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We put a bar comparison on our site so that you can make an educated choice on t hese bars.

Here are some determining factors: 1) Steel Type - Most bars are 125K-205K PSI Tensile strength, we will just use t hat since it is published more often than Yield 1.1 125K PSI steel bars are the 1500LB static test bars normally, that tests mea ns zero because you are going to put a dynamic load on the bar. I would only buy a bar with that grade steel in the 31MM + diameter if you don't want to deal wi th a possible bent bar. 1.2 155K PSI steel - This is an excellent steel hence the wide spread use by Rog ue, Pendlay etc. We have seen a few bent bars out of many, they were replaced in 24 hours. 1.3 185-205K PSI Steel - This steel is used in many of the Olift and Powerlift b ars out there to include Rogue and York. This steel is no joke, very strong but a bit stiff normally. With the 28MM it has some good action but once it is 29MM it tends to be pretty stiff. 2) Diameter - 25-32MM 2.1 25MM - Junior and Female 5-10-15KG Bars - Our 10-15KG bars are made with the 155K PSI steel 2.2 27MM - Deadlift Bars are made at this diameter - This is a single use bar ma de to bend substantially before the plates leaves the ground - Called Okie Bar m any times - 155K PSI Steel 2.3 28MM - Standard Olift Diameter - All of our Olift 28MM bars are 185-205K PSI steel. Per a few other comments on this thread as the bars near 200K PSI steel they tend to be a more stiff. The Eleiko bars have found a very unique mix of to ughness and flex while still returning to straight. Many other manufacturers sim ply have strong olift bars at the 200K mark but they don't have quite as much ac tion. 2.4 28.5MM - Rogue Bar, Burner Bar, Castro Bar, Pendlay HD, Texas Power Bar - Al l of these bars are using this diameter steel shaft. I have yet to cut and test a Texas Power Bar but I am told it is 185K PSI steel. All the others are 155K PS I steel and are guaranteed for life against bending. 2.5 29MM - The Burg & Rip bar is 29MM and is made with 205K PSI steel, very stif f and we have yet to see one bent. West Side has been using one of these bars fo r a year now and it is still straight. 2.6 30-32MM - Most of these bars are 125K PSI steel hence the large diameter. In creasing the diameter of the bar is the other way to make the bar strong, simply by adding more of a cross section. The Beater bar is 31MM and some change, we h ave yet to have one bent. We called it the Beater bar because it is exactly that , like the old truck that always gets it done. 3) Bushing/Bearing/None - This is the medium between the sleeve and the steel sh aft 3.1 Bronze & Other Bushing - This is an excellent way to achieve good spin assum ing the machining is done properly. Normally two bushings per sleeve 3.2 Needle Bearing - Normally 5 needle bearing per sleeve. We tested Japanese an d German types, we are using German in the new Burgener bar

3.3 Sleeve to shaft - Basically the sleeve sits right on the shaft so there is n o bushing to act as the wear and tear medium 4) End Cap Design - Snap Ring, Pinned or End Cap - This function keeps the sleev e from coming off the steel shaft 4.1 Snap Ring - Rogue, Pendlay, Eleiko, Ivanko all use snap ring designs with th eir own signature implementation. These will vary from 1-4 snap rings/sleeve wit h machined snap ring grooves in the bar and sleeve. 4.2 Pinned End - This is the cheapest way to secure the sleeve, basically drill a hole through the sleeve and pound a cold rolled pin through. This is on the Be ater bar and Texas Power Bar. The Texas Power Bar has parallel pins, either opti on is a strong connection but doesn't make for the best spin of the sleeve. Ther e is a machined groove in the shaft that the pin is driven beside, hence it is a tangent to the diameter of the shaft. 4.3 Pinned Cap - York has gone to this on all the bars we have seen that are mad e in Canada. A cap that has the same outer diameter as the sleeve is put onto th e end of the bar and pinned on center. This is a robust way to secure the sleeve but I prefer the snap ring designs 5) Coating - Raw steel, Zinc, Oxide, Chrome, Powder 5.1 Bare Steel - Old school naked bar that allows oxidization, this an awesome b ar to have in your arsenal. There will be maintenance on this bar if you want to keep it pristine. 5.2 Zinc - Bright, Black, Olive Drab or Yellow - Those are the heavy hitters in the zinc plating world. This is a plating process to protect the steel. All bars have bright zinc on them then you dip the steel in one of the other colors. The Black Zinc is preferred for all the Rogue Bars as it wears well and has an exce llent feel. Pendlay uses Bright Zinc We will soon have OD Green Zinc on a few of our bars, that will be pretty cool! 5.3 Oxide - This is a treatment, we don't use it on any of our bars but York use s it on many of their low end bars. 5.4 Chrome - This is used on many Olift bars but there are many grades of chrome and how well the process was done. Some would say it feels slick compared to Zi nc but it has been used for some time by Eleiko and on many of the York bars You could write a hundred page book on e features. More subjective attributes ll which bar is best is to set all the ate towards, we would like to think we the differences between these bars and th are knurl pattern etc. The best way to te bars out and see which bars people gravit have that covered!

What your thought on the Rogue power bar? Like I said I have the Operator bar, n o center knurl, if I buy new again.I think I will get the Rogue Power bar.