jungle lovely

A chilly plunge in
the Morne Trois
Pitons National
Park’s Emerald Pool.
Opposite: Jungle
Bay Resort’s 35
cottages are set
amid cedar, galba
and gommier trees.

n a t u r e m e e t s

n u rt u r e
get lost in DoMInica’s legendary wild
side at these six elemental lodges
t e x t & pho togr a ph y by bob f r i el

62 Caribbean Travel + Life  j u n e / j u ly 2009 C A R I B B E A N T R AV E L MAG.co m  Caribbean Travel + Life 63

 D
Istill Dominica down to its
bAsics and you’ll derive a simple
formula: unrivaled natural beaUty
plus mad rushes of adreNAline —
ooh-a ah plus yee-ha! unlike most
Caribbean islands, the allure here isn’t a billboard image of suntanned bodies relax-
ing on brilliant white sands. Dominica’s true beauty is primordial, raw and powerful,
and to really appreciate it, you have to immerse yourself. Fortunately, as imposing as
the island’s geography can be, you can scale your adventures from easy to extreme.
At the forest margins, hummingbirds probe exotic blooms that are their only color
rivals in a realm of green on green on green. Simply step into the jungle along any
of the island’s 365 rivers and you’re instantly transported to a lost world where trees
curl skeletal toes over riverbanks, vines snake from high in the canopy, and mosses
smother any surface that remains still for more than a minute.
Hike just a little farther into the jungle and you’ll find several of the hemisphere’s
most picturesque cascades, like Trafalgar Falls. In Emerald Pool’s paradisiacal setting,
you slip into the water for a baptism beneath a cool waterfall. Lured ever deeper, you
can swim inside the mysterious winding canyon of Titou Gorge until you’re enveloped emerald isle

in the mist and feel the overpowering strength of yet another waterfall. Ten-room Beau Rive
overlooks rugged
Nine seething volcanoes lie camouflaged beneath Dominica’s lush, green forest, and Anse Francais and
at Champagne Beach you’ll witness how close to the surface the geothermal marrow Wakaman Point.
boils as you snorkel amid bubbling volcanic gases and reach your hands into hot- Opposite, from
above: The looming
water vents. Take to the sea on a boat trip off the calm west coast and you’ll cruise 4,550-foot Morne
over abyssal depths that attract the Caribbean’s grandest mix of dolphins and whales, Trois Pitons gives
including a resident pod of sperm whales. Dominica’s national
park its name; hot
For those looking to reach beyond the soft adventures, Dominica brings all the and cold streams
heart-pounding action you can handle. With five mountains more than 4,000 feet blend in Titou Gorge.

64 Caribbean Travel + Life  o ct o b e r 2009

 above and beyond
high, covered in the region’s most pristine rainforest, the island boasts some legendary On Dominica’s south
hiking. The mixing of currents offshore creates some of the Caribbean’s most electric coast, the village of
Scott’s Head (named
diving. And the little-known sport of canyoning takes advantage of the island’s in-
after British Colonel
numerable rivers — some flowing chill and drinkably pure, others mineral white and George Scott, the
Jacuzzi hot. They draw you deep inside the billowing drapery of jungle to where even island’s lieutenant
governor from 1764
the air is tinted green and reveal a spectacular cascade — then fling you over.
to 1767) rises over
A Dominica day shouldn’t end once the mud’s washed off and the muscles are the Soufriere-Scott’s
massaged. You need to bask in the humid exhalations of the rainforest all evening, Head Marine Reserve.
drift off to the symphony of tree frogs and wake to the chorus of birds. Your lodging
should provide a seamless transition between indoors and out. Forget TVs, soaking
tubs or air-conditioners. This is an island that calls for warm wood floors and lazy
ceiling fans, open windows and open minds, and hotel dining rooms that feed you a
steady diet of local fish, cocoa tea, and heaps of mangoes, papayas and passion fruit.
It’s a place where you catch yourself about to order a rum and Coke and instead ask
the bartender for the freshest squeezed anything.
To authentically experience Dominica, you need accommodations as distinctive as
the island. Here are six of our favorite lodgings, including a few genuine finds.

