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Portugal is a quieter, calmer place than its exuberant neighbour, Spain. But its far from
dull. Thanks to the countrys relative geographic isolation, Portugal has retained a strong
and fascinating sense of identity and culture. In rural areas you still see women carrying
shopping on their heads and, despite the increase in tourism, there are relatively few Tinseltown-style attractions or large hotel chains. More importantly, the coffee is still the best in
Europe and its not served in Styrofoam with cinnamon on top. The economic base is very
traditional as well, based largely on fishing, wine and textiles. The flipside is that, although
EU funding has vastly improved the infrastructure, Portugal is still a relatively poor country.
At least Portugals brand new president is good at arithmetic; ex-economist Cavaco Silva
has vowed to work with Prime Minister Scrates in making sweeping social, economic and
educational reforms. Gulp. Lets hope he leaves the architecture and landscape well alone;
this country is pure holiday-brochure clich, with ancient stone villages, proud historic cities, and coastal resorts that still look more like seafaring towns than Glitzville-by-the-sea.
Portugal is a bargain for travellers as well. You will find your euro goes a lot further here
than elsewhere in Mediterranean Europe.
FAST FACTS
Area 92,389 sq km
Capital Lisbon
Currency euro ();A$1 = 0.60; 100 = 0.67;
NZ$1 = 0.50; UK1 = 1.48; US$1 = 0.78
Famous for fado(songs), football, port,
azulejos (tiles), salted cod
Official language Portuguese
Phrases bom dia (hello), obrigado/a (thank
you), desculpe (excuse me), adeus (goodbye),
faz favor (please)
Population 10.4 million
Telephone codes international access code
%00; country code %34; reverse-charge
code %120
PORTUGAL
Portugal
Viana do Castelo
Guimares
ATLANTIC
A3-IP1
OCEAN
- OS
- M ON TES
Parque Natural do
Douro Internacional
Amarante
A4
Peso da
Rgua
DOU R O
Miranda
do Douro
Mirandela
Vila Real
Porto
SPAIN
Pocinho
River
ro Lamego
Dou
La Fregenada
B E IR
A
A1-IP1-E01
Vilar Formoso
Pampilhosa
Parque
a Natural
a d a da Serra
rr re l da Estrela
Conimbriga
Lous
Leiria
Batalha Ftima
Nazar
Alcobaa
Ericeira
Mafra
Parque Natural
Sintra
de Sintra-Cascais
Queluz
Cascais
Estoril
Monsanto
Parque Natural do
Tejo Internacional
Tomar
Rio Tejo
Cceres
Tagus Rive
UR
A1-IP1-E80
Castelo de Vide
Marvo
Parque Natural
da Serra de
So Mamede
Portalegre
Santarm
O
EJ
EJ
T
R IB A
Vila Franca
de Xira
AL
LISBON
LE
Badajoz
Estremoz
TO
E90
Vila Viosa
Arraiolos
A6-IP7-E90
A2
vora
Setbal
Monsaraz
Reguengos
de Monsaraz
Parque
Natural da
Arrbida Reserva
Natural
do Esturio
do Sado
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
A8
IX
Ciudad Rodrigo
Castelo Branco
AD
bidos
IR
BA
Entroncamento
Guarda
E80
Gouveia
Manteigas
Penhas da Sade
Covilh
Torre
(1993m)
Seia
Buaco
Forest
Coimbra
Figueira da Foz
AL
TA
Viseu
Aveiro
Luso
TR
Parque
Natural
do Alvo
Chaves
S
Es e
t
Montalegre
Caldas do
de Lima
Gers
Braga
Barcelos
Parque Natural
de Montesinho
Bragana
E82
Verin
I
a N H
O
Lim Ponte
Portugal has had a bouncy history of occupation and strife, stretching back to 700
BC when the Celts arrived on the Iberian
Peninsula, followed by the Phoenicians,
Greeks, Romans and Visigoths.
HISTORY
Arcos de
er
Valdevez Riv
100 km
60 miles
Parque Nacional
da Peneda-Gers
Valena do Minho
TO
LI
One week Devote three days to Lisbon, including a night of fado (songs) in the Alfama and a trip to Belm. Then sidestep
for a day in sumptuous Sintra. Carry on
to Porto for two days, enjoying the tipple
at the port lodges across the river. Wind
up your week with a day in bidos, so
pretty it was a royal wedding gift.
Two weeks The same as for one week, plus
two days in Unesco-listed vora followed
by a day in magical hilltop Monsaraz.
Next, hit the road south to the Algarve
(including a day each in Tavira, Lagos
and Silves).
0
0
PORTUGAL
EM
ITINERARIES
HOW MUCH?
P O R T U G A L 621
B EIRA
www.lonelyplanet.com
ES TR
HIGHLIGHTS
www.lonelyplanet.com
IP2
IP8
Sines
Beja
A2-IP1-EO1
BA
IX
Parque Natural do
Sudoeste Alentejano
e Costa Vicentina
Serpa
A LE
IC1
Monchique A
Silves
Lagos
Sagres
LGA RV E
N125
Albufeira
NTEJ O
Parque
Natural
do Vale do
Guadiana
Vila Real de
Santo Antnio
A22-IP1-EO1
Faro
Tavira
SPAIN
Seville
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
620 P O R T U G A L H i g h l i g h t s
www.lonelyplanet.com
PEOPLE
The Land
Portugals population of 10.4 million excludes the estimated three million Portuguese living abroad, but includes the
considerable number of African and Brazilian immigrants. Since May 2004 there has
also been an influx of new immigrants from
central and Eastern Europe. Foreign residents number approximately 225,000, and
are primarily northern Europeans seeking
the sunshine of the Algarve.
RELIGION
Portugal is around 95% Roman Catholic;
other Christian denominations make up
much of the remaining population, as well as
many Muslims and a small number of Jews.
ARTS
Music
The best-known form of Portuguese music
is the melancholy, nostalgic songs called
fado (literally fate) said to have originated
from troubadour and African slave songs.
Architecture
Unique to Portugal is Manueline architecture, named after its patron King Manuel I
(14951521). It symbolises the zest for discovery of that era and is hugely flamboyant,
characterised by fantastic spiralling columns
and elaborate carving and ornamentation.
Visual Arts
Portugals stunning painted azulejo tiles
coat contemporary life, covering everything
from houses to churches. The art form dates
from Moorish times and reached a peak in
the late 19th century when the Art Nouveau
and Art Deco movements provided fantastic faades and interiors. Lisbon has its very
own azulejo museum (p627).
ENVIRONMENT
Portugal is one of Europes smallest countries, stretching just 563km from north to
south and 220km at its widest eastwest
point. The country is bordered on the north
and east by Spain and on the south and west
by the Atlantic.
Wildlife
Portugal is home to the most endangered
big cat in the world, the Iberian lynx, as well
as a rare beast in the dog family, the rustycoloured Iberian wolf. However, you are
far more likely to come across foxes, deer,
otters or even wild boars. Bird enthusiasts
will be kept very happy with a vast range of
species, including storks, eagles and among
the wetland species, flamingos, spoonbills
and egrets, which can be seen in natural
parks like Ria Formosa (p638).
National Parks
Portugal has 25 natural parks, nature reserves and protected landscape areas. These
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Environmental Issues
Portugal has been suffering from its worst
drought in decades with devastating losses
to livestock and agriculture. In many parts
of the country, January 2005 was the driest
January in more than 100 years. Travellers
are urged to be prudent in hotels: dont
send your towels for a daily wash and take
showers, never a bath. Continuing on a
watery theme, the criticism concerning the
2002 Alqueva dam near Beja continues. To
create the dam, Europes largest artificial
lake, over a million oak and olive trees were
cut down and some 160 rocks covered with
Stone Age drawings were submerged. On a
more positive note, Portugal has fast come
up to speed in the recycling department
with colour-coded receptacles in every
town and city.
