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The Forever Rechargeable VARIABLE Super Capacitor Battery !!!

EngineeringShock (/member/EngineeringShock/) Download (/id/The-Forever-Rechargeable-VARIABLE-Super-Capacitor-/?download=pdf) (/id/The-Forever-Rechargeable-VARIABLE-Super-Capacitor-/) 4 Steps


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About This Instructable 87,805 views 178 favorites

EngineeringShock (/member/EngineeringShock/) + More! (


(/member/EngineeringShock/) Follow 232 Bio: Hi there! My name is Patrick, and I am an electronics engineering technician who works full time as a lab tech, and part time as an electronics engineer/salesman. I own an ebay store, and two more (/member/EngineeringShock/) More by EngineeringShock


Hi there! Welcome to my ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE, FOREVER RECHARGEABLE SUPER CAPACITOR BATTERY PACK INSTRUCTABLE!!! What's all the Hubbub, bub? This circuit acts as a never-dying, forever rechargeable battery. If treated properly and with respect, it will live longer than you do! That's right! You will die before this variable battery does! Eerie, eh? The circuit employs about $90 worth of circuitry, but it sure beats buying batteries. I use this circuit every single day when I get home from work to listen to music. Depending on your input charging method (DC, solar, etc), charging can take only minutes. With this, I can listen to music out of my computer speakers at high volume for about two hours before having to recharge. Use it to charge your cell phone. Use it to power your radio! Use it as a portable power supply! Wire it up to a flash light, or use it to power your halloween costume! The possiblities are endless! I am selling this in kit form! See the last page of this instructable for details. YOU VARY THE OUTPUT VOLTAGE! Need 3v? You got it! Need 9v? You got it!! Need 12V? You got it!!!



(/id/Laser-Trip-WireSecurity-System-with-Combination-L) Tags:
super (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ordsuper/) capacitor (/tag/type-id/categorytechnology/keyw ord-capacitor/) capacitors (/tag/type-id/categorytechnology/keyw ord-capacitors/) ultra (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ordultra/)

Need 34V??? You got it!!!!

charge (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ordcharge/) battery (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ordbattery/) solar (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ordsolar/) green (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ordgreen/) energy super capacitor super capacitor (/tag/typeid/category-technology/keyw ord-energy super capacitor super capacitor/)

Double-Layer Capacitors (/id/Double-LayerCapacitors/)

HOW DOES IT WORK? The circuit uses SUPER CAPACITORS, as opposed to batteries. Super capacitors are like other capacitors, only they have enormous power storage capabilities. Capacitors have two storage variables: Maximum charging voltage and capacitance (Measured in Farads). Capacitance is a measure of how much energy can be stored in a capacitor. A typical power supply capacitor or audio coupling capacitor would have a capacitance of around 0.0001 farads, which is relatively large. A super capacitor normally has a capacitance of between 1 to 3000 farads, which make them good substitutes for batteries! We are going to safely charge 2x 400 farad capacitors in series up to 5.4VDC, and feed that voltage through a DC-DC booster circuit. We are also going to employ a digital voltage display that will be able to read both the charge on the capacitor bank, as well as the voltage at the output of the DC-DC booster. Let's go over SOME of the pros and cons of super capacitors, shall we? PROS OF THE SUPER CAP: 1) As long as you don't charge them at a voltage higher than they are rated for, or reverse charge polarity, super capacitors can have charge/discharge cycles of 500,000-1,000,000, or more! 2) If you charge a battery and leave it in the charger, you can deplete battery memory, and it will eventually die. The super capacitor will STOP accepting any energy once it is full. 3) The internal ESR (Internal resistance) is extremely small in a super capacitor. We're talking 0.01 Ohms or less. A typical battery has an internal ESR or 0.02 Ohms - 0.2 Ohms. Why does this matter? If means that you can potentially charge a super capacitor in seconds, providing you have some heavy duty power supplies. Batteries take longer to charge, and cannot discharge as quickly. 4) Batteries have a shelf life. If left fully charged on a shelf for years, you will pick it up one day and find it dead. Not so with the super cap! 5) Super capacitors give off no emissions, while all batteries give off some form of gas. You can't keep your car battery in your house, but you can keep your super capacitor bank in your house =) 6) If you cause a direct short along your super capacitors, they will not blow up or be harmed. They are made to do just that. However, immense heat will be created along the short, as enormous amounts of current will be very quickly dissipated. This is also a con, because the user can be burned if not careful. 7) They are environmentally safe. 8) There are so many pros and so few cons, but we don't have time to go over them all =)

by ColorBomb (/member/ColorBomb/)

