MadeByKs Crocheted

HELLO KITTY

Granny Square Scarf

A fun accessory for anyone who loves Hello Kitty, this scarf is made up of rectangles joined together and surrounded by a picot-edged border. Each rectangle features either a cute kitty face or a traditional granny square (modified slightly to make it oblong).

Materials:
5.00mm/US H(8) crochet hook 6.00mm/US J(10) crochet hook Worsted weight yarn for: face (white) outline (your choice; I used grey; red is also very nice) background (your choice; I used bright pink) eyes and whiskers (black) nose (yellow, or light pink if you dont care about being authentic) flower or bow (your choice; I used yellow) granny square colors 1, 2, 3 (I used white, pink and grey) (Model made with Caron Simply Soft) Yarn needle

Abbreviations:
Ones I made up: V = 2 sc in next st W = 3 sc in next st sc x N = sc in next N st; V x N = V in next N st ear = sl st in next st, hdc in next st, ch 1, dc in same st as hdc, ch 1, tc in next st, ch 1, dc in next st, ch 1, hdc in same st as dc, sl st in next st J = joining slip stitch (see photos on last pages) DOUBLE shell = skip 4 st, 3 dc in next st (for face sqr) or skip 3 dc st from prev rnd , 3 dc in next ch sp (for granny square) TRIPLE shell = skip 4 st, 3 tc in next st (for face square) or skip 3 tc st from prev rnd , 3 tc in next ch sp (for granny square) Usual ones: R = row or round beg = beginning st = stitch sp = space sl st = slip stitch ch = chain sc = single crochet fsc = foundation single crochet2 yo = yarn over picot = sc, ch3, sl st in 1st ch or sl st, ch 3, sl st in same st or whatever picot stitch you prefer BLO = back loop only

Gauge:
4 sc = 1 (2.5 cm), 4-5 rows of sc = 1 (2.5 cm) (if gauge even matters here)

Finished Size:
Width: about 7 (18 cm) Length: depends on number of squares you use Each granny square1: 5 x 6 (13 cm x 16 cm) Face appliqu only: 3 x 4 (8 cm x 11 cm)

The finished square is actually not. But whos ever heard of a Granny Rectangle? So Im just going to call them as squares throughout. A year ago, Id never heard of this stitch. Now its my favorite way to start. In this case of only 4 starting stitches, it doesnt make that big a difference, so if youd rather not learn it right now, Ive provided an alternate method. But on pieces that start with longer chains, I find fsc so much easier, faster, nicer. Essentially, each fsc stitch is made of up a chain part and a stitch part. So you get your starting chain and your first row at the same time! Do an online search for foundation single crochet for more info, tutorials, videos or ask me!
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2009 Karin Stiles.

Hello Kitty Granny Square Scarf - 1

madebyk.blogspot.com

Setup:
Figure out how many squares you need by dividing your desired finished scarf length by 5 (12.75cm) and rounding to nearest whole number. Decide how many face squares (at right, top) you want to include, then figure how many granny squares (at right, bottom) you need to reach your total. Also, decide on the pattern or order in which to attach the squares.

Example
To make the scarf as shown in the photo on page 1: Desired scarf length for 5 year old girl: 46 46 divided by 5 = 9.2 9.2 rounds to 9; so I need 9 squares. I want a Hello Kitty on each end, so I need 2 face squares. 9 2 = 7; so I need 7 regular granny squares. I want my granny squares to alternate in color pattern, so I need 4 with a white center and 3 with a grey center.

Pattern Notes:
This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms. Stitch totals for the row/rounds in the face square are shown after the Note: Photo shows square used in a scarf instructions for each row/round, ex. 18 st. Do not count the ch1 at the start of each round as a stitch. Do count the sl st at the end of each row as a stitch. (So, the sl st at end of current round becomes the first stitch to use in next round.) While Ive tried to follow some of the crochet pattern conventions that I know of, Ive also ignored them at times and done things my own way. For example, as far as I know, I should have written: R5: ch1, turn, sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st, * 2 sc in next st, sc in next st * three times, sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, sl st to 1st sc of current round. [30 st] Instead, I just wrote a condensed version as follows: R5: ch1, turn, sc x 2, V, sc x 6, V, sc, V, sc, V, sc x 8, V, sc, sl st to 1st sc of current round. [30 st] Hope that makes sense and doesnt irritate you As previously mentioned and seen in the photo above right, the finished Hello Kitty granny square is actually rectangular. Consequently, the pattern for the traditional granny square has been modified slightly so that the finished piece matches the dimensions of the Hello Kitty piece. In a nutshell, tc instead of dc are worked along two opposite sides, which make those two sides taller than the other two, resulting in a rectangle.