L I S B O N 623
LISBON
pop 720,000
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
622 P O R T U G A L Pe o p l e
www.lonelyplanet.com
www.lonelyplanet.com
L I S B O N 625
lo
be
Re
d
Av
Saldanha
Av da
Ponte
nt
o
Sa
te
an
In
f
Av
da
da Alju
Calada
Av Almi
rante
Per Av Fo
eira nte
de s
Me
lo
37
ia
To Setbal
To Barreiro
To Cacilhas;
Almada
menta
Chelas
4
III
XABREGAS
20
SLEEPING
Casa de So Mamede.................. 24
Lisboa Camping Parque Municipal..25
Posadas de Portugal..................... 26
Pousada da Juventude..................27
er
iv )
s R ejo
gu io T
Ta (R
D5
B4
C5
H1
EATING
Beira Mar......................................28 F5
Bem Belem...................................29 B6
Centro de Arte Moderna............(see 14)
Confeitaria de Belm....................30 B6
Jardim do Marisco........................31 F5
Lautasco.......................................32 F5
Real Fbrica................................. 33 D5
To Montijo;
Seixal
Ponte 25
de Abril
ceanos
Av In
so
SANTA
APOLNIA
Martim
Moniz
38
Restauradores
GRAA
Rossio
Rossio
Igreja da So
3
Vicente de Fora
BAIRRO
Santa Apolnia
28
ALTO BaixaCASTELO
(Metro Station due
Chiado
to open 2007/8)
32
BAIXA
31
Rua da Pi
Av C
id
on
Alcntar
ed
o
Pe
n
do
da
tra
Es
scob
ertas
s De
Av d
a
Alf
To Trafaria
To Porto
Brando
qu
23
Intendente
a nd
Av d
North-South
Railway Line
35
Doca de
Av de Braslia
12
Avenida
Do
19
Alcntara-Mar
ira
Rua da Junque
33
24
Chelas
Cais do Sodr
AJUDA
40
Rato
ESTRELA
LAPA
29 30
18
Av
Albuqu er
uta
15
17
1
e Ce
ra
do
Restelo
BELM
11
26
Av
To Cruz
Quebrada (3km);
Oeiras (9km);
Estoril (20km);
Cascais (23km)
ALCNTARA
res
Anjos
6
8
21
oa
o de
Av d
RESTELO
Me
d'gua
34
is S
Marqus
de Pombal
Dua
Av Eng
Mora
zinh
ou
lvito
do A
eco
rte Pach
Rua
ra
da
sta
Bela
Vista
Olaias
Alameda
Av
Est
adei
da M
Rua do Alto
do Duque
Av Almira
nte Gago
SALDANHA
Parque
Av
Ilh
aC
o
Areeiro
Picoas
CRIL-IC17
ica
Arroios
To Estoril (23km);
Cascais (26km)
sd
Estrada de
Livres
10
So Sebastio
CAMPOLIDE
A5-IC15
me
39
N117
25
Go
22
Doca dos
Olivais
iq
u
de
16
14
Olivais
Gare do
Oriente
nr
Praa de Espanha
ua
hal
da Amr
Av Joo
He
rec
om
Av
da
OLIVAIS
NORTE
te
D
to
Berlim
fa
n
edu
Campo
Pequeno
na
Ber
ica
Av da Repbl
ro
Av 5 de Outub
Aqu
Parque
Florestal
de Monsanto
To The
Algarve
(240km)
Espera
na
PARQUE
DAS NAES
13
Jardim
Zoolgico
Ma
Entrecampos
Poente
Entrecampos
Av de Boa
Cabo Ruivo
Reis
al
Ma
Av
IC19
Roma
Unidos
de
Av de
Coutinho
ad
s Arm
For
as
tvel
s
Av dos Estado
Entrecampos
as
Laranjeiras
Alvalade
Cidade
Universitria
Be
ns
ndes
Av do Santo Co
nd
Gra
Alto dos
Moinhos
To Queluz (5km);
Almornos (20km);
Sintra (28km)
po
Alameda da
Universidade
do
In
ixe
Te
Matos
ton de
or
lN
era
Colgio
en
Militar-Luz v G
A
36
Av
Lu
sia
da
Cam
rec
h
Av
ira
Carnide
H
27
fre
IC1
Campo
Grande
Al
a dos O
Pontinha
Dr
fante
Dom
Hen
riqu
Aeroporto
de Lisboa
To Ponte de Vasco
da Gama (1.5km);
Santarm (60km); A1
to Porto (305km)
1 km
0.5 miles
Alamed
D
To Torres
Vedras (40km);
Caldas da Rainha
(88km)
Av
ade
do Porto
A
INFORMATION
Ask Me Lisboa............................... 1 A6
Ask Me Lisboa................................ F1
2
Ask Me Lisboa................................3 F5
Australian Embassy......................(see 6)
Automvel Clube de Portugal
(ACP).........................................4 E4
British Hospital...............................5 D5
Canadian Embassy..........................6 E4
French Embassy.............................7 D5
Instituto Portugus da Juventudo...8 E4
Irish Embassy.................................9 D5
Movijovem...................................10 E4
Netherlands Embassy...................11 D5
UK Embassy & Consulate.............12 D5
US Embassy.................................13 D3
Av
D3
A6
D3
A6
A6
D5
G4
H2
H2
A6
ENTERTAINMENT
Amoreiras Cinema....................... 34
Blues Caf.................................... 35
Colombo Cinema......................... 36
Dock's Club................................. 37
Lux...............................................38
D4
C6
C2
D6
F5
TRANSPORT
Arco do Cego Bus Terminal..........39 E3
Tejo Bike...................................... 40 B6
PORTUGAL
0
0
LISBON
Av Dom Joo II
PORTUGAL
624 L I S B O N
www.lonelyplanet.com
ORIENTATION
Emergency
Police station (Map pp628-9; Rua Capelo)
Tourist police post (Map pp628-9; Rossia train station)
Medical Services
Money
Cota Cmbios (Map pp628-9; %213 220 470; Rossio
41) One of the best exchange rates in town.
Post
Main Post office (Map pp628-9; Praa do Comrcio;
h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Handles
poste restante collection.
Post office (Map pp628-9; Praa dos Restauradores;
h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) This second
branch is opposite the ICEP tourist office.
Telephone
Portugal Telecom (Map pp628-9; Rossio 68) Telephone
booths available and phonecards for sale.
INFORMATION
Tourist Information
Bookshops
Discount Cards
The Lisboa Card is a cost-saving pass that
covers travel on the metro, Carris buses,
some trains, all trams and lifts, as well as
admission to 28 museums, historic buildings and other places of interest. Theres
also discounted entry to about 40 other attractions. You can buy the Lisboa Card at
the airport, tourist offices and from travel
agencies. The 24-/48-/72-hour versions cost
13.50/23/28.
Internet Access
Cyber Bica (Map pp628-9; %213 225 004; Rua Duques de
Bragana; per hr 3; hnoon-2am Mon-Fri, 7pm-2am Sat)
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SIGHTS
Lisbon has an enviable roll call of sights
that can be explored by foot. Alternatively,
hop on the funicular, tram or metro. Admission is usually half-price for children,
students and seniors, and free for everyone
on Sundays.
Alfama
This ancient district resembles a medieval
blockbuster set with its moody maze of
twisted alleys and steeply slanted streets.
The terrace at Largo das Portas do Sol provides
the souvenir snapshot of the city.
Casa do Fado (Map pp628-9; %218 823 470; Largo do
L I S B O N S i g h t s 627
A must for old salts is the Museu da Marinha (Maritime Museum; Map pp624-5; %213 620 019;
erage of the history of fado from its workingclass roots to a recreated fado house.
Dating from Visigothic times, Castelo de
So Jorge (Map pp628-9; %218 800 620; adult/child
3/1.50; h9am-9pm Mar-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb) sits
high above the city with spine-tingling
views. If you cant hack the hike, take bus
37 from Rossio or tram 28 from Largo Martim Moniz.
adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 5pm OctMar), with all kinds of seafaring parapher-
Belm
This quarter 6km west of the Rossio is a
grand canvas reflecting Portugals Golden
Age and is home to Lisbons most emblematic religious building. It has a mellow vibe
with chairs on squares and reputedly the
best pastis de nata (custard tarts) in the
country (see p632).
To reach Belm take the train, bus 28
from Praa do Comrcio, or tram 15 from
Praa da Figueira.
