1-3 Fokker Dviii Scratch Build

1/3 FOKKER DVIII Scratch Build
6/24/2013
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1/3 FOKKER DVIII Scratch Build - 1/29/2010 4:08 AM
rcwarbirdbuilder
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Posts: 1008 Score: 110 Joined: 2/28/2002 Last Login: 6/22/2013 From: canton, MI, USA Status: offline
I have a spare engine (Q75) so in order to put it to use, I am going to build a 1/3 size Fokker DVIII. I have built BUSA 1/4 size couple years back. I am going to use the Qaudra 75 in my 1/3 Neuport 17, and pull the G-62 out of it, so I well actualy be using a G-62 in the Fokker which should be just right for it. As other people have stated there is very little info on the DVIII. I am using a RON WEISS plan as a (guide to start with). The first thing I found were conflicting wing span and length documentation I found googleing on the web. I took out my Scale Aircraft Drawings published by Model Airplane News, they seem to have the most factual documentation on the size of the plane. I found the wing span to be just over 27'. Weiss plan shows 9'-3" which I take means 111" is about right for 1/3 scale size, although his length of fuselage of 73" is about 3" short of 1/3 scale according to my documentation. Anyway like the plan states 9'3" span and I measured the span on the plan with a tape rule and it is 107" actual on paper, It all comes down to the builder making modifications if any and continue with the build, nothing is perfect. The thing that stands out to me on the plan is that the Rudder seams a little small, so I have opted to add about 3/4" around the back curve of the rudder, the horizontal stab size looks ok. I think I am going to add about 1" to the front of the fuselage to hang out beyond the front landing gear strut, that well help a little towards balancing it and hopefully nobody notices it on the field if I keep my mouth shut about it. Attachments
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< Message edited by rcwarbirdbuilder -- 2/6/2010 4:59 PM >
_____________________________ Help! Call the doctor I can''''''t stop building these things.
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RE: 1/3 FOKKER DVIII Scratch Build - 1/29/2010 4:28 AM
rcwarbirdbuilder
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Posts: 1008 Score: 110 Joined: 2/28/2002 Last Login: 6/22/2013 From: canton, MI, USA
I started by cutting the four ribs which go in the center of the wing out of 3/16" balsa, the remainder of the ribs out of 1/8" balsa. I cut 4 peices of 3/8"x5/16" and four peices of 1/4"x1/4" clear pine for the wing stringers. I laid the bottom front 3/8" and rear 1/4" stringer over the plan and glued in the first 6 ribs on each center half of the wing. I am using a 1"x15" aluminum wing tube and socket from TNT Landing Gear front of the rear stringers, and a 1-1/2"x 30" tube behind the front stinger. The second picture shows the wing with remainder of the ribs, the center portion is proped up at the bottom of the wing with3/4"wood block under the wing in a way to give me about 1/8" washout at the wing tip. The bottom wing spars at rib w6 is notched so the spar bends up at that point. The DVIII wing top stays level and the gradual thinning of the ribs towards the end gives it a diahedral on the bottom side of the wing Attachments
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From: canton, MI, USA Status: offline
6/24/2013
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< Message edited by rcwarbirdbuilder -- 1/29/2010 4:53 AM >
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RE: 1/3 FOKKER DVIII Scratch Build - 1/30/2010 5:06 PM
rcwarbirdbuilder
This is what the wing looks like before sheeting the top, and the wing tubes in place. Attachments
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vertical grimmace
Looks good. How are you going to fasten the wings together when assembling for pre-flight? With a set screw going into the tube? I will be doing the same thing with a large bipe I am getting ready to build. Thanks. _____________________________ "let''''s just say, they will be satisfied with less" Ming the Merciless
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Posts: 4479 Score: 169 Joined: 3/13/2004 Last Login: 6/24/2013 From: ft collins , CO, USA Status: offline
(in reply to rcwarbirdbuilder)
Post #: 4
rcwarbirdbuilder
Yes, What I do on all the wings is to add 1" square hardblock, and drill through to the tube and use a 8x1-1/4" sheet metal screw through it, it works better than threading for a machine screw.