Joining Methods:
Method 1:
Make all of the complete squares separately, i.e. R1-10 for the faces, R1-4 for the grannies; whenever you see ch1/J, just do a normal ch1 and ignore the J. When all squares are done, slip stitch or whipstitch them together in the proper order and continue on with the border.

Method2: (used on scarf shown)

Make the squares up until the last color change, i.e. R1-8 for the faces, R1-3 for the grannies. Then complete each square (R9-10 for face & R4 for granny), finishing the first square separately and joining each remaining square to the one before, substituting a joining slip stitch (J) for the ch1 as needed whenever you see ch1/J. See Join-As-You-Go section at the end for details and photos.

2009 Karin Stiles.

madebyk.blogspot.com

Crochet Pattern:
1. FACE SQUARES
Make as many Hello Kitty face squares as you need for your scarf. For childs scarf as shown, make 2. With face color yarn(white) and 5.00mm hook: R1: 4 fsc (or ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in remaining 3 ch) 4 stitches. R2: ch1, turn, V (in top of fsc closest to hook), sc in next 2 st, V (in top of last fsc), V (in bottom of last fsc), 3 sc in bottoms of next 3 fsc, sl st to 1st sc of current round 12 st. R3: ch1, turn, sc, V, sc x 2, V x 3, sc x 4, V, sl st into 1st st of current round 18 st. R4: ch1, turn, sc, V, sc x 6, V x 3, sc x 6, V, sl st to 1st sc of current round 24 st. R5: ch1, turn, sc x 2, V, sc x 6, V, sc, V, sc, V, sc x 8, V, sc, sl st to 1st sc of current round 30 st. R6: ch1, turn, sc x 3, V, sc x 8, V, sc, V, sc x 2, V, sc x 10, V, sc, sl st to 1st sc of current round 36 st. R7: ch1, turn, sc x 3, V, sc x 10, V, sc x 2, V, sc x 2, ear, sc x 4, ear, sc x 2, switch yarn to outline color (grey), sl st to 1st sc of current round (pulling the new color through) 52 st. Continuing with outline color (grey): R8: ch1, turn, sc x 3, skip sl st, sc x 4, W (mark middle/2nd stitch), sc x 4, skip sl st, sc x 4, skip sl st, sc x 4, W, sc x 4, skip sl st, sc x 2, V, sc x 14, V, sc x 2, sc x 2, V, sl st to 1st sc of current round; bind off 56 st. With background color yarn (pink) and 5.00mm hook still: R9: Turn/Hold face so marked ear is on the right. Starting at tip of right ear, put hook through middle (marked) st of W in previous round, yo and pull loop through, ch 1, sc in same st, sc x 5, skip 1 st, sc x 2, skip 1 st, sc x 5, W, sc x 13, V, sc x 12, V, sc x 14 (14th sc is in same st as 1st sc of current round), sl st to 1st sc of current round 60 st. Switch to larger 6.00mm hook. R10: Dont turn. Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st), 2 dc in sl st from previous round, ch1/J, TRIPLE shell, ch1/J, TRIPLE shell, ch1/J, DOUBLE shell, ch 1, ch1/J (this makes 1st corner), 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE shell, ch1, DOUBLE shell, ch1, TRIPLE shell, ch1/J (2nd corner), ch 1, 3 tc in same st, ch1/J, DOUBLE shell, ch1/J, DOUBLE shell, ch1/J, TRIPLE shell, ch 1, ch1/J (3rd corner), 3 tc in same st, ch1, DOUBLE shell, ch1, DOUBLE shell, ch1, TRIPLE shell, ch 1/J (4th corner), sl st to top chain of beg ch-3; bind off 68 st.

