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ANECALC PLUS Help Guide

ANECALCPLUS is a tool developed to assist in estimating the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product. This information can then be used to calculate the Thread Cost per Garment and the estimated number of cones you will need for a quantity of sewn products you are planning on producing. It can also be used to calculate the number of cones required for line coverage for small production lots. You do not need to have any special software on your computer because ANECALC was developed using Microsoft Excel spreadsheets. Most ANECALC PLUS workbooks have sheets or Tabs at the bottom that are used for the following: - INSTRUCTIONS tab on how to use the program. - WORKSHEET tab where you enter data to estimate the thread consumption, including a waste factor. This tab is also where you input thread price to automatically calculate the estimated cost per garment; and an input for the number of units to be produced that allows ANECALC PLUS to calculate the number of cones of each SKU (Stock Keeping Unit) are needed. The last column on the right is for entering the average production per machine which will allow ANECALC PLUS to calculate the number of cones required for line coverage. - mm to Inches tab that helps you convert fractions of an inch to millimeters. STARTING A NEW ANECALC PLUS SPREAD SHEET - To begin a new ANECALC PLUS spreadsheet, you can either use an existing Apparel Guidelines ANECALC PLUS spreadsheet for a similar garment and modify it for the garment you are doing the analysis on; or you can decide to begin from scratch with a new Spreadsheet. WHEN STARTING FROM SCRATCH - When you are starting from scratch with a new Spreadsheet, we suggest you first begin with an ANECALC PLUS worksheet. - For each sewing operation on the garment, list the name of the sewing operation, what ISO Stitch Type is being used, the rows of that ISO Stitch there are, the Stitches Per Inch (SPI), and the length of the seam. Once you have this information you can begin to input the information into a Microsoft Excel ANECALC PLUS spreadsheet. - It is important that you select the correct spreadsheet for the weight of the fabric being used in the garment. There are three basic ANECALC PLUS PLUS spreadsheets: Light Weight - 1 to 4 oz weight fabrics Medium Weight 5 8 oz weight fabrics Heavy Weight 9 15 oz weight fabrics The Weight of fabric determines the ratio of Needle to Bottom thread on the Thread Consumption Table that is used to estimate the amount of thread consumed. AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS - At the top of each ANECALC spreadsheet is a cell where you can change the average thickness of the seam in millimeters. This is based on the average seam thickness in the entire garment. In most cases, you will not have to change this if you are using the correct spreadsheet for Light, Medium or Heavy weight fabric. SELECTING THE ISO STITCH TYPE - Most stitches formed on Industrial Sewing Machines have been assigned an ISO 4915 Stitch Number. A chart with the most commonly used ISO 4915 stitch numbers can be found on A&Es website (www.amefird.com) under the Technical Information Tab. - On some stitches, you must also select the stitch based on the needle spacing or seam width. (Ex. 504 -1/8 3 Thd Overedge). - It is important to select the correct ISO 4915 stitch number because this will determine the amount of thread calculated to make the seam. NUMBER OF ROWS OF STITCH - This does NOT refer to the number of needles, BUT the number of rows of ISO stitch you identified used to make the seam. - For example, a 406 stitch is a two needle bottom coverstitch. This two needle stitch type makes up one row of stitch. Rule: whenever the needles are connected with thread on either the top or bottom side of the seam, one row of stitch is being produced. - On the other hand, when you twin needle topstitch a pocket with a 301 Lockstitch, then two independent rows of lockstitch are being used. SPI - SPI refers to Stitches Per Inch and is the measurement of the number of links of thread between needle holes in one inch. - For example, a typical number of stitches per inch on denim would be 8 spi. See A&Es technical bulletin on Selecting the Proper Stitches Per Inch can be found on A&Es website. LENGTH OF SEAM - The length of seam is the measurement of the seam length including seam margins but does not include chain-off. - A&E has ANECALC PLUS spreadsheets available in either yards and inches or metres and centimeters. The selection of the proper sheet is normally dependent upon the thread being wound on cones that have lengths measured in yards or in meters. - In the U.S., a typical cone of thread is wound on a 6,000 yard put-up. In Europe or in Asia, a typical cone is wound on a 5,000 metre put-up.

Many sewing operations have mirror components on each side of the garment. A right and left cuff, a right and left pocket, etc. If the sewing operation includes sewing both of these parts, then double the measurement for the seam length. HIDING ROWS - A typical ANECALC PLUS spreadsheet has enough rows for 35 operations but in many cases, you will not need all these rows. - If you want to Hide the Rows between the last operation and the Totals at the bottom of the spreadsheet, Click in the left hand margin and drag down the Row numbers until you are just above the Totals.

INSERTING A NEW ROW - First, click in the row where you want to insert the new row.

- Next, right click and select Copy. - Now right click again and select Insert Copied Cells. - You will now have two identical rows one above the other. - Next, right click on the Stitch Box in the new row you just added.

- Next right click your mouse and select HIDE.

- Then select Format Control from the pop-up menu. - Change the Cell Link to the proper Row Number. In this case, change the D17 to D16 and then click on OK.