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Help! Call the doctor I can''''''t stop building these things.

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(in reply to vertical grimmace) Post #: 5
rcnats
I'm building one too! I just finished the rudder and have started framing the stab. Laminating is "fun" . I too will be using a wing tube and will follow your example of connecting them. I will be using a Z445 twin to power mine. Keep up the good work! _____________________________
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rcnats Spitfire Brotherhood #109

Posts: 387 Score: 105 Joined: 12/8/2001 Last Login: 6/24/2013 From: Steens, MS, USA Status: offline
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6/24/2013
Post #: 6
rcwarbirdbuilder
I have not decided to laminate mine, or maybe I may laminate two peices of 3/16" balsa and cut the outline out of the rudder and elevators.. _____________________________
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Post #: 7
rcwarbirdbuilder
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I cut the 5/16"x5/16" fuselage stingers out of pine, I made the fuselage 2" longer than the plan and well add 3/4" in length to the rudder. I have the three former sides of the interior part of the fuselage made of 3/16"x1-1/4"ply glued on, I opted to use hard 1/8" ply on the side fronts, I don't think light ply well stand up good here with a G-62 engine for power. I also ordered a two peice DVIII aluminum cowl from Arizona Models, the front peice needs to be revited or screwed on the round cowl part, should look neat when installed and add some charactor to the plane. Attachments
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rcwarbirdbuilder
I have got the two fuesalage sides joined. Attachments
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Evil_Merlin
Did you get the Windsock Data File book on the Fokker D.VIII? Its rather decent. Also the small book by Kagero (Polish Publishing company). I'm using both for my source material on my 1/4 and 1/3rd scale when I get around to building them.
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Posts: 3756 Score: 132 Joined: 8/8/2004 Last Login: 9/29/2011 From: Medford, MA, USA Status: offline
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Post #: 10
rcwarbirdbuilder
Merlin I like the color scheme on the cover of the Polish publication, I may just do it on mine, thanks George. _____________________________
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6/24/2013
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Post #: 11
Evil_Merlin
George, yep, thats the one I'm doing too. Its a fantastic paint job.
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Posts: 3756 Score: 132 Joined: 8/8/2004 Last Login: 9/29/2011 From: Medford, MA, USA Status: offline Post #: 12
rcwarbirdbuilder
Landing gear fabrication today, this is how I do it. First I have the gear struts bent to shape out of 3/16" music wire, than cut the axle attachment out of sheet steel, weld the two parts, and than braze the bungee retention posts. The bent ends gives me a flat spot to mount the gear wing latter. Attachments
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(in reply to Evil_Merlin) Post #: 13
rcnats
Wow! Great work! I'll be following you as I build mine. Hope to finish the tail section tonight. Keep up the good work! _____________________________
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Post #: 14
rcwarbirdbuilder
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Thanks rcnats,.. I am doing the wing sheeting today. I useualy add wing tip wash out weather the plans call for it or not, it just makes the airplane fly a little better. I have pinned down the wing to the table with a 3/16" shim wedged at the wing tip to add the washout and sheet the top,.. Once the wing is un-pinned the tendancy of the wing is to loose about half of the washout so I end up with about 3/32" washout at the tip. I had planned on leaving some of the bottom not sheeted but I am going and sheeting all of it. I hate covering sheeted wing with fabric because of the tendancy for the fabric to wrinkle more. Attachments
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6/24/2013
(in reply to rcnats) Post #: 15
rcnats
I too will be sheeting the whole wing. I ran into a small "glitch" with the stab. Have you built yours yet? Do the spars go on top of the 1/8th center piece, then the screw dowels with 1/4 support pieces, then the other 1/8th piece go on top? Also, Do you have to place 1/8x1/4 ribs down first, then the 1/4 sq spars? That's my "glitch". Thanks. I got all the parts cut, just trying to figure out how to put them together .
