FIRMIDERM

Division de Cognis France

LS 9 1 2 0

B O TA N I C A L S K I N F I R M I N G A G E N T

Aging and cutaneous tone

According to Le Bozec and Belach, cutaneous aging is characterized by the deterioration of the cutaneous coating, resulting from years of accumulation of progressive modifications of its different constituents. Today, we are able to distinguish that this deterioration process is caused by two mechanisms: - inevitable intrinsic aging changes that are especially found on photoprotected areas, - aging caused by environmental factors, the first being the actinic factor that occurs on photo-exposed areas, where one could take preventive measures. Indeed, these two processes have different clinical demonstrations and different cellular, biological, biochemical and molecular mechanisms. If, during the aging process, all the structures of skin are altered, some fundamental changes prevail in the dermis. It is the functional attack on the fibroblast and the interstitium that seems to have the most important role in the development of cutaneous aging. The intrinsic and actinic aging processes are both characterized by a decrease in the normal and therefore functional elastic fibers. The structural modifications, at the dermal level, include alterations of elastic fibers and collagen, modifications of fibroblasts, such as their depletion, the reduction and loss of cohesion with the interstitium; and other modifications, such as the alteration of the microcirculation which decreases and becomes disorganized. The mechanical properties of skin: skin can be considered like a visco-elastic material which is not linear, nor homogeneous. There are numerous methods used to explore the extensibility and the elasticity of skin. These two parameters characterize skin aging by showing its resistance to the distortion and its capacity to regain its initial state after distortion. The tonometry measures the extensibility of skin in a perpendicular plane to its surface. It consists in progressively applying a constant traction at the skins surface and measuring the distortion on it. It uses the suction of the skin to evaluate the vertical extensibility (cutometer).

Fig. 1 Selection of three phytocomponents with reinforcing properties of the cutaneous tonicity (A : Terminalia catappa, B : Sambucus nigra, C : Castanea vulgaris).

SKIN BENEFITS Thanks to the synergistic effect of its botanical extracts, rich with polyphenols and avonoids, FIRMIDERM LS 9120: 1. reinforces the skin elasticity and tonicity, while reducing cutaneous hyperlaxity, 2. provides an anti-age action by tissular structuring effect and encourages the improvement of microcirculation. COSMETIC USE FIRMIDERM LS 9120 is recommended for face and body care, as well as for treating make-up. 1. facial care: anti-age, anti-wrinkle, tonifying, firming products, eye contour products. Firmiderm LS 9120 can be formulated in lotions, gels, serums, day or night skin care emulsions, 2. body care: in firming, tonifying and restructuring products. Firmiderm LS 9120 can be used in bust, neckline or body (legs) care products, 3. make-up: Firmiderm LS 9120 can be used in fluid foundations or tinted day creams. DOSAGE / SOLUBILIT Y / MODE OF INCORPORATION 1. Dose of use: 3 to 5%. 2. Solubility: water soluble, insoluble in oils. 3. Mode d'incorporation : FIRMIDERM LS 9120 is incorporated into the cosmetic product below 50C, during the nishing process or at room temperature for cold processing. ANALY TICAL CHARACTERISTICS 1. Aspect: limpid liquid, mahogany brown, of characteristic odor. 2. Specifications: upon request. TOLERANCE Good. EFFICACY Test summaries overleaf. STORAGE In its original packaging, at 15 - 25C. INCI NAME Terminalia Catappa Leaf Extract (and) Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract (and) PVP (and) Tannic Acid. MANUFACTURER Laboratoires Srobiologiques, division de Cognis France

DEFINITION / COMPOSITION
FIRMIDERM LS 9120 is an original, patented active ingredient, consisting of a synergistic combination of plant substances. It was especially developed to bring tensor, firming and astringent effects to the skin.

Main components:
FIRMIDERM LS 9120 is composed of substances and plant extracts from three plants, one of which being from a new patented exotic origin :

- Terminalia catappa leaves (Combretaceae) Polyphenols, - Sambucus nigra L. owers (Caprifoliaceae) Polyphenols, and Flavonoids, - Castanea vulgaris (Fagaceae) Chestnut tree: tannic acid.

