Travels

in

the
Deserts

Upper Egyptian

BY

ARTHUR
INSPECTOR-GENERAL OF UPPER

E.

P.
EGYPT,

WEIGALL
DEPARTMENT OF

ANTIQUITIES
*A

AUTHOR THE

OF

{A

REPORT AND

ON

THE BALANCES

ANTIQUITIES
IN OF UPPER PROFESSOR THE

OF CAIRO

LOWER

NUBIA,' MUSEUM,'
'a

CATALOGUE GUIDE TO

OF

WEIGHTS THE

ANTIQUITIES GEMNIKAl'

EGYPT,'
VON

'

DIE

MASTABA ETC.

DES

(WITH

BISSING),

SECOND

IMPRESSION

William

Blackwood
and

and
London

Sons

Edinburgh

1913

ALL

RIGHTS

RESERVED

arts

TO

SIR

GASTON

MASPERO,

K.C.M.G.,

ETC.,

ETC.,

ETC.,

DIRECTOR-GENERAL

OF

THE

DEPARTMENT

OF

ANTIQUITIES,

EGYPT,

THIS

BOOK

IS

RESPECTFULLY

AND

AFFECTIONATELY

DEDICATED.

PREFACE.

Some

of articles

the
in

chapters
'

in

this

book

have

appeared
The made ous variin

as

Blackwood's
here

Magazine.'
have the in work the

journeys
the and

recorded
of

been
of

ordinary
have

course

inspection,
official
have

been These

reported
less

usual

manner.

technical

descriptions
and from the

been
here

written

in

leisure

hours,

illustrations

published photographs
The

are

selected

large
made

number

of

and

drawings
to

rapidly Wady

by

the and

wayside.
Kossair
was

journey
made
in

Hammamat of Mr

the

company

three

painters,

Mr

Charles
Mr Erskine also

Whymper,
Nicol,
to

Walter
whom Mr

Tyndale,
thanks
are

and

my John

due,
whom

as

they
to

are

to

Wells,
I
am

with indebted

travelled

Gebel
Mr

Dukhan.

to

Prof.

Sayce
on

and

Seymour inscrip-

de

Ricci

for

several

notes

the

Greek

viii

Preface.

tions

at

Wady

Abad.

On

some

of

the

journeys

was

accompanied
Mahmoud

by
Effendi

Mahmoud

Effendi

Rushdy
of

and

Muhammed,

Inspectors
whose

the

Department
valuable.

of

Antiquities,

assistance

was

ARTHUR

E.

P.

WEIGALL.

Luxor,
Upper Egypt.

CONTENTS.

I.

THE

EASTERN

DESERT

AND

ITS

INTERESTS
.

II.

TO

THE

QUARRIES

OF

WADY

HAMMAMAT
.

28
.

III.

THE

RED

SEA

HIGHROAD

56

IV.

THE

IMPERIAL

PORPHYRY

QUARRIES
...

90

V.

THE

QUARRIES

OF

MONS

CLAUDIANUS
.

.115

VI.

THE

TEMPLE

OF

WADY

ABAD
. .

.141
.

VII.

NUBIAN

HIGHWAY

169

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PLATE

PAOB

the

head

of

wady

gatar
.
.

Frontispiece
IS SEEN ON THE NEAR

I.

IN

THE

DESERT.

THE

AUTHOR

CAMEL
.......

10 10
.

ON

THE

EDGE

OF

THE

EASTERN

DESERT

II.

DESERT

VEGETATION.

THE

COLOQUINTIDA

PLANT

16
.

NEAR

VIEW

OF

THE

COLOQUINTIDA
ABAD

PLANT.

GRAPHED PHOTO-

IN

THE

WADY

.16
. .

III.

ONE

OF

THE

RIDING

CAMELS
....

20 20
.....

ONE

OF

THE

CAMELS

IV.

MARKS

AND

INSCRIPTIONS

ON

ROCKS
.

30
.

V.

UNDER

THE

TAMARISKS

OF

THE

OASIS

OF

LAGETA
.

36

BIR

HAMMAMAT,
OF

LOOKING

SOUTH
.

.36
. .

VI.

CARTOUCHES

SETY

II.

ON

THE

ROCKS

BETWEEN

BIR

HAMMAMAT

AND

WADY

FOWAKHIEH
.

40

INSCRIPTIONS

ON

THE

ROCKS

BETWEEN

BIR

HAMMAMAT

AND

WADY

FOWAKHIEH
. .
.

.40

VII.

INSCRIPTIONS

AND

MARKS
.....

46

VIII.

THE

CAMP

IN

WADY

FOWAKHIEH,
ON THE NORTH

LOOKING

DOWN

FROM

THE

HILLS

SIDE.

THE

CAMEL

TRACKS

ARE

SEEN

PASSING

ALONG

THE

VALLEY
.

50

WADY

FOWAKHIEH,
WILL BE NOTICED

LOOKING

EAST.

THE

CAMEL

TRACKS

AGAIN
.
.

.50
.

IX.

ABANDONED

SARCOPHAGUS

ON

THE

HILLSIDE

IN

WADY

FOWAKHIEH
......

54

TYPICAL

VALLEY

NEAR

WADY

FOWAKHIEH
. .

54

X.

ROCK

INSCRIPTIONS

AT

WADY

FOWAKHIEH

AND

KOSSAIR

60

xii

Illustrations.

XL

BIR

ES

SID,
SEA

THE

WELL

AT

THE

HIGHEST

POINT

OF

THE

RED

HIGHROAD

66
.....

THE

ROMAN

FORTRESS

OF

ABU

ZERAH,

LOOKING

EAST SOUTH-

.......

66
FROM A HILL TOP TWO

XII.

DESERT

PANORAMA

HOURS'
THE

RIDE

EAST

OF

BIR

ES

SID,
TO

LOOKING

EAST.

ROAD

IS

SEEN

PASSING

NORTH

AND

SOUTH

OF

THIS

HILL

AND

JOINING

UP

FURTHER

TO

THE

EAST

.......

74
BOATS
ON THE

XIII.

KOSSAIR.

ARABIAN

BEACH

80
" "

STREET

IN

KOSSAIR
"

80
"

XIV.

THE

INTERIOR

OF

THE

MOSQUE
OF THE

AT

KOSSAIR

86
. "

THE

MAIN

ENTRANCE

FORTRESS

AT

KOSSAIR
LOADING THE

86
.

XV.

THE

START

FROM

KENEH.

NATIVE

POLICE

CAMELS

......

90
GHAITEH. CAMELS

MIDDAT

REST

AT

EL

FEEDING

FROM

THE XVI. THE

BUSHES

......

90
AT EL

ROMAN

STATION
THE

GHAITEH,
ON

LOOKING

DOWN

FROM

OFFICERS'
BORDERED

QUARTERS
BY

THE

HILL.

DRY

RIVER-BED

BUSHES

RUNS

ACROSS

THE

PLAIN

......

96
WATER INSIDE THE

TANK

FOR

STORING

STATION

OF

EL XVII.

GHAITEH

......

96
THE ENCLOSURE OF EL SAR-

THE

EXCAVATION
GIEH

INSIDE

.......

104
STATION AT EL

THE

ROMAN

GREIYEH. SUPPORTED NIGHT-STALLS

THE

ANIMAL

LINES.

THE

BRICK

PILLARS

THE

ROOF

UNDER

WHICH

WERE

THE

104
. .

XVIII.

GRANITE

HILLS

TO

THE

SOUTH

OF

WADY

BILEH.

THE

GEBEL

DUKHAN

RANGE

IS

TO

THE

NORTH

OF

THIS

WADY

.......

108
ROMAN TEMPLE AT GEBEL

RUINS

OF

THE

DUKHAN,
THE

SHOWING

THE

HILLSIDE
TAKEN

FROM

WHICH

PHYRY POR-

WAS

"

"

"

"

108

Illustrations.

xiii

XIX.

THE

RUINS

OF

THE

TOWN

OP

GEBEL

DUKHAN.

THE

UPRIGHT

PILLARS

OF

GRANITE

SUPPORTED

ROOF

114

THE

ROMAN

TOWN

OF

MONS

CLAUDIANUS,
LEADING

LOOKING

SOUTH

FROM

THE

CAUSEWAY

TO

THE

MAIN

QUARRY.
FOREGROUND

THE

ROUND

PILES

OF

STONE

IN

THE

ARE

BUILT

AT

INTERVALS

ALONG

THE

CAUSEWAY

.114
.

XX.

MONS

CLAUDIANUS.

THE

TOWN
.

.120
.
.

MONS

CLAUDIANUS.

CHAMBERS

ON

THE

WEST

SIDE

OF

THE

FORECOURT

OF

THE

TEMPLE.

THE

THRESHOLD

AND

BASE

OF

COLUMN

OF

THE

GRANITE

PORTICO

ARE

SEEN

ON

THE

RIGHT

.120
.

XXL

MONS

CLAUDIANUS.

EAST

END

OF

THE

TEMPLE

124
.

MONS

CLAUDIANUS,
TEMPLE ON THE

LOOKING

OVER

THE

TOWN

TO

THE

HILLSIDE

124
....

XXII.

MONS

CLAUDIANUS. BATH-HOUSE

DOORWAY

LEADING

FROM

THE

HALL

OF

THE

INTO

THE

ROOM

IN

WHICH

WAS

THE

PLUNGE-BATH.

ORIGINALLY

THE

WALLS

WERE

PLASTERED
.

.128
. . .

MONS

CLAUDIANUS.

PEDESTAL

OF

THE

ALTAR

IN

THE

FORECOURT
SEEN BROKEN

OF

THE

TEMPLE.

THE

ALTAR

ITSELF

IS

IN

THE

FOREGROUND

.128
.

XXIII.

MONS

CLAUDIANUS.

THE

FIRST

HEATED

ROOM

OF

THE

BATH-HOUSE.
INTO THE WARMER

THE

DOORWAY

ON

THE

LEFT

LEADS

ROOM.

THE

PERPENDICULAR

CUT

IN

THE

LEFT

WALL

NEAR

THE

CORNER

IS

ONE

OF

THE

RECESSES

IN

WHICH

THE

HOT-AIR

PIPES

WERE

FIXED

132
......

MONS

CLAUDIANUS.

THE

SAME

DOORWAY"

NEARER

VIEW

132

XXIV.

MONS

CLAUDIANUS.
TO THE NORTH-EAST

LARGE

GRANITE

COLUMN

LYING

OF

THE

TOWN.

THE

BACK

WALL

OF

TEE

TOWN

IS

SEEN

BEHIND

THE

COLUMN,
ARE SEEN

ABOVE

WHICH

THE THE

TEMPLE

BUILDINGS

AT

THE

FOOT

OF

GRANITE

HILLS

138
.
"

xiv

Illustrations.

XXIV.

MONS

CLAUDIANUS.

LARGE

GRANITE

COLUMNS

LYING

AT

THE

FOOT

OF

QUARRY
OF ABU

WEST

OF

THE

TOWN
.

138
THE

XXV.

THE

ROMAN

STATION

GEHAD.

SOME

OF

ROOMS

AS

SEEN

FROM

THE

COURT,
OF WADY

LOOKING

WEST

142 .142

FRONT

VIEW

OF

THE

TEMPLE

ABAD
.

XXVI.

THE

TEMPLE

OF

WADY

ABAD.
SQUARE
TIMES TO

THE

EAST

END

OF

THE

PORTICO.

THE

PILLAR

WAS

BUILT

IN

GRjECO-ROMAN

SUPPORT

THE

BROKEN

ARCHITRAVE

146
......

THE

TEMPLE

OF

WADY

ABAD.

THE

EAST

WALL

OF

THE

PORTICO.

THE

KING

IS

SEEN

SMITING

GROUP

OF

NEGROES

146
......

XXVII.

THE

MAIN

ENTRANCE

OF

THE

ROMAN

STATION

OF

WADY

ABAD,
.

LOOKING

WEST

FROM

INSIDE

THE

ENCLOSURE
.

.150
. . .

THE

PILES

OF

STONE

ERECTED

OPPOSITE

THE

TEMPLE

OF

WADY

ABAD

150
.....

XXVIII.

INSCRIPTIONS

AND

DRAWINGS

IN

AND

NEAR

THE

TEMPLE

OF

WADY

ABAD
.

.154
. .

XXIX.

ARCHAIC

DRAWINGS

OF

SACRED

BOATS

ON

ROCKS

NEAR

TEMPLE

OF

WADY

ABAD
. .

.156

XXX.

ARCHAIC

DRAWINGS

OF

SACRED

BOATS,
OF WADY

ANIMALS,
ABAD
.

ETC.,
162
.

ON

ROCKS

NEAR

TEMPLE

XXXI.

GREEK

INSCRIPTION

RELATING

TO

AN

ELEPHANT

HUNT.

ON

ROCK

TO

THE

EAST

OF

THE

TEMPLE

OF

WADY

abAd
.......

166
OF THE TEMPLE OF WADY

SKETCH-PLAN

ABAD
.

166 174
.

XXXII.

THE

INSCRIBED

ROCK, ROCK,

FROM

THE

NORTH-WEST

THE

INSCRIBED

FROM

THE

SOUTH-WEST.
.

174
IT TOWARDS

XXXIII.

THE

ELEPHANTINE

ROAD,
......

LOOKING

ALONG

ASWAN
VIEW OF THE ISLANDS IN THE

184

RIVER,
AT THE HEAD

ETC.,
OF

FROM

NEAR

THE

INSCRIBED

ROCK

THE

ELEPHANTINE

ROAD
. .

,184
. .

Travels

in

the

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts,

THE

EASTERN

DESERT

AND

ITS

INTERESTS.

know

young certain the that The

man

who

declares

that

after
of
a

reading journey
his

explorer's

description
he found

across

burning
his will in read
nose

Sahara,
was

to

amazement

covered
remember he and
swear,

with

freckles.
on

reader

perhaps

how,
has
sat

some

rainy
fire
and

day
has

his

childhood,

over

the -dreams

sea-stories
he

dreamed have
the
art

sea

until

his
one's

lips,

will

tasted
of

salt.

Alas,
is time

little

agility
for such

in the

narration
at

wholly
of

inadequate
life, of
of those
a

tion, produc-

this

any who

phenomena
to

upon

the

gentle

skins
one

chance of

read

these

pages.
one

Were

master-maker lead the

ture, literaso

might

herewith
A

imaginative

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

straight might
which

into

the them

boisterous
so

breezes in

of

Egypt,
they

one

hold
streams

entranced the

the

sunlight
would

over

desert, that
be

feel, wherever

they might
sun

seated, the
upon
to

tingling
cheeks,
as
a

glow
and

of the

and

the

wind hands The of

their
eyes their and

would
from

hold the
as

their

their
of
;

shelter would

glare.
those the

walls Jericho host

rooms

fall flat would

see

outside
invaders

they
"

advancing
the north

of the the

the

sunshine,

wind,

scudding
And

clouds, the
the the would blue

circling eagles, the

and the

glistening sand,
rocks.

shadows,

rampant
sack the owls

night closing over

see

the

of their brilliant
;

city,they
stars,
the would

the

moonlight,
the of solemn the

bats, fluttering
hear of the

and and

they
the If

wailing
in the

hyaenas

barking
one

the

dogs

the

distant

camps.

only
such
to
a

possessed

ability,one
for those who

might
knew fallen
to

weave

magic carpet
upon

how

ride

it,that, deserting the

would had

Jericho
land there of

of their the vaders in-

habitation, they
which be

fly
seen,

the

they

and

they would by
the eyes

kept

as

spell-bound and
as ever a

dazzled child
was

of the

wilderness
sea.

dazzled

by

tale of the
But whether

with
the

this

lacking ability
will be able

it is very
to

doubtful

reader

appreciate the

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

writers
a

meaning
cry from
to

and,

without

the where

carpet, it is
these words read.
account

far

Upper
the will I

Egypt,

are

written,

fireside
venture

where
to

they

are

Nevertheless
here of
some

give

an

journeys hope

made of of
to

in the

Upper

Egyptian
in much the find
a

desert, in the

rather than

arousing

interest record

fascinating country
information reader
some
new

placing on
science
;

of

value in

although

interested material

Egyptian archaeologywill
upon which desert
to

speculate.
a

The

Upper
to
a

Egyptian
few. The

is

country
as

known
as

only

very

resident,
his eyes bare

well the

the

visitor, in Egypt

raises
to

from

fertile lowers
he has

valley
them looked of be who the
seen

of
once

the
more

Nile

the the the

hills, and
that

with wall There of

feeling garden,
this

at

the

the very

boundary
much and
to

land.
and

is, however,
behind
the

studied into

wall

those
will
new

penetrate
find

solitudes
in
new

beyond
world of In

assuredly
colours,
old
new

themselves

forms,

and

interests.

the
mental orna-

days

precious
was

metal

was

sought here,
-

stone

quarried, trade
Red of

routes

passed
of

through
Egypt,
to
sees

to

the
later amidst

Sea, Rome,
hills.

and

the

soldiery
from

and

marched
The

station
as one

station
it
now

its
so

desert

is,

to

speak, peopled

with

the

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

ghosts slopes
remains
the

of
or

the in

Old obscure

World

and
one

on

hidden with

hillthe

valleys
settlements of the who and

meets

of

ancient and

scattered

through

length
The climb

breadth of persons

country.
have
to

number the

had wander
one

the

energy this

to

garden
is the
so

wall

into

great
the

wilderness
upon

small

that

might
the the
met

count

names

fingers. Lepsius,
over some

German
routes

Egyptologist, passed
on

of

which

antiquities were
the Russian
;

to

be

with

GoleniscbefF,
some

Egyptologist,
the the of

checked German

of

his

results

Schweinfurth,
to
a

explorer, penetrated
and localities,

many

unknown

mapped
the under

great part of the

-General

country;
of Public made
a

Bellefonds
Works survey and years the in

Bey,

Director

Egypt
Sea

Muhammed

Aly,
between

of the Red

mineral
;

belt
and

lying
and
to

the
score

river of

during

the

last have The

various

prospectors
of

miners them. is
now

visited ment Governin

certain

points

interest

Survey mapping
valuable while for this

Department
Eastern have years

engaged
and
two most

Desert,

reports
a

already
there

been existed Mr

published
a

few whose

Mines

Department,
made and

director,
with

John
of the

Wells,
routes

himself
most

acquainted
the

many

of

mining

centres.

Thus,

most

of

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

the made

journeys
over

here

to

be

recorded

have
;

not

been

absolutely new
reports
of

ground
the

though, except

for the and

a

expert

Survey Department
it would be
on

some

papers
matter

by
to

Schweinfurth,
unearth
any

difficult

literature

the

subject.
one

In

describing these
enabled
to

journeys,
in the is eyes

ever, hownot

is often

indulge
one

unpleasing places which

Those need the way between of A
to

recollection
no

that

writing
have will
seen.

of

other have how

European
in

who be

travelled
the

Egypt

not

told
to

Nile, flowing down

sea,

from

Sudan

the the

distant wide

pushes
:

its

silvery passing regions

cliffs.
more

through
the

desert

now

granite hills, now

and
now

through
the limestone

sandstone,

under

strip
six

of
or

verdant

cultivated miles
the is

land, seldom
and often

than many

eight
borders

wide,
broad the take

only

as

yards,
on

river; and
desert.
an

beyond Upper
ride either

this,

either
one

side,
seldom
west

In

Egypt
due
on

may
or

afternoon's
out

east to

due

without
sand of
a

passing
limitless
the

the

sun-baked

wilderness hills.
the the be

or

into

the

liquid shadows
we are

of
not

towering
with

For
western

the

present

concerned

desert, which Sahara,

upon and

actually forms
one's

part

of

great
turned

back

may

therefore

it.

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

Eastwards,
there is in

behind
most

the

hills of the

or

over

the
a

sand,
wide the

parts

country
and
sun

undulating plain, broken

limestone from but
a a

here the

there beats feels table.

a

by

outcrops.
vast

Here and upon the

a

down himself In all

sky,

traveller brazen

fly crawling
the hot desert sand the and of and bushes

directions

stretches, until, in
meets

leaden The from

flected re-

haze,
hillocks
the

the rise in

hot like

sky.
islands

points
the

of

rock

floods
;

mirage

which
are

they

are

sometimes
to

there the

clumps
of

of the

withered
waters.

tell of

unreality

The

scenery

here

is often lends

of

exquisite beauty
to

and
when
to

its very
for
a

monotony
while

it

an

interest
ceases

the

grouping
and
a
new

of the

hills

offer

new

pictures
out
on

harmonies towards this helmet the looks

to

the

eye. Sea with and

one

Setting
rides
sun

journey
over

the

Red

on

camel-back

rolling plain,
from
;

the the

bombarding charging
which

one's it from often

above

wind

flank in

and,
for

as

noonday
rock

approaches, one
to

vain

under sand

find

shade. than

Naturally
the

the

glaring
under

is far

hotter in the

shady
;

earth the is not up in

the

palms

cultivation
of the

but

air stagnant, dusty, fly-filled

to

groves

be

compared

with

the

clear

atmosphere

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

the

wilderness. sickness

There and that

are

no

evil death. think

odours The

here,
wind
not

breeding
blows
so

beckoning
one

purely
earth

might gods
ocean

it had
it from
not

touched

since The the

the

released

the less fair

golden
to

caverns.

wide
of

itself has than

has

appeal

to

sense

smell

the

desert.

Descending
one's blue

from
the

the sand

camel and

for

lunch,
up

one

lies the

on

back
of

upon

stares

at

deep
of
a

the

sky

and

the

intense

whiteness the Nile

passing
may above

cloud.
seen,

Raising oneself,
perhaps,
with
;

valley
in the one's in the

still be

its and
Then

palms floating
away
across

the the
of

vaporous

mirage
cliffs rise.

distance
range

pale
a

sight
and

butterfly zigzags,blazing
it the
extreme.

sunlight;
and face the of the

behind
more

blue

becomes
one,

darker
on

white

Around
a

the of of

desert, there
:

is

jumbled
of

collection

things
coloured carnelian Across
manner

beautiful

brown

flints, white

pebbles
orangegypsum, of

limestone, yellow fragments ochre,

and

sandstone,

transparent

pieces
sand

alabaster

chips, glitteringquartz.
of there the
are

the
of of

clear
recent

patches
of

all

footprints,and
is
one

incidental

study
a

these

the
one

richest
may
see

delights of
the there fourthe

desert

journey.

Here
a

pronged footprints of

wagtail,

and

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

arger

marks
are

of

crow.

An
to

and eagle's

vulture's the

footmarks of

often those

be

observed, and
such
as

fication identidesert is
a

of the for

birds

the
courser

partridge happy
attracts

or

of

cream-coloured
one's
a

exercise

ingenuity. rapid

Here

the

light,wiggly
the

line

of

lizard's

tour

abroad of
some

attention, reminding
over

one

American
there short leave and
one

route globe-trotter's

Europe
seen

and

footprintsof jumps
their
may
a

the

jerboa
its hole.

are

leading in
or

towards

Jackals
in
across

foxes

dainty pad-marks
sometimes
come

all

directions,
the
to

heavy
meet

prints of
with In
a

hysena,
of
a

while

it is not

unusual

those the

gazelle.
one

afternoon

rides

onwards,
hills ahead. shines
one

and may

perhaps
now

hazy

view
in

of the

the far

granite
distance
and that
to

be
sun

obtained
soon

The in
sees

loses
over

its the

strength,
desert,
so

slantingoneself

lines in

shadow the

stretched

out

amazing lengths, as
of

though
were

magnetic
self. is at
Each

power in the human

night
camel

in

the

east

already dragging
its dark
sand

reluctant
or

darknesses

to

footprint
blue desert's
and the

in the

this

hour

basin dent
same

filled with in

shade,
surface

while
is

every

larger
of
that
an

the
;

brimful
so

blue

colour

is

opaque

that

Arab

lying

therein

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

clad
at
a

in

his

blue

shirt Above

is
one

almost the

indistinguishable
white clouds

distance.
too

go

tearing by,
on some

busy, goal
to

too

intent, it would

seem,

far-off The

hover and
now

blushing around
the
one

the

sun.

light fades, plain ;

has of been the the and

camp

is

pitched
to

on

the

open in
a

is

glad

wrap hot the

oneself
tea

large overcoat,
desert.
desert

and

to
over

swallow
a

the
of

which

prepared

fire

dried
The

scrub

nights in
the

are

as

beautiful
often bed

as

the

days, though
With

in winter of
one

they
a

are

cold. bitterly
and

assistance

warm

plenty
open

of
in

blankets,
comfort
vast
;

however,
and

may

sleep
who how the

in

the known

only
will
one

those

have

this

bedroom
be. Mars If

understand
turns
to

beautiful
one

night
stare

may
at

east,
over

may

flashing red
there One

somewhere

Arabia, and
above the

westwards Sahara.
of

is

Jupiter blazing
up and of and up
at

looks

the

expanse of

star-strewn

blue,
the

one's
dreams

mind before

journeys sleep
in
mid
one

itself into
come

place
it
one;

has

to

conduct

thither. the
and

The floats

dark

desert

drops
with peer and

beneath

bed
below. would

-air,
but small the the

planets
over

above

Could
be
a

the
as

side, earth
the
moon.

seen

as

vivid

But
the eyes

trance

holds upon

body

inactive, and

are

fixed

io

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

space
one

above. down
to

Then,
to

quietly,a puff
as

of wind from

brings
ness dark-

again
darkness.

realities

it passes
returns

Consciousness
out

quickly
the
as

and

gently, points
the

the

aspect

of

night,

indicates and of

larger celestial
one

bodies, and
to

quickly whispers

gently
sleep.
When

leaves

again

the

tender

there

is the

moonlight region
;

there

is

more

to

carry

the there

eye

into

of for

dreams
the

on

earth

than
out
no

is in the
one

heavens
a

desert

spreads
haze, and
The eye
nor

around limit
can

in be

silver, shimmering
to

placed
the whether

its

horizons.
the

not can-

tell where
mind dimness hands of of know of the the
to

sand

meets

sky,

can

the the the of

other an-

there
one

is any

meeting.
whether
out

In

coming sleep sky

are

wonders

always just
there

of

reach

those

desert, whether

is

always
hill

mile climb
;

journey

and

always
one

another

to

and,

wondering,
At dawn
to
see

drifts

into
one

sciousness. uncon-

the the

light brings
sun

back
behind

to

earth the

in low

time hills.
is

pass the

up

from

In

contrast

to

vague

night
The hour
or

the

proceeding precedes
and the
ere

rapid

and

business-like.
half
an

light
so

its monarch soft colours

over

only by
have

the

been

fullyappreciated, flings a
sharp

sun

appears

the

rocks

and

In

the

Desert.

The

Author

is

seen

on

the

near

camel.

On

the

edg-e oi' the

Eastern

Desert.--

Page

30.

Pl.

1.

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests,

beam
a

into

the the the

eyes camp

of every is stirred
or

living thing, so
and awakened. ride
one

that

in

moment

During
enters

second

third

day's

ally generis lost

the

granite regions, valleys

Here which
one

and

one

amidst
the of the hard with

the of

intricate the

pass may

between

peaks
shelter cliffs
;

hills. the
as

find

plenty
of the

from
and

sun's

rays

in

the

shadow
over

the
or

camel
as
one

jogs along
sits
for
a

gravel tracks,
the the back

refreshment

propped
which the
one

against
be

great

grey

boulder,

view
On

is to
side

enjoyed
the dark the

is often

magnificent.
porphyry,
and
on
or

granite,
towered while
and
a

breccia
walls side

rocks of
some

rise up

like

buttressed the other

fairy-tale city ;
behind range,

range

rises

thousand
and
sun

peaks
with
these

harmonise
the blue of

their
the

delicate

purples
the

greys
sets

sky.
flushed

When

lofty peaks
between

are

with
and

pink,

and,
carry
one

like
to cannot

mediators the
dark
see.

earth

heaven,
which scrub

valleys the
There is

tale of

glory
of

usually plenty
which luck the three
one

to

be

found

in the

valleys with
with

to

build

the
plenish re-

evening fires, and

the the
camp

good

might
flesh
one

food-supplieswith
two
or

tender

of

gazelle. Every
beside
a

days
where

may

well

of pure

water,

the

camels

12

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

may

drink, and
refilled.
Near these
to
:

from

which

the

portable tanks
sometimes
their of the little

may

be

wells
found

there

are

few of

Bedwin

be

tending
sons

herds

goats

quiet, harmless valley.

the One's

desert, who

generally own
the Nile

allegianceto

some

Shekh and pass

living in
camel-men
the

guides
them,
and

exchange greetings with

news over

latest
one

camp

fires.

Often,

however,

may
a

journey

for many
or a

days without
four-footed the

meeting
of

either
on

human

being

animal, though

the

well-marked

tracks and

prints
are

goats

and

goatherds,camels
No
a

camel-men,
direction
one one

apparent. travels, hardly

matter

in what
on

day

passes
trace

which

does

not

meet

with
a

some

of

ancient

activity. Here
a

it will be
a

deserted
fortress rocks.
or

gold-mine, there
town,
and of
seems

quarry
an

here

ruined
the
so

there the
to

inscription upon
are

Indications
and
one

present day
be
so

often
a

lacking,
that still,

Time

much

at

standdim

slipsback
The years

in

imagination to
one

the

elder

days.

fall from

like of

garment
from

doffed, and
their
goes

one

experiences a
A kind of of who

sense

relief

weight.
with the of

exhilaration,
the

moreover,
men

thought
years ago

life of

the

of

thousands

lived

amongst

these
were so

changeless hills

and

valleys.

Their

days

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

13

full One

of

adventure but
to
on

they
at

were

beset

with

dangers.
the the

has

look the

the

fortified beacons
were

camps,

watch-towers

heights,the
how brave

along
the
"

highroads,
times."
of the One's of the the

to

realise of the Desert of

a

olden hills

One Eastern

peculiar charms
is their

of

these

impregnation
adventurous
be
so

with

atmosphere
mind

shadowy

past.

is conscious, if it may of old

expressed,
of old drift behind these here

ghosts
Dead these

sights, the
dead the

echoes

sounds.

ambitions,

terrors,
or

through
the rocks

valleys on
rocks. this the the

wind,

lurk

tumbled tell how

on

Rough
captain
very
or

on inscriptions

that the

centurion
modern and
on

rested, and
rests to
ease

spot

traveller
to

self-same before

aches

enjoy

the
an

self-same identical
On Nile rise
one

shade

moving
day

towards

goal
third passes

in

the
or

east.

the

fourth
the much

after

leaving
which feet ; and the

the

beneath
to
as

mountains,
as

here yond be-

sometimes
these the

6000

road

slopes through
Red Sea
400
on

valleys
may be Nile.

down any

to

the

barren from the

as one

coast, which
miles the from
coast

distance is

100

to town

the

Kossair

opposite
; and

Upper Egypt,
north of

it

was

also

in ancient
was

times

Berenice, opposite Lower

town

Nubia,

the

only other
does
a

Sudan

territory.