2. GRANNY SQUARES
Make as many as you need for your scarf. For scarf as shown, make 4 starting with white and 3 with grey. With Color 1 (white/grey) yarn and 6.00mm hook: Start: ch 6 (or 5 or 4), sl st to starting ch to join into a ring (or use a magic ring3). R1: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc st, here and throughout), 2 dc in ring, ch2 (this makes 1st corner), 3 tc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch2, 3 tc in ring, ch 1, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3 (4th corner). Bind off. Switch to Color 2 (pink) yarn. R2: Insert hook into ch-sl st sp (4th corner), yo (with new color) and pull a loop through, ch3, 2 dc in same sp, {ch1, DOUBLE shell,} ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE shell,} ch2, 3 dc in same sp, {ch 1/J, DOUBLE shell,} ch 2, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE shell,} ch1 (4th corner), sl st to top chain of beg ch-3. Bind off. Switch to Color 3 (grey/white) yarn. R3: Same as R2, except do parts in {} brackets twice. Switch to Background color (pink) yarn. R4: Insert hook into ch-sl st sp (4th corner), yo (with new color) and pull a loop through, ch3, 2 dc in same sp, {ch1/J, DOUBLE shell} 3 times, ch 1, ch1/J, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE shell} 3 times, ch1/J, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp, {ch 1/J, DOUBLE shell} 3 times, ch 1, ch1/J, 3 tc in same sp, {ch 1, TRIPLE shell} 3 times, ch1/J, sl st to top chain of beg ch-3. Bind off.
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Another favorite of mine whenever Im crocheting in the round and want to avoid having a hole at the start. Again, Ive provided an alternate method here but I highly recommend the magic ring method. Online search keywords: magic ring crochet or magic circle

2009 Karin Stiles.

madebyk.blogspot.com

3. SCARF BORDER
With the squares all attached together, next step is to finish the edges and add some structure to the scarf by adding a border. For the first round, you could just sc all the way around (with 3 sc in each corner). But that seems to leave a dip at every spot where squares join instead of a nice straight line. So to avoid leaving dips, I increased my stitch heights around the joining areas: a hdc in the ch2 space after the last shell of a square, a dc over the joining sl st (i.e. the space between the edges of the 2 squares), a hdc in what looks like the ch2 space but is actually the top of the 1st tc of the next square. (Locations for these stitches are shown in the photo.) For the third picot round, if the number of stitches between the two corner stitches along an edge is evenly divisible by 3, then add an extra sc into TWO of the {sc, sc picot} sets; if it has a remainder of 1, then no extra sc are needed; with a remainder of two, add an extra sc into one of the {sc, sc, picot} sets. Also note, there should be picots on either side of the 3 sc at a corner. So heres what I did: With background color (pink) and 6.00mm hook (I think, or maybe I used the 5.00mm one): R1: Starting in the ch-2 sp to the right of one of the short edges, sc all along the short edge, 3 sc in the ch 2 corner space, 15 sc, {hdc, dc, hdc, 14 sc}, repeat {} until you reach next corner, 3 sc in the ch 2 corner space, sc along the short edge, 3 sc in the ch 2 corner sp, 15 sc, {hdc, dc, hdc, 14 sc}, repeat {} until you reach the corner, 1 sc in ch2 corner sp, sl st to 1st sc of current round. R2: ch 1, turn, sc all the way around, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st at end. R3 (see note above about third picot round): ch 1, turn. {sc, sc, picot} all the way along, doing 3 sc at each corner, sl st at end.

4. FINISHING
Block the scarf, then add the facial features and accessories and youre done! (If youve never blocked before, this website is informative: http://www.crochetspot.com/blocking-crochet/)

Facial Features
One of the keys to really making this look like Hello Kitty is correct placement of eyes, nose, and whiskers. Hopefully the image with gridlines at right is helpful. The eyes are really low, in the bottom half of her face, each about of the way in from the sides. And her nose is even lower, about of the way from the bottom edge. So, using black yarn in yarn needle, embroider eyes and whiskers. Embroider nose using yellow yarn. In order to make a face on both sides, I made the eyes and nose by putting 3-4 stitches on top of each other, allowing two of the stitches to curve outward to create the oval shape and then tying each one off individually and trying to hide the knot under the stitches on the back 1 /3 side. For the whiskers, I did one long stitch for each, tied a knot on the back side, slid the knot as far to the outside as I could, i.e. off of her face, onto the outline, and then dabbed some FrayCheck/fabric glue onto the knot before cutting the tails off really short.

