrom briskct, Hip mcar and rotatc
so sidc that was closcst to hrc is now larthcst
away. Covcr grill witl top vcnts ovcr briskct and
cook until tcndcr and instantrcad thcrmomctcr
inscrtcd into tlickcst part ol mcat rcgistcrs I 5
dcgrccs, 2 to 4 morc lours. ,Iinal tcmpcraturc ol
grill will bc about 250 dcgrccs. ) Il ahcr 4 lours
mcat docs not rcgistcr I5 dcgrccs, rcmovc bris-
kct lrom grill, translcr to wirc rack sct in rimmcd
baking slcct lincd witl aluminum loil, and placc
in 325dcgrcc ovcn on middlc rack until mcat
comcs up to tcmpcraturc.
o. 1ranslcr briskct to cutting board and lct
rcst 30 minutcs, tcntcd witl loil. Cut mcat across
grain into long, thin sliccs; scrvc immcdiatcly.
bPH b L L U L U b L L r b Hl 5 KL 1 O M P UP5 U H l LL
It is ncccssary to dividc thc wood clips bctwccn
two disposablc aluminum pans, onc wirl and
onc without watcr. 1lc watcr in thc onc pan will
dclay tlc smoking ol thc chips, thus cxtcnding
tl:c timc tlc briskct is cxposcd to smokc.
I . Iollow rccipc lor Barbccucd Bccl Briskct
through stcp 2, substituting 4 cups wood chips,
soakcd in watcr to covcr lor 30 minutcs, lor wood
chunks. Drain clips and placc 2 cups in small
disposablc aluminum pan. Ilacc rcmaining 2 cups
in anotl:cr small disposablc aluminum pan along
witl I cup watcr. Sct pans on primary burncr
,burncr that will rcmain on during barbccuing).
Instcad ol largc aluminum roasting pan, placc
incl aluminum pic platc nllcd witl: 2 cups watcr
Q U l P N N T T S T l N C . b3|DCCuC DC|mCmCC|S
W'Is'ow ad 'owoaroecu' g, ' I sespec' a' 'y' poIaIIoo' IorIe
IepeIureofIef|rew' IouIope' gIegr' ' ' ' ' d. ' fyour gr' ' ' does I
ave a ou' ' I ' IeroeIer, ' I sa good ' deaIoouyoe. We IesIed
e'gl cve ad oaroecue lecele, d' g' la' ad d' a' faced, a' ' of
w'c cou' d s' 'p IougIegr' ' ' ' ' d' svelo' es.Wefouda surpr' s
' gge offeaIuresad pr'ces-fro I/. 77 IoI77 OurIwo favor
' les Iumed ouIIo oe Ie ceapesI ode' sIesIed. Ie Weoer73 ' !
Rep|aceeI ood TeroeIer I/ 77) ad Ie Po' der Sta' ' ess
SIee'Dua' Ove/YeaITeroeIer [ I'0) . oracoup' edo' ' aore
la IeWeoer,Ie Po' derg'vesyous' u' IaeouseaIadoveIe
peaIue read' gs. OIeg' ' ' , a eaIproofs' ' ' coef' gergr' p uder
led' a' a' ' ows you IoIaseIeIeroeIerouIofIe' ' dveIs ad
cecsIeIepeIureofIeeaI orccp' eIeIesI' gresu' Is, goIo
w . cooss' ' ' uslled. co/augusl -c' 'zaoel Boze
TO P TH E RM O M ETER
The Po| der Dua| Oven/Neat
Thermometer a| | ows you to mon| tor
the gr| | | ' s | nternal temperature before
check| ng the meat for doneness.
C C C |

S | | | | S k A | |
d
TE CH N I Q U \11 bl1!11
\Y b`11!Y \Y111b
Weus' gacarcoa'gr' ' ' ' essIa22 ' ces'
d' aeIeroagasg' ' ' w' Io'yIwooure, or
weoaroecu' gasa' ' or' sseIw' IouIafaIcap,
wefoud' IecessaqIoaseafo' ' s' e' dIopro
IecIIeor'sseIfrogeII' gIoodar':ad 'eaIeq
oIes' dec' osesIloIeeal. Tesh'e|d'so'y
eededforIef'la' fofcoos' g.
Yase Iwo z ' cfo' dso ' ogs' deof ' 3 oy20
' cp' eceofeayduqa' u' ufo''Ioforre'
forced edge. P'acefo'' o ceIerofcoos' ggIe,
w'I re'forced edgeoveroIs'de ofgr' ' ' . Pos'I'o
o'sset,faIs' dedow,overcoo's'deofgr' ' ' soIaI'I
coveaoouIoeI' rdoff o' ' Pu' ' fo' ' overor|sseIIo
' oose'yIeI' I, reovefo' ' asd' recIed 'sIep !.
on otl:cr burncr,s). Iosition cooking gratc ovcr
burncrs. 1urn all burncrs to high and hcat witl
lid down until vcry lot, about I5 minutcs. Scrapc
grarc clcan with grill brusl. 1urn primary burncr
to mcdiumhigh and rurn oll otl:cr burncr,s).
2. Ilacc briskct latsidc down on gratc ovcr
coolcr sidc ol grill, as lar away lrom hrc as pos-
siblc withour toucling wall ol grill. Il briskct las
pronounccd tlickcr sidc, position it lacing hrc.
Iooscly tcnt mcat with aluminum loil or build
loil shicld ,scc illustrarion abovc). Cook, witl:out
raising lid, lor 3 hours. 1ranslcr briskct to wirc
rack sct in rimmcd baking shcct lincd with loil.
3. Mcanwlilc, adjust ovcn rack to middlc
position and hcat ovcn to 325 dcgrccs. Roast
briskct until tcndcr and instantrcad tl:crmom-
ctcr inscrtcd into tl:ickcst parr ol mcat rcgistcrs
I 5 dcgrccs, I ': to 2 hours. 1ranslcr briskct to
cutring board and lct rcst lor 30 minutcs, looscly
tcntcd witl loil. Cut briskct across grain into
long, thin sliccs and scrvc immcdiatcly.
COOK' S L VL Or'_' a' TeslK' Icev' decs
www. C OOKS | | u S I|3I60 . C Om
LLl L M 0 b L LLMb
BaroecuedBeefBr'sseI
Vl L L l b
T' psforoeIIeroaroecu' g
owdo'oaroecueor'sseIoagasgr' ' ' `
WaI' sasose' g'
L
Z
>
C
C
o

Z
1
C
'lluC 'JluC- KO>ClJl\ OlJlOC>
Ov Ou' Ou| |C|C O| ||3| _|''C |Ol3lOC3 |C `||O\C
\l| |O3C`3|,, _3|', 3| 3 |Cv lC||quC.

hc tcst kitchcn`s cstablishcd tcchniquc

lor grilling potatocs nccds no improvc
mcnt. Halvc and skcwcr small rcd pota
rocs, parboil thcm, brush thcm with
olivc oil, and thcn quickly placc thcm on thc hot
grih. Bcsidcs yiclding pcrlcctly cookcd potatocs-
charrcd ,not burnt) cxtcriors, smooth and crcamy
intcriors, and plcnty ol smoky llavor-thc skcwcrs
hold thcm togcthcr, allowing lor hasslc-lrcc trans
lcr lrom pot to grill to scrving plattcr.
Sccing as thcrc arc no nncr complcmcnts lor
potatocs than garlic and roscmary, I dccidcd to
scc il I could incorporatc this combination into
our rccipc. Coating thc potatocs witl: oil, garlic,
and roscmary prior to grilling sccmcd too casy,
and it was. 1hc garlic burncd and bccamc bit
tcr, and thc roscmary charrcd. I tricd tossing thc
potatocs in thc oil ancr thcy camc oll thc grill,
but thc raw garlic was too harsH. 1astcrs winccd.
Clcarly, this was going to takc somc cxpcri
mcnting. nc ol my hrst idcas was to add crushcd
garlic clovcs and roscmary sprigs to thc watcr in
which thc potatocs wcrc parboilcd, hoping tl:c
potatocs would drink up rhcir Havors. Hardly.
Switching gcars, I dccidcd to prccook thc
skcwcrcd potatocs in thc microwavc. I brushcd
thc potatocs with oil to prcvcnt sticking, scasoncd
thcm with salt, microwavcd thcm, and thrcw
thcm on thc grill. Although thcir tcxturc was
n rmcr and thcir skins salticr than whcn parboilcd,
thc intcriors rcmaincd unscasoncd. Iicrcing cach
1 b L HW1|Mb b1!\!Y1^\
\JJ\!b \Y Jl! \Y111
P'acepoLIoa'fcuIs'dedow owossu|ace ad
p'ece Iug ceIew'I ssewe. RepeaI, o' d' g
a' eadysseweedpoLIoesfooeIIe'evege
Y | l l 1 | | 1 l l : : l K F
potato prior to microwaving cncouragcd thc salt
on tl:c skin to migratc to thc insidc.
ow all I nccdcd was t n nd a bold way to
dclivcr thc garlic and roscmary llavors. I slowly
cookcd ninc clovcs o| garlic and rcaspoon ol
roscmary in cup ol oil, thcn brushcd thc pota
tocs with this mixturc prior to microwaving. But
I didn`t stop thcrc. I brushcd thcm with thc
inhscd oil again bclorc grilling, and I tosscd
thc potatocs with thc gar|ic-and-roscmary oil
yct again bclorc scrving. 1his rcpcatcd contact
rcsultcd in thc potcnt llavor I was scarching lor.
U H l L L L U O1P1O L 5
W 1M UPHL L PM U HO 5 L MPHY
bL HVLb
1his rccipc allows you to grill an cntrcc whilc tl:c
hot coals burn down in stcp I . ncc that itcm
is donc, start grilling thc potatocs. 1his rccipc
works bcst with smal| potatocs that arc about I |:
inchcs in diamctcr. Il using mcdium potatocs, 2
to 3 inchcs in diamctcr, cut potatocs into quar
tcrs. Il potatocs arc largcr than 3 inchcs in diam
ctcr, cut cach potato into cighths. Sincc potatocs
arc cookcd in microwavc, usc woodcn skcwcrs.
Vegetab| e o| | for cook| ng grate
4 tab| espoons o| |ve o| |
9 med| um gar| | c c| oves, m| nced or pressed through
gar| | c press (about J tab| espoons)
teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary | eaves
Kosher sa| t
2 pounds sma| l Red Bl | ss potatoes (about l8) ,
scrubbed, ha| ved, and skewered accord| ng to
| | l ustrat| on at | eft (see note above)
Cround b| ack pepper
D| sposab| e lJ by 9 | nch a| um| num roast| ng pan
2 tab| espoons chopped fresh ch|ves
I . Iight largc chimncy startcr n llcd with char
coal , o quarts, or about I OObriqucttcs) and allow
to burn until coals arc mlly ignitcd and covcrcd
with thin laycr ol ash, about 20 minutcs. Fmpty
coals into grill; build two-lcvcl hrc by arranging
two-thirds ol coals ovcr hal| o| grill and arrang
ing rcmaining coals in singlc laycr ovcr othcr hall
Iosition cooking gratc ovcr coals, covcr grill, and
hcat gratc until hot, about o minutcs; scrapc gratc
clcan with grill brush. Rcmovc lid and lct coals
burn until hrc on hottcr part o| grill is mcdium
1 L L 1 c P | | L 5 1 . l l /
'
,you can hold your hand o inchcs abovc gratc lor
o to o scconds), about I O minutcs. Dip wad ol
papcr towcls in vcgctablc oil; holding wad with
tongs, wipc cooking gratc.
2. Mcanwhl|c, hcat olivc oil, garlic, roscmary,
and |:tcaspoon salt in small skillct ovcr mcdium
hcat until sizzling, about 3 minutcs. Rcducc
hcat to mcdium-|ow and continuc to cook until
garlic is light blond, about 3 minutcs. Iour
mixturc through hnc-mcsh straincr into small
bowl; prcss on solids. Mcasurc tablcspoon
solids and I tablcspoon oil into largc bowl and
sct asidc. Discard rcmaining solids but rcscrvc
rcmaining oil.
3. Ilacc skcwcrcd potatocs in singlc laycr on
largc microwavc-sa|c platc and pokc cach potato
scvcral timcs with skcwcr. Brush with tablc
spoon straincd oil and scason libcrally with salt.
Microwavc on high powcr until potatocs ol|cr
slight rcsistancc whcn picrccd with tip o| paring
kni|c, about 8 minutcs, turning thcm halhvay
through cooking timc. 1rans|cr potatocs to bak
ing shcct coatcd witl: tablcspoon straincd oil.
Brush with rcmaining tablcspoon straincd oil;
scason with salt and pcppcr to tastc.
4. Ilacc potatocs on hottcr sidc ol grill. Cook,
turning oncc, until grill marks appcar, about 4
minutcs. Movc potatocs to coolcr sidc ol grill;
covcr with disposablc pan and continuc to cook
until paring knilc slips in and out ol potatocs
casily, o to 8 minutcs longcr. Rcmovc potatocs
lrom skcwcrs and translcr to bowl with rcscrvcd
garlic/oil mixturc; add chivcs and toss until thor
oughly coatcd. Scrvc immcdiatcly.
O1P1O L 5 W 1M UPHL L PM U HO 5 L MPHT
O M P UP5 U H L L
Iollow rccipc lor Grillcd Iotatocs with Garlic
and Roscmary, skipping stcp . 1urn all burn
crs to high, covcr, and hcat grill until vcry hot,
about o minutcs. Lsc grill brush to scrapc grill
clcan; oil cooking gratc. Irocccd with rccipc
lrom stcp 2, lcaving primary burncr on high and
rcducing othcr burncr,s) to mcdium. Grill pota
tocs, omitting disposablc pan, with lid down.
p LLL K 3 L VL O'_' a' TestK' Ice^v'deo
www. c o o ks | l l u s t r a t ed . c o m
L Ll L l M 0 b L LLMb
G' ' ' edPoIaIoesw'I Ga' ' cadRose~aq
KClllKll_ |llIC 'lCKCl lCJ>l>
\c v3|lc O|c'c33, 3<|'c33 |c33l3 l3l 3`c O l|c _|'' | J, 3| ' 3\O|u|
|c|c |3 lO c 3 3O| Jl O| cllc| l|3| Oll| c 33'3 |c33|_

cn to thcir own dcviccs, bonclcss, skin

lcss chickcn brcasts don`t stand a chancc
on thc backyard grill. Bccausc thcy havc
no skin and littlc lat, untrcatcd chickcn
brcasts invariably turn out dry and lcathcry, with
a mild-somc might say bland-Uavor. A quick
and casy solution that millions ol outdoor
cooks commonly rcsort to is soaking thc brcasts
in a storc-bought marinadc. icc idca, but in a
tastc tcst wc couldn`t hnd onc brand wc could
stomach, lct alonc rccommcnd. 1aking a lcw
minutcs to makc my own marinadc would yicld
bcttcr rcsults.
I kncw, though, that nothing clsc mattcrcd
il I couldn`t producc pcrlcctly grillcd chickcn
brcasts-moist, tcndcr, and ablc to stand on tlcir
own llavor-wisc. I didn`t want to havc to pound
tlc chickcn brcasts or losc thc tcndcrloin, which
rccipcs usually rccommcnd saving lor anotlcr
usc ,such as taking up pcrmancnt rcsidcncc in
tlc lrcczcr). I wantcd to kccp things as simplc
as possiblc.
Cookcd as most rccipcs suggcst-that is,
ovcr a hot, singlc-lcvcl hrc-thc outsidcs ol thc
brcasts did what I cxpcctcd. 1hcy turncd into
black shoc lcathcr by thc timc thc intcrnal tcm
pcraturc rcachcd I o0 dcgrccs. Whcn cookcd
solcly ovcr indircct hcat on thc coolcr sidc ol a
modihcd twolcvcl hrc ,all thc coals bankcd on
onc sidc ol thc grill), thc intcriors wcrc noticc-
ably moistcr, but thc tough cxtcriors lackcd color
and truc grillcd llavor. Although scaring tlc mcat
ovcr thc hottcr sidc ol thc grill bclorc moving it
to thc cool sidc to hnish cooking ollcrcd a sliglt
improvcmcnt, thc chickcn still wasn`t wHcrc I
wantcd it to bc.
LCQ| D_ LODVCD\| OD
Wcrc my convcntional mcthods holding mc
back? Scvcral tcst cooks suggcstcd using a hobo
pack. wrapping thc chickcn up into a tight
loil pouch to kccp it moist whilc cookcd ovcr
thc grill. But without pcriodically opcning thc
loil and risking a stcam burn, I had no way ol
knowing whcn thc chickcn was rcady. And whcn
it was, it still lackcd grillcd tcxturc and Havor. I
nccdcd a gcntlcr cooking mcthod. Sincc stovctop
poacling docs wondcrs lor chickcn, I wondcrcd
il I could makc it work on thc grill. I placcd a
disposablc aluminum pan hllcd halhay with
clickcn broth ovcr thc gratcs, lct it comc up to
. Y ' . | 1. \l
Uuctuation would allow thc brcasts to
cook morc cvcnly. I startcd by scaring
thc brcasts on thc hot sidc ol thc grill
bclorc moving thcm to thc coolcr sidc,
whcrc I covcrcd thcm with thc pan I
llippcd thcm halhay through). 1astcrs
noticcd improvcd Uavor and tcxturc that
wcrc closcr to what I wantcd, but still no
cigar. What il I tricd rcvcrsing thc cook-
ing ordcr, starting thc covcrcd brcasts on
thc coolcr sidc ol thc grill until thcy wcrc
ncarly donc , I 40 dcgrccs), thcn giving
thcm a quick scar ancrward? 1hc rcsult
was pcrlcctly cookcd bonclcss, skinlcss
chickcn brcasts.
|OC| || OW
Tesae' gred' eIsused' Iear' adeseeacI' oaga' ' a
s' p' ef' ' s' gsauceforourgr' ' ' edc' cseoreasIs.
I could now pursuc my original goal ol
injccting somc rcal Uavor into thc brcasts
by crcating a marinadc that could takc
tlc placc ol thc tcst kitchcn`s standard
practicc ol brining chickcn. Icmon and
garlic immcdiatcly camc to mind, so I
mixcd togcthcr a combination ol olivc
oil, lcmon juicc, garlic, salt, and pcppcr.
I addcd somc sugar to cut thc acidip
and hclp with browning. Iquickly lound
that too much lcmon juicc causcd thc
a simmcr, and addcd tHc chickcn brcasts. ncc
tlcy rcachcd I 40 dcgrccs, I nnishcd thcm on thc
hot gratcs. 1astcrs complaincd that thc tcxturc
was ncitlcr poachcd nor grillcd but wcird.
Had I gonc too lar? Mayhc not il I lookcd
at things lrom a dl|crcnt pcrspcctivc. Supposc
I invcrtcd tHc disposablc pan ovcr tHc chickcn
to trap thc hcat? Crcating lcss tcmpcraturc
cxtcrior ol thc chickcn brcasts to turn whitc. o
good-I wasn`t cooking scvichc. But cutting thc
lcmon juicc down to I tablcspoon madc thc intc-
rior bland and dry.
I kncw lrom past brining cxpcricnccs that
without cnough liquid, osmosis-thc uow ol
watcr across a barricr lrom a placc with a highcr
watcr conccntration ,thc brinc or marinadc) to
a placc vitl a lowcr onc ,thc
H L L L L P M L b b . PVC| d| D_ | mCHCC LD| CKCD chickcn)-is inhibitcd. 1hc
HObLLM. D RY, LEATH E RY, A N D
U N EVE N LY COOKE D
5OLU1l OM. Trapp' gIeeaIuder
ad' sposao' epaforosIofIe
gr' ' ' ' gI'eesuresevecoos' gad
reIa' so' sIure.
HObLL M. NO G R| LL | LAVO R
O R COLO R
5OLU1l OM. Coos' gIec' cse
oIecoo's' deofIegr' ' ' ' pasa
sos'erIasIe,adsear'g'IafIeward
creaIesdarsgr' ' ' arss.
C | | |

' l l l l ' l K ^ 1 l |
| \
liquid moving into thc chickcn
shouId havc carricd witl it somc
ol thc dissolvcd salt and Havor,
but thcsc molcculcs wcrc too
conccntratcd to pcnctratc tl:c
tissuc. Adding 2 tablcspoons
ol watcr dilutcd thc conccn-
tration ol salt and llavor mol-
cculcs in thc marinadc cnough
lor an cxchangc ol dissolvcd
molcculcs to llow in and out
ol thc chickcn. A 30-minutc
marinadc did thc trick.
K L1Y P1 P ULPWL \Y1111^\ 1\^!1!bb, b11^1!bb \l1\1!^ 1Y!b!b
. P' acec. cseocoo' s. deofgr. ' ' , w'I 2. Coverc. csew' Id' sposao' ea' u~' J. ' . pc' csesoI' eredsfcecoa'sad 9. ' ' s c' cseovercoa' s uI'' darsgr' ' '
~arssappear, ' Io2~' uIesoeacs' de. I' cseredsfac' gcoa' s. u~ roasI. gpa, coos6Io ~. uIes coI. uegr' ' ' . g, covered, 6Io~' uIes.
|3DCy || D| Sh
I tlouglt I was nnslcd, but tastcrs wcrcn`t rcady
to lct mc oh tlc look. I wantcd to kccp things
simplc, but tlcy wantcd a saucc. o problcm. I
could usc tlc ingrcdicnts nom tlc marinadc-plus
cloppcd parslcy lor color and Dijon mustard lor
cxtra Uavor and cmulsihcation-to spoon ovcr tlc
cookcd clickcn. 1lis ncw complcmcntary saucc
addcd morc moisturc as wcll as anotlcr laycr ol Ua
vor. 1lcsc grillcd clickcn brcasts wcrc casy cnougl
to makc lor myscll on a wcckniglt ,I could savc
tlc cxtras to top a salad uc ncxt day) and tncy
cnougl to scrvc to gucsts at my ncxt dinncr party.
U H L L L U L L M O M PH5 L L Y
L M L K L M b HLP515
bLHVLb
1lis clickcn can bc scrvcd witl a simply prc-
parcd vcgctablc lor a light dinncr. It can also bc
uscd in a sandwicl or tosscd witl grccns lor a
salad. 1lc clickcn slould bc marinatcd no lcss
tlan 30 minutcs and no morc tlan I lour.
| teaspoon Di j on mustard
2 tab| espoons j ui ce from | | emon
6 tab| espoons o| ive oi |
tabl espoon mi nced fresh pars|ey l eaves
| '/+ teaspoons sugar
Tab| e sa| t and ground b|ack pepper
J medi um gar| i c c| oves, mi nced or pressed through
garl i c press (about l Iab| espoon)
2 tab| espoons water
4 bone| ess, ski n| ess chi cken breasts ( 6 to 8 ounces
each) , tri mmed of excess fat
Vegetab| e oi | for cooki ng grate
Di sposabl e l J by 9 i nch a| umi num roasti ng pan
. Wlisk togctlcr mustard, I tablcspoon
lcmon juicc, 3 tablcspoons olivc oil, parslcy, l+
tcaspoon sugar, l+ tcaspoon salt, and l+ tcaspoon
pcppcr in small bowl; sct asidc.
2. Wlisk togctlcr rcmaining tablcspoon
lcmon juicc, rcmaining 3 tablcspoons olivc oil,
rcmaining tcaspoon sugar, I ': tcaspoons salt,
vz tcaspoon pcppcr, garlic, and watcr in mcdium
bowl. Ilacc marinadc and clickcn in gallon-sizc
zippcr-lock bag and toss to coat; prcss out as
much air as possiblc and scal bag. Rclrigcratc 30
minutcs, llipping bag ancr I 5 minutcs.
3. Mcanwlilc, liglt largc climncy startcr hllcd
witl clarcoal , o quarts, or about I 00 briqucttcs)
and allow to burn tmtil coals arc m|ly ignitcd and
partially covcrcd witl tlin laycr ol asl, about 20
minutcs. Bui|d modihcd two-lcvcl hrc by arrang-
ing all coals ovcr lall ol gril|, lcaving otlcr lall
cmpty. Iosition cooking gratc ovcr coals, covcr
gril|, and lcat gratc unti| lot, about 5 minutcs;
scrapc gratc clcan witl gri|l brusl. Dip wad ol
papcr towcls in oi|; lo|ding wad witl tongs, wipc
cooking gratc. Gri|| is rcady wlcn sidc witl coals
is mcdium-lot ,you can lo|d your land 5 inclcs
abovc gratc |or 3 to 4 scconds).
4. Rcmovc clickcn lrom bag, a||owing cxccss
marinadc to drip oll Ilacc clickcn on coolcr
sidc ol gril|, smootlsidc down, witl tlickcr sidc
lacing coals. Covcr witl disposab|c pan and cook
until bottom ol clickcn just bcgins to dcvclop
liglt grill marks and is no |ongcr transluccnt, o to
minutcs. Lsing tongs, llip clickcn and rotatc so
tlat tlinncr sidc laccs coals. Covcr with disposablc
pan and continuc to cook unti| clickcn is opaquc
and hrm to toucl and instant-rcad tlcrmomctcr
inscrtcd into tlickcst part ol clickcn rcgistcrs I 40
dcgrccs, o to minutcs longcr.
5. Movc clickcn to lottcr sidc ol gri|l and cook,
uncovcrcd, until dark grill marks appcar, I to 2
P > M . bC| Cd P3|| D30CS
D O N ' T VN TRY TH S
we trled savlog tlme by marloatlog our chlckeo breasts
lo tour bon|ed | emooaodherb marl oades. Ldeo wlth
sweeteoem, stabl | lzem, and gums, thelr ge|atloous
cooslsteocles and uooatura| avors were stroog|y dl s| l ked.
1 L L 1 c7 ` L | L 5 1 Z l l /
! l
minutcs. Lsing tongs, llip clickcn and cook unti|
dark gri|| marks appcar and instant-rcad tlcrmom-
ctcr inscrtcd into tlickcst part ol clickcn rcgis-
tcrs I o0 dcgrccs, to 2 minutcs |ongcr. 1ranslcr
clickcn to cutting board, lct rcst, tcntcd witl loil, 5
minutcs. Slicc cacl brcast on bias into l+-incl-tlick
sliccs and translcr to individual platcs. Drizzlc witl
rcscrvcd saucc and scrvc.
L L M O M PH5 L L Y L M L K L M b HLP515
O M P UP5 U H L L
Iollow rccipc lor Grllcd Icmon-Iarslcy Clickcn
Brcasts tlrougl stcp 2. 1urn all burncrs to ligl
and lcat wltl |id down until vcry lot, about I 5
minutcs. Scrapc gratc clcan witl gri|l brusl. Dip
wad ol papcr towcls in oil; lolding wad witl
tongs, wipc cooking gratc. Icavc primary burncr
on ligl and turn oh otlcr burncr,s). lrocccd
witl rccipc nom stcp 4, grilling wltl lid down and
omitting disposablc pan. Incrcasc browning tlmcs
in stcp 5 by I to 2 minutcs.
U H L L L U L M O1L L L M L
L M L K L M b H LP515
Iollow rccipc lor Grillcd Icmon-larslcy Clickcn
Brcasts, substiniting llmc juicc |or |cmon juicc
and using an cxtra tcaspoon juicc in rcscrvcd
saucc in stcp I . Substitutc I tcaspoon minccd
clipot|c clilc in adobo saucc lor mustard and
ci|antro lor parslcy.
U H L L L U O HPM U L 1PHHPU O M
L M L K L M b HLP515
Iollow rccipc lor Grillcd Icmon lars|cy Chickcn
Brcasts, substitoting orangc juicc lor lcmon juicc
and tarragon lor parslcy. Add '/tcaspoon orangc
zcst to rcscrvcd saucc in stcp I .
COOK' S LI V Or'_' a' TesI K' Ice v deos
www. C OOK5 | | | u 5\|3\6 0 . C Om
L Ll L l M 0 b L LLMb
Gr' ' ' edce~o Ps' eyC' cseBreasIs
Vl L L l
WaIdoes'I~ealos' ' ceoIe o' as`
rlI_lI_ |\rO> OiC
\C vClC l3\|_ lC3l3Jl3|l 3l,'C lCC< _,|O3 l|3l vC OJ' vl3| OJl |3|3 3|OJ|.
|C|C v33 | J3l O|C |lC33|_ |lO|'C`. l|C `C3l.