- Now you can change the operation numbers and the information in the New Row you just inserted. - If you change the Stitch Type, make sure that you put the right thread type under Needle, and either Bobbin or Looper.

- Now you can change the operation numbers and the information in the New Row you just inserted. - If you change the Stitch Type, make sure that you put the right thread type under Needle, and either Bobbin or Looper.

INSERTING THREAD SIZE, TYPE & COLOR - For ANECALC PLUS to be able to calculate the cost per garment, the Thread information for each operation must be inserted next to the thread consumption calculation. - Rule: There must be a thread description placed in the appropriate column for the Needle, Bobbin and Looper thread positions where there is thread consumed. - We strongly recommend that you copy and paste all thread descriptions into the worksheet. Any variation on the way the thread type and size are listed will be looked at by ANECALC PLUS as separate SKUs. (Example: T-27 Perma Spun and T27 Perma Spun will be counted as 2 separate SKUs). - For ease, some ANECALC PLUS spreadsheet for common garments that generally use only one or two thread types will allow you to type in the Thread description once and ANECALC PLUS will fill in the appropriate locations. CALCULATING THREAD COST PER GARMENT - To calculate the thread cost per garment, enter the thread putup and price per cone. - For ANECALC PLUS spreadsheets that calculate the Thread Consumption in meters, then the thread price should be in Thread Price Per Meter. - Any currency can be used on ANECALC PLUS.

CALCULATING NUMBER OF CONES NEEDED - To calculate the Number of cones required, type in the production requirement in the Program Size cell. ANECALC PLUS will calculate the number of cones needed for the thread in the sewn products. - If very small lots of production are to be produced, then more thread may have to be ordered to have the proper coverage on the sewing floor. By coverage, we mean the minimum number of cones needed to thread up the machines on a production line to run the work efficiently without delay. - ANECALC PLUS can calculate the number of cones that will be need only if the average production output per machine per operation is enter in the right-hand column. You must also enter the Line Output Per Day so ANECALC PLUS can calculate the number of sewing machine required and the number of cones required for each sewing operation.

CALCULATING TOTAL THREAD CONSUMPTION BY SKU - For ANECALC PLUS to be able to calculate the Total Thread Consumption by SKU (stock keeping unit), you will need to copy and paste each different SKU in the box in the lower left-hand corner of the spreadsheet. ANECALC PLUS will then go through the entire spreadsheet and add up the totals for each SKU. - Rule: If you see numbers below the locations where you have copied and pasted an SKU, then this indicates that you left out an SKU in the top part of the spreadsheet under Needle, Bobbin or Looper thread. - Rule: The total amount of thread under the SKU Summary must be equal to the Total amount of thread found under the worksheet. If they are not the same, then you have missed copying and pasting an SKU in the SKU Summary portion of the spreadsheet.

- By changing the Program Size, you can see the impact this has on the Total Thread Cost for Line Coverage compared to the Total Thread Cost for the Garment being sewn. - Obviously, larger production lots will not cost much more than the thread in the garments, depending on the cones sizes. However, for small lot sizes, the thread cost can double or triple because many more cones are required to thread up the sewing line.

ANE CALC
PHOTO OF GARMENT

American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS


Fill in the information highlighted in 'blue' Avg. Seam Thickness ANECALC Plus was designed to not only calculate the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product, but the number of cones required to thread up the production line.
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ANE CALC PLUS


mm

Company Name:

Garment Description:

If the retail program size is small, then the thread cost will be higher for proper line coverage.

ROWS Oper # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 301 301 NAME OF OPERATION ISO STITCH TYPE 301 OF STITCH SPI

SEAM LENGTH CM

NEEDLE THD IN METRES

NEEDLE THREAD

BOBBIN THREAD METRES

BOBBIN THREAD

LOOPER THREAD METRES

LOOPER /COVER THREAD

TOTAL METRES/ OPER.

PRODUCTION OUTPUT PER MACHINE PER DAY

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American & Efird Thread Consumption Calculator - LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS


21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 SUBTOTALS t-60 Perma Spun 301

ANE CALC PLUS

Avg. Seam Thickness

TOTAL

PROGRAM SIZE:

1200
Waste Factor

10%

Total Mtrs/Garment w Waste

LINE OUTPUT PER DAY:

2000
Cones / Program for Line Coverage Cones/ Program

Cones / Thread Consumed Copy & Paste Thread Size & Type from above TOTAL METRES CONE SIZE PRICE /CONE CURRENCY Cones/ Program Cones/ Program

Thread Cost

Thread Cost for Coverage

1 2 3 4

$ $ $ $ $ Total Mtrs./Garment w Waste Cost/Garment = Per Program $ Cost/Garment =

$ $ $ $ $ For Line Coverage $ -

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Inches fraction decimal 0.125 3/16 0.188 1/4 0.250 3/8 0.375 1/2 0.500 5/8 0.625 3/4 0.750 1 1.000

Metric mm 3.18 4.76 6.35 9.53 12.70 15.88 19.05 25.40