Let's learn about Super Capacitors! (A Practical Guide To Super Capacitors) (/id/Letslearn-about-SuperMake your own Super Capacitor Flashlight (/id/Make-your-ownSuper-CapacitorFlashlight/) How to charge a super capacitor using a hand crank dynamo (/id/How-tocharge-a-super-capacitorusing-a-hand-crank/) Uninterruptible Solar Power Supply (/id/Uninterruptible-SolarPower-Supply/)
by ColorBomb

See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)

CONS OF THE SUPER CAP: 1) If you made a super capacitor big enough to replace your car battery, it would likely be 10 times the size. Super capacitors have lots of energy storage, but need to be banked in series/parallel to achieve battery-like storage. 2) super capacitors normally have very low max voltage ratings, which means that you have to be very careful not to over charge them. As well, what are you going to do with a 2.5v capacitor? You have to place a bunch in series to keep doubling the voltage. However, when you add capacitors in series, you lose capacitance. The formula for series and parallel banking will be in the final step, so if you have time, have a look =) 3) While you need not worry about shocking yourself, as super capacitors offer so little voltage, you can burn yourself if you create a direct short on a fully charged super capacitor or bank of capacitors. 4) Super capacitors are more expensive than batteries. THIS INSTRUCTABLE WILL BE BROKEN DOWN INTO 4 PARTS: 1) The Charging Circuit 2) The Capacitor Bank and the DC-DC Booster 3) The Digital Voltage Display 4) The Parts, the Math and the Conclusions! If you are interested, most of these parts can be found in my ebay store, which can be found here: ( Check Out My Improved 1.5A 18 Watt Charger!



THE CHARGING CIRCUIT: Let's go through this in steps. It is actually very simple but you have to follow along closely, especially as we go into the step on the following page. We start at TERMINAL BLOCK#1 and will continue clockwise around the circuit! 1) This is where you have options. We need a DC source of anywhere between 5VDC-20VDC for our charge. I use a 11VDC@1A power supply, but I occasionally use a set of mini solar panels that I have in my window. The choice is yours. Just make sure that when you plug in your DC source, you are making sure that you have the correct DC polarity for DC+ and ground (DC-). 2) We have a 0.1uf capacitor and a 100uf capacitor in parallel with the input DC line. We only really need these because this line is for the charging of the capacitor bank, but we will be using this input line to power our digital display and we want to make sure that this DC line is smooth and without extra noise. The 0.1uf capacitor takes care of high frequency noise, or rather, lessens it (Decoupling capacitor). The 100uf capacitor acts to smooth the input DC. These two capacitors are not really necessary but they are preferred. 3) The LM317 is a variable DC-DC power supply. Using a 240 Ohm resistor in parallel with the VOUT and the ADJ line, and a 5k ohm variable resistor from the ADJ line and ground, we can vary the charge voltage from the charge voltage itself, down to 1.25v. For instance, if we have 8v at the input, we can vary the output anywhere between 8v down to 1.25v. It is EXTREMELY important that your LM317 is properly heat sinked, as it will get HOT. The LM317 kit can be found here: ( 4) Varying the current to the super capacitor bank is the name of the game. This is where you have the opportunity to gamble. Since the super capacitors will literally suck up all the energy it is given until full (With >0.01 Ohm ESR), we have to limit the current from the supply, or else we're going to completely destroy our LM317 circuit. As you can see, we have two 2.2 Ohm, 5W power resistors, a jumper, and a SPST (Single Pull Single Throw) switch. If the switch is off (Recommended), and the jumper is not attached, then the charge limitation is 2.2 Ohms. Wait a minute! That is too small of a current limiter! You're still going to hurt your LM317!!! Not the case! If properly heat sinked, the LM317 will get hot but it will withstand the stress if you have this 2 Ohm load. The output voltage will