am lookcd on gyros. Wlat`s not to lovc
about tlcsc sandwlclcs ol scasoncd, mari-
natcd lamb, tomato, lcttucc, and cucumbcr-
yogurt tzatzikl saucc stullcd lnsidc a solt
pita? Durlng onc ol my latcst cravlngs, I lound
myscll at Iarm Grlll and Rotisscrlc, a Grcck rcs
taurant ln Ncwton, Mass.
Hoping lor somc ldcas on low to makc tlcm at
lomc, I convinccd clcl Yousry Aly to takc mc into
tlc kitchcn and slow mc tlc tradltional cooking
mctlod. Scvcral pounds ol marinatcd sllccd lcg
ol lamb arc laycrcd and stackcd onto an clcctrlc
vcrtlcal rotlsscric to lorm a tigltly packcd cyllndcr
ol mcat ,gyro mcans to turn in Grcck, lcncc
gyroscopc). Ahcr scvcral lours ol cooking, tl:c
mcat is slavcd witl: a long slicing knilc. 1lc picccs
tlat lall oll lavc crlsp cxtcrlors and molst intcrlors
tlat arc inmscd wltl: garllc and orcgano lrom tlc
marlnadc. As appcallng as lt was, l kncw tl:is rcs-
taurant mctlod wasn`t going to translatc to any
lomc kitclcn l kncw oL
b Y '. | H. \ l <
|C3Q |3\\C|S
1o tlc ground lamb I addcd tradi
tlonal Grcck lngrcdlcnts-orcgano,
hncly cloppcd onlon, and mlnccd
garlic-bclorc rolling tl:c mlxnrc into
balls and Uattcning tl:cm into small
disks. But oncc tlc scasoncd pan-
lricd pattics wcrc cookcd tlrougl,
tastcrs thouglt tlcir tcxturc was too
dcnsc and dry. 1aklng a cuc lrom our
rcclpc lor Wcll-Donc !amburgcrs
, )uly/ August 200o ), I incorporatcd
a modincd panadc ,a pastc ol lrcsl
brcad crumbs and milk) to makc tl:c
mcat juicicr. But now tastcrs lound
tlc pattlcs a littlc too musly. At tlc
supcrmarkct, all I`d bccn ablc to hnd
wcrc pockctcd pltas wirl tops tlat
nccdcd to bc cut oll bclorc tlcy
could bc hllcd. Wlat il l rcplaccd
tlc wlitc brcad crumbs wltl crumbs
nom thls dricr brcad? 1lis gavc tlc
pattlcs a sturdlcr structurc along witl
mllcr, morc savory Havor. And no
morc wastc.
Illpplng tlrougl cookbooks rcvcalcd tlat
otlcrs lad thc samc dllcmma. low to cook
tlc gyro`s dcnning lngrcdicnt, tlc mcat. nc
rcclpc callcd lor quickly sautclng tlln strlps
ol marlnatcd lamb. 1rlmming and slicing tlc
latty roast lnto tlln strlps rcquircd quitc a blt ol
cllort, and tlc cnd rcsult rcscmblcd a bad stlr-
lry. A slmilar broilcd vcrslon wasn`t mucl bcttcr.
Anotlcr rccipc produccd a lamb mcatloal sliccd
lnto tlln strlps. a novcl approacl, but onc tlat
took too long to prcparc and yicldcd an odd,
spongy tcxturc.
Ou p' Iasadw' ccoIa' s'ayesof' aopaII' es, IoaIo, ' eIIuce,
feIaceese, adacoo' . gyoguI cucuoesauce
In ordcr to aclicvc tlc mcat`s tra-
dltional duallty ol tcxturc-crlsp out-
sldc, molst insldc-I trlcd cooklng
tlc pattics ln a largc ollcd skillct ovcr
mcdlum ligl hcat . Evcn tlougl
tlcy didn`t look likc typlcal clippcd
gyro mcat, tlcy loolcd my tastc buds
I dccldcd to try onc last rcclpc. pan lrlcd
ground lamb pattics ,rcminisccnt ol Middlc
Fastcrn kcha) llavorcd wltl orcgano and onlon.
K L L | L 1 L > 1 M L . Ly|CS LC MCmC
Wlilc tl:csc pattlcs surc didn`t look llkc gyros,
tlc tcxturc was closc, and tlcy wcrc rcally casy to
makc. l`d lound my jumplng-oll polnt.
eeaeIeeofIecoo-' geIodsweI'ed-adeecIed-' ouquesIIoa-e
osaIoe
TOO | USSY
Saute|ng str|ps of mar|nated | amb took
effort, resu| t| ng | n what | ooked | | ke a
bad st| rfq.
| LAW D TXTUR
Pck|ng the meat |nto a |oaf shape
y|e| ded an odd, spong texture w|th
no cr|spy parts.
| N PRACT| CAL
A vert|ca| rot|sser|e produced f|aw|ess
meat-cr|sp on the outs|de and mo| st
| ns| de-but |sn' t pract|ca| at home.
C C C |

S | | | l S | k A 1 | |
| Z
lnto bcllcving wlat my cycs did not.
Wltl tlc lamb pattlcs pcrlcctcd, I dccidcd to try
my land at maklng a just-as-good bccl vcrslon.
At 2-pcrccnt lcan, ground slrloln was rulcd out
lor bcing too dry and livcry. Eiglty-pcrccnt lcan
ground cluck won lands down.
bCmC PSSCmD|y HCqu| |Cd
)ust bccausc I lad niccly warmcd pltas and wcll-
scasoncd mcat didn`t mcan I was donc. Wlat`s
a gyro sandwicl witlout thc tzatzlkl saucc? 1lc
cooling comblnatlon ol yogurt, garlic, cucumbcr,
dlll or mint, and lcmon julcc ls morc tl:an just a
condlmcnt, lt`s a ncccsslty. Slncc Grcck yogurt
can bc dlmcult to nnd, l stuck to plain mll-lat
yogurt, wlich is bcttcr tlan lo-lat at approxi-
matlng thc crcamy tcxturc ol tl:c rcal stull My
hrst attcmpt at tzatzlki was tlin and watcry, I`d
lavc to rcmovc somc ol tlc yogurt`s cxccss wlcy.
C | P HO K1HPWD \111^\ \\1!!1!bb 1! b^1\1\l
AIougpocseIedp'Iasareeas'erIof' d, wepreferIepocseI'essven' osforIe' rI' cs, p' ' ' oyIexIureaddeeperf'avor
' fyouca` If'd Ie' yoursuperarseI, 'oosforIe ' Yed'IermeagroceqsIores.Teyrequ' reas' 'gI'yd'ereI
asseo'yIec' que, assowere. We'ayer'g' gred' eIsoIep'Ia' sIep ', 'eavea ' ' coorderoa''s' des
. P' acep' IaoIopofa' u' ufo' ' , ' ayersadw' c ' gred' eIsop' Ia, adfo' does' deofp' Ia overf' ' ' ' g. 2. o' d
oppos'Ies' deofp' Iaover f. ' ' ' gso' Iover' apsf'rsIs' de. J. o' does' deoffo' ' oversadw' c. 9. o' dupooIIooffo' ' .
5. WrapoIers' deof fo' ' oversadw' cI ofu' 'yec' ose' I
Draincd lor just 30 minutcs ovcr a papcr towcl-
or collcc hltcr-lincd straincr ,a tcchniquc thc tcst
kitchcn uscs to makc yogurt chccsc), it attaincd a
tcxturc that was dcnscr, richcr, and much closcr
to thc Grcck varicty. Saltlng rhc cucumbcr hrst
also rcduccd cxccss moisturc.
With my componcnts rcady, all I had to do
now was put togcthcr thc sandwich. 1aking
onc warmcd pita at a timc, I sprcad a quartcr
ol thc saucc on onc sidc bclorc adding thrcc
lamb pattics and hlling thc rcst ol thc spacc
with tomatocs, shrcddcd lcttucc, and an uncon
vcntional but wclcomc addition ol lcta chccsc.
A singlc bitc conhrmcd that this was a grcat
wccknight altcrnativc to a cold cut sandwich or
last lood burgcr.
U HL L K 51YLL LPM b F 1P 5 PM UW L M L 5
W 1M 1ZP1Z K 5 PU L L
bL HVLb
Sincc thc yogurt and cucumbcrs in thc 1zatziki
Saucc nccd to drain lor 30 minutcs, start mak-
ing thc saucc bclorc thc pattics. 1o substitutc
bccl lor thc lamb, usc 80-pcrccnt lcan ground
chuck, dccrcasc thc amount ol lcmon juicc
to I tablcspoon and incrcasc thc orcgano to
2 tablcspoons, garlic to 3 clovcs, and oil to I
tablcspoon. 1hc tcst kitchcn prclcrs thc llavor
ol lrcsh orcgano, but I tcaspoon ol dricd can
bc substitutcd. 1hc skillct may appcar crowdcd
whcn you bcgin cooking thc pattics, but thcy
will shrink slightly as thcy cook. Il using pockct-
lcss pitas, hcat thcm in a singlc laycr on a baking
shcct in a 350-dcgrcc ovcn lor 5 minutcs. Do
not cut top quartcrs oll pockctlcss pitas; instcad,
usc a portion ol a hnh pita to crcatc crumbs in
stcp I. Whcn cooking thc pattics, usc a splattcr
scrccn to kccp thc mcss to a minimum. 1hc pat-
tics can bc prcparcd through stcp I and rclrigcr
atcd lor up to a day or lrozcn bclorc cooking
as dircctcd in stcp 2 ,lrozcn pattics should bc
thawcd in rclrigcrator prior to cooking). 1his
rccipc can bc doublcd.
4 l arge ( 8 i nch) pi ta breads (see note above)
'/ medi um oni on, chopped coarse (about /+ cup)
4 teaspoons j ui ce from l l emon
' / teaspoon tab| e sa| t
'/+ teaspoon ground b| ack pepper
tab| espoon mi nced fresh oregano | eaves
2 medi um gar| i c cl oves, mi nced or pressed through
garl i c press (about 2 teaspoons)
pound ground l amb (see note above
for i nformati on on usi ng beef)
2 teaspoons vegetab| e oi l
Tzatzi ki Sauce (reci pe fo| l ows)
| arge tomato, s| i ced thi n
2 cups shredded i ceberg | ettuce
2 ounces feta cheese, crumb| ed (about '/ cup)
. Adjust ovcn rack to middlc position and
hcat ovcn to 350 dcgrccs. Cut top quartcr oll
cach pita brcad. 1car quartcrs into I -inch picccs.
,You should havc / cup pita picccs. ) Stack pitas
and tightly wrap with aluminum loil. Iroccss
onion, lcmon juicc, salt, pcppcr, orcgano, gar-
lic, and pita brcad picccs in lood proccssor until
smootl: pastc lorms, about 30 scconds. 1ranslcr
onion mixturc to largc bowl; add lamb and gcn-
tly mix with hands until thoroughly combincd.
Dividc mixturc into I 2 cqual picccs and roll into
baNs. Gcntly llattcn balls into round disks, about
'/ inch tl:ick and 2v: inchcs in diamctcr.
2. Ilacc loil-wrappcd pitas dircctly on ovcn
rack and hcat lor I0 minutcs. Mcanwhilc, hcat
oil in I 2-inch nonstick skillct ovcr mcdium-high
hcat until just smoking. Add pattics and cook
until wcll browncd and crust lorms, 3 to 4 min-
utcs. Ilip pattics, rcducc hcat to mcdium, and
cook until wcll browncd and crust lorms on scc
ond sidc, about 5 minutcs longcr. ,Scc pagc 3 I
lor tips on llipping pattics.) 1ranslcr pattics to
papcr towcl-lincd platc.
3. Lsing soupspoon, sprcad cup 1zatziki
Saucc insidc cach pita. Dividc pattics cvcnly
among pitas; top cach sandwich with tomato
sliccs, v: cup shrcddcd lcttucc, and 2 tablc
spoons lcta. Scrvc immcdiatcly.
1 L L 1 c P L | L 5 1 2 0 0 /
I
1ZP1Z K 5 PU L L
PKLb PL L
Although wc prclcr rl:c richncss ol plain wholc-
milk yogurt, low-lat yogurt can bc substitutcd.
Grcck yogurt can also bc subsritutcd, but usc
': cup and skip thc stcp ol draining. Whilc wc
didn`t likc thc llavor ol dricd mint, dricd dill may
bc uscd in placc ol ncsh, but rcducc thc amount
to '/ tcaspoon.
cup p| ai n whol e mi | k yogurt
'/ medi um cucumber, pee| ed, seeded, and di ced fi ne
(about '/ cup)
teaspoon tabl e sa| t
tabl espoon j ui ce from l l emon
sma| | garl i c cl ove, mi nced or pressed through
gar| i c press (about '/ teaspoon)
tabl espoon fi ne|y chopped fresh mi nt or di | |
I . Iinc hnc-mcsh straincr sct ovcr dccp con-
taincr or bowl with 3 papcr collcc hltcrs or rriplc
laycr ol papcr towcls. Spoon yogurt into lincd
straincr, covcr, and rcnigcratc lor 30 minutcs.
2. Mcanwhilc, combinc cucumbcr, tcaspoon
salt, and lcmon juicc in colandcr sct ovcr bowl and
lct stand 30 minutcs.
3. Discard draincd liquid nom yogurt. Combinc
thickcncd yogurt, draincd cucumbcr, rcmaining
tcaspoon salt, garlic, and mint in clcan bowl.
P b M L . YDC| C P| | KTC_uO
We ca' ' for p' a' wo' e ' ' syogurI ' ourTzaL's'
Sauce. 'IasIreeI'esasucfaIas'owfaIyogurt
ad far ore f'avor. Of
IefouraI' oa' ods
of wo' e ' ' s yogurI
IaI we IasIed, we
foud or'zo Oga' c
Wo' e Y' ' sP' a' Yogurt
ad DaoA' ' NaIu'
~
C RAN O|
TH CRO P
For smoothness and
P' a' YogurI Ioo sour.
TasIers preferred Ie
wo' e ' ' syogusw' I
Ie osI faI-Brow
f|avor, 8rown Cow Cream
Cow Crea Top P' a'
Top P| ai n Yogurt trumped
YogurI ad SIoyf' e' d the | eaner, more acidic
ar Orga' c Wo' e
competiti on.
Y' ' sP' a' Yogu. BrowCow` ss ' gI'yr' cerf'avor
prof''eade'IIeove' ' w' er orIecop' eIe
resu'Is of I' s IasI' g, go Io w . cooss' ' ' usIIed.
co/augusI.c' 'zaoeIBoze
W LLL K 3 L VL Or'_' a' TesI K' Ice v'deos
www. c o o ks i l l u s t r a te d . c o m
L Ll L l M 0 b L LLMb
GreesSq' ecaoP'IaSadw' cesw' ITzaL' s'Sauce
Vl L L l b
WaI' sI eoesIwayIo' ceoregao`
Ca'ss' pIesa' I' gaddra' ' gsIeps`
ClICCllI_ J>lJ 'J|lC>C
|3 3J ``c| 3| O`|c3 ||c lO`3lOc3, |c3| OZZ3|c''3, 3| |3_|3|l 33' vl| |Ol
33l3 |c\c|l|_ l|c |cc3c |O` lu|||_ |lO |u||'c _u |c3c|lc 3 _OOc, ||O'c`