Kossair

14

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

trade fast-diminishing of

with

Arabia, and

handful in the of

Egyptian coastguards is kept mildly busy

of

prevention
the
or

smuggling.
coast

The

few

inhabitants
their

Egyptian
dream
an

fish, sleep,say
of their age

prayers, death from

are

in the

shade advanced

hovels releases
of

until them

at

extremely
boredom
stock
one

the of

of existence. sometimes another in

a

Those enliven
more

them their

who

Arab

days

by

shooting
manner,

or

less and of

sporting
more mote re-

and

by wandering
thereafter the energy is
a

to
;

other those

settlements
blood have
not

but

Egyptian
amount

even

for this
over

of

exertion.
which for

There

lethargy
with of

the
own

desert
desire and the
are

contrasts

strangely
the the
on

one's the

activityunder
of be observed

influence
of

sun

wind, and
to

records

ancient
It must
sons

toil which
be
a

all sides.
come as

that
race

we

of

the its with

present day

the

of land
a

still in

youth
the
old

and

in

this
remnant

silent
of

we

meet

only
have

worn-out

people who

been

these
was a

thousands

of years.
reason

There the

threefold

for the Desert.

activities of
from Firstly,

ancients
a

in the

Eastern Nile the

Koptos,
Kossair

city on
there
ran

the

not

far from

Thebes,

to

great
;

trade-route Suez
to

with

Arabia,
there
was

Persia, and
a

India which

from the

Koptos

route

by

traders

from

Syria

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

15

often
a

travelled

from the

Edfu

to

Berenice of
;

there

was

trade-route the
ancient

for

produce
of Pount the Nile

Southern while other often there of

were

Arabia roads used

as

and from

land

point to point

of

were

short-cuts.
numerous

Secondly, in gold mines,

which

this desert

very
was

the

working
made And
to

which the

one

of

the of

causes

Egypt

richest the the

country
ornamental
hills and
were

the
stones

ancient which

world.
were

thirdly,

be

quarried in
the and the of

in continuous of

for requisition

buildings
Rome.

statuary
There

Egypt, Assyria, Persia,

to

is much but
most

be

said
will review
at

in

regard
of
a

to

goldmore

mining,
than the
was

here

space

not

permit
the date

cursory in

information.

Gold

used
the

Egypt
there

considerably
history
in

prior

to

beginning
are

of

written
many

Dynasty

I., and

archaic
The

objects
situation due

richly decorated
of many of the

with

that

metal. of the

early cities
in close of
one

Nile
two

valleyis
cities of
another the the
two.
case

solelyto

this

industry.
the

When

high
on

antiquity are opposite banks Upper Egypt,

the
case

proximity
river, as

to

one

is often that the

in

generally finds
is the older and of

city on
In the which
on

western

bank

of

Diospolis Parva opposite to

one

Khenoboskion,
the and

stand
west

another,
ancient

former,
is the

the

bank,

is the

more

capital

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

of

the
not

province, and
date earlier the

the than
on

latter, on

the YI.

east

bank,
Ombos
historic pre-

does
and

Dynasty
the
west

Of

Koptos,

former,
around dates

bank, has
the

cemeteries
the
east

it ; while from and

latter, on
I.
at

bank,

Dynasty

the

earliest.

Hieraconpolis
each

stand Eileithyiapolis the

opposite to
the
west

other, and

former, which
more

is

on

bank, is certainlythe
and

ancient.
on

Of
east
case

Elephantine

Syene,

the

latter,
And the

the the
on

bank, is by far the

of
west

less ancient.

in

Pselchis

and

Baki
near

(Kubban),
it
an

former,
fortress
;

the while

bank, has latter, on

archaic

the than found

the XII.

east

bank, does
The
most
reason

not

date this is

earlier
to

Dynasty
in the in

of

be

fact

that

of the

early cities

were

engaged
into cities the from the
were

gold-mining,and
Desert for
on

despatched
that the purpose.
western

caravans

Eastern

These bank of

usually built
the of main end

river, since
end
to

routes

of

communication
western to to

Egypt passed along the

stations
eastern

desert. founded

Mining
on

had,
bank

therefore,

be the

the
;

opposite
soon

parent
cities shore. each of

cities

and
as

these

stations
those of the
at
on

became
western

themselves
Thus these for the
cases

large as
indicates

the

antiquity mining
of

eastern

city in
same

least

that

antiquity

the

gold.

Desert

vegetation.

The

Coloquintida plant.

near

view

of the

Coloquintida plant.

Photographed

in the

Wady

Abad.

Pl.

ii.

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its Interests.

17

Throughout gold
idea
was

what

is known

as

the

old

kingdom,
an

used the from

in

ever-

but increasing quantities, of the of

were

of

wealth
the of

mines the

will

best

be

tained ob-

records

Empire. by
with
the

About
Yizir

250,000
Rekhmara
was

grains
in
a

gold
from in

drawn

taxes

Upper
of

Egypt,

and

this
taxes state

but

small kind.

item
A

comparison
a

the

levied
wrote

in
to

king

north Pharaoh end

Syrian
of of in

Amonhotep

III.,the
towards
brother
measure,

Egypt,
letter

asking for gold, and

he
"

the

his
very send

says

Let

my

send
and
to

gold
father
as

large
more

without quantities,

let him
;

gold
god

to

me

than

he
is

did
as

my

for in To

my

brother's
Amon

land

gold
of

common

dust."

the

alone

Rameses

III.
to

presented
other In made the
to

some

26,000
gave
at

grains
the the

gold, and
time Priest
very

the

gods

he

same

large sums.
Amon
was

later also

times

High

of

director
of

of the
vast

gold mines,
from

and the

it

was

diverting
the

this

wealth

crown

church
the

which

was

mainly responsiblefor
line.
must

the

fall of

Ramesside
A
ever

subject
remain

here

be
to

introduced
the

which

will

of

interest

speculative. Some portion

the of of

have desert

thought
is to
and be that

that

the

southern with

this
the
are

identified
the old
B

Ophir

Bible,

gold-workings

here

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

none

other of
a

than

"

King Solomon's
reads,
"

Mines."

In the

Book made

Kings
navy
on

one

And

King
Red in

Solomon
which in is the his
sea, to

of

ships
the And

in

Ezion-geber,
of the
sent

beside
land

Eloth,
of Edom.

shore
Hiram had

Sea,
the of

navy the
came

servants,
with the

shipmen
servants

that
of

knowledge
And

Solomon.
thence and be there

they

Ophir,
and

and

fetched

from

gold, four
it with

hundred
to

twenty

talents,

brought
identified
;

King
Arabia,

Solomon." since seek end

there

Ophir
is
no

cannot

gold
ancient

and
at

hence

one

may

this land
of

of

wealth

the

southern If

the that

Eastern the in in

Egyptian
Hebrews
on

Desert. have

it is
found

argued

would

difficulties unmolested contended

may for have
on

carrying Egyptian
other
some

mining
that with

operations
may

territory,it King
the

be

the

hand

Solomon
Pharaoh
:

made

bargain
the former if the

example,
tract

that
of

might
latter

mine

in

certain timber wood

desert

might
of have

cut

in

the the

Lebanon.

The

purchase
to

cedartaken

by
and

Egyptians
this

is known

place at
made stretch
;

about

period,payment
it does
not to

in

gold being
undue the
at

therefore
the

require an
suppose

of

imagination
mined

that

Hebrews the time

themselves
when

the

gold. Again, reigned

in

King

Solomon

all his

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

19

glory
Egypt
unable

in
sat to

Palestine,
upon

the

short-lived
and

Pharaohs
were

of

tottering thrones,
the

wholly
from
vasion. in-

protect
The

Eastern
often in

Desert
state

Egyptians
hostile

that

they
and Bedwin

encountered
these may
not

forces have

this

land,
of

always

consisted

marauders.
No
savant

has

accepted

for
at

moment

the

various
end of

theories
the

which

place Ophir
;

the
most

southern
common

African

continent

and

the

view
land of

is that

Solomon
so

obtained
referred is

his
to

gold
in

from

the

Pount,

often

Egyptian
to

tions. inscripbeen

This situated
Professor vague
tract

country
the

thought
of

have
;

in

neighbourhood
points out,
and

Suakin
is
a

but,

as

Naville

it
may and

somewhat
a

geographical term,
of

include
south

large
this

country
One very
cannot

to

the

north

of

point.

imagine
over

the

Hebrews
seas

trating peneto

far

the

unknown

the

perilous harbours
them
more

of

Middle
in

Africa
the
or

one

pictures dangerous
or

easily huddled places

in that such of
as

less

ports

of

Kossair Suakin.

Berenice,
is
thus

at

farthest

that
some

It

quite
in the

probable
desert

of
are

the

gold-workings through

here and will

described
that the

actuallyKing
is the

Solomon's which the

Mines,
reader

country

be

conducted

wonderful

Ophir

20

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

itself.

Certainly
continued

there

is

no

one

who

can

state

conclusivelythat
Work the

it is not. with
of

unabated

energy

during
the

later

periods
and

Egyptian
Roman the

history, and
were

Persian, Greek,

treasuries

filled mines.
to

consecutively
Several

with

produce
make
one

of

the

classical

writers sometimes
of

reference is told

these

operations,and
name

the

actual

and
a

situation

the the
the

workings.
mines
work
was

Diodorus
the

gives
miners
stone
was

description of
and
wore

in

Wady
The The and

Alagi,

tells how
a

done.

lamp
to stone

tied
the

to

their

forehead.

was

carried
in

surface

by children,
iron old

pounded
then This

mortars
a

by

pestles.
men

It

was

ground

to

fine

powder
ore was

by

and
on

women.

powdered
residue

washed in

clined in-

tables, the
crucibles
was

being placed
and

earthen and

with

lead, salt,
for

tin

for

fluxes,

there

baked
how

five

days.

Agatharchides
negroes

describes
out

the

prisoners and
unutterable
the

hewed

the

stone, and, with

washed
out

toil, crushed
The

it in mills and Arabic the

grains of gold.
states

historian, El
of

Macrizi,
ben

that
was

during
great
the

reign

Ahmed
the

Teilun

there

activity in
Eastern found
in the

mining industry throughout

Cufic
of inscriptions confirm

Desert, and
old

this date

workings

this

statement.

One

of the

riding camels.

One

of

the

cai

Pl.

hi.

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

21

From work will have these

no

then,
was

until
;

modern

times,

however,
as

little
reader

done doubt

but

in recent many and of

one

years,

the

know,

the

ancient

workings
that if

been
are

reopened, reallyto
be

must
as

admit

regarded
must

King
had
a

Solomon's
somewhat

Mines,
lower
The

that

potentate

have

opinion of Ophir
other
cause

than

tradition ancient been

indicates.

for the
as

activityin
said, the
of vases,

the of

Eastern ornamental
and

Desert
stone

was,

has

need

for

the

making

statues, earliest

architectural bowls
other and

accessories.
vases

From

the

times
and and

of
were

alabaster, breccia, diorrte,

used

fine stones

by

the

Egyptians, quite a
of
ettes, statu-

the

quarriesmust
later of

have

already formed
the

flourishingindustry.
and and

Soon

making
this it

statues,
of

enlarged
the Cairo
are

industry,
and with

with

the
The

growth

civilisation

creased. steadilyin-

of galleries

Museum,
massed
stone

those
statues

of

European
and other hills

museums,

objects quarries
archaic
not

cut

in Nile

brought
the Red

from

the The

between

the
of
to

and

Sea.
were

breccia
from

Wady
Roman from

Hammamat

worked

days

the plied sup-

Tourquoise Mountains,
the
markets taken
two
or

far

Kossair,
world
;

of from three

the

ancient
the

white

granite
there
were

was

hills of Um

Etgal
con-

alabaster

quarriesin

22

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

stant

use

and

in

the

time

of

the
was

Roman

Empire
the
see

the

famous

Imperial porphyry
of Gebel
at

quarried in
may

mountains blocks of

Dukhan.

One of

still

breccia
of

Hammamat,
at

granite at
numbered

Um

Etgal, or
at

porphyry
of

Dukhan,

lying abandoned
and in

the

foot

the

hills,although
to

actuallyaddressed
which of
to
are

the lived

Caesars.

The

towns

the

quarrymen and

still stand
who has

in defiance the energy

the

years,

the
the

traveller distant
walk

penetrate
situated since

into
may the

valleys where through

and
streets

they
trodden un-

there

days
the

of Nero

Trajan,
the

and

yet still littered with

of the In and blocks.

chippings from

ing dress-

the

old

days

the

provisioningof
must
;

the

mining
the lishing estabwith

quarrying
of

settlements
of the

have and

taxed
the

ingenuity even
the distant

Egyptians
lines of have

workable
Nile

communication

must

required
often In

the

most

careful
were

organisation.
of

The

caravans

bringing food
several

great
of

size, for

there
to

were

thousands VI.
used
one

hungry
of
200

miners

be fed.
and
50

Dynasty being
60,000
in

reads

donkeys
and the In of in

oxen

in the
of of
one

transport,
formed

Dynasty

XI.

loaves
food the

bread

daily requirements
late
some

expedition.
an

Eamesside
9000
men

times
was

food

of

expedition

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

23

carried of
oxen,

on

ten

large carts,
porters
The
on

each

drawn

by
are

six

yoke
to

while

"innumerable" families of and

said

have

been

employed.
lived
a

the these

men workalso

generally
had
an

the which

spot,
is

to

be

fed

"

fact

indicated, too, by
in
one

which inscription miner

states

that

expedition
of

each

required twenty
this
must

loaves

bread

per

diem.
Whenever consequences

organisation
have in
10

broke awful.

down In

the
this
sisting con-

been

quarrying expedition
of from
one

Ramesside
per
;

times,
of them

9000
cause

men,
or

cent

died

another of the

and

later
In

writers
summer

speak
the could The

of

the

"horrors"

mines.

heat
not

is intense

in
have
so

the

desert, and

the

wells
water.

always
are

supplied
hot that and

sufficient

rocks

then

they
one's

cannot

be
are

touched

by

the

bare
the
to

hand,
feet.

boots
in the

little

protectionto
the

Standing
from upon blister

light, sun-

ring
few

has

be

removed
a

one's the

finger,
flesh. white

for

the
a

hot

metal
hours the

burns of

After

exercise
the has

there eyes

is
are

lather
with them
must
;

upon the and have

lips,and
which the
as

blinded
around miners

moisture
thus what

collected
and

quarrymen

suffered
stones
no

they
can

worked

upon

the

scorching

tongue

tell.

24

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

In

ancient
as a

Egyptian
curious if
or

times from
to

the
a

camel
far
use

was

garded re-

beast

country,
in

and

was

seldom,
three

ever,

put

any

Egypt.
are
now

Only
known,
animals

four
never

representations of
occurs

it
any the

and

it

amongst
walls of

of

the

depicted
bears,
rare

upon

the

tombs,
other It

although foreign
was
an

elephants, giraffes,and
creatures,
are

and

there
not

shown.

Asiatic
as

animal,
an

and of

was

introduced

into

Egypt days
and of

agent

transportation until
Romans. alone the
of

the
oxen,

the human

ubiquitous beings
for

Donkeys,
used
in

were

Pharaonic
of

days
the

transporting
the

necessities
their
to

the

labourers

and

produce
were

work and

and
in

probably
sedan-chairs.
to

officials
Even

carried Roman

fro
is

in

days there
was

nothing

show and

that
one

the
may

camel
not

very

largely
too

employed,
the of

amuse

oneself
a

confidently Empire
the

with astride

the

picture
hump

of of

centurion

of

the

the

rollingship

desert.
of
course,
one

Nowadays,
camel
in the
or so

travels

entirely by
of
a

desert.
one

For

an

expedition guides.
in
tents

fifteen dozen of
;

days
camels
the

generally requires about

one or

all told, and carry loaded

two

Some
tanks
;

animals
are

the with

water

portable
and

others

the

beds

and

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

25

others drinks.

carry The

the

boxes

of

tinned

food
and

and

bottled
as

whole

caravan

rattles

bumps

it passes

through
from and The

the

echoing valleys,and
a

one's of

cook

rises

amidst kettles camels

clattering medley
are

saucepans

which
are

slung
at

around the
rate
some

his saddle.
of
two to

obtained, diem,
or

three holds

shillingsper
himself With
means a more

from

Shekh,
for one's

who

less

responsible
and
so a

safety.
are

steady
the the

steed

good

saddle
as

there

few

of locomotion
art

able enjoyit is first

camel-riding.
and forgotten,
of the from

Once

is learnt of the need

many

never

after

tortures

day

or

so

first

expedition,one journeys.
one's

never

again
may

suffer

stiffness,though
the
due
to

months

elapse

between

This

inary prelimthe

suffering is
outset to
;
a

inabilityat
to

adjust
but the and

the

muscles
comes

the

peculiar

motion
after One
a

knowledge
ever

unconsciously
about four

while

remains. the
rate

jogs along
or

at
an

of

and

half

five miles

hour, and
ease.

some

thirty miles
camels
start

a-

day

is covered
at

with three

The
an

baggage
hour.

travel

about

miles the

They
catch
one

first, are
at

passed during long

the
rest

morning,
are

up

the

for

luncheon,
and

again passed
about
an

during
after

afternoon,
halt
has

arrive called.

hour

the

been

If

possible,all

26

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

the

camels

drink of

every

second

day, but
for three

they
or

are

quite capable days without

can

going strongly
and,
or

four

water,
for
a

when
more

really

necessary,
a

travel

week

through
in

land

without While

wells.

the

Mines
were

Department
tried
were

was

existence
and
cessful. unsuc-

experiments
motor

with

automobiles
no means

which bicycles,

by
roads

Many
Desert be
pass
over

of

the hard

main

in
a

the
motor

Eastern
may

gravel, and
the sunk
no

driven
If

with wells

safety over
were

unprepared
ten
or

camel fifteen
from

tracks.

every
to

miles, there
a

would
;

be

dangers

be feared

breakdown

and

under
the

favourable
to

circumstances
Red In

the be
one

journey

from

Nile
a

the

Sea the

might
future

accomplished
may

in

morning. energetic

picture
or

the

tourist
over

leaving
the open the

his Luxor

Cairo
now

hotel, whirling
one

plains where valleys in

to

crawls, rushing through

camel-rider ruins
on

which
remote

the

lingers, ing penetratdeserted

the

the

and
to

workings,
coast

and the upon

emerging
sea, to

breathless
his of the

golden
to

of

wave

handkerchief Indian
come

his

friends

the

decks
must

liners. when
sicken
venture

The

time

surely Egypt
and

the of the

owners

of automobiles
roads around

in

will will

short the

Cairo,

beyond

The

Eastern

Desert

and

its

Interests.

27

garden
will the be

wall that

towards the of these the for

the

rising
of

sun.

Whether

it
and

re-working
ornamental persons
to

the

gold
will

mines
attract

quarries
of that way

stone

the

attention
or

this

wonderful automobilists
the

ness, wilderwill

enterprising
the
some

pave

the

miners

and the the

quarrymen, will

it is with
with
two

certain
the the open
rose

that
once

day
and

desert
rocks Had and

blossom

more,

reverberate
I
now

sound
hands I of the for

of

many

voices.

in

my how for

pearls, diamonds,

rubies,
of them
"

gladly
the

would

give

them
"

or

some

sight
and One

misty
the

mountains of
the

of

the

Eastern
of
to

Desert,
hills
next

feel

sharp
enthusiasm
and

air

the the
not can-

looks
to

forward

with

visit
but

these

unknown those who

regions,
have

one

feel

that

it in
in

their

power

to

travel
the hears

there walls
in

are

missing
the little
the
;
one

much

remaining
of

within
One their the
"over

of

garden
camels feels
to

the

Nile.
as

imagination
are

grunting
the be the

saddles

adjusted
;

tingle
off

of

morning
the

air hills

and

one

itches

again,

and

far

away,"

into

solitary

splendour

of

the

desert.

II.

TO

THE

QUARRIES

OF

WADY

HAMMAMAT.

The
mat

so-called
known
to

Breccia
to

Quarries
all

of

Wady

Hamma-

are

Egyptologists
historical
rocks of the

by

name,

owing
which

the
cut

important
on

inscriptions valley. mainly

real
name

are

the

In

reality
or

the

stone

quarried
volcanic ash

there
and
"

was

tuff,
of of the

consolidated

the the

the Pots

locality
"

is

Wady

Fowakhieh,
niceties
do of late made
not

Valley
the

but

such

trouble

age aver-

archaeologist. copied
and Russian

Many
the

the

inscriptions

were

by

Lepsius,
notes

German

Egyptologist,
by
Golenischeff,
two
a

further
savant

were

but
has

except
studied

for the

these

persons

no

Egyptologist
been
seen,

quarries.
few road occasions
to

They

have

however,
as

on

by

Europeans
passes

and,
the

the in all
at

caravan

Kossair

along
are

valley
to

which
the

they
natives

are

situated,
who have

they
crossed
1907

known

the I found

desert

this

point.
to

In

November historic

it

possible

visit

this

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

29

site, and

was

fortunate of three

enough

to

obtain who of

the

companionship
very

English
to

friends in search

pened, hapmild

opportunely,
at out

be

excitement We
set
our

the from

time.
Luxor
one

morning
all
of

in

ember, Nov-

caravan

consisting in
of which
two
were

twenty-

three four the

camels,
selves, my camelmen,
with

nine

ridden the

by
Shekh

our

servant,
and

guards,

of
were

the

guide, while
tents, the
tended

fourteen and

loaded

the and

three
were

baggage, by
a

the

water-tanks,
men

dozen
on

camelOur of

who led

made eastwards Mut

the

journey mainly
from Luxor

foot.

road the

past the
in

temple
the

goddess
so

at

Karnak,

reflected towards

its sacred

lake, and
sun.

along day
was

the

highroad
a

rising

The

cool, and
us,

strong invigorating
the
same

breeze Before desert

raced
us,
as

past
we

going
behind its the

in the the

direction. sunlit
of
to

crossed

fields, the
soft green

lay

stretched
which

the the

tamarisks

border

edge.
limestone

Away

right the
form the

three

peaks
and

of

hills,which Thebes,
could
we
rose

characteristic

background
to

of

into the
the

sunlight;
ranges

the

left

one

discern
were

distant

behind

which

to

penetrate.
On

reaching
towards

the
these

desert

we

turned

off

wards northof the

hills,skirtingthe

edge

30

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

cultivated
road which north shade

land

until

we

should Nile
After

pick

up

the

ancient

leaves
of

the

valley

some

twenty
and
a

miles
in the

Luxor.

luncheon

rest
was

of the and
we

rustlingtamarisks
did
not

the

ride

continued,
the

again
of

dismount

until, in
which marks
was

mid-afternoon,
behind
the of here

the
town

Coptic monastery
Qus,
to

is

situated
the

and

which
Red

beginning
;

the the

road camp of

the
was

Sea,

reached

and

pitched.
miles
the air

The had

quiet

five-hours'

ride

about

twenty

sufficed to

produce healthy appetites in

the
were sun

party,
turned
in

and, when

went
to

down attack
"

and
an

the

cold,
the boxes

we

glad
of the
as
a

early
one

dinner

warmth

mess-tent

of

the four

camelsaddles

serving
the
next

table, and
chairs.
we

the

taking
The and

place
eastwards
out

of

morning
before
over

set

out

soon

after

sunrise,
here The in
a

rode

into
us

the
a

desert, which
of

stretched road

in open

blaze

sunlight.
and sand the
"

passed

the

gravel
hard el

series of

tracks parallel camels.

was

beaten

by

pads
the

of

generations of
of the
a

Gebel before wide

Gorn,
;

Hill

Horn,"

passed
saw

noon

and,

ing mount-

ridge, we
to

the

plain across by
low
a

which

we

were

travel, intersected

dry

river-bed able Unstill

marked
to

for its whole find

length by
and these

bushes.

shade,

bushes

being

1-3.

Marks On
On

on

rock

near

Quft.
Old

4-6.
7.

rock

near

Qus. Lageta.
el
Benat.
"

kingdom
32.

drawings

stone

at

"

Page

8,
10-12.

9.

Inside On rocks

Kasr

Page
el

33.

opposite inscription
Kasr

Kasr

Benat.
"

Page
el Benat

34.

13,

14.

Sinaitic

opposite
Benat.
"

Kasr

"

Page

34.-

15-20.

Opposite
Marks Middle
on

el of

Page

34.

21-24.

rocks

Abu

Kueh.

"

Page
and

34.
marks
at

25-32.

kingdom
34.

inscriptions,

Abu

Kueh.-

Page

PL.

IV.

cJJ_

^V

fTIB"PIOYKAAYAlL
KTOKPATOPOCnANITl

QC
r~
b

fL. Jj
'

r^
"

/7N
4. T
12

|JT
',, ^
|0

\N60CnPOCTATHC
^
i
.

Pl.

iv.

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

31

some

distance
at
a

ahead,
where
us

we

lunched

in the

open
over

light sun-

spot

the

wind, sweeping
coolness
which

the

ridge, brought
desire. We from Indian The the
were
now

all the

we

could

on

the

great
which
was

mediaeval the
once

highway
and

Qus

to

Kossair, by
with

Arabian

trade

Egypt
the road

conducted.
main from
now

quarries of
sea.

Hammamat

lie

on

the

road Keneh

to
;

Nowadays
times
ten

starts

in ancient

it started miles it

from

Koptos,
of Keneh

called
;

Quft,

about

south

and

in
ten

mediaeval miles south

days
of

started

from The

Qus,
roads

about from of

Quft again.
at

these

different which the

places join
lies
some

the

little oasis

Lageta,
from

four-and-twenty miles

back

Nile

valley.
into

Riding
was one

Lageta
charm. of haze

in

mid-afternoon The flat desert In the

the

scene

of
us

great
in
a

stretched
distance be
seen,

around ahead

heat.

far could

the

mountains

of Hammamat The

blue, misty, and

its isolated
groups few
a

indistinct.
of

little oasis, with

its four
one or

tamarisks,
and

five tall of the

palms, its
corn,

acacias,
welcome
;

its

little crop
amidst
from

formed

patch
the
with

of green

barren

wilderness

and

eyes,

aching

the
the

glare around,
soft shadows

turned
of the

gratitude towards
A

trees.

large,and

probably

32

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

ancient, well
around
or

of brackish the few poor

water

forms cluster
are

the
;

nucleus and
two
seen

which

huts

three and may

shadufs, or
there. have A

water-hoists,

to

be

here which

ruined, many-domed
a

building
perhaps
a

been

caravanserai,

or

Coptic monastery, spreading

of
a

stands and
near

picturesquely under
it
we

acacia Greek

found

the

ment fraglight
the of

in which, inscription from the

like

emerging
past,
was

momentarily
name

darkness Tiberius

the

of

the The and in the

to
our

Emperor
few

Claudius
us

to
we

be

seen.

idly watched villagers through

of the

as

dismounted
too

walked

ment, settle-

bathed bother
of
sat

languor
more

their

ous monoton-

life to interest and

do

than

greet

with

mild
knew
our

those
we

camelmen
the

whom

they
to

while

under

tamarisks
took green

drink stock

tea, the
us

only livingthing
our

which small

any

of

and

doings
of
a

was

willow-wren

in search The

crumb
was

of food.

camp
at

pitched
continued
more

to

the
our

east

of

the The

oasis,
perature tem-

and

dawn
was

we

way.

not

than
were

38" Fahrenheit constrained

to
us

when
to

the

sun

rose,

and
trot

we

break Two
now

into
desert

hard

in

order about

keep
as we

warm.

martins

circled the

went,

passing under
overhead
;

camels'
more

necks, and
once we

now

whirling
up
a

while

than

put

few

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

33

cream-coloured
into the space

coursers,

who

went
a

off with

whirr hours'
we

around.
open,

After

couple

of

riding

over

the

hard-surfaced
came

desert,
of
a

topped
Roman

low

ridge and
known

into

view
times el

ruined

station, called
and of the
now

in

ancient
as

the

Hyin

dreuma,
Castle
level the

Kasr

Benat, "the
a

Maidens." which

The the

buildingstands
low

plain around
the

hills rise, and

mountains form
sees

to
a

east

distant

Hammamat From the and

dark

background.
the north

outside

one

well-made
on

rectangularwall,
side
a one

entering the
into
an

way door-

passes of

enclosure
the

surrounded
roofs
rooms

by

series
now

small

chambers,
In

of

which weary

have

fallen in. officers and

as

these
the

little

the

Roman themselves

caravan

masters

rested the

they passed
the Nile
;

to

and

fro between

quarries and

and
warm,

in this

courtyard, when
sang dreams
that any that
one

haply
to

the

nights were
stars

they
their

their
of

songs Rome.

the The

and

dreamed
so

buildingis
as

little ruined
was

may

picture it
such

it then

without
of
men

difficulty ; and
one

is the with
and

kindness

Time

peoples the
on

place
work that

great

and their
often

good,
found

intent

their with these

happy

in
so

exile, rather
its way
the

than
to

riff-raff which

outlying posts.
entrance
to

Across

plain,opposite the
c

the

34

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

Hydreuma,

there

is

large
one

isolated
finds all Here

rock
manner

with of
are

cliff-like sides, upon

and inscriptions
two

which

rough drawings.
rare

there and

Sinaitic

of inscriptions
an

value

several

curious
marks We

signs in
and
mounted

unknown

while script,
are

Ababdeh

Arabic
our

letters

conspicuous. again
wall
at

camels
the

about

eleven
es-

o'clock,and
Salam after shade

rode

towards

of the

Medik

hills ahead,

passing into
We
of

their

shadows
in
was

soon

noonday.
of
a

halted

for

luncheon
our

the
livened en-

group the of

rocks, and
of
two

meal

by
seemed in the
an

presence

butterflies

which

out

place
the

in the

barren

desert, and

yet

harmony
hour had
on

with

of breezy,light-heartedspirit afternoon when the road

we

place. Early
not

in the

rode

on,

but

passed
rocks
where my
to

some

obvious
the

scriptio in-

the

left of
bends

track,

opposite a point
the
to

the

sharply to
proved
2000,
The
prayer the the

right,attracted
date
no

attention.

These about that

B.C.

from doubt of

the

Middle
a

Empire,
camp
were

and
names

marked

of

date.
a

various
the had than

officials
was

given, and
read.

or

two

to
we

gods
no

to

be

Rounding
ourselves
to

corner,

sooner

settled
group the
were

camels'
the

trot to

another

of

inscriptions on
a

rocks

the

right

of

path necessitated
two

further

halt.