COCOA COTTAGES Stepping through the colorful Dutch door and into Cocoa
Cottages’ Honeymoon Suite, you’re greeted by the words of the Dalai Lama hand-
painted on a chair: “Remember that not getting what you want is sometimes a won-
derful stroke of luck.” It’s hard to imagine, though, that the kind of person who
makes it to this six-room lodge deep inside Roseau Valley won’t find what they came
for. Guests here are on independent journeys — travelling light while looking for
deeper experiences.
“People who need to be here — whether they realize it or not — somehow find us,”
says Cocoa’s deliberative owner, Iris Azoulay, her Israeli-born accent warmed with a
slight tropical lilt from years in the islands. 5
6
And the “needs” that Cocoa satisfies? Portsmouth 4

“It’s all about connecting,” she says of the mind-body experience that comes from Melville
Hall airport
getting in touch with elemental Dominica. The food she prepares is fresh-plucked
from the surrounding bush or fresh-caught from local waters — you’ll hear the village Dominica
fishwife blowing a conch shell to announce a sweet new haul of mahimahi or tuna.
Everything’s served family style in an alfresco kitchen/dining room that feels so much
3
like eating at a friend’s house that you reflexively help clear the table. The convivial

30 miles
Morne Trois Pitons
atmosphere encourages conversation that connects you to simpatico souls. National Park

The rooms — four in the main lodge, plus two in a rounded cottage that feels
like a treehouse — were built of Dominica hardwoods by a local Rasta, with sub-
sequent interior touches by Iris and other artists. Book the Honeymoon Suite and Canefield
airport
you’ll nest amid the forest canopy in a plush bed surrounded by louvered windows. 1 Boiling Lake
The outdoor living room/deck stands high above a stream, with a rustic driftwood Roseau ★
swing and a hanging bed. 2
Connecting you with the island’s most adventurous side, Extreme Dominica, based
out of Cocoa Cottages and with a team of professional guides led by Iris’ partner, Soufriere
Richard, takes small groups on canyoning trips that use climbing gear to explore awe- Scott’s Head 1. Cocoa Cottages
2. Jungle Bay
inspiring sights no other visitors ever see. Between them, the couple offer everything
Trafalgar 3. Beau Rive
you’d want to connect and commune with the Nature Island — and sometimes, the best Falls 4. Indigo
luck is getting just what you want. $104 year-round; cocoacottages.com; 767-448-0412 5. Picard Beach Cottages
6. Red Rock Haven

BEAU RIVE A single, gangly palm tree brands the view from any place you stand
at Beau Rive, towering improbably tall and steadfast above all the other greenery
against a dramatic backdrop of Atlantic waves crashing into Wakaman Point. After
getting to know Mark Steele, the soft-spoken owner, designer, head chef and host of
this classically comfortable guesthouse on Dominica’s rugged east coast, just south
of the Carib Territory (home to descendents of the Carib people, or Kalinagos, who
used only spears and arrows to hold off the world’s greatest military powers), you
get the idea that he identifies with that lone tree.

66 Caribbean Travel + Life  j u n e / j u ly 2009

 primal kneads
After struggling for years to break through as a musician and actor in England, Mark, An ocean soundtrack
at 40, decided instead to break away. Fittingly for a lifelong fan of classic films, like soothes in Jungle
Bay Resort’s Spa
Casablanca, that romanticize the lives of tropical expats, he set off for the islands.
du Soleil. Opposite,
“When I got to Dominica,” says Mark, “I realized I’d landed in the Caribbean I from above: Break a
always hoped to find — unspoiled by modern mass tourism.” sweat with a vigorous
rainforest hike, then
Life for this would-be Rick Blaine, though, was anything but romantic at the
put your feet up in one
start. Mark slept under a lean-to for two-and-a-half years while he and a borrowed of Jungle Bay’s simple
cow chopped and chewed their way to clearing the land. He planted 170 flowering yet seductive cabins.
and fruit trees even before construction began, and thanks to Dominica’s wild fe-
cundity, the gardens surrounding his six-year-old guesthouse already look decades
old, overflowing with theatrically blossomed ylang-ylang, frangipani and several
color variants of flamboyants. Paths lead into a forest and down a steep trail to the
Richmond River, which borders the property and runs to a rocky beach. A separate
piece of land in the hills supplements the supply of fresh produce for the restaurant
— where the three-course menu changes nightly — and provides the cocoa beans
for Mark’s homemade chocolate.
The 10 rooms — eight in the main lodge and two in new cottages — reflect their
designer’s interest in old movies: cool, clean and classic, with off-white walls and wide-
planked hardwood floors. Ceiling fans, screened windows and carved transoms above
louvered doors welcome the sea breezes and the sound of the ocean swells tumbling
the stones down on Anse Francais. Each room opens onto a veranda that overlooks the
forested valley, a pompadour of trees swept back over the headland by the wind, and of
course, that iconic palm. From $180 year round; beaurive.com; 767-445-8992