Mosteiro dos Jernimos (Map pp624-5; %213 620
034; Praa do Imprio; adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-5pm
Tue-Sun) dates from 1496 and is a soaring ex-
Saldanha
The celebrated Museu Calouste Gulbenkian (Map
pp624-5; %217 823 461; Ave de Berna 45; adult/child 3/
free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mPraa de Espanha) has
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
626 L I S B O N O r i e n t a t i o n
Bookw . l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m www.lonelyplanet.com
w w accommodation online at
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0
CENTRAL LISBON
R do A
lecrim
R da Pa
lma
Graa
aria
our
aM
Moniz
ar tim
oA
Rd
Rd
rco
da
oeiro
oL
im
ALFAMA
R So
Julio
Lg
da S
R dos
Bacalh
R de So Joo
31
oeiro
Av da Ribeir
a das Naus
P do
Comrcio
om
eD
ant
f
Av In
Terreiro do Pao
(due to open 2007/8)
Cais do
Sodr
17
Campo das
Cebolas
R da Alfndega
8
9
R de So Tom
elo
ast
oC
R Santa Cruz d
am
Rd
R da Emenda
res
R Regedo
r
Sculo
Sorian
o
R da
Rosa
R Luz
R do Carmo
im
R do
d
An
lo
R da M
oed
to
ste
dores
rreeiros
R das Flo
ti
ive
ara
Rd
l
de e Ce
Sou cilio
sa
Ol
So
M
te
Ja
s
San
do
La gares
s
do
R de
M
on
ias
lar
R das O
Costa do Ca
a
adalen
R da M
iros
Fanque
R dos
R dos Co
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P do
Municipal
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R do A
ed
51
es
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)
7/8
200 nha
pen Mari
a
nriq
He
o
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(du
ca
Do
73
SLEEPING
Prices listed are high season (July to midSeptember) when it is advisable to reserve
ahead.
67
River
Tagus Tejo)
(Rio
68
To Cacilhas
eS
TOURS
Lg de So
Martinho
omrci
R Vitor Cordon
CASTELO
66
R do C
P do
Duque da
Terceira
ata
onceio
R de C
Rd
Alcntara
19
36
R da Pr
BAIXA
18
R dos
Cais do
Sodr
xo
59
28
BaixaChiado
R Capelo
10
56
lar
ta
R Augus
pateiros
mo
C de Sant'ana
BaixaChiado
R Garrett
no
ima
do L
33
32
su
R da As
onte
de P
Lg de
Rodrigues
de Freitas
25
30
72
u
arq
P da
Figueira
a Justa
R Sant
Lg do
Terreirinho
Costa do Castelo
sga
R Bete
Crucifi
48
Re
34
Largo
Martim
Moniz
27
16
R dos Sa
ho
os
42
64
63
4
P Dom
Pedro IV
(Rossio)
R urea
R do
Av 24 de Jul
39
Rd
50
R Ivens
bro
e Dezem
Rd
P
Dom
Luis I
to
R Dom Luis
Lg do
Carmo
Lg do
Baro de
Quintela
lo
35
P de
Lus Cames
Pau
An
38
11
47
Rossio
49
R Serpa Pinto
eS
inidade
da Tr
RN
Mise ricrdia
R da
54
to
69
Rd
43
45
55
61
Lore
44
15
Tv da Espera
R do
to
an
aS
d
as
cias
de Not
Tv P Cidade
41
C do
Duque
ara
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Lg de
Domingos
Rossio
t
lcn
oA
C do C
53
70
60
20
23
7
14
52
BAIRRO ALTO
29
edr
D3
C4
D3
D3
22
R da Atalaia
DRINKING
A Ginjinha................................. 47
Caf a Brasileira......................... 48
Caf Nicola................................ 49
Caf Vertigo.............................. 50
ort
R Luisa
46
R Dirio
E3
F3
D3
C3
E4
C1
D3
B5
B1
C3
D3
C3
D3
C3
B2
as
V
24
odi
T
o P
EATING
A Outra Face da Lua..................32
Arco do Castelo..........................33
Casa Suia................................. 34
Cervejaria da Trinidade.............. 35
Gandhi Palace............................36
La Caff.....................................37
Leo d'Ouro.............................. 38
Mercado da Ribeira....................39
Os Tibetanos..............................40
Pap Acorda...............................41
Pingo Doce Supermarket........... 42
Restaurante Floresta da Cidada..43
Restaurante O Sol...................... 44
Restaurante Sinal Vermelho.......45
Rosa da Rua...............................46
ria
dro
57
12
Restauradores
RS
SLEEPING
Hotel Anjo Azul..........................20 nB3
R Sa
Hotel Britania.............................21 C1
Penso Globo.............................22 C3
Penso Imperial......................... 23 D2
R da
Boav
Penso Londres..........................24 C2
ista
Penso Norte..............................25 E3
Penso Residencial 13 da Sorte... B1
26
Penso Residencial Gers............27 E3
Residencial Duas Naes............ 28 D4
Residencial Florescente.............. 29 D2
Residencial Insulana................... 30 D3
S Guest House..........................31 F4
aip
sT
RD
65 om Pe
osa
R da R
P dos
Restauradores
da
Bento
INFORMATION
Ask Me Lisboa...........................(see 7)
Cota Cmbios.............................. 1 D3
Cyber Bica................................... 2 C4
English Bookshop.........................3 A2
Farmcia Estcio.......................... 4 D3
Gay & Lesbian Community Centre.. E1
5
German Embassy.........................6 D1
ICEP Tourist Office.......................7 C2
Lisboa Welcome Center............... 8 D5
Main Post Office......................... 9 D5
Police Station............................. 10 D4
Portugal Telecom....................... 11 D3
Post Office ................................ 12 D2
Spanish Embassy........................13 C1
Lg
Tourist Police Post...................... 14 C2
de Jesus
Web Caf.................................. 15 C3
P do
Principe Real
lria
aG
o d
cei
on
RC
La
a ro
cn
ica
P
as
lit
1
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Ptria
Po
da
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71
Rd
Na
g
R da Ale
R de S
sa
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pr
la
Jos
n
cio
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Rd
Praa da
Alegria
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37
58
Rd
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ad
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Lib
Jardim
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T
do
Rd
de
13
al 62
al
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Av
rc
RA
RM
26
Avenida
M
oS
da
rtires
os M
po d
Cam
40
ed
am
500 m
0.3 miles
Cardoso
R do Salitre
L I S B O N T o u r s 629
21
o
ilh
ast
R Antn
io Maria
RC
PORTUGAL
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D2
C4
C3
C5
B2
C1
C5
C3
C3
A2
SHOPPING
Fabrica Sant'Ana............................63
Grandes Armazens do Chiado........ 64
Moy Garrafeira...............................65
Santos Ofcios................................66
C4
D4
B2
E4
To Cacilhas
TRANSPORT
Cais de Alfndega Ferry Terminal...67
Cais do Sodr Ferry Terminal......... 68
Elevador da Bica.............................69
Elevador da Glria..........................70
Elevador de Lavra...........................71
Elevador de Santa Justa..................72
Terreiro do Pao Ferry Terminal......73
To Seixal
E5
C6
B4
C2
D2
D3
E5
To Barreiro
PORTUGAL
628 L I S B O N C e n t r a l L i s b o n
raved about this cheery place with its charismatic owner and spotless comfortablyworn rooms.
Residencial Insulana (Map pp628-9; %213 423
131; www.insulana.cjb.net; Rua da Assuno 32; s/d 45/50;
a; mBaixa) Ignore the shabby entrance, this
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old-fashioned appeal with large, high-ceiling, carpeted rooms. Those on the 4th floor
have camera-clicking views of the city.
Casa de So Mamede (Map pp624-5; %213 963 166;
fax 213 951 896; Rua Escola Politcnica 159; s/d 75/80; a)
EATING
Greater Lisbon
Lisboa Camping Parque Municipal (Map pp624-5;
town. Take bus 43 from Cais do Sodr.
Pousada da Juventude (Map pp624-5; %218 920
890; Via de Moscavide; dm/d 15/42; mPicoas) This
place is the pick of the hostels, with good
rooms plus restaurant, cooking and laundry
facilities.
Pedro IV 96-104; snacks from 3; hclosed Mon; mRossio) A wood-panelled classic with adorably-
Pingo Doce (Map pp628-9; Rua de Dezembro 73; mRossio) A good central supermarket, with a
handy health-food shop with vegetarian
buffet right next door.