Here

there

very

important

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

35

of graffiti

the

time

of Akbnaton
one

and the of

considerable

light is thrown period

One that
sees

by

of them

upon

fascinating
that the

of

the three

religiousrevolution
cartouches,
of which

king.
first is

of

Queen
and the

Thiy,

the

second
seems

reads
to

Amonhotep

(IV.),
name

third
;

have

given
and

the that
are

Akhnaton

but

both The the the but

this cartouche
three

of

Thiy
below

are

erased. above of

cartouches of

placed together
and the

symbols
sun's
a

sovereignty,
thus tender

rays
was

disk,
of

showing
years
came

that under
to

Akhnaton
his mothers

boy
when

guidance
that would

he

first

the

throne,

and It

the
be

Aton
too

worship

had

already begun.
to

long
this

matter

explain

the

significanceof
who
are

inscription
mind
the
'

here, but
may October
turn

those
to

of
on

an

inquiring
subject
Magazine
how the
to

the

article
of
'

this

in

number where mummy I

Blackwood's described

for

1907,
found of
a

have of

recently
be that

Akhnaton
man.

proved
when

very

young

The
more

shadows

were

lengthening
trotted
more

we

once

mounted

and

up

the

valley, which
;

presently led
half
an

into ride

open

ground
Eoman

but

after
came

hour's

second
the

station
camels

into

sight,and
The

again

grumbling
much

had is not

to

kneel.

building is

ruined, and

of

36

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

great interest

to

those other
sun

who

have

already
As
us,
we

seen

the

Hydreuma
the

and

stations.
set

continued
and in the and

journey

the

behind

growing moonlight wonderfully

became
the well

the

valley looked
The
one

ghostly
of the

beautiful.

shapes
was

rocks when
at

indistinct,and
known This amidst
as

hardly

aware

Bir

Hammamat
a

was

last

reached.

well
the

lies in

flat,gravelly amphitheatre
press in
"

rugged hills,which
all about miles
"

on

all sides.

It

is in
or

six

hours'

ride

i.e.,
;

twenty-eight
our

thirty
had of

from the

Lageta

but
over

several
that

halts

spread
time.
The

journey
well into its

twice and dark

water. recent

length
seemed

is circular

fairly large,and depths

A years side
to

stones
a

dropped
time
in

pitchin
one at-

long

striking the
restored

subterranean

stairway,
company,
;

by
the

mining

runs

down

water's
we

level
sat

and

at

its

doorway
until the

in

the

moonlight
camels
came

and

smoked

baggage
The
was now

up.
we

next

morning
and the the
on

rode

up

valley which
is the the

tortuous

narrow.

This

Wady Wady

Hammamat

of of

and archaeologist, natives.

Fowakhieh hills towered

Dark,
as

threatening
eager
at to

either
the

side,
once

though
enacted the

prison
feet.

for

ever

deeds

their

One's

voice

echoed

amongst

rocks, and

Under

the

tamarisks

of the

oasis

of

Lag-eta. Page
"

Rir

Hammamat,

looking- south.

"

Page

36.

Pl.

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

37

the round
A
us

wind the of

carried

the

sound
to
an

down
own

the

valley

and

bend, adding
about half huts

it its

quiet whispers.

ride
to
some

hour's the

length brought
ancient
Pharaohs.
a

ruined
lived

where

quarryFrom the rocks

nien

had

in the

days
for

of the

this
on

point
either
a

onwards

perhaps
with of

mile

side

are

dotted the

inscriptions,from
the

which be

part
The

of

history
is full of rocks

valley
As the of

may the

learnt. blows
-courses

place
it is

whispers.
and the up

breeze
water

round

the
as

silent
men

though

voices

long
One

since
feels

forgotten were
as

driftinguncertainly by.
rocks
were

though

the

peopled
tales is of

with

insistent
ago.

entities, all muttering

this

the

long

Behind

great

rock

there this
;

something
in

laughing quietly to
there silent silent wind is
recess a

itself; up

dry waterfall
here the It word

sort
one

of

whimpering
swear

and

this
to

might
effect the of

that

be the the the

had and

been the
and

passed around.
the
contrast

is

only by

between

exposed
rocks its
;

still such
a

places
believe
of

sheltered
as

but, with
one

history

is writ

upon
to

walls,

might
the

the those

valley
who

be

crowded suffered

with
or

ghosts
in it.

have

triumphed
the well known

Wady
to

Fowakhieh

extends
as

from Bir

the

Bir

mamat Hamwhich

Fowakhieh,

38

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

lies

in

the

open

circus
the

at

the

east

end here

of

the is of

valley.
a

Although
or

tuff

quarried
the

blue

olive-green colour,
where

surface is
an

of
a

the
sort

rocks, except
of

they
One
of

are

broken,
obtains
and and the
a

chocolate-brown. combination

thus
browns

ordinary extra-

blues, which
dim

with of

the the

flush distant
as

of

the

sunset

purple
as

hill -tops the

forms

harmony
The
a

beautiful

any of the

world
is

knows. from this

or

flat,
dred hunrun

gravel

bed

valley
and

fiftyto
level less

yards wide,
numerous

along
more

surface

camel-tracks,
another.
traces
a

with parallel
are

one

Besides

the work

inscriptionsthere
: an

other

of ancient

unfinished

shrine,

and

sarcophagus, abandoned
are

owing
the ago

to

its

having
of

cracked,
some

to

be

seen

where

workmen

five -and -twenty

here and

centuries
group of

left
huts

them
is to

and

there

ruined

be

observed. Amidst these relics of

the

old

world

our

tents

were

pitched, having
as soon

been
as

removed

from had and

Bir

Hammamat

breakfast

been
ing sketch-

finished

and

with
the
own

camera,

note-book,
us

apparatus, directions, my

four

of

dispersed in
course,

different
the

of objective,

being
Fowakhieh

inscriptions.

The

history

of

Wady

begins when

the

history of Egypt begins, and

one

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

39

must

look

back

into for the

the

dim

uncertainties
of the

of

the

archaic
of

period
the

first evidences

ing workfully beauti-

quarries in
bowls
in ago the
;

this
other of

valley. Many objects

Dynasty
and of

made
are

and graves my

this

tuff

found

I., fifty-five I, scrambling

to

centuries
over

and
were

friends

the

rocks,

fortunate

enough
from and here hawk
one

find in
the main

little

wady
a

leading
rock
-

northwards

valley
this
to

large
A
"

drawing
"

inscriptionof
offers
a

date.
the

vase-maker

prayer

sacred

barque
so

of

the

-god Horus,
may the and in
see

which
hawk

is drawn

clearly that
its shrine
the
so

the
an

standing
spear the

upon

in
;

boat,
one

upright
observe

set

before

door

may

bull's head,
to

often
prow
;

found while upon

over

primitive barque
in

countries, affixed
itself is shown
order In
museums

the be be
to

the
a

to

standing dragged
IV.

sledge
in

that

it

might
II.
that

the

ground.
the

Dynasties
show and in

the

objects
the

the

quarries were
V.
one

extensively testimony
the
name

worked,
of

Dynasty

has An

local

as inscriptions

well.
has the

official under
name on

King Asesa,
rocks
of
on

B.C.

2675,
of

left his

the who be of

south

valley;
the Of
one

and of

the

another is to

lived
seen

in

reign
the has

Unas,
of

B.C.

2650,
B.C.

there.

reign
more

Pepy I.,
definite

2600,

Dynasty

VI.,

40

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

information.
chief

Scanning
master

the

rocks

one

reads

of

architects,

builders, assistant
their
stone

artisans,
families
for of the the
near

scribes, treasurers,
stationed
at

and ship-captains, procure

the

quarries to
of the

ornamentation

pyramid
be
seen

buildings
at

king, which
Cairo
;

are

still to

Sakkara,
a

and who

these
was

inscriptions mention
the
"

certain

Thethi,
the of

master
was

pyramid-builder of probably
in

king,"
the In

and

therefore

charge

expedition.
the

reign of Aty,
came

B.C.

2400,
stone 200
B.C.

ships captain
for his master's and his

named

Apa
;

to

procure him
were

pyramid
workmen.

and

with

soldiers 2400,
sent

200
son

King
1000

Imhotep,
labourers,
obtain
50
oxen

Zaty
1200
200

with

100
;

quarrymen,

and

soldiers, to

stone

and
for

he

supplied
the
B.C.

donkeys
the of first the

and

daily

its transport.

But rocks
2050.

on reallyinterestinginscription

valley dates
an

from brief

Dynasty
story

XL,

Here

all

too

is told
an

by

great official named

made the The
to

Henu,
the
the

recording
land

expedition
Pount in III.

by king

him
year had in

to

distant

of

eighth

of

reign of Menthuhotep
Henu
to

ordered
to

despatch
myrrh

ship
that
an

Pount of of

order

bring
had He

fresh

from

land
army

and spices,
3000
men.

he

therefore
set out

collected
from

Koptos,

Cartouches

of

Sety

II. and

on

the

rocks

between

Rir

Hammamat

Wady

Fowakhieh.

s/4^
m/f

on Inscriptions

the

rocks

between

Bir

Hammamat

and

Wady

Fowakhieh.

Pl.

vi.

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

41

travelled

over

the
so

open struck

desert
the have

to

the

little oasis
we

of

Lageta,
followed. for
a

and He

road had
"

which much I of made

had

seems

to

tion considerathe I road gave

his

men,

for desert

he
a

says, stretch

river, and
leather

the

field.

bottle, a
loaves When of

carrying of bread
one

pole,two
to

jars
one

of water,
men

and every

twenty

each

of the

day."
loaves

considers
per of At
some

that
one's

this

means

60,000
the
must
seems

bread

day,
the

respect

for

organising
be
to

powers

ancient

Egyptians
he for the works towards The

considerable.
have and

Wady
pushed
he
went.

Fowakhieh

organised presently he
as

quarry
on

the

king,

Bed

Sea, digging wells

which
;

tion, expedithen scribed de-

will and

be

recorded
states

later, is

Henu

that,

on

his

return

to

Wady
some

Fowakhieh,
five blocks
statues.

he
stone

organised
which
were

the

transport
to

of
for

of

be used

making
In the

second
B.C.

year

of
so

the
runs

reign
another

of

Menthu-

hotep IV.,
"

2000,

"

long
was

rock
to

inscription,
the

the with

Vizier
an

Amonemhat

sent men,

quarries

expedition

of

10,000

consistingof miners, artificers, quarrymen,

draughtsmen,
officials. block
of His the
stone
-

artists,
and

cutters,
were

gold workers,
-

orders pure

to

"

procure

an

august
in

costly stone

which

is

this

42

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

mountain,
and
of
near

for

sarcophagus,
in the

an

eternal The

memorial,
presence mines

for monuments

temples."
that

gold
Bir

workers

indicates
were

the

gold

Fowakhieh
are

also
seen

opened.
near

Ancient

workings
in
recent

still to
an

be

this
made very
as

well,
to

and

times

attempt
was

was

reopen

them,
One
that
on

which,
must

however,
this

not

successful.

imagine
"

expedition
"

camping
had

at

well

Bir

Hammamat

where
as

we

camped
up the This

the

previous night,
each

and from
a

passing

valley
was
a

day
been

to

and and

the
nearer

quarries.
One

tedious
have

walk,
much

water-supply day
have the
to

must
was
a

needed.

there

heavy

fall of

rain, which
it had

must

lasted

several

hours, for when

the

ceased

sandy
be all
now a

plain at
veritable
common

head
of

of

the

valley was
Bain

found

lake
occurrence

water.

is not

at

in
are

Upper

Egypt.

Even
at
a

the

peasants
;

peculiarly alarmed
in

heavy
quarry-

downpour
men were

and

those
to

far-off
see

days
the the the

the

ready enough
act

in

phenomenon
patron of the

direct

of the
was

great god Min,

made,"
this
men.

desert.
"and the

"Bain form

says

inscription,
in
was

of
to

god appeared
The
to

it; his
made of the have

glory was
a

shown
water

highland
the

lake, the
The

extending
of the

margin
seems

rocks."

presence

water

to

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

43

dislodged
formed when
over

an

accumulation
an

of and the

sand disused

which well
;

had and

ancient subsided
ten

the

lake

astonished
in

labourers
on

discovered every lived

its mouth,
"

cubits

length
who

its had
;

side.
aforetime
no

Soldiers
went
seen

of

old
and It

and

kings by
the
If
"

out

returned
was

its side
and

yet
had and

eye

had

it."
and the Bir
to

undefiled,

been

kept

pure from the

clean Bedwin."

from

gazelle,
this well
have

concealed
I suppose,
a

is, as
been
a

Fowakhieh, workmen,
the

it must
for

great
minutes'

boon

the from

it is but
must

few

walk

and quarries,

have Bir work. When

saved
Hammamat

them

that
at

weary end

tramp
of

down hard

to

the

the

their

day's

the had

great
been

stone

for

the of

lid
the

of

the

cophagus sar-

prised out
into
the the track young, her

and hillside, wonder

had

been

toppled
Down

valley,another
there
came

occurred.
"

running
the

gazelle great
before she

with

going
looked The watch

towards

people though
must
ran

her, while
did
not turn

eyes

backward,
quarrymen her back
as

back."
work
to

have

ceased
the
as
"

their hard the

she with

along
At

valley, looking
shouts
at

startled
her. for the

eyes last

of

the

men

assailed intended still in its

she

arrived

this

block

lid of

the

sarcophagus, it being

44

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

place ;
the
can

and

upon army the

it she
of the

dropped king
as

her

young, her."

while One

whole hear

watched

quarrymen,
"

they
a

clattered
miracle
!
"

into
and end her The

the

valley,shouting,
the
the tale upon descended is told the

miracle,

surrounded
of

incapacitated creature. briefly.

block,
to
"

The
cut

Then

they

throat block

and

brought
in that this

fire.

the

Nile

safety." sarcophagus by
an

Another lid of
was

states inscription

dragged
sailors

down from

to

the
the

river

army that
stantly con-

3000

Delta,
incense
the
to

and
were

sacrifices

of

cattle, goats, and

in order
an

made
must

to

lighten
block

labour.

It
;

have
even

been after

enormous

drag along
the it

for

it

was

dressed
masons

into in

required
was

shape
some

and
14

size in

by
Two

the

Egypt, brought
same

feet

length, 7

feet in width, and blocks

the

3J

feet

in from said
was

thickness.
these
to

other
at

down
are

quarries
been
20 17

about in

date
a

have

feet

length, while
I. of

third

about In the

feet

long. Dynasty XII.,

was

reign of
an

Amonemhat

B.C.

2000,

officer named
procure
was no
a

Antef

sent

to
so

the
rare

quarriesto
that of
"

special kind
hunter who

of knew

stone,
the

there
none

marvel
it."
"

it, and

that

sought
Antef,

it had
"

found

spent eight days," says

searching the

hills

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

45

for be.

it, but
I

knew

not

the

place

wherein

it

might
Mut,
all

prostrated myself
the

before in

Min,

before

before the upon

goddess great
fire." At

magic,

and

before
to

gods
the in

of the

highlands, burning

incense

them the
one

last, after almost

found
sun

giving

up

search

despair, he
as

the

required
the

block dark

morning just
of the

the

had

topped
men

hills

valley,and
centuries
one

while
to

his

were

just

ing scatter-

in all directions
so

renew

the

search.

Although
Antef this

many

have

passed
one

since
reads

found

his

stone,
upon

feels,when rocks,
that the
were

tion inscriphe the

the
may

it

was

but
scene

yesterday ;
when,
as

and says,

one
"

picture
company
was

sunlit
in

the army

festivity and

entire

praising, rejoicing,and kings

of

doing

obeisance."
Under
one

other
up

this

dynasty
down

one

reads,
carried the

as

walks
man

the

of valley, and

works

being

on.

One
ten

quarried
which feet of
were

carried later

to

river seated
of

blocks

converted

into

statues

8j

high.
2000

Another
men

official
he and
to
a

speaks
had

his him

army in
an

which

with
has

this

now

desolate

place ;
"

third

left

inscription reading,
with my Lord work army of the in the

came

these
power

lands highof

safety,by
from

the

Min,
So

Highlands." generation
to

the

continued

46

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

generation, and
noon

the

quarryinen, in of
upon

as

they

sat

at

to

rest

themselves
the
names

the

shade,

could
and

read gotten for-

around

them

dead the

kings

officials carved

rocks, and

could

place their
The

own

names

in of the
;

the

illustrious
rule

company. the the

no

troubled

years

Hyksos
in

checked XVIII.

quarrying
labours
were

somewhat

but

Dynasty
left to

renewed,

though
been the

unfortunately
illuminate
An

have long inscriptions darkness of the

the

history of
of Akhnaton

valley.
is to be

tion inscriphigh
cut

of the
on

time

seen

up

the

rocks, but
I.

other

figureshave
XIX.
the

been

over

it

by Sety
Various

kings
on

of

Dynasties
rocks the
;

and

XX.

are

mentioned

the

but

only important
year of the that in
a

dates inscription of Rameses

a

from
B.C.

second
It

reign
this

IV.,

1165.

seems

king, with quarries.

he
went

degree
He

of energy

unusual
a

Pharaoh
to

of this debased
"

period,made
led the way
the

personal visit place he

;

the
;

to the

desired
cut
an

around

august
mountain

mountain

he

inscription upon
great
seen
on

this
the

engraved

with
to

the be
as

name

of the

king."
of the

This

is inscription
as

rocks

valley,almost
it. On

fresh

when

the he

scribes

had

written
an

his return

to

Egypt
of

organised
the

expedition for
he had

the

purpose A
com-

quarrying

stone

selected.

1.

Inscription
3.

at

Ahu

Kueh.
at

2, 4.

Foreign

inscriptions
at

Abu

Kueh.

Inscription

Abu and

Kueh. marks
at
near

5-12. 13,

Inscriptions
14,

Abu

Kueh.

16.

Inscriptions
35.

Abu

Kueh,

reign

of

Akhnaton.

"

Page
15.
17.

Aramaic Archaic

inscription drawing
Fowakhieh.

at

Abu

Kueh. in
a

and

inscription
"

valley

leading

from

Wady

Page

39

PL.

VII.

tSf^TMfi?/*.
^L

rj:

" S.

tf^s+s
"ftsrU2+
"

*""?

IS

*?l

^i^^"^^"0^

fnSW-flffiSP

-^

^omu

Pl.

vii.

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

47

plete

list of

the
as

personnel
it
of
a

of
one

the
an

expedition
idea of

is

recorded,
usual be

and,

gives
force

the

composition
to

of this
some

kind, I may

permitted
The head of

give
of

it in

detail.
none

the

expedition was
Amon,
and

other

than staff of the

the

High
and
two

Priest
of his the

his immediate
the

consisted
army

king's butlers,
the

deputy
of the

secretary,
of the

overseer

ury, treascourt

directors the

quarry

service, the
lists.
as we

charioteer, and
clerks say,
were

clerk of the army

or

Twenty
would

of the and

army,

of the

War of

Office
the

twenty
to

inspectors
this
were

court
a

stables

attached

group.
20

Under

military
mixed

commandant
5000
men,

there
50

infantry
and

officers and
a

charioteers,

200

sailors,and

body

of 50

scribes,overseers, priests,
Under
a

veterinary
and

inspectors.
master

chief
were

artificer
130

three

quarrymen quarrymen
crown

there
;

stone-cutters
was

and
2000

while
and four

the
800

main

work

done

by
Two for

slaves and

foreign captives.
A

draughtsmen engraving
with which
as

sculptorswere

employed
civil this

the

"c. inscriptions,

magistrate large force,

not 900

50

policekept
the

order

amongst
8362

altogether totalled perished

from

men,

ing, includsouls
or

grimly inscription

states, the

who

fatigue, hunger,

disease,

exposure.

48

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

The

supplies
in and

for

this
carts
were

large expedition
each many kinds of drawn

were

transported
of
oxen

ten

by

six

yoke
with

there and

porters laden
of cakes.

bread,

meat,

various

The which
desert.

then inscription
were
"

tells

us

the

sacrifices
of the

continuously made
were

to

the

gods

There the

brought
of

from

Thebes

the of

oblations
and

for

satisfaction Bulls
were

the

gods
shedeh

heaven
were

earth. incense like of

to
a

slaughtered,calves
to

smitten,
wine
The
was

streamed

heaven,
in

and

flood, beer

flowed

this

place.
pure
so

voice

the
all

ritual-priest presented
the
were

these

offerings
that
their

gods

of

the

mountains

hearts In

glad."
remote

this

desert
in

how

easy

it is to
!

dream

oneself

back close

the
either for

elder side
ever

days
by

The rocks

valley,
around
once

pressed
which

on

the

the with

whispers
the

wander,
;

echoes
in the

again
that

ring of
the

the

chisels

and

wind

almost
one can

ceaselesslyrushes
see

over

the

ancient of the

tracks,
quarry As the
remote
we

flutteringgarments
to

men

as

they
the the

pass

and
our

from
tents

their work. in the cool of

now as

sat

at

door

of

afternoon,
as

present
had of

day

seemed
;

the

past

seemed
sunset
was

before

and,

when

that

great

moment

approached, one
pan

almost

felt it

fittingto

burn

of

incense

to

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

49

the

old

gods
IY.
names

of had

heaven done.

and

earth,

as

the

officers of

Rameses The

of

later

kings, Shabaka,
II.
,

Taharka,

Psametik,
down date
at
one

Nekau,
from

Aahmes

and and the the

others, look
sometimes
names

the

rocks
and

the of the

is

preciselygiven,
mentioned. tuff
of
was

officials are
the green

During

Persian demand

period
for the
so

in

considerable

making
many
museums

those
are

lifelike
to

portrait statuettes
seen

of
;

which and the

be

in

the

various

coarser

tuff,which
for shrines in and

is

practically sarcophagi. valley

Darius
the

breccia, was
It
names

much
to

used
see

is

curious of the

this

distant

Persian
Artaxerxes the rock

kings,Cambyses,
L, written
in

I.,

Xerxes

I., and

Egyptian
with

hieroglyphsin
the
was

inscriptions, together
in which I. and
names

year

of

their

reigns

the

quarrying
370

undertaken.
B.C.

Nectanebo
have

II., B.C.
in the

and and there

350,

left their
and the

valley; tions. inscriplittle

at

dating
are

from various

this

subsequent periods
and

Egyptian

Greek

In

the
was

reign
built
of the

of

Ptolemy III., B.C.

the the Bir

240,

temple
east
over

near

Fowakhieh

the

end

valleyof
of the

quarries. Wandering
the

this
the

amphitheatre
remains

amidst little
D

hills

we

came

upon

building,which

had

50

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

been

constructed

of

rough

stones

augmented
was

by
to
;

well-made
the but

basalt
the

columns.

It of the

dedicated Desert
area

god Min,
as

patron
about could than there
a

Eastern

it

was

only god

12 not

feet

by

22

in

the

priestsof
devotion
Near ruined rocks and
;

the of

have of

commanded the
or

the

more

few

quarrymen. groups of the

the

temple

are

three the

four

huts, nestling on
and

hillsides amongst
of the
as

here
-

the

quarrymen ages There

near

Ptolemaic the
broken of

Grseco

Roman

dwelt,
are

pottery
ancient of modern of the reads the

indicates.

many and
as
a a

traces

gold workings
construction unsuccessful

by,

ruined
sad

house

stands
to

memorial them. -XX.

In
one

attempt

reopen XVIII.

inscriptionsof
of
"

Dynasties
of

the

gold
into this

Koptos," which
from

must

be the

gold brought
;

Koptos
later
A

this
the

hood neighbourappear

and

at

period
very
to

mines

to

have
to

been be

worked.

fine
east

pink granite
of many there

began
in Roman
cut two

quarried just
and
one

the

this well blocks these

days,
the

may

still see
have lain

from

hillside which
years Fowakhieh

thousand In

awaiting transport.
itself
to

Wady
of

there

are

many
never

blocks

tuff, addressed
to

the

Caesars, but

dispatched

them

nor

is there

anything brings

in

this

time -forsaken

valley

which

so

the

past

The

camp

in hills
on

Wadi
the

Fowakhieh,
north side.
the

looking- down
The
"

from
tracks

the
are

camel

seen

along passing-

valley. Page

38.

Wady
Pl.
viii.

Fowakhieh,

looking east.

The

camel

tracks

will be

noticed

again.

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

51

before vanished

one

as

do

these There the

blocks
are

awaiting
many Greek

removal

to

cities. be in
a

tions inscripgether to-

to

seen,
recess

majority being grouped

the
one

amidst
Here

rocks

on

the

south wbo other

side

of the

valley.

reads

of persons and of when

worked emperors

for
;

Tiberius, Nero,
and there boats
was are

Domitian,

their
one,
as

drawings
fresh in
as

men,
an

animals,
hour From
at

and
noon

before whiled

away of the
was

their

making.
dates south the
a

these

the

last

days
up

the

quarrying
on

causeway of the descent have

which

passes which

hillside intended

the
ease

valley, and
of blocks

to

quarried higher up.

on

The

Romans

also left watch-towers

that peace did
not

the

hill- tops, which in the

indicate
desert. The

always reign
in

night
with

which it the

closed
silence

on

us

all too
very

soon

brought
The The
turn

of

the

grave.

wind young all

fell,and
moon

the which
stone

whisperings
lit the
under

almost

ceased.
to

valley
;

seemed and
not

things to
meal

its gaze
or

sound The

fell from

the

camelmen been

from

the and

camels.

evening
we

having
had

eaten

the beds
;

pipes
and lute abso-

smoked,
when

quietly slipped
set

into
the

our

the

moon

behind upon
as

hills and

darkness

had

fallen

the dead

valley, one
and
as

might

have

believed

oneself

deep

52

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

in the

underworld
upon the

as

the

kings
rocks

whose

names

were

inscribed On
the

black

around.
we

following morning
towards
This treated
one

continued Red

our

journey
the

eastwards trade

the

Sea,

along
a

old

route.

expedition by
here and

forms
next

subject which chapter, and

week the when homeward

will

be

itself in the pass may

at
over

therefore the

may

the

occupied by
thread
we

journey,

resume

of
set

the
out

present narrative
from The

the
on

date
our

Wady day
was

Fowakhieh

way.

already hot
the Bir another of

as

we

trotted

down

the

valley and
way,
coursers. we

past put
A

Hamma-

mat,
of

where,

by

the

up

family
hours' rocks

cream-coloured
us

couple

trottingbrought
on

to
now

cluster open the

one

of sandstone

the

north been
Here

of the

and dusk
or

wide
on

road, these
the outward

having
unknown

passed

in

journey.

I found few

two

in inscriptions and graffiti,

to
our a

letters, a

Egyptian
dedicated
we

little Graeco-Roman

shrine rocks
;

the

great

god
and

Min.

On
in

these the

ate

luncheon,

rested
we

shade
once

and

in

the

early
the

noon after-

mounted station
half

more,

passing
later.
us

second

Roman
and about and
a

an

hour

ride of two

half sunset,

hours and

brought
here
we

to

the
to

Hydreuma
a

halted in the

smoke

pipe
we

stretch

our

legs.

Then

moonlight

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

53

rode

on

once

more

over

the

open
as

desert, which
far
was as

stretched could about

see.

in

hazy
The

uncertainty
of

the

eye
at

oasis

Lageta
the the

reached

seven

o'clock,and,

night having
camp fires

turned

cold, we

were

glad
the

to

find
the road

already
sunrise,
twelve
closure en-

brightly burning
We
were
on

and

kettle

merrily boiling.
soon

again

after
ten
or

and, riding towards

miles

Koptos,
we

about

from
now

Lagdta
almost

passed
of the

another

Roman Our

entirelydestroyed.
hills of
seen on

route

now

lay

to

the

north
we

el Gorn,
our

the

south

side of which
;

had and the

trees
as

outward

journey
we

and

after

three
of

half

hours'
Nile in the

riding valley. mirage

of

came

into
line

sight
of green

distant
seemed

The
to

thin be

swimming
this view the

in water,
were

though again.
of the

the
At

period
the
are

the

inundation

upon

us

point
some

where
low
one

is first obtained south is

a

there

hills
of

on

side

tracks, and

in

these

there is been

small with
for

red-ochre

quarry. and of the taining ob-

The quarry

sandstone had this

veined

ochre,
purpose

opened

the

material
the
or

for the red

making

of red
on

paint ;
rocks

but
are

whether ancient
ate
over an

few

markings
one

the say.

mediaeval

cannot

Here
we

we

early luncheon,
sun-bathed

and

about
to

noon

rode

on

the

plain down

the

cultiva-

54

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

tion. the

Leaving
fields towards
the the site

the

desert the

our

road and

passed
two

between
we

Nile

by

o'clock

reached marks the

once

picturesque
of in

village

of

Quft,
We ruins

which

the

ancient

Koptos.
over

spent
of the
we

afternoon famous the

wandering
and

the in the

caravanserai,
back
to

evening

took

train
are

Luxor. of is

Such is the
one

the
to

quarries
It

Hammamat,
a

and

such and

road
to

them.

simple journey,
any order
a

able will

be

undertaken the There

by
to
come

active
a

person

who from will the

take

trouble
will

few when

camels
one

Keneh.

time

travel

to

the

quarries by automobile,
is hard-surfaced and

for
to

even

present
form

road

enough
with
a

permit

of that

of locomotion,
not

ing little doctorA

it will be
as

far from

perfection.
its

place
and

such

this

wonderful
seems

valley,with
beckon
to

whispers
to

its
if

echoes,

to

the

curious

come,

only
and To

to

be

lost

for the

awhile

in the

soothing
of

solitudes
the

moved those
out
so

by

majestic beauty
in the

hills.
rocks
to

interested
an

olden
one

days
is

the

hold
find for for
an

invitation

which
to ;

surprised
one

seldom
hour hour the

responded
fine

but

let any

feel
see

freedom
of be

of

the the

desert, and

an

the
will
not

fantasy again

hills, and

that

invitation

so

lightly set

aside.

Abandoned

sarcophagus

on

the

hillside

in

Wady

Fowakhieh.

"

Page

38.

'

/ft

if

"m

:
A

typical valley

near

Wady

Fowakhieh

Pl.

ix.

To

the

Quarries

of

Wady

Hammamat.

55

On

camel
the

or

automobile
tracks there the of he
to

he the

will dark

make

his

way of the

over

ancient
and

valley
entranced,

quarries
as

will of

remain
life

just
back
to

we,

until

business

calls

him

the

habitations

present-day

men.

III.

THE

RED

SEA

HIGHROAD.

In

the

reach miles

of

the

Nile

between the

Quft
river
not

and

Keneh,
its
than
at

few

below
to

Luxor,
the
Red

makes

nearest
110

approach
miles
of desert From

Sea,
the

more

separating
Quft, seaport
ancient
who the

two

waters

this

point.
the

ancient

Koptos,
runs

to

Kossair, great

little
of

town,

there

the the in the this which in the

highroad

days,
were

along engaged

which

Egyptians
Eastern
route

travelled trade.
It

happened
the

by

chance

that in

led
famous

through

Wady
were

FowTakhieh

the

quarries
I have in
1907.

situated

and

last
to

chapter
that with
from

recorded
From for

an

expedition
the

made
I
set

place
my

quarries
sea

out route

three the Nile

friends
to

the

and,

as

the
ready al-

Wady
now

Fowakhieh remains
to

has record

been continuation The

described,
eastwards
of

it

its it.

and

our

journeying
is be the of

upon

history
for

this
be

highroad
said
to

considerable
most

interest,

it

ancient

may

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

57

of

the
;

routes

of

which

the

past has
has been

left
beaten

us

any down the

record

and fall

its hard of

surface
almost

by
dawn been

the

feet

continuously from
the
a

of human

things to
some

present day.