drop down but you will see it come back up as the capacitor starts to charge. We have three charge options here. If you have a charge of 4v or higher, make sure that you have the jumper off, and the switch off. A) Charge limited by 2.2 Ohms when JUMPER=OFF/ SPST=OFF B) Charge limited by roughly 1.1 Ohms when JUMPER=ON/SPST=OFF When you add the jumper, you place the two 2.2 Ohm resistors in parallel with one another, bringing the parallel resistance down to half. Please note that these resistors get hot. C) Charge limited by the line resistance and capacitor ESR only when JUMPER=ON or OFF/SPST=ON If the SPST is switched on, it doesn't matter how the resistor jumper is configured. The only resistance between the output of the LM317 and the capacitor banks is the line (trace) resistance, and the ESR of the capacitors (Yet to be seen). This is where you have to have cohones! Again, your LM317 can handle this if properly heat sinked (Heat sink included in kit), as the output voltage will drop down to the cap voltage and start to charge. However, this should only be used for charges of 1.5v or less. If you are charging the bank from 0v to 5.4 v, it will charge relatively quickly using the 2.2 Ohm charge option. However, around 3v of charge, it will start to slow down. At this point, take the jumper off to limit the current to 1.1 Ohm. At around 4.5v, you will notice that the charge will slow down again. Flick the switch to charge the remaining 900mv, and you will have no problems. Truth be told, I've charged from 2v to 5.4v with the switch on, but it is NOT good practice, and I was risking my LM317. 5) We have two IN4001 diodes in series with the charge line. These are not used for any type of rectification, but rather to allow DC charge to enter the capacitor bank, but not allow for any DC to travel backwards through the circuit after the capacitor bank is charged. If we didn't have these diodes here, follow the circuit backwards. Regardless of whether the jumper is on or off, or whether the SPST is on or off, there is a path back to the LM317, and there is a 240 Ohm resistor in a series path with a 5k potentiometer and ground. If we stopped charging (without the diodes), the charge on the caps would leak back through the circuit to ground, making our batteries terribly inefficient. There are two diodes in parallel to share the current along the line. If you have 1N4007s, or any 1N400X diodes, they will work just as well if not better. There are factors such as thermal runaway that we could spend time worrying about with these diodes in parallel, but the charge time from start to finish for this circuit is literally 10 minutes or less , so we're not going to worry about that at all. 6) The jumper (JUMPER#2) like a lot of this circuit is a custom option. If you are not going to watch the digital display (Seen later) as your super capacitor bank charges, then you are going to want to follow this step. When you build this charge circuit, probe the output of the diodes (TEST POINT) with reference to ground using your multimeter. There will be a voltage drop along the diodes, so we need to make sure that we measure here, and not at the anode end of the diode. Since we have a 5.4v MAX capacitor bank, we DO NOT want to have a charge higher than 5.4v. Check the voltage here using the 5k potentiometer at the LM317. Turn the potentiometer until you see a voltage of 5.2v-5.4v, then consider using a bit of hot glue to set the pot to steady it. You may think, why use the pot, and not a fixed resistor? You can, by all means, but you may want to change the charge voltage down the road. Now, the jumper is here because on the other side of the jumper lies the capacitor bank. If you test the voltage here when you have the jumper on, you will read the voltage at the capacitor bank, not the voltage that it will be charging to. You only take the jumper off when you want to take a charged reading. Leave it on at all other times.