68 Caribbean Travel + Life  o ct o b e r 2009

 JUNGLE BAY “When I bought this land, they were laughing,”
recalls Dominica-born Sam Raphael. “This was the wasteland,
the useless part of a banana plantation, unproductive, worth-
less.” Now, after turning this rugged stretch of steep hillside
above a wild and rocky Atlantic beach into one of the Carib-
bean’s most lauded eco-resort/wellness retreats, Sam is the one
who's laughing.
At the resort’s Spa du Soleil, you almost laugh too — in be-
tween groans of pleasure coaxed by a strong-fingered masseuse
from the nearby village of Petit Savant. While the relaxing smells
and sounds you’ve come to expect at spas are nearly always
canned, here exotic plants and wildflowers surround the treat-
ment room, and outside the open wall, genuine ocean waves
crash against a craggy outcrop just off the beach.
With 35 cabins scattered and blended into acres of steep
hillside thick with tropical cedar, and gommier and mammee-
apple trees, Jungle Bay guests feel like they reside in a secret
forest colony. The ground falls away so precipitously that the
cabin balconies stand propped on stilts up to 30 feet high while
the entryways sit on solid ground — and the climb to some of
the rooms is a decent warm-up for the island’s hikes. Inside, the
cabins’ open beams and unfinished walls capture a comfortable
simplicity that keeps the focus on nature. Outdoor showers and
porches strung with hammocks ensure that you spend most of
your time in the elements.
Following a strict sustainable philosophy, the resort’s res-
taurant uses dozens of local fishermen and organic farmers to
supply the full range of Dominica’s extraordinary bounty for
healthy dishes that go heavy on fresh fruits, veggies, seafood
and chicken. Jungle Bay has also created a series of nonprofits to
help local entrepreneurs and disabled children. The entire staff,
drawn from the four neighboring villages, donates 10 percent of
tips (matched by the resort) to a community fund and then votes
on which local projects to support. So whether you come here
for a yoga retreat, or an adventure or wellness vacation, you can
feel even better knowing your dollars are touching nearly every
family in southeast Dominica. $195 in low season ($209 high),
including breakfast; junglebaydominica.com; 767-446-1789
INDIGO If your definition of “cottage” is four walls and a sen-
sible arrangement of windows, you’d have to call Indigo’s Tree
Cottage an abstract take. Waking up groggy in the mosquito-
netted bed of this minimalist study in bamboo and driftwood,
you might wonder who stole the front wall. But after slowly
taking in the fanciful collection of rustic furniture, the colorful
canvasses on the three walls, and the bird’s-eye view of the for-
est that includes exotic birds looking back at you, you remem-
ber that everything is just as it should be at Indigo.
Three miles outside Dominica’s second city, Portsmouth, up
a goat track of a road leading to a knife-edge ridge smothered in
overexuberant plant life, lies the rustic home and studio of Marie
Frederick and her husband, Clem. A couple of years ago, Marie,
a self-taught artist from Normandy, began serving ital snacks and
fresh juices to visitors who came to see her art. Eventually, she
agreed to cook full lunches and dinners on an appointment-only
basis. When Pirates of the Caribbean came to the island, Johnny,
Orlando, Keira and the rest took to spending long days at Indigo,
and once they found themselves relaxing in the Frederick’s eclec-
tic plein-air gallery, enjoying fresh-as-can-be meals cooked over a
primitive wood stove and getting to know Clem — possibly the
first real Rasta some had ever met — the next step in Dominican
cultural adventure was asking to sleep over. Thus was born the
Tree Cottage, a single, separate guesthouse that Clem built on the
ridge above the gallery, with a basic kitchenette, rustic furniture,
a private cold-water shower, an outhouse with view of Morne
Continued on page 91