Avenida de Liberdade
Penso Residencial 13 da Sorte (Map pp628-9;
%213 539 746; www.trezedasorte.no.sapo.pt; Rua do
Salitre 13; s/d/t 40/50/60; a; mAvenida) A popular
L I S B O N E a t i n g 631
Avenida de Liberdade
Os Tibetanos (Map pp628-9; %213 142 038; Rua do
Liberdade 129B; mains 10; h12.30-3.30pm & 8pm11pm Tue-Sun; a ; m Restauradores) Upbeat
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
630 L I S B O N E a t i n g
Belm
Confeitaria de Belm (Map pp624-5; %213 637 423;
Rua de Belm 86-88) A classically tiled and elegant
caf with reputedly the best pastis de nata in
Portugal. Delicious!
Bem Belm (Map pp624-5; %213 648 768; Rua
Vieira Portuense 72; mains 8; h closed Sun) This
popular meet-and-greet place serves simple
calorie-stoking food including mixed kebabs and squid with shrimps. Eat al fresco
overlooking the park.
DRINKING
Lisbon delivers the goods for caffeine and
calorie junkies with sumptuous Art Deco
cafs, particularly around Bairro Alto and
Rossio. The bars in Alcntara and Oriente
areas attract a well-heeled set while Alfama
has plenty of gluggable choices, including
moody low-lit places for cocktail hour.
Caf Nicola (Map pp628-9; %213 460 579; Rossio 24;
h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 10am-7pm Sun;
mRossio) A world apart from the cookie-
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Live Music
Adega Machado (Map pp628-9; %213 224 640; Rua do
Norte 91; h8.30pm-3am Tue-Sun) Earthy and authentic, run by Rita, goddaughter of the legendary Amalia Rodrigues; the walls are papered
with signed photos of fado enthusiasts
including Kirk Douglas.
Adega do Ribatejo (Map pp628-9; %213 468 343;
Rua Dirio de Notcias 23; h8.30pm-12.30am Mon-Sat) A
dark atmospheric place with high-standard
nightly fado.
Hot Clube de Portugal (Map pp628-9; %213 467
369; Praa da Alegria 39; h10pm-2am Tue-Sat; mAvenida) Hot, sweaty and packed with nightly
Nightclubs
ENTERTAINMENT
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L I S B O N S h o p p i n g 633
Cinemas
Lisbon has dozens of cinemas, including
the multiscreen Amoreiras (Map pp624-5; %213
878 752) and Colombo (Map pp624-5; %217 113
222; mColgio Militar-Luz), both located within
shopping centres.
Sport
Lisbons football teams are Benfica, Belenenses and Sporting. Euro 2004 led to the
upgrading of the 65,000-seat Estdio da Luz
and the construction of a new 54,000-seat
Estdio Nacional. Bullfights are staged at
Campo Pequeno, recently reopened after
extensive reforms, between April and October. Tickets for both sports are available at
ABEP ticket kiosk (Map pp628-9; Praa dos Restauradores; mRestauradores).
SHOPPING
Shopping is fun here, with plenty of idiosyncratic small shops along with glossy
boutiques and shopping malls. Antique
shops are mainly in the Bairro Alto dis-
Bus
A dozen different companies, including Renex
(%218 940 285), operate from Gare do Oriente.
The Arco do Cego terminal (Map pp6245)
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
632 L I S B O N D r i n k i n g
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country.
Train
GETTING AROUND
METRO
Bicycle
Taxi
AROUND LISBON
Public Transport
A 3.70/6.90/13.40 ticket known as the 7
Colinas is good for one/three/five days on
all buses, trams, metros and funiculars.
FERRY
Car, bicycle and passenger ferries leave frequently from the Cais do Sodre ferry terminal
(Map pp6289) to Cacilhas (0.60, 10 minutes), a transfer point for some buses to
Setbal. From Terreiro do Pao terminal
catamarans zip across to Monijo (1.65,
every 30 minutes) and Seixal (1.35, every
30 minutes).
Sintra
pop 20,000
Lord Byron called this hilltop town a glorious Eden and, although best appreciated
at dusk when the coach tours have left, it
is a magnificent place. Less than an hour
west of Lisbon, Sintra is a twinkling tiara of
stunning palaces and manors surrounded
by lush green countryside. The traditional
summer retreat of Portugals kings, Sintra
is hilly, so ladies leave your high heels at
home.
L I S B O N A r o u n d L i s b o n 635
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Although the whole town resembles an historical theme park there are several compulsory eye-catching sights. Most are free
or discounted with the Lisboa Card (see
p626).
The Palcio Nacional de Sintra (%219 106
840; adult/child 4/2; h10am-5.30pm Thu-Tue) is a
dizzy mix of Moorish and Gothic architecture with twin chimneys that dominate
the town.
The Museu do Brinquedo (%219 242 171; Rua
Visconde de Monserrate; adult/child 3/1.50; h10am6pm Tue-Sun) offers serious playtime potential
SLEEPING
GETTING AROUND
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
634 L I S B O N G e t t i n g A r o u n d
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Cascais
pop 33,255
Setbal
pop 114,500
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T H E A L G A R V E Fa r o 637
with a good choice of healthy grub, including quiche, tofu, nut rissoles and salads.
O Beco (%265 524 617; Largo da Misericordia 24;
mains 10) Locals rate this restaurant as one of
the citys best. Enjoy a special seafood moment and choose one of the lobster dishes.
Xica Bia (%265 522 559; Av Luisa Todi 131; mains from
10) Xica Bia has an elegant dinner-for-two
setting with barrel-vault ceiling, exposed
bricks and chandeliers. The menu includes
plenty of thrills, including an exemplary
arroz de marisco (shellfish rice).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
THE ALGARVE
The Algarve is holiday-brochure heaven
with superb beaches, sweeping golf courses
and year-round sunshine. Although overdevelopment has blighted parts of the
coast-hugging strip venture inland and
youll land solidly in Portugal again. Algarve highlights include the forested slopes
of Monchique, the fortified village of Silves
and windswept, historic Sagres. Faro is the
regional capital.
FARO
pop 58,000
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
636 L I S B O N A r o u n d L i s b o n
To
Ourique
(38km)
To Sines
(82km);
Lisbon
(173km)
N266
Praia de
Odeceixe
Almodvar
IC1
N120
N2
Alcoutim
A2-IP1-EO1
N124
So Bartolomeu
de Messines
Pena
Monchique
N124
N266
N268
N120
Carrapateira
N124
Portimo
Silves
N270
Alt
o
ir
Alfambras
Ameixial
e
ld
Ca
Praia da
Bordeira
So Marcos
da Serra
N267 S e r r a d e M o n c
Caldas de
Praia da
Arrifana
do
Aljezur
rr
Salir
Odeleite
Cachopo
To Seville
(146km)
N397
N2
Castro Marim
Barranco do Velho
N396
Tunes
N122
River
Martim
Longo
Se
Foia Monchique
Alferce N267
(902m)
e
Marmelete
iqu
SPAIN
N122
Odeceixe
Rogil
20 km
12 miles
To Beja
(128km)
To Castro
Verde
(32km)
Vila Real de
Santo Antnio
So Brs
A22-IP1-EO1
de Alportel
Ayamonte
Tavira
Cacela Velha
Santa Luzia
Esti
Ilha de Tavira
Loul
N270
Sa Joa
Lagos
Carvoeiro
da Venda
Alvor
Vilamoura
N125 Luz
N125
Armao
Quarteira
Praia do
Moncarapacho
Praia da
de Pra Albufeira
Salema
Fuzeta
Aeroporto
Barril
Praia
N268
Rocha Praia da
de Faro Faro
da Luz
Praia da Vale
Olho
Praia da
Meia Carvoeiro
Falesia do Lobo
Praia do Praia
Ilha de
Cape St Sagres Salema
Pinho
Sagres Praia do
Armona
Vincent
Ilha de Faro
Point Martinhal
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Ilha da
Parque Natural
Barreta
da Ria Formosa
Vila do
Bispo
Lagoa
N125
Faro airport has both domestic and international flights (see p658).
From the bus station, just west of the
centre, there are at least six daily express
coaches to Lisbon (15, four hours), plus
several slower services, and frequent buses
to other coastal towns.