Step 2: The Capacitor Bank, and DPST Switch, and the Booster Circuit


THE CAPACITOR BANK: As you can see, we have the capacitor bank circuit here on the left hand side of the below schematic. It is comprised of 2x 400 farad 2.7v super capacitors, found here: ( When connected in series, these capacitors will form a bank value of 200 farads at 5.4v. This means that we have doubled our maximum charge voltage (2.7v *2 = 5.4v), and halved our capacitance from 400 farads down to 200 farads. If you want to learn more about series/parallel capacitor theory, go to the final page of this instructable. We need approximately 3.4v to power our DC-DC booster circuit. This means that our booster circuit will work between the charged range of 3.4v to 5.4v, which means we can afford 2v loss before the booster circuit cannot boost anymore. There is an arrow coming from the positive side of the capacitor bank that indicates that this is the charge reference. This is just an indicator and is not connected anywhere. THE DPDT SWITCH: Just to the right of the capacitor bank, you will see what looks like a piece of lego with 6 little holes in it. This is my own little schematic symbol for a Double Pull Double Throw switch. As you can see, there are little arrows coming from the upper and lower middle circuits. These are the wipers (or PULLS). When in the off position, the wiper on the top is connected to the upper left pin (as seen in the picture), As well, when in the off position, the bottom wiper is connected to the lower left pin (as seen in the picture). When you press the DPDT switch on, the wipers connect to the pins on the right hand side. These switches are independant of one another, but are located in the same package, and are switched on and off at the same time. These only cost a buckand can be purchased with anything from my store. The top switch (Top left, middle and right pins) act to connect power to the DC-DC booster board. The bottom switch (Bottom left, midle, and right pins) act to supply the digital voltage reader with either the charge voltage of the capacitor bank (when switched off), or the DC booster output voltage (when switched on). The digital voltage reader will be talked about more on the next page. This switch business may sound tricky, but follow along with the schematic, and you'll be in good shape =) THE DC-DC BOOSTER: This is where things start to get easy! As stated earlier, this DC-DC booster circuit will boost any voltage at the input between 3.4v MIN to 34v MAX to any voltage between 3.4v and 34v. The output can be adjusted by using an on-board variable

resistor. All you need is to turn the pot! Examples: VIN = 3.4v VIN = 28v VIN = 8v VIN=3v

VOUT = Any voltage between 3.4v and 34v VOUT = Any voltage between 3.4v and 34v VOUT = Any voltage between 3.4v and 34v VOUT = 3v (Input voltage is to small to boost)

These booster boards are available in my store: ( There is a three-pin screw-type terminal block for safe connection, and a variable resistor that allows for you to change the output voltage for your desired application. The three pints are labeled VOUT/GND/VIN. So, VOUT is your varied output, GND is common ground, and VIN is your input voltage pin; requiring at least 3.4VDC. It is VERY easy to use. DIMENSIONS: 32x34x20mm. It can supply up to 3A of current, but that is not suggested for continuous draw. It is highly suggested that you keep continuous draw under 2A. This bad boy is rated for 15W and has an efficiency of 90%. As you can see, when the switch is flipped on, power is connected to the VIN terminal of the DC-DC booster board. The second terminal of the board is connected to the ground line, and the third is connected to our output terminal block. There is an arrow coming from the output line that is labeled "BOOST REF". This is just for reference and is not actually connected elsewhere in the circuitry. The terminal block (TERMINAL BLOCK#2) output can be used as our battery terminals. The DC value at this terminal block is adjusted using the on-board variable resistor on the DC-DC booster.

Step 3: The Digital Display


THE DIGITAL DISPLAY: This is one of my favorite characteristics of this circuit. The 0-20v digital digital display is easy to use, and will act to show us both the capacitor charge voltage and the DC-DC booster output voltage. This circuit requires roughly 8-14VDC to operate. Both of the bottom pins are connected to the ground line. The upper left pin is the DIGITAL DIISPLAY REFERENCE. The voltage at this pin will be