It has of the
came

thought by
Egypt

that of road. the

large element
Nile Excavations

prehistoricinhabitants
into

the

valley
at

by
have

this
shown
not

Quft
from

(Koptos) Dynasty
statues

city
the

to

date

I., if
of

earlier; and

great
one

archaic of which

Min,
at

the the

god
The home

of the

desert,

is to
were

be

seen

Ashmolean ancient
of their

Museum,

Oxford,

here

found.

Egyptians always
ancestors
was

believed
the since land
so

that

the

in and
at

of Pount, many the

the

region around
remains
of
a

Suakin
been

archaic terminus

have which persons that

found

Koptos,
times
was

route

in historical
to travelling

sometimes it
seems

used
not

by

Pount,
certain
of

unlikely
These Arabians

there

was

infiltration
and

of Pountites

into

Egypt by

way

Kossair

Quft.
coast,
Red and trade
on

people travellingin sailingfrom

Bed may the win the

ships along
eastern

the

shores from

of the

Sea,

or

journeying
have

by
over

land

Sinai
to
;

Suez,
with

passed
of
no

this

road

inhabitants
is

Upper Egypt
evidence
or

but,

the
any The

other

hand, there

to

show took

that

extensive
coast

immigration
Red Sea

invasion

place.

of the

58

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

is

utterlybarren,
one

and

the

wells

are

few the

in number

and

could
of

more

readilyimagine
they encountered
the

prehistoric
on

inhabitants

Egypt pushing

eastwards the
one

hunting
sea,

expeditions
thus these

until up

and

opening
Eastern
base
to

route,

than

could
an

picture
able unten-

peoples penetrating from

a

hostile

country

at

the

dawn

of

known

days.
the

Upon
Koptos
on

archaic
are

statues

of

the

god

Min

at

there
stone
saws

many

rude These
a

drawings
represent

scratched

the

surface.

pteroceras
the

shells,the
of
an

of sawfish,

stag'shead,
a

part forean

elephant, a
a

hyaena,

young

bull,
that upon of
ing mean-

ostrich, and

flyingbird.
not

It is evident been scratched

some

these the

drawings
statue

would

have

of the

tribal

god
to

without and

sort
seems

being
that
one

attached may
see

them,
them of

it

probable
of
merce com-

in

the

articles

which
the Red

the
:

people

Koptos

imported from
and

Sea

shells, horn,

ivory, feathers,
of

skins.
The

earliest dates

written
from

record

journey
2020,
when

to

Kossair
an

Dynasty
Henu
to to

XL,

B.C.

official named
and

travelled
Pount.
"

from The

Koptos king
to

to

Kossair,
me,"
to

thence
"

sent

says

Henu,
him the

dispatch myrrh

ship
the

Pount

bring for

fresh

from

chieftains

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

59

of

the

desert of the forth

which fear from

had

been in those upon

offered

to

him

by
Then

reason

of him

countries.
the road
as

went

Koptos
me.

his way

Majesty commanded
before and
were

Troops
those

cleared
to

the the

me,

overthrowing
hunters
as

hostile of
my

king;
desert
. . .

the

and the the

the

children
of

the

posted
I reached I

protection
Red

limbs.
this I

Then and made

Sea, and

I built

ship,
had and for

dispatched
for it
a

it with

everything, after
of carried the the

great oblation
no

cattle, bulls,
material

ibexes."

Henu,

doubt,
across

building the
down
sent
on

vessel
coast

desert, and it, his

settled

the him
us

to

build
as

suppliesbeing
as

to

from

Koptos
part
in

often the

necessary.

He

tells

in another wells

of

that inscription
;

he

dug

several
his

the

desert

and

one

can

imagine
beside vessel
After
one

little company wells

near

living quite happily

the seashore the while the

of these hammered

was

together on
thousands
:

beach
one

below.
may of the of

the

lapse

of four
scenes

of years

still

picture
the

these
blue

the when
to

launching
the
savour

ship into
burnt
shouts

waters,
up

-offeringsstreamed
of
;

heaven,
across

and

the

the

workmen

rang

the barren

sandy
coast,

beach

the the

tedious

journey along
hills upon upon one's one's

the

always
the

yellow
sea

right and
;

always
on

boundless

left

the

landing

60

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

the

strange
trees
as

shores

of

Pount,
grew

where and

the there
;

precious
was

myrrhof

abundantly
of
a

talk

gold

thing
and

of

little worth fat

from
women

where
sat

sleek,
at

bearded
doors

men

amazingly
huts raised

the

of bee-hive and

the
one

ground

upon
meet

piles;
with

where, walking abroad,

other
not

might

giraffesand
would An been

surprising creatures
credited feels

whose friends
at

existence
home. have

be

by
that

one's
it would years

Englishman
worth
the
to

almost of sequent sub-

four have

thousand
seen

oblivion
saw

what

these

urers advent-

During
seems

the have
no

next

twenty
in almost

centuries continual

the
use,

road
but

to
are

been

there

interesting inscriptions recording

made of
to

expeditions
sure

along it, though

the the
to

one

may

be

that this

many
route
seems

trading expeditions passed

land have of Pount. The Thaau
town at
name

over

of

Kossair

been

called

this
has in

period, but developed

in

Grseco-Roman
Tuau
or

days
a

this

into

Duau,
three

word
stars.

written

hieroglyphs simply
with the Arabia and the

with India

The

trade

which

flourished
the

during
into

rule

of

Ptolemies
and
as

brought
Kossair any in

road
as

very
a

general trading

use, town

became

important

Egypt.

The

ROCK

INSCRIPTIONS

AT

WADY

FOWAKHIEH

AND

KOSSAIR.

i,

2.

Inscriptions Kingdom

near

the

archaic

inscription
Fowakhieh.

on

Plate

vii.

3.

Old

inscription, giving
39.
name

Wady
of

4.

Inscription
Page

King

Unas,

Wady

Fowakhieh.
"

5.

6,

7.

Drawings
Page
5
1
.

of

the

Greek

period

in

Wady

Fowakhieh.
"

8.

Archaic

drawing, inscriptions
Fowakhieh.
"

Wady
on

Fowakhieh.

9.

Greek

blocks

of

quarried

stone,

Wady

Page

50.

10.

11,

12.

Old

Kingdom
of

inscriptions
Thothmes

at

Wady
at

Fowakhieh.

13.

Misspelt Inscription
16,
17,

inscription
of Rameses

III.

Wady

Fowakhieh.

14.

IV.,
on

Wady Temple

Fowakhieh.
"

Page

46.

15.

18.

Inscriptions

at

Wady

Fowakhieh.
"

Page
19.

49.

Archaic

drawing blue-glazed
86.

near

Bir

el

Ingliz.
"

Page
ruins

70.

20.

Typical Page

bowl

found

on

of

Old

Kossair.
"

21-24.

Fragments

of

Temple

at

Kossair.
"

Page

81.

PL.

x.

"am

CTV

"

POC nAC^KAIC^

enkcpKMCAPoc
fP^"2tllB?

t^--^tl1t1
10
on

PI

M
12
13

If
g^Hr?
23 24

Pl.

x.

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

61

harbour,
and
town

however,
was

was

so

poor
some

that five

new

port
to to

constructed
a

miles

the be

north, where

natural
a

bay

was

easily able
This
of the
new

improved
was

into

very

fair harbour. in honour

town

named

Philoteras,

sister
the

of

Ptolemy
port
was

Philadelphos (b.c. 285),

now

while

older

known

as

Aennum

by
towns to

foreigners,
were

though
Duau. of
one a

to

the
was

Egyptians
fortunate

both

called
blocks and
on

enough
at
name

find

some

Ptolemaic
of them
was

temple
the

the

older

Kossair,
followed written

Duau,
a

by
twice Not

the
to

hieroglyph representing
indicate the
one

town

existence
finds this
at

of

the

two

ports.
elsewhere
to

frequent inshort

Koptos

and

inscriptions of
made
over

period relating
to

journeys
thence

along
the

this

route
seas.

Kossair,

and may

high
:

One
most

example

here
for

be
a

quoted
fair

"To

the for

high goddess Isis, ship Serapis,

Hermaeus

voyage this." be tariff

the

dedicates
I must

permitted
of
taxes

to

give
on

in full

very

esting interthe
was

imposed
Roman

persons

using
which

road
found
at

during
in
a

the

occupation,
just

ruined

guard-house
of the

behind

Koptos,
reads
as

the
:
"

beginning

highway.

It

follows

62

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

By

Order the
to

of

the

Governor the

of

Egypt. service
are

"

The

dues

which

lessees the

of

transport

in

Koptos, subject
to

Arabian

command,
scale,
are

authorised
on

levy by
at

the

customary
of

inscribed

this

tablet of

the Eed

instance Sea

L. Antistius

Asiaticus, Prefect

the

slope.
Sea helmsman
.

For
"

Eed
"

bowsman
.

an
"

able

seaman

a
"

shipyard
skilled
woman

hand
.
.

a
"

artisan for

a
"

prostitution
.

"

"

immigrant
of
a

a
"

wife camel

soldier

a
"

ticket said ticket

.

"

sealing of
each ticket
a

for the
caravan

"

husband, if mounted,
is

when
"

leaving
rate

all his women,

a

at

the

of

"

donkey
waggon

....

a
"

with

tilt
.
.

a
"

ship's mast

yard
The ninth year
on

of the 15th

Emperor
of the

Csesar

Domitian of

Augustus

Germanicus

the

month

May.
seen

In persons
were

the
or

above

tariff
on

it will
which

be
taxes

that
were

the

articles
as one

levied

such

might
and the

expect
sea

to

have

passed
those

between

the

Nile

and call

only
for

items

concerning women

seem

to

explana-

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

63

tion.
must

The

very

large tax
that

imposed
or

upon Arabian

prostitutes
females
and

indicate into

Indian

coming
to

Egypt
them

along
the when

this of
were

route,
the of

liable

bring with
be admitted

evils

East, could
the

only
and,
women

they
and in

richest Such

consequently, best
were

highest
the

class.

always
regard
a

taxed
rather of

Roman

Empire,
told of

and in That when his

in this

humorous

story is

Philostratus'

Life
was

Apollonius by
the him
"
"

Tyana.

holy
about
wares.

man

accosted the

tax-collector
was

to

cross

Euphrates,
with

and

asked

He that he kai and

replied
had

somewhat

banal
kai

remark

with

Soj^hrosune

Dikaiosiine

'Andreia

Temperance,
official
at

eousness, Rightonce

Courage."
as

The
"

assessed would the

these have

Doittas,
them
as

Female

slaves,"

and
not

taxed

prostitutes,had
him

prophet hastilycorrected
were

by saying
soldiers" Mommsen
of the

that

they
of the

not

Doiilas The tariff that

but

Despoinas,
of that rule

"Ladies
tioned men-

House"!
in the

"wives
shows the than it
was

was

right
was

in

stating
in of

emperors for

laxer
time

Egypt
Severus
contract
;

elsewhere,
not

before
for
on

the

possible
while

legionariesto
active
so

legal marriages Egypt

the the

service

but

in

marriages
could be

were

far

recognised

that

wives

taxed

64

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

as

such,

and

the

children

could

be

enrolled

as

legionaries.
During
was

mediaeval used removed farther

to

times

this but

Bed

Sea

highroad
terminus
a

much
now

by traders,
from

its river
to

was

Koptos

Kus,
soon

town

few

miles

up-stream, which
Cairo
in size
some

became A

second

only

and

wealth. Chinese

pottery figure of Buddha,

vases,

mediaeval

and

few
are

Arabian records later

a

found antiquities, of the the

use

in

Upper
at

Egypt,
time.
to

of

this

route

that

In

days
there Red base

terminus
to

again
north Arabian of

shifted

Keneh,
to

few

miles

the
come

Koptos,
traders sometimes
Mecca. From

and
from

that
across

town

still

the
as

Sea,
of

and

pilgrims
to

use

it

the

the

journey

Wady highroad

Fowakhleh
at

our

party
a.m.
on

set
a

out

along
the

this

about

bracing

morning
road shut in

in November. off hills

on

From

Bir

Fowakhieh
a

branched

to

the

right along
in of

fine
and for

valley,
colour.
some

by

fantastic side groups

traces

shape
the

Clustering
distance hillsides

either
were

path
and

there
there

of

huts,
mines
was

in

the

were

of

gold
one

long

since

abandoned.
and

The in

road

beneath
as

hard, flat,

blue-grey
had

colour,
down

though
masses

some

mighty
and

torrent

brought

of

gravel

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

65

had

laid

it level
it

over

the

bottom and
as

of the

the

valley.

Gradually
in of
were
on

sloped upwards,
side road
one

hills drew

either whole

felt that
soon

the be the
a

highest point
reached. We the

the

was

to

already half-way
and
so

between been be and the

Nile

and

sea,

far

there
as

had
to

continuous

slope
tween be-

upwards,
The

so

gradual
dark

almost
turned

imperceptible. narrowly
bed became
had

valley now
the and

twisted

hills,and
up
narrow

gravel
the

humped
raced

banked
some

where gauge

earlywaters
and had

down

churned

themselves
bed
we

through
The the

natural
wind

basin
beat in

into
our

the

wide
as

beyond.
trotted
not
two

cold

faces
the
a

up

narrowing valley,and
power the

sun

had
of

yet gained much

hours,
we

when,

after pass

ride

reached
of the

rugged

which

forms

the

apex

route.

The
as

scenery

here

is

superb.
into
the the

The
a

pathway,
cluster
of

such

it is, threads boulders

the

its way tumbled

through

great

grey

few

yards' width
that up
on

between
one

rocks from pass,

of

hillside, so
to stone

foot whole

may of

jump
the

stone

the
one

length
twist

and

on

camelback
until

has

to

and
come

turn, rise and

near

descend,

the

saddlerocks may the

straps
there have

to

bursting.
as

Amidst
es

the

is been

well, known

Bir

Sid, which

opened

in ancient
E

times, perhaps by

66

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

redoubtable
near

Henu.

A far of
a

few
away

natives
their

were

encamped
were

by,

and

not

goats

to

be

seen

in the

charge
the of

small

whose girl,
one's

dark
eye

dress
amidst of

fluttering in
the

wind
rocks

caught
and
the

pale

grey

cold

blue

the

shadows.

Riding
open

on

for

another
which
an

two

hours

we

reached

an

ridge from
and the

extraordinaryprospect humps
there Roman
was was

of

hills rolling
On

innumerable

obtained.
a

left of the stood

of

pathway
a

hill at

the

top of which
one

ruined

watch-tower,
crowned
the hill
at

of

chain

such

posts which
the
route.

higher peaks
we

all
on

along

Up
the

this
tower to

scrambled

foot, and
a

climbed

the

summit,
of

burning

pipeful of
The

tobacco
array
as

the

gods
around
as

Contentment
us,
as

thereon. and

of

hills

closely packed
of hue
were a

yet
of

individual of

the

heads

vast

crowd
the

people, were light.

to

wonderful the north

in
a

morning
grey, and
those while

Those
east

to
were

dead

those
to

the the

pink
shade

and
of
were

mauve,

south

every

rich of

brown,
the

the

shadows The wind

throughout
tore

deepest

blue.
the

past
our

us

as

we

sat

contemplating
ravens

fair world

at

feet, and
stock
of
us.

two

black
Far

sailed
the in

by

on

it to its the

take
way

below
;

path
the

wound

through

the

humps

and

distance

Bir

es

Sid, the

well

at

the

highest point of

the

Red

Sea

highroad." Page 65.

T^m"teK
*7".

11^
The Roman fortress of Abu

Zerah,

looking

south-east.

"

Page

67.

Pl.

xi.

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

67

peaks
it from

and

spires of

the

darker
scene,

rocks and

into hid

which the
sea

penetrated bounded
view. the

the

Mounting
down the

camels
and

once

more

we

denied
were

steep path,
hills. We
;

for

time hour

lost
in for

amidst
more

the
open

lunched and

an

later

country
over

riding
we

on

afterwards
the the

somewhat station
the usual foot of

two

hours

reached lies in

B,oman

Abu of
a

Zerah,
range of

which fine

plain
As of
some

at

purple
station wall

hills. consists still

is
a

in these

the buildings, the in

rectangular enclosure,
twelve the
upon

being
The of

feet

in

height
are

parts.
made

door-posts of
and

main
one

entrance

sandstone,

of them
SER

is the
. . .

almost
INY.

obliterated
There
. . .

Latin
are

: inscription

several the
Just which

rooms

inside
space north

the

enclosure, built
left open
are
a

against
middle.
around date

wall,
to

being
there

in

the

the
some

few

graves,

broken

pottery

of

Roman

lies

scattered.
A

ride

of

less

than

an

hour
as

brought
Hosh el

us

to

another
"

Roman

station

known where
to
we

Homra,
for
was
a

the

Red
or

Enclosure,"
so

only

halted there the

moment
no

in order

ascertain

that In

unique feature

in this
was

building.
of great

noon after-

light the

scene

beauty.

Range

68

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

upon
a

range

of

hills surrounded colours the

:

us,

which
rose,

assumed

thousand

varying

pink,

purple, Spires
of

blue, and
rock shot

olive-greenin
up
to
a

foreground.
in which

soft and upon

sky

floated
seven

the

already
ravens

visible

moon,

overhead the

black
the group
sun

soared

past

wind.
the

Soon of
a

went

down, rocks,

and, resting in
we

lee

of

dark go
come

watched for

the

pageant

of

colours
to

by

and

waited

the

baggage

camels

up. The

journey
and
we

was

resumed
a

at

an

early hour
Roman

next

morning,
of of the
an

after

trot

of about well
and

three-quarters
station within

hour

reached The

the

Hagi

Suliman.

ancient been

well, lying
restored in wall

enclosing wall, has

upon
a

modern

times, and
written:
At the

tablet

let into the

and

is

rudely
1832.
"

"Briggs, Hancock, point

Bir the road is

"Wood,
another
our

this

joined by
we

from
return

north-west,
to

along which
Fowakhieh
From
route
was

made of

journey
and Bir

by

way

Wady

el Esh
to

Wady
Fowakhieh The

Adolla.

Bir is
a

Hagi
trot

Suliman of about and

to
now

by this

six the the

hours. wind bone. around

morning
up the led tracks
corners

bitterly cold,
one

swinging
The

valley chilled
now

this way the of

and

that,
one

sharp
across

where

wind

buffeted

suddenly,

patches

sunlight where

there

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

69

was

some

hope valleys

of

warmth,
one

and

then
see

again
an

up

shaded

where

might
A

sional occa-

wagtail
out

or

sand-martin cold
us

puffing its
trot

feathers
and
a

against
hours El

the

airs.
to

of

two

half

brought
Litemah.

yet another
there
an

Roman
as

ruin,
an

called

Here

is

usual

enclosingwall surrounding
chambers
of
some
are

area

in which

several
posts doorand of
we

built
entrance

and
are

well
made

is

dug.
of

The

the

sandstone,
upon
ages.
one

Cufic

are inscriptions

written
middle of and

these entered from

by travellers
the the

in

the number ruins

As

building a
of the

sand-grouse rose
went

midst

off to
some

the time

north, their swift

being flight
of
to

visible

for

against a background
told of
a our

pale limestone
the
sea.

which hills, here

we

approach
party
of

Near
some

passed
camels
set
us

Arabian

traders,
A
more

riding

and
men

others
I have

walking.
seldom
seen,
one

evil-looking
as

of and

and

they eyed
some

whispered together
was

felt that
not

chief mis-

afoot. when had

at
we

It

was

therefore
to

surprising
Nile that
a

to

learn

returned attacked
that
to

the with

caravan

been about

considerable
and

bloodshed Arabians
An hour

place

time,

by
the

answering
and
an

this

description.
we

quarter
open

later
in

emerged
the

from

hills into

plain

which

well

known

70

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

as

Bir

el

Ingliz is
at

situated. the

This

well of the

was

dug by

English troops
century,

beginning

nineteenth

during
which Ababdeh
to
a

operations against
further natives
were

Napoleon's
be made. and

generals, of
A few

mention
here
our

will

encamped,

hastened

draw

water
a

for

thirsty camels,
for the the

begging
In

cigarette as
of
some

reward
to seat

labour.
we

the

shade of
our

rocks The

south-east

partook
for hunter face of

luncheon.
to

which

I selected

myself proved
some

be

that

chosen ago, is

by

prehistoric
upon the

sixty
rock
a
man

centuries

for
a

the of of

beside

it there
a

rude

archaic French
names
"

drawing
soldiers Forcard
of
a

holding
have
"

bow.

Two their
as

1799

here

written remain

and
page

Materon of

which little

memorials
at

history

remembered

the

present
In the

time. afternoon
we

trotted

over

open the

desert
space of

and
an

through shady valleys for

hour,
as

about
reached in hand fair
a

at

the Bir

end

of which

we

the

spring wady, pink

known

Ambagi,
cliffs ahead.
reeds A
on

situated
either

fine
and

with

grey-green hills

limestone
grew of the
across

In

this

setting there
amidst

the

greenest
water.

and few

rushes Ababdeh
as

pools

bluest
the
not
a

goats grazed

valley,bleating merrily
few birds added their

they
notes

went to

and

the

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

71

happy fluting of
over-seas,
"

the
to

wind, which, blowing

set

from
to

seemed
of

the tales

rushes of

nodding
Cashmere."
a

songs

Araby

and

old
down

Leaving
dull

this

valley we sloping
There the

travelled
towards the show

rather
at

wash-out

sea,
us
a

which

to length opened sufficiently

glimpse
which of

of

the

blue

water. to
an

is

always something
one's first view
;

penetrates
sea

heart
of

in

the the

after

interval accustomed old wonder attacked

months

and
to
one

now,

eyes

having

themselves
came

the

barren
new

desert, the
weapons,

upon

with with

and One

the

senses

new

vigour.

might
it ; and

have

shouted

for

the

sheer of

pleasure of
green
sun,

when,

presently, a
lit sand

group afternoon
sea,

palms passed
and

into view the

by
and

the

stood

between
power

the

one

felt to the
As
on

full the hills

of the
on

assault. side
we

the the

fell back

either and

passed
camels
last
a

to

wide,
the

flat beach
sea,

headed

our

towards

blue
from

dismounting ripplingwater.
waves

at

hundred
for the

yards
slow silence

the of the the the

Except
was
an

pulse
over

there

unbroken
sand which

world. of

Southwards
the of

the

stretched
rose

to

foot

hills, beyond
the

the
;

dreamy

peaks
the

Tourquoise
of Kossair

Mountains

northwards in the

little town
to

lay basking

sunlight;

the

west

the

dark

72

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

hills

through
the

which

we

had the
sea

passed

stood
;

waiting
and
to

breathlesslyto
the
east

surround

setting sun
seemed Had of

wonderful

quietly to
one

be

sleeping and against

eaters

sighing in
the

its

sleep.
forms

bled stum-

slumbering
one

the have that

lotosfelt
one

themselves
for land
"

would

hardly
suppose

surprise ;
was

here where

one

might
it
was

in
"

always afternoon,"
seemed the the same." and

land In

where

all

things always
or

the

little
of

bay,
a

high

dry
"

upon

sand,
hulks

lay
with could
one

vessels

bygone

age

two-masted Beside
them and
a

high ponderous just

awakened
discern them have
two

sterns.
men

one

fast seemed
found
men

asleep ;

had

there been
as

hardly
to

doubt
mild-

that

they
and

would

be

as

eyed
poem.

melancholy

the

of

Tennyson's
the
the the

Presently, as
sun

we

sat

listeningto
of
a

sea,

set, and
a

from called
to

the
to

minaret the

mosque

in

town

boy
the had

sleepy
His

Faithful

their

daily
us
on

summons

prayer.
was

voice

driftingto
sound but of the

quiet
risen
away of

air
from

the

first

human
;

which had and

of

the the

little town
distant

hardly
voices,
arrival

it died the
our

before

sound
us

grunts

camels,
A few
us,

warned

of

baggage.
town to

figuressauntered
as

idly out pitched

of the

watch

the

tents

were

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

73

on

the

beach
as

; and

thus
to

the the

dream

was

broken, and
that
once

we

awoke,
a

it were,

knowledge
had been

more

human
to to

habitation
be

reached

and

officials had
A the
note
town

interviewed. Maltese
that

the

Mudir

or

governor

of
our

brought

gentleman
almost
to

speedily to
tears
an

tents,
the
utter

obviously pleased
opportunity
boredom lotos
-

to

have the

of

relieving

for The

hour Mudir

of

his existence.

is

an

enforced

eater.

Corpulent
of
a

of

figure, and
than
no

suffering the
no practically

discomforts duties
to

wall-eye ; having
other those pean Euro-

perform
;

of the

brief
to

official routine
to

and

having
his little

talk

except his wife,

mechanic,
but
to

daughter,
left
a

and for

an

Austrian
to

there of

is
the

nothing
time
him when
to
a

him

do

dream shall of
us

benevolent isolated
the
as

government post.
The of four
our

transfer will

less

not

soon

forget
duck,
in

ample figure
he
sat

guest, clad
of
us
our

in white

upon

the

edge
told tell

one

real chair

the how this

and candle-light,

in

disused
a

English
life in
late desoas

little there

is to

regarding
was never

man's
a

sleepy town.
smile than the

There

more

that ennui

which
of

wreathed
a

his face
braver

he

spoke
than

of that

life, nor
his

twinkle
as

which
of his

glinted in
misfortunes

single eye
him

the and

humour

touched

74

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

though
situation Kossair
"

we

should
for
none

meet
are

again
not
cease

in many left
to
over

merrier

"

officials of
us

long

at
complaining un-

will of

picture this
as,

servant

the

government

with

unsmoked he

cigaretteand
us

untasted the

whisky-and-soda,
of four years

told

that

evening
he

meaning

of exile.

Kossair,
was a

when

first

entered
;

upon

his duties,
persons

town
so

of 1500

inhabitants
and

but
so

these

were

miserably poor,
their about
a own

found the

little to do,
ported trans-

that

at

request
thousand

government
to

of them the

Suez
not
are

and grow

the
and
500

neighbourhood,
a man

where

lotos does
Now

has
in

to

keep
town,

awake.
300

there
are

but

souls

the

of

whom very

women

and

children.
is much
are a

These

people wed
look
can

young,

and

there

family intermarriage; but, though

poor

they

lot
which who

to

at, there
be in law in traced

is little mental
to

degeneracy
The

this
of the

cause.

Mudir,
is

is also

charge
and

guards, coast;

responsiblefor Syrian
looks
;
a

order of

in Kossair the ment governAustrian the distilling

there

is

doctor

charge

dispensary ;
mechanic
salt
water

the

above-mentioned
the

after

engine

for

coastguard
;
a

officer and
are

three

men

patrol the
to

coast
;

four

or

five sailors schoolmaster

attached
the

the

port

and

native

teaches

T3

MD

0)

be 43

iu
W

=^

"9

Pl.

xii.

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

75

children

to

read in Arab

and the
or

write
town.

this
The

constitutes

the
are

official element all either of

inhabitants

Ababdeh

stock, Egyptians
live

being entirelywanting.
and
a

They
;

mainly
the

on

fish lation popuwere

little
was

imported
some

bread

but

before

reduced

of the
straw

poorer

families other

actuallyeating chopped only

the for

and

food

fit

animals. is very little to be done

There

here,

and

most

of
A

inhabitants

sleep for
of

two-thirds

of the

day.

fast-diminishingtrade building or mending

with from
where money then
to

necessitates
a

the

occasional
is done
across

boat. which
over

This
are

trade

camels
Arabia

and and
are are

goats,
led
at

brought
to the

the

desert
or

Nile,
the is

they
carried
from

sold

Keneh
on

elsewhere,

being partly expended

back
Mecca
to

grain, which
the way

Arabia.
use

Pilgrims on
vessels
be

and the

these

occasionally,
bothered
to

but

mariners the

of Kossair

cannot

extend

tariff.
for
one

Except

small

group

of

palms
in
to

there

is

absolutelyno
and

vegetation whatsoever
even
an

the

bourhood, neigha

attempt
the

grow

few

bushes

or

flowers

near

governor's quarters,
for
some

though carefully persistedin

an

time, proved
Mudir
governis

utter

failure.

For
on

his
the

supplies the
arrival
of

entirelydependent

the

76

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

merit

steamer at

every the time

second of
our

month

and

if,as

had
was

happened
late, the

this visit, becomes

steamer

unfortunate from

gentleman
sheer
or

tively compara-

thin

starvation.

Except
no

for
men

occasional
ever

travellers Kossair
;

prospectors
if there

white is cholera
sent to

visit
an

though

at

Mecca

English
disease

doctor

is sometimes

vent prethis
veyed con-

the
route.

from and

passing into Egypt along telegrams are

every express week rider

Letters
across

the
an

desert
answer

by
to
a

an

to

Keneh,

and
in

telegram might

be

expected
A
or

about
water

week.
set distillery,

large seabut worked is

up
town

some

twelve with that

pure

fourteen

years
so

ago, few
a

provides
the

the

water;

are

inhabitants
This the

it is
of

only
water

twice

month.

good supply
lack four

largelyresponsible for During

have children
years
two

of sickness years
ten

in

the

town.

the

last
of

only
were

twenty
very

persons young these of

died, and
and
ten

these

very

old

people. only
has

During
consisted
been
no

the

serious
of

illnesses have
there
or

cases

diphtheria:
live
be

cholera, enteric, dysentery,

the the

plague.

Many
and in

of

inhabitants
town
we

to

centenarians,

saw

several
as

tottering old
the

Methuselahs,
the

who had

looked

though

gods

of

underworld

forgotten them

utterly.

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

77

Of in. he

sports there
There is
no

are

none

for the he

Mudir

to

indulge
even

shooting ;
of the

cannot

bathe
;

if
no

desired
to

to, because
sail in
to

the
names

sharks
;

there
cannot

are

boats his

worthy
camel

he

leave

post
even

make

ties, localitripsto interesting

if that
one

amused

him,

which of

it does

not

and the

the

pastime, the
reefs, bores
him

catching
to

crayfish on
The
not

coral is
a

distraction.
it does

climate form

so

monotonously perfect that

of

topic even
in
summer

thought

in winter and

it is mild
It is few

and
never

sunny, very in Mudir the

it is mild very
a

sunnier.
for is the

cold

nor

hot, except
hot
east

days
The

summer

when that of he

wind

blowing.
nor

says
amount

he his
wears

neither

increases

creases deyear his

clothing the
his

whole

round,

but white

always
-

underclothes,
white
-

tight
fez.

duck

tunic, his

loose

duck

trousers,
or

his elastic-sided

boots, and

his red

tarbush

After
the

breakfast
to

next

morning
stand

we

walked

along
ment governof land

beach

the

stiff,mustardon

coloured
a

buildings,which projecting somewhat

span

point
A

into

the

sea.

spick-andor

pier and

quay,

ornamented and
some

with
neat

three

four

old French

cannon

piles of
we

cannon-

balls,

gave

us

the

impression
to
a

that
-

had

been

transported suddenly

second

rate

English

78

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

watering-place; impression was

the sunny
at

but

passing into

the
at

building

that

happily removed
we

once.

Through
the

courtyard
intervals their
we

went,

and

up

stair,
who

saluted
had and
our

by the
best

coastguardsmen,
for into the the

donned
at

uniforms ushered

occasion,
of

last

were

presence
at
room.

