Cutting Section :

REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC CUTTING

The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting: 1. Precision of fabric cutting : Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting accuracy. 2. Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective. 3. Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 3000C. If the fabric contains synthetic fibres e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edge may result in the fabric. As because most of those fibers melt at around 2500C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritation during use of garments. To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken: 1. Reduce the height of the lay; 2. 3. 4. Reduce the cutting speed; Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval; Spraying silicon lubricant on the knife during cutting.

4. Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting

Cutting Techniques:
1) Manually Powered Knife:
Rotary blade- small instrument, electrically operated octagonal blade, very sharp edge, grinding wheel
attached, fabric should be clamped before cutting. Suitable for relatively gentle curve cutting & for less ply height .

Straight bladeStraight reciprocating blade of upto 13" height and 0.5" width could be sharpened by attached grinding wheel. Most commonly used, could be used for larger depth of fabric, high cutting speed, sharp corners could be cut; but blade deflection occurs and higher the depth of fabric greater the possibility of deflection

Band knifeEndless loop of flexible blade, one side sharpened, thinner than straight knife, machine stationary whereas the fabric moves, much more accurate cut for smaller parts, suitable for cutting sharp corners. Not suitable for large parts, more fabric wastage as block piece of fabric is required; workload is high due to stationary cutting machine.

Die cuttersuitable for smaller garment parts like shoulder pads, very accurate for sharp corners & circular patterns. Not suitable for larger parts, difficulty in producing dies (labour, time), higher fabric wastage due to use of block pieces.

2) Computerized Technique

Knife cutter Laser cutter Water jet Plasma jet

Types of Fabric Spreading:

The spreads can be of two basic types: 1. Flat spreads- all plies are of the same length. 2. Stepped spreads- this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in one step having the same length. A stepped spread is generally used when the quantities to be cut precludes the use of a flat spread. The cut order plan details the colors and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed.

Requirements of Spreading Process:

1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width. 2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- Any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided. 3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- All faces up, all faces down, face to face etc. 4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.

5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- Polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife. 6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- These cause defect in garments due to variation in dimension. 7. Checks and stripes should be matched. Quality Control in Sample Section:

Maintaining buyer Specification standard Checking the sample and its different issues Measurements checking Fabric color, gsm, Fastness etc properties required checking Spi and other parameter checking

Quality Control in Marker Making:

To check notch or drill mark Fabric width must be higher than marker width Fabric length must be higher than marker length Matching of green line Check pattern size and dimension Matching of check and stripe taking into consideration Considering garments production plan Cutting table length consideration Pattern direction consideration

Quality Control in Fabric Spreading:

Fabric spreading according to correct alignment with marker length and width Maintain requirements of spreading Matching of check and stripe Lay contains correct number of fabric ply Correct Ply direction To control the fabric splicing Tension control

Quality Control in Fabric Cutting:

The dimension of the pattern and the cut piece should be same and accurate Cut edge should be smooth and clean Notch should be cut finely Drill hole should made at proper place No yarn fraying should occur at cut edge Avoid blade deflection Maintain cutting angle More skilled operator using

Thread Use In Different Machine: Machine Type

Plain/Auto Plain M/C

Thread Type
1 needle Thread 1 Bobbin Thread Two Needle Two bobbins 2 Needle Thread 2 Looper Thread

Double Needle M/c

Over Lock

Cylinder Bed

3 Needle Thread 1 Spreader Thread 1 looper Thread 3 Needle Thread 1 Spreader Thread 1 looper Thread

Flat bed

Bed 1. 2. 3.

Different Between Cylinder Bed & Flat Bed: Flat Bed Hem can not make Piping mechanism is available Top stitch can not done.

Cylinder

Hem can make Piping mechanism is not available Top stitch can done