The train station is a few minutes walk
west of the bus station. Five trains run daily
to Lisbon (18.50, five hours).
Getting Around
The airport is 6km from the centre. Buses
14 and 16 run into town until 9pm, costing
1.35 for a single ticket. A taxi costs about
12 from the airport to the town centre.
TAVIRA
pop 12,500
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LAGOS
pop 25,400
T H E A L G A R V E L a g o s 639
Sleeping
Pousada da Juventude (%282 761 970; Rua Lanarote de Freitas 50; dm/d 16/45; i) Up there with
the best. Rooms are airy and light, plus
theres internet access and a garden with
hammocks.
Rubi Mar (%282 180 678; www.rubi-mar.com; 2nd
fl, Rua de Barroca 70; s/d 45/50, with shared bathroom
30/45) English-American run with pleasant
Eating
Restaurante Piri-Piri (%282 763 803; Rua Lima Leito
15; mains 8) A good choice serving a tasty
cataplana (fish stew) and piri-piri chicken
or clams. If youre a fan, pick up a bottle of
the red-chilli wonder from one of the grans
at the market.
Taberna de Lagos (%282 084 250; 25 de Abril;
mains 8) This atmospheric former warehouse
has a menu of pizzas, pastas, salads and
vegetarian dishes. Live music accompanies
Sunday lunch.
PORTUGAL
0
0
THE ALGARVE
a
dian
Gua
PORTUGAL
638 T H E A L G A R V E Ta v i r a
Getting Around
Rent bicycles, mopeds and motorcycles
from Motor Ride (%289 761 720; Rua Jos Afonso
23; per day from 8.50).
MONCHIQUE
pop 6975
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The fort (adult/child 3/1.50; h10am-8.30pm MaySep, 10am-6.30pm Oct-Apr) has a 12-minute slide
show on the history; Henry the Navigator
established his navigation school here and
primed the explorers who later founded the
Portuguese empire.
Visit Europes southwestern-most point,
the Cabo de So Vicente (Cape St Vincent),
6km to the west. A solitary lighthouse
stands on this barren cape.
This coast is ideal for the surfing set; hire
windsurfers at sand-dune fringed Praia do
Martinhal.
The Scubado Diving Centre (%282 624 594;
www.scubado-algarve.com; Porto da Baleeira) organises diving trips daily at 10am and 3pm.
SILVES
pop 10,768
SAGRES
pop 1940
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
One of Portugals poorest regions, this central slice of the country has an outbackmeets-the-Med feel with its vast plains of
cattle and groves of olive trees and cork
oaks. Richly historic, it is scattered with
prehistoric remains and contains one of the
countrys most architecturally rich towns,
vora, as well as several spectacular walled
villages. There are fine local wines and, for
the more energetic, plenty of hiking and
skiing in the dramatic Beiras region.
VORA
pop 53,755
C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L v o r a 641
Sleeping
Residencial O Alentejo (%266 702 903; Rua Serpa
Pinto 74; s/d 30/45; na) A deeply traditional
house, complete with original mosaic-tiled
floors and gran on reception; the rooms
here are well-sized and everything works.
This is a good street for bars.
Residencial Diana (%266 702 008; www.residencial
diana.com; Rua Diogo Co 2-3; s/d 35/50; pa )
AUTHORS CHOICE
Penso Policarpo (% 266 702 424; www
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
640 T H E A L G A R V E M o n c h i q u e
0
0
VORA
oa
Aq
ue
du
Lg do
Cha das
Covas
ct
SLEEPING
Penso Policarpo........................6
Residencial Diana.......................7
Residencial O Alentejo...............8
Solar Monfalim..........................9
nd
ido
Aviz
aria
our
aM
Rd
rno
14
nve
oI
Rd
o
Can
18
17
R do
eis
sR
do
15 16
11
sus
enino Je
R do M
University
Lg de
Vila Flor
To Bus Station
(300m)
P da
Repblica
Jardim
Pblico
Parque
Infantil
Quartel
de Drages
To Train
Station
(700m)
Eating
Aqurio (%266 785 055; Rua de Valdevinos 7; mains
6) Vibrant little vegetarian restaurant with
just a few daily choices, including a vegan
option.
Mac
do Estevens
R Men
Hospital
EATING
Aqurio....................................10
11
Botequim da Mouraria..............
Caf Restaurante O Cruz.........12
Pane & Vino.............................13
Quarta-Feira............................14
To Beja
(78km)
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Drinking
In Club (%266 706 559; Rua do Escrivo da Cmara 16;
h8pm-1am Mon-Thu, 8pm-3am Fri & Sat) Hits its
stride post-dinner, attracting a mix of suits
and scruffs.
New York (% 266 705 675; Rua do Apstolo 4;
h8pm-2am Mon-Fri, 9pm-3am Sat) An after-hours
hang-out to perfect your morning hangover. Live music.
Pub O Trovador (%266 707 370; Rua da Mostardeira 4) A chilled-out setting attracting a
voguish clientele.
Tou a Ta (Rua do Calvrio 12-14) Packing them
in at weekends, this backstreet club has a
frazzled bar staff and fun-loving vibe.
do
DRINKING
In Club.....................................15
New York.................................16
Pub O Trovador.......................17
T'ou a Ta.................................18
na
rmo
Av Ma re chal Ca
P de
Touros
(Bullring)
de
sco
R Co
R da Repb ica
l
oeda
R da M
1
dores
rca
Me
os
do
Rd
un
im
Ra
do
R
hede
nde
us
De
Lg Alexandre
Lg do Marqus
Herculano
de Marialva
va
No
19
6
ro
R
b
4
utu
O
de
7
R5
P do
Lg da
13
Giraldo 10
Porta de
Moura
9
2
Lg da
da
Misericrdia
bar
R Miguel Bom
12
a
R Fri
P 1
de Maio
ra
de
to
R Serpa Pin
To Turaventur
(8km)
Ser
o
R Jo
C3
B3
A3
C3
da
INFORMATION
Cyber Centre..............................1 B3
Tourist Office.............................2 B3
Lisb
de
Av
To Estremoz
(46km)
200 m
0.1 miles
Va
la
To Bike Lab
(500m)
R de
PORTUGAL
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B3
B2
B3
C3
B2
A2
A2
B2
A2
TRANSPORT
Policarpo..................................19 B3
Getting Around
Bike Lab (%266 735 500; Centro Comercial da Vista
Alegre, Lote 14; hsummer only) rents out bicycles.
Policarpo (%266 746 970; www.policarpo-viagens.pt,
in Portuguese; Rua 5 de Outubro 63) organises city
tours and jaunts to megaliths and other
nearby attractions.
MONSARAZ
pop 977
C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L M o n s a r a z 643
ESTREMOZ
pop 15,400
Sights
Museu Municipal (%268 339 200; Largo D Dinis;
adult/child 1.10/free; h9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm TueSun), in a beautiful 17th-century almshouse,
specialises in fascinating pottery figurines,
including an entire Easter parade.
Vila Viosa, another marble town 17km
from Estremoz, is centred around the Palcio Ducal (%268 980 659; Terreiro do Paa; adult/child
5/free, armoury museum extra 2.50; h9am-1pm &
3-5.30pm Tue-Sun), the magnificent ancestral
PORTUGAL
642 C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L v o r a
On weekdays three buses run from Portalegre to Castelo de Vide (4.80, 20 minutes)
and two to Marvo (2.65, 45 minutes).
BIDOS
pop 10,809
955 561; Rua Direita 107; h10am-10pm May-Sep, 10am9pm Mon-Fri & 11.30am-6.30pm Sat-Sun Oct-Apr).
NAZAR
pop 16,000
The nearest train station, 6km away at Valado, is connected to Nazar by frequent
buses. Nazar has numerous bus connections to Lisbon (7.50, two hours).
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TOMAR
pop 17,000
COIMBRA
pop 150,000
C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L T o m a r 645
Information
Esp@o Internet (Praa 8 de Maio; h10am-8pm
Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun) Free wi-fi and internet access
for 30 minutes.
Municipal tourist office (%239 832 591; Praa Dom
Dinis)
Regional tourist office (%239 488 120; www
.turismo-centro.pt; Largo da Portagem) Has pamphlets and
cultural events information.