Maltese
at

friend, now
far

seated
of the
summer
a

in state

his office
The

table
windows

the

end

large airy
drifted the

overlooked of
an

gloriousblue

sea,

and

the

breath

English
it the
more

into the

room,

bringing with
could
and have been

sigh of
but
was

waves.

Nothing
the
Mudir

entrancing than
scene, to

soft air it
was

the

sun-bathed and
his

the

anathema,
the

back

resolutelyturned
conversation

to

windows.
After

coffee
to
see

and the

brief

we

were

taken
town
were

water

of distillery,
;

which
thence the

the
we

is

immensely
to

proud

and

from of
seen

conducted

the

chief mosque
has

place,a days.
who,
which

picturesqueold buildingwhich
We
were

better

readily admitted
turned up the

by
grass
so

the

Reader,

however,
covered
our

matting
Mudir in

the

floor in
not

order,
be

the

said, that

feet

might
that
A the

dirtied
a

by it, but
Christian

reality
not

in order

footstep of
men were

should

defile it.
one

few

praying languidly
in the

at

side of the

and building,

opposite corner

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

79

man

lay snoring
of

upon the lanes

a

his

back.

There

was

the
to

silence the

sleep

upon

place, and, returning

between
the houses the few

almost there of the

deserted
was

side, out-

hardly
around had

sound the
two

to

disturb
a

ness still-

morning.

In the

bazaar
or

people
at

were

gathered
business

three
A

shops,

which

nigh
to

ceased.
sell if I
a

limp-limbed
silver

jewellerwas
to
a

attempting
watched
from the

rough
not

ring
a

yawning youth, and, girlwho

interest
to

am

mistaken,
with of the Soon where
a

young mild
was

the

transaction

very road
we

opposite
the of the their

side

be the

the open

recipient of
door chanted and
"

jewel.
B
came

passed
dozen

schoolroom,
A

children minor
;

in
to

choly melan-

presently we
the of

the

chief
the

sight
French

of

Kossair
at

old
the

fortress

built

by

the

end the

eighteenth century.
a

One

enters

building through
a

masonry

archway,
with

closed

by

heavy

wooden
or

door
four

clamped
cannon

iron.

There

are

still three
but life, and I
are

inside
and

it to
are

tell of its past

now

the
as

rooms

courts

whitewashed

used
no

camel
here

stables
in the

by

the

coastguards.
which
will

have
me

books

Upper Egypt
and
to

tell
for

the

details

of
of

Anglo-French
I

struggle

the

possession
it
to

Kossair,
readers

must

therefore my

leave

my

correct

ignorant

statements.

It

80

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

appears,

then,

that the
one

French

force

occupied
rule
the
a

the
in

fortress

during
and that

time
fine

of

Napoleon's
in

Egypt,
there

day
the
sea

year

1800

came

sailing over
which the that

squadron

of

English men-o'-war,
so

landed
were

storming party
constrained
to

formidable
the

French
to retreat

evacuate to
a

place and
With
of the

across

the there these

desert
were

Keneh.

English
troops,
Nile
in

force
and

large body
across

Indian
to

were

marched
French
;

the

pursuit

of

the

but

ere

more

serious

operationshad
is said that when the

taken

place
the

the

of Napoleon's army capitulation

to
a

brought
the

campaign
of Hathor and

close.

It

Indian
cow

soldiers

saw

representation of
the

sacred of

upon

walls
upon

of

the

temples
knees

Koptos
did

Kus,
as

they fell
in of their
own

their

and

obeisance

temples.
live
the
to

The

inhabitants
in such

Kossair

such

an

age of

and these
are

stagnation that
are

events stirring

old here

days

still talked with

of, and
the

Englishmen
querors. con-

still endowed

prestige of
one's the head

Involuntarilyone
as an

held
out

higher
the

old the

Shekh French

pointed
fled,and

gate through

which

that
;

through which

entered English bluejackets

the

and, walking through

tents,
one

quiet

streets to

back

to

the

gave

nautical

hitch

the

trousers, talked

contemptu-

Kossair.

Arabian

boats

on

the

beach.

"

Page

72.

street

in

Kossair.

Pl.

xiii.

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

81

ously

of

"

Boney,"
the

discussed

the

plans

of

Lord
we

Nelson,

named
"

yawning
another

natives
"

whom Shiver

passed

lazy lubbers,"
called
one

murmured
"me

my

timbers,"
in
a

hearty," and,
entente

word, acted
camp vague the

to faithlessly

the

cordiale.

In that

remainder

of the the

day

was

spent in
of the
sea

potteringwhich
There
to
were

presence

always
upon others the

induces.
shore

some

beautiful natives
the

shells

the

attract

one,

and

brought
shade of

for sale, lying down

tent

to

sleep in
to

kitchen

until
were

we

deigned
Amidst
some

to

give
made

them and
at

attention.

There
to

sketches

be the

photographs
the south

be of

taken. the
were

houses
of

end

town

fragments
upon, and

Ptolemaic

temple
to

stumbled
to

the
were

thereon inscriptions
too

had
be

be much

copied.

These

fragmentary
for the there

of

importance, and,
ancient
name

except
Kossair

above-mentioned

of

written,
be
most

no

point
here.

of

particular
lunched

interest
and named

requires to
off

noted

We

dined

the

excellent

fish, a

species

belbul
a

while being particularlypalatable,

kind of

crayfish and

cockles

were

immoderately
try
our

indulged in.
the turned in

Having arranged
to

to

hand

at

catchingof crayfishduring
early
should

the short

night hours, we
time until

sleep for
us.

the

fishermen

call

82

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

The
set
a

summons

having
the

come

at

about
two

11

p.m.,

we

out

along

moonlit
us,
a

shore,

fishermen and

and

boy accompanying
destination
was

carrying nets
spot
sea, at

lanterns. the
so

Our

which

coral flat
over a

reefs, projecting into

surface the whole that
area

the

presented
would
more

the
at

incoming
a

tide of not

wash than
a

depth

few

inches.

In

the

shallow

water,

we

were

told, the
lanterns,
our

crayfish would
and
These from show have
we

crawl, attracted
then

by
with

our

could

pick them
not

up

fingers.

crayfish are

at

first

sightdistinguishable
a

larger lobsters, though

that
no

second fact

glance will
that

the

difference

lies in the
can

they
with

claws, and

therefore
are

be

caught
inches

impunity.
from

They

fearsome

-looking
them the

creatures,
or

nevertheless, often
head
that
to

measuring twenty
In

so

tail.
one

eating eating

it is hard
most

to

believe lobsters. A

is not

tasty

of

tedious
our

walk ardour
was

of
;

over

three
as

miles
fishermen the

somewhat told
too
us

damped
that for when

and

the and
not

the

moon

too

high
were

tide
best

low

good hunting, we
at

in the coral

spirits
Here,

last the

we

turned
was

on

to

the

reef.

however,
the

scene

so

weirdly picturesque that

a

catching

of

the

crayfish became
The

matter

of

secondary import.

surface

of the

reef, though

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

83

flat, was
grew it the front the
was

broken

and In
to

jagged,
uncertain

and

much

seaweed the
moon

upon

it.

the

light of

difficult

walk

without the

stumbling;
hovered
out
a

but in

ghostly figures of
of
sea, us,

fishermen the way

and

silentlyled
uttered washed and

towards kind of of of the the

which
as

continuously
over

sobbing
coral curlews
had

it

the

edges
wail the the

reef.
were

This the

the

unholy
for

only sounds,
upon
us,

fishermen

imposed
As

silence

and

moonlight

furthered
we

their
walked

wishes.
over

the small

reef

we

had

to

pick

our

way

between
or

several
feet in left the

patches
which

of water

some

five

six

breadth,

appeared
tide in
one

to

be

shallow

pools
of in these from the the

by

the

last

the

slight
noticed
to

depressions
that reflected
saw

rock. white

Presently
clouds

pools
the heavens

appeared

be
one

sky, but
were

quickly looking
cloudless.
dawned

up

that
at

Staring
upon sand
one

closer that the

water,

it

suddenly
were

these bottom

white of the

clouds

in
as

realitythe suddenly
a

at

pools,and
bottom
one

came

the

discovery that
feet
to
or
more.

that Now
at

lay at
went
on

depth

of fifteen

hands

and

knees
one

gaze

down that

those

moonlit
a

depths, and
small
mouth

realised the

each
area

pool was being

but

great globular cavern,

the of it.

surface

84

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

One of

found coral

oneself which
was

kneeling
deeply
into
as

on

projecting ridge
all round
was

undermined

and, looking down

of

the of the

bowl,
an

one

reminded
tank the
seen

nothing

so

much In

aquarium

through
bottom grew
sea.

glass.
of the

moonlight
be the fair

cloudy

caverns

could
and

discerned, whereon
flowers of the

great

anemones

Sometimes

an

arched
one

suffused gallery,
cavern

with
the dim

pale light, led ceiling

could realms these of

from

to

the

next,
with

these

passages

decorated

plants,the
one

floor with have been

coloured
carried
as

shells.

Not

easily
into
the
at

so

completely
by the
sailed

of

Fairyland
the dim

one

was

gazing

depths.

Presently
forms moved the

there

through
now

the

still water
the

of fishes, and
two
men

through
as

there galleries

shining lamps,
of the Two and the
sea

though carried
them

by
the into

little

to

light
small

amidst

anemones.

more

lamps passed
the
sea

the

cavern

floated
tendrils

through
of the

water,

now

glowing
the

amidst

plants, now
the
not

rising towards
to

the

surface, and

now

sinking again
at

shells,the

sand,

and

the

flowers

bottom.
at
once

It
to

was

that

one

could
the of

bring
luminous I

oneself
eyes do
not

realise that
a

these

lightswere
the
name

of

strange
;

fish,
the

which

know

but

now

fishermen,

who

had

suddenly

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

85

drawn had

their driven
a

net

across

the

edge

of

the
on

reef
to

and the

dozen
beckoned

leaping
us

creatures

exposed rock, species at

close

to

look

at

this
were

curious
parent, trans-

quarters.
around The

Their
their

bodies mouths

and

from

many

filmy
brown orbs
set

tentacles
in in

waved.

eyes
as

were

large and
stone

colour, and
a

appeared Many
came

fantastic

glass body.
as

other

varieties it

of fish

were

caught
the
moon

the
was

tide
too

in ; but

appeared

that

powerful

for successful the of catch

sport in
of

regard
but
four

to

the

crayfish,and
The

consisted

of these.
was

sight

the

fairycaverns,
for
one

however,

entertainment
it
was

sufficient
that
sea one

night
away in the

and

with
fair

discontent

turned
to

from

these

kingdoms
of the of

of the

return tents.

small

hours the

morning
the

to ocean,
an

the the

The
caverns

moonlight,
lit

sobbing
mind felt
the

deep

by unearthly lamps, left

the
one

impression
not

of
to

unrealityupon dispel;
and

which
a

it

was

easy

that

glance

had

been
and
a

vouchsafed

through
had
the been

forbidden
of
scenes

gates,

glimpse
of since tasted of

obtained
of one's and

unthought
Had
we

days

childhood.
was

also
of

the

lotos,

this
\

but

one

the

dreams

of the

dreamy
visit

Kossair

Upon
the
coast

followingday
the site

I rode
of

northwards

along
port,

to

the

Ptolemaic

86

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

which
An

lies about ride

five miles

from hard which

the wind the

modern

town.
us

hour's little

against a
the

brought
mounds The

to

the

inlet, around
of
was

and
water

potsherds
in the

town

are

scattered.
blue
;
a

bay
of

of the

deepest
and
sea

plain rolling
by
the the up in
a

of

yellow

sand

lay eastwards,
;

backed
overhead washed

darker

ranges

mountains

white
line

clouds
of white

raced

by.
on

The
to
a

breakers
a

risingbar
of of water
an

of

sand, sparkling
Behind

with
this bar here

thousand
were

varieties

shells.

there there south and upon

pools
have

passing inland,
artificial harbour.
rocks
rose

and On the

may

been

the
sea,

side of the
on

bay

bold there

jutted
a

into
of

the

north the

series
old
town

mounds
were

which

remains
over

of the

strewn.

Walking
roar

these
waves

mounds,

where

the upon

rhythmic
the
ears,

of

the

falls

continuously thoughts

one's

mind
which

was

filled with
so

of the of that have

men

ancient ancient
so

port

has with

utterlyfallen,and
East
romance

commerce

the and

which

must to

been of old. have

full of adventure Here from the these

the

mounds

the

people towns-

watched

great galleysset
land of

out

over

the
seen

seas

for the

mysterious
of
and Pount here

Hind,

and

have

the the

wealth
quay of
;

and
so

Arabia

unloaded later
to

upon the

many

centuries

labours

Egyptologists are

beginning

per-

The

interior

of the

mosque

at

Kossair.

"

Page

78.

The

main

entrance

of

the

fortress

at

Kossair."

Page

79.

Pl.

XIV

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

87

mit

one

to

recall

something
of the

of

what

they
has
not

saw,

though
touched
There but and
one.

the

spade
site.
two two

excavator

yet

this
are

wells
or

within
three
must

reach

of

this spot,
away,

both the

are

hours' have

journey
been
a

water

question
to to

serious

The

well other This

the the

north
west

is named is
name

Bir Bir
a

Guah,
Ma-

and

the

called of

howatat. of
came

latter

is

the who

tribe

Bedwin

living at
find

Suez,
El that for may El

state

that

they
It
is be

originallyfrom
after

Wij
a

in

Arabia.
here

interesting to
named

well

should

them,
one

Wij
realise

is

nearly opposite
what course inter-

this

point, and
there is and

thus

and
even

always
as

has

been
as

between Kossair.
we

Arabia

Egypt,
with

far south
at
our

Returning
reached
the

the

wind
rode

backs
the

soon

Kossair, and
to
our

through
To
an

streets

of

sleepy town
came

tents.

tea

in the
or so

noon aftertained enter-

the with Bom of

Mudir,
tales
an

who of
ennu

for i.

hour

us

Kossair
for

fell
a

asleep

when in the
more

the

Empire fell,awoke
but

moment
once

days
over
a

Napoleon,
ago.

slid into
There
was

slumber
a

century
steamers

time

when
now

the
even

east

coast

used
the
town

to

call here, but

to

they
one

have

left
to

its

long

siesta. and

As

listened

the

story of decaying trade

88

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

languid
eater
was

idleness
ever

the in the for

vision
mind
an

of
;

Tennyson's
one's

lotos-

was

and

sympathy
here
as

as

profound
envy

official stationed who

was

one's
rest

of the for

man

might
his Mudir

be

permitted
upon
at

to

himself
sunny

awhile

from The

labours
was,

this

mild,
of
our

shore.

the

time
arrival and

visit, anxiously awaiting the

the
steamer to

tardy
him

of

which for

was

to

take

his

family
eye the
at to

Suez

three the

months'
sea

leave,
at

and pause

his
in

fixed

itself upon
;

every

conversation the
door
own

and

when it
was

he

bid but

us

farewell
return

of

the

tent,

to

his the

doorway,
smoke

where the

he
sun

might
should

watch
set.

for

distant

until

Early journey sloping

turned
the
so

next to

morning
Nile.

we

commenced
we

the
away the
a

return

the

As the
to

rode hills obtain

in

over

the
we

sand
in
our

towards saddles

west

last
was

view

of

strange little dream-town

which

sinking
from the

surely to
sunlit
on

its death.
shore in north
one

The

quiet sea
line

rippled upon
Mountains
a

the

long
the
trace

of blue

houses
on

the

to
a

Tourquoise
of the smoke beach their

the

south.

Not
town.

nor

sound
of

rose

from
men

the

On

group

three

lay sleeping
two

with

arms

behind

their

heads, while

others

crouched

languidly

The

Red

Sea

Highroad.

89

on

their

haunches

watching
in the the silence

our

disappearing
of

cavalcade.
there
came

Then,
to
us

the
soft

morning,
call
One
to to

on

breeze
of the words

the

prayer

from
not

the hear the

minaret
warbled

mosque.
;

could

but

the

sleeping
must

figures
be

on

the
to

beach,
those

one

thought,
the
song of

they
the

surely
-eaters
:
"

akin

of

lotos

"

How "With

sweet

it

were, eyes in
a

hearing
ever

the
to
seem

downward

stream,

half-shut

Falling
To

asleep
each

half-dream

hear

other's lotos

whispered by day,
ripples
of
on

speech

Eating
To j^nd To To watch

the

day

the

crisping curving
hearts of

the

beach,
spray;

tender lend the

our

lines and

creamy

spirits

wholly melancholy.
..."

influence

mild-minded

On discern
out

the
a

quay

in

the white catch

far

distance

we

could

just

portly
to

figure
the been first

gazing

steadfastly
of the

to

sea

glimpse
so

steamer

which

had

awaited

patiently

for

so

long.

IV.

THE

IMPERIAL

PORPHYRY

QUARRIES.

Those

who
and

have
in

travelled
the the ruins

in

Italy,
there,

and,
have

in

the

museums

studied
of with

the

sculpture
Roman

and

architectural
will be known

accessories
familiar

the that

Imperial purple
was one

age,
stone

magnificent
It ornamental and

as

Imperial prized
great
;

Porphyry.
of

of

the

most

highly by
of

the

stones

employed
of that age had

the

artists
the

architects distance deserts

luxury
be

and

great

which
and

it

to

brought,
must

over

parched
its

perilous
the

seas,

have all

sent

price
of

up

beyond
earth.
from

reach

of

save

the The

rulers

the

quarries
are

which
in Hills the

this

porphyry
known in

was

obtained
Gebel

situated
"the

region
of

as

Dukhan,

Smoke," twenty
the Two

the

Eastern
miles end of from

Egyptian
the Red

Desert, Sea,
of

some

seven

opposite
Sinai.

southern three

the

Peninsula

or

The

start

from

Keneh.

Native

police loading- the

camels.

"

Page

91

Midday

rest

at

El

Ghaiteh.

Camels

feeding

from

the

bushes.

"

Page

96.

PL.

xv.

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

91

travellers

during

the

last the

century

have

visited of

them,
the

and

recently
the and

Survey
has

Department
a

Egyptian
report
on

Government
whole
an

published
;

nical techthe

district article

but
the
on

with

exception

of

this

by

German
the ject, subtraceable. un-

explorer Schweinfurth,
such
as

the

literature
to

it is,
1887
a

seems

be

more

or

less
name

In

gentleman
concession

of

the for

of
working re-

Brindley

obtained of the
to

there
the of

the

quarries, but
the Mr

project

fell

through owing
the of
to
on

difficulties
John

transporting
the

stone.

In

1907

Wells,
of

Director

the
make the it

now

defunct
an

Department
Gebel

Mines, decided
to

expedition to
with found accompany of modern

Dukhan the

report
works
;

of reopening possibilities
was

old

and

considerable

pleasure
able
to

that

received,
invitation
far in the the

and
to

myself

accept, his
to
see

him, in order

how
concur

Department

Antiquities

could

projects of
set 400
: a

engineers.
a

We
some

out

from
above of in

Keneh,

town

on

the

Nile
of
sure

miles
time

Cairo,
when for the
one

in

the
cannot

middle
be and and

March of

year

good
south

weather

Egypt,
for

the

winter

the the in

summer

together fight
winds

mastery,
north in

hot

vie with
are

the

cold

winds
the

ferocity.

Sand-storms

frequent

desert

92

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

in this
can

month,
be

and

these, though

seldom We
;

ous, dangerwere,

extremely disagreeable.
fortunate that the in this winds

ever, how-

most

respect
were

and, in spite
not

of

the

fact any

strong, I do

recall

particulardiscomfort
memory

experienced
back the
not

from
rare

them,
vision

though
of
men

brings

struggling with
Our which
water
caravan

flapping tents
of
some

and

flying ropes.
camels,
of and

consisted

fifty
the
selves, our-

about
;
a

thirty -five
dozen
were

carried

baggage
Mr others and
;

ridden

by

Wells'
two

our police,

native

assistants, and
to

and

or

three

belonged

the

Shekh

the The

guides.
business of The

setting out
camelmen order
over

is

always trying
attempt
to

to

the

patience.
beasts
;

load be that

their

lightly in
they dawdle
may

that
the short
;

more

may

employed
the unused may the rid

packing
the such antics

day's journey
to

be

camels,
as

their

burdens,
the
most

perform

them

quickly
as

of

the

incubus

untried
the
are

ropes

break
to

the

last
;

knot
the

is tied,

and
camels

loads
too

fall

the

ground

riding-

fresh, and,

volve groaning loudly, re-

in

small

circles,as
were a

though

one's
are

whistle
no

of

encouragement
in the may world
use a
so

waltz.

There

people
"

or slovenly,so unpractical,

if
as

one

very

slang

word

"

so

footling,

the

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

93

inhabitants
so

of the

Eastern

Desert.

One

has

heard

often

of the

splendid desert
eyes, of and the

tribes, of fine figures

and

and

flashing
manners

dignity

distinction, of
that
one

gracious
come

lofty words,
of

has
to

to
as

expect

members
are

one's

caravan

be
a

princely as
that of
one

they

picturesque.
them
to

It is with

shock

finds

be

but

ragged

weaklings,
Is
now

low

and intelligence

little whose

dignity.
ears

this, one

asks, the
boxed
sons

proud
one's

Bedwi ?
are

are

being
brave

by
of the

servant

And

are

these

the

desert

who

being
of and
a

kicked
the
son

into
of

shape by
?

that

smart
now,

negro

policeman,
ten

slaves

Look

eight or
their

the
are

Bedwin

have for
we

quarrelled over
their
not
see

camels,
for

feeling
shall the of

knives
some

in

preparation
No and the

fight :

stirring action,
old ?
;

redolent black
to

brave

days
his
can

of

policeman
as

seizes
as

camelcatch
as

whip
of

administers

many sound

he

the

flying wretches boys might

rather
to
sense.

as

beating

any

naughty
them
-

receive.
in

Lean

-faced, hungry -eyed, and

may with these
as one

upright

one carriage,

expect
common

be

quick-witted
Yet
are

and

endowed

of

all the

stupid people stupidest;

of
a

unwashed
sees

miseries them
ropes,
at

and

the

starting
the

caravan,

muddling

the

upsetting

loads, yawning, scratching themselves, squabbling

94

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

in

high,

thin

voices, and
and

tripping over
guns, the one's

their dream fades

quated antiof the

no

swords
Bed
more

long
of

win

in

this

part

desert

and

returns.

Perhaps, however,
is at
a

it is the
live in
to

point of
the

view

which

fault.
to

Did
or a

one

desert

without
those

deed

do

thought knowledge
be

think

beyond
of and

connected
with
as so

with vague
an a

the

little necessities
of

life, and
distance of idea the of

time

such

existence

requires,one's
different, and
be less

notion
one's

practical might
has
race

intelligencemight
one

lofty. Perhaps, too,

the

not
;

yet
the

met
cam

with

genuine types

of
an

the

for

el- drivers the be

employed by
wTho wander the

economical

Shekh,
the the

and

goatherds
but tribes.

through
off from
are a

valleys, may
more

riff-raff cast there which

remote to

Moreover,
rule

few
met

exceptions
with
even

the

general
the

may these

be
are

amongst

camelmen,
to

but

notable hardly sufficiently

a

record. eastwards north-

At

last

start

was

made

and

riding

over

the
the

hot, sandy plain, we

distant

trotted

slowly
rose

towards
a

limestone
of
over

hills which
vapour.

above
some

shiftingmirage
our

lake-like the

For

miles
but
a

road
at

led
the

hard, flat
hour
we

desert

opportunely
of rock

lunching
afforded

passed

spur

which

welcome

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

95

shade,
At

and

here

we

rested is
a

for

an

hour known

or

so.

this

point
rather and

there

well,

as

Bir

Arras,
bushes miles

prettily situated
desert from scrub Keneb
on

amidst
as

tamariskis

but

it

only
used
we

ten

distant

it is not

much

by

travellers.
somewhat much round broken the

Riding
to

in the

afternoon,

verged
a

the up

left, and

passed along
of bushes other
we

valley

by

low
roots

mounds
of

sand
;

collected
and here
trees

decayed
the

several
lent
to

thriving tamarisks
to
scene.

and Soon

small turned

colour the

again
of

left, and
of the

presently
hills,upon
in Roman

crossed

two

projecting
stone

spurs had the find Keneh been the his the

low

which

beacons either

been

erected
to

days, on
It is

side of

track,
that
to

mark

the

road.

interestingto
route stone

along
the
at

the

whole

length

of the

from

quarries these
should
have

piles of
in

have
that

placed
traveller
\v7ay.

irregular intervals
no

order

in finding difficulty the

a

Towards

evening
bed
other of bushes
we

tracks

led

us

up

clearly marked
tamarisks for
a

dry river,
;

bordered

by

and short
tents

and, passing along

called
a

this

distance,

halt,
hillocks

and
to

pitched
one

the

amongst

the

sand
we

side.
soon

The after
we

following morning
sunrise
;

were

on

the

road

and, riding along

the Roman

the

dry

river-bed,

presently reached

station

96

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

of
a

El half the

Ghaiteh,
hours' Roman

which
trot

lies,in all,
Keneh. the the road

some

seven

and first
to
vans cara-

from
on

This from

is the Keneh

of

posts
and the

Gebel

Dukhan,
halted for is
a

here

ancient
At the

express foot of
a

night.
with

lowin

hill there which The

fortified
rooms

rectangular enclosure,
vaulted of feet roofs
are

several
walls
are

built.
and

constructed

broken
or more

stones,
in

still stand The

entrance

some

twelve
is flanked it
one

height.
and

by
sees

round
on

towers,
left
a

passing through
tank, built
the of

the

large
which

burnt

bricks

and
well the

cement,
in the station

in

water,

brought
to

from
north

the of

plain,was
there
are

stored.
the walls ruins

Just of

the

the been

animal

lines, where
on a

rough
stalls
on

stone

have
a

built
in

well-ordered
the
run

plan,
in top, hillthe

forming
there of officers'

courtyard
Above
are
some

which

parallelrows.
sun-dried

the

enclosure,

carefully constructed
brick,
which in
over

ings buildbeen of
-

may the

have shade

the the

quarters.
eye

Resting
wandered

ruins, one's
desert
to

the
and

sun

burnt
back
at

the

hazy

hills

beyond,
to

thence
bushes

along
foot the

the the

winding twigs, against

river-bed
the where

the

the

of

hill, where
and the

camels
green

lazilycropped dragon sky.

-

dry

flies

hovered

intensely blue

Then

The

Roman

station
on

at

El A

Ghaiteh,

looking

down

from

quarters
across

the

hill.
"

dry

river-bed

bordered

by

the officers' bushes runs

the

plain. Page 96.

tank

for

storing water

inside

the

station

of

El

Ghaiteh.

"

Page

96.

PL.

XVI.

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

97

again

the
one

ruins

claimed
to to

one's

attention,
the
to
were

and of

presently
the when and
to

seemed and

forget
drift
back

things
the heaved

present time,
the blocks of

days

Imperial Porphyry
and

hoisted, carried
the Nile and
to

dragged along
three hours
us

this road

Rome.
over

ride of somewhat

across

wide,
next

undulating,gravel plains brought

Roman

to

the

station, known
two

as

Es

Sargieh, which
to

lies of the been

between
main made there

low

mounds
a

just

the

north has
at

track. in
are

Here
to

large
of

excavation and and

order the of

obtain

water,

its

edge
structed con-

remains and

troughs
The been
a

tanks and up

brick

cement.

sand

clay
in
an:

from

the

excavation
so as

has
to

thrown

embankment,
At and Es
one

form the
near

rectangularenclosure..
of
are
a

one

end

there

are

ruins

few

chambers,

the

animal

lines the

by

clearlymarked.
the road and

Sargieh marks
track the white
an

point where
Gebel

divides,
the
;

leading to

Dukhan,
Um

other and

to
was

granite quarries of
point
hard dim for the
rest

Etgal day

it

thus From

important watering-station.
of the
our

this
a

road

lay across
ahead
we

flat

bounded plain,
of

in the

distance
As
two

by

the

peaks
some

granite mountains.
time
and
at

had

stopped
ruins,

considerable

the
men

Roman

the

baggage
G

camels

had

98

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

pushed

far

in

advance,
to
came

and,
so, out.

with

characteristic
the
not
sun

stupidity,continued
down and the
stars

do

though
It
was

went

till

long
the and
a

past dinner-time

that, ridingfuriously through

darkness,

we

managed

to
we

catch

them

up

hungry, aching, and

cold
a

cross,

quickly During
had

devoured the the

meal

and wind

rolled
came

into
near

bed.
to

night
tents,

gale of
we

overthrowing
we

for the

had

bivouacked
upon the
as,

where

overtaken The
one

caravan,

exposed plain.
clad
at

night
pulled
a prise surD

air felt
at

cold bitterly
and find
at

in pegs

pyjamas,
;

ropes
to

hammered the this

but

it

was

thermometer time
in the of year.

standing

at

32

Fahrenheit

Having daybreak
the

camped
that
we

darkness, it
that
we

was

not

till

realised

had the of dark

now

crossed of
a

plain,and

were

already
into
a

near

mouth rocks

valley which
two
we

led

region
Not

tween be-

ranges
our

of hills.

long

after

sunrise
into

mounted

camels, and

presently passed
above hills the
rose

this
and array

valley. Jagged
behind of them
seen

cliffs towered
soft brown A

road,
in
an

the

dimly
"

peaks.
is to Es say,

ride of two

hours

up five the

this

valley
trot

that
from

altogether about
"

hours'
Roman

Sargieh
Atrash. several

brought
There is

us

to

station

of El

fortified

enclosure

containing

regularly arranged

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

99

buildings, a tank,
of brick
towers

and The

deep,

circular is

well

structed con-

brick.
up

gateway
steps
are

flanked

by

which

the

can

still be traced. usual animal block of for scenery

as feeling,

Outside lines
;

the and

enclosure
near

there there have

to

the
a

by
must

lies

large
The
a

porphyry
some

which
on

been river.
was

abandoned

reason

its way

the

here the

is wild eye

and

desolate.
from the range grey
moon.

There
to

passed
up
to

range

of that

menacing
one

hills and

clouded
The air

sky, day

was

travelling in misty,
altitude
feet. From here and
to

the
the

was

cold

and the
2000

sharp
we

already
"

told

of

which

had

risen

now

nearly

the

road

led

through valleys lying

The brown
over

between
of the of
were

hills of rocks
now

height. ever-increasing

colour
to
a

changed
while

from the

deep

kind
we

soft

purple ;

ground
of

which

moving, being composed

to
a

of particles

red
as

granite,turned though
and the
scene one were

curious

rosy

hue.