cgcnd has ir rhar rhc popular
Caprcsc rrio ol gardcn roma
rocs, lrcsh mozzarclla, and
basil lcavcs was inrroduccd in
rlc I50s ar 1rarroria Da Vinccnzo,
a bcachsidc rcstauranr on rhc Italian
island ol Capri. According ro crcator
Marglcrira Coscnrino, rhc rcd, whirc,
and grccn salad ol local producc and
clccsc allowcd ladics ro havc a nicc
luncl whilc srill nrring inro rhcir biki
nis. Swimsuir scason or nor, rhc com-
binarion bccamc so popular rhar cooks
cvcrywhcrc rook ro mixing ir wirh lot
pasta, minccd garlic, and cxrra-virgin
olivc oil lor a ! 5-minurc cnrrcc rlar
caprurcs rhc llavors ol summcr.
L \ K L L L | |. | .\ : E
bur rhis inaurhcnric subsrirurion chcarcd
thc dish ol irs srar ingrcdicnr, and rasrcrs
complaincd abour blandncss.
Ior my ncxr rcsr, I rook a big srcp in
thc opposirc dirccrion and rricd watcr
bullalo-milk mozzarclla moccnrrlln di
bu}nln) lrom a spccialry chccsc shop.
Much sohcr rhan rhc commcrcial lrcsl
chccsc, rhis handmadc mozzarclla mclrcd
inro rcndcr pillows whcn combincd wirl
thc pasra-rhcrc wcrc no rubbcry birs ro
bc lound. In addirion ro rhc lovcly con-
sisrcncy, rasrcrs praiscd irs llavor, whicl
was dripping wirh milkincss and rang.
1hc ncxr day, I prcparcd pasra Caprcsc
using handmadc cow`s-milk mozzarclla
and achicvcd rhc samc imprcssivc rcsulrs.
,Inrrigucd by rhc dillcrcnccs among rlc
chccscs, I invcsrigarcd rhc ropic mrrhcr,
scc Shopping. Ircsh Mozzarclla, on
pagc I5.)
|ODCy |O0| Cm
1rurh bc rold, I was skcprical rlar
a rccipc would rcally bc rcquircd lor
sucl a clcar-cur dish. Srill , I garhcrcd a
rcprcscnrarivc sampling and wcnr inro
rlc kirchcn. 1hc ourcomc? Insrcad ol
collccring rhc praisc I had cxpccrcd
lrom my collcagucs, I joincd rhcm lor a
lcw chucklcs. 1hc romarocs, pasra, and
basil wcrcn`r problcms, bur rhc chccsc
was. In cach rccipc, ir had clumpcd inro
an inrracrablc solrball-sizcd wad in rhc
borrom ol rhc pasra bowl. Ahcr wrcs-
rling a scrving our ol rhc dish, rhings
only gor worsc. 1hc ranglcs ol moz-
WefoudIaIourPasIaCaprese requ' red soe e' pfro Iefreezer.
So my problcm was solvcd, as long as
I had rimc ro go ro rhc chccsc srorc
and was willing ro pay rhc big bucks
lor handmadc chccsc, which can casily
rop $ pcr pound. Evcryonc in rhc rcsr
kirchcn agrccd rhis wasn`r an acccprablc
solurion. I nccdcd ro nnd a way ro usc
zarclla bubblc gum wcrc dimculr ro clcw, ncvcr
mind swallow. 1hc mozzarclla was a classic casc
ol Dr. )ckyll and Mr. Hydc. likablc and rcndcr ar
K L L L L P M L > > . |3S3 L3|CSC
HLLLM. bLLU LM.
onc momcnr, monsrrously rough rhc ncxr.
Whcn rhc wisccracks and |aughrcr subsidcd,
scvcral ol my collcagucs quicrly conlcsscd ro
having cxpcricnccd rhc
samc problcm ar homc.
NOZZAR LLA CH Wl N C C U N
' dusIr'a| 'yproducedozzare| | ac' ups
' Ioaruooery, sIr'gessweco
c' edw'IoIpasIa.
D l C , TH N | R Z
OD\3D_| | D_ \hC LhCCSC
Ior rhcsc hrsr rcsrs, I
lad purchascd lrcsh
mozzarclla-tl:c kind rl:ar
comcs immcrscd in plas-
ric rubs ol warcr and is
shapcd inro irrcgular-sizcd
balls-ar rhc supcrmar
kct. Whar il I uscd rcgu-
lar block-srylc mozzarclla
,rlc low-moisrurc vcrsion
oncn slrcddcd lor pizza)
insrcad? Ir mclrcd niccly
and didn`t turn chcwy,
reez' gIe ceesefor '0' uIes
ceforecoo' ' g' Iw' IIepasIa
preveIs' Ifro~Ium' g' IoIa[.
t | | | 5 | L L L 5 1 K P 1 L
I 4
hcsh mozzarclla hom rhc supcrmarkcr.
My nrsr rhoughr was ro thoroughly coar diccd
mozzarclla cubcs wirh olivc oil bclorc adding rhc
srcaming pasra. 1his was a srcp in rl:c righr dircc-
rion, wirh rlc oil prcvcnring sricking . . . inirially.
Ahcr a lcw minurcs, howcvcr, rhc nasry clumping
problcm rccmcrgcd.
I wondcrcd whar would happcn il I pur rlc
diccd supcrmarkcr chccsc in thc lrcczcr lor a
lcw minutcs bclorc combining it wirh rhc pasra.
Could chilling rhc chccsc kccp ir lrom mclting
mlly and clumping inro wads ol bubblc gum? I
gavc rhis approach a rrial run, dicing rhc mozza-
rclla and clilling ir in rhc lrcczcr lor I0 minurcs.
I rhcn procccdcd as usual, combining rhc nrmcd-
up chccsc wirh rhc pasra and romarocs. Succcss.
Whcn addcd ro hor pasra, rhc chccsc sohcncd but
did nor mlly mclr, making rhc unarrracrivc clasric
ropcs a rhing ol rhc pasr. Ir rurns our rhar rhc pro
rcins in lrcsh mozzarclla bcgin ro mclr ar abour
I 30 dcgrccs. As thc tcmpcraturc climbs past I 30
dcgrccs, rlc prorcins clump rogcrlcr. Ircczing
rlc clccsc kcpr ir lrom ovcrlcaring wlcn rosscd
wirl rlc lor pasra.
MCCCSS3Q bX\GS
Wirl rlc clccsc conundrum solvcd, I nnc-runcd
rlc rcsr ol rlc rccipc, srarring wirl rlc romarocs.
)uicy, gardcn-ripc bcaurics nccd no adornmcnr,
bur a sprinklc ol sugar can rcplacc rlc gcn
rlc swccrncss rlar is oncn missing in lcssrlan-
pcrlccr spccimcns. And wlilc Iralians would
ncvcr add an acidic componcnr ro a rruc Caprcsc
rccipc, a squirr ol ncsl lcmon juicc ,lavorcd ovcr
l rypcs ol vincgar) did a grcar job ol boosring
rlc Havor ol lacklusrcr romarocs. I also kncw
nom cxpcricncc rlar ridding rlc romarocs ol
rlcir sccds bclorc dicing rlcm would prccludc a
dilurcd, warcry saucc.
In rccipcs rlar usc raw olivc oil, rhc lruiry
and spicy nuanccs ol cxrravirgin oil makc a dil
lcrcncc, and rlis disl is no cxccprion. I addcd
a lcalrly drizzlc ol rlc rcsr kirclcn`s lavorirc
cxrra-virgin olivc oil, rlcn srirrcd in a minccd
slallor, a sprinklc ol salr, and a lcw rwisrs ol black
pcppcr. Allowing rlc romarocs and mozzarclla
ro marinarc wlilc rlc pasra cookcd inmscd rlcm
wirl lruiry and subrlc garlic llavors. Icngrly
marinaring rimcs arcn`r rccommcndcd, lowcvcr,
as morc rlan 45 minurcs yicldcd mcaly, brokcn
down romarocs.
Plor rlc pasra, rasrcrs prclcrrcd pcnnc, msilli,
and campancllc ovcr spaglcrri, wlicl is com
monly uscd. 1lc slorr rubular or curly slapcs
rrap rlc clunky saucc in rlcir nooks and crannics.
Ircslly cloppcd basil was rlc nnisling roucl ro
pasra rlar rasrcd jusr likc summcr.
FP51P LPF H L 5 L
bL HVLb L
1lis disl will bc vcry warm, nor lor. Jlc
succcss ol rlis rccipc dcpcnds on lighquality
ingrcdicnrs, including ripc, in-scason romarocs
and a lruiry olivc oil ,rlc rcsr krclcn prclcrs
Columcla Exrra-Virgin). Don`r skip rlc srcp ol
lrcczing rlc mozzarclla, as lrcczing prcvcnrs ir
lrom rurning clcwy wlcn ir comcs in conracr
wirl rlc lor pasra. Il landmadc bullalo- or
cow`s-milk mozzarclla is availablc ,ir`s com-
monly lound in gourmcr and clccsc slops
packcd in warcr), wc liglly rccommcnd using
ir, bur skip rlc srcp ol lrcczing. Addirional
lcmon juicc or up ro rcaspoon sugar can bc
addcd ar rlc cnd ro rasrc, dcpcnding on tl:c
ripcncss ol rlc romarocs.
'/- cup extravi rgi n ol ive oi l
24 teaspoons j ui ce from l l emon (see note above)
smal l garl i c cl ove, mi nced or pressed through
gar| i c press (about '/ teaspoon)
smal l shal l ot, mi nced fi ne (about 2tabl espoons)
Tab| e sal t and ground bl ack pepper
> m L M L . |CSD PCZ3|C| | 3
' fcucd IaI aI saca qua q ~czzae ' a ~e Ied ceauI fu' ,
c ~, ec pe, cuI ~csI cf Ie fes ~czzae' ' a ' ccugI aI
supe~aseIs ~e' Ied cIc cucc egu~ se ca' ' s. W, Iec g
d ffeecce
Tc f cdcuI, ' cIe ewedA' ScepscfA' Ducc ' s, aVe~ccI
ceese ~asew I decades cf expe ecce. Sceps exp a ced
IeaIcf~as cg~czzae a. B ccsscfcud pucasedwc' e
sa' ec~adefc~ scaIc) ae cuI cIc sI ps, Iec ~~esed
c cI cug, ' 80 degee)waIe, weeIe,~e Iacda~a
ga~aIe.Teceese~aseIec eaces cIc IecIwaIeIc
gecI' , scead acd sIeIc Ie ~czzae' ' a ' se Iaf[, a pccess
sccwc as(isti ( 'iti Wec Ieceese ss~ccI acd s c,,
e cuIs cIeas Ie ceese cIc cdv dua pcI ccs Ie' Ia ac
vec ozzie ~eacs Ic cuIcff ) , caefu' ',sapesIe~ cIc
ca s, acdp acesIe~ c a sa qc ce. es, ~ade~czzae' ' a
ceese, p' u~p acd cu' g cgw Iwe,, s exIe~e, pe sac' e
acdscu dceeaIecw I cafewda,s.
WHAT' S l N TH TU8 !
] ust because | t' s packed | n water doesn' t
mean th| s cheese | s tru| y "fresh. "
Nass-produced bmnds w|th she| f | |ves
measured |n weeks (not days) w| | | tum
rubbery |f they get too hot.
Cc~~ec a' fes ~czzae' ' a s ~acufacIued c ~ucIesa~ewa,, w I cce ~pcacId ffeecce. Tc
fac IaIe pcducI cc, Ie cccs cg, sIeIc cg, scead cg, acd fc~ cgae dcce c, ~ac ce, ccI c, acd.
BecausecfI scugacd' cg, Ieceesee easesacacucdaccecfcuIIelaIacdwe,.W I essfaIacd ess
~c sIue, Ie pcducIssIud eacd as ase f fecf0 Ic ' 20da,s. BuIv gccusacd cga scsIecgIecs
IepcIe cceIwcs cceese, w c causes IIcIucIcugacdcp,wec~e Ied.
ScwaIscu d,cucu,' caIasIeIesI, Iepcce a c w IeaI saca`va eI esweefavced . TasIespa sed
Ie ucdesIaIed , ~ _f avcacd schIexIue. es ceeses~adec,~ac ceweeIcugeacd ccIasf a
vclu , cuIsI ' qu Iegccd. N,adv ce. Bu,a acd~adeceese f,cucac . ' f,cuecdu pcu, cgfes~czzae a
aIIesupe~aseI, ~,ec pew ' IuccuIgeaI-as ccgas,cue~e~ceIcfeezeIeceese. R. H.
l '/ pounds ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut
i nto '/ i nch di ce
l 2 ounces fresh mozzarel | a cheese, cut i nto ' / i nch
cubes (see note above)
pound short tubul aror cur|y pasta, such as penn e,
fusi l l i , or campanel | e
'/- cup chopped fresh basi | l eaves
teaspoon sugar (see note above)
I . Wlisk oil, 2 rcaspoons lcmon juicc, garlic,
slallor, ': rcaspoon salr, and v+ rcaspoon pcppcr
rogcrlcr in largc bowl. Add romarocs and gcnrly
ross ro combinc; scr asidc. Do nor marinarc roma-
rocs lor longcr tHan 45 minurcs.
2. Wlilc romarocs arc marinaring, placc moz-
zarclla on plarc and ncczc unril sliglrly nrm, abour
I O minurcs. Bring 4 quarrs warcr ro rolling boil in
srockpor. Add rablcspoon salr and pasra, srir ro
scpararc, and cook unril m dcnrc. Drain wcll.
3 . Add pasra and mozzarclla ro romaro mixrurc
and gcnrly ross ro combinc. Icr srand 5 minurcs.
Srir in basil; adjusr scasonings wirl salr, pcppcr,
and addirional lcmon juicc or sugar, il dcsircd,
and scrvc immcdiarcly.
W COOK' S LI V O_ ca TesIK IcecV decs
www. c ooks | l l u s tr ate d . c o m
L Ll L l M 0 b L LLMb
sIaCapese
Vl L L l b
WaIappecs f` dcc' Ifeeze~,~czzae a
WaIscu d' ccsfc cacc' acde
) L L 1 c P L | L 5 1 2 0 0 /
I '
P > M L . M|_D bDd S3
Dc~esI c cacds cfd ed pasIa, suc as Rcczcc acd
Nue' ' e' s, ave epeaIed', wcc Icp cccs wI cu
IesIes, cuIccw IaI~ce spec a qcacdsacd ` Ia ac
~pcIsave IsIcese'ves, wedec dedIcgvefacc,
pasIa-I s I ~e c Ie fc~ cf pecce-accIeIasIe.
We I ed e gI cacds,
w Isc~eccsI cgas~uc
as IS pepcucd. Tcug
cccewee dee~ed ucac
cepIac e, Iee wee s g
c f cacId ffeeccesa~ccg
IecacdsweIasIed.
Nac, ' Ia ac cacds
c a ~ Ic ~a cIa c Ia
d I cca Iecc q ues acd
cged ecIs, suc as s' cw
scead cg, ~ x cg cc d
~cucIa c sp cg waIe
w I ad duu~ se~c
ca, exIud cg Ie dcug
IcugIad I cca' cccze
casI d es fc a ccase
.l nwt.7,(i
7[x
P N N Wl S
lts box may be p| a| n, but
| nexpens|ve Nue| | er's
Penne R|gate mted tops
w|th our tasters.
IexIue, acd pc ccged a d, cg. Suppcsed,, Iese
pacI ces~asefcsIccgefavcacd ~ceusI c, sauce
g pp cgpasIa.YeIIee expecsve | ~pcIs B ccaIue,
NccIece' c, acd RusI ce a d `Acuzzc) acded aI Ie
ccIIc~ cf cu acs cgs. Rcczcc scced c Ie a| dd` e
cf Ie pacs. TasIes sed Iee cIe ' Ia' ac checgs
BecedeIIc Cava e , De Ceccc, aod Yae| | | ) ,
cccswecIIcYue' ' e` s. ccc~p eIeIasIcgesu Is,gc
Icw . cccss ' usIIed. cc~/augusI. c' zaceI Bc~ze
Ov lO lCCZC `HHCl lOGCC
\C |OZC |C3|', ||C 3uC| |ul3 d| \C_Cld| C3 d3l 3uC|, l|C| l|dvC l|C`
l|C 'C O v|lC| lO | Oul v|| Cl|O3 O |CCZ|_ vO|| |C3l. O' c ` . c ` ` c
OuIesI cgcegac asIsu~~ewecwefczeavaeqcffes ,p csedfu Isacdvegetac esIcseew cccesccu dcefczec
acdw c~eIcdfcpese cgIe fescesswasIe~csIeffecIve. c cwcusuggesI ccsacd,cuscu dceac eIcfeeze
pcducefcaccuIsx~ccIs- ccgeccugIcsaIs[~ dw cIecav cgsfcsu~~efu IsacdvegeIac es.
A| R| LOW. Tc e pcc a
- -
ac cuaIe, seepfccdawa,
fc~feezevecIs. c~ce
eh c ecc,acdIc~a cL c
cc deIe~ps, vacuu~fIe
acdccscf,cuefgeIc/
feezepe cd ca ' ,ucp ug
,cufdgecefcedc cgsc) .

S H L| S PAC . Te~ce
qu cs,fu IsacdvegeIac es
aefczec , Ie essIe,suffe
wec defcsIed. C ea cg
se fspacew ~ax ~|ze
a |cwfcaqu csefeeze.
` cceasesefspacew IpcI
acew ecac ceIse v cg.
We eaced I` scesIIcfeezefu I
wIsugaupcsugaIceduce
Iefc~aI cccfda~ag cgcec,sIa s
seeSc eccecfeez cg, accve) .We
fcucdIec gIcc ccfsIawcees
acdspceeswascesIpeseedc
s,up. SugaddaceIIejcccfpcIecI
cgIef avccfc ueceesacdsIcce
fu I. Wefcucdccgccdwa,cfpese
cgfesce es.
|RU | T PRP
|KLLZLKbP5 | L5
T N P RATU R . Asuve,cfIesIs IcecsIah` s
c~efeezesscwedIe~psacgedfc~ Sdegees
Ic '0degees0degeescce cw scpI ~a ) . Nase
sue,cu feeze saIIe cc desIpcss c eseII| cg
uc' se,cuf dge,weeIecc desIseII cg scc
~a ,Icccc d) .
feezecc~ceIac8cupscffu I
aIaI ~e. Wasacdd,fuIscefce
feez cg.
SYRU P PACK. c eveq 2 cups cf
fu I, ccvewIIe sIeda~cucIcf
s,up. Tc ~ase6cupscfs,up, eaIJ
cupscfsugaacd+cupscfwaIec a
~ed u~saucepaccve~ed u~ g
eaI, sI cgcccas cca ,, ucI suga
asd ssc ved, accuIS ~ cuIes. Ccc Ic
cc~Ie~peaIue.
TH COLD ST S POT. Teea
cecIe sIecc desIspcI c~csI
feezes, scp acepcduceIee.
bC| CDCC C |CCZ| D_
WecfmIsacdvegeLc esfeze,
IewIeIaI scccL cedceacce
Iums cIccecqsIa s. TeszecfIese
cecqsIa sdepecdscccwp d,
Iepcducesfczec. Qu csfezcg
,edss~a ecqsta s, scwfeezcg
caIesaecqsLs.Iesece
cLsfc~,Ie,upIuece was
acd cIemacecace es, wc
eeaseec~esfm~Ie ccsed
cc~paI~ecL. WecIawed,Iese
ec~escausepcduceIcdevecp
cffavcacdIumccwcacdsc@.
` cvegeLc es, Ieseec~escac
cedeacIvaIedc,c acc cg. Because
fu LaeIccde caIeIcc acc. suga
csugp susedIceduceIe
fcmaIcccf cecqsLsdu cgfeez
cg. `c gccccecII ccs, sugaacIs
asacareceweecfuIacdc_ec
Wea scfcucd Icecess,Icadd
asccccac dIcpeacesacdcecLces
wecfeezcg,wcdeacIvaIesIe
~c ecu esIaIcauseccwc cg.
u IsaecesIfczec c cdv dua cags
cccIa c cgcc~ceIac 2cupscffu I.
TecaIce cwgvesIea~cucIcf
upcsugaIaIscu dceaddedIc
eveq2cupscffu I. Tcavc dcwe cg
feeze' sIe~peIuec,cveccwd cg,
S U CAR PACK. Tcss 2 cu ps cf fu I
w IIe sIeda~cucIcfsugacefce
cag cgacdfeez cg. cpeacesacd
cecIa ces, add 'z Ieaspcccscfu I
es cs ~ aasccc cac dcased
pcducI)IcIesuga.
l. l LL I ace edacddaIed Z.P bHU ` fus cgsugaup,
|RU | T
AN O U NT PR PARATl ON
>ItaW0Ett1ES 2Cu5 0u| | Cd0d0|vCd
KaSQ0Ett1ES 2Cu5 | CkCdCvC|
bUEDEft0S 2Cu5 | CkCdCvC|
EaLhES Of
2Cu5 | !!Cd 0dCu!| 0!C
NELIat ES 'O | 0C0!0| Ck5| |CC5
F R Zl N C
N THO D
oy|u
oy|u
ou_|
ou_|
ANO U NT OF
S U CAR O R SYRU P
' '+Cu5
' '+Cu5
':ccp
' Cu
quaIs zedz ppe ccsfeezecag pcus,upcvefu IIcccve.
cIc2 cup qu d~easu cgcup. Spccc
2cupspepaedfu I cIccag.
J. bLLRe~cveas~uca aspcss c e
fc~cagcefcesea cg. P acecag cIc
secccdz ppe ccscag.
9. HLLLL,cagsf aI cs cg ea,ecc
cas cgseeI. eezeucI sc d, aIeasI
2+cu, IecsIceacyweecfeeze.
L \ \
'
5 | L L 5 J K P J L
I
L
Z
>
C
O

Z
1
C
Z
C
<

Wecfeez cgvegeIac' es, c' acc cgc ef,p ucg cgIe

vegeIac es cIccc ' cgwaIe)acdsccs cg~cv cgIe~ cIc
cc dwaIeIcsIcpIecccs cgpocess) sc I ca see Sc ecce
cfeez cg, ccpage ' ) . Wcsqu cs,acdseepvegeIac es
P3SC| bCS C| |CCZ| D_ VC_C3D| CS
as cc das pcss c eafIeIe,aveceecc accedacdsccsed.
eez cgwa~vegeIac esIases ccgeacd ceaIes age, da~ag
cg cecqsIa s.
VC TA8L PR P
B acca vegeIac es cquaIscf waIeseasccedw I 'Iac e
spccccfIac esa I. W ' eweadsuccessfeez cgccc ,geec
ceacs, sccwpeas, scappeas, se' peas, acdgeecs, wefcucd
Ic~aIces,cucu~ces, zucc c , acdeggp acId dc` Ifeezewe' ,
dueIcIe gwaIeccctecIacdde' caIece sIucIue. ` f
,cuaveacacucdaccecf IesevegeIac es, wesuggesIcccs
cgIe~fsI, sucascasauce, Iecfeez cgIe~. CcIc
w . ccc< usIIed. cc~/augusIfcIe fc'cwcg feecpes.
QucsHc~eaadePcses,Qu cssTc~aIcSauce,acdRLIcu e.
8LANCHl NC
l . LMLM Cccspepaed
vegeIac' esucI cc cas
c gIecedcuIvegeIac' esae
sI ' ve,c spseeI ~es c
caIaI'efI) .
2. bMLLKTacsfeIcccw
f edwI cewaIeaad ccc
fc ` ~ cuIe. ` fceeded,add
~ce ceIcwaIeIcseep
cc d.
J. HTLLLTaasfeIc
~~edcas cgseeIccveed
wI J a,escfpapeIcwe s.
Ccvew IaccIe2a,es
acdgecI,d,.
v|6 |TA3L| AHOUNT PRPARATl ON Tl H
PSg3f3_US | pcuad tcugeadssaapped 2a cutes
cllaadd scaded
L0O [Wh0 6] eas usssaads ' ss J easatat ae
eacved lc a autes
L0fh [ K6fh6S] eas seae seacved a autes
lcaccc
f66h b63hS | pcuad eadsI aaedaadcut 2a cutes
atc o acp eces
5h0w 63S | pcuad stagseacved | a aute `
5h3g03S | pcccd stagseacved 2a autes
5h6 63S 2pcuads se ed 2a autes
16h06ff66hS 0cups' gty
[5g h3Ch,
pacsedaccut
Lh3f0]
2'agecuaces)
0U_hf660S 0cups'gt'y
[K36] pacsedaccut
stea~edaadwased | a cute
stea~edaadwased 2a cutes
9. HLLZL P acec s cg e
a,ecccas cgseeI ced
w Ipac~ecIpapeacd
feezeucI sc' d, ' Ic2
cus.
5. PLKPL Occefczec ,
Icsfe2cups cIc ace ed,
daIedz ppe ccsfeeze
cag,squeez cgcuIas~uc
a aspcss c e.
. LHL P acecag cIc
accIez ppe ccsfeeze
cagaadsIce c cc desIpaI
cffeeze.
2 aecuaces)
. K00gP f LUI. WecexpcsedIcafeeze` sa decv cc~ecI, fccd
cecc~esdqacdd scc ced, acccd I ccca' edfeezecuc . We' seIcfeeze
cadcuc e'a,ecfz ppe ccsfeezecags,f cd cgI' spevecIsfeezecuc
acd seepsfccdfc~p cs cgupcdcsacdfavcs.
2. US0 bm ICD0S. eez cga cIcffu IsacdvegeIac' esaIcccew
cve'cadycufeezeaadcause IsIeapeaIu eIc se. eez cgcc~ceIaa
2pcucds 0cups)cfpcduceaIaI ~ew ' ' seepIefeezeasco' daspcss c e
acd, e d~ucceIIeesu IscveIe ccgau .
J . f00Z0 QU CKg. See Sc eccecf eez cg, ccpage ' .
9.W0 f00Z0fSPf0 0II0fD0L00. We`vefcucdpcducesepIc a
egu a,usedfeezeasase`f feIwcIcIee~ccIsscIeIacpcduce
sIced cac cfequecI,usedfeeze. Nc~a' , eve,da,usecausesf ucIuaI cg
IeapeaIues. ' f,cuchecf|eezepcduce, weecc~~ecdasecccdfeeze.
D3w| D_ VC_C3D| CS 3Dd |u|
V C TA8L S
Weccccs| cgw IfczecvegeIac es, we acsI,fcucd IceIIeIc useIevege
Iac esw IcuIIaw cg. T swasIe case wI ~c sI eaIcccs cg~eIcds, suc
assIea~ cgacdcc cg, cwecIevegeIac esweeaddedIcscups, sIews,acd
sauces. Hcweve,wed df cdcccs cgI ~esfcfczecvegeIac esweea fas' ccg
asfcIe fesccucIepaIs.W Idq eaIcccs cgaeIcdssucassauIe ag,
wefcucd IcesI fIevegeIac' esweepaI a ,Iawed ,aga c, Ie,weedcce
caccuIa fIeI ~e. Tc paI a ,IawvegeIac es, a cwIe~Ics cw,Iaw a
IeefgeaIcfcaccuI cus . ' c ap ac, tawIecagcflczeavegeIac es a
cc' dwaIefc ' S Ic20~ auIes.
| RU | T
AfIecc~pa cgqu csIawsucdecc dwaIeacds cwIaws c IeefgeaIc
cvec gI, wefcucds cwIawspeseved~cecfIefu I sc g ca favcaao
IexIue. OcceIefu I sIawed, Iacsfe IIcacc' acdeacdgecI , cse IIc
e~cveexcesss,upacdsuga. BecauseIefu I` ses ' ecc,w avedeceased,
wepefeIc usefczecfu I a app caI ccsweeIefu Iw cecccsed.
) L L Y c P L L L 5 J 2 0 0 /
I /
Ov lO 'rlI |Orll>l |JrC Cl>
|C3C |3 ||O\C |3| 3|| 3| C'3lC `C3l 3 3|C 3| C C_3l 3 lC||3l\C lO |C|
'
OiHiSH _JmC HCHS OOK _OOU
OnIHCQJICJHUSiHCCOHCHCH
mJKCS J SiH_C SCiViH_ CVCiy
OHC _CIS ICHUCi QOtIiOHS O!
UOIH WHiIC JHU UJiK mCJI. OSI HOmC
COOKSiOJSIIHCSC CC_JHI UiiUS UuI_ii
in_HJSIHC QOICHIiJ IO JUUSmOKyJVOi
JnU UCiVCi iCJy CiiSQ SKiH. SIJiICU my
ICSIin_ Uy Iiyin_ lO JGJQI IHC ICSI KiICH
CnS mCIHOU !Oi _iiiH_ WHOC CHiCKCHS
[SCC HC CSI Lii OJSICU IHiCKCH
)uy/ Du_uSI 2000). DHCi IHCCHiCKCH i S
IiCJICUIOJSHOiIUiiHCJHUSQiCCiuU iIS
QJCCU iH IHC miUUC O!J HOI _ii WiIH
COJS JHU SOJKCU WOOU CHuHKS UJHKCU
IOCiIHCi SiUC. P HOuiJICi IHC CHiCKCH
CmCi_CS UCJuIiH y UtOHZCU. IHOu_HI
COuU CJSiy IiJHSJIC IHiS mCIHOU IO
_JmC HCnS. OIQuiIC.
L \ l ^V l l l ^ Z ^ l N C E
y HiSImOUiH CJIiOHWJS IO QuI J UiiQ
QJHunUCiIHC HCHS IO CJICH IHCiCnUCiCU
JI WHiC JSO CiCJIiH_ UCHHCU UJnKS !Oi
IHC CHJiCOJ . LCIIiH_ CiiSQ SKiH WiIHOuI
OVCiCOOKiH_ IHC UCiCJIC UiCJSImCJIWJS
IiiCKiCi. HC COSCSI Hy iHiIiJ ICSIiH_
CJmCWJSSQOIIyQJICHCSO!UiOWHCUJHU
hJUUySKiH. HiSWJS JHuiUCUHJVCIO
Asp ceucacdg' azegveIeses~c_c dste ~acgac,cc c.
CCJiUC!OiC COuU UC_iH WOiiyiH_ JUOuIJ SQiCC
iuU JnU H HiSHin_ _JZC.
bKCWC|| D P|OuD0
YHCiCJS _ii iOJSIiH_Ji_C UiiUS!OiJHHOuiQiO
UuCCS mJHO_Jny SKin JHU J ] uiCy inICiiOi KCCQ
in_ _JmC HCHS On IHC _ii Oi JH HOui mJUC !Oi
UOHCUiymCJI. JnyiCCiQCS CJCU!OiiCmOVin_
IHC UJCKUOHC [J QtOCCSS CJCU UuIICiHyiH_) . HiS
WOuUQuIJ O!IHC SKiHOHOHC SiUCWHiCHCOuU
!JCC IHC COJS JnU CiiSQ mOiCQuiCKy. uIICiHyin_
3mC C LD3DCC
Cccs cgwc' ega~eecs d ecI,ccIeg ' ' cacpcduce
ss cIaI scuced csc~epatsacdf acc, cctes. Te
cIe cfaesccceIIe,w|I ucevec ,cccsed~eaI.
rKObLLM.
BU RNT S K l N
rKObLLM.
|LAB BY S Kl N
rKObLL M.
UNV N LY
COOK D N AT
JSO mJKCS CJCH UiiU J uHi!Oim IHiCKHCSS WHiCH
QtOmOICS CVCH COOKin_. uSCUSCiSSOiSIOiCmOVC
IHC UCiCJIC UJCKUOHC JnU IO CuI IHC UOHC UiViU
iH_IHC UiCJSI HJVCS.
/IHOu_H IHCSC SQJyCUOQCn UiiUS UiOWHCU
CVCHy JHU COOKCU uni!Oimy QiCSCHIJIiOH WJS J
WHOC OIHCt mJIICi. uiHin_ UJCKUOHCCSS UiiUS
iCSuICU iH IHC C_S H iQQin_ OVCi IHC UiCJSI JHU
IHC SCJHI QiCCC O!SKin HOUiH_ IHC UiCJSI IO IHC
IHi_HS ICJii H_. bCCuiiH_ LHC C_S IO IHC UOUy
SCCHCU iKC my UCSIOQIiOn. uSCU mCIJ SKCWCiS
IO QOKC JHU SIiCK J UOZCH HCHS iHIO VJtiOuS COH
IOtIiOHiSI QOSiIiOHS UC!OiC JHUCU OH J mCIHOU
IHJI WOiKCU [ SCC uIICihyin_ JHU bKCWCiiH_
IHC LJHC CHS OH QJ_C V) . HiS KCUJUiKC
QiCSCHIJIiOH JSO mJUC iICJSiCiIO HI IHC UiiUS OH
IHC _ii _iJICS.
H HJVOi ICXIuiC JHO JQQCJiJnCC IJSICiS
J_iCCU IHCSCIOiHiSH _JmC HCnSWCtC H HJy in J
CJSS UyIHCHSCVCS. uI SIi IHOu_HI IHCy COuU
UCHCH I !iOm J JSI UJSI OinICnSC HCJI IO mJKC
IHC SKiH CiiSQiCi. O JVOiU CHJiiCU UiiUS !OuHU
iIUCSIlOSCJiIHCmJSInOIH iSIJSiSIiJUiIiOHJy
IHC CJSC WiIH mCJIS. Lii iOJSIin_ IHC UitUS WiIH
IHC iU UOWn IO JH iHICiHJ ICmQCiJIuiC O! I o0
IO I o5 UC_iCCS UC!OiC HniSHiH_ IHCH OVCi IHC
t | | K 5 | L L L 5 1 K P 1 L
I d
HOWCOOCi COJS _JVC mC ]uSI IDC ii_HI JmOuHI
O!UtOWHiH_ JHU CiiSQy SKi H. 1 HJU CH IO UO
WJS UuiU uQOn IHC _iiCU SHOKy JVOtViJ J iuU
JHUJ _JZC. /HCiIiyiH_iuUSWiID uQ IO 20 iH_iC
UiCHIS SCIICUOH J SCVCHiH_iCUiCHIVCiSiOHIHJI
_JVC IHC HCnS J SWCCI JHU SJVOiy COmQCXiIy. HC
tuU HCQCU CiiSQ IHC SKiH CVCH HiIHCt _iViH_ iI J
_Oi_COuS HJHO_JHy HuC. iHiSHiH_IHC UiiUS WiIH
J QuiCK _JZC O!KCICHuQ UiOWH Su_Ji JHU SOy
SJuCC QiOViUCG IHC CiOWHiH_ IOuCH.
Hl L L HOP51L U L OH M l 5 M PM L M L M 5
bLVLb
! yOui HCHS WCi_H I IO 2 QOuHUS COOK
3 inSICJU O!+ UiiHC IHCm !Oi JH CXIiJ I5 miH
uICS JnU CXICnU IHC COOKiH_ IimC iH SICQ 5 Uy
!0 IO I5 miHuICS. HJW !iOZCH _JmC HCHS iH
IHC iCii_CiJIOi !Oi Z+ IO 3o HOuiS UC!OiC UiiH
iH_. O JUU SmOKC JVOi IO IHC HCnS uSC IHC
OQIiOnJ WOOU CHuHKS. Ot IHC COmQCIC iCSuIS
HOm Oui IJSIiH_ O! IOiHiSH _JmC HCHS JHU
Oui !iCC iCCiQC !Oi DSiJH JiUCCuC LJZC _O IO
. COOKSiuSIiJICU. COmy Ju_uSI.
1rn
l cup tab| e sal t
4 Corni sh game hens ( l '/+ to l '/ pounds each) ,
butten| i ed accordi ng to | l | ustrati ons
l through 4 on page l 9
2 tab| espoons brown sugar
2 teaspoons gar| i c powder
tab| espoon papri ka
2 teaspoons chi l | powder
| teaspoon ground b| ack pepper
teaspoon ground cori ander
'/s teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 ( J i nch) wood chunks (opti ona| )
Di sposabl e l 6 by l 2 i nch al umi num roasting pan
Vegetabl e oi l for cooki ng grate
1ur0rtur ucr
'/ cup ketchup
2 tab| espoons brown sugar
| tab| espoon soy sauce
tab| espoon di sti | l ed whi te vi negar
tab| espoon prepared ye| l ow mustard
medi um garl i c cl ove, mi nced or pressed
through garl i c press (about l teaspoon)
. FRTMMNS iSSOVCSJIu+QuJiISCOU
WJICi u Ji_C COHIJiHCi. buUmCi_C HCHS u UDDC
COVCivu QJSHCWiJQJnUiChi_CiJIC HOut.
L
Z
>
C
O