Tourist office (%239 833 202; Praa da Repblica)
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
644 C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L b i d o s
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Sleeping
Penso Santa Cruz (%239 826 197; Praa 8 de Maio; s/
d 25/32) Think threadbare large rooms in an
old building in a great position overlooking
one of the citys most dynamic squares.
Penso Residencial Larbelo (%239 829 092; fax
239 829 094; Largo da Portagem 33; s/d/t 25/40/55; a)
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C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L Lu s o & T h e B u a c o F o re s t 647
toric Coimbra line the walls at this nononsense eatery with its tasty specials including a memorable arroz de pato (duck
with rice).
Z Manel (%239 823 790; Beco do Forno 12; mains
7-10) Great food, huge servings and a zany
atmosphere with walls papered with diners
comments, cartoons and poems. Vegetarian
choices.
Italia (%239 838 863; Parque Dr Manuel Braga; mains
8-10) Expand your midriff at this excellent
Italian restaurant on the riverfront with
laden dishes of excellent pizza and pasta.
Entertainment
Coimbra-style fado is more cerebral than
the Lisbon variety, and its adherents
staunchly protective. Bar Diligncia (%239
827 667; Rua Nova 30; h6pm-2am) and Bomia Bar
(%239 834 547; Rua do Cabido 6; h8pm-2am) are
popular casas de fado.
Capella (%239 833 985; Capela de Nossa Senhora
de Victora, Rua Corpo de Deus, Largo da Victora) Housed
in a fabulous 14th-century former chapel
with a nightly fado show at 9.30pm (5).
Quebra Club (%239 836 038; Parque Verde do Mondego) Has live jazz at weekends.
Via Latina (%239 833 034; Rua Almeida Garrett 1)
Fires up to a steamy dance pit late at night.
SERRA DA ESTRELA
The forested Serra da Estrela has a raw
natural beauty and offers some of the countrys best hiking. This is Portugals highest
mainland mountain range (1993m), and
the source of its two great rivers: Mondego
River and Zzere River. The main park office
(%275 980 060; www.rt-serradaestrela.pt; Manteigas)
Sleeping
Pousada da Juventude (%/fax 275 335 375; penhas
@movijem.pt; Penhas da Sade; dm/d from 10/25) Located 10km above Covilh, this is an excellent hostel and good excursion base,
providing meals or kitchen facilities. Buses
come from Covilh (1.25, twice daily, July
to September only), or a taxi costs 12.
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
646 C E N T R A L P O R T U G A L T o m a r
PORTO
INTERNET ACCESS
THE NORTH
MONEY
The countrys northern region is countrybumpkin heaven with its rolling landscape
interspersed with dense forests and dramatic mountains. This region is also gluttony for wine-lovers: its the home of the
sprightly vinho verde wine, while its capital
Porto is named after another tipple and
is a beguiling combo of the medieval and
modern. Smaller towns similarly have a real
now-and-then feel including magnificent
Braga, the countrys religious heart, and the
folkloric capital of Viana do Castelo.
.com; Rua Alferes Malheiro 96) Doubles as an Amex
representative.
POST
TELEPHONE
can be sent.
TOURIST INFORMATION
ICEP tourist office (%222 057 514; fax 222 053 212;
pop 300,000
TRAVEL AGENCIES
P de Pedro
Nunes
los
nce
sco
R de J V a
lio
es
R G
o
Tel
21
rda
omba
uel B
R Mig
er
rein
oB
Rd
R Torrinha
R dos
P
Carlos
Alberto
26
Bragas
P da
Repblica
Rd
as
io
pa
55
P
General
Humberto 3
Delgado
6
16
P Dona
Filipa de
Lencastre 25
23
R Ceuta
24
R Fe
om
R Fo
rmosa
48
R Gue
de
Azevedo s
des T
rnan
ha
22
Tv da Fontin
R Dr Alfredo
Magalhes
31
R Gonalo Cristovo
so
10
R
MaAlfer
lhe es
iro
Trinidade
19
ira
Sa
46
D2
D3
E4
D3
D3
C2
E1
D3
D3
D3
D3
E2
D4
D3
E3
s Cabral
R lvare
Vit
R d
a
32
sa
alo
ista
ou
To Pousada da
Juventude (1.8km)
Bas
ues
Para
R do
ara P
eu
52
R da
Escola
To Braga
(57km)
27
P
Dom
R St Te
Joo I
resa
34
29
17
38
ida
e
1 R de Passos
20
T Alm
14
P
R Dr
30 Manuel
nuel
R do Carmo Gomes
To Campanh Train
II
P da
7
Teixeira
51
Station (600m);
Liberdade
56
42
9
Trilhos (5.5km)
eiro
R de 31 de Jan P da
33
Jardim
Clrigos
45 47
R da Madeir Batalha
es
R dos
do Palcio
a
red
15
Jardim da
de Cristal
57
de repa
So Bento
Lg do
R nt
Cordoaria
54
ao
E
Viriato
49
MASSARELOS
P
Restaur
RA
R da
le
Almeida
Her xandr
12
Campo dos
cula e
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s
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da Ptria
Ta
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de M
R
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RM
sF
R do So
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do
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R
Lg da
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has
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iver
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35
13
Fon
53
RIBEIRA
18 Pas das
RN
Lg
ov
el
S Joo
43 41
ad
Eiff
a
e 40
tavo
Alf
iqu
Gus
n
Av
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44
de 36
mH
ga
o
59
11 28
eira
te D
da Rib
fan
To Vila Nova de
Cais
R In
4
50
39
To Coimbra (123km);
Ponte de
Gaia (Port Wine
37 P da
Lisbon (320km)
Ribeira Dom Lus I
Lodges; 500m)
drig
R da Boav
eda
INFORMATION
SLEEPING
American Express...................(see 10)
Hotel Infante de Sagres............16
1
ICEP Tourist Office..................... E3
Hotel International...................17
Rd
18
Main Post Office....................... 2 D2
Penso Astora..........................
oP
edr
Municipal Tourist Office............3 D2
Penso Chique.........................19
oC
ruz
Netherlands Embassy.................4 D4
Penso Duas Naes................20
Ro
Portocmbios.............................5 D3 R Penso Estoril...........................21
22
Portweb.....................................6 D2
Penso Mira Norte....................
R Campo Alegre
Penso Po de Aucar..............23
Santo Antnio Hospital..............7 C3
e
Spanish Embassy........................8 E2
Penso Paulista........................24
dad
Pie
Telephone Office....................... 9 D3 R daPenso Porto Rico....................25
Top Atlntico........................... 10 D2
Penso S Marino....................26
27
Tourist Office.......................... 11 D4
Penso Santa Luzia...................
Pestana Porto Carlton..............28
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Residencial Dos Aliados............29
30
Museu do Vinho......................12 B3
Residencial Girassol...................
S............................................ 13 D4
Soares dos Reis National
Quintas
Museum..............................14 C3
RD
om
Torre dos Clrigos....................15 D3
Ma
Lg de
Ferreira
Lapa
tre
En
Lg da
Lapa
ve
Sil
da
inh
o
Ro
To Museu de Arte
Contempornea (2.3km)
ista
R da Boav
BOAVISTA
es da Liberd
ade
im
Gama R
to A
R Alber ia
Gouve
Jud
R Arnaldo
Rosri
R Santos Pousada
R Anselmo Braa
ncamp
RM
SHOPPING
s
Casa Janurio...........................48
Freita
es de
Av Rodrigu
Casa Oriental...........................49
CRAT...................................... 50
Garrafeira do Carmo................51
Via Catarina Shopping Centre..52
has
TRANSPORT
AV Minho..............................(see 55)
Alameda
Carlos Soares.........................(see 55)
das
Fontainhas
Funicular..................................53 E4
54
Rede Expressos Bus Station....... E3
REDM......................................55 D1
Renex Tickets and Buses..........56 D3
STCP Kiosk.............................. 57 D3
STCP Kiosk...............................58 A1
STCP Kiosk............................(see 32)
Tram Terminus........................ 59 D4
a
org
E2
D3
D4
C3
E2
ENTERTAINMENT
Academia................................ 43
Bar Duque Piano Bar................44
Club Mau-Mau........................45
Mar Alta................................46
Mexcal.....................................47
do
D4
D4
B3
A3
B3
DRINKING
La Maison des Porto................40 D4
Ryan's Irish Pub.......................41 D4
Solar do Vinho do Porto...........42 B3
E1
E2
D3
E3
D4
D4
D4
D3
D4
400 m
0.2 miles
EATING
31
Alfarroba..................................
