SPRING HOLD-DOW

can is splashed by the crankshaft to keep the mechanism weII lubricated. The complete drive unit is shown in Fig. 1, partly cutaway so that you can get a better idea of its assembly. Bronze spindle bushings (Ford model-T type) are used as sleeves for the vertical shaft and also as SCARCITY of metal leed not keep you a bearing for the crankshaft. Fig, 3 shows from having a scroll 'saw, as this one is how the channel is clamped to flattened mqde mostly of wood. Abide from the bolts places on the shaft, and how the lower and bushings required, t p few other pieces bushing is mounted in a flat-iron bracket. of metal needed can be,salvaged, in most Note from Fig. 4 that the bolts in the latter cases, from odds and efnds found in the fasten both it and the can to the wooden junk box. If plywood i;s not available in base. YOUcan work the channel to shape your particular locality,l you can resort to by hand using a hacksaw, chisel andefile, solid stock by gluing up panels of sufficient or YOU can have the channel and crankwidth. The crankshaft mechanism of the shaft made. Thick felt washers prevent drive head operates in la bath of oil and leakage of oil at points where the two , is sealed inside an ordingry 1-qt. paint can shafts pass through the can. The oil level, of the type having a p ess-fit lid. Fig. 4 of course, should be kept below the hole will give you an idea o how it works. A in the side of the can, as shown in Fig. 4. crankshaft, entering the side of the can, It is important that the block holding the rth crankshaft bearing be rigid. Fig. 2 show a way of bolting thii, which allows it be retightened easily if it should w loose. When insfaJling the crankshaft must be no end play, as the face of the

TO LEG REACH

27

the top of the plywood sides. With this filler block in place, you can go ahead and add the blade chuck to the slotted end of the shaft. This consists of a hexagon nut screwed and soldered to the end and then drilled and tapped crosswise for a setscrew to clamp the blade as shown in F i g .7. The blade can be made self-centering in the width as the blade. pipe shaft by two floar flanges which are centered and screwed opposlte each other. One end of the shaft is threaded to pass throu+hGp flanges far enough to permit
c.z:*-

a %-in. elbow to be pinned to the projecting end and soldered to'the flange. If you are unable to have the bushings turned of metal to fit the pipe shaft, satisfactory ones

i f short pipe arms make a neat job. to the size of the plywood drive you'll have to true it on the outer . the lathe as shown in Fig. 10.

ins Hold Bandsaw Blade in Vise While BI

Instead of making up a special jig to hold the ends of broken bandsaw blades in perfed alignment while brazing, just slip a couple of large cotter pins over the blade and clamp them in a vise as shown. To protect vise jaws against excessive heat from them in the visl

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S L O T PERMITS ' TILTING T O ANGLE O F TABLl

tracking without twist by engaging a cross pin in the shaft in slots in the tube. Needless to say, the slots in the tube must be cut down each side exactly in the center, otherwise the pin is apt to bind or prevent assembly. The shaft, with the cross pin either threaded or pressed into it, must be slipped inside the tube and both inserted in the hole at the same time, after which'the spring is added and the lower bushing and its

As , portan ant that the holes be in lime centrally through the block, a drill press, is preferred to boring them by hand, although the Iatter can be done fairly accurately if you are careful to keep the bit running as straight as possible. Bore the top hole 3 in. deep, then turn the block end for end, and with a 1-in. bit, bore through to meet the first hole. Next, groove the rear edge of the block to take the holddown, after which the uppet. corner is notched according to the dimensions given in Fig. 15. The cutaway sectional view in Fig. 15 ahows what the tension mechanism looks like when installed in the counterbored housing. Bronze bushings of the type that were used in the drive head are used here to carry the shaft; the upper bushing being pinned to the block through the flange and the lower one bushed centrally in the hole with a turned wooden sleeve. Fitting the