Z
1
C
ST P- Y- S T P11!!!Y111^\ ^1 b1!\!Y1^\ !l! \`! l!^b
. HLMLVL PLKLML 2. LU HLPbLML J . LLM l H 9. ULKl Mb
Usepcu' IqseasIccuIIcugccces W'Iss cs' dedcwc , ~ase + ' cccuI dgI',pesscc csw' If cgesIc W Iss cfac cgup, fc dw' cgI' psce cd
c dIcsecueIe~. B' cec' ds. cce Ies decfcacsccce. ' cIccccesepaaI' cgceasIa ves. faIIecga~eec.
5 . MbLH bKLLH . bKLLHMl M 7. bKLLPLHLbb b. bHLLM bKl M
' cseIfaI~eIa' ssewe / ccfc~ecd Tum 'egscIaIecdcfdu~sI csfaces
cfdu~sI csIcugss|c acd ~eaIacd
cuIcIes de.
w cg, Iec cseII' pcfssewe cIc~ea
secI cccfI'g ucdeccce.
Pessssewea ' Ihew,I~ugcasIacd PessssewescIaIc ucIe~desIs
secccdI'g. 'decdcfdu~sIcsIcwam aga' csIc dacdsIeIcss' cI'gIcve
Z. YHiC HCHS UiiHC COmUiHC Su_Ji JHU SQiCCS
iHSmJUOW. !uSiH_WOOUCHuHKSSOJKIHCmiH
WJICi!Oi HOuiUiJiH. CmOVC UiiUS !iOmUiiHC
JHUiiHSCiHSiUCJHUOuIWiIH COUiuHHiH_WJICi
QJI UiyWiIHQJQCiIOWCS . OOWiH_iuSIiJIiOHS
D IHiOu_H 8, uSC 8 IO iHCH JI mCIJ SKCWCi
IO SCCuiC CJCH HCH. uUS HCHS CVCHy WiIH SQiCC
miXIuiC JHU iC!ii_CiJIC WHiC QiCQJiiH_ _ii .
. T M GLA IOOK J iH_iCUiCHIS iH
SmJ SJuCCQJH OVCi mCUium HCJI, SIiiiiH_ OCCJ
SiOHJy uHIi IHiCK JHU Si_HIy iCUuCCU JUOuI
D miHuICS.
+. T GRLL MNS i_HI Ji_C CHimHCy
SIJiICi HCU WiIH CHJiCOJ [C QuJiIS Oi JUOuI
J UiiQuCIICS) JHU JOWIO UuiHuHIi COJS JiC
Hy i_HiICU JHU QJiIiJy COVCiCU WiIH IHiH JyCi
O! JSH Z IO ZD miHuICS. JCC diSQOSJUC QJH
iH CCHICi O! _ii . mQIy COJS iHIO _ii CiCJI
iH_ CQuJ SiZCU QiCS OH CJCH SiUC O!QJH. JCC
Z SOJKCU WOOU CHuHKS OH CJCH QiC O!COJS i!
uSiH_. OSiIiOH COOKiH_ _iJIC OVCi COJS COVCi
_ii JHU HCJI _iJIC uHIi HOI JUOuI D miHuICS
SCiJQC _iJIC CCJH WiIH _ii UiuSH. i_HIy UiQ
WJU O! QJQCi IOWCS iH Oi HOUiH_ WJU WiIH
IOH_SWiQC COOKiH_ _iJIC.
D . JCC HCHSSKiHSiUC UOWH OHCCHICiO!_ii
OVCi JumiHum QJH. \QCH _ii iU VCHIS COm
QCICy JHU COVCi QOSiIiOHiH_ VCHIS OVCi HCHS .
LiiiOJSI HCHS uHIi iHSIJHIiCJU IHCimOmCICi
iHSCiICUiH IHiCKCSIQJiI O!IHi_HiC_iSICiS C IO
CD UC_iCCS JHU SKiH HJS SIJiICU IO IuiH _OUCH
UiOWH, 2OIO 3OmiHuICS.
C. \SiH_ IOH_S mOVC UiiUS IOHOI SiUCS O!_ii
[ZHCHSQCiSiUC) . IOVCiJHUCOHIiHuCIOCOOKuHIi
UiOWHCUJUOuID miHuICS. iuSH UliUSWiIHHJ!O!
_JZC HQ JHU COOK !Oi Z miHuICS. iuSH iCmJiH
wcgacd' csetssewe'i 'ccfc~ecd. egs,I' gs, acdceasIha ves.
iH__JZCOVCiHCHSHQJHUCOHIiHuC IO COOKHHIi
iHSIJHIiCJU ICimOmCICi iHSCiICU iH IHiCKCSI QJiI
O!IC I1_H iC_iSICtS IO D UC_iCCS IO
miHuICS OH_Ci.
. iJHS!Ci HCHS IO CuIIiH_ UOJiU JHU CI iCSI
miHuICS. IuI iH HJ!IHiOu_H UiCJSIUOHC JHU
SCiVC immCUiJICy.
Hl L L HOP51 L U L OH M l 5 M PM L M L M 5
O M P P5 Hl L L
I . OOW iCCiQC !Oi Lii OJSICU IOiHiSH
LJmC CHS IHiOu_HSICQ SOJKiH_ CuQWOOU
CHiQS !Oi miHuICS i!SmOKC JVOi iS UCSiiCU.
iJiH CHiQS JHU QJCC iH SmJ UiSQOSJUC Ju
miHum QJH SCI QJH OH OHC UuiHCi JHU iCQJCC
COOKiH_ _iJIC. uiH J UuiHCiS IO Hi_H COVCi
JHU HCJI uHIi VCiy HOI JHU CHiQS JiC SmOKiH_
JUOuI D miHuICS [i!CHiQS i_HiIC uSCWJICi HCU
SQiJy UOIIC IO CXIiH_uiSH) . bCiJQC _iJIC CCJH
WiIH _ii UiuSH. i_HIy UiQ WJU O!QJQCi IOWCS
iH Oi HOUiH_ WJU WiIH IOH_S WiQC COOKiH_
_iJIC. uiH J UuiHCiS IO mCUium.
Z. JCC HCHS SKiH SiUC UOWH OH _ii _iJIC.
IOVCi JHU _ii uHIi SKiH iS UCCQy UiOWHCU JHU
SHOWS _ii mJiKS IO D miHuICS. [ !_ii HJS
HOISQOISyOu mi_HIHJVCIO mOVC HCHSOH _ii . )
\SiH_IOH_SiQ UiiUSCOVCiJHUCOHIiHuCI O_ii
W COOK' S L| V O_' ca' TesI K' Icec V' decs
www. c o o ks | l l u s tr ate d . c o m
L Ll L l M 0 b L LLMb
C' ' RcasIedCcm sCa~eHecs
Vl L L l b
WaI' sIeeas' esIwa,IccuIIe|',aga~eec
Hcwdc`sseweaga~eec
) L L 1 c P L | L 5 1 2 0 0 /
l '
uHIi IHiCKCSI QJiI O!IHi_H iC_iSICiS C IO CD
UC_iCCS IO D miHuICS mOiC.
. iuSH UiiUS WiIH HJ!O!_JZC. \SiH_ IOH_S
iQ UiiUS JHU COOK uHIi UCCQy UiOWHCU Z IO
miHuICS. iuSH iCmJiHiH_ _JZC OVCi HCHS HiQ
JHU COHIiHuC IO COOK uHIi UCCQy UiOWHCU JHU
IHiCKCSIQJiI O!IHi_HiC_iSICiS IO D UC_iCCS
Z IO miHuICS mOtC.
+. iJHS!Ci HCHS IO CuIHH_ UOJiU JHU CIiCSI
miHuICS. IuIi HHJ!IHtOu_H UiCJSIUOHC JHU SCiVC.
L [ L | L M L b | M L .
KC| SSC|| C P3CDmCDS
A cI'ssee pe~' Is supe' c a' c' cc aI cc acd
caIua' se f casI cg, w c ~asespcu Iqss c s'g
c' f cacI,c sp' e,w' Isavcq,j u' c,~eaI.Hcweve,
scca edcc'vesa'cI sse' esdes' goedIcf'I~csI
' ae g s fI ccce cf Ie Ieew' de' ,ava ac' e
g ' s IaIwe use ' c ouIesI s Icec. We faed
~ucceIIewecwe pa edcI'sse esw'I g s
fc~Iesa~e~aoufacIue. c|cc~p' eIe esuIs
cf cu cI'sse e atIach~ecIIesI cg, gc Ic w.
cccss' usIaIed. cc~/augusI. c' 'zaoeIBc~ze
PAVO Rl T ROTl S S R|
The 88Q Ca| ore 3 l ' De| uxe Sta| n| ess Stee| Rot|sser|e
( S l 49. 99) |s Ihe perfect (a| be| t pr|cey) compan| on
to our favor|Ie charcoa| gr| | | .
CLLCl `llli| `JIJG
.C' 3|'C 3||`| 33|33 3|C J3u3|', |J||C_ 3| |'3|d \C l|C 3||`|, l|c| l|c C33|_.
^
aybc it`s a good tling tlat most
slrimp salads arc drowning in a
sca ol gloppy mayonnaisc. 1lc
drcssing miglt bc bland, but at
lcast it lclps camouUagc tlc sorry statc ol tlc
rubbcry, Havorlcss boilcd slrimp. I wantcd to hnd
a cooking tcchniquc that would dclivcr pcrlcctly
cookcd shrimp witlout tlc cxtra work ol grilling,
roasting, or sautcing. Was it too mucl to ask that
tlc slrimp lavc somc llavor ol its own?
1o bcgin, I roundcd up somc crcamystylc
slrimp salad rccipcs. Most call lor boiling a llavor-
ml liquid ol whitc winc, lcmon juicc, lcrbs, spiccs,
and watcr ,callcd a court-bouillon by tlc Ircncl).
Acr tlc slrimp arc submcrgcd into tlis lot liq-
uid, tlc pot is rcmovcd nom tlc lcat and covcrcd
lor about Uminutcs. Many ol tlc rccipcs call lor
quickly shocking tl:c shrimp in an icc batl to prc-
vcnt ovcrcooking. Altlougl tl:cy lookcd pcrlcct,
slrimp

prcparcd tl:is way wcrc in lact llavorlcss
and tougl. Rcducing thc timc tlc slrimp spcnt in
tlc liquid did makc tlcm morc tcndcr, but it did
notling to improvc tlcir Havor.
But I lad a trick up my slccvc. a tcclniquc
practiccd in tlc I70s by tlc Ircncl clcl Miclcl
Gucrard. Hc poaclcd protcins by starting tlcm
in cold liquid. 1lc cold protcins and brotl
would lcat simultancously, unlikc thc traditional
poacling tcclniquc in wlicl tlc slrimp protcins
immcdiatcly turn opaquc ,and rubbcry) upon
submcrsion in lot watcr. In tlis way tlc slrimp
would bcttcr absorb llavors lrom thc poacling
liquid-a kind ol turboclargcd llavor injcction.
In tlc tcst kitclcn I took thc court-bouillon
ingrcdicnts-lcaving out thc wlitc winc, whicl
tastcrs lound ovcrwlclming-and addcd tlc
slrimp. I tlcn lcatcd tlc liquid to various tcm-
pcraturcs. 1oo low and tlc slrimp wcrc mushy;
too ligl and tlcy turncd tough. Fvcntually, I dis
covcrcd tlat lcating thc liquid to a ncar simmcr
, I 65dcgrccs) was idcal. 1lc slrimp wcrc actually
avorml and thcir tcxturc was so hrm and crisp
tlat scvcral tastcrs comparcd tlcm to lobstcr.
All I nccdcd now was tlc pcrlcct dcli-srylc
drcssing. Wlilc mayonnaisc providcs crcamy
colcsivcncss, I didn`t want it to mask tlc slrimp`s
Havor or drown out tlc otlcr ingrcdicnts. Acr
tcsting scvcral amounts, tastcrs lclt a pcrlcct coat-
ing was /4 cup pcr I pound ol slrimp. Diccd
cclcry, minccd slallots, choppcd lcrbs, and lrcsl
lcmon juicc addcd uni[ing aromatic and lcrbal
notcs and a plcasant vcgctal crunch and acidity.
Witl lcss mayo, I lound I could also add varicty
L \ l ^ V l l l ^ Z ^ l N C E
to tlc salads witl boldcr llavors likc chipotlc
clilc, orangc, and roastcd rcd pcppcr.
5 M Hl M F 5PLPU
bL HVLb
1his rccipc can also bc prcparcd witl largc
slrimp , 26/3O) , tlc cooking timc will bc I to
2 minutcs lcss. 1lc slrimp can bc cookcd up to
24lours in advancc, but lold oll on drcssing thc
salad until rcady to scrvc. 1lc rccipc can bc cas-
ily doublcd; cook tl:c slrimp in a -quart Dutch
ovcn and incrcasc thc cooking timc to I 2 to I 4
minutcs. Scrvc tl:c salad on a bcd ol grccns or on
a buttcrcd and grillcd bun.
pound ( 2 l 25 ) extral arge shr| mp, peel ed,
deve| ned, and ta| l s removed
'/+ cup pl us | tabl espoon j u| ce from 2 to J l emons,
spent ha|ves reserved
5 spr|gs pl us l teaspoon m| nced fresh parsl ey l eaves
J spr|gs p| us | teaspoon m| nced fresh tarragon
| eaves
teaspoon who| e bl ack peppercorns pl us ground
bl ack pepper
tabl espoon sugar
Tabl e sa| t
'/+ cup mayonna| se
smal | sha| l oI, m| nced (about 2 tabl espoons)
smal | cel ery sta| k, m| nced (about ' cup)
I . Combinc slrimp, /4 cup lcmon juicc,
rcscrvcd lcmon lalvcs, parslcy sprigs, tarragon
sprigs, wlolc pcppcrcorns, sugar, and I tcaspoon
salt witl 2 cups cold watcr in mcdium saucc-
pan. Ilacc sauccpan ovcr mcdium hcat and cook
slrimp, stirring scvcral timcs, until pink, hrm to
toucl, and ccntcrs arc no longcr transluccnt, 8 to
I O minutcs ,watcr slould bc just bubbling around
cdgc ol pan and rcgistcr I 65dcgrccs on instant
rcad tlcrmomctcr). Rcmovc pan nom lcat, covcr,
and lct shrimp sit in broth lor Z minutcs.
Z. Mcanwlilc, hll mcdium bowl vitl icc watcr.
Drain slrimp into colandcr, discard lcmon lalvcs,
lcrbs, and spiccs. Immcdiatcly translcr slrimp to
icc watcr to stop cooking and clill tlorouglly,
about 3 minutcs. Rcmovc slrimp lrom icc watcr
and pat dry with papcr towcls.
3 . Wlisk togctlcr mayonnaisc, slallot, cclcry,
rcmaining tablcspoon lcmon juicc, minccd pars-
lcy, and minccd tarragon in mcdium bowl. Cut
slrimp in lall lcngtlwisc and tlcn cach lall into
tlirds; add slrimp to mayonnaisc mixturc and
L l l |
'
5 | L L \ 5 1 K P 1 L
? O
toss to combinc. Adjust scasoning with salt and
pcppcr and scrvc.
5 M H M F 5 PLPU Wl 1M HOP51 L U H L U
F L F F L H PM U bP5 l L
Iollov rccipc lor Shrimp Salad, omitting tarragon
sprigs nom cooking liquid. Rcplacc cclcry, minccd
parslcy, and minccd tarragon with vs cup tlinly
sliccd jarrcd roastcd rcd pcppcrs, Z tcaspoons
rinscd capcrs, and 3 tablcspoons choppcd ncsh
basil lcavcs.
5 M H M F 5 PLPU Wl 1M PVO LPU O P M U
O HPM L
Iollow rccipc lor Smp Salad, omitung tarragon
sprigs nom cooking liquid. Rcplacc cclcry, minccd
parslcy, and minccd tarragon vtl 4 halvcd and
tly sliccd radishcs; largc orgc, pcclcd and
cut into vz-inch picccs; vz ripc avocado, cut into
vz-inch picccs; and 2 tcaspoons minccd ncsh
mint lcavcs.
5 F l LY 5 M Hl M F 5PLPU Wl 1M L OH M PMU
L M FO1L L
!ollov rccipc lor Shrinp Salad, subsutuung juicc
nom 3 to 4 limcs ,savc spcnt halvcs) lor lcmon
juicc and omitting tarragon sprigs nom cook-
ing liquid. Rplacc cclcry, minccd parslcy, and
minccd tarragon vrl / cup cookcd corn kcrncls,
2 minccd chipotlc chilcs in adobo saucc ,about
2 tablcspoons), and I tablcspoon minccd ncsh
cilanrro lcavcs.
5 M Hl M F 5PLPU Wl 1M WP5Pb l PM U
F l L K L L U l M L H
Iollov rccipc lor Slrimp Salad, omitring tarra
gon sprigs lrom cooking liquid. Rcplacc slallot,
minccd parslcy, and minccd tarragon with 2 tca
spoons wasabi powdcr; 2scallions, whitc and grccn
parts sliccd H; 2 tablcspo

ns choppcd picklcd
gingcr; and I tablcspoon toastcd scsamc sccds.
W COOK' S L VL O_ ca' TesI K Icec V decs
www. C OOK5 | | | u s Irated . C O m
L Ll L l M 0 b L LLMb
S ~pSa' ad
Yl L L l b
WaIs cdcf sh ~pscu' d' cuy
WaI` sIeeas esIwayIc pee' acddeve cs ~p
`UllCr rUlL `JJG>
OJ' 3| O' 3|IC||_ l|< C I|C 3 `'C 3|3vC| IO 3 CIIC| |JI 33'3
^
ost |ruit salads bctray ncitlcr
rlymc nor rcason rcgarding thc
|ruit sclcction or asscmbly, and
tlc customary lcavy sprinkling
o| sugar sccms dcsigncd to mask dc|ccts in tlc
|ruit. ln cooking sclool, l lcarncd to makc simplc
syrup, wlicl is notling morc tlan watcr and
sugar boilcd togcthcr. Ln|ortunatcly, most sim-
plc syrups arc too swcct, and turning on tlc stovc
to makc salad sccms likc a botlcr. Witl summcr
|ruit at its pcak, l marchcd into tlc tcst kitclcn
dctcrmincd to rcdchnc tlc rulcs.
lnstcad o| thc randomly hackcd up chunks o|
|ruit tlat onc usually nnds in salad, l cut tlc |ruit
into small, uni|orm picccs to allow tlc di||crcnt
llavors and tcxturcs to comc tlrougl witl cacl
moutlml. So tlat cacl |ruit could maintain its
distinctivcncss, l limitcd myscl|to tlrcc pcr salad.
Altlougl l wantcd most o| tlc swcctncss to
comc |rom tlc |ruit, l |ound it important to mac-
cratc it witl a small amount o| sugar to rclcasc tlc
juicc. 1o balancc tlc swccmcss, l addcd a squcczc
o| |rcsl limc juicc.
Having crcatcd thc propcr |oundation, l
wantcd to add morc complcxity o| llavor and
improvc tlc tcxturc. 1hougl l got tlc llavors
l wantcd witl |rcsl lcrbs ,basil and mint) and
citrus zcst ,limc and orangc), tcxturc was a
problcm. Wlcn l addcd small amounts o| spiccs
sucl as pcppcr, cardamom, and caycnnc, it was
dimcult to guarantcc cvcn distribution. l | not
combincd tlorouglly, a pincl o| caycnnc could
backnrc.
l rcmcmbcrcd tlc bartcnding tcclniquc o|
muddling, in wlicl a small woodcn dowcl with
a Hattcncd cnd is uscd to mash sugar with lcrbs
or citrus to cxtract biggcr, |rcslcr llavors in
alcololic drinks ,tlink Mojito). Lsing a llcxiblc
rubbcr spatula, l applicd this tcclniquc to my
salads.
Masling tlc sugar with rlc llavorings incrcascd
tlc intcnsity o| tlc lcrbs and zcst, mcaning l could
usc lcss. And incorporating tlc spiccs witl thc
sugar mixnrc allowcd |or cvcn distriburion. ncc l
tosscd tlc sugar mixnrc with rhc huit and allowcd
b3| 3DC| D_ bwCCDCSS
Because ' pefu'Is equ' e ~ce ac' d Ic ca' acce
Ie sweeIcess, Ie' ' ~ej u ce' ccuSu~~eu I
Sa adsscu' dceaddedIcIasIe.SIaw I ' Iac' e
spccc, Iecadd ' IeaspcccaIaI' ~eascecessaq.
. Y 1H ' ` ^|^| M H1H E
it to maccratc |or 3O minutcs, a liglt, llavornJ |ruit
syrup dcvclopcd. l now lad a |ruit salad whosc
llavors and colors clcganrly cvokcd summcr.
LPM1PLO U F L , F L U M 5 , P M U L M L H H L 5
W 1M M M1 P M U VPM LLP
b L HVLb L
Blucbcrrics can bc substinitcd |or clcrrics.
4 teaspoons sugar
l 2 tab| espoons m| nced fresh m| nt | eaves
'/+ teaspoon van| | l a extract
'/ med| um canta| oupe, rind and seeds removed, cut
| nto '/ | nch p| eces (about J cups)
2 red or b|

ack p| ums (about 5 ounces each) , p| tted

and cut | nto '/ | nch p| eces (about 2 cups)
8 ounces cherr| es, pi tted and halved (about 2 cups)
| 2 tab| espoons j u| ce from l l | me (see box)
Combinc sugar and mint in largc bowl. Lsing
rubbcr spatula, prcss mixturc into sidc o| bowl
until sugar bccomcs damp, about 3O scconds;
add vanilla. Gcntly toss |ruit witl sugar mixturc
until combincd. Ict stand at room tcmpcraturc,
stirring occasionally, until |ruit rclcascs its juiccs,
I 5 to 3O minutcs. Stir in limc juicc to tastc and
scrvc.
M O M LYU LW, MPM U O , P M U KP5 F b L H H L 5
WI 1M L M L P M U U M U L H
b L HVLb
4 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons grated zest p| us l to 2 tab| espoons
j u| ce from 2 to J | i mes (see box)
P| nch cayenne (opt| ona| )
' / medi um honeydew, ri nd and seeds removed, cut
| nto '/ | nch p| eces (about J cups)
mango (about l 0 ounces) , pee| ed, pi tted, and cut
| nto ' /| nch p| eces (about l '/ cups)
l 2 teaspoons grated fresh g| nger
ha| f pi nt conta| ner raspberr| es (about l cup) ,
p| cked over
Combinc sugar, zcst, and caycnnc ,i| using) in
largc bowl. Lsing rubbcr spanJa, prcss mixnrc
into sidc o|bowl tmtil sugar bccomcs damp, about
3Oscconds. Gcntly toss mclon, mango, and gingcr
witl sugar mixnrc until combincd. Ict stand at
room tcmpcraturc, srirring occasionally, until huit
rclcascs its juiccs, I 5 to 3O minutcs. Gcnt|y stir in
raspbcrrics. Stir in limc juicc to tastc and scrvc.
1 L l Y c ^ L | | : 1 2 0 0 /
Z |
M L L1PH M L 5 , U HPF L 5 , PM U b L U L b L K K I L 5
W 1 H O HPM U L PM U LPHUPM OM
b L HVL b L
4 teaspoons sugar
teaspoon grated zest from | orange
'/s teaspoon ground cardamom
J medi um nectar| nes (about 6 ounces each) , p| tted
and cut | nto '/ | nch p| eces (about J cups)
9 ounces | arge green grapes, ha| ved po|e to po|e
(about 2 cups)
p| nt b| ueberr| es, p| cked over
| 2 tab| espoons j u| ce from l | | me (see box)
Combinc sugar, zcst, and cardamom in largc
bowl. Lsing rubbcr spanla, prcss mixnrc into
sidc o| bowl unril sugar bccomcs damp, about 3O
scconds. Gcntly toss nuit witl: sugar mixturc unril
combincd. Ict stand at room tcmpcranrc, stirring
occasionally, until huit rclcascs its juiccs, I 5 to
3O minutcs. Stir in limc juicc to tastc and scrvc.
FL PL H L 5 , b LPL K b L H H L 5 , PMU
51HPWb L H H L 5 W 1 H bP5 L P M U L F F L K
b L HVLb L
4 teaspoons sugar
2 tab| espoons m| nced fresh bas| | l eaves
'/ teaspoon ground bl ack pepper
J med| um peaches (about 6 ounces each) , p| tted
and cut | nto '/ | nch pi eces (about J cups)
2 ha| f p| nt conta| ners b| ackberr| es (about 2 cups) ,
p| cked over
pi nt strawberr| es, washed, hu| l ed, and quartered
| engthw|se (about 2 cups)
| 2 tab| espoons j ui ce from | | i me (see box)
Combinc sugar, basil, and pcppcr in largc bowl.
Lsing rubbcr spatula, prcss mixturc into sidc
o| bowl until sugar bccomcs damp, about 3O
scconds. Gcntly toss nuit witl sugar mixturc until
combincd. Ict stand at room tcmpcrarurc, stirring
occasionally, until huit rclcascs its juiccs, I 5 to oU
minutcs. Stir i n limc juicc to tastc and scrvc.
p COOK' S L VL O_ ca' TesI K Icec v decs
www. C OOK5 | | | u 5\ | 3\ 60. C Om
Vl L L l b
Bas cscfess ' ' s
cwscu' d'Iasecaecf~,sc ves
WaI sIecesIwa,Ic pee' acdccpa~e' cc
WaI` sIeeas esIwa,IccuIa~acgc
WaI sIce gcIwa,IczesIc Ius
JC C>l lCDCll\ `COIC>
\C 3'|C3, ||Cv v|3l 3 |'JC|C, 3O|C OJ' C|,, |J |',, O| C|3C. \C 3|C O\C|
c..3O|C3 lO 3|C\C v|3l vC ||Cv 3 |'JC|C|, 3O|C 3|Ou' |C||, '_|l, 3| '3_.