32
Bolho Market..........................
Caf Ancra Douro..................33
Caf Majestic...........................34
Casa Mariazinha...................... 35
Cozzza Rio.............................. 36
O Muro................................... 37
Restaurante Romo.................38
Simbiose.................................. 39
0
0
ain
sto
Cemitrio de
Agramonte
va
TriR da
nid
ade
njar dim
Av dos Aliados
jard
Bon
R do
R do Bo
To Montes
d'Aventura
liv
eir (1km)
aM
on
tei
ro
R da
ont
Au
gu
dro
ina
A To Airport
(10km)
ista
P de
To French Embassy (500m);
58 Mouzinho de
British Embassy &
Albuquerque
Consulate (1km)
Pe
a Catar
Rd
eO
ita
Do
ofe
No
oa
aB
ed
Rd
ritir
R do
s
Sucesso
iados
R do Bom
Av dos Al
ira
nde
a Ba
S d
ster
R de
Forre
R Sant
te
on
ram
Alegri
Ag
R do Almada
que d
de
e 5 ro
R d utub
O
R da
nis
Di
eC
R de Anibal
Cunha
o de
legria
RF
R Du
e
Rd
lio
Barr
R da A
e Lou
R de
Rd
R de Cames
eu
o IV
at
R Santa Catarin
R Dom Jo
fonso
om A
Av D ques
Henri
Av Vim
R dos
Moinhos
eres
PORTUGAL
PORTO
Information
www.lonelyplanet.com
Getting Around
Porto centre is small enough to cover
mainly by foot. The city clings to the north
bank of the Douro River, spanned by five
bridges across from Vila Nova de Gaia,
home to the port-wine lodges. Central Portos axis is Av dos Aliados. The picturesque
Ribeira district lies along the waterfront,
in the shadow of the great Ponte de Dom
Lus I bridge.
Alam
Orientation
R da Lapa
PORTUGAL
R da Boav
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648 T H E N O R T H P o r t o
T H E N O R T H P o r t o 649
Sights
Head for the river-front Ribeira district for
an atmospheric stroll around, checking out
the gritty local bars, superb restaurants and
river cruises.
Torre dos Clrigos (Rua dos Clrigos; admission 1.50;
h10am-noon & 2-5pm) is atop 225 steep steps
but rewards those who make it to the top
with the best panorama of the city.
Dominating Porto is the S (%222 059
028; Terreiro da S; cloisters 2; h9am-12.15pm & 2.306pm Apr-Oct, to 5.15pm rest of year, closed Sun morning).
The cathedral is worth a visit for its mixture of architectural styles and vast ornate
interior.
West of the city is the Museu de Arte Contempornea (%226 156 500; www.serralves.pt, in
Portuguese; Rua Dom Joo de Castro 210; admission 5;
h 10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep,
10am-7pm Oct-Mar), enclosed by pretty gardens
Sleeping
BUDGET
Upbeat Art Nouveau dcor with Escherinspired spiral staircase. Go for the top
floor with rooms opening onto the palmfringed terrace.
Pestana Porto Carlton (%223 402 300; www
service in a gorgeous 16th-century setting. Rooms have city or river views and
sleek glossy furnishings with all the extras.
Theres wi-fi in the lobby.
Hotel Infante de Sagres (%223 398 500; www.hotel
MIDRANGE
T H E N O R T H P o r t o 651
TOP END
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w w accommodation online at
Eating
RESTAURANTS
Drinking
Solar do Vinho do Porto (%226 094 749; Rua Entre
Quintas 220; h 2pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Sophisticated setting for tasting the port made just
across the river.
La Maison des Porto (%936 057 340; Rua So Jo
46; h10am-12.30pm & 3-7pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 10am12.30pm Wed & Sun) This vinotheque gets the
Entertainment
Academia (%222 005 737; Rua So Joo 80; h10pmlate Tue-Sat) Revamped and stylishly hip
disco-bar.
Bar Duque Piano Bar (%223 20 848; Rua da Lada
98; hMon-Sat) On a street back from the
Douro, this place has a nice low-key ambience, aside from karaoke nights.
Mexcal (%226 009 188; Rua da Restaurao 39;
h10pm-4am Tue-Sat) The Latino music here is
good for a little late-night hip swinging.
Club Mau-Mau (%226 076 660; Rua do Outeiro 4;
h11pm-4am Wed-Sat) A dodging-elbows disco
with live music on Thursday nights.
Mar Alta (%226 162 540; Alameda Basilio Teles;
h10pm-2am Wed & Thu, 10pm-4am Fri & Sat, 8pm-4am
Sun) Nail-bitingly trendy disco with occa-
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
650 T H E N O R T H P o r t o
Shopping
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ANDANTE FARES
BUS
AIR
Central hubs of Portos extensive bus system include Jardim da Cordoaria, Praa da
Liberdade and So Bento station (Praa
Almeida Garrett). Tickets are cheapest
from STCP kiosks or newsagents and tobacconists: 1.55 for a return within Porto
and from 1.95 for outlying areas. Tickets
bought on the bus are 1.30 for a single.
Theres also a 4 day pass available.
Porto is connected by daily flights from Lisbon and London, and almost-daily direct
links from other European cities (see p658).
BUS
FUNICULAR
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VIANA DO CASTELO
pop 36,545
Sights
The stately heart of town is Praa da Repblica, with its delicate fountain and grandiose buildings, including the 16th-century
Misericrdia, a striking Renaissance building, its upper storeys supported by ornate
caryatids.
Atop Santa Luzia Hill, the Templo do Sagrado Corao de Jesus (Temple of the Sacred Heart of
TAXI
Jesus; %258 823 173; admission free; h8am-7pm AprSep, 8am-5pm Oct-Mar) offers a grand panorama
Getting Around
TRAM
Sleeping
T H E N O R T H A l o n g T h e D o u r o 653
Eating
A Gruta (%258 820 214; Rua Grande 87; mains 7) This
is a snug place with half-tiled walls and a
reasonable daily menu of solid local dishes.
Nip across to the pasteleria for dessert.
Dolce Vita (%258 820 214; Rua do Poo 44; mains
7) Wood-fired pizza and innovative pasta
sauces make this the obligatory refuelling
spot in town.
Zip (%258 826 594; Rua Luis Jcome 17; mains 7)
Well-named, this buzzy new restaurant
with its red-and-wicker dcor has an excellent international menu if youre suffering
from bacalhau burn out, including crepes,
pasta dishes and salads.
O Garfo (%258 829 415; Largo 5 de Outubro 58;
mains 8) Mixed grill, salmon and cod cakes
are just some of the goodies available at
this warm inviting restaurant opposite the
docks.
BRAGA
pop 110,000
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
652 T H E N O R T H P o r t o
Bookw . l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m www.lonelyplanet.com
w w accommodation online at
HORSE RIDING
and maps.
The national park operates horse riding facilities (%253 390 110) from beside its Vidoeiro camping ground, near Gers. Equi
Desafios (%253 352 803; www.equidesafios.com; Rua
Dr Francisco Xavier de Arajo) in Gers also organises treks.
Sights
In the centre of Braga is the S (museum & chapels adult/child 2/free; h8.30am-5.30pm), an elegant
cathedral complex.
At Bom Jesus do Monte, a hilltop pilgrimage site 5km from Braga, is an extraordinary stairway, the Escadaria do Bom Jesus,
with allegorical fountains, chapels and a superb view. Buses run frequently from Braga
to the site, where you can climb the steps
(pilgrims sometimes do this on their knees)
or ascend by funicular railway (1).
Its an easy day trip to Guimares with its
medieval town centre and a palace of the
dukes of Bragana.
Sleeping
Pousada da Juventude (% 253 616 163; braga
@movijovem.pt; Rua de Santa Margarida 6; dm/d 10/27)
This bland but lively hostel is a 10-minute
walk from the centre.