displayed digitally on the display. The digital display will display any voltage between 0-20VDC. When the DPDT switch is not connecting the capactor bank voltage to the booster circuit, the digital display will be displaying the charge on the capacitor bank. When the DPDT is switched on, the output of the booster will be displayed. Since the display has a 20v maximum limitation, it is suggested that if you are going to implement it, that you keep the booster output limited to 20VDC or under. The voltage at the upper right pin is the line that powers the entire display. This can be hooked directly to the input DC voltage line. It will work anywhere from 6.5v to 15, but it is preferred that you use 8-14v. The 0.1uf and 100uf capacitors that are placed at the DC input are implemented for the sake of protecting this digital display. When you stop, disengage the DC input charge, this display will shut off. OPTION: If you want, you can add a monotary push switch between the DC-DC booster and the power line of the digital display. This will enable you to have a look at the output of the DC-DC booster when you push down and hold the monetary switch by adding secondary power supply for the display. However, if you choose to go this route, it is necessary to add a diode into the mix. If you want to go this route, as I did in the circuit viewed in the video, let me know and I'll include another schematic.

Step 4: The Parts, the Theory, and the Conclusions


THE PARTS: I can offer a kit that includes the bulk of the parts in the schematic for $90 + $12 shipping. The LM317 kit, the 400f super capracitors, the digital display, and the DC-DC booster board cost more than $90 in total. If you are looking for parts singularly, they can be found here: (

I'll include the following for $90 +$12 for shipping with tracking: 2x 400f 2.7v super capacitors 1x LM317 DIY kit 1x 0-20v Digital display 1x 3.4v-34v DC-DC Booster board 1x DC plug (input and port set) 2x 2.2 Ohm power resistors 2x 1N4001 diodes 1x DPDT switch 1x 0.1uf capacitor 1x 100uf capacitor **** The Jumpers, terminal blocks, PCB, Input DC source, and SPST switch will not be included. Send me a message if you are interested. You can also reach me through ( and through ebay. THE THEORY: Most of the basic circuit theory was covered in the instructable. However, I'll go a bit further in depth regarding super capacitors. When you place a super capacitor in series with another super capacitor, you can up the voltage; doubling it, if the two capacitor voltage values are the same, but you lose capacitance. The formula for lost capacitance is the same as the parallel resistor formula: 1 [ (1/ C1) + (1 / C2)] Let's use it in the example of this instructable, where C1 = 400f, and C2 = 400f Example: CTotal = 1/[1/ C1) + (1 / C2)] CTotal = 1/[400) + (1/400)] CTotal = 1/0.005 CTotal = 200 f Example#2 (C1 = 3000f @ 2.5v / C2 = 10f @ 2.7fv) First, add the two voltages. (2.5 + 2.7 = 5.2v) This is your max charging voltage. CTotal = 1/[1/ C1) + (1 / C2)] CTotal = 1/[3000) + (1/10)] CTotal = 1/0.100 CTotal = 9.97f The total capacitance is always lower than the lowest capacitance added to the series string, so beware. Play around with this. A good way to check your answers is to play with this capacitor calculator: ( When placing capacitors in parallel with one another, you are looking at much easier calculations. When you place a capacitor in series with another capacitor, you just add the two capacitances together, and that will be your total capacitance. The maximum voltage you can charge to is always the lowest value. Let's use three capacitors in our example: Example: (C1 = 2.0v @ 10f / C2 = 2.5v @ 100f / C3 = 2.7v @ 1000f) Max voltage charge is 2.0v (The lowest of the three) CTotal = C1 + C2 + C3 CTotal = 10f + 100f +1000f CTotal = 1110f You can also place strings of sets in series, in parallel with one another for the sake of compensating for lost capacitances. Let's say we have 9x 2.7v @100f

capacitors. We want a capacitor that is higher than 7VDC and has the most capacitance possible. If we place three if these 2.7v capacitors in series, we get 8.1v, but the capacitance of the string is only 33.3f. We have 9x of these capacitors, so if we make three strings of three, and place them in parallel with one another, we have a capacitor bank that has a value of 8.1v @ 100f. Neat, eh? See one of my capacitor bank videos here:

There is so much theory that goes into capacitors. If you guys have a specific question, or perhaps a project idea, I will consider building it and displaying it for you all, right here on CONCLUSIONS: This circuit was a prototype, and I will be using it for years and years to come. I have a solar panel on my window that allows for me to listen to music using free energy all day long, and even for a few hours after the sun goes down. There are two things I'd like to do with my next version. I'd like to create a bank that employs thousands of farads, has a more advanced charging circuit, and has safecharge features that are controlled by a microcontroller that cut off a charge once the device has reached the proper level of charge. Super capacitors are the wave of the future, relative to energy storage. I am always looking for new ways of implementing them into projects. If you have any questions at all, feel free to ask. PLEASE VOTE FOR THIS INSTRUCTABLE OR SUBSCRIBE IF YOU LIKE WHAT YOU SEE!