CJ iiIiSH SCOnCS JiC iKC iiliSH
HumOiSICCQCU i n IiJUiIiOn Uiy JS
J UOnC JnU OHCn IJSlCCSS. D UiSlJnl
iCJIiVCO!IHCCiumQClJnUlHCn_iSH
muHH lHC HiSI SCOnCSWCtC COOKCUWiIHOuIlHC
JiUO!Jn OVCn, IHCyWCiCQiCQJiCUOn J CJSliiOn
_iiUUC iKC lHiCK QJnCJKCS. YiIHlHC JUUiliOnO!
UJKin_SOUJin`iCIOiiJnlimCSSCOnCSinn_JnU
IOOKOn IHC iOC O!CuSIOmiZJUC ICJIimC JCCOm
QJnimCnIS. HCUiyUJnUUiSCuilSWCiCiCnUCiCU
QJJIJUC UyIHC JUUiIiOnO!QCnIyO!UuIlCi COI
ICUCiCJm Oi]Jm.
DmCiiCJnSOWCVCi JiCuSCUlO HJVin_ UiCJK
!JSIQuiCKyJnUOnIHC mOVC.YCiKC OuiQJSliiCS
iCJUyIO _O inSin_C SCiVin_SWilH IHC SWCCInCSS
iiCHnCSS JnU !iuiI UuiI in. YCVC UCCn _iJUuJy
iCmOUCin_ SCOnCS lO HI IHiS imJ_C. HCSC UJyS
CO!!CC SHOQ SJmQin_S iun IHC _JmuI !iOm miS
SHJQCn muHniKC OU]CCIS IO Ui_JSyOui HCJU
CJKCS. I SCCmCU iKC iI WJS IimC IO iCUCHnC IHC
DmCiiCJn SCOnC.
Y ) l L l ^ | 1
JKinCSS WJS JHCi my ICCHniQuC WJS
_Oin_ IO nCCU Jn OVCiHJu.
IOOK J HinI HOm Qu!!QJSIty WHCiC
IHC QOWCi O! SICJm iS uSCU IO SCQJiJIC
SuQCilHin JyCiS O!UOu_H inIO SItiJlCU
HJKCS. n J SIJnUJtU Qu!! QJSIiy iCCiQC
J QiCCC O!UOu_HWi UC IuinCU iOCU
JnU !OUCU JUOuI HVC limCS. YiIH CJCH
!OU IHC numUCi O!JyCiS O!UullCi JnU
UOu_H inCiCJSCS CXQOnCnliJ y. \QOn
UJKin_SICJm!OiCCS lHC JyCiS JQJiI JnU
IHCn CSCJQCS CJuSin_ lHC UOu_H lO Qu!!
uQ JnU CiiSQ. WJSn IJHCi IHC Co JyCiS
QiOUuCCU Uy IHC SIJnUJiU HVCIutn Qu!!
QJSIiy iCCiQC UuI JUUin_ J !CW QuiCK
!OUS IO my iCCiQC JOWCUIHC SCOnCS IO
_CnIy iiSC JnU Qu! JSICtS JQQtCCiJlCU
lHJI IHC SCOnCS WCiC nOW muCH i_HlCi
UuI WOnUCiCU i! COuU i_HICn IHCm
CVCn mOiC.
PIHCi IHJn iCWOiKin_]uSIOnC SIyC UCCiUCU
IO Iiy IO Uiin_ IO_CIHCi IHC UCSI QuJiIiCS !tOm
IHC SWCCInCSS O! J CO!!CCHOuSC COn!CCliOn, IHC
mOiSI !iCSHnCSSO!J muHn, IHC iiCHnCSS JnUHuil
O! COIICU CiCJm JnU ] Jm, JnU IHC SuQCi HJKy
CiumU O! J _OOU UiSCuiI. WJnICU SCOnCS i_HI
CnOu_HIO UCCJICnOnIHC _OJnUlHiS UCin_IC
SCJSOn WiIH J HCJIHy UOSC O!!iCSH UuCUCiiiCS.
Ouscccesae cecccgIcecjc,w IcuIaccc~pac ~ecIs.
D _OOU i _HI QJSIiy UCQCnUS On
UiSIinCI Qi CCCS O! UulICi UiSliiUulCU
IHiOu_HOul IHC UOu_H IHJI mCI Uui
in_ UJKin_ JnU CJVC UCHinU QOCKCIS O!
Jii. Oi IHiS IO HJQQCn IHC UuIICi nCCUS
IO UC JS COU JnU SOiU JS QOSSiUC unIi
UJKin_. HC QtOUCm WiIH ltyin_ IO CuI
bCODC bu|_C|y
iJUiIiOnJ SCOnC iCCiQCS CJ !Oi J minimJ
JmOunI O!Su_JiJnU 2 IO 3 IJUCSQOOnS O!UuIICi
QCi CuQ O!HOui. !OunU IHJI J H 4 IJUCSQOOnS
O! UuIICi QCi CuQ O! Oui WJS iUCJJny mOiC
JnUIHC UOu_H UCCJmC UiHCuI IOWOiKWiIH JnU
UJKCU uQ _iCJSy. DUUin_ '/ CuQ Su_Ji QCi CuQ O!
K L L L L > M . bCCDC LCDuS|CD
HOui _JVC IHC SCOnCS SuUIC SWCCInCSS WiIHOuI
UCin_ COyin_ JnU J COmUinJIiOn O!SOui CiCJm
JnU miK O!!CiCU J COnIiJSIin_ IJn_.
\n!OiIunJICy WiIH JIHCJUUCU iiCHnCSS JnU
SWCCInCSS my SCOnCS WCiC Iuinin_ OuI HCJVy
JnU unUCi iiSCn. WJS uSin_ IHC UiSCuiI miXin_
mCIHOU COmmOn IO mOSI SCOnC iCCiQCS. CuIIin_
IHC COU UuIICiinIO IHC Uiy in_iCUiCnIS WiI1 my
Hn_CiIiQS JnU IHCn QuiCKy miXin_ in IHC WCI
in_iCUiCnIS. ! WJS _Oin_ IO CJQIuiC I1C i_HI
Ae|cacsavee~ccedsccces, cuIsc~eI cgasceeccsIcIcs aI cc.
TRAD | T| O NAL
Te 8ritish origina| i s | ean, dq, and
bare|y sweetened. Spoonfu| s of jam
and c| otted cream are a must.
ART| F | C| ALLY SWE ET
Tis scone i s she| |acked with i ci ng and
has ti ny f|ecks of aifi ci a| b| uebeni es
that add co| or but not f|avor.
B | G B LO B
Ti s scone is too |age and amorphous
to cook through, l eaving the center
doughy and unbaked.
L l | |
'
5 | L L L 5 1 K P 1 | L
? ?
UuIICi inlO IHC Oui WiIH yOui Hn_CiS Oi J !OOU
QiOCCSSOiiS IHJI IHC UuIICi _CIS IOOWJim Uuiin_
IHC UiSIiiUuIiOn QiOCCSS. liiCU CVCiy JICinJIiVC
!Oim O! UuIICi inCOiQOiJIiOn COuU IHinK O!
UC!OiC UiSCOVCiin_ IHJI HCCZin_ J SIiCK O!UulICi
JnU _iJIin_ iI On lHC Ji_C HOCS O!J UOX _iJICi
WOiKS UCSI. HC UuIICiCOuU IHCn UCQuiCKyJnU
HOmO_CnCOuSy CuI inlO IHC HOui WHiC iCmJin
in_ CO U. HiS nCW mCIHOU O!UiSIiiUuIin_ IHC
UuIICi KCQI IHC inICiiOt O!IHC SCOnCS ICnUCi JnU
mOiSI WiIHOuI UCin_ UCnSC.
b| uC0C||y b| uCS
OW IHJI U mJUC IHC uIimJlC QJin SCOnC iI
WJS limC lO mOVC On IO JUUin_ IHC UuCUCiiiCS.
Jny iCCiQCS CJ !Oi miXin_ UuCUCtiiCS in WiIH
IHC HOui JnU UuIICi JnU IHCn JUUin_ lHC WCI
in_iCUiCnIS IO !Oim J UOu_H. HC iCSuIS. SCOnCS
I1JI HJVC UCCn UyCU UuC Uy UuU_COnCU UCi
iiCS. YHJI i! inCOiQOiJICU IHC UCiiiCS inIO IHC
JiCJUymiXCUUOu_H: OUiCC. HJU IOKHCJUI1C
UOu_H Jn CXIiJ I O IO I 2IiHCSWHiCH inIiOUuCCU
HiCIiOn JnU HCJI. HC UuIICi U IJKCn SuCH CJiC
IO JUU in SmJ HJKCS WJS mCIiH_ inlO J HOmO_

O
:

-
.

<
L
>
1

O
C
~
C
1
O
cnous mass that wrcakcd havoc onthc tcxturc o|
thchnishcdsconcs.
Low onidcas, I was runningthrough a |ist o|
othcr |oods that attcmpt a scamlcss marriagc o|
distinct c|cmcnts , sandwichcs, napolcons, and
sushi )whcninspiration hna||ystruck-cinnamon
rol l s. What i|I wcrc to distri butc thc bcrrics
cvcnlyovcra| argc,thinsquarco|dough,ro||thc
wholc thing up |ikc a cinnamon ro|| , and thcn
Hattcnthc|ogintoarcctanglcbc|orccuttingthc
sconcsouto|it`
Jhis workcd cvcn bcttcr than I had hopcd.
Ko| | i ng thc b| ucbcrrics anddough i nto a l og
not onlydistributcdthcbcrrics much bcttcrbut
alsocrcatcdmorcHaky|aycrs. Mytcchniquchad
capturcdthcbcstc|cmcnts|rom scvcral sty| cso|
sconc-swcct,moist,rich, Haky,tcndcr,crisp,and
ml|o|huit. owI rcallymighthavc arcasonto
takcabrcak|ortcacvcryancrnoon.
b L U L b L HHY 5 LO M L 5
PKLb
It is important to work thc dough as littlc as
possib|c-work quickly and kncad and |o| d thc
dough on|y thc numbcr o|timcs ca||cd |or. Jhc
buttcr shou|d bc hozcn solid bc|orc grating. In
hotorhumidcnvironmcnts,chi||thcH ourmixturc
andworkbow|s bc|orc usc. Whi|c thc rccipc c |s
|or 2 who|c sticks o|buttcr, only I O tablcspoons
arc actual|y uscd , scc stcp I ) . I||rcsh bcrrics arc
unavailablc,ancqua| amounto||rozcnbcrrics, do
notdchost) can bcsubstitutcd. P cqua| amount
o|raspbcrrics,b|ackbcrrics,orstrawbcrricscanbc
uscdinplacco|thcblucbcrrics. Cut|argcrbcrrics
into + to |inch picccs bc|orc incorporating.
Kchigcratc or |rcczc |cnovcr sconcs, wrappcd in
|oi| , in d airtight containcr. Jo scrvc, rcmovc
|oil and placc sconcs on a baking shcct in a 375
dcgrcc ovcn. Hcat unti| warmcd through and
rccrispcd,8to IO minutcsi|rc|rigcratcd, I6to2O
1LLH M1|ML
\Y!1^\ 11!!!Y
Use IewppeIc c d Iefczec ccIIew e
gI cgIccIeagec' escfaccxgaIe. CaIe
+Iac espcccsfc~eacsI c\cfccIIe.
51LY Y 1LY \11^\ ^ l1^\ !! \\^!
. c d dccg cIc I ds \e a
ccs cess' eIIe) .
2. c d c ecds cf dccg Ic fc~
+ ccsqcae. C ' dccg.
J . Rec'dccg cIc | 2 ccsqcae.
Pessce'es cIcdccg.
9. Rc dccg cIcj e' ,c \e cg
Ic cccpcaIec cece es.
5 . c, cgsea~s dedcwcacdpess
cIcevec ' 2 c,+ ccecIacg e.
. CcI dccg cIc 8 I acgc a
p eces.
minutcsi|hozcn. Sccpagc3O|orin|ormationon
makingthcsconcdoughinadvancc .
l 6 tab| espoons ( 2 st| cks) butter, frozen who| e
(see note above)
l '/ cups (about 7 '/ ounces) fresh b| ueberr| es,
p| cked over (see note above)
'/ cup who| e m| | k
'/ cup sour cream
2 cups ( l 0 ounces) unbl eached al | purpose fl our,
pl us add| t| ona| for work surface
'/ cup ( J '/ ounces) sugar, p| us
l tabl espoon for spr| nkl | ng
2 teaspoons bak| ng powder
'/+ teaspoon bak| ng soda
'/ teaspoon tab| e sa| t
teaspoon f| ne|y grated zest from l | emon
. Adj ust ovcn rack to mi dd| c position and
hcat ovcn to 425 dcgrccs. Scorc and rcmovc
ha||o|wrappcr|romcach sticko||rozcnbuttcr.
Fo| | owingphotoatlcn,gratcunwrappcdcndson
l argc ho|cso|box gratcr , you should gratc total
o|8 tab|cspoons ) . |acc gratcd buttcrin |rcczcr
unti| nccdcd. Mc|t 2 tab|cspoons o|rcmaining
ungratcd buttcr and sct asidc. Savc rcmaining 6
tab|cspoons buttcr |or anothcr usc. Ilacc b| uc
bcrricsin|rcczcrunti | nccdcd.
2 . Whi sk togcthcr mi | k anJ sour crcam i n
mcdi um bow| , rc|ri gcratc unti| nccdcd. Whisk
Hour, '/ cupsugar, baki ngpowdcr,bakingsoda,
sa|t,andlcmonzcstinmcdiumbow| .Add|rozcn
buttcrtol|ourmixturcandtosswi thhngcrsunti |
thorough|ycoatcd.
3 . Add mi | k mi xturc to H our mi xturc, |ol d
with spatu|a unti | j ust combincd. Wi th rubbcr
spatu| a, trans|crdough to |ibcra||y l|ourcd work
sur|acc. Dust surtacc o|dough with llour, with
! | | Y c A | C | .1 2 0 0 /
?
Hourcdhands,kcaddoughC to8 timcs,untilit
j ustholdstogcthcri nraggcdbal|,addingHouras
nccdcdtoprcvcntsticking.
4. Ro| l dough i nto approxi matc I 2 i nch
squarc. !o|loving i|lustrations, |ol ddough into
thirds |ikc a busincss l cttcr, using bcnch scrapcr
or mctal spatu|a to rclcasc dough i|it sticks to
countcrtop. Lih short cnds o| dough and |o|d
into thi rds again to |orm approximatc 4inch
squarc. Jrans|cr dough to p|atc | ight|y dustcd
withHourandchill in|rcczcr5 minutcs.
5. Jrans|cr dough to l|ourcd vork sur|acc
and ro|| into approximatc I 2 inch squarc again.
Sprinklcb|ucbcrricscvcnlyovcrsur|acco|dough,
thcn prcss dovn so thcy arc slight|y cmbcddcd
in dough. Isi ng bcnch scrapcr or thin mctal
spatul a, |ooscn dough |rom vork sur|acc. Kol|
dough,prcssingto|ormtight|og. Layscamsidc
down and prcss log into I 2 by4inchrcctanglc.
Ising sharp, Hourcd kni|c, cut rcctanglc cross
wisc into4 cqual rcctang|cs. Cutcachrcctanglc
diagonal| y to |orm 2 trianglcs and trans|cr to
parchmcnt| incdbakingshcct.
6. rushtopswithmcltcdbuttcrandsprinklc
withrcmainingtablcspoonsugar.Bakcunti|tops
and bottoms arc go|dcn brovn, I 8 to 25 min
utcs. Jrans|crtowircrackand|ctcool !Ominutcs
bc|orcscrvi ng.
p LK L Yb O_ ca' TesIK IcecVdecs
www. C OOKS | | | uS I | 3I 60 . CO m
L Ll L l M 0 b L LLM b
B ceceqSccces
Vl L L l b
c' ea ,ceedaceccscpe
Wecas ~,dccgasceec\ceadedecccg
WaIappecsf' cseccIIeIaI sc` Icc d
WaI` sIecesIwa,IcgIefczec ccIIe
KU>llC IUi 'JlC
J3l |'J ` 3<C 3|OJ' C 3| C3' 3|Ov33C Ol 3u`C|l |C | J `3,
ul l 3 OlC| _ 3| 3|Oll O| lJ l 3\O|

w:ts:b_:n/u:b:n is an Austri an spc
cialty i nwhich ripc, swcct plums , thc
rcgiona|varictyZw:ts:b_:n) arcncstlcd
intorichcakc,orKu:b:n. Iti sasimplc
way to cnjoy a summcrtimc|ruitatitspcak, but
hndinga promisingrccipcwasn` tso casy. I con
su|tcdnumcrouscookbooks and cvcn talkcd to
Austri +ns who grcw up on thc dcsscrt, and I
|carncd that, dcpcnding on which country or
rcgion c|aimcd crcdit, p|um cakc could bc any
tHing |rom anAlsatian tartto a Gcrman ycastcd
brcaJ.nc|ricndrcca|lcdhcrgrandmothcrshak
ing p|ums |rom a trcc, thcn baking thcm into a
cakc, pits and a|| .
1o gctmybcarings,I tricdavarictyo| rccipcs.
In most, thcpl umssankinto tlc cakc and crc
atcd a soddcn ccntcr. Jo gctaroundthi s, somc
rccipcwritcrsplaccda scantlaycro|thinlysliccd
p|umson top, |cavingbchindmouthmlso|plain
cakc. thcrs mixcd up a cakc battcr so dry and
pancakcythatthcp|ums,havingnochoiccbutto
bc spongcd up, did littlc to improvc thc cakc`s
tcxturc.What,I wondcrcd, wasthcsccrcttothis
quintcsscntialrustictrcat`
Itwasn`tuntila|cl | owtcstcooksuggcstcdItry
a plum cakc rccipc that thc N:w Tor/ 7im:s ran
cvcryAugust|rom I 8I to I6tlatI |ounda
sty|co|cakc I likcd. Jhisrccipcwascasytomakc
, acrcamcd cakc battcr sprcad into a spring|orm
pan,toppcdwith plums, and bakcd) , andithad
aHchyp|umprcscncc. Itcallcd|orItalianplums,
|| um L|CDS
RC U LAR RO U N D PLU N S
Cut each p| um | n ha|f, remove p| t,
and cut each ha| f | nto 4 p| eces.
l TALl AN PRU N PL U N S
Cut each p| um | n ha| f and remove p|t.
l Y L K | | ^ K L | L F
and almonds and |ound that in
addition to a wcl comc havor
dimcnsion , al monds wcrc thc
prc|crrcd choi cc with plums ) ,
thc nuts also addcd both bulk
and richncss . So rich was thc
cakc, in |act, I had to cut back
ontlc buttcrto avoi da grcasy
tcxturc . Jhc cxtra structurc
addcd by tl:c nutscnabl cdmc
tobothdccrcascthcH our,mak
ingthc cakc cvcn moistcr) and
omit an cgg whitc , making it
morctcndcr) .
Ha ved ` Ia a~pu~ep u~swc\cesI ~I sAusI a~ sq eca\e.
Addi ng nut s to t hc rccipc
a|so l cd mc to rccxaminc thc
mixi ng mcthod |or this cakc.
I dcci dcd to try mcl ti ng thc
buttcr and mi xi ng cvcrythi ng
i n thc |ood proccssor,whi ch I
was a|rcady using to grind tlc
nuts, i nstcad o| thc standard
crcami ng mcthod , whi ppi ng
thc sugar and buttcr togcthcr
bc|orc adding thc othcr ingrc
dicnts ) . otonlywas thc |ood
proccssormcthodmorcstrcam
lincd, but i talsogavcthc cakc
a dcnscr, chcwi cr qual i ty-a
l ittlc too dcnsc, cvcn. A switch
which arc wcll suitcd to baki ng. Although tl:i s
buttcryycllowcakcwassturdycnoughtosupport
a|l thc |ruit, tastcrs criticizcd it|or bcingonthc
drysidc.Andthc |ruitwasrat|crbland,nccding
cmbcllishmcntbcyond thc uni nspircdsprinkling
o|cinnamon and sugar. I sct out to add somc
h ncssctothisrccipc.
bu| | d| D_ 3 bC\\C| L3kC
With its simp|c ingrcdicnt |ist o| buttcr, sugar,
llour, cggs, salt, and baking powdcr, my work
ing rccipc didn`t contain any |iquid dairy cl c
mcnt, whi chcxplaincdwhyt|:c battcrwasstrong
cnough to support a|l tl:osc plums and also t|c
dryncssmytastcrs hadcomp|ai ncdabout. I tricd
addingalitt|cmilk,butthccakcturncd|ightand
llu|[, and thc |ruitp|ummctcd to thcbottomo|
thcpan. Jhiscakcnccdsto bcdcnscandsturdy.
Many rich Europcancakcsrcplaccsomc o|thc
H ourwithgroundnuts.Itricdhazc|nuts,walnuts,
L | | |

5 | | | L 5 | K P 1 L
? 4
tosohcncdbuttcr,addcdtothc
dry i ngrcdicnts bc|orc thc cggs, madc thc cakc
lightcr, this cakc now o||crcd thc ri ght tcxtural
contrasttothctcndcr|ruit.
| um PSS| _DmCD\
Jhcsmal l Italianpruncpl umsuscdi nmywork
ing rccipc arc prizcd |or baking duc to thcir
rclativcly dry, hrm Hcsh and thin ski n. ut miss
thosc |cw wcckswhcn thcy`rc inscason andyou
arc plumb outo| luck. I wantcdawaytoprcparc
thiscakcwithanyvarictyo|hcshplum.
I |oundthatcvcn I talianpruncpl umsnccdcd
somc hclp to rcalizc thcir mll potcnti al . I tricd
tossingthc plum halvcs in sugar alonc and thcn
in mcl tcd buttcr and sugar, to l i ttl c succcss .
Rcalizing somcthing morc drastic was going to
bc ncccssary to gct morc than adcquatc plum
Havor, I startcdwith a battcryo|plumprccook
ingmctlods. Itricdroastingtlcplums, tosscdin
mc|tcd buttcrand sugar) andpoachingtl:cm i n