It

was

looking through
of the colour grey
"

tinted
the
"

glass; valley,
to

these

combinations

red

purple hills, and

a

sky

gave

the

beauty
lunched
on

indescribable.
in

We

the

shadow

of

the

rocks, and
dreams

sleeping
were

the

ground
and

thereafter

one's

in

mauves

burnt-siennas.

ioo

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

Mounting

again

and than

riding along
ever

this H.
we

wonderful

feelingmore valley,
men

like Mr afternoon

G. Wells'
reached lies in
a a

in the Roman

moon,

early in
of

the

the

station

Wady

Gatar,

which and

hollow hours'
as

amidst
ride from of
an

lofty hills,some
El Atrash. The

three

half

station

consists,
well,
the well
were

before,
animal

enclosure, chambers,
it is had
more

disused
than is camels
a

and other
not

lines ; but which

we

ruined
There the

posts
far
to
a

seen.

from

this
watered

point,to
;

which
we were

sent

be

and

thus

able

to

spend
hills.

quiet

afternoon

in

our

camp

amongst

the

Towards
mound

sunset

climbed

to

the the and

top

of

low

of rocks the of

which
of

overlooked the

fortress, and
the
to

there

silence

evening
hues

ness strangea

the of
awe

surrounding
the
sense

enhanced

point
this

almost

of aloofness
upon the
to
one.

which On
the the of

part
the brown

of the

desert
a

imposes gravel
Behind,

right
dim,
the

line

of

valley drew
of

eyes

over

waves

the and

darkness

rugged
the

horizon.
was
a

sweeping upward,
and
to

sky
to

golden
and

red

this

presently
blue.

turned

green,

the

green

deep
the

On

the with
nearer

left
a

some

reflected
of

lighttinged purple, and

out

eastern

sky
the

suggestion
mountains

against this
In front

stood

darkly.

the

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

101

low

hills
so

met

together,
that of
a

and
one

knit

themselves have There when

was

into

shapes
them sound

strange
distortions be

might

thought
not
unseen
a

the
to

dream.
once

heard,

except
birds

an

flightof migatory high

read much
as

passed

with

soft dark

whir
to

overhead.

The

light was
I
;

dim,

"

too
was

the

book
to

which
read

carried.

Nor
was

there

desire
the eyes and

for the
an

mind

wandering,
of
realities, un-

were,
was

in

indistinct silent
of

region

almost
warm,

thought.
the

Then

in

the

perfect stillness,with
prone dead in

whole
which
came
"

wilderness

laid

that
of
a

listless haze

anticipatesthe
at

sleep
"

night, there
small, black,
hill- top.
nearer,

first almost

unnoticed
over
an

moving
So
that
a

mass,

creeping
inclined

indefinite
moved

silentlyit appeared,
one

so

slowly
the

was

to

think

it a part of the dream,

vague

sensation of
the

passing across

solemn, sleepy
the quietly, of

mind
mass

desert.

Presently, very
a

resolved
it
some
was

itself into

compact
and the
one
one

flock

goats.
discern
"

Now with the for

drawing degree
of

nearer,

could

detail

little

procession
have

procession of
it
was

dream-ideas face

might
in the

said,

difficult to

facts

twilight.

Along
of the

the

valley it moved,
arose
a

in the and, fluttering the

see

wind, there

plaintive bleating and

pipe.
He
"

wail him

goatherds

one

could

102

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

now

"

was

walking
held
a

in advance from

of his which he From flock in

flock, and
was

his

two

hands

reed

pouring hill-top
passed
and of
as

the

ancient
soon

melodies
look had

of his
on

race.

the
as

I could below. the

down
become

the

it
;

It

brown

colour and

pipe

ceased

awhile

the

shuffle
be
to

patter
It
was

hundred

little creatures
more

could

heard.

gentle sound,
diminish Behind
white the the

inclined

augment
of the

than

to

dreamy
flock

character
two

procession.
their

figures moved,
the

garments
the

flutteringin
form and

wind, changing
of
at

grotesquely
Over followed the

shape
and

the
a

wearers.

gravel they
the Over
them

went,

distance
as

dogs
the

of the

herd, growling
and

they valley,
the bend

passed.
and

gravel
the
the be
no

down

the

with

went

gentle patter
reed

and
a

wandering
in
and the

refrain
or

of

pipe. fading
But
was

Then of the in the

path,
flock

may
seen

the
more.

dream,
ness darkless listone's

the

was

which
to

had

gathered aught
Gatar

one

almost

too

feel that

had

passed beyond day

the the

pale.
We

left
and

Wady
entered

the

next

soon

after On the

lunch

another

fine

valley.
to

right
in after

the

granite cliffs sloped up

faces of rock. On of

misty sky
left range
ones

clean, sheer
range

dimly peaked

hills

carried

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

103

thoughts
and after
we were

into the

the air

clouds.

The and

afternoon

was

less sun-

bracing
were

keen.

The for

camels,
and brisk
now

their
soon

long drink, swinging

road
a

ready
the

work,
a

up

valley at
side
to

trot.

The in

turned

from

side,
the and

leading passing
to

dozen of
some

clear

tracks

up

wide,
now

gravelled bed
in
next.
a

forgotten torrent,
path from
turn
new one

single narrow
With
every visible

valley
of slid these

the

groups

mountains into

became The

and

higher peaks
a

sight.

misty
their

air lent

softness

to

groups,

blending
until

varied

colours

into
the

almost
ranges
to

celestial harmonies

of tone.

Gradually
the afternoon

mounted,
draw

at

last, as

began
of

in, the
rose

towering purple
from behind the

mountains
dark rocks

Gebel
to

Dukhan left of
It
oi
was our

the

road. almost
sunset

before
the

we

reached
sun
was

the

foot

this

range, the
more

and

cloudy
hills
as

passing
was

behind We
was were

distant
in
a

halt

called.

now

wide, undulating valley,which

the

hemmed

in

by

superb

mountains

on

three the up of

sides

and

disclosed
The the

low, open
beams
dark of

country
the hidden
a

towards
sun

north-east. from

shot

behind

hills in
the

sudden

glare
sky
turned southern

brightness, and
to
a

presently
The

clouded

deep

crimson.

loftypeaks

of the

104

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

mountains
and vivid sprang

now

caught
of the
a

the mist few

disappearing sunshine
in
a

out

hundred the

points of tion conflagraout

red.

For

only
before in

minutes

lasted, but
vaporous north-east of

it had
far

fully died
the miles

the the

outlines
took

the and
some

distance

towards last away, the the

form

colour, and

gleam
the

sunlight revealed,
line of of the the
sea,

twenty
above

thin

and A

it later
in

stately
vision

mountains had

Sinai.
sun

moment

passed,
the
came

had

set, and

the

gathering
round
a

darkness

baggage camels, lumbering

into

bend,
more

sight, calling our

meal

attention

to

material
In the

things.
our was

semi-darkness, while
visited
Bileh
a

being
stands

prepared, we
in the

Roman
at

station
foot

which of the
a

Wady
from

the

Gebel

Dukhan

mountains,
trot

about

three of

and

quarter
The in the the

hours'

the

fortress the

Wady

Gatar.

porphyry quarries and valley at

them
over
a

settlement
range

lay
and

the

other
we

side of the
now

of hills at
to

foot of which
one

were

standing ;
climb
or

reach

might
in the

either
range,

by

an

ancient ride
to

path
round be of the

pass

one

might
said
was

by

the

tortuous

valley
"

journey
station

nearly thirty
first

miles.

This

thus
caravans

night's halting-place for

the

express

returning from

quarries.

At

one

side

of

the

The

excavation

inside

the

enclosure

of

El

Sargieh.

"

Page

97.

The

Roman

station
the

at

El

Greiyeh.
which

The
were

animal
the

lines. stalls.

The

brick

pillars
139.

supported

roof

under

night

Page

Pl.

xvii.

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

105

wide, ancient

road

stands flanked

the

usual

small

enclosure,
and At
taining con-

having
other

doorway
few
a

with and

towers,
a

ruined

chambers of

well.

the
a

side mound

cluster
had been

granite rocks
surrounded
serve

risinginto
a

small
either because There the

by
as

stout

wall,

in order these
was

that rocks

it should
were

fortress,or
sacred.

for

some

reason

nothing particularly noteworthy

such in wild and it
not

about
nificent mag-

station, but, lying amidst

scenery, assumed
soon

the

half-lighta
foot
sun
was

charm At climb

which dawn
over

will
next

be
we

forgotten.
set out
on

morning
pass
to

to

the

the the the

quarries.
soft mists

The
as
we

struggling to penetrate
the

started

actual

ascent,
Here

and
and

air
one

was

cold

and

vigorat inthe
was

there

could

detect it

old Roman
so

path passing up
broken
across

the

but hillside, up the

much

that which

climb

dry
is

course, water-

it

zigzagged, was
the pass
or

preferable.
a

At

the

immediate fort

foot of

there
rooms,

small and
at
sea-

Roman the

containing three
is ruined
was

four

highest point, which

a

is 3150

feet

above the

level, there climber,

of water. view of
no

rest-house, where
able
to

tired
a

doubt,
Here the
at

obtain
we

at

least
a

pot

the

summit

had

ful wonderus

surrounding country.
rose

Behind ranges,

the

mountains

in

series of

misty

and

106

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

he fore

us

lay
the

the

valley

of

Gebel

Dukhan

winding
them the feet
on

between northern distance.

porphyry hills,while
rose

beyond
6000

mountains The well

1200

to

some

in the this
run

Roman

road,

descending
we

side,
down

was

preserved,and
feet of
or

were

able
us

to

the
to

so,

which

brought
The down the

less breath-

the

level

the

valley.
a

temple, town, Wady,

breadth side. houses
at

and
a

quarrieslay
where flat The

about

mile
a

point

there between
"

was

considerable hills
of
on

of

gravel
town

the
a

either crowded
on

ruins
a

cluster
"

enclosed
the

by
A

fortified wall
fine terrace
a

stand

the the

slope of
side,

hill.
up
to

runs

along
main
an

east

and the

this
one

ramp
enters

ascends. the

Passing through
street, and
the

gateway

attention
on

is first attracted Here

an

by

imposing building
are

the

right hand.
well-made

there

several

bers cham-

leading into
of

hall, at eight-pillared
and of

the

end

which

well-preservedplungethe A
an

bath

eloquently

tells

small

pleasures
from

of

expatriated Roman
main where
to

officers.
one

turning
open
some

the

street

brings
are

into and

courtyard,
stone

there
seen,

two

ovens

dishes

be

besides

large quantity
this
narrow

of

pottery
the
one

fragments.
little huts
set
are

Around

in

every lanes

direction

huddled,
from

dividing
town

of

chambers

the

next.

The

is, of

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

107

course,

very

ruined
to

but

it does

not

require much
that

imagination
crowd One

people
Roman,

it
and
out

again
the

with

noisy

of Greek,
sees

Egyptian
blocks
above broad
to

quarrymen. of the

them from in the

or

prising
the

purple valley,
temple

porphyry
returning
to

hillside

high

evening
knoll
to

down

the

causeway the
a

the

town, stands

passing up
a

the

steps

which

on

of

granite

rocks

couple
which
court
once

of hundred The

yards
lead

the
one

north-east. up
to
a

steps
the

platform
This
was

formed is
a now

forecourt

of the

the

temple.
of
on

covered

with

ruins

what
the

fine

granite portico rising

columns

east

side.

Four

supported
roof. of

an

inscribed which
this
was

architrave
the

and

decorated
or

cornice, above
Behind

ment pedi-

pointed
and

portico stood
carefully
ness. smooth-

the

sanctuary,

built

broken the led

stones

mortared
A the

plastered to
In the

necessary

granite doorway granite altar,

it lies the
"

from

one

side the

into

vestry.
the

forecourt, amidst
in

ruins,

stands
and
near

its

; originalposition

architrave the

with and

the the

proud
eternal
lute, absothe this

: inscription

For Lord

safety

victory of

our

Caesar
all his
to

Trajan Hadrian,
house
;

august, and great Serapis, and

to

the

Sun,

the

co-enshrined

gods,

temple, and

all that

is in it, is dedicated."

Then

108

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

follow

the

names

of of the of

the

Governor and

of

Egypt,

the

Superintendent
In the is
was

Mines,

other

officials.

middle
now

the

valley
A five of

there

is the

well,
of in
a

which which
a

choked.

gallery, the
the well

roof

supported by
round in
one

pillars,passes
;

half-circle drain
a

side

and have

shallow carried workmen which and looked and the

to
on

the of

pavement
water

seems

to

stream

along
shade
hills
to
so

it.
ease

Here the

the

could

sit in the
on

thirst
;
we

exercise
our

the

hot

soon

creates

return
more

journey
once

up

the

pass

back the

than

to
a

this kind

cool
of

gallery
envy of

plunge-bath

with

past.
The

quarries
without
were

are

cut

here

and

there The rock carried the like

were

on

the of

hillside

any

regularity.
out

blocks wherever
on,

porphyry
the the work

prised
most

of

the

could
of that the

easily be
has
so

and

action

years
now

dulled almost blocks

to

broken
those

surfaces
of

they

look The in fact

the

natural
to

mountain.

carried
in the for

clown

the

Nile, and
even
a

Rome,

rough,
the
as

without

preliminary dressing;
place
had
to

work much

in this distant
as

be

shortened

possible.
in the

Looking,
the capitals,

European

museums,

at

the and

fine the

polished basins,

the

statues,

Granite

hills to
range

the

south the

of
north

Wady
of this

Bileh.

The
"

Gebel
104.

Dukhan

is to

wady.

Page

Ruins

of

the
from

Roman which

temple at Gebel the porphyry was

Dukhan,
taken.
"

showing
Page

the

hillside

107.

Pl.

xviii.

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

109

many
one

other has of
one

objects

cut

out

of of

Imperial Porphyry,
the in
mason
or

admired the

the artist.

work But of these

the of
a

genius
Smoke

here

the

Hills

thinks

antiquitieswith
If the how ship workmanmuch
an

feelingbordering on
tells of
does that witness almost
was
an

veneration.
that
out

art

is dead, the

louder energy is the

the is

material also of
a

cry

praises of
of

dead?

Each

block

stone

history of organisation and thought.

to

activity

beyond
not

This

purple porphyry Egyptians

the
: a

known

the

ancient
have have from

Roman
to

prospector
it. of would
;

must

searched

desert
the be

find

One the

would

thought
which

that is to
the

aloofness

valley
have the in

it

procured
of the

kept its existence

one

secret

hills

for

on

side

winding pathway,
the
the

thirty
from side
a

miles

length, separates
main hills

spot
other the

the

little-known
of

road, and
shuts

on

barrier Bileh.

steep

it off from

Wady
it

Although
was

Gebel

Dukhan the

is

so

near

the be
coast

Red

Sea,

not

possible for
to

stone

to

transported
here
was

by
which

ship

Suez.

The for the

barren

harbourless, except
was

port of Myos
to

Hormos,
and
at

too

far

away have
across

be
to

practicable;
be

the

stone

would

had the

unloaded
to

Suez, and

dragged

desert

the

neigh-

no

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

bourhood of the

of

the had

modern

Port
to

Said. be

Every block
carried
on

porphyry
desert
to

therefore the

across

Keneh,

old

Kainepolis,

the the

Nile, and
sea.

thence it had

shipped by river-barge
to

to

Here

be

transhipped
thus the
were

to

the

great
across

Mediterranean the treacherous

galleys,and
sea

conveyed
of Eome.
oxen

to

port

Probably
men

the

blocks

dragged by
for
the

or

upon

rough
at

waggons,

roads from
-an

are

not

bad, except
to trot

certain
at

places.
the

To

ride

Keneh -hour

Wady
of
a

Bileh,
the

quiet
us

five -miles

camel,
hours
;

took that
or

altogether twenty-two
say, the

and

half
112

is to
so.

total distance
from

is about

miles
up the

The

winding path
the
;

Wady
this

Bileh

valley to
140

quarries brings
the
caravans

total
not

to

about

miles

and

could

have the
was

covered

this

in

less

than

eight
Keneh On
was

days.
the the camp

On

first

night
station
were

after
in

leaving
the open.

probably pitched night

here the of there

second and

El

Ghaiteh

reached,
and
at
a

provisions,water,
third
was

small

garrison. night

The
water

night
to

was

spent

Es the

Sargieh, where
fourth
the

be of

obtained. El
Atrash

On

the

houses
water

sheltered

travellers,
On

and fifth

provisions night Wady

was a

being
Gatar

here
was

obtainable.

the

reached, where

again

there

well.

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

1 1 1

The whence

sixth

night

was

passed

at

Wady
pass

Bileh, from
over

express the

messengers The the

could seventh

the

hill to in the

quarries.
and
on

night

was

spent
ment settle-

open,
was

following day

the

reached.

The

long
of between ruined

road the the

was

rendered

dangerous by
many
are

the the

incursions
hills with have

desert

peoples, and
stations Roman from
must
numerous

of

fortified

crowned
must

watch-towers.
road

troops
to

patrolled the
of these expense.

end

end, and
been
a

the
siderable con-

upkeep

garrisons
The
had
to
an

have

stone-cutters

and and had

quarrymen for
to

be

fed

and

provided
of

for ;

this be

purpose from

endless
the

train

supplies
Oxen
or

brought
for

Nile

valley.

donkeys
of the
move.

this

purpose, had
a

and be

for the

transporting
the be had

porphyry,
At Keneh

to

kept constantly on
of

service

barges
the
seas

had

to

organised, and
to

at

the
to

seaport
brave
the

galleys
with

be

in

readiness

their

heavy

loads.
"

It is of all this

of of
"

the

the activity,

energy,

the

bravery, the
the

power

the persistency, organisation, that

an

determination

object
story.
until

executed

in

Imperial Porphyry
The

tells the
worked

quarries were
a.d.,

about

the

fifth

century

for

the

Byzantine Emperors

derived

ii2

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

from this

their
fine

Roman

predecessors
stone.

an

affection
a

for

purple
on

There up

is
to

Greek
one

scripti inthe
and

the

path leading
reads,
the
"

of

workings, which
which is

Katholeke

Ekklesia,"
of

perhaps
the

latest

example
There

old-world is
no

activity in

Eastern world

Desert.
this

other

place
found,
be

in

the

where the

porphyry
at

is to ceased

be
to

and

when
some

quarries

last
to

worked,

time
of that

previous
stone

the
to
cease

seventh

century, the
nor

use

had

also,

has One

it

ever

again
whether

been

procurable.
will from pave
come
a

wonders
some

there

time

when of

millionaire, fresh
express
a

the

museums

Italy,will
the the of

wish of

to

his bathroom
;

with whether the

to

purple
Hills the

stone

the will and

Emperors

and with

of

Smoke

again ring

sound
the It may

hammer of
a

chisel, in response

demands be that

new

fashion. the

some

day

tourist
of

will the

awake

to

the

advantages
as
a

and

attractions

Eastern

Desert the will

motoring country,
ancient

will

rush of

through activity,
the road phyry. porfrom

wadys,
see

will visit the

centres

these With

quarries,and
a

will

desire
the

little
Dukhan

preparation
could
be the

Keneh

to

Gebel
;

made land

practicable
ceases

for automobiles

and

when the

once

to

be but

the

of territory

explorer and

the

pros-

The

Imperial Porphyry

Quarries.

113

pector,
seen,

one

may

expect of, and

its mineral
to finally
we

products
be

to

be

to

be

talked late

exploited.

In climbed of the

the

afternoon the

left the
road drink down
a

valley,and
the summit
our

slowly up
pass, The

Roman
to

to

halting here

deeply from
the

water-bottles.
was

descent

dry

course water-

accomplished in
to

long

series of

jumps
a

from

boulder

boulder,
The grey

at

imminent
were

perilof
smooth
a

sprained ankle.
and slippery,

rocks there

and

between

them
when

grew

yellowwas as

flowered

weed

which,
The and
to

trodden
rush

upon, the

orange-peel.
the

rapid
the take

down

hillside,
our

settingsun,
to

bracing wind, place amongst

carbines
half
as
a

caused

return

camp

its

the most Once

memories delightful
we

of the whole

expedition.
of the

halted, and
shot
a

borrowing the
a

native rounds noise feet

we police,

match of
stone

of

dozen The

apiece,with
echoed below
we

spur

target.
a

amongst
saw

the

rocks

and

thousand
our

the

ant-like into
the

of figures open
to

retainers the
"

anxiouslyhurrying
cause

ascertain

of
we

the

disturbance.
the
more

As

neared
once

bottom
this

of

the

hill the

sun

set, and with

the

wonderful

valley was
once more

lit the
from

crimson of Sinai mists

afterglow, and
stood
out

mountains

for the

moment

the

gathering

above
H

vivid

line of

the

ii4

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

Red

Sea. and

Darkness
weary,
too
we

had

fallen

when the the

at

sore last, foot;

reached
to

camp

and

one

was

almost half-basin in

tired
of
water

enjoy
which

sponge-down
all that the
can

in be

the

is

allowed
of

this
food

waterless which
one's

region,

and As all
one

meal
fell
to

tinned
that

followed. dreams
oxen

sleep
labours
weary

night,
of

were

of

strenuous

straining
and of the far

and

sweating
ambushes

men

of

marches

unsuspected
Nile and the

of

the
sea.

sand-banks But in of their

tempests
seemed

of
to

the

ever

the

distance

one

be

scious con-

thoughtless, fingers
reclined

implacable
into in the the

men,

dipping
of of

bejewelled
as

basins halls

purple

porphyry
Rome.

they

Imperial

On
Mr

the Wells

following
and the
to

morning
greater
the

our

party
of the wells

divided,
caravan

part

going
Zeit Mons
on

north-east the

petroleum
and I
to

of

Gebel
the

sea-coast,
of much the the

Um
where

Etgal,
the

Claudianus
also from
so

ancients,

white
was

granite, quarried

admired

by

the

Romans,

hillside.

The

ruins

of the of

town

of Gebel

Dukhan.
a

The
"

upright pillars
106.

granite supported

roof.

Page

The

Roman

town

oi~ Mons
to the built
at

Claudianus, looking
main

south

from

the
stone

way cause-

loading

quarry.

The

round

piles of
"

in the 124.

foreground

are

intervals

along

the causeway,

Page

Pi.,

xix.

V.

THE

QUARRIES

OF

MONS

CLAUDIANUS.

In
a

the

previous chapter
made Dukhan
are

an

account

was

given

of

journey
Gebel

to

the in
to

Imperial porphyry
the be Red month found Sea the of about
at
a

quarries
1907.
score or

of

March
a

These
so

quarries
miles from

of

the

point
end Dukhan

in of I

the the
turned re-

Eastern
Peninsula

Desert of
to

opposite
Sinai.
Nile From

southern

Gebel
of the

the Um

by

way the the

white
Mons

granite
Claudiof

quarries
anus,

of

Etgal,
past

ancient
old

and
to
caravan

thence Keneh.
was

gold workings

Fatireh

My

composed
my

of

riding party
assistant,
my

consisting
servant,
a

of
a

myself, guide
and
a

native the and

a

and camels
was

and

baggage
couple
of

-train

of

dozen

men,

guards.
man,

The whose of the

guide
face desert.

picturesque, ragged
and
was

old
the

was

wizen His

wrinkled decked and

by

glare ing swinghis

camel and

with
across

tassels

of

black

yellow,

n6

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

saddle

there
at
an

was

slung
his side

gun

at

least
a

seven

feet

long, while
sword
there
a

there

hung
case.

broad-bladed In his he form belt

in
were

old

red -leather and in

two

knives,

his in the

hand the

carried of
most
a

stout
-

bludgeon, something
stick. This latter
is

hockey

weapon

and carried by the Ababdeh generally peoples,and its antiquity is evidenced that the earliest

other

desert the
"

by

fact

hieroglyph
Egypt

for

"a
a

soldier

in the

scriptof
just
such The

ancient
a

represents

figureholding
lean, yellow
the He

stick.

old

guide
seemed

was

followed
to

by

three

dogs, who
and
man

be

much

bored

by

journey
was a

dejected by
of
some

the

around. sterility

dignity,and
at

took
the

considerable
little

pride
the and

in

riding
to

the the

head way,

of

procession in
at

order

show

although, except
were

cross-roads,
the Once
so

the

tracks
were

perfectlyplain generally
to to

ancient
or

beacons I made have

be pass

seen.

twice
I

an

attempt

him of

that

might
;

an

uninterrupted
of of
a a

view huddled

the

scenery

for

the

sight
after

ragged,
betasseled But in the

back is

and

the
to

hindquarters pall
in
a

camel these which

heart I
to

inclined ended

while.
race,

efforts
was

short, hard
loser
to
;
nor

generally
the

the
man

had

order

old

the

rear

thereafter.

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

117

We
nearest
soon

set

out

from
to

the

camp Dukhan

at
on

Wady
the

Bileh, the
main the

point
after

Gebel

road,

daybreak,

and

passed along
to

ful wonder-

valley leading Wady

route

back

the

Roman

station

of
our

Gatar, which

I have towards The

already described,
the road south then

branching
that

off

just
led

before
a

reaching
fine

place.
which it
was a

along
went
coat over-

valley, up
and

blusteringnorth

wind
an

whistling, and
could
after the

only by donning
a

by trotting at
to

smart

pace
warm.

that

one

pretend
noon

feel

comfortably
near some

Soon
-

halted
of

thorn
was

trees,

in

shelter
A

which

luncheon

presently
watched
that
us

spread.
our

vulture

circling
but

overhead

party anxiously, in the

would

vain
on

hope seeing

body some-

drop dead,
the

mount

again
It

to

continue
over

journey

it sailed

away

gustedly dis-

the

windy hill-top.
and

was

still cold
for the in The the five

stormy
from

when,

after

trotting
we

altogether
arrived
was

hours of

Wady
where

Bileh,
the

at

well

Um

Disi,
the

camp drink in the

course, water-

pitched
graze.

order well

that

camels
merest

might puddle

and sand

is the

amidst
hidden

smooth

boulders
the

of

dry

under
lies in

overhanging
of
a

cliffs of

granite.
of

It

the
and

corner

wide

theatre amphishut
in

gravel

sand,

completely

n8

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

by
grow and of

the in from

mountains.

Bushes
over

of this the

different

kinds

great
the

profusion
tent

amphitheatre,
eye
was

door,
the

when many-

tired
one

wandering
stare

upon in
a

coloured
at
a

hills,
very

might
of flitted
an

lazy

dream

garden wagtails
It

vegetation,
and the

around

which

the

grey moved. but

dragon-fliesslowly
for
a a

is

ideal
more

place
than
one

camp,

and

one

wished

that there the

night
have and

could
liked

have
to

been

spent

for

would hills

have and

explored
to

surrounding
the
near

valleys,
had

have

stalked

gazelle
the

which

left

their

prints foot-

well.
here
more

The be
some

nights up
1500
or

in

this feet the

which locality, above the

sea,

must
were

cold, in spite of bitterly

There feels here
a

approaching
one more

summer.

is

perhaps
Um
a

no

place where
than the
was

keenly
;

low

temperature Disi,
colder where

in

the is

desert
that than

and the

at

air

of

mountains,
ever

night
endure
some

passed
with
years the ago

it has

been

my
one

lot to

"

exception,
when,
the with

perhaps, of
another upon Desert.
to

occasion
of

student the

archaeology,I spent
hill -tops and
were

night

flint -covered Our

us,

of the
had
to

Western
then failed
our

baggage
and
we

bedding obliged

reach

sleep in
newspaper

clothes

and

overcoats,

dividing

to

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

119

act

as

cover

for
so

the

neck that

and
we

ears.

By
forced
to
;

night midto

we

were

cold

were

dance

kind

of

hornpipe
in

in the

order veins
to

set

the
my

circulation friend this the which

me,
war was

going again
-dance
"

and

light-hearted enough
with
are a

accompany

breathless

rendering
children

of

hymn,
had while of

We been

but

little
into his

meek,"
he told

dinned
at
a

head,
in
scene

staying
Egypt.

mission

school the

another of

part
dark

Memory

recalls

the

figure shuffling and biting

that wind in
not
as was

swaying

in

the

clear
the

starlight,the
rocks does

whistling
;

around and
was

rhythmless accompaniment
seem so

yet

it

much in

discomfort
the

then
tent at

felt Um
The

experienced

flapping

Disi.

journey
the road
a

was

continued
out

early
the

next

ing, morn-

leading
on

from
eastern

amphitheatre
There
was

through
now

gauge

the

side.
of and

some

about difficulty the there

the the of

method way
our

travelling,
as

for with

only
us,

guide
was

knew

he

rode

danger
camels,
us

losing the slowly always

halts
for took every followed

moving
behind,
and
some

baggage catching
of
or

which
our

up

at

luncheon
with
me

other

refreshment.
torn at

I therefore
paper,

bags
the

and

at

turning
down

of

path,

the

cross-

tracks, I threw

120

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

few

handfuls

in

the the in

manner

of here

paper-chase;
from
one

and

thus, though
another

path
the
most

wound

valley to
the
as caravan

perplexing
almost

manner,
as

reached

its destination

soon

we.

It born

was

disappointing to
bred in

find that
were

our

camelmen,

and the

the

desert,

unwilling
that
as

to

take
tracks.

of following safely in responsibility One would have would

an

our

thought
have

the easy
as

prints footfor
torn

of them paper
to

our

camels
on

been

trace
us.

unfrequented path guide,

on

is to
a

The

the

other
of
to

hand,
the

showed

really wonderful
;

knowledge
reasonable Gebel three
routes
or

tricate in-

paths
that he had

for

it is not

suppose and in his the

travelled
more

between
two
or

Dukhan

Um

Etgal
He

than off
not

times

life,this
desert.

being
did when

the
once

main

through
look that here.

hesitate
he

around,
many

although
years In
some

questioned
since

declared
had for been the A

had

passed

last he

these

valleys we
one
or

met,
Bed
and

first time

for

days,
a

two
-

win.
a

ragged figure,
sword,

carrying
sprang
a

battle
from

axe

mediaeval he
to
was

up of
our

the and

rocks, where
hurried The
two tones
;
across

tending
hands
earnest

flock

goats,

shake

with

guide.
in

entered and

into the old

conversation

low

guide,

Mons

Claudianus.

The

town.

"

Pag-e

124.

.^

V^-"*rq?

ft

"

Mons

Claudianus.

Chambers threshold
on

on

the

west

side of
a

of the column

forecourt of
the

oi

the

Temple. portico are

The
seen

and
"

base

granite

the

right. Page

126.

Pl.

xx.