2009 Karin Stiles.

madebyk.blogspot.com

Next, of course, she also needs an accessory near her right ear

Flower:
With flower color yarn (yellow): R1: Start with magic ring3 (or ch 4-6 and join into ring with sl st), ch 1 (does not count as st), 5 sc into magic ring (or plain chain ring), sl st to 1st sc (counts as a st). [6 st] R2: {sl st, ch 3, sl st} in BLO of each st. [6 petals]. After last sl st, cut yarn, pull through and tie to starting tail. Use tails to sew on to HK Head; for double-sided, Id cut tails off and use white yarn to attach so the colored yarn doesnt show through on the other side.

Bow:
Havent figured out one I liked yet (out of the grand total two I tried). But it cant be that hard Any ideas?

Variations and Other Ideas:

Instead of just one background color, use two or more. A white edging connecting them all would look nice. Use the face on its own as an appliqu. Simply crochet R1-7, finishing the sl st without changing to the outline color. Or better yet, in order to make the ending essentially disappear, stop before you do the sl st. Cut your yarn, leaving a 6 (15cm) tail. Pull the loop on your hook out so that the tail comes straight up out of the middle of the previous stitch. Using your hook or a yarn needle, send the tail under the 1st stitch of the round (where you would have slip stitched) and out the back. Then send it back down through the middle of the previous stitch, the one the tail was coming straight up out of. You should have just made a tear drop shape that looks like all the stitches around it. To finish, weave in the tail. For a tutorial with great photos, go here: http://www.futuregirl.com/craft_blog/2008/12/weaving-in-the-last-end.aspx Make a blanket. A checkerboard of Hello Kitty squares and granny squares would be nice. You could still join as you go; youd just have to substitute joining slip stitches for both chains in the corners when attaching the square to along two edges that form a corner, one joining slip stitch into each of the squares being joined to.

Final Thoughts from Karin

If you use this pattern to make anything, Id love to see photos! Email them to kmskms@charter.net (primary) or kkstiles@gmail.com (secondary). (Or maybe Ill figure out how to make a flickr group) This is the first version of this pattern and has not been tested. For that reason, please dont post it online, pass it on to anyone else, distribute it, etc. Id like to hold off on that until I know the pattern is user friendly and error-free. If you know someone else that wants it, have them email me; Id be happy to send them a copy. Along those same lines, please send me any suggestions, comments, or questions you have. Did I give enough detail? Too much? Are there typos? Or abbreviations I forgot to list? Is it an easy/advanced beginner pattern or more of an intermediate one? Did I forget a vital step? Do you want to contribute a bow idea? Id also love to hear an estimate of how long it took you. I did not think of this idea/design/motif myself; rather, I saw it as a pattern on Ravelry (which in turn was an adaptation, I believe, from a pattern in a Japanese crochet book), then I also found other versions online. However, when I tried them, I didnt like the shape of the resulting kitty face nor the fact that the ears were added separately. I also didnt like how dense the final round around the kitty face was; it didnt look like a granny square round. So I made up my own pattern, but based on someone elses design.

2009 Karin Stiles.

madebyk.blogspot.com

Join-As-You-Go
I first saw this technique at http://attic24.typepad.com, beautifully explained by Lucy see her sidebar for the Join as you go tutorial. But in case thats not available to you, heres some more information about it. Essentially, you substitute a slip stitch for a chain stitch along sides you want to join, inserting your hook into the corresponding chain space of another square before completing the slip stitch. For the scarf, always join along the longer edge of the square. The photos below show joining along the third edge; if youre attaching a Hello Kitty square, you might have to join right away along the first edge, depending on what orientation the face should end up in. In that case, do steps 6-16, then loop back to the beginning. 1. Finish last 3 tc shell of current edge. Match up current square to previous square. 2. Insert hook, front to back, through ch 2 space at corner of previous square. 3. Yarn over 4. and pull loop through to create joining slip stitch. 5. Chain 1 to finish corner (not shown in photos).

6. Crochet first dc shell of current edge.

7. Insert hook, front to back, through next ch 1 space on previous square.

8. Yarn over

9. and pull loop through to create joining slip stitch.

2009 Karin Stiles.

madebyk.blogspot.com

10. Crochet next dc shell. 11. Repeat 7-10 until you reach ch 2 space at next corner. 12. Chain 1 to finish edge/start corner (not shown in photos). 13. Insert hook, front to back, through ch 2 space at corner.

14. Yarn over

15. and pull loop through to create joining slip stitch. 16. Continue around remaining edges, starting with a tc shell in the ch 2 corner space.

Finished Edge, joined as you went!

2009 Karin Stiles.

madebyk.blogspot.com