Z
o

~
.
o
<
L
>
1

O
C

C
1
L
AT A G LAH C b!|Y!Jb J\ !Y!|J 11A |1
5 mi nutcs, shaki ng pan t o prcvcnt
p|ums |rom sticki ng. Coo| p|ums in
pan,about2Ominutcs.
L00K ID0 UmS. LC0I| y 0CI| 0_
| un5 | 0 CW I0| C5CC05 C n 0U
0|0Uy 0C| _0IC05 I0C| | | vC| W| I0CuI
CvC|CCCk| 0_I0Cn.
LS0 DCK, HCD L&K0 &II0f. 10C
0IIC|nu5I0CI0| CkC0Cu_0IC5uC|I
I0C |u| I, W| I0CuI0C| 0_U|y. J0C 5CC|CI:
L|Cu0U0 uI5.
CK WID fU I. 1Cu W0I |u| I | 0
2. Adj ustovcnrackt omidd|cposi
tion and hcat ovcn to 35O dcgrccs.
Grcasc and ll our i nch spring|orm
pan. Iroccss sugar and a|monds in
|ood proccssor until nuts arc h nc|y
ground, about ! minutc. Add l|our,
baki ng powdcr, and sa| t, pu| sc to
combinc. Add buttcr and pu|sc unti|
mixturc rcscmb| cscoarsc sand, about
tcn! sccondpu|scs .Addcggs,vani||a,
anda|mondcxtract,i|using)andpro
ccss unti| smooth, about 5 scconds,
scraping bow| oncc i|nccdcd , battcr
sugarsyrup. Jhcscmcthodsintcnsihcdthcllavor
o|tHcp|ums, but thc |ruitbakcd upovcrcookcd
andmushy.
ccdingaquickcrcookingmcthod,I sautccd
tHc p|ums, cutsidc down, in buttcr and sugar
in a ski| | cton thc stovctop. A|thoughthc p|ums
dcvc|opcd a nicc go|dcn co|or and caramc|izcd
Havor,thchighhcatcauscdthcskinstopcc| back
and thc llcsh to b| ow out-mushy |rui t oncc
agai n. I tricdmakingcaramc|inthcpanandthcn
addingthc |ruit,butthccaramc|wassti| lso hot
that thc |ruit bccamc ovcrcookcd. Coo|ing thc
caramclh rstcauscdittohardcn,makingiti mpos
sib|ctocombincwiththcplums.
I was almost rcady to givc up on thc ski| | ct
a|togcthcrwhcnI dccidcdto rcthinkhow I was
using it. What i|I kcpt tHc p|ums in thc ski | | ct
but cookcd thcm ovcr a gcnt| cr hcat` Jruc, I
was |or|citing any chancc o|caramc| i zi ng thc
p| ums,butpcrhapsI cou|dsti||coaxmorcllavor
withoutsacrihcingtcxturc.Withjust asprinkling
o|sugar in thc pan undcr thc p|ums, I startcd
thcm on mcdium hcat. Jhcy s| ow|y bcgan to
rc|casc tl:cir juiccs, which |ormcd a syrup with
thcsugar.E||cctivc|ypoachcdinthcirownj uiccs,
thcp|umswcrcintcnsc|yHavorcdwithoutbcing
ovcrcookcd. Andoncc in thc cakc, thcir syrupy
sur|accs staycd moist cvcn a|tcr a spc| l i n thc
ovcn. cst o|a| | , this tcchniquc workcd with
cvcryvarictyo|p| umI tcstcd.
Excitcd about thi sso|ution, I cxp|orcd ot|:cr
Havoring options,wondcring i|thcrc was somc
thingmorcintcrcstingtoaddtl:anp| ai nsugar. I
tricd brown sugarand cinnamon, but tl:cscbot|:
dumbcd down thc bright Havors o|thc |rui t.
Lcmonj ui ccgavc a ni cckickbutwas tooasscr
tivc. I |ound rcd |ruitj ams cnhanccd thc |ruiti
ncsso|thc p|ums bcttcrthanp|ainsugar,and a
shot o|brandy addcd a nicc tartncss. Rcduci ng
thcbrandywiththcj amhrstc|imi natcdanyharsh
boozincss. Fina||y, I had |andcd on a p| um cakc
truc to its namc, and I kncw cating it wou|d bc
tHchigh|ighto|mysummcr.
CvC|y 0| IC, 5C | CC | un5 [5k| 0 5| UC
UCW00U0CIICuC0| 0_0CU_C5)CvC|
C0I| |C 5u|CCC0IIC|.
H U 51 L L U M LPKL
b L HVLb 0 L
Jhis rccipcworks bcstwit|: Ita|ian p| ums, which
arc a|soca||cdprunc p| ums. I|substitutingrcgu
|ar rcd or b|ack p|ums, usc an cqua| wcight o|
p| ums, cut tl:cm into cight|:s, and stir tl:cm a
|cw timcs whi|c cooking. Airangc s|iccs, s|ight|y
ovcr|appcd,intworingsovcrsurtacc o|cakc. Do
not usc canncd Ita| ian p| ums. |anchcd who| c
a| mondscan bc uscd but must bc proccsscd 3O
scconds| ongcrunti| hnc| y ground. Jhc brandy
can bc omittcd, but t|:cn you wi|| nccd to mc| t
thc j am wit|: tab|cspoon watcr bc|orc adding
tl:cp| ums. Don`tadd tl:c |chovcr p|um cooking
|iquid to tHc cakc bc|orc baking, rcscrvc it and
scrvc with t|:c hnishcd cakc or ovcr icc crcam.
Jhc cakc can bc scrvcd with |igHt|y swcctcncd
whippcdcrcam.
2 tabl espoons red currant or seedl ess raspberry j am
1 tabl espoons brandy
pound (about l 0 | arge or l 4 smal | ) l tal | an prune
pl ums, hal ved and p| tted (see note above)
V cup (1/-ounces) unbl eached al | purpose fl our,
p| us extra for dust| ng pan
V cup ( ! '/-ounces) sugar
' cup (l '/ ounces) sl | vered a| monds
'/ teaspoon bak| ng powder
'/- teaspoon tabl e sal t
6 tab| espoons unsa| ted butter, cut | nto 6 p| eces,
softened but st| l | coo|
| arge egg p| us l l arge yol k, room temperature
teaspoon van| l | a extract
'/- teaspoon a| mond extract (opt| onal )
Confect| oners' sugar for serv| ng
. Cookj am and brandy in I O inch nonstick
ski | | ct ovcr mcdium Hcat unti| rcduccd to thick
syrup, 2 to 3 minutcs. Kcmovc ski | | ct|rom Hcat
and p|accp|umscutsidcdownin syrup. Rcturn
ski | | cttomcdiumhcatandcookunti|p|umsshcd
thcirj uiccsandthicksyrupisagain|ormcd,about
1 | ' Y c ^ |` C | ' > | . l l /
. '
wi||bcvcrythickandhcavy) .
3. Jrans|crbattcrt oprcparcd pan,
using spatu|a, sprcad battcr cvcn|y to
pancdgcsand smoothsur|acc. Stirp|umstocoat
withsyrup. Arrangcp| umhalvcs, ski nsidcdown,
cvcn|y ovcr sur|acc o|battcr. akc unti| cakc is
go|dcnbrownand woodcnskcwcri nscrtcd into
ccntcr comcs out with |cw crumbs attachcd,4O
to 5O minutcs. Run paringkni|c aroundsidcso|
cakc to |ooscn. Coo| in pan on wirc rack unti|
j ust warm or to room tcmpcraturc, at |cast 3O
minutcs. Rcmovc cakc |rom pan and dustwith
con|cctioncrs`sugar. Cutinto wcdgcs andscrvc.
L [ L | L M L b M L .
P| D| LSC\ b3\u| 3S
VCvC Cu0U I0I I5K5 | | kC 5|CU| 0_ 0IIC| | 0
CkC 0 C| |C5I| 0_ CuCkC5 |C |CI C5| C|W|I0
n| 0| C5CI 5Iu| . J0C5C nCUC|IC| y || CCU,
0| u0ICU_CU nCI| 5IQ 0| UC5, W0| C0 vC|_C
0CuI +'z | 0C0C5 | C0_, |C C5CC| | | y 0C| u| | 0
5|CU| 0_I0C5I| C0IIC|| 0Cu|u5I| C || u nLkC
|CC| C. VCIC5ICU|vC nCUC| 50U Cu0U5|_0|| C0I
U|C|C0CC5. J0| 00| UC5WC00| CU 0UWCCUC0M0
U| C5 05C|0CU CUC|. Lu|IC C0C| CC, I0C V| | IC0
/0_| CU LCnC|I L|| d | 0C0 bIu| I+. +J) , 05
5Iu|Uy, |Cu0U I| CU 0| UC 0U 0 C5y IC_||
C| y|Cy| C0C00U| C. |C|CCn| CICIC5I| 0_|C5u| I5,
_CICW . CCCK| | | u5I|ICU. CCn/u_u5I.
B ST O | TH H l N l S
T| s W||ton m| n| spatu|a ohers
great contro| when spread| ng
batter or | c| ng.
L| | 20CI0 OCn2C
COOK' S L VL L||_| 0| JC5I 6| IC0C0V| UCC5
www. c ooks | | | u S \ | 3\ 60. c o m
L Ll L l M 0 b L LLMb
u5I| C || u nLkC
Vl L L l
V0I 5I0C 0C5I WyIC nC5u|C | Cu |
'JI `O \ |OOG `|ClHJllCl JCJ
.O u|.3 C ||3|. 3| |_|C| || C l3_. l|3|. 3lC |lO 3 |CllC| u| O lC3

n our 2OO3 tasting otsupcrmarkct black
tcas,thc tcstkitchcn prctcrrcd Iipton, but
wcrcallywcrcn` tthatimprcsscdwithanyot
thcm. Rcccntly,tcacompanicshavccrcatcd
manymorcoptions, includingwhatthcyprcscnt
as highcr quality ottcrings in thc torm otloosc
lcavcs,spccialblcnds,orncwpyramidshapcdtca
bags.Wcdccidcdit`stimctohndoutitthcsupcr
markcthasthcmakingsotagrcatcupottca.
Whilcyoucanmdblack,grccn,andcvcnwhitc
tcaonthcshclvcsthcscdays,it`sallhomtlc samc
plant, an cvcrgrccn callcd Cnm:hin sin:nsis. 1hc
colorandH avordincrcnccscomchomthcwaythc
tcalcavcs arcproccsscd. Bccausc 87 pcrccntotall
tcadrunkinAmcricaisblack,wcdccidcdtotocus
our tasting on black tcas. Wc bought thc morc
upscalc"ohcringsdistributcdbynationalbrands,
all labclcdsimplyblack tca or English brcaktast
typcblcnds,apopularmotblacktcasdcsigncdto
standuptothcmilkandsugarpopularanongtlc
Brits.Wcchoscloosctcawhcnitwasavailablcand
tcabagswhcnitwasnot,includingtlrcctcasthat
camc inthc ncwpyramidshapcd bags,which arc
toutcdashavingmorcroomtorthctcatocxpand
torbcttcrUavor.Dpanclot2Otastcrshomourstatt
samplcd I Otcas,bothplainandwithmilk.
|y Lu OC3
Pidcalcupotblacktcashouldtastchcsh,withno
stalcovcrtoncs,andshouldnottastcburnt,though
asmokyorcarthyUavorisacccptablc.Itshouldnot
bcycastyorsour.Itshouldhavcaplcasingaroma,
abnghtcolor,andacnsprathcrthanhcavyUavor,
with somc otthc astngcncy tcaprotcssionals call
briskncss. " Black tca gcts thcsc charactcristics
hom a numbcr ot tactors, including whcrc it is
gow coolcr tcmpcraturcs at highcr clcvations
slowdownthcplant`sgrowthandlctitbuildmorc
Uavor) , whcn it is pickcd thc ohcnprizcd hrst
Uush" isuc carlicst), howitispickcd by hand is
considcrcdbcttcr,machincscanbcroughandtcar
upoldcr,toughcrlcavcs inaddition tot|cdcsircd
toptwolcavcsandbud) , andhowitisproccsscd.
Whcnmaking blacktca,proccssorslctthchar
vcstcdlcavcswithcrtorupto24hours,ucnroll
orcutthcm. 1hisbrcaksthcccllwallsandrclcascs
cnzymcsuat oxidizc to dcvclop thc tca`s llavor
and color-in thc casc otblack tca, turning tlc
lcavcsblack. Jhcnucyhcat orhrc") thcl cavcs
to stopoxidationbctorc dryingucmuntil thcy
looklikctamiliardrytca. Jhclcavcsarcucnsold
totcacompanics,whichgcncrallyblcndtcahom
scvcralsourccs,althoughrcallyhncqualityl cavcs
Y l | ' ^ ` C ` ^ L ' <
arc ohcn kcptunb|cndcdassingl ccstatctcas .
ur tastcrs bcgan by asscssing thc tca sam
pl cs` aroma, tollowcd by complcxity otll avor,
astringcncy, and ovcral l appcal . Jastcrs` scorcs
tor aromamost closclytrackcdwiththcirovcrall
ranking otthc tcas. Whcncvcr thc tca tailcd to
dclivcr on that aromatic promisc, howcvcr, our
tastcrs downgradcd it. urtastcrsalsoprctcrrcd
tcaswithsmoothcr,lcssastringcntprohl cs.
|3\\C|S O 3S\C
Forour ncxt tcst,wccxamincdthcl cavcs, opcn
ingupthctcabagsas nccdcd. 1hc l cavcsvaricd
i nsizcandtcxturctromhaltinchtwiglikcpicccs
ottightly rollcd l cavcs to tiny Uakcs no biggcr
than coarsc cottcc grounds. Whilc tca ahcio
nados wil l tcl l you that biggcr is bcttcr whcn
it comcs to lcatsizc, wc disagrcc. ur top to
tcas had thc scvcnth and sixthsmallcst l cavcs,
rcspcctivcly,outotthcOtcaswctastcd. Whilc
a largcr lcatmay givc you morc complcxity ot
Uavor, you always havc to j udgc by what you
tastc in thc cup, " said Donna Fcllman ot tlc
Spccialty1ca I nstitutci ncwYork.
In thc pl ain tasting, our two highcstrankcd
tcas wcrc trom Bri ti sh compani cs . 1wi ni ngs
Fnglish Brcaktast a loosc tca) andL 1i ps in
pyramid bags) . 1hcsc tcas ottcrcdstrong, bright
Uavor with j ust a littlc astringcncy-thc balancc
thatourtastcrslikcdbcstwithoutmilk.
Wc had onc morc cxpcrimcnt. All thrcc tcas
i npyramid shapcdbagshad shownwcll , andt|c
tcas in traditional bags pcrtormcd poorly. Wc
dccidcdto scc ititwasthc bag or thc tca bytak
ingtcaoutottwotraditionalbagsandbrcwingit
instcad in1 Sacs, hl l ityourscltpapcr bagswith
gussctcdbottomsthatgivcthcm a shapc similar
to thc pyrami d bag` s. Rcgular Iipton tca still
tailcd to imprcss tastcrs, but rcmovcd nom its
diskshapcdbag,1ctlcypcrtormcd much bcttcr.
Fvidcntly, thc roomicrpyramid bags or 1Sacs)
hc|pcd. lnally, bcttcrUavor didn`t mcan highcr
priccs. Whilc thc tcas inourlincup rangcdtrom
S. 38 to S3 . pcrouncc,ourtoptwotcaswcrc
S I . 4! andS. 47pcrouncc.
Surprisingly,whcnwc tricd thc tcas againwith
milk, thc rcsults wcrc ncarly thc oppositc. Jca
gcts its astringcncytromtannic substanccscallcd
catcchins. Jastcdpl ain,tlctcasthattastcrsratcd
lowcst tor astringcncy and highcst tor complcx
ity ot llavor rosc in thc rankings. Whcn milk
wasaddcd, tcas dccmcd too harsh bccanc quitc
palatablc, and tlosc thatwcrc smootlcr but lcss
t | | | 5 | L L L 5 1 K P 1 |
?
robustlyllavorcdsankinourtastcrs` cstimation.
1hcrc`sachcmicalcxplanationtorthis. Irotcins
in thc milk callcd cascins bind with thc tca`s cat
cchins, taking thc cdgc ottthc astringcnt cttcct
onyour palatc. D littlc astringcncyis considcrcd
agoodcharactcristici nablacktca. Buttoomuch
turncdotttastcrs, unlcss itwas maskcd by milk.
Jcadrinkcrsamonguswcrchrmaboutourprct
crcncctoralwaysdrinkingtcawiu rvthout-
milk. Sowcdccidcdtoprcscntthctoprankcdtcas
in cach tasting and lct you tocus on thc scction
tlatapplicstothcwayyoudrinkyourtca.
| S 3DCy C3 PDy bCC|'
P|e~ u~ Ieas a|e a' ~csI a wa,s p csed c,
acd, sc d ccse, acd ~a c|de|ed. We ccse
ccg s c|ea<asI 5 ecds fc~ fve geod Iea
cc~pac es-Ha|ce, & Sccs, UpIccTea ' ~pc|Is,
Ya|age |e|es, Y gq 'eaf, acd Adag c-acd
IasIedIe~p a caga csIcu|w cc cgsupe|~a|seI
Iea,Tw c cgsccg sB|ea<asI, aodaga cwI ~ s
aga csITazcAwase, cu|favc|Ie supe|~a|seIIea
wec~ ' ssadded. 'c Iep' a oIasI cg, Ygq'eaf
Oao cccg sB|ea<asI Tea I7. 9Sfc| + cucces,
c|I ' . 99pe|cucce)wccc,a' aods de. WI~ s,
|esu Iscacgedd~aI ca ,. Ha|ce,&Sccscog s
B|ea<asI Tea I ' 9 fc| ' pcucd, c| I' . ' 9 pe|
cucce) ~cvedf|c~f hp ace cIe p a c IasIog
IcIeIcp. fc|supe|~a|seIIeas,Tw c cgsacd
Tazc pe|lc|~ed |especIac' , c suc |f ed a |,
|acs cgc Ie ~ dd' ecfIe pacsc ccI Ie p' a c
acdw I~ ' sIasI ogs.c|cc~p eIeIasI cg|esu' Is,
gc Ic w . cccss ' usIIed. cc~/augusI. Scu|ces
fc|Iew co ogIeasa|e sIedccpage J2. LY.
N l C HTY LA|
Our p| a| n w| nner.
HARN Y & S ONS
Sh| ned w|th m| | k.
COOK' S L VL O|_ ca' TesI K Icec V dec
www. C OOKS | | uS I |3I6 0 . C Om
Be cdIeSceces. TeaTasI cg
J/`J l\ `\^/IJ J/
JWC0] Coo/s Ibustrnt:d SId 0C00C|S IdSICU | ICdS, | d| 0 d0UW| I0 0| | KdUUCU. J0C IC ICdS |C0 CdC0 IdSI| 0_d|C | | SICU 0C| CW |0 C|UC|C|CC|C0CC. |CIC I0dI
0|d0USI0dIS0CWCU WC| | W0C0 IdSICU | d| 0WC|C _C0C|d| | yQu| lC Uu| | W0C0 IdSICU W| I0 0| | K, | | KCW| SC, 0|d0USIdIS0CWCU WC| | W0C0 IdSICU W| I0 0| | KWC|C _C0C|| |y ICC
SI|C0_W0C0IdSICU | d| 0. ||| CCSWC|C d|U dIOCSIC0 d|CdSuC|0d|kCIS.
1 Ml MU5LMUU5MbHLKrP51LP
@Sqle. LCCSC!Cd
@Or|g| n. | 0d| a, 6C0y
@Pr|ce. $7. 7JC| J. JCu0CC!| 0 [ $ | . | C|
Cu0CC)
@Comments. ||u| ]d0USnCCI0, | C|| , |d
g|0!, 0| CC d0d 0d| d0CCd, dg|CCd !dS!C|5, W0C | | kCd
!0d!!0| S!CdWdS0C!!CCS!|C0g 0u!dCkCdd| C!
C|dvC|
,
PgCCd, 0C| dCuC!Cd. L0CC|| Cd0d
d| | !0d!.
FU 1 F5
@Sqle. Q|n| ddC|!Cd 0d_S
@Or|g| n. | 0d| d, 6Cuyd, o|| L0kd
@Pr| ce. $ | Z. JC|Z 0dgS [ $ . JC|Cu0CC)
@Comments. |C!ICCdS!|| 0gC0!C| Cd0
!dS!|0gd0dvC|y 0| CC, nCS!!dS!C|5dg|CCd,W| !0
d | CvC|yWCCd5ySnC| | d0dd0| CC0d| d0CC!0d!
nd!C0CS!0Cd|Cnd, W|!0 0| 0!SC`C|!|uSd0d
`!|C| Cd| |u| !.
b ULLOWMOVU5KLM LWOHM LLYLOM
@Sq| e. Q|n| d0y| C0 nCS0ICd0dgS
@Or|g| n. o|| L0k
@Pr| ce. $. JC| | J 0dgS [ $ J . 77C|Cu0CC)
@Comments. dS!C|Sd|CC|d!Cdd0 Cd|I0y
qud| | ]|0 !0|S !Cd,W|!0d | |g0!|y|C||d|Cnd d0d d
SuC|SnCC!0, d| nCS!0C0CyCd|dvC| d0d
nCdC|!C 0Cdy.
UFOMbLLKFLHL
@Sq| e. Q|n| d0y| C0 nCS0!Cd0dgS
@Orig| n. o|| Ld0k
@Pr| ce. $ J . J 7C|Z0dgS [ $Z. ZC|Cu0CC)
@Comments. LCCdd0dSnCC!0, !0| S!CdWdS
|u|], | CdSd0I, d0d n| | d, W|!0 d C| Cd0!dSIC !0d!
0u| | dS|0 !0C nCu!0, W|!0d Su||| S| 0g|ygCCd
d!C|!dS!C d0d `S| | g0!dS!||0gC0Cy. oCnC, 0CWCvC|,
Cu0d| !`0C!0| 0gSCC| a| .
5P5M LMUU5MbHLPKrP51LP
@Sq| e. LCCSC!Cd
@Or|g| n. o|| L0k, | 0d| d, d0d L0| 0d
@Pr| ce. $ J . 7J C| J . J Cu0CCS [ $ | . JC|Cu0CC)
@Comments. PSI|C0gSnC|dvC|d0U | CW
dS!|| 0gC0Cy. | | CvC | !, Sd| dC0CIdS!C|, d0dC!0C|S
dg|CCd qu| !CSnCC!0 , WCCdSy, | C|d| , d0d SWCC!
SnC| | | 0g. MCWCvC|, dCWCu0d| ! 0Oy d0d
nuS]| | kCd 0d|0 .
MCw YC b|CwCd Lu| C3
1OPWPKL
@Sq|e. LCCSC!Cd
@Or|g| n. o|| L0k, | 0d| d
@Pr|ce. $Z | . Jd C| | J. Cu0CCS [ $ | . ZJ C|Cu0CC)
@Comments. VCW' LI|C0C| ySnC,W| !0d
S!|C0_, C| Cd0 IdS!C. VCQ_CCd. ` ||u| ], dC| | C| CuS, d0d
SnCC!0,W| !0d nCSI| CdSd0Id|C0d, C|unCd0u!
0C!CvC||y|CC| CuS. 1dS!C|5| | kCd| !SS| Cy0C!CSC
C| CvC, C| 00dnC0, dudvd0| | | d. L|Cd!0d| d0CCC|dvC|
d0d | 0!C0S| ].
1LLLY5FLLlPL11LP LMUU5M bHLPKrP5
@Sq|e. L| SkS0dCUdC|!Cd 0dgS
@Or|g| n. | 0U| d, o|| L0Kd, 6C0yd
@Pr|ce. $ J . | 7 C|Z0dgS [ $Z. ZdC|Cu0CC)
@ Comments. Od| d0CCd, S!d0dSu!Cn| | k, W|!0
d 0|g|dvC| !0d!| Su| | 0Cd| Cd d0d gCCdd0d
CCn| C, W| !0d || C0, S!CCCdd|Cnd.
HLUHO5L
@Sty|e. |CCSC!Cd
@ Or|gi n. o|| L0kd, | 0d| d, 6C0yd, | 0dC0CS| d
@Pr|ce. $J C| d Cu0CCS[ $ . J dC|Cu0CC)
@Comments. Cd|dvC|CCnCS!0|Cug0!0Cn| | k,
W|!0d0`d| nCS!SdvC|y, SI|C0g, CCn| Cd0ddSSC|
I|vCIdSICI0dI0dS0CICSCu0K| 0 d0U C|CvC.
UFOM1L
@Sq|e. |C| dCddud| dC|!Cd 0dgS
@Or|g| n. PC0d0g| 0g0| Cud|Cn nd0yCCu0!||CS