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sleeve are pressed in the end to hold the tube in place. The width of the slots in the tube should equal the diameter of the cross pin. Note that a thick felt washer is provided between the bushing and the metal plate which holds the former in place, to prevent oil from being thrown out through the shaft clearance in the plate. The upper blade chuck is made the same way as the lower one, which was described previously, the end of the shaft being threaded for the nut before the shaft is installed in the housing. A turn of a handwheel clamps the unit securely-in the arm. This can be made of wood and fitted with a carriage bolt to engage an embedded nut in the opposite side as shown in the top view of Fig. 15. The completed unit must be mounted in the arm so that the upper chuck will be directly in line with the lower one. You can do this best by clamping the unit ten

porarily in place with a C-clamp or a handscrew and checking it for alignment with a square held along the underside of the arm. When centered, the frame core piece along the top of the arm is fitted and bolted in place behind the unit and filler blocks or stops are glued between the sides at the front. See top view, Fig. 15. The work hold-down, Figs. 15 and 16, is improvised from an old table fork having the two center tines removed. It is soldered to a 1%-in. disk slotted crosswise, to permit the hold-down to be adjusted to whatever slant the table may be tilted. The fork and disk are held to a wood shaft by a bolt blade guide. Several of these guides will be needed to accommodate blades of various thicknesses. .You can make them easily from %-in. carriage bolts by slotting the heads the required depth with a hacksaw and then closing the slot slightly by peening it to suit the blade thickness. A thurnbnut fitted as shown in Fig. 15 serves to lock the hold-down at the desired height, and wax applied to both the shaft and the channel in which it moves will make it slide easily. Making the trunnions for the tilting table will require the use of a lathe, as a groove must be turned in them to take guides on which they move. Both trunnions can be had from one plywood disk by sawing it carefully in half after turning to size. Note in Fig. 18 that the bolt slots through $he trunnions must be cut on opposite sides of the centerline to obtain right and left-hand units. Use hard-pressed board from which to turn a ring to fit the trunnion grooves nicely and then screw - 3-in. segments of the ring flush with the top of the frame at the front and back as shown in Figs. 19 and 20. Notice that the square heads of the trunnion bolts are embedded under the guides before screwing the latter in place. A wing nut and washer are provided on each bolt to lock the trunnions in position. Wax applied to the trunnion grooves and the guides will make the table tilt smoothly. Plywood is preferred to solid stock for the table, as it will stay flat. It is attached to the trunnions with cleats as shown in the upper detail i nF i g . 18. You will have to do this, of course, while the trunnions are in place on the guides. The recess for the metal table insert is formed easily by pressing a turned ring in the hole as shown in Fig. 17. Hera you also can see how the frame extensions

( @$ FRONT VIEW SHOWING TABLE TILTING TRUNNION

provide stops to permit returning ble quickly to a horizontal position. it is desired to have the table so it tilted 45 degrees to the left ako, th can be cut off. With this arrangeme clamping-bolt slob are extended an trunnion indexed 90 degrees for ra settitig. If you are unable to buy an endless belt long enough to reach the drive pull you can resort to round leather belting even sash cord, applying belt dressing slippage develops. ,
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Ball-Bearing Mandrel From Bike Pedal Hanger

With very little olterotion, o bicycle hanger assembly provides o rugged, inexpensive boll-bedring mandrel for a homemade power grinder, circular saw and similar high-speed tools

If you are planning a homemade tool that requires the use of a mandrel, such as a grinder, table saw, etc., the pedal-bearing assembry of a discarded bicycle will provide a ball-bearing mandrel that is free running,and dust tight. Saw the frame to sever the hanger and weld the remaining stubs to a metal plate to simplify mounting the assembly. Then remove the pedal

cranks and turn down the projecting ends of the shaft to the desired diameter; usually a %-in. diameter is the most suitable. Threading the turned ends of the shaft so that nuts can be driven on in the direction opposite that of the rotating saw or grinder, completes the job. If desired, a grease fitting can be fitted on the housing to simplify lubricating the bearings.

Drill to Use in Model Making Assembled From Scraps.

This handy drill for use in making model ships, planes, etc., is constructed easily. A 7-in. length of %-in. brass or steel rod is used for the shaft, and a spiral, removed from an automatic lead pencil, serves as a rotating device, which is soldered at the ends to the brass shaft. A finger grip, which rotates the drill when moved up and down the spiral, is made from a %-in. length of brass rod. This has a hole drilled through the center so it will slide loosely over the spiral, and is fitted with a pin, which extends slightly into the center of the hole to engage the spiral. The chuck is one removed from a small pin drill. Drill bits are made from steel sewing needles. r