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rcwarbirdbuilder
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I have not built mine yet, but the way I build most of these ww1 planes is follows, for the horizontal stab leading edge I pin down 3/8" square hard wood, otherwise when i use a airplane hold down bracket on the stab the balsa leading edge usualy breaks. than on the trailing edge I am using 3/8"x 3/4" balsa, and i fill it in with 1/4"x3/8" sq. balsa sticks ribs. the center section of the stab that rests on the fuselage sadle I well lay down 1/8" hard ply and laminate it with 1/4" balsa, that way I drill some 1/8" holes through the stab center section into the fuselage sadle, and add blind tee nuts on the bottom side of the sadle, I counter sink the stab center section 1/4" balsa so the hold down screw sets flush, hope the answer helps, I well post some pictures of the stab build in the next couple days as I start it. _____________________________ Help! Call the doctor I can''''''t stop building these things.
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(in reply to rcnats) Post #: 17
rcnats
Thanks! I'll look forward to it. Once the tail is built I'll start on the wing. Having your pics will truly help. Keep up the good work, I'm coming along behind you . _____________________________
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Post #: 18
Evil_Merlin
I should have you make me a set of legs for this bird. I HATE metal working with a passion!
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Posts: 3756 Score: 132 Joined: 8/8/2004 Last Login: 9/29/2011 From: Medford, MA, USA Status: offline Post #: 19
rcwarbirdbuilder
I need my acylene and oxgen tank filled before I can use it anymore, if you cover that cost I can do it for you, we can talk about it when you get ready. _____________________________
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Post #: 20
5/7
6/24/2013
Evil_Merlin
That would be awesome. Thank you.
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(in reply to rcwarbirdbuilder) Posts: 3756 Score: 132 Joined: 8/8/2004 Last Login: 9/29/2011 From: Medford, MA, USA Status: offline Post #: 21
rcwarbirdbuilder
Stablizer - The first thing I do is lay the fuselage over the stablizer plan and make sure the fit is correct at the front of the stablizer,, than I started by pinning down the leading edge in this case made from harwood pine or spruce, 3/8" thick and 7/16" wide with the front rounded off prior to assembly, the front section that meets the center section is also hardwood. The center section I lay down 1/8" hard ply and than laminate 1/4" balsa on top of it. The trailing edge is 3/8"x3/4" hard balsa, the ribs are 3/8"x1/4" hard balsa or 3/8"x3/8" balsa is also fine. the end peice is 3/8"x3/4" balsa. The trailing edge is also braced with a 3/8"x1/2" balsa from the center section to the outer rib. All the gussets are 3/16" balsa. This is the way I make all my tail feathers and is simple and works fine, the drawings sometime gets to convoluted for me to even want to follow, the stab and rudder well have wires to brace it so it well be even stronger when completed. Attachments
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(in reply to Evil_Merlin) Post #: 22
rcwarbirdbuilder
rcnats, what do you think, did my stab build pictures help any? I just can't see all that cross hatching ribbing showing through on the fabric once completed, I would not like it. _____________________________
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Post #: 23
rcwarbirdbuilder
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O crap I finished sheeting the second wing half and forgot to set the tee nut in for the wing struts last night. The clamp is holding a pine block which I am going to drill through with the wing tube in place, and run a 8x1-1/4" sheet metal screw into and well hold the wing in place. The triangle ply plate to the left of the clamp well be drilled and a tee nut glued behind it to hold the wing struts, I well have to cut a window in the sheeting since I forgot to install the tee nuts before I finished sheeting. I did remember to install the servo cable and the mounting rails though. Attachments
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6/24/2013
rcwarbirdbuilder
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I ordered by email couple days ago 7' of 1/3 scale 4 color lozenge covering, today is saturday and Jamie at Arizonal Models got back with me the next day and said that he well have it in the mail tuesday, I have used the stuff many times before and aside from the cost it is easy to work with and looks good when finished. I am going to cover the fuselage sides and top with it, I think I well use 21st century white fabric on the rest and paint it. Photo of where I am at now on the 1/3 scale DVIII and my last BUSA 1/4 scale. Attachments
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