+t 7
v||- :1..,
o a.-LI iot ..r
d|Cu0dI0CWC|| d, SuC0dSo|| L0Kd, | 0d| d, 6C0yd,
B @
| 0dC0CS| d, L0| 0d, O|d2| | , P_C0!| 0d, LCuddC|,
"d|dW| ,V|C!0dn, d0d|CWLu| 0Cd
@Pr|ce. $. 77C| | 0d_S [ $. ZC|Cu0CC)
@Comments. onC| | | 0g5WCC!, | | KC 0C0Cy,d0d
yCdS], | | kCdCug0, | ICdnCdC|CSSdS | d| 0!S!| 0g,
0C!d||| 0g, S!|C0_0u!|dvC||u| vCQd|| 0k0| C.
ML KLLLMMLMLLL
LLLL5PL5LP5OM MU5ULVOM5Ml HL LMUU5MBHLKrP5
@Sty|e. oqud|C dC|!Cd 0d_S
@Or|g| n. | 0d| d, 6C0yd
@Pr|ce. $Z. >7C|Z 0d_S [ $ Z. | C|Cu0CC)
@Comments. Lg0I d|Cnd,| |_0!|dvC|,| | g0I
CvCQ0|0gWdS!0CCC0SC0SuS0C|C, W|!0dCW
USICC| | k|0_|!S |Cu0d0CSS, 0uICI0CCCd| | | 0_|!
C0C0C!C C|du| | d0d0C|| 0g, ddd|0g!0d!0C!0
|0gSU0dSCu!. |S!Ca|0kCd|dS!| u0C!DUS!|0gS.
JCdCC|IS |CCC00C0U0|CW| 0_0| dCKICdC|I0|CCIC|vC 0| 0uICS, C| d| 0| 0_ I0dI | C0_C|0|CW| 0_0|| 0_SCuId 0d|S, 0| IIC||dvC|.VCuII| SIC I0C ICSI, IdSI| 0_ICdSd0| CS
dII0|CC, Cu|, d0U |vC0| 0uICS, d0U UCIC|0| 0CU I0dICu | 0| 0uICSWdSI0C 0CSIC|u| | |dvC|W| I0CuI0d|0CSS. L| Cd0 IdSI| 0_WdIC| | SI0CCu 0UdI| C0C_CCU ICd, SCWC
ICCK|CS0, CC| US|| 0_WdIC|, 0|Cu_0I|IICdu| | 0C| | , I0C0 | 00CU| dIC| yCu|CU |I CvC| IC ICd 0d_S |0 d |CWd|0CUI0C|0d| Cd|dC. [OC| | | 0_ I0C WdIC| ICC | C0_| CIS U| SSC| vCU
C_C0CSCdC, | CdU| 0_ IC d | dIIdSI| 0_CuCICd. ) VC uSCU J odCS, | | | | IyCu|SC| dC|ICd 0d_SSC| U |0 ICd S0CS, IC 0C| UCu| | CCSC ICd d0USCII| CU C0 '

aCu0CC [d0CuI
Z ICdSCC0S, 0CIdCKCU UCW0) C| CCSC ICd C| JodCdSd0 CQu|vd| C0IIC C0C ICd 0d_. VCd| SC uSCU I0C ICd | 0UuSI_ Sld0Ud|U C Cu0CCS CWdIC| C|ICdCu. |C| Cu|
SCCC0UIdSI| 0_, W| I0 0| | K, WC ICSICU |CC|I| C0Sd0U UCC| UCU ICdUU | Cu C0| | KICCdC0 0d|_d| | C0CICd 0CC|CSC|| 0_. '. Y.
) L L 1 ^ L | L 5 J 2 0 0 /
? /
D `CJlC Ol lC CllCCl |JlIC lC>>
3| ,OJ| |O C O _3|' |C33 3lCl l|C l 3\O| O ,OJ| 3|C3 `OJ |C 3J | 3C.
\
c havc a crush on garlic i n thc
tcst kitchcn. It appcars in morc
thanoncquartcro|ourrccipcs,
andinmosto|thoscwc suggcst
usingagarl icprcss.1hisishcrcsytosomcpro|cs
sionalchc|s . Whynotj ustmi ncc`vcrthcycars,
wc`vc lcarncd that |or thc avcragc homc cook,
a garlic prcss i s |astcr, casicr, and morc c||cc
tivc than tryingtogcta nnc, cvcn mincc with a
chc|`s kni|c. Morc important, garlic`s llavor and
aromacmcrgc only as its ccll wall sarc rupturcd
andrclcascan cnzymccallcdalliinasc,soanncly
proccsscd clovc givcs you a bcttcr distribution
o|garlic and mllcrgarlic llavor throughout thc
dish.Evcnourtcstcooks,traincdtominccwitha
kni|c, gcncrallygrab agarlicprcsswhcncooki ng.
Andhcrc` sthcbcstpart. Wi thagoodgarlicprcss,
DC L3SC C DC |CC| | D_ ||CSS
V0C0WC||SI0OI| CCUI0dII0CCOdI| 0_0dU CC| CU
O | 0 dIC0CS O0 d| | O I0C {| | SS _d|| | C |CSSCS
| 0 I0C ICSI k| IC0C0, WC U| U0 I WO||y. CCC0I|y,
0OWCvC|, WC 0OICU I0dI d I| 0y d0Ou0I O 0| dCk
Su0SId0CC SO0CI| 0CSOO2CSO0IO Ou|_d|| | C dSWC
|CSS | I. /IC| SO0C U|__| 0_, WC U| SCOvC|CU I0dI
W0C0 I0C 0O0SI| Ck COdI| 0_ CC| S O, COC| d0U
| |O0 | 0 I0C d| u0| 0u0 0dSC 0CId| |CdCI W| I0 I0C
d| | d0U Su|u| CO0Ou0US | 0 I0C _d|| | C IO C|CdIC
OX| UCSd0U Su| | UCS, W0| C0 WC SO0CI| 0CS SCC dS d
0| dCKSu0SId0CC O0 Ou|CXI|uUCU_d|| | C. | I SS| 0| | d|
IOI0C U| SCO| O|dI| O0 |O0 d0O| U dS0| O0CU Cd|0O0
SICC| k0| C, d0U | I S 0OIIOX| C, dCCO|U| 0_IO SC| C0CC
CXCOS WC SOkC IO. |dI||CC LC|0C|, U| |CCIO| O
|OUuCI UCvC| O0C0I | 0IC|0dI| O0d| dI{| | SS Ob/,
CO0CCUCS, | I UOCS0 I | OOk 0| CC, O| Su|C, 0uI | I S
0OI Ud0_C|OuS. mC Sd| U SO0C CC| | 0_ | S 0O|0d|
| 0S| UC I0C 0OC|, W0C|C I0C | u0_C| SC|dIC0CS
d_d| 0SII0C0dSkCI. | I0|_0I0C 0O|0d| , 0uI| I S0OI
vCQdCd| | 0_. '. Y. __
The nonst|ck coat|ng pee| ed
oh our prev|ous|y top ranked
presses, made by Zy| |ss, send| ng
us back to the k|tchen to test
new mode| s.
= Y l | ' ^ ^ . ` ^ L ' E
you don` tcvcnhavc to stop and pccl thc clovcs.
Amcricansarcusingmorcgarlicthancvcr,and
it sccms that cvcrykitchcntool manu|acturcr is
tryingto bui|d a bcttcrgarlic prcss. Many ot|cr
two or thrcc modcls, traditional and innovativc,
hoping to catch thc cyc or thc budgct o|cvcry
cook. Iriccscanrangc|romlcssthan S5 tomorc
thanSoO. Whilcyoumightimagincthatthcgarlic
prcss,whichhasbccninAmcricasinccthc I 50s,
has a prctty wcllcstablishcd dcsignwi th all thc
kinksworkcdout,ourtcstsquicklyrcvcalcdthat
this i s not thc casc. Wc roundcd up ncarly two
dozcnmodc| s and bushclso||rcshgarlic to nnd
thcbcstprcss|oryour|itchcn.
|| 3VO| || D0
Butthcnit occurrcd to us. Bcyond howcasyit
istosqucczc,docsyourgarlicprcssrcall ymattcr
inyourcooki ng`Willthcrightgarlicprcssmakc
your |oodtastcbcttcr`Wcwcrc skcptical , buta
quicktcstrcvcalcdasurprisinganswcr.Wc chosc
scvcn rcprcscntativc prcsscs and uscd thcm to
makcscvcn batchcs o|ourIastawith Garlicand
l ivc il , March/April 2OOI ) . It was rcmark
ablctonotcthcwidcrangco|garlicllavor,|rom
mi l dtorobust, whcnthconlydi||crcnccwasthc
prcss uscd to prcparc thc garlic . Largcrchunks
o|garlic tcndcd to drop to thc bottom o|thc
bowl , making most o|thc dish too bland. And
whcn thc picccs wcrc uncvcn, tiny |ragmcnts
ovcrcookcd to bittcrncss. 1astcrs ovcrwhcl m
i ngly prc|crrcd thc samplcs with thc nncstand
most uni|orm garlic pi cccs, whi ch produccd a
wc|l dcvclopcd gar|ic llavor and consistcnt tcx
turcthroughoutthcdish.
Wc dccidcd that a garlic prcss`s most impor
tantattri butcwasthcabilitytoproduccannc and
uni|ormgarlicconsistcncy.Wcalsowantcdaprcss
thatwassimplc and com|ortablc to opcratc and
didnotrcquirc thchandstrcngtho|Hcrculcs. It
should bcsolidlybuilt,with no contcstbctwccn
thc prcss and thcgarlic aboutwhich is going to
brcaknrst. It should bc ablc to hold morc than
oncclovc andshouldcrushthcgarliccomplctcly
through thc sicvc, l caving littlc bchind in thc
hoppcr. I t should handlc unpcclcd clovcswith
casc.Finally,itshouldbcsimplctoclcan,byhand
ordishwashcr,andnotrcquircatoothpicktogct
thclastpicccso|garlicout.
P|CSS| D_ |OD| Cm
1hc morc crcativc garlic gadgcts wcrc notsuc
ccsscs. Jhc Garlic 1wist by Ncx1rcnd, a plastic
| '` | | ' | ' ' | > 1 H A 1 | |
? d
pillboxshapcd dcvicc thatyou twist to chop thc
garlic insidc, could only cut through a pcclcd,
roughlychoppcdclovc.JhcGcniusGarlicCuttcr
, and a similar modcl by Moulincx) and thc
Chct ` Garlic Machinc work likc a pcppcrmill .
Wc |ound tlcm slow to usc and hard to clcan.
Such gimmicks scnt us back to traditional lcvcr
handlcd garlic prcsscs. P wc squcczcd pilcs o|
pungcnt clovcs, wc bcgan a proccss otclimina
tion to dccidc on thc I2 prcsscs in our nnal
lincup, sccchartonpagc2) .
Wc hadbccnsatisncdvithour prcvious|avor
itc prcsscs, thc Zyliss Susi 2 and Zyliss {umbo,
until wc noticcd that thc nonstick coating had
pcclcdo||cachoncinthctcstkitchcn,particularly
aroundthchoppcr,atinyamountotblack liquid
wassomctimcscxtrudcdongwiththcgarli c. Wc
scntadamagcdprcssto an indcpcndcntlaboratory
todctcrmincwhatwashappcningandwhcthcrit
could bc unsa|c , Scc Jhc Casc otthc Iccling
Ircss, "l ch) . P wc waitcd|or thc labrcport,wc
tcstcdthc I 2 nnalists,includingbrandncwZyliss
prcsscs. Sincc all wcrc l abcl cd dishwashcr sa|c,
wc ran thcm through a homc dishwashcr|or I O
cyclcs. ncmodcl,byAmo, |cll apart ahcrj ust
sixcyclcs,lcavingtwo halvcsandamissinghingc
pin. Andtlc nonstickcoating on thc brandncw
Zylissprcsscspcclcd-yctagai n.
Wcdowngradcdmodclsvithrcmovablcparts.
Jhc Cuisinart`shoppcrwas too casy toputback
inthcwrongwayorlosc.Wcrcjcctcddcsignssuch
asthcpotatoriccr-stylcGiant GarlicIrcss,which
o||crcd good lcvcragc witl its long handlcs but
waschcaplycxccutcd,andtlcridiculouslycxpcn
sivc Eva Solo Garlic Ircss with Glass Containcr
, So4. 5 ) , whi ch was di hcult to squcczc and
quicklyj ammcdup.
So whi ch prcss is thc bcst` Kuhn Rkon` s
Epicurcan GarlicIrcss, S34. 5 )wasthctoppcr
|ormcr,producingnnc,unitormgarlicwithmini
mal ct|ort. Madc otsolidlyconstructcd stainlcss
stccl , i thas a luxurious |ccl , wlthcurvcdhandlcs
thatarccom|ortabl ctosqucczcandahoppcruat
smoothlyandautomaticallylihsout|or clcaning
asyouopcnthchandlcs. Howcvcr,atncarlyS35,
it`s costly. At oncthlrd thc pricc,wctound thc
chromcplatcd 1rudcau Garlic Ircss produccd
uni|ormpicccsotgarlic,hada gcncroushoppcr,
andwascasytoclcan. It` sourBcst Buy.
COOK' S L VL L||_| 0dl JCSI 6| IC0C0 V| UCO
www. c ooks i | l u s t r ate d . c o m
OC0| 0UI0CbCC0CS. Ld|| | C||CSSJCSI| 0_
l Mb
LLLL. 777
P H. 77
LLH. 7
VC ICSICU ' 2 _d|| | C|CSSCS,
|CSS| 0_ CC| CU d0U
u0CC| CU C| CvCSdSWC| | dS
nu| I| | CC| CvCS. VC|d0I0C
|CSSCSI0|Cu_0 d 0CnC
U| S0WdS0C| | U I| nCSIC
Cvd| udlC Uu|d0| | | ]. ||CSSCS
d|C| | SICU | 0C|UC|C|CC|
C0CC. bCu|CCSC|IC nCUC|
d0U OCSIOuyd|C| | SICU C0
d_C J2.
H LL. CId| | || CCCu0U
C0| | 0C, | 0CdId| C_S, C|| 0
OCSIC0d|CdSIC|CS.
MPLH PL. LCnCS| I| C0
C|CSSd0U 0d0U| CS.
LLMb bLMLT L
PHL L. VC |CC||CU
|CSSCSI0dI|CUuCCU| 0C,
u0|C|n | CCCSC_d|| | C.
HLbb M
LHLHMPMLL.
VC |CC||CU nCUC| SI0dl
WC|CCdSyIC |CSS, 0d0U| CU
CC| CU, u0CC| CU, d0U nu|
I| | C_d|| | CC| CvCS, d0U|CI
| | II|CWdSIC.
Lb M. VC |CC||CU
UCv|CCS I0dIWC|C CCnC|I
d0| C, SnCCI0 , d0U | 0Iu| I|vC
IC CC|dIC, W| I0 Uu|d0| C
ndIC|| d| Sd0UCC0SI|uCI| C0.
LLLPMU. VCWd0ICU
nCUC| SI0dIC| Cd0CU u CdS
| | y0y 0d0U C|U| S0WdS0C|.
LLMMLMb. JCSIC|S
C0SC|dI| C0S.
JL`J `| |/K \ L``L`
HLLOMM L MUL U
KUD0 HK00 2J |5
Lg CUf0&0 &f Cf0SS
H LL . !J4 73
PLH PL. `\d| 0| CSS S\CC|
HL LOMM L MUL UWl 1H HL 5 L HVP1I OM5
HS 0&f Cf0SS
H LL . ! J4 7'
PLH PL. `\d| 0|CSS S\CC|
fU00&U &f Cf0SS
bL31 bUY
H LL . ! 77
PLH PL. 0|O0C|d\CC 0C\d|
W|\0 0O0S| | |u00C| 0d0C| CS
M0SS0fm0 SI0ff0~0UCD
_UmD0 &f C f0SSWID
b&0I0gf000M&00 0S
H LL . !7 7'
PLH PL. Z| 0C d| | Oy, Sd\|0 | 0| S0CC,
W|\0 |u00C| 0d0C| CS
Zg SSbUS 2 &f Cf0SS
H LL . ! ' 4. 77
PLH PL. 1| u0| 0u0 0dSC W| \0
0O0S\|Ck COd\|0_
Zg SS_UmD0 &f Cf0SS
H LL . ! ' 6 77
PLH PL. 1| u0| 0u0 0dSC W|\0
0O0S\|Ck COd\|0_
MO1 HL LOMML MU L U
L7L bI00 5 b I b I &f C f0SS
H LL . ! 6 77
PLH PL. `\d| 0|CSS S\CC| W|\0 |u00C|
0d0C| CS, |dS\|C C| Cd0| 0_ S| kCS
L7L 000 f gS 2b I b I
&f Cf0SS
H LL . ! 4. '0
PLH PL. 1| CCdS\ Z| 0C, |u00C|
0d0C| CS, |dS\|C C| Cd0| 0_ S| kCS
&0I&f Cf0SS
H LL . ! ' 4
PLH PL. `\d| 0|CSS S\CC|
LU S 0&MH00 &f C f0SS
H LL . ! ' 4 7'
PLH PL. `\CC| W|\0 | dS\|C 0d0C| CS
1|SO SO| C dS \0C |\C d0C Od||C|
d|| | C `| | CC| d0C | |CSS
H LL . ! ' 7 7'
PLH PL. 1| CCdS\ d| u0| 0u0
LV&b0 0bI& 00SSbI00 &f C
f0SSW ID &SSL00I& 00f
H LL . !64 7'

PLH PL. `\d| 0| CSS S\CC|

FL Hr OHMPML L
LLb bL LT L LPHL L .
HLbb L L H LHPLL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
FL Hr OHMPML L
LLb bL LT L LPHL L .
HLbb L L H LHP LL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
LLb bL LT L LPHL L .
HLbb L LH L HP LL .
L L b L .
LL LPL .
LLb bL LT L LPHL L .
HLbb L L H LHP LL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
LLb bL LT L LPHL L .
HLbb L L H LHP LL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
LLb bL LT L LPHL L .
HLbb L L H L HP LL .
L Lb L .
LLLP L .
FL Hr OHMPML L
LLb bL LT L LPHL L .
HLb b L L H LHP LL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
LLb bL LT L LPHL L.
HLbb L L H L HPLL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
LLb bL LT L LPHL L .
HLb b L LH L HP LL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
LLb bL LT L LPHL L.
HLbb L L H LHP LL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
LLb bL LT L LPHL L.
HLb b L L H LHPLL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
LLb bL LT L LPHL L .
HLbb L L H L HP LL .
LL b L .
LLLP L .
) L L 1 c P L L L 5 J 2 0 0
? '
1L51L H5 ` LOM M L M15
1Cdvy, SO| | C _| | C| 0_ 0CC0d0| S0, W| \0 CO0O|\d0|y
Cu|CC 0d0C| CS d0C 0OC| \0d\ ||IS O| CdSy C| Cd0
| 0_. || 0CC | S `vCQ |0C d0C u0CC| CC _d|| | C WdS `0O
|O0| C0. vC|d| | , \CS\C|S 0O\CC, `| \ |CSSCCd0C
C| Cd0CC| | kC d C|Cd0.
1L51LH5 ` LOM ML M15
`O| | C, 0Cdvy |CSS 0dS Ou 0OC| O| C| Cd0| 0_.
`\|d| _0\, Cy| | 0C||Cd| , S0| 0y 0d0C| CS `C| C0 \ CC| C|
CC\|y C_O0O0| C, 0u\ \|C |CSS WdS `Su|||S|0_|y CdSy
\O uSC d0C C| Cd0.
`OOC |CSS W|\0 d `SO| | C CC| |OCuCCC _d|l|C |CCCS
\0d\ WC|C `u0|O|0 0u\ d | | \\|C C0u0j. | |CSS WdS
`vCQ Cd_ \O C| Cd0, W|\0 l | 0d0C| CS d0C `_C0C|OuS
0OC|.
``\u|Cy d0C CdSy \O SQuCCZC, CCC\ O| u0CC| CC
C| OvCS, W0|C0 |CQu| |CC 0O|C 0uSC| C. d|| |C Cd0C Ou\
S| | _0\|y `C0u0j d0C `COd|SC. O0S\|uC\|O0 | S SO| | C
d0C 0Cdvy. ` j u00O 0OC| 0O 0| @C| \0d0 dvC|d_C.
JdC|CC 0O| CS S0dCC | | kC \| 0y u00C| S _dvC ` 0 u_C
y|C| C O `| 0C \C\u|CC _d|| | C \0d\ WdS `SuC|CdSy
\O |CSS. `1O|\|CSS W| \0 u0CC| CC C| OvCS. `O0C
\CS\C|S |CC||CC \0| S | | _0\WC|_0\ 0OCC| , 0u\ 0O0S\|Ck
| 0| S0 0C_d0 \O CC| d|Ou0C \0C 0OC|.
`] u00O |CSS 0C| C Ou| \O |vC C| OvCS, 0d0C| CC
u0CC| CC C| OvCS WC| | , |OCuC| 0_ d `VCQ _OOC 0| 0CC.
| Cd0| 0_ \OO| S\O|CS | 0 \0C 0d0C| C, 0u\ SO0C Ou0C | \
` 0d|C \O |_u|C Ou\. TO0S\|Ck | 0| S0 0C_d0 \O CC|.
1L51LH5 ` LOM M L M15
|| u0_C| COul C0 \ 0C u||y CC|CSSCC \O 0O\\O0 O 0O
C|. ` | 0CI!| C| C0\, CO0| d| 0CC \CS\C|S. 1| | 0d0C| CC
0OCC| C| Cd0CC u CdS||y. JCS\C| CCC0CC \0C S|CvC 0O|CS
\OO |d_C, |OCuC| 0_ `COd|C, `C0u0j |CCCS.
| | u0_C| COu| C0 \ Qu| \C _C\ \O \0C 0O\\O0 O \0C
0OC|, | Cdv| 0_ SO0C _d|| | C u0|OCCSSCC. Ou| C0 \
0d0C| C u0CC| CC C| OvCS. J|dC| \| O0d| l | 0d0C| CC
0OCC| || 0SCC Ou\ CdS| |y. md0C| CS WC|C CO0O|\d0|C
d0C CdSy \O |CSS.
`0dCC | | kC d O\d\O ||CC|, \0| S |CSS S\|uCk \CS\C|S dS
`l | 0Sy. 1OC| |S ` 0u_C 0u\ COu| C |CSS O0|y \0|CC
C| OvCS, 0CCduSC ' u0_C| COu| C0 \ _C\ | 0\O OS| \| O0
W|\0 0O|C. | |CSS WdS `d d| 0 \O C| Cd0.
JCS\C|S C| S| | kCC `\| 0y 0OC|, W0| C 0 |C0OvCS O|
C| Cd0| 0_. ` | C |OSC \0| S |0 d SCCO0C, CO0| d| 0CC O0C,
`d0C | \ S \OO CdSy \O u\ | 0 0dCKd|C. L0CC| CC _d|||C
`Sd\\C|CC d0C SQu| S0CC u \0C S| CCS.
1C| | CO0| C\C|y dd|\ |0 C| S0WdS0C| d\C| S| WdS0CS.
| |CSS ` | C\ d |O\ 0C0| 0C, d0C | CCCS WC|C SO0CW0d\
u0CvC0. `| | CCS `\OO \0| Ck , _d|| | C | OOkCC `C0CWCC u
d0C S\uCk |0 \0C 0| dCCS.
`JOO COO| O| |\S OW0 _OOC d0C `vCQ u0CO0O|\
d0| C. `| uSCC 0y W0O| C 0OCy WC| _0\ \O |CSS | \,
CO0| d| 0CC O0C \CS\C|. ` |\0C\| C Ou\u\ O| CC|CC
C| OvC. L0CC| CC C|OvCS `d| 0OS\ | 0OSS| 0| C.
l l `' l1l l`1o
Y|ck|0 Y|ck
Manybarbccuc ahcionadosarc quick
to point out that a platc o| smoky
briskct isn`t comp|ctc without thc
swcctandsour tang and snappy
crunch o| brcadandbuttcr picklcs.
Acrtoppingourarbccucd riskct
,pagc 7) with scvcn brands, wc
|carncd mat not j ust any crispy cukc
V Jo.Jhoughsomc|ormo|swcct
cncr is csscntial |or prcscrving and
llavoring a brcadand buttcr chip,
TO P P l CKL
We plcked Cas cad lan
|arm 3read &3utter
Chlps tor thelr
cruoch and tang.
manybrandshavc
optcd to rcp|acc
rcal sugar with
chcapcrhighhuc
tosc corn syrup.
Fivc o|uc scvcn
pi ck| c brands
wc samp|cd list
this shcl| stablc
syrup as thcir
sccond ingrcdi
cnt,which lcd to
complaints about
artihcial swcct
ncss" and syr
upy" llavors. u
L tvoritcs-Cascadian Farm and
ubbics-arc madc wiu rca| sugar,
anJ our tastcrs cou|d tcll thc di||cr
cncc. loruccomplctcrcsultso|this
tasting, go to Mcooksillustratcd.
com/august.
. L Y 1 | L | ) | / l J
mk0Ph00 c000
Sincc not many pcoplc cnjoy grat
ing buttcr and rolling dough hrst
thing in thc morning, wc dccidcd
to tcst whcthcr our l ucbcrry
Sconcs , pagc 23) could bc madc
in advancc. Wc mixcd thc Jough,
cut thc sconcs, placcd u:cm on a
parchmcntlincd baking shcct, and
rchigcratcd u:cm ovcrnight bc|orc
putting thcm straight into a prc
hcatcdovcnu:c ncxtmoring. Jhc
rcsultswcrcpractically as good as a
hcshly mixcd batch. Wc |ound that
unbakcd sconcs cou|d actually bc
|rozcn and bakcd |rom thc |rcczcr
without signihcant loss in qua|ity.
Why was this`
Joday, most baki ng powdcr is
doubl c acti ng, " mcani ng that in
ordcrtopcr|ormits| cavcning|unc
ti on, itmustrcactintwostagcs . In
thc hrst stagc, thc baking powdcr
di ssol vcs i n l i qui d and rcacts to
rcl casc carbon dioxidc. In doughs
with | ituc liquid, suchas oursconc
dough, thc amount o|| cavcni ng
at thi s stagc is mini ma| comparcd
with that o|thi nncrcakc and pan
cakc battcrs . Jhc scconJ stagc o|
l cavcni ng rcquircs hcat. Jhc thick
dough in our sconc rccipc cxpcri
cnccs most olits | cavcni ng during
thissccondstagc, i nthcovcn.
Jo bakc our | ucbcrry Sconcs
|rom thc rc|rigcrator, hcatovcn to
425 dcgrccs, thcn|o| |owthcdircc
tions on pagc 23 |rom stcp o. For
|rozcn sconcs, hcat ovcn to 375
dcgrccs,|ol l owdircctions|romstcp
o, andcxtcndcookingtimcto25 to
3O minutcs. Jhis samc makcalcad
mcthod can bc uscd |or any bak
ing powdcr-lcavcncd dough rccipc
, suchascookicorbiscuitJough) .
P thc Lh|m0cj u|0
For lighting coals on an outdoor
gri | l , wc | ikc to usc a chi mncy
startcr, |ut wc`vc noticcd uat uc
timcittakcstoignitcu:ccoalsvarics
dcpcnding on wcathcr conditions.
Wc uscour cycs toknowwhcnthc
coa|s arc rcady to sprcad ovcr thc
gratcs. For a m|l ,o quarts, about
I OO briqucttcs) or thrccquartcrs
ntl| chimncy, thc coals at thc vcry
top shou|d bc just starting to turn
gray-largc patchcs o| black bri
qucttcs at this stagc arc K, as lit
coals atbottomo|thc chimncywill
gct othcrs goi ng in no timc, cvcn
ahcr sprcading. For a chimncy uat
is lcss than urccquartcrs nt| l , such
asyoumightusc |ora smallcrgril l ) ,
makcsurcyouwaituntilal l thccoals
arc cntirclycoatcdin a l aycro|gray
ash bc|orc sprcading thcm-oncc
1 LHM1|M \\ !\ Y\1\^\ !YY1 Y!b^!bb
| ! S 0dCUCU !O d| | OuS. |u!d 0OO 0C|||CS | U !0C |C||_C|!O|, !0CU !0|CW !0C0 | U !0C _d|0d_C d CW UdyS | d!C|, COvC|CU W| !0
0O| U. V0| | CWC vC dUvOCd!CU UO!WdS0| U_ 0C|||CS uU\| | uS! 0CO|C uSC [Ud0 0C|||CS !uM 0uS0ydS!C|!0dU UQ 0C||| CS) , WCvC
U|SCOvC|CU!0d!C| CdUl U_W|\0d 0| | Uv| UC_d|SO| u!l OU dUU Cd|Cu| UQ| U_UCS\|OyS 0dC!C||ddUU 0O| U SO|CS, C!CUU| U_!0C | |C O\0C
0C||| CS. mC|C S0OW!OUO| !.
l . VdS0 0C|||CS| U0OW| W| !0J CuSWd!C|
0|CUW|!0 | Cu W0| !C v|UC_d|. L|d| U |U
CO| dUUC|dUU || USCuUUC||uUU| U_ Wd!C|.
2. ||dCC 0C|||CSl U Sd|dU S| UUC|| | UCUW|!0
J |dyC|SOdC|\OWC| S. o| UO| |J SCC
OUUSO|uU\| | 0C|||CSd|CCO0| C\C|yUQ.
1 . o!O|C 0C||| CS |U dC|\OWC| | | UCU
SCd| d0| CCOU!d| UC|, kCC| U_| | US| |_0!| y
OCU!O d| | OWCCCSS0O| S\u|C !O CSCdC.
C | | | : | | | |' > | k A | l |

sprcad, thc l owcr vo|umc o|bri

qucttcs will not gct hot cnough to
ignitcanyunlitbriqucttcs.
| U LL CH l N N Y
A fu| | chl mney of charcoa| shou|d be
un| oaded when the top coa|s are just start
lng to become gmy around the edges.
S NALL | l R
|or a chl mney that ls |ess than three
quanem tu| | , wlt untll the top coa|s are fu||y
covered ln gmy ash before dumplng them.
tc| Ucf|0t|0g
Whilc tcsting our rccipc |or Gril |
Roastcd CornishGamcHcns,pagc
I 8 ) , wcoccasionallyhitasnagwhcn
uc onlyoncs avai|ablcinucsupcr
markct wcrc hozcn. Wc wantcd a
way to dc|rost our hcns last. ur
rccommcndcd mcthod, thawing
thcm ovcrnight in thc rc|rigcra
tor, can takc 24 to 3o hours-not
vcryconvcnicnti|you`vc gotgucsts
coming |or dinncr in a |cw hours
,or i|you havc multiplc rounds o|
rccipctcstingtoconduct) .
ur attcmpt t o quickly dclrost
thc Cornish hcns in thc microwavc
rcsu| tcd inuc protrudingl cgs and
wings bcing partially cookcd. Wc
|ound thc quickcst way to dc|rost
Cornish hcns without a si gnihcant
loss inqualityis tosubmcrgc ucm
, unwrappcd) in a buckct o| cold
tapwatcr,changingthcwatcrcvcry
I 5 minutcs. Acr onc hour, pokc
thickcst part o| thc brcast wiu a
thinskcwcrtochcckitmcat ismlly
thawcJ. I|intcriorstill |ccls|rozcn,
changc thc watcr and chcck again
at I O minutc intcrvals . Four gib
l ct|rcc I !: pound hcns wi|l takc
o
Z
>
C
O