DOMINICA ACTION PLANNERS

DIVING Whether it’s the mixing
of currents, the nutrients from
all the rivers or the heat from
the volcanoes, the diving is
spectacular. Down south off
Scott’s Head, you’ll dive the
edges of a submerged volcano
with dramatic underwater
up the lazy river topography that’s a jumble of
From the west-coast wrenched rock and flourishing
town of Portsmouth, a reef. Corals, sponges and fish
legion of local guides seem to grow bigger around
offer boat excursions Dominica, and juveniles of all
up Dominica’s calm, species crowd the reefs. Nature
brackish Indian River. Island Dive (natureislanddive
.com; 767-449-8181) will guide
you to the best sites within the
Soufriere-Scott’s Head Marine
Reserve (two-tank dives: $80).
SNORKELING AND SHORE
DIVING Famed and named for
the volcanic bubbly streaming
from the seafloor just offshore,
Champagne Beach offers much
more than geological novelty.
The shore diving here — with
giant barrel sponges (above)
in 30 feet of water, a huge
spur covered in some of the
healthiest Caribbean corals
you’ll find, and Dominica’s
trademark biodiversity, including
seahorses and frogfish —
compares to the best medium
and deeper sites of Bonaire,
the gold standard. Snorkelers
can play in the bubbles among
clouds of baitfish before
heading out to the reef’s shallow
spots. Irie Safari (767-440-
5085) offers shore dives ($50,
including equipment) with PADI-
certified guides; for snorkeling
($2 park fee), it’s worth the extra
$5 to go with a guide.
WHALE WATCHING Dominica is
home to a year-round population
of female sperm whales and
their calves, along with pilot
whales and spotted and spinner
dolphins. In winter, male sperm
whales show up to compete for
mates, along with humpbacks
and other seasonal visitors.
Anchorage Hotel Whale Watch &
Dive Center (anchoragehotel.dm;
767-448-2638) offers 3½-hour
tours for $50.
CANYONING Go the extra step
(or leap) by strapping on a helmet
and climbing gear for an Extreme
Dominica (extremedominica
.com; 767-448-0412) canyoning
adventure. Be prepared to
go over the lip of a 40-foot or
higher waterfall — rappelling
down some falls and jumping off
others. It’s an adrenaline rush
that also offers quality time at
places deep inside Dominica’s
rainforest. Extreme’s excursions,
such as their Beyond Titou
Gorge and Beyond Boiling Lake
canyoning adventures, often
begin where others end. From
$150-$200, including equipment,
transport and lunch.
HIKING Ken’s Hinterland
Adventure Tours (khattstours
.com; 866-880-0508) guide you
to all of Dominica’s adventure
sites, from a low-stress trip to
see and swim in a trifecta of
waterfalls (Titou Gorge, Emerald
Pool and Trafalgar Falls: $60), to
the most demanding rainforest
hikes (Boiling Lake: $50; Morne
Diablotin: $70). For adenture
with a side of culture, try the
Kalinago Experience ($70) in the
Carib Territory and a trek ($60)
led by a Rasta who will show you
how he lives off the land.