Post Comment

haseebpk (/member/haseebpk/) says:

25 days ago


PLZ SEND (/member/haseebpk/)


cunnr006 (/member/cunnr006/) says:

25 days ago

Reply (CFS3U0XHOHYK093)

constant output of 5v with a (/member/cunnr006/)

can this device be altered so that it charges from a 5v solar panel, and produces a power of 1w, would need to discharge over a period of 24 hours

Jean-Valry Thoraval (/member/Jean-Val%C3%A9ry+Thoraval/) says: Reply (CRQI2YQHO7XQ6MX) 1 month ago

i just heard that the faster you recharge a battery, the faster it will die. (/member/JeanVal%C3%A9ry+Thoraval/) i was interested in super capacitor

batteries to charge lithium batteries fastier until i heard that, any inputs on that?

Interesting project - the only feedback I have is you need some sort of bleed across the 8 (/member/Tom+Hargrave/) caps to even out voltage. Series wired caps, even super caps, will charge & discharge unevenly leading to uneven voltages across the caps at full charge. Unless you are very lucky, the difference will continue until the voltage across one exceeds its rated value. Then it will break down causing the other to fail.

Tom Hargrave (/member/Tom+Hargrave/) says: 1 month ago


scci (/member/scci/) says:

3 months ago


charging. My charger (/member/scci/)

You sacrificed high power for more usability, I personally prefer the high power fast requires a wall outlet and only works for specific caps and voltages but it charges in 7 seconds.

ctwistedpair (/member/ctwistedpair/) says:

3 months ago

Reply (C9IM3V7HKVKX826)

This is excellent! Do you have a picture of the pcb so I can etch my own board?

jumpjack2 (/member/jumpjack2/) says:

5 months ago


Thanks for the very clear and interesting description. I have 2 questions: (/member/jumpjack2/) - how can I reach 64V in output? Can I connect in series two boosters, or do I need a different output component? - how can I reach 100A in output? Can I just mount in parallel a dozen of circuits like this? (btw, how much current does it support?) I'm trying to boost my electric scooter by some supercaps: I have 20 supercaps rated 25F/2.7V each. By now I only need a few seconds boost for testing. Thanks.

dsuprina (/member/dsuprina/) says:

5 months ago


circuit (or (/member/dsuprina/)

What is the maximum current draw for the Super Capacitor battery? I'd like to use this something similar) as a means to support an approximately 4A 12VDC

draw. Given the ultra capacitors used, how long could such a load be accommodated in the event that the primary power source (AC input) is cut? (I'm looking for a short term -- as in a few seconds -- of UPS capability here.)

ckarthik (/member/ckarthik/) says:

6 months ago


hi nice work there..


I've a 12 v 5ah battery in my bike.. but it isn't really enough for it.. and gets easily discharged.. i can't upgrade to a higher capacity because of space constraints.. so i would like to use these super capacitors to increase the battery capacity so that collectively I've 9 or 10ah capacity.. any ideas? circuit diagram? thanks in advance

caranfis (/member/caranfis/) says:

7 months ago

Reply (C039I7QHGH72CH9)

Does this (/member/caranfis/)

I'm looking for a 12VDC, 3A super-capacitor to power up my device for 60seconds. circuit provide this amount of energy?

5 (/member/danm_daniel/)

awesome, I'm glad you're part of the instructables community

danm_daniel (/member/danm_daniel/) says: 9 months ago


wiltshire101 (/member/wiltshire101/) says:

11 months ago


Hi, thanks for the infos. Any idea how to homebrew super capacitor? wiltshire101 (/member/wiltshire101/)

Actually a DC-DC Boost converter will output any voltage ABOVE it's input, if you feed it 20 12 (/member/Emiliano+Valencia/) volts, you can't get less than that!