Z
J
C
Z
C

CS K| CDCD | S. bCC| b3|DCCu| D_

CcaxcgcccssIecIesu`Isfc~acccs cg~eIcdas cexacIascacecu cgcac ce
ic_,scwe`vepuIIcgeIesc~e casc Ips cased cccu,ea~cfexpe ecce.
HAK S U R TO . . .
Sh| e| d gr| | | from w|nd as much as
poss| b| e.
Neasure and/ or count out br| quettes.
Soak wood chunks or ch| ps |n water
before cook|ng.
8ank coa|s as steep|y as poss| b| e when
barbecu| ng |arge cuts.
Pos|t|on | i d vents d| rect|y above meat,
not f|re.
Keep | | d on as much as poss| b| e. (No
peek|ng' )
Use a barbecue thermometer.
bctwccn oncand I hourstomlly
dclrost. Extcnd thc thawing timc
by hallan hour ilthc hcns comc
withgiblctsinthc cavity.
|| 1|
Whcn cooking thc pattics lor our
GrcckStylc Lamb Iita Sandwichcs
,pagc I 3) , wc lound that with I 2
small pattics all lrying at oncc in
a largc pan, it was hard to kccp
track ol whcn cach patty nccdcd
to bc llippcd or rcmovcd. Laying
thc mcat down in an organizcd
spiral-workingclockwi sclromthc
handlc and toward thc ccntcr ol
thc pan-madc it a simplc mattcr
ol Uipping thc mcat in thc samc
ordcrthatitwcntinto thcpan.
Jhi s samc tcchni quc can bc
applicd any timcyounccd to kccp
trackola largc numbcrolitcms in
apan,lrom scaringscallopsto lry
ingmcatballs. It`sal sohclpmlwhcn
PAN HANAC H NT
DgDg5H3||tEH5 35m| 3OEO
w|||hc| Qj0u kcE tmLk0whED t0| | Q3Dd
fEH0vEE3Lh ELE.
TH | S L NS U KLS. . .
5H0KEmygf||aGfE0UO5aI
fOEf tEHEmIUfE.
fE15L055IEI|jL0NELI51ZEaG
IEHEmtU.
5H0KE 55|0w|jfE|Ea5EGOVEf|O@
EfOG0tHE.
f0EfGLILOOKg0jKEEQ1g
HEaIa5afa5055|EfOHfE.
5H0KEdmw5 fOEHaLO55HEaI.
f||5tEOa| IEHEmIU5W
LO55IEt.
T0UK0wj0Uf1fE 5IOOOIOtG1@
0UI wtOUI |Hg |G.
managingagrillml l olmcatorvcg
ctablcs , lor rcctangular grills,work
in cvcn rows, lrom l chto rightand
backtolront) .
C|eanerCanta|oupc
Whilc rcscarching vari ous lrcsh
lruits lor our Summcr Fruit Salads
, pagc 2I),wc camcacrossasurpris
ing lact. Ccrtain strains ol salmo
nclla can gct into thc nooks and
crannicsolcantaloupcs`porousskin
whil c thcy arc growi ng in thc hcld.
ncc thcrc, thcy producc bactc
rialpolymcrbiohlms-impcrmcablc
carbohydratc bascd shcaths that
protcct thc bactcria lrom cvcn thc
most aggrcssivc clcaning attcmpts.
ur tcsts showcd thatcvcn ascrub
downinanti bactcrialsoapwascom
plctclyincllcctivci nrcmovingthcsc
dangcrous bactcri a, which rcsidc
only on thc surlacc olthc mclons.
Jo minimizc thc risk olsalmonclla
inlcction, lood salcty cxpcrts sug
gcstthclollowing.
@ Lh005EL|Ea,U0fU5EG,U0|EH5EG
HE|05aG5WjawjfOH LUI
HE|05.
@ O5Ea5aQKEIOLUIHE|O5
3du| | kEL3 u5h IE fGIOtE
E5h,L3u5gL0WHaIO.
@ fHawjIEfG0EOfEEaI1@ 0f
5I0fg,aG 5I0fEajHagE5
thEfgEmI0fw1IWOOUNO
LUItg.
@5hj0ufLuOg 0OaOwI OI,5OaQ
watEfaHEfLUIIgHE|O5.
@ MaKE5u j0u KEELUIHE|OwE||
f|gEmtEd j0u |aO Ogg I
0D3 LL.
'c L ' | c O | DP1c
18| ~bQl6 b0u W|\0 |0|K 0| b0|| 0
ReadeswacIedIcsccw f Ie,ccu` dsucsIIuIe~eaIc s ~pfcIec csec c
cu1 ~b@0 LDCK00b0Ug gacuaq/ecuaq2007) .Tc ~aseI sscup, we
cfusea cccccuI~ ` c csec ccI casewI cIecseTa f`avc. ` e~ccgss,
sa` ` cIs, acd fs sauce. T c sI pscfc csec c|easIae s ~~eed c Ie ccI
fcafew~ cuIes cefce se cg. T c`ys` ced pc\ acd ceefIecde' c c, aswe` `
as pee` edacddeve ced s ~p, cccsed usIas qucs'yas c c\ec ceasI c I s
scup. Hcweve,wedcc Iecc~~ecdus cgceef,as Id dc' Ipa we` ` wIIef s
sauce. TesweeIc c cesscfs ~pIasIedgeaI,acda` v cgeaccce` ecgIwse
ecsued c Ieszed p ecesIaIcccsed evec`y.Tesupp` eIexIue acd ~ ` df`avc
cfpcsIecde` c c~ase IageaIsucsIIuIeaswe` ` . ccufeeec pesfcTa
Jq` eJcupw IJ ~pacdTa Jq`eJcupw Ics,gcIcw . cccss ` ` usIIed.
cc~/augusI.
P0|0CC80 L0| CK60 |685\5 W|\0 Ll |v65 800 L60O0
cscf cuP0f0CC0 LD CK00 WID V0S 00Lm00 ec pe Nay/j uce
200) -w c ca` ` s fc a wc` e c csec cuI up cIc p eces-wacIed Ic \ccw
Ie cesI way Ic ~ase I us cg ccce` ess, ss c` ess c csec ceasI. Te c g ca`
ec pewasdes gcedIccccswIeacdda\~eaI-w ccccsaIdheecIIes-
s ~u` Iacecus`y. Us cga``wIe~eaIs ~p` fesIecg ca` Iecc quea cI, Icug
Ie Iecde~eaI equ esgecI` eIeaI~ecI. I, Ic pevecI Ie ceasIs fc~
deve` cp cga Icug exIec, we ` gI`y

cwc Ie~fca ccup` ecf~ cuIespe

s de. Tec, wec Icc~esIcf c s cgIe~cIesauce-c csecccIsp sedwI
sp ces, ` e~cczesI,cc ccs, ga|` c, c ` acIc,cacIs,acdc` ves- I` scesIIc pcpup
Iec c\ecccIe` aecacIp ecesacdf` pIeceasIsa`fayIcugccc\ cg.
T sIecc quepc~cIesevecccc\ cgacdpevecIsIe~eaIf|c~Ium cgsIcg.
ccufeeec pefcNccccac C csec BeasIswI O` vesacd |e~cc, gcIc
w . cccss ` ` usIIed. cc~/augusI.
Ol u606|Q T685\60 Y8Rl 65
Ouec pefcT0SI00 0S Nac/ Ap ` 200+) see~ed dea` fca c` ue
ceqva|aI cc. AIf Ig` acce, Iappeaedaseaasfc` d cgaccup` eacdfu` scf
fes c` uecees cIc Ie caIIe usIcefceccc\ cg. BuIIe c` ueceescused
cs deIewaf`e cc, causcgIe u cesIcseepfc~Iewah`esacd cumccIe
cI cc. Us cgfczeccu` IvaIedceeswc\edfa `ywe` ` , asdd us cgfesw ` d
c` uece es, w cae~uc s~a` ` eIaccu` IvaIed ce es. BuIwegcIIe cesI
esu` Isfc~fczecw ` dc` ueceesIaIweccaIedwIf` cucefcefc` d cgIe~
cIcIecaIIe.Tefczec ceessIa, cIacIceIIeafIec` cs cgIe` d, acd Ie
f` cue` ps pevecIIe u cesfc~ c` eed cg. c cufee ec pe fc B` ueceq
YeasIedWaf` es. gcIcw . cccss ` ` usIIed. cc~/augusI.
Cc~p ` edcyCa|' esKe`sey
8 l C 8 RRl S S HALL 8 RRl S
1oavo|owmesw|taeemte|eeeemes[1EH] ,UDZEw|G01UE0EOE5[fgI]
aaocoatmemw|ta8oerN@ImtoO|01@UEH IOUE0aIIEf.
l ILL mVL [LLblL accuIa ec pe, `eI us \ccw. Jecdycu cqu q,
ca~e, addess, acd da,I ~e Ie` epcce cu~ce Ic Rec pe UpdaIe, Cccs' s
` ` ` usIIed, . O. Bcx+70S8J, Bccs` ce, NA02++7, cwIeIc |ec peupdaIe
a~ecasIesIsIcec. cc~.
! | | Y c A | ' C | ' > | . l l /
|
I l l l ^I l1 'l | l l
M LY L L L! U||ll U|t0 UH0|
Kcplcnishingcoalsisamust|ormanyslowcookcd
barbccuc rccipcs, but dcal ing with a bl azi ng
hotgrill canbc a Jiccytask.Asan altcrnativc to
graspingthcgratc with a mitt,thcarrrothcrs
Company o||crs its Grill Grabbcr Gratc Lihcr
, S6. ) . Itlookslikcaskillcthandlcandmcasurcs
just undcr I O inchcs |rom polypropylcnc grip
to stainlcss stccl tip. Its curvcd, notchcd prongs
sccurclyhookcd undcrthc bars o|thc gratcand
stcaJily hclJitswcight, it cansupportup to hvc
pounds)aswc pourcdmorc coals into thckcttl c.
Italsoworksindoorsasanovcnrackpullcr.
Protect your hands (and your food) w|th
the Cr| | | Crabber Crate Ufter.
M LY L L L! M0|O0 UOggl0
Choppi ng and di ci ng our way through 3O
poundso| onionspcrwccki nthc tcstkitchcn,
wc`rc always i ntcrcstcd in ncw mcthods o|cyc
Jclcnsc. And whi|c thcy ccrtainl y look a bi t
goo[,thcK. S. \. .I ntcrnationalni onGogglcs
, S I . ) Johclpmaintain|ocusonthconions-
ycll ow, ViJalia, rcd, or othcrwisc-rathcr than
thctissucbox.Wcloundthat
N O N O R TARS
R. SV. P. l nternat|ona| On| on
Cogg|es protect your eyes
when you' re chopp| ng on| ons.
thcyblockirritat
ing lumcs bcttcr
than sung| asscs,
and t hc loa m
paddi ng ar ound
t hc anti |og l cns cs
i s a morc com|or t
ablcaltcrnativct oswim
goggl cs. Avai l abl c in
whi tc or bl ack wi th
l imcgrccntrim.
L Q L l P L M L L ! Ox U|t0|
Shortlyahcrwcproclaimcdt|cCuisiproAccutcc
ox Gratcr our |avoritc, scvcral rcadcrs a|crtcd
ustHatthctoo|actuallybrokcapartinthcirdish
washcrs.AcalltoCuisiprorcvcalcdthatthcy,too,
havcrcccivcda|cwcomplaints.Jhccompanywill
rcplaccanyboxgratcrsdamagcdbydishwashcrs.
, Visit V . cuisipro. com |or morc in|ormation
orcall 3O2 32o48O2. ) I|youownthc Cuisipro
gratcr,t|:ccompanysuggcstswashingitbyhand.
I|you`rc in thc markct to buya box gratcr, wc
now rccommcnd thc X Good Grips ox
Gratcr S I 4. ) . JhisgratcrissharpanJslimand
comcswith a hanJycontaincrmarkcd with cup
mcasurcmcntsthatsnapsontothcbottom.
L Y l | | Z ` L L 1 | | L | ^ Z l <
M LY L L L! L|um0 Ox
Wc lovc tcaringinto rustic boulcs and bagucttcs,
but Joing so lcavcs a crumby mcss on thc cut
tingboarJ,countcrtop,ortablc. Jcmptcdbyt|:c
artclt Crumb ox , S27. 5 ) , a shocboxsizcd
hardwoodboxwitl:arcmovablcwooJcngratcon
top,wcplaccdacrustyloa|ol Italianbrcadonthc
gratc andbcganslicing. AspromiscJ, tl:ccrumbs
lcllthroughandcollcctcd intlcbottom|or casy
disposal .What`smorc,thc handsomcgratcscrvcs
as both a cooling sur|acc |or ovcn lrcsh loavcs
andascrvingplattcr

lorbrcadatthc
tablc.

ASY AS
S Ll C D 8 RAD
The 8arte|t Crumb 8ox funct|ons as
both a breads| | c| ng surface and a crumb
co| | ect|on box.
L Q L l P L M Lb l M ! 10l0tO U||ll
Wclikcdthc iJca olgrillingshrimporbcc|tablc
sidc,j ustlikcin rcstaurants, sowc dccidcdto tcst
inJoorgril l s. AhcrdismissingmoJclsthatrcquircd
hardtohnJ londuc |ucl or dcnaturcd alcohol,
wc purchascd six brands in two styl cs. cl cctric
and tl:osc JcsigncJ to sit on a stovctop burcr.
Jhc stovctop modcls didn` tgct hot cnough and
arc not rccommcnJcd. Among tl:c clcctric vcr
sions, thc Sanyo Smokclcss Elcctric InJoor Grill
, S3. 5 ) was our lavoritc. It most closcly mim
ickcd tl:c hcat o|an outJoor grill and produccd
thc |castsmokc, Jucto a basinyou mustnllwith
watcrbclorccooking.Forcomplctctcstingrcsults,
gotoVcooksi|lustratcJ. com/august.
8 ST l N DOOR C R l LL
Of the s|x mode| s tesIed, on|y the Sanyo Smoke| ess | ectr|c
l ndoor Cr| | | comb| ned a |arge capac|ty w|th easy c| eanup
and m| n| ma| smoke
L Q L l P L M L L ! 1|g0t Uutch Mz00
In thc {anuary /Fcbruary 2OO7 issuc, wc tcstcd
incxpcnsivc Dutch ovcns against our priccy |a
voritcs,thc Lc Crcusct7|+ QuartKoundFrcnch
vcn , S22 . 5 ) and thc Al l Cl ad Stai nl css
8 QuartStockpot, S257. 5 ) . Wcwcrcimprcsscd
byt|csignihcantlycHcapcrKounJEnamclcdCast
Iron Casscrolcwit|: LiJ byChclmatc |or Jargct
, S3. ) . {ust asourarticlcwaspublishcd,how
cvcr,Jargct`swcbsitcsoldouto|thistcstkitchcn
| |

| | | | 1 H 1 | |
?
cstuy.Jargctassurcdust|:atthccasscrolcwill
bc availablc i nstorcs t|:rough 2OO7. Wc suggcst
contacting Gucst Scrviccs at a Jargct storc anJ
givingt|cmthcDICInumbcr, O7O/O2/O62) ,
sothcycantcl l youili t` sinstock.
50ufCCS
J06C| | CW| 0_d|6 SCu |C6SC|| I60S|6CC0060U6U | 0
I0| S | SSu6. ||| C6SW6|6 Cu||60IdI|6SSI| 06d0UUC 0CI
| 0C| uU6S0| | 0_. LC0IdCICC0d0| 6SIC CC0| |0 | 0C|0d
I| C0 C|v| S| IWWW. CCCKS| | | uSI|dI6U. CC0C|u UdI6S.
Bgc d.1MLHMOMLLH
P Po| der l 2453 Dua| Oven/Neat Termometer. S l 0,
|tem #80002XQHS, PmB2o. com.
Bgc V. UHl LLHO1 55LHl L5
P 88Q Ca| ore 3 l ' De| uxe Sta| n| ess Stee| Rot|sser| e.
S l 49. 99, |tem #2879 l 2, bBfcqucS UBI ofc
[dUU 1b Z JUdb , w . qgBI ofc. com) .
P Weber 9890 Cas 8arbecue Rot|sser| e. S79. 99,
|tem #800004RN8, PmB2o. com.
P Weber 2290 2 2 '/' Kett|e Rot|sser| e. S l l 9. 99,
|tem #800004VN | , PmB2o. com.
Bgc Z J . Ml Ml Orr5L5P1UL
P W||ton Ang|ed Comfort Cr|p 8" Spatu| a. S4. 49, |tem#
40960 l 2, W|to [dUU1V4 Jd,w .wIto. com) .
Bgc Z. 1LP5
P N| ghq Leaf Organ| c ng| | sh 8reakfast Tea. S7. 95 for
4 ounces, |tem # | 89349, MgQUBf1cB [d11 Vd
b J Z J , w . mgQIcBf. com) .
P Harney &Sons ng| | sh 8reakfast Tea. S l 9 per pound,
MBfc &5oS[ddd 4Z1 J Vd, w . BOc.com) .
gc ZV. UPHLlL HL55L5
P Kuhn R|kon p| curean Car||c Press. S 34. 9 5, |tem
# l 89349, LooKg.com [dUU J dd U,
w . cooK g.com) .
P Trudeau Car| | c Press. S l l . 99, |tem
#80006280N, Pm2o. com.
Bgc J Z . UHl LLUH1L LlLH
P 8arr 8rothers Company Cr| | l Crabber Crate Ufter.
S6. 99, bb1ooIS[dUU JU d J ,
w . qtooIS. com) .
Bgc J Z . OMl OMUOUULL5
P R. SVP. l nternat| ona| On| on Co@les. S | 9. 99, |tem
# bM4Q, PmB2o. com.
Bgc J Z . bO7UH1LH
P OXO Cood Cr| ps 8ox Crater. S l 4. 99, |tem
#80007VO0CQ, PmB2o. com.
Bgc J Z . LHUMbbO7
P 8arte| t Crumb 8ox. S 27. 95 , |tem # | 00442,
LooKg. com.
Bgc J Z . 1PbLLOUHl LL
P Sanyo Smoke| ess | ectr|c l ndoor Cr| | | . S 3 9. 95 , |tem
#3 | 5062, LooKg.com.
Bgc J Z . UU1LM OVLM
P Round name| ed Cast l ron Cassero|e w|th Ud by
Chefmate for Target. S 39. 99, |tem #070/02/0962,
1BfgctStofcS;ccw .tBfgct.comfofStofc|ocBtof.
l ^ I `
) ul, c /ugu-| ?||/
LL L 3
Pl M l b MLb
O|0CCuCd OCCO||5kC! 1
C0 L5 L|| | | d
L|CCko]| C Ln0 ||!o0dW| ChC5 |J
L|| | | CdLh| CkC0 O|C5!5
Lh| C!| C LnC | |
LCnC0 ||5| Cy | |
C0L5L|| | | | |
L|0gC1||gC0 ||
L|| | | C5!Cd LC|0| 5MLnCMC05 | d
C0L5L|| | | | V
|5! L|C5C |b
bLb M b l L l b MLb
L|| | | Cd |C!!CC5W|!h L|| | C0d C5CnQV
C0 L5L|| | | V
oh|| no| d5
o| Cy, W|!hLC|0 0dLM| C!| C 2
W| !hPvCCdC0dL|0gC 2
W| !hC5!Cd Cd|CC|0dO5| | 2
W| !hV50| 0d|| Ck| CdL| 0gC|2
ounnC|||u| !o| d5
L0!| CuC, || un5, 0dLMC|||C5W|!M
"| 0!0dV0| | | 2 |
MC0CydCW, "0gC, 0d 50C|||C5W| !h
LnC0dL| 0gC|2 |
|CC!|| 0C5, L|C5, 0d
O| uC0C|||C5W| !ML|0gC0d
L|dnCn 2 |
|CChC5, O| Ck0C||| C5, 0do!|W0C|||C5
W| !M O5| | 0d |CC|2 |
bLLL
LH HL L K~ bTLL LP P bPLV LL b .
12U|k|ouCC | J
L b b L b M b LLM Lb
O| uC0C||yoCC0C52J
u5!|C|| unLkC 2b
LLL K 3 L VL H | JC5I 6| IC0C0V| UCO5 www. COOKS| | | u S\|3\60. COm
Pl M l b ML b
Barbecued Beef Brisket i n 6 0 Seconds
1| 5C|0C!!C|0|0CCu| 0g
MCWdC| 0|0CCuC0||5kC!C0 g5g|| | | :
Vh!| 55nCkC|| 0g'
CreekSty|e Lmb Pita Sandwi ches with
Tzauiki Sauce i n 60 Seconds
Vh!|5!hC0C5!Wy!Cn| 0CCC|Cg0C:
L0| 5k| !MC5| !| 0g0dd|| 0| 0g5!C5:
Cri | | ed Lmon Pars|ey Chi cken Breasts
in 60 Seconds
Vh!dCC5| !nC0!C5| |CCC0!hC0| 5:
Cri | | Roasted Corni sh Came Hens in
60 Seconds
VM! 5!MCC5|C5!Wy!C0u!!C||y
gnChC0:
MCWdC| 5kCWC|gnChC0:
Psta Caprese i n 60 Seconds
Vh!hC05|| dC0 !|CC2Cny
nC22|C| | :
Vh!5hCu| d| | CCkC|| 0CC| 0dC|:
bLb M b l L l b MLb
Cri | | ed Potatoes with Car| i c and
Rosemary i n 60 Seconds
Shri mp Sa| ad i n 60 Seconds
VM!k| 0dC5M|| n5MCu| d | 0uy:
VM! 5!MCC5| C5!Wy!C CC| 0ddCvC| 0
5M|| n:
Summer |rui t Sa| ad
O5| Ck0|C5k| | | 5
MCW5hCu| d| !kCC|CCnyk0|vC5:
Vh! 5!MC0C5!Wy!C CC| 0d ChC
nC| C0:
VM! 5!MC C5| C5!Wy!C Cu! n0gC
Vh! 5!hC||gM!Wy!C2C5!C| !|u5:
L b b L b M b LLML b
B| ueberry Scones i n 6 0 Seconds
LC | |C| |y0CCd 0C0CM5C|C|
VhC0M5nydCugM0CC0 k0CdCd
C0CugM:
Vh!MC05|| u5C0u!!C|!h!| 50 !
CC| d:
Vh! 5!MC0C5!Wy!Cg|!C|C2C0
0u!!C|:
Rustic P| um Cake in 60 Seconds
VM! 5!MC0C5!Wy!CnC5u|C| Cu|:
bl Mb M Lbl M b
OCM| 0d!hCoCC0C5. 1C15!| 0g
OCh| 0d!MCbCC0C5. L|| | C||C55C5!| 0g
P|LH|L` >LK|MLM
|u0| | C \6| 6V|S| O S mOS\ Ou| 3| COOK| _ ShOw
O| 0!0Cn| | | | O05O0OnCCOOK5W0OWIC0 Ou| 50OW,
.mrrtrn: 1r:tttrhru, O0 u0| | C!C| Cv| 5| O0CvC|yWCCk.
|O|nO|C | 0O|nI| O0, | 0C| uU| 0g |CC| C50U |Og|n!| nC5,
v| 5| !W . nC|| C5!C5!K|!C0C0. COn.
IDCCUCO CC I SKCI, 1 bURRCI IU I b OS, Z |
LI CO OIIOCS, V
LI CO LDCKCD ICSIS, | UCDCIIy bCODCS, Z J
HUSIC U R LKC, Z b SI LQICSC, | b
| |1CH A||1. CAH L 1HLMbLA1, b11L| IC . MAH l L | | HA| I
, ---

- -

- -