C A R I B B E A N T R AV E L MAG.co m  Caribbean Travel + Life 71

villa vacations
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C A R I B B E A N T R AV E L M AG. CO M
Continued from page 71
aux Diable (Devil’s Peak), and thanks to an electric line run in
2008, even a small fridge. While it’s certainly not for everyone,
Indigo’s Tree House is definitely one of the Caribbean’s most
unique stay-overs. From $100 year-round; indigo.wetpaint.com;
767-445-3486. Gallery open Friday through Monday, 2 to 6 p.m.;
meals for up to four guests by appointment only (get there before 6
p.m. or you miss the view).
RED ROCK HAVEN Three surprises wait at the end of a long
driveway just east of the town of Calibishie on Dominica’s
north coast. There’s a lot of local chatter about this area. Peo-
ple say it’s here that the next big little things in island tourism
will erupt. When you look up and do a double take at the
incongruous (for Dominica) sight of a killer villa — complete
with Southwest flagstone facade, stone terrace with infinity-
edge pool, and plunge pools off bedrooms — you realize
something’s already happening. The second surprise comes
along a sandy trail that winds through sea grapes and palm
trees and leads to an honest-to-goodness beach bar. A beach
bar on Dominica? That would seem to imply … A few more
steps along the path, and damn if you don’t break through the
green growth into sunlight and onto an actual beach of soft,
multihued sand (no artificial ingredients here).
The beach, Pointe Baptiste, forms a supple stretch of coast
between startlingly red volcanic cliffs. A small outcropping just
offshore rebuffs incoming waves, so there’s even a permanently
calm spot for soaking and snorkeling. After your bare feet get
over the shock of being loosed from stiff hiking boots and ca-
ressed by the warm sand, you shuffle back to the bar and meet
Stacey and Gina Hovde, who left the temperate rainforests of
the Pacific Northwest for the tropical kind in Dominica. Last
March, they opened the immediately popular Escape Beach Bar
& Grill (palapa-topped tables in the sand; tropical pizza, octo-
pus in coconut sauce, passion-fruit pie) and the first two rooms
of Red Rock Haven. Their Bamboo Guestroom invites restful
romance with a private terrace above the grove just behind the
beach, while the Caribbean-style Garden Cottage stands on a
hillside overlooking the coast and includes a full kitchen. The
outsider art
Part guesthouse,
part gallery, Indigo
features paintings
by artist and owner
Marie Frederick.
 Travel +
Caribbean
Caribbean Life+ 91
Travel Life 91
big test, though, awaits the completion of
the 3,000 square foot Grande Ocean Villa
(slated for late this year), when they’ll dis-
cover if there’s an upmarket clientele look-
ing for big luxe amid the lush. Rooms $200
in low season ($225 high); villa $600($650
high); redrockhaven.com; 767-445-7997.
Escape is open from noon until 9 p.m.
PICARD BEACH COTTAGES
Dominica’s longest beach spills into Ports-
mouth’s Prince Rupert Bay. Coal-black
above the high-water mark, Ayohayo
Beach’s fine-ground sand turns coffee col-
ored where it’s percolated by the wavelets.
Just behind the beach, two rows of Creole
cottages sit amid clouds of bright tropical
blooms. It’s here that producers and writ-
ers for Pirates of the Caribbean washed
ashore during filming. Nameplates still
hang above the doors, and while it doesn’t
have the same historical significance as a
“George Washington slept here,” you do
find yourself wondering if your cottage’s
previous tenant, Jerry “Mr. Blockbuster”
Bruckheimer, also used the fridge to chill
mangoes he’d bought five for two bucks
at a roadside stand or hung his wet bath-
ing suit below the ceiling fan to dry.
Picard is owned and operated by the
Armour family, Dominican tourism pio-
neers who’ve outfitted these 18 cottages
as rustic little vacation homes with basic
kitchens, air-conditioned bedrooms, nice
front porches and even Wi-Fi. You can’t
get closer to a better swimming beach
on the island; there’s a dive shop within
walking distance; and even though the AC
at first seems odd on cool, green Domi-
nica, you’ll definitely appreciate it when
it comes to sleeping here at sea level on
the leeward side, where the heat and mos-
quitoes can be prickly. Despite its status
as temporary home to at least one movie
mogul, Picard is a budget pick — and it’s
worth upgrading to the beachfront units.
The cuisine and service at the adjacent
restaurant are lackadaisical, but there are
several dining options nearby. The most
inspiring sight at Picard, though, may be
the 600-plus-year-old samaan tree that
watched Columbus sail by. It’s at least 20
feet around at the trunk, and you can’t
help but wonder: Was Jerry Bruckheimer
as tempted to climb it? From $80 in low
season ($160 high); picardbeachcottages
.com; 888-790-5264 CT+L
Caribbean Travel + Life
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RADISSON FORT GEORGE
HOTEL & MARINA
A vacation in paradise awaits you at the
Radisson! We offer the services &
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Way. Stay cool in the pool. Stay relaxed in
our clean, comfortable rooms. Dine in
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Phone: 800-333-3333 or 501-223-3333
Fax: 501-227-3820
amin.dredge@radisson.com
www.radisson.com/belizecitybz
93