Emiliano Valencia (/member/Emiliano+Valencia/) says: 1 year ago

Reply (C73NNVFH5R9EET0)

dlongenhagen (/member/dlongenhagen/) says: 1 year ago

Reply (C5UB0EBGXL61Z4Z)

circuit it is just a (/member/dlongenhagen/)

hello, the supercapacitor is truly a great thing however without the correct charging large bulky expensive item. i did purchase a cap, just recently, i actually need a circuit which will take low miliamperage and charge these bad boys. if someone has one let me know. if the guy running "" would get in touch i would relate more input, as it is truly a experimenter circuit, oh, did i say I'd pay.... dave at

waterlubber (/member/waterlubber/) in reply to dlongenhagen Reply (CV1H0R9H2WEPWVD) 1 year ago

longer the charge 3 (/member/waterlubber/)

Well, for the lower the amperage, the time. I think.


gosugenji (/member/gosugenji/) says:

1 year ago


Could you use something like this to jump start a car?? Just wondering :x

flamekiller (/member/flamekiller/) in reply to gosugenji Reply (CTAATT2H2MYLWPN) 1 year ago

current to jump-start a (/member/flamekiller/)

This wouldn't be able to provide enough car.

vvodking (/member/vvodking/) says:

2 years ago

Reply (CZZ4Q45GMX1X66C)

be able to (/member/vvodking/)

maybe you should make your dc booster work at lower voltage than 3.4 so you would connect the supercaps in parallel. Otherwise it is an enormous waste of capacity and money.

If the voltage from the capacitors' configuration is higher (series), less (/member/0_Nvd_0/) current is drawn.

0_Nvd_0 (/member/0_Nvd_0/) in reply to vvodking 1 year ago


In parallel, twice the amount of current is drawn by the booster. Power = Voltage * Current Thus, you do not gain anything from parallel configuration except the fact that equivalent internal resistance (ESR) is halved. That can help in quick high current demands. The real concern is the efficiency of the booster. Capacitors should be arranged in a configuration to produce voltage at which the efficiency of the booster is maximum.

If I understood it right, then the energy stored in an capacitance calculates (/member/fuzzhead/) through the term E = 0.5 * C * U^2. With the given Caps (400F, 2.7V) and the two possible configurations that means: E(parallel) = 0.5 * (400F + 400F) * 2.7 ^ 2 = 2916 J E(serial) = 0.5 * 200F * (2.7V + 2.7V) ^ 2 = 2919 J So the max. stored Energy is the same for both configurations. -> No waste of money ;D Correct me if I made a mistake ;)

fuzzhead (/member/fuzzhead/) in reply to vvodking 2 years ago


0_Nvd_0 (/member/0_Nvd_0/) in reply to fuzzhead 1 year ago

You are correct. The configuration does


(/member/0_Nvd_0/) not matter. The

energy stored is always the function of capacitance and voltage.

EngineeringShock (/member/EngineeringShock/) (author) in reply to Reply (CKULXEYGMX1PTWB) vvodking 2 years ago

I've never heard of a booster circuit that can boost less than 3.4VDC up to a 35 (/member/EngineeringShock/) maximum of 34VDC while sourcing a relatively high current output. If you are talking about a joule thief of some kind, then yes, you can boost less than a volt, but not up to a relatively high DC voltage, and with an extremely limiting current output. If you can point me to a booster circuit that can do what you're saying, then by all means let me know about it and I'll surely implement it. As well, the user does not have to use two 400f caps in series. They can use 2x 3000f caps in series, or slightly modify the power supply charger to work with a 12v capacitor bank. Regardless, I've already saved about $50 in the past several months on batteries, so it really isn't fair to suggest that it is a waste of money, especially since super capacitors last one hell of a lot longer than batteries if treated well.

dunnos (/member/dunnos/) says:

2 years ago


am I able to 11 (/member/dunnos/) much fun :)

So... Should I be able to convert Farads to Ah or is that completely wrong? How long draw how high a currents from this? It's confusing but really seems very

Also, how long would these have to charge?