Hotel Residencial CC Avenida (%253 275 722; Bragashopping; s/d 35/45; ai) Shopoholic heaven,
in the centre of a commercial centre, this
modern place has pink-and-white rooms,
satellite TV and friendly front-desk folk.
Albergaria da S (%253 214 502; fax 253 214
501; Rua Gonalo Pereira 39-45; s/d 45/50; pa) A
swallows swoop from the cathedral with
appropriate heady views, the rooms have
hard-wood floors, sophisticated artwork
and a subtle colour scheme.
PARQUE NACIONAL DA
PENEDA-GERS
Boasting some of the most stunning scenery in the country, this superb park is a
popular holiday spot for Portugals happy
campers. Hikers are also keen, especially
on the wilder northern region around Serra
de Peneda. The area has an ancient history
with dolmens, stone circles and standing
stones; most are marked on local tourist
maps. The parks main centre is at Caldas
do Gers, a sleepy, hot-spring village.
WATER SPORTS
Sleeping
Activities
Information
HIKING
towns latest hotel with its stylish and tasteful rooms, tennis and spa facilities.
Hotel Universal (%253 390 020; Av Manuel Francisco da Costa; www.ehgeres.com; s/d 58/70; as)
Eating
P O R T U G A L D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n 655
PORTUGAL DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
Most tourist offices have lists of accommodation to suit a range of budgets. In this
chapter the budget category for a double
room is up to 45, midrange is between 46
and 75 and top end is over 76.
Note that most accommodation options,
excluding camping grounds and youth hostels, include a continental breakfast in the
price.
Camping
Camping is always the cheapest option,
although some camping grounds close
out of season. The multilingual, annuallyupdated Roteiro Campista (5), sold in
larger bookshops or via the www.roteiro
-campista.pt website, lists Portugals camping grounds.
Guesthouses
The most common types of guesthouse are
the residencial and the penso, which are
usual family owned and comfortable. Many
have cheaper rooms with shared bath.
Hotels
CYCLING
Pousadas are government-run former castles, monasteries or palaces, often in spectacular locations. For details contact tourist
offices, or Pousadas de Portugal (%218 442 001;
Pousadas
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
654 T H E N O R T H Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l D a Pe n e d a - G e r s
Youth Hostels
Portugal has 46 pousadas da juventude
(youth hostels) within the Hostelling International (HI) system. Reserve in advance
for a 1.50 fee by contacting Movijovem (Map
pp624-5; %213 524 072; www.pousadasjuventude.pt; Av
Duque dvila 137, Lisbon).
ACTIVITIES
Off-road cycling and bike trips are booming in Portugal; see Tavira (p639), Setbal
(p637), vora (p641) and Parque Nacional
da Peneda-Gers (p654).
Despite some fine rambling country,
walking is not a Portuguese passion. Some
parks are establishing trails though, and
some adventure travel agencies offer walking tours.
Popular water sports include surfing,
windsurfing, canoeing, white-water rafting
and water skiing. For local specialists, see
Lagos (p639), Sagres (p641), vora (p641),
Tavira (p639), Coimbra (p645) and Parque
Nacional da Peneda-Gers (p655).
Alpine skiing is possible at Torre in
the Serra da Estrela usually from January
through to March.
The Instituto Portugus da Juventude (%213
522 694; www.sej.pt, in Portuguese; Av da Liberdade 194,
Lisbon) offers holiday programmes for 16 to
30 year olds (visitors too), including cycling, canoeing and rock climbing.
BUSINESS HOURS
Banks are open 8.30am to 3pm weekdays.
Museums and tourist attractions are open
between 10am and 5pm Tuesday to Friday, but are often closed at lunch. Shopping
hours are generally 9am to 7pm weekdays,
and 9am to 1pm Saturday. Restaurants are
open for lunch and dinner, unless noted.
Tourist offices in larger towns are generally
open Monday to Saturday 9am to 7pm, in
smaller towns they close for lunch from
between 1.30 and 3pm. Portuguese post offices (correios) are open Monday to Friday
8.30am to 6pm. In Lisbon and Porto they
are also open on Saturday mornings.
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T R A N S P O R T I N P O R T U G A L G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 657
April
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Ambulance %112
Fire %117
Police %112
May
Festas das Cruzes Held in Barcelos in May, the Festival
of the Crosses is known for processions, folk music and
dance, plus regional handicrafts.
June
Feira Nacional da Agricultura In June Santarm
hosts the National Agricultural Fair, with bullfighting, folk
singing and dancing.
Festa do Santo Antnio The Festival of Saint Anthony
fills the streets of Lisbon on 13 June.
Festa de So Joo Portos big street bash is the St Johns
Festival, from 16 to 24 June.
POST
Stamps can be bought over the counter from
the post office or from an automatic dispensing machine (Correio de Portugal Selos).
TELEPHONE
Mobile Phones
Mobile phone numbers within Portugal
have nine digits and begin with %9.
Phone Codes
HOLIDAYS
Phonecards
August
Festas de Nossa Senhora da Agonia Viana do
MONEY
There are numerous banks with ATMs located throughout Portugal. Credit cards
are increasingly being accepted in hotels,
restaurants and shops, however, you will
normally be asked to provide photo identification. Exchange bureaux are common
throughout Portugal; often located near to
or even within the same building as the
tourist offices.
VISAS
EU nationals need only a valid passport or
identity card for entry to Portugal, and may
stay indefinitely. Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the United States
can stay for up to 90 days in any half-year
without a visa. Others, including nationals
of South Africa, need a visa unless theyre
the spouse or child of a EU citizen.
TRANSPORT IN
PORTUGAL
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
656 P O R T U G A L D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s
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www.lonelyplanet.com
around 210).
Renfe (%Spain 902 240 202; www.renfe.es; return
ticket 126) has a nightly sleeper service
Land
GETTING AROUND
BUS
Air
From UK
Bicycle
Mountain biking is popular in Portugal
and a great way to explore the country,
although given the Portuguese penchant
for overtaking on blind corners, it can be
dangerous on lesser roads. Bicycle lanes are
rare, aside from in the natural parks: veteran pedallers recommend the Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gers (p654). A growing
number of towns have bike-rental outfits
(around 10 a day). If youre bringing your
own, pack plenty of spares. Bicycles cant
be taken with you on trains, although most
bus lines will accept them as accompanied
baggage, subject to space and sometimes
for an extra fee.
Boat
Portugal is not big on waterborne transport
as a rule, however, there are river cruises
along the Douro River from Porto (p648),
Lisbons river trips (p629) and commuter
ferries.
Bus
Portugals buses are generally modern and
comfortable. However, there is a baffling
number of privatised bus companies operating across the country. In Porto alone
there are at least 18 bus companies, most
based at different terminals.
The only company really worth worrying
about is the national network, Rede Expressos
(%969 502 050; www.rede-expressos.pt, in Portuguese),
T R A N S P O R T I N P O R T U G A L G e t t i n g A r o u n d 659
which has a fleet of 100 buses, a comprehensive website and provides connections
to 300 locations throughout the country.
Most bus-station ticket desks will give you a
computer print-out of fares, and all services
and schedules will be clearly posted at each
major station.
CLASSES
There are three classes of bus service: expressos are comfortable, fast, direct buses
between major cities; rpidas are fast regional buses; and carreiras stop at every
crossroad. Expressos are generally the best
cheap way to get around (particularly for
long trips, where per-kilometre costs are
lowest). An under-26 card should get you
a discount of around 20%, at least on the
long-distance services.
COSTS
Travelling by bus in Portugal is fairly inexpensive. Refer to the Getting There & Away
section of the respective city or town you
are travelling to or from for distance times
and fares.
RESERVATIONS
Advance reservations are only really necessary on the longer routes of the expresso
service.
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
658 T R A N S P O R T I N P O R T U G A L G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y
INSURANCE
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Train
Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses (CP; %808 208 208;
www.cp.pt) is the statewide train network and
is generally efficient, although can be slower
than long-distance buses. Most trains are
regionais (R) or suburbanos, stopping at stations en route. The more costly intercidades
(IC) trains are faster, while the most luxurious and pricey are the alfa pendulares (AP)
trains. Both the IC and AP lines require seat
reservations in advance.
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661
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
660 T R A N S P O R T I N P O R T U G A L G e t t i n g A r o u n d