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

121

after

pointing
was

with

his

lean

finger

to

his

bag
in

of

food, which
and his it then
to

every

day

diminishing
dismounted

size,
from

the up

hungry
one

dogs,
the A

camel, tied
over

of

dogs,
few
a

and hours

handed
later

to

his

wild

friend.

another
a

this ragged figure,

time
to

Bishari, carrying
us,

long

gun,

ran

forward
over

greet
second
to

and

to

him
a

the

guide

delivered with

his

dog,

after

similar
over

discussion
a

regard

his
the
mere

food-bag. dog
and

For his
on

mile

from had

this

point,after
to

new

master

diminished

specks
to
us

the

rocks, the
howls of the led
pass, up from

wind of the

brought
former
to

down
and

the

melancholy
song

the

cerned uncon-

latter the
the This

his

goats. Ghrosar, which

a

Our ends view

trot

way

wide

Wady
of which
was

in

top

magnificent
in from
a

is obtained.
of

point
down groups

reached hours

about
Disi.

three
One

and looks

three-quarter
upon of
a

Bir of

Um

great lake

sand, amidst
a

which thousand
on

the

dark dim

granite
ranges

hills rise like

islands, while
all

enclose
basin
a

the

scene

sides.
seem

From
to

this

huge
it

hundred
be
an

valleys
matter

radiate,
for the

and wrong

would

easy lose

to

head
upon

peak
sands.

and

to

oneself
a

the

undulating
rested
for and

Descending
in

smooth of
a

slope,we
group of

luncheon

the

shade

rocks;

122

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

presently mounting
the basin and entered
more

our

camels
a

again,

we

crossed

series of
more narrow

intricate and

valleys,
enclosed

which
as

became

and
on,

the

day
whether

wore

giving

us

good
would

reason

to

doubt
to

our

baggage

camels

manage after
a

follow. of

At

last, in the
under
a

late
hours the

afternoon,
from the

ride

rather

four in

top

of the

Wady
town

Ghrosar,
of Mons

turn

path

brought
view
;

Claudianus
the

suddenly
were

into

and the
one

in

moment

camels

forgotten,and
had carried

wonderfully preserved
back
to

remains the

the

days
Um

of

Emperors

Trajan

and

Hadrian.
The

hills of

Etgal supplied
with for

Rome

with which
was

fine white

granite speckled

black,
purposes
not

deservedly popular
the

building
stone
was

during employed
left
to
a

Imperial
the

age.

The

by

ancient

Egyptians,
to

and

it

was

Roman open here but which

prospector

discover settlement
as

its existence which Mons

was

and founded

to

quarries.
was

The

known
honour

generally
of the with
name

Claudianus,
the well Fons

in

Emperor
water
was

Trajan
was

supplied
and
town.

it

called

Trajanus,
to

this The

sometimes

applied
from
or

the
to

stone
on

was

transported
drawn

here
men,

the
was

Nile

waggons upon

by
at

oxen

and

placed

barges

Keneh.

It

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

123

was

then it it

floated
was

down

the
to

stream

to

the

sea,

where bore Rome. be about

transhipped
the distance

the

galleys
to

which

across

Mediterranean from here

to

the

port of
must

The

the

Nile
us

miles, ninety-five
hours of
;

since

it took

nearly
to

nineteen
cover

five-miles-an-hour

trotting
the

the
were

distance

and,

as

will be the been

seen,

blocks
of

which
enormous

dispatched
size.
It the
must

from have

quarries were
an

easier matter
from

to

transport
to stone

Imperial Porphyry
;

Gebel

Dukhan in that

the
wrere

river
not

for

the

objects
a

executed
to

usually of
But white would In

size

require
often
as

particularlylarge
which
of
were

blocks.
the
one

the

great pillars

cut

from which

granite were
have order

dimensions

regarded
to

prohibitiveto transportation.
the

reduce
were

weight
on

to

the

minimum
to

the
an

columns
inch
or

dressed
their
were

the

spot

within
the
sent

so

of

final

surface, whereas
to

porphyry
in the that
at

blocks

light enough
is the there

be of

down

rough.
Gebel here ate elabor-

This

explanation
was

the

fact

Dukhan
at

but

small
was

town,
far

whereas
more

Um and

Etgal

the

settlement Skilled
as

extensive. Claudianus
as

masons

had

to

live at

Mons
as

well
;

as

quarrymen,

engineers
themselves
certain

well

labourers
had
to

and visit

the the

architects

may

have

quarries on

124

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

occasions. which
an even

If

one

has the
on

admired works one's those Roman these

at

the Gebel

enterprise
Dukhan,
will be

is

displayed in
greater
call
;

admiration who

made realise
make

at

Urn

Etgal
power

and the
to

would

fully
should

the

of way

Empire
distant

their

slow
the

quarries,
of

should

realise
and

enormous

difficulties
for
a

their
that
mere

working,
all whim The

should

think
set

moment

this
of

activity was
an

in

motion

by
and

the

Emperor.
enclosed
in the
a

town,

by

buttressed the
was

fortified hills
A

wall, stands
from

valley between
white
up
to

rocky

which
road

granite
the stand

quarried.
entrance.

broad
the and

leads
of

main various

On

left side
on

this

ruined

houses,
in Over

the the

right

there

is

large
were

enclosure

which
half

transport animals
enclosure
there but
was

stabled.
a

this
numerous

roof, supported
half of stands

by

pillars ;
still contains

the

other line
300

open,

and

line upon which

some

perfectly
oxen or

preserved stalls, at

donkeys
on

could

be

stabled.

Farther

up

the

road,
the

the

opposite side, just

to

before
stands

reaching
the

entrance

the

town,
a

there

house. bath-

One
three
no

first enters

good-sizedhail
stand.
Here the

in which

small

granite tanks
washed

bathers
the

doubt

themselves

before

entering

Mons

Claudianus.

East

end

of the

Temple.

"

Page

126.

Mons

Claudianus,
on

looking
the

over
"

the

town

to

the

Temple

hillside.

Page

126.

Pl.

xxi.

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

125

baths
open.

proper. The small

manner

From first
rooms

this silent
these
were

hall

two
a

doorways
series furnaces chambers of

of

leads

into

three in the
seem

which of
a

heated These

by

Turkish heated the the

bath.
to

to

have

been of

different there

degrees, for
is
a

under

the
or

floor

innermost hot

large
in the

cavity
other pass

cellar
there the there

for
are

air, whereas

rooms

only pottery
behind the

flues, which
In
one

down

walls is
an

plaster.
which
purposes.

chamber
to

arched

recess,

seems

have

been

made

for from the feet of

ornamental the
far hall end and and of

The
a

second

doorway
room,
some

leads which
four

into
a

fine

vaulted

at

plungefive feet

bath,

nine

long
the

or

deep,
lead
walls

is constructed into

bricks

cement.

Steps
in the in which

down around

it from
are

floor

level, and
niches
In

there
or vases

ornamental
have

statuettes

may
was

stood.
to

this tank

the his

Roman hot-air
about here

officer

able
there

lie
an

splashing after
appearance that his
own

bath,
the

and

is

of
he

luxury
could

place

which

suggests
himself in

almost

believe

country.
The
of small

enclosed

town

consists

of
a

crowded
street

mass

houses, intersected
lanes branch of broken

by
to

main and and

from The door-

which

several
are

right
stones,

left. the

walls

all built

126

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

ways of the

are

generally constructed
and

of

granite.

Some

roofing is still intact,

of

is formed

of thin One here the

slabs wanders and dark

granite supported by rough pillars.

from
over

street

to

street,
walls almost look
;

picking
now

way

there

fallen of
some

entering

chambers
now

perfectly preserved
a

house,

pausing
the open

to

through glazed

street

way door-

into of but
on

court

beyond.
blue
to

Large quantities
ware

broken there the The

pottery
did
not

and
seem

lie about,

be many

other

antiquities

surface.

temple
north. in breadth

lies outside
A

the

town

on

the

hillside
some

to

the

flightof
the

ruined

steps,

25

feet
to
a

between
on

balustrades, leads
the broken

up

terrace,
as

which
:

stands "In the

altar,
year of

inscribed
the

follows

twelfth Csesar

Emperor
Egypt, this
the
two
terrace

Nerva
;
was

Trajan

Augustus
Prefect

Germanicus
of of the

Dacicus
altar there

by Sulpicius Simius,
made."
a

At

the

north

end
which

is

of granite portico,
are now

elegant
this
one

columns passes

overthrown.

Through
hall, where
written

into

large four-pillared
which the the XVth marble of the is of

there
"

is another Rufus
;

altar, upon

Annius

Legate by
the

Legion
works

superintending 'Appolinaris,'
of Mons

Claudianus
From

favour the

Emperor

Trajan."

this

hall

sanctuary

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

127

and

other

important

rooms

lead.
now

The

walls

in the
as

various

parts of the

building

only
when

appear

orderly piles of rough stones, neatly covered

which may be
must

but

they

were

with
seen

the in

salmon-coloured the bath-house

most

plaster,
and

where, elseBuilt
is
a

they
into block
one

have
outer

been

imposing. temple
the and there

of the of
stone

walls

of the with disk

decorated of the

well-known

Egyptian
this
seems

symbol
to

serpents
of

and

be

the

only

indication

Egyptian

influence To leads the up

a

in the

place.
of the
town
a

north-east
to

great

causeway

the

main of

quarries, and

half-way along
for
to
some

it lies
reason

huge block
before it

granite, abandoned
been
at

had

dragged
the

down

the

depository below.
lie several
and of
on

Here

foot of the

way cause-

huge
blocks

columns

already trimmed, rough.

marked,
the form Most and of
a

many these
one

smaller
are

left in the
or

numbered

otherwise into

enormous

block, hewn
is written
"

there capital, Nerva The

The

property

of Caesar

Trajan."
well from drew the
near

which their
town.

the
water

inhabitants
lies in
a

of

Mons

Claudianus
a

valleynearly
within
tower to
a some a

mile

from and

It

is
a

enclosed round
tower

courtyard,
25

it stands From

feet

in

height.

this

point

128

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

about
runs
an

quarter

of

mile

from which

the the feet

town water

there
was

aqueduct along
the

evidently sent,
necessary

drop
At
a

of

25

giving
end

it the of the
a

impetus.
there is
a

the

town

aqueduct large
the

building
of
rooms

which

contains

tank

and
of
a

series

something
Here,
of
no

in

nature

small
who
was

barrack. had

doubt,
waterto
see

lived

the

persons and

charge
their full. which the
to

the

supply,
that the

it

probably always trough

each
from

duty
Outside
the

tank
is

was

the

building there
could their their drink. wives

animals
or

One

imagines day

quarryrnen

coming
with
the the the and

the
the
to

tank

to

fill

amphorae

water,
or

and

stablemen
the

leading down
Here,
struck
as

mules

donkeys
at

trough.
one

in with

animal

lines

the

town,
shown the

is the

disciplinedsystem
it
seems

in

arrangements,
was

clear
immediate

that

ment settleof of
true

under

the

eyes

Romans,
Orient.
I first and way record

uninfluenced

by

the

slovenliness

the

saw

these
the

ruins
streets

in the of the

red

light of
No

sunset,
my
can

through
in the the

town

I made words

silence

of

nightfall.
of

strangeness
unbarred

wandering
the

thus of for

through Imperial
so

doorways
Rome,
and

since houses

days

through

uninhabited

many

Mens

Claudianus. into
walls the
wTere

Doorway
in

leading- from
was

the
-

hall bath.

of the

Bath-house the

room

which
"

the 125.

plunge

Originally

plastered. Page

Mons

Claudianus.
The altar

Pedestal

of the broken

altar in

in the

the

forecourt
"

of the

Temple.
126.

itself is

seen

foreground.

Page

Pl.

xxii.

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

129

hundreds sensations first the

at

of

years.
a

It
scene

is difficult to of this sheer kind

describe
arouses.

the At both

which mind

is filled with
newness

amazement

the
at

freshness, the
their

of those

the in
use

buildings,
at

and

similarityto
One
cannot

the

present day.
that eyes But
a so

bring
have

oneself

to

believe
human them.

many

centuries

passed
or

since

looked

dailyupon
door

them
seems

hands
to

touched in the
sees

presentlya
slides relation. have
ocean.

open

brain,
in

screen

back, and
A

one clearly

Time thousand of
water

its true
years, in the these
town
an

thousand of the may these

years,
merest

two

the

value

drop
out

One's which and

hands

reach

and

touch

hands

built

houses,
these

fashioned
This the

doorways,
is not
a

planned
an

streets.

relic of
the

age
or

of

miracles, when
sent
;

old

gods
it

walked
an

earth

their but in

bolts thunderstone

from
stone
was

unremote

heaven

by
way

constructed

by
sounds

men

every

identical
known

with the in

ourselves, whose

brains which

have
we

only
know,

sights
but
a

and

altered
The

few those

details. far-off

fact that
those
we

days

are

so

identical

with the

live in does the

not, however,

speak

to

mind

of of It

changelessnessof things,of
customs.

the

constancy

human

That
our

is

minor

thought.

tells rather
I

of

misconception of

130

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

the

nature

of

Time

it shows standard these before

one sees

how of

difficult human unharmed

remotest

it is to

judge

the In

ages

by

the

ence. experirelics

looking at
ceased

almost
our

of

life which had

English
modern

history
appearance of custom the
town

begun,
is not
as
so

that due
to

their the of

much the Two the

persistence
time
since
a

it is to built.
we

shortness thousand

was

years
to

is not
:

period which
but upon like
one
an

have the

right

call man's

long

it is

hour
"

in A

duration

of ages the this

to

existence
are

earth.
an

thousand
runs

in

thy sight

evening gone,"
that be the but
ages
an

old
town

hymn
was

and built laws

feels

since

must

indeed and
more

evening
have
not

One

whose time

of
to

Decay
show
one

Change
than the
a

found

in them

few

signs of
in in
one

their

working.
of its

As

entered

temple
echoes

the the had

twilight,and
silence
come

aroused

unaccustomed

halls,the
to
a

thought
the had the Past

was

that
;

rudely
son

awaken
race

and,

as

the

degenerate
But of the the when

of the the

that

outlived

its miracles, to
dead.

bring

tidingsthat
newness,

gods
doors the

were

the

freshness the

of of

parts
the
were

buildings, thought
and

had
was

opened only
who

mind,
still

that

gods
think

living
of

mighty long

could

so

lightly

twenty

centuries.

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

131

On

the
notes

following morning
and

busied

myself
the
was

in
;

taking
and The

photographs amongst
noon

ruins struck.

somewhat

before

the

camp

road,

now

leading
main

westwards

towards ride after

we

Keneh,
a

passed

for the
of

part of the
;

along

wide for

valley
about ancient
near

great
and of
a

beauty
a

and

trotting
a

three
quarry

half

hours

passed

small

fine,small-grained, grey
huts the the well
were

granite,
Towards
and
so

which
we

few

grouped.
of
a

sunset

crossed into

brow

hill,

descended

Wady
of that

Fatireh,
name.

where Here

we

camped
is
a

near

the

there

Roman

station

differingvery
It Mons lies from

slightly from
about five and and
press ex-

those
a

already
hours' the thus

described.
trot

half

Claudianus,
for

was

first
on

night's halting-place
the road from that

caravans

town

to

Keneh.
As

darkness

fell I

was

sittingin
to

the

fortress
when
we

questioning the
were

guide
by
saw

as

the

road,
of

both

startled
up
we

the
a

sound

fallingstones,
the the prints foot-

and

looking

large dog-like creature Examining

them
more

disappearing over
afterwards,
marks of
a

the
one

wall.
saw

to
was

be

heavy
of him.

hyaena by

;
no

but

no

heard in the
so

Hyaenas though

are

means

rare

desert,
far

it is not

usual

to

find

them

back

132

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

from desert

the

Nile

as

this.
warn one

In

sleeping
to at
a man

out

in

the
a

travellers say,

be
a

careful, for
foot

hyaena, they
from the

might

snap
as

protruding
take
a

blankets, just
the

might
I do been
not

biscuit

from of

sideboard
who has

but
ever

recollect

hearing
The the

anybody
in the

attacked.

ancient

Egyptians early
farms. in

used
tombs Men
on

to

eat

hyaenas, and
them
seen

scenes

show
are

being flinging
their

fattened
the

up

the

unfortunate

creatures

their

backs,

legs being tied,

their
desert and the throats.
ate

while

others the for

force

down goose-flesh hunter in the

Probably
hyaena-flesh
took

archaic
want

of

other

meat,

custom

hold
;

amongst
for with that

the
proper

sporting

families there be
sat

of
no

dynastic times
reason

feeding
would
as
we

is

to

suppose

the

meat
me,

objectionable.
in the make is
no

The

old

guide
are

told

darkness, that
their

there

several

trappers
and
a

who there

living by snaring hyaenas,

of the animal skin

part
value. is sold under fat
the

which

has

not
uses

marketable
the any

The
as a

has
and

its obvious

skull
house
;

charm,

brings
of which
as

luck
it
a

to

the

threshold
and

is

buried

the and

is roasted
flesh

eaten

great

delicacy;
for down

is also

used

for

eating,and
stewed
to

medical
and

purposes,

certain

parts

being
who

swallowed

by

women

desire

Pl.

xxiii

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

133

produce

family

in

spite

of

Nature's

ness. unwillingnoticed which

are

In several there the

the

neighbourhood
in often of and mines few

of

Fatireh

we

rough workings
were a

the

rocks,
huts.

near

ruined

These

remains

ancient
the in

gold mines,
There

worked
are

by
said and
to

the be
an

Egyptians
many old has

Romans.

this
in

neighbourhood,
recent

attempt
some

been

made

years much

to

reopen In

of

them,

though
the

without XVIII.
of

success.

an

of Dynasty inscription reads of which south

"

(b.c.1580-1350)
desert
on

one

gold
was

the

behind
the Nile
most

Koptos,"
a

city
of metal

situated
;

few the

miles

Keneh
was

and, although
obtained
of from

of

Koptos
of

the

region
will the

Wady
heard may

Fowakhieh,
in have
at
a

which

the

reader
some

have

previous chapter,
been
mined
as

of

gold
Roman

in

the

Fatireh

neighbourhood
in interest here that

that The may

date,

it
is

certainly was
one

times.
I

subject
be

of

such

permitted
of

to

mention the

something
full

of

the the

methods

working
who of

gold employed by
A
account

ancient.
tained obthe

is

given by Diodorus,
from in
as

his
mines which
to

information
are

Agatharcides,
the the Eastern methods

situated
;

Desert
were

farther

the

south

and,

no

134

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

doubt enables hills years The of

similar
one

in

both

districts, the
the
scenes

information
which these

to

reconstruct

Fatireh

looked

down

upon

two

thousand

ago. persons and who

worked

the
war

mines
;

were

mainly
these
of

criminals
there
were

prisoners of

but
men

with

many and

unjustly
who the Pharaoh's this

accused

good

breeding,
action
wrath.

those

had

by
or

some

political Emperor's
was

earned

the of

Frequently
to

class

prisoner
all also No

banished
members

the his

mines,

together with
and these

the
were

of
to

family,
for the
at

obliged

labour
were

king's profit.
the

tinction disthe
were

made all

mines

between and and all

classes, but

suffered
fetters
no

together,

weighed
There
were was

down

with
or

by night
of escape, the

by day.

little

chance

for sentries

posted on
to
a

every chase

and hill-top,

soldiers

were

ready
should
were

give
man

through
the

the

waterless
These and the the

desert

elude

watchman.

soldiers
chances

all of

foreign extraction,
and thus

were

heavy against their understanding

the be

speech
able
of

of
to

prisoners ;
bribed
or

they

were

seldom
a

introduced

into

scheme

escape. The work

was

carried

on

day

after
were

day

without

cessation, and

always

the

labourers

under

the

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

135

eye upon
to

of

merciless
at

overseer,

who

showered In
were

blows order
vided pro-

them

the the

slightestprovocation.
expenses,
no

keep
for

down the
to to

clothes

and prisoners,

often

they possessed
Nor
to
or

not

rag

hide

their
a

nakedness.
time

were

they

allowed
or care

give
forced

moment's In
;

the in bad the

bathing
health ness weak-

of their
were

bodies.
to

good
and fever

they

work
nor

neither
of

of the
cause

extreme

age, of

the
were

sickness, nor
as

infirmities
for the

women,
even

regarded
an

proper

idleness

of
were

hour.

All thereto who

alike

were

obliged to labour,
blows. banished
:

and end

urged
of
a
man

by
had the

many been
same

Thus
to

the these

mines

was

always
with

fettered

and

unwashed,

covered

bruises

and his

he disfiguredby pestilence,

dropped
that

dead

in

chains

under

the

lash
were

of

the

relentless
death

whip.
was

The

sufferingsof
with
a

life

such the of

hailed

joy, and

it

was

dying

alone

who

possessed
Those

single thought
have
seen

happiness.

who face of

the

old

workings
have the known

on

the the heat what

exposed
coldness of the

of

the

rocks, and

the

winter

nights
will wretches that
as

and

intense
realise

summer

days,
poor

alone
must

tortures

these well

have

suffered.
went

One

might

think the

the
we

wind rode

which

moaning

down

valley

along

the

136

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

path

to

the

Nile

still carried
the
utter

the

groans

of

the

sufferers, and
echoed the where huts the

that

whispering despair.
lived and
not

rocks

still
at

cries

of

Looking
the

where

these

people
one

mines the

they laboured,
of
as
a

could

regard

record
to
one

their woe,
tale of

which ago.

Diodorus
Two

makes

known years,
we

us,

long
is not

thousand

may

repeat,

really a period which

;

should

regard
and will

as

long
gape hushed

and

while the

walls
of

stand

upright
The says

mines
not

open,

sound

tation lamen-

be

in these the hard

valleys.
was

rock

from
was

which
very

gold
;

obtained,
the

Diodorus,
it

but

miners which
When

softened
it could it
set
overseer
was

by lighting fires
be

under the of

it, after
hands.

almost thus

broken

with

prepared, thousands
it with
iron their

prisonerswere
the the

to

breaking
directed
To

tools, while
towards

labours
of

veins

of
were

gold.

the
and with

strongest
with

the

men

iron wielded
were

picks
skilfully un-

given,
and

these, though

great labour, they

The

made

to

attack

the

hillside.

following galleries,
so

the

veins,
of
a

twisted
few and

and
feet

turned,
there
reason was

that

at

the of

depth

no

glimmer
miners
forehead. the

daylight ;
carried
As the
a

for

this

the
to

each

small
of

lamp
quartz

bound
were

their

blocks

broken

by

picks

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

137

they
of the and
were

were

carried

to

the

surface
constant

by

the

children

captives,who
down then the dark

formed

procession up
These

galleries.
up

fragments
and

gathered
mortars,
in

by
the

youths

placed
pounded
into then

in

stone

which

they
ore was

were

with

iron of
over

pestles until
the
to

broken
ore
was

pieces
handed it in
This

size
women

of

peas. and

The old
men,

who

placed powder.

hand-mills,

and

thus

ground placed

it to
a

powder
a

was

then of the

upon

sloping
over

surface, and
it which left the
was

stream

water

was

poured
stone

carried

away

particlesof
process all

but

gold

in

position.
and the

This until

of

washing
and

repeated
eliminated Other

several

times,

foreignmatter
pure the

was

gold

dust

became

bright.
after
an

workmen

then

took

dust, and,
it into
a

measuring
of

it

they poured carefully,

;

earthenware

crucible

and

having

added

small the
a

quantity
vessel
furnace this

lead, tin,salt,and
a

bran, they closed

with

lid, and tight-fitting

space of
was

placed
At
to

it in
end

for the the the be

five
set

days.
aside
to

the

of
on

time

crucible
lid it
was

cool, and
pure

removing
ready
To
one

found the

contain

gold

to

dispatched to
witness
to

Treasury.
of

bear

the
mortars

accuracy and old

this

account

sometimes
the

finds
ruins of

hand-mills

lying

amidst

the

mining

settlements.

138

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

At be
not

the

mines

of of

Urn

Garriat

there here

are

said

to

thousands
a

these
be have
;

mills, and
found.
been of

at

Fatireh

few

are

to
ore

Sluices observed
the

for in

washing
some

the the

crushed
old

of

workings
exist
at

and

smelting
and of

crucibles

remnants

Um

Garriat is known
in

elsewhere.
the methods

Practically nothing employed by they

of the
cannot

the have

Egyptians
differed very There

earlier

days,

but

greatly from
seems reason

those
to

Roman that less

period. days
of

pose sup-

cruelty
the
an

existed callous
account

in

dynastic
;

times
in

than

in

the

Romans will be

and

the
a

following chapter
a

given

of L
in

temple, a well, and

benefit
of the

town

built who

by King Sety
were

for the

persons

engaged

mining. goldThe

night spent
a

at

Fatireh

was

again bitterly
a

cold, and

violent
and pegs

wind
:
a

necessitated
form any of that

tussle
as

with

tent-ropes
in the

exercise

ing annoyin the of of

daytime

as

exists, and
A
to

shivering night-time unspeakable.

hours' the

couple
the
end

riding

next

day brought
country
and into for several

us

mountainous
the first time
a

the the the

force
were

open
sun

desert.

For
down

days
but full

streamed
north
as we

from

cloudless
to

sky,
in

strong
;

wind trotted

continued
over

blow

and

the

level

plainswe

half- blinded

Mons of

Claudianus.
the town. above

large granite
back
the
"

column

lying- to
town
are

the

north-east
behind
at

The which hills.

wall

of

the

is

seen seen

the

column,
of
the

Temple
127.

buildings

the

foot

granite

Page

Mons

Claudianus.
a

Large
west

granite
of the

columns
town.
"

lying
Page

at

the

foot

of

quarry

127.

Pl.

xxiv

The

Quarries

of

Mons

Claudianus.

139

by
rose

the

stinging
a

sand. of

The

peaked

hills behind before

us

us

from

sea

tearing sand,
low,
could catch of the

and

in

the

distance which

rose

undulating clay mounds,

a

beyond
limestone the

one

glimpse
Nile mounds

of

the

cliffs

so

typical
crossed
maze

valley.
and

In scended de-

afternoon

we

these of

into
we

very

hillocks,amidst
mounds of whose
we

which
met
a

camped.
of

Amongst
the

these purpose Our

couple
was

Bedwin,

presence the low

entirely obscure. greetings began

to

guide exchanged
and then in
a

usual voice trotted

with talk

them,
of

the

miserable
his camel.

dog

which he
at

dejectedly
to

behind

Again
food, and
the

pointed

his

almost fastened

empty
a

bag
rope

of
to

last dismounted,

creature's

neck,
howls

and

handed
to
us

it to
on

the the

Bedwin.
wind
as we

The
rode

usual
wards, on-

floated
but

the any

high spirits of
further

the

guide

at
a

his
real

freedom

from
to

was responsibility

pleasure

witness. the

Early
Roman hours' rather

in

following morning
of

visited
some

the

station
trot
more,

Greiyeh,
Fatireh, Keneb,
out

which

lies

seven

from from

and and from

about
was

six
thus

hours,
the
or

or

first
the

night's halting-place
second from
a

the The in

Nile,
station which

Mons

Claudianus.

is, as
several

usual,

rectangular enclosure,

140

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

rooms

are

constructed. the animal

Particularly
lines,
which
consist of has of stalls been

well lie of
to

served pre-

are

the

west

of
in

the which

station.
fourteen either side

They
rows

yard court-

are

built,
a

while with far

down roof is

there

shed Not small

supported
the ancient

by

row

pillars.
in
a

away

well,

enclosed

compound.
This is the last

of
the one's

the ancient reach. the

Roman world The flat

stations,
seemed

and
to

having slip
set

passed
out

it,
of
trot

back
at

camels
and of

were

hard

over

now

burning
Keneh As the

sand,
were

and
in of

by sight
the

noon

the

distant above
the

palms mirage.
and
more

floating
town

houses in

grew

more

distinct
of

the

dazzling
work
came

sunlight, hurrying
and

the
to

practical
mind
;

concerns

one's
and

and

in

times

trains,
its

baggage
of

bustle,
faded the
away

the

quiet
as

desert,
some

with

ghosts
dream

Rome,
when

fades

wonderful

sleeper

wakes.

VI.

THE

TEMPLE

OF

WADY

ABAD.

The have known

small
here
to

shrine
called

in the

the

Eastern of

Desert,

which

I is

Temple
as

Wady Temple
miles

Abad,
of
or

Egyptologists
it
on

the

Redemore

siyeh, although
from the which been

is

thirty-seven
the

village
bears the

Nile,
name.

five

miles

above
seems

Edfu,
to

that

Redesiyeh
which

have

point

from

Lepsius,

the

German
set
name

archaeologist,and
to

other shrine

early
;

travellers hence the

out

visit

the

desert

and

of this

wholly unimportant
nobody
has

village was
to

given
find
one

to
more

the

ruin, and
suitable.
El

bothered the
"

By
"

the the

natives

building
since

is

called situated
seem

Kaneis,
in the

Chapel

and

it is

well-known
to

Wady
call
it the

Abad,
"

it would
or

most

natural of

Chapel,

Temple,
and
what the

Wady

Abad." have
to

Modern been with

prospectors
to

mining engineers Redesiyeh

fact that
an

puzzled
the

know and
a

has

do

place ;

old

German

antiquarian

half

142

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

century

ago

collected without the word

his

camels

at

that

village
they

being wholly
have

to significance

them,
a

regarded
and of

Redesiyeh
and
have of

as

probable
to

corruption of Rhodesia,
amazement

spoken,

the

confusion
Rhodesia in

the

uninitiate, of
the

the

Temple

the

hills of

Upper

Egyptian
The the of father the

Desert.
was

shrine of

built

by King Sety
the
to

I.

1300), (b.c.
the benefit various

Rameses

Great,
and Sea
;

for

miners
near

passing
the modern Red

from and

the the

gold
hears

mines
from that
as

story

one

the

engineers, which
was

vaguely by King
at

relates

the
a

temple
to

erected
son,

Ptolemy
this

memorial his
return

his

who

died

spot

on

from

the the
were

mines, does
brilliant

not

require consideration.
of

During
mines
of

reign

Sety
which

I. and

the the

gold
shrine

energetically
upon
was

worked,
to

produce
was

those built

the

road

this

intended
of
180

especiallyfor
the

the

upkeep temple
of

and
at

ornamentation

king's great by
the river old
Sea

Abydos, Wady
between say for
at

about

miles
are so

north

the

Abad. the

There

many Red

gold workings
that
were
one

river

and

cannot

definitely
stopped

where
to

Sety's
a

miners
to

bound

who

offer

prayer
one

the say

gods

this

wayside
the

shrine,

but

may

certainlythat

Edfu,

f-^
The Roman station from
the

of

Abu

Gehad.

Some

of the

rooms

as

seen

court,

looking- west."

Page

152.

Front

view

of the

Temple

of

YVaclv

Abad.

"

Page

155.

Pl.

xxv

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

143

old

Apollinopolis Magna,
the It

and cities

El

Kab,

the

old

were Eileithyiaspolis,

from
to

which
state

they
that

set

out.

will, perhaps, be
on

best

Edfu Aswan

stands and
"

the
"

Nile

about

half-way
520

between above

Luxor that from El

i.e., about
Kab

miles
some

Cairo

and

is situated
The

10

miles
enters

down-stream
the about Sea
crow

Edfu.