Super capacitor vs battery comparison: (/member/0_Nvd_0/)

0_Nvd_0 (/member/0_Nvd_0/) in reply to dunnos 1 year ago


(5 * "Capacitance" * "Voltage") / 36 = Battery rating in mAh at "Voltage" I deduced it based on the energy equivalence of the two reservoirs. Hopefully, it is correct.

sparky3489 (/member/sparky3489/) says:

1 year ago

Reply (CU3PH2TH0OJ2E2D)

SPDT = Single Pole, Double Throw - not Pull


aaa3a (/member/aaa3a/) says:

1 year ago


i searched (/member/aaa3a/)

where can i get this kind of super capacitors from junk boards as i don't need to buy it in atx power supply but no luck could u tell me which boards or devices should i searching in regards

You can't get these caps from junk boards. You won't find any cap near this (/member/valveman/)

valveman (/member/valveman/) in reply to aaa3a 1 year ago


capacity in any junk/atx power supplies. They are specialized caps. You need to buy them new. Look on Ebay

Aperture Laboratories (/member/Aperture+Laboratories/) says: Reply (CO5J9K7GWOH3MOD) 2 years ago

caps, if you wanted 1 (/member/Aperture+Laboratories/)

so, you could use a solar panel to charge the to? ?right?

Inducktion (/member/Inducktion/) says:

2 years ago


everything 6 (/member/Inducktion/)

You actually don't need a microcontroller or anything fancy to make it turn off once it's all full. All you need is an op amp, resistors, and a switch of some sort, be it a mosfet, relay, or even a BJT.

JRL_J (/member/JRL_J/) says:

2 years ago


does the kit come with a charger for the super capacitors?

swimfan2489 (/member/swimfan2489/) says:

2 years ago


supercapacitors (/member/swimfan2489/)

great instructable here! from what i gather here, are you basically using to completely replace your "battery" source? I am looking to make something similar to this, it is a mini solar powered (4V @ 50mA cell) USB recharger for electronics but I want there to only be supercapacitors so this project is as "green" as possible.. would it be possible to just use supercaps for this application??

tinker234 (/member/tinker234/) says:

2 years ago


so what could it power


BC-45 (/member/BC-45/) says:

2 years ago


how long does the charge last for?

1 (/member/BC45/)

Very interesting concept. I can see how the cost adds up, I've been working with some 4 (/member/Confounded+Machine/) 100F super caps...not expensive but not

Confounded Machine (/member/Confounded+Machine/) says: Reply (C615ELWGMDZMYO7) 2 years ago

cheap either. The surge capacity of these beasts is comparison to their weight and size is unreal! I may just have to cobble together your circuit. Thanks

EngineeringShock (/member/EngineeringShock/) (author) in reply to Confounded Machine

2 years ago


Hey Thanks for the comment. If you have 4x 100f 2.7v super caps, you can do the 35 (/member/EngineeringShock/) same thing = ) Yeah, the great thing about super caps is that they're not going to shock you. However, I have given myself a rather severe burn after accidentally shorting the leads on my 96F 12.5V bank =( It set the insulation on my wires on fire. If you're interested, I have another instructables coming out today. If you're interested, check out my profile later on. Thanks =) Pat

jam BD (/member/jam+BD/) says:

2 years ago


The digital meter 4 (/member/jam+BD/)

Very interesting idea. Nice project but the $90 price tag is deterring. was a nice touch.

You can get the supercaps cheap at goldmine electric. (/member/cypherf0x/)

cypherf0x (/member/cypherf0x/) in reply to jam BD 2 years ago


Hi Thanks for the comment =) Yes, $90 is not cheap, but you really get your 35 (/member/EngineeringShock/) money's worth. As well, 400f super caps are not cheap. If someone wanted, They could use smaller caps, but the charge wouldn't last as long. Thanks again =) Pat

EngineeringShock (/member/EngineeringShock/) (author) in reply to jam BD Reply (C5G48JYGJQEHA3M) 2 years ago

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