9120-801-174

LABORATOIRES SROBIOLOGIQUES, DIVISION DE COGNIS FRANCE

ACTIVE INGREDIENT

FIRMIDERM LS 9120

FOR

COSMETOLOGY

SKIN

SKIN

E FF IC ACY TES TS
IMPROVEMENT OF SKIN ELASTICITY (CLINICAL TEST) Aim Demonstration of the improvement of cutaneous elasticity using a cream containing 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120, compared to a placebo cream. Protocol Study conducted in double blind with randomization on 15 female volunteers with an average age of 58 years old, who have distended skin with a loss of elasticity on the external side of their forearms. Twice daily treatment (in the morning and in the evening) for 4 weeks, without the use of any other products: - placebo cream on the external side of a forearm, - cream with 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120 on the external side of the other forearm. Results
Ur/Uf: rate of elastic recovery (base 100) 140
130 120 110 100 90 80 D0 D28
Statistics: According to Students t test (*) p = 0.0011 (NS) not significant T SEM 15 subjects

Quantitative measurements of the cutaneous elasticity on the external side of forearms by vertical extensiometry after repeated constraints (cutometer SEM 575 - Courage and Khazaka).
D0 VERTICAL EXTENSIOMETRY

Cream with FIRMIDERM LS 9120

Randomisation

Placebo cream

4 WEEK TREATMENT

D28

VERTICAL EXTENSIOMETRY

12 hours after the last application

Fig. 2 Experimental protocol.

Rate of elastic recovery after repeated constrainst Normal skin
5% (NS)

+ 26% (*)

Distended ageing skin before treatment after 4 weeks of treatment

Ur/Uf
Placebo 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120

Placebo cream Cream with 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120

D0: before treatment D28: after 4 weeks of treatment

COSMETOLOGY

Fig. 3 Quantitative improvement of the cutaneous elasticity measured by vertical extensiometry after 4 weeks of treatment with a cream containing 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120.

Conclusion The cream containing 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120 improved significantly the cutaneous elasticity and tonicity by + 26% after 4 weeks of treatment. The placebo cream, in the same experimental conditions, did not modify this cutaneous parameter. Quantitative evaluation of the cutaneous firmness by measurement of skin compressibility with the dermofirmometer. The more the skin is firm, the more its compression resistance is high, the more the compressibility is weak. Results
Compressibility (mm / log t) - Base 100 140 130 120 110 100 90 80 70 60 - 20% (**) + 8% (ns) D0 : before treatment D42 : after 6 weeks of treatment
Statistics: Average on 9 subjects ( SEM) Wilcoxon T test (ns) Not significant (**) p = 0.04 T SEM (Standard Error of Mean)

IMPROVEMENT OF SKIN FIRMNESS (CLINICAL TEST) Aim To demonstrate the cutaneous firmness improvement with a cream containing 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120 versus placebo. Protocol Study in double blind with randomization conducted on 9 female volunteers aged from 46 and 66 years old having a loss of skin firmness on the forearm. Bi-daily application (morning and evening) during 6 weeks on a perfectly located area: - of a placebo cream on a forearm, - of a cream containing 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120 on the other forearm
Thickness of the skin fold in mm
3

ACTIVE INGREDIENT

FOR

50

D0

Placebo cream

Young and firm skin (not very compressible) Aged skin with loss of firmness (very compressible)

Cream with 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120 D42

Fig. 5 Measurement of skin compressibility by dermormometry. Mean results on 9 volunteers.

10

15

20

Time (seconds)

Conclusion The application of a cream containing 3% FIRMIDERM LS 9120 has significantly improved the skin firmness on the treated area after 6 weeks of treatment.

Fig. 4 Comparison young skin/aged skin. Biophysical presentation of results.

LABORATOIRES SROBIOLOGIQUES, DIVISION DE COGNIS FRANCE - 3, RUE DE SEICHAMPS - BP40 - 54425 PULNOY (FRANCE) - PHONE. (33)3.83.29.97.92 - FAX. (33)3.83.29.98.65 - WWW.LABORATOIRES-SEROBIOLOGIQUES.COM 9120-801-174 LABORATOIRES SROBIOLOGIQUES, DIVISION DE COGNIS FRANCE