Wady
the

Abad shrine

desert
35 coast

exactlyoppositeEdfu;
miles
east

stands Red the

of
100

that
miles

town

; and east

the
as

is about

farther

flies.
Towards the end
were

of

March

1908,
the

when

the

hot

south the full

out sea, to

winds
and

driving
trains
from

tourists
to

towards
were

the

Luxor and

Cairo

overflowing, the
train

writer

his

wife

set

in the
an

southwards oppositedirection, travelling

as

in

empty
of

far

as

the

little

wayside

station the carry desert

Mahamid,
of and El
our

the

nearest

stopping-placeto
which
were

ruins
us

Kab. camp
us

The
to

camels

to

Sety's temple
the of

in

the

were

awaiting
an

upon

rounded platform, sur-

by
The
caravan,

admiring throng according

out,
was

native
were

loafers. mately ulti-

to to

orders consist
an

which of
ten

carried and
men

baggage
of camel-

four

riding camels,
the that

and

assortment
a

under double

leadership of
number of

Shekh

but

more

than

camels

lay grunting

144

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

in the station. and been

sent
a

sunlight
This

as

the
due camel

hot
to

train the

panted into
fact that
a

the rival
not

was

more

wealthy
to

proprietor,who
on

had

invited
few

do
to

business
the

this

occasion,
on

had

camels

rendezvous
this
move

the the

chance chosen of

of their

being required,and
by
The the

proprietor met
his
at

doubling eloquently
to
a

of

the
was

number

camels.
the

disappointed
and

owner

himself upon
of
one

station,
of

dilated Shekh

the

danger
that

trusting oneself
In the

inferior reads
the
"

standing.

infallible

'Baedeker'
"

for this

journey
the the is

it is necessary
of in the

to

secure

protection of
and words

Shekh

Ababdeh
these of

tribes
ominous

though
appear in

edition
a

which
out
a

few

years

date,
who

one

realised
not

what

dilemma

traveller
found

did

know

the it
me

country might

have
even

himself.

The

Shekh,
to

appeared,
at

had

telegraphed his
;

warning
been it

the

last moment
a

but

this

having
which

reallythe
that
words of
at

last of
he
to

short

series of cards
it did
not

seems

had soothe

played,
matters

require
normal

many

into

the

condition in

hullabaloo
the

which
of
a

everywhere
caravan.

prevails
wards, south-

Egypt
The

departure
at out
seen

baggage
we

last towards

being dispatched
the ruins in the of El

set

Kab,

which

could

be

shimmering

heat- haze

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

145

few

miles

away. into
to

It the Aswan. the

was

our

purpose thence

to

ride to
back
was

Edfu, thence
Edfu be and
on

desert, and
The

to to

first of

ni^ht
the

spent

under

ruined

walls it did

ancient

and city of Eileithyiaspolis,

to trot to

not

take

long
lowed, folsome

the

camping-ground by
of the
route to

the

river-side.
we

Here,

in I

explanation
must

which
enter

be

permitted
in

into El

details archaeological and

In who

connection

with

Kab

Edfu. archaic

days, when
like

the

great Hawk-chieftains
at

glimmer,
before
stood
a

pale stars,
the
west

the

dawn in

of

history were Egypt

there

consolidatingtheir conquering city on

which
"

power

Upper valley,
river,,
known,

whole bank

Nile
of
was

the

the

opposite El Kab,
as

in later

times

Hieraconpolis,
the

the

city of
the

the

Hawks."
and
"

This; here
the
was

was

earliest

capitalof Upper Egypt,

that of and

it

is

probable
and

great king Mena,

a

Fighter,"the
born the

first Pharaoh This

united
his father

Egypt,

bred.
of of

king
and
was

conquered
a

whole

Egypt,
wealth

for that

conquest
even

certain
in For
arts

amount

necessary,
as

those this

days

when

might
and
were

was

good
reason

as

money. that the

purpose,

for

the

of

civilisation
mines of the

already

in

practice, began
to

the

gold

Eastern

Desert
K

be worked,

146

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

This
on

industry led
east

to

the the

establishment river

of

station

the

bank miners and

of

opposite the capital,

where the be

where
caravans

the

might foregather,and
escort

their

of

soldiers

might
became mines

collected.
As order

larger deeds
of the and
was

and

wider

actions
so

the
were

Pharaoh's the number

day,
of before
as

the

extended
and grew In it

workmen station
as

increased
at

not
a

long

the

El

Kab

into

city almost
XII. stands

large
this

the wall

metropolis.
was

Dynasty
from

(b.c. 2000)
to

built
to

around

it, which

day,

in

order ally Graduthe

protect it

incursions
were

from

the desert.

great temples
now

erected
and

here, and
as

city,
the

known

as

Nekheb
of the

later

Eileithyiasin

polis, was
world.
The

one

busiest

centres

ruins

of the One

old caravanserai
may pass

are

of wonderful the in the

narrow

interest.

through
and graze,

doorway
area

of the
once

fortified enclosure, and

the
a

silent

where

soldiers

miners
one

camped,
feels
pletely com-

and

where
shut

now

few

goats
the world
one

off from

of the almost and

present day.
to

The

dark

walls
one

rise around
may where

their

full the

height, and slopingramps days.

Here

still ascend
the
are

descend
in the the

sentries the

paced
of

olden

there

ruins

temple

The

Temple
square

Wady pillarwas
architrave.
"

of

Abad. built in

The

east

end

of

the

Portico.
to

The
the

Grsco-Roman 155.

times

support

broken

Page

The

Temple

of is

seen

Abad. Wady smiting-a

The

east

wall

oi' the
"

Portico.

The

king

group

of negroes.

Page

156.

Pl.

xxvi.

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

147

where

the
one

vulture-goddess
sees

was

worshipped
of

and

yonder
In the

the

mounds

potsherds, bricks,
a

and corn-grinders, side

one

all the
a

debris

of

forsaken
the of

town.

of

hill

which the

overlooks

great
in and

ramparts
which here
one

observes the

long

row

tombs
;

the
in

princes of

district

were

buried the
a

the

on biographical inscriptions

walls brave

reads

of many

feat

of

arms

and

many

adventure. The hills if of

one

the

desert walks
that

recede eastwards

in

kind
the back miles
was

of

bay
town

here, and
one

from the five

presently sees
an

there the

is,at
range,

of the
or

bay,
from this

outlet
river

through
and the

so

the

enclosure. which
the

It

through Egyptians
that the the

natural
"

gateway,
Mouth in

ancient

called
caravans

the

of

the

Wilderness,"
into

passed
;

early days
this the
from There

great
were

desert

and

once

through
off

doorway they
green is
;
a

immediately
and rock the all its which

shut

Nile

valley
isolated

busy
stands and
to

life.

great

in the

bay
were

and

in its shadow
to

miners

soldiers
the

wont

offer

their

last prayers their Here

names

gods
the of

of

Egypt,

often of

inscribing
the
stone.

upon reads

smooth

surface

one

priests, scribes,
of

caravan-

conductors, soldiers, superintendents mines,

and

the

gold
were

all

manner

of

who officials,

148

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

making
see

the

desert

journey,

or

who

had

come

to

its In

starting-point.
XVIII.

Dynasty
a

Amonhotep

III.
to

(b.c.1400)
which
the and
one

erected
may walk

graceful
or

little
from

temple here,
El the of

ride

out

Kab

over

level,
may of

covered gravelstand
the
was

surface
at
on

of

desert,
the

amazed

the

freshness

colouring

paintings

its wall.

Another and
a

little shrine
half
was

built, close
in

by,

century
a

later

and

Ptolemaic
Thus
one

times

third

temple
by
from
were

structed. con-

is surrounded the

shrines this

as

one

sets

out
:

over

hills away
the

land
to to

of

shrines
one,

it is
and

as

though
solemn
on

gods

loath
out

leave

in

company way.

came

speed
The

the
road

traveller which

his

the

gold

miners

trod

passed
the

through
south-east
started

the
;

hills, and
and

then

turned

off towards
the road

presently
or

it met
from has

which

from

Edfu,

rather
as

Contra

Apolten

linopolisMagna,
miles
of

which,
El

been
was

said, is
also
as
a

distant

from

Kab.
was

Edfu famous

city

great
at

antiquity, and
the
dawn of

the

place
Hawk-

where

Egyptian history the worshippers

into of

tribes
who

overthrew afterwards

the

Set, the
Satan.
and

god
The

degenerated
which
now

great

temple

stands

there,

which

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

149

is the
was

delight of
upon

thousands the ruins had of been The of

of visitors earlier

each

winter,
where the

built hawk

temples

the

of of

Edfu

worshipped
record of
a

since
tax

beginning
on

things. reign
was

levied

Edfu

in the that of in

Thothmes
in

III.

(b.c.1500) gold,
that
at

shows

it

mainly paid
;

solid
sees

stead inthe

kind
was

and

one

thus

precious metal
time

coming
Abad
routes.

into the

country
as

that
was

along
all

the

Wady
great

route,
Edfu in may

indeed
was

it

along

the

the

main
when the the the

starting-point for Sety

fact I. built that the his

the

mines if of in Kab
one

the

days
from

temple,

judge
one

hawk-god
worshipped
of in El

that
the has

city is

of

chief

deities

shrine, while

vulture-goddess
place
was

only
the

secondary
Edfu
use.

there

and
the the

Roman
one

times
in

road

perhaps
This
was

only
route

general
was

which

selected

for El

our

journey
we

and

after

spending

the the of of

night
east

at

Kab,
of the

rode
to

next
a

morning along
at

bank

river

point

the

mouth
town

the

Wady
where

Abad,
the

opposite the picturesque pylons

cluster
swim
two

Edfu,
and

shoot

up

to

the

blue
and
a

sky
green
trot

dominate
A
ing morn-

the

of brown in the
was

houses

trees.

river, and
sufficient

of somewhat for the

over

hours,

exercise

first

day

150

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

and

the

afternoon collected
beasts down

was

spent
food the

in for

camp, the
to

while

the and

camelmen led their

the
to

journey
drink.

river
soon

On
we

the

following morning,
our

after
out
over

daybreak,
the A larks trotted the hard

mounted
and wind

camels towards the

and

set

sand cool

gravel
blew

the

sunrise.
the
we

fresh,
were

from their

north, and
as

already singing
the

first songs,

up

wady.
the
:

The

brisk
out

morning
into
record the

air,

willing
of of the

camels,
desert

setting
shall who

freedom charm the

how

one

the in

it ?
can

Only

those

have

travelled
of

desert
: a

understand

the

joy

returning
has

there
one

joy

which,
that
and in

strangely enough,

only
to
some

equal, and
to
or

the
to

pleasure of returning
trees

water,

flowers,
weeks for

after

spell of
Here

days
are
no

the

wilderness.
are no

there newspapers

cares,

there
no

posts
for there

nor

here

there continual
man,

is

fretfulness,
;

one

is
is
no

taking

almost

exercise

here

irritation, for
here there in is
no

the

arch-irritant, is absent
and from

debility
strength
But
ever

fag, for
the

one

is

drinking

renewed

strong
that and
assume

conditions

around. in the eyes

a

enthusiasm, life, shines

one's actions

splendid jewel
before glitters
a

ring
;

of all

one's

and
com-

broader

and

happier

The

main

entrance west

of the from inside

Roman the

station enclosure.
"

of

Abad, Wady Page 164.

looking

The

pilesof

stone

erected

opposite

the

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

"

Page

164.

Pi..

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

151

plexion.
world,
A well and
trot

The

desert
one

is the

breathing-space
breathes
and
us

of the

therein of
as

truly

lives.
to
a

about Bir of

two

hours The

brought
well

the

known

AMd. brackish

is but around

small,
a

stagnant
few four Heraz Some
area,

pool
grow.

water,
are

which

trees

There
a

six

acacias, three
tree

or

small

palms,
the

curious
and made
met

dead-looking
a

called shrubs.
a

by

natives,
has has been
not

few
to

desert

attempt
but this

cultivate
success,

small the

with

and

native the in

farmers offers
we

have
a

departed.

The

sand

under here

acacias
the shade

welcome
for
a

and resting-place,

sat

while, listening to
the
trees

the
to

quiet shuffle
the

of of

the

wind

amongst

and

singing
with

the
sand

sand-martins.
an

While

playing
was

idly

the

objectionable
natives
call
a

insect

uncovered,

which
It in

the
a

"groundabout

gazelle."
an

is

fat, maggot-like
a

creature,

inch
to
or

length, possessing
those of
an

pair
It
runs

of

nippers

similar its

earwig.

fast upon

six

eight legs, but,

whenever

possible,
into
the be be

it

buries
A
more

itself

by wriggling backwards
insect the
one

sand.

loathsome
;

could

not

well
to

agined imno

and, since

species
will

is said

by

means

uncommon,

not
as

delve
one

with
lies in

the the

fingers so

readily in

the

future

152

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

shadow hour's

of

the

trees.

A the

ride

of

about

half
a

an

duration known

along
as

valley and
station

past

Shekh's
to

tomb,
rained tomb.
and

Abu

Gehad,

brought
named of
a

us

the this

Roman

fortified

after

It is much

like other enclosure One

stations in which
enters

this date,
few the bers cham-

consists
are

of

an

to

be
open

seen.

from

west, there
was

and is
a

in the cemented

area

forming
in which
a

the

courtyard
of water south The

tank
use

supply

stored
the

for the

of travellers.

wall from

of the

enclosure

to

this

day
some

looks

formidable

outside, still standing

and side

twelve broken
are

feet in
stones.

height,
On
this
building, out-

being solidlybuilt
of the

of

station
may

there have
a

traces

of

an

which In the main

been block

the of of

animal

lines.
was

enclosure the

sandstone the

found

bearing
"heretic
to

cartouches

Pharaoh

Tutankhamen the
seems

(b.c. 1350), one king" Akhnaton,

been this
Edfu of

of the
and

successors

of it

by
which

its form

have
at

part spot.

shrine
road the

perhaps
El Kab may
a

had here
have

stood

The and of the of

from Pharaoh

joins the
marked

route,

the

meeting
at

the

ways

by

little

wayside temple
offer
In
a

which
the when

gold
the

miners
wilderness.
was

might

prayer

to

gods
mines

Roman

days
the

this station
no

built

it is the

probablethat

gold

longer formed

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

153

main

objective of
road.

the

caravans

which

passed along
to
tation ornamen-

this

Emeralds,
were

almost
now

unknown deemed
;
an

the

ancient

Egyptians,
of

worth Gebel

and

beauty
which route, It

and
are

the
most

emerald

mines

of

Zabara,
this

easily

approached
worked these the
from
on

along
the that of
to

were

vigorously
on

by
mines

Romans.

was

his

way

to

Cailliaud
I. There

in

1816
was

discovered
also of used
a

temple
Edfu the

Sety
the

road

Grseco-Roman
which
was

port
much

Berenice
at

Red
and
met

Sea,
stations

this

period ;
are

similar
at to

to

that

of Abu

Gehad
for

to

be

with

fairly regular
the
coast. two

intervals

the

whole

distance

Trotting on
we

for another the

hours of the

and

quarter,
a

camped
-

under

rocks
to

Gebel
A

Timsah,
head

well
rock

known

landmark
the

travellers.

of

projectsinto
of the

level for of

valley,and

upon

it the

people
set

desert

untold

generations have

up

small
must

heaps
have

stones, the
connected
were

originalidea
with
sooner

of

which

been
tents

religious

worship.
than them
a

The of and
A

two

no

pitched
one

gale

wind,
almost

suddenly rising,tore
succeeded
of dust all
not

of

down,
other.

in overthrowing sand

the
the

tempest
and
one

and

beat
a

in at

doorway,
that

covered

things
where

with
to

brown
nor

layer, so

knew

turn

154

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

how

to

escape.

Fortunately, however,
it did
not

like
;

all
a

things violent,
calm,
The which about
out
was soon

last

for

long
the

and

starlit
distance
was

night
from

followed. Gebel Timsah

may of
to

temple
in
set

our

destination
and sunrise
a

be

covered
We

an

hour after

half
;

trotting.
between

and

presently a
perhaps
from

low
two

ridge
piles
Roman

crossed,
beacons
to

the

path passing
set
;

or

of mark

stones,
the road

up and
seen,

in

days

this

point
bushes
in
a

wide, flat valley could

the

be

stretchingbetween
with

low

hills,and
Over

much the

overgrown

and cool
bluif

brambles.

plain
in
was

we

jogged
to

the

morning air, directing the

of
us,

camels

high guide
Soon

rock the

in

the of
came

east,

which,

the

told
a

temple

Sety

excavated.

Roman

fortress
to

into the rocks.

at

sight, and
the the

later

we

were

able

discern
the

portico of Slowly
last
we

temple
features

sheltering under
became
at
more

distinct,and
of the the

dismounted up the

the
to

foot

cliffs and

scrambled

slope
It
who and be

explore

picturesque shrine.
of
in

is strange
have

that

the

many

Egyptologists
It may
which
assume

travelled

Egypt, only two, Lepsius

visited
of

GolenischefF, have
that
the
statement

this
old

spot.

the

Baedeker,
tribes
"

says

that

the

wandering

Ababdeh

INSCRIPTIONS
THE

AND

DRAWINGS OF
WADY

IN

AND

NEAR

TEMPLE

ABAd.

i,
2.

6,

7.

North of

face

of

cliff,east
east

of

Temple.

"

Page

158.

Facade
Two

Temple,
of

side. similar

3.

examples Temple.

five

inscriptions,

on

cliff

east

of

4.

On
Face On

face of face

of

cliff

just
of

west

of

Temple.
"

5. 8.

cliff,west
of cliff of

Temple.
east

Page
"

163. Page
162.

just

of
west

Temple.
side.

9-14.

Facade
16. East

Temple, pillar
Portico.
"

15,
17.

South-east wall of

of

Portico.
"

Drawings
i?i red

in

red

paint.

Drawings

paint.

Pl.

xxviii.

^z^2^"*^

rgrn^

PF3r77

t
3

Pl.

xxviii.

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

155

hostile
the

attitude

"

to

travellers, has
;
or

confined the

them

to

banks of
to

of the

Nile

perhaps
camel

reported
induced the

antics
them For

the leave

much-maligned
unvisited this

have of

pearl

past.
be

that

matter,
upon the
at

however,
back of

the the

place might

reached

patient
for the
one

ass,

there
few this the of

being
years,

water at

Bir

Abad,
itself.
best

and,
When

last
sees

the

temple
of the
one

building, one
Egyptian

preserved
at to

of

all lack

temples,

is amazed

the
be

enterprise which
A have few
seen

has

caused unvisited
and

it for

uncared years. alone figured diswish

for, unprotected, and

all these

mining
the its walls

engineers
shrine with
;

prospectors

and, since
names,

they
one

have could

their
at

that The

they

too

had

stayed

home. of
a

little

temple
the

consists

rectangular hall being supposed pillars, though

the

excavated
to

in

rock, the
four
are

roof

be

supported by
also
there the far

square

in
At

reality these
the

part
three
are

of

living rock.
in In which of of

end
of there upon One

are

shrines

the this which

statues

gods
a

carved.

front
roof

hall
rests

is

built

portico, the
with the driven

four
enters

columns from and of

lotus -bud
up

capitals.
slope
passes of

north, sand,

the
so

fallen the

stones

and

into

shade

the

portico. Through

156

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

hole

in

the

roof, where
may look
up

slab the

of

stone

has

fallen which

in, one

at

towering

rocks
a

overhang

the

building. Then, doorway,

rock-cut whole Both
one

through
passes
one

beautifullyornamented
the dimness of the

into may hill the

hall, where

be
rests

conscious
above

that
ones

the head.

height
this with the

of

the
and

hall

portico are
and in the been the in the wonder
scenes

richly decorated
inner
at

coloured
one

reliefs,
stands
in has in

portions of
the

temple
of all the

brightness
are seen on

colours
It

which
that of the

sides.

said

brilliancyof
III.
at

the

painting
Kab has

temple
;

Amonhotep
here
held the

El

is

prising sur-

but

it is still

fresher, and

even

more

admirably
We
see

its

own

against
in the

the

assaults
down his of
as

of time. negro Amen he the

Pharaoh

smiting
watch
to

and
Ra

Asiatic
and Horus

enemies
of the Edfu

presence him

; we ;

makes eye

to offerings

gods
the

and

the

ceiling
with

is attracted which

by
colours
the

great
hover

vultures
above
more

spread wings
in

there

one,

picted de-

radiant
with

rendered and the in

radiant

by
of

contrast

browns In

the

yellows
at

the
of

scenery the hall

outside.
the

niches

the

end

gods

sit
been

serenity; and,
damaged
almost
there

though beyond

these

figures have

recognition by

pious Musslemans,

ARCHAIC

DRAWINGS
NEAR TEMPLE

OF

SACRED OF
WADY

BOATS ABAD.

ON

ROCKS

i, 3.

2,

4,

5,

8,
of

9.
two

North

face

of

cliff, rocks,

east

of

Temple.
of of

"

Page
"

157. 157. 157.

Smaller

large
of
two

fallen fallen

east

Temple. Temple.

Page
"

6,

7,

10.

Larger

rocks,

east

Page

Pl.

xxix.

(-/Cjj
Pl.
xxix.

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

157

still still

clings
one

around find that

them

their

old

majesty,
in
to
a

and

may
so

something
almost
the

solemn pays heed that

their the
man

attitude,

one

warning
must

inscribed
twice where be asked

on

doorway

be

purified before they

why
sit.

entering
selected
on

the

little

sanctuary
It may his the

Sety
that

this the is not

spot for
route at
once

temple, for, except

mines, the
The
reason

it lies

to

for its location

apparent.
seek.

explanation, however,
bluff of rock has
a

is not smooth

far to

This surface

great
on

like cliffearliest
it has

its north
for those of

side, and
the

for the

travellers, as
cast
a

present
one

day,

welcome

shadow siesta the

in

which

might
scratched many

take
or

the

midday
on

in comfort.

Here,
are

chiselled

rock,

there

very from

ings drawand

which
even

undoubtedly
boats in

date Numerous

archaic,

times. prehistoric,
curious
are

representations
their
to

of

seen,

and them

character

one justifies

supposing
in of

be times

the

sacred
an

arks

which

formed

ancient

such

essential In most contained with

flail

part
of these

Egyptian
one

religious ceremonial.
sees

vessels

the

shrine
a

which

the

god,

and

in

one

drawing
an

figure
being

raised, before

which

animal Min

is

sacrificed, is certainly the

god
few

himself, the
and

patron

of the

desert.

animals

figures

158

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts,

are

also

drawn,
in
or near

and

when the

human

beings
arms

are

sented represhown of

arks

their

are

held

aloft

in

the

regular Egyptian
that, from

attitude

worship.
Thus it
seems

being
had
at

place to early

rest

and
times

to

dream become
a

in, the
sacred
down

rock

already in
which

archaic
man

spot,

bowed
the ark

himself
of Min. it seems, mines

before

the

representations
until

of

From from
were

this
the
not

period
of used.

Dynasty

XVIII.
that

lack much

here, inscriptions

the

Amonhotep
South upon
at out

III., however, here, whose

rocks
at
near

sent name,

his

Viceroy
and his

of the

Merimes,
;

is written

the

the

temple

temple
is
a

El

Kab,

the of

beginning
his

of the
in

route,
the

further

tion indicaJust

interest had built

gold workings.
near

as

this
at

king
"

his

temple

the
so

sacred

rock

the

Mouth
a

of the

Wilderness,"
to

Sety I.,
erect

following half
shrine
the
at

century
of this

later, decided
more

his

the

foot

distant

sacred

rock,

half distance
the

having

been

already adventured
Tutankhamen. Since ride from
;

by
the Edfu

intermediate

Pharaoh
a

place was
and El

just about
Kab,

day's express
was

its situation
was
no

convenient
head
so

and,
in

moreover,

there

other

of

rock
a

the

neighbourhood
a

which

offered

fine

position for

rock

temple.

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

159

In

the

inscriptionsnear portion
of the of the
are

the

mouth

of

the
to

cavated ex-

shrine, Sety caused

be
;

recorded
and

the of
:
"

story
this

building
sufficient

of

the

temple
to

parts
here

of

interest

be

quoted
In
season,

the

year

(b.c.1304), day.
as see

the

third
! his

month

of the

third the his is

the

twentieth far
to

Lo

majesty inspected
the

hill-country as
heart desired Now

the the his

a

region
mines

of

mountains,
which gone the
out

for

from had

gold
from
to

brought.
Nile counsel without

when made heart It

is

majesty
on

the take way

is

valley, he
with
water

halt he for

the

road, in order
"

his
!

; and
so

said,
a

How

evil is the whose mouth shall and

traveller be

parched. quench against

of their his

How

shall
"

his for

throat the

cooled, how
is far cries
!
"

he the

thirst ?
vast.

lowland

away,
out to

highland
a

is

The

thirsty man
Make make that haste for

himself counsel for in serving premy

fatal needs. them

country.
I will
so

let
a

me

take

them
will

supply
God had

alive,

they
after

thank

name

in

after
in

years."
his
to
own

Now,

his

majesty
; and

spoken
desert

these

words
a

heart, he coursed
a

through
which

the

seeking
led Then
him

place
in

make
to

water-station

lo ! the he well cool

was

god
the

order

grant the
quarrymen sustain the

request
to

desired. upon

were

commanded he

dig

desert, that
the the

might
of of

fainting,and
this

for him

burning
great
name

heat

summer.

Then the
water

place

built in
it in very

Sety, and
his he

flowed

into the
me

great

plenty.
my Since but

Said

majesty, "Behold,
has
of

god
has

has upon been

granted
the

petition,and
the it has

brought
the

to

water

desert.

days
been

gods

the

way

dangerous, reign.

made has

pleasant
come

in

my my

glorious heart, at

Another

good thought

into

160

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

command whose build fathers

a

of midst

the shall

god,
be
a

even

the

equipment
with
a

of

town,

in

settlement this

temple.
name

I will

resting-place on
the

spot, in the

great

of my I have

gods.

May
the

they
that

grant
my

that

what shall

wrought
Then

shall

abide, and

memory

prosper,

circulating through
his

hill-country."
that the and leader
with him

majesty
be there that

commanded

of

the the in
was

King's
quarrymen, the

workmen

commissioned,
should be Now its

made,
after

by
the

excavation

mountain,
and

this

temple.
and

stronghold
j and

completed
majesty
said,
"

adorned,
to to

paintings executed,
!

his he
me

came

worship
you, 0 establish
as

his

fathers, all the gods

Praise may

great gods
my
name

May

ye

favour As the
are

forever,
been which
come,

ye
to

eternally.
watchful
to

have

useful ye

you,

I have ye

been

for

things
still to may my

desire, may
for

speak
or

those

who that

whether
me

kings, princes,
my in work in

people, place,
on

they
of

establish beautiful

this

behalf

temple
last
to

Abydos."
tell
mines
us

The
route

words

for had

what been
to

purpose

this
A

the

gold

bettered.

second
those

is long inscription
who

devoted
and
to

blessingson
mines
on

keep
was

up

this

shrine
and

the
curses

with those

which
who

it allow

connected,
it to
fall into
to

neglect. give
the

third
of

scripti inthe

is travellers

supposed
have
"

speech

who

benefited

by

the

king's

thoughtfulness:
Never
was

the

like

of

it

(the temple King Sety,

and the

the

well)

made

by

any

king, save

by

the

good shepherd,

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

161

who all.

preserves Men
say

his from
to to

soldiers mouth him march

are

alive, the
to

father
"

and

mother

of
him

mouth,
when
we

Amen,
for he

give to
has before

double eternity, for We

us

everlastingness;
on,

opened
us.

the

road

it

was

closed and
are

proceed
The
a

and

safe,
has

arrive is in the
in
our

preserved
has the far come beof

alive.

difficult way
way.

which

memory

good
easy. the

He hath

caused for water

mining
the who

gold
from the

to
men

be

He

dug
of

desert

for

supply

every

traveller

traverses

highlands."

Sety

dedicated
with

his

temple
old

to

Amen of he

Ha,
the
seems

whom

he

identified
to

Min, the
the the

god

place,and
to

Harmachis,

sun-god, whom
hawk,
Horus

have

identified with
here his the

of Edfu.

He

alsoand

worshipped Ptah,
lion-headed
consort

the

Egyptian Vulcan,
;

Sekhmet

Turn

Hathory

Egyptian
Kab
; ;

Venus

Nekheb,
Isis
;

the

vulture-goddess
the who them mother
was

of El

Osiris and the

Mut,

dess godthe
son

and

Khonsu,
Ha and

moon-god
and

of

Amen

Mut,
Thebes. of the

with
All

formed

the
sees

royal trinityat
upon

these and

gods

one

the

walls

temple,
the

before

them

Sety
food.

is shown Some

offeringincense, wine, flowers, and

on inscriptions

rocks

near

the

temple, written
visited deities
who
:

by high
make

officials of this mention

and
a

period who
two

the

mines,
the

of

other

Ea,
a

sun-god,
and

strange goddess
a

rides

horse

brandishes

shield

and

spear,
L

162

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

When

Sety

died for

the
some

temple
reason

was

still not
or

quite
which

finished, and
we

other
so

shall

probably
at

never

know,
too,
was

it

remained.
the

His
revenues

temple

Abydos,
to

neglected,and
walls of the

ceased
curses

be

collected.
on

Thus, in spite of
desert

the

inscribed

the

shrine, the
of the

king's plans
in order
to

for the
pay

continual
for the

working
At
a

mines,

maintenance
out.

of his

great masterpiece,were
Ranieses

not

carried

Abydos
few of years

II., in
states

an

written inscription
he found the

later,

that and the

temple
not

Sety

there

unfinished,
to

that

it had

been
it of

"completed according
the

regulationsfor
finished
the for the

gold-house." He, however,

and

ing, build-

perhaps Wady
the hall

re-established
Abad of

gold workings
on one

along

the

route,
the
an

of

the

pillarsof
"

desert

shrine

there

is
reads

an

inscriptionwritten Bringing
Since in the of the the II."
that

by
for

official which festival

in

gold
time

the

the

temple

of Eameses

until

the

present day the gods

out at
a

sanctuary

have

looked

long

stream

travellers, soldiers,miners, and

rocks and
on

officials.

Upon
are

the

walls

of

the

temple

there

several

and hieroglyphical

Greek

which inscriptions

tell of the of the

coming

of all of El

manner

of
here

people.

chief

custodians

Kab

records

his name,

archaic

drawings

of rocks

sacred
near temple

boats,
of

animals,
wady

etc., abAd.

on

J5

4)

7-,

8,

9,

ii,

12,

14.

North

face

of

cliff, east

of

Temple.

"

Page
2, 3,

157.
10,

6,
"

15,

16,

17.

Larger

of

two

fallen

rocks,

east

of

Temple.

Page
face

157. of of cliff

5. 13.

West Smaller

projection, rocks,

east

of of

Temple." Temple.
"

Page Page

157. 157.

two

fallen

east

Pl.

xxx.

Pl.

xxx.

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

163

and
near

scribe

of

the of
to

kings
the

troops

is immortalised
ex-

by.

Many

Greek
with
as

inscriptions are
whom the
was

votos

dedicated
been

Pan,
;

old the

Min

had of

identified

and

the

latter

god
the

desert

travel,
of

so

the

sprightlyPan
Miners their
as
an

becomes
from
;
a

sober and

patron
from

the

roads. of

Syracuse
and
one

Crete describes
in
to
one

tell

advent

traveller

himself
of those

Indian,

voyager,

perhaps,

trading
the this A
man

vessels

which
of
to

brought
East,
to

the

port

of Berenice
across

riches

the the

be of that

conveyed
he had

great desert
named in

markets
states

Alexandria.

Dorion
from
an

returned in

safety
south.

elephant hunt, probably

are

the

Two God

scriptio infor

written
and

by Jews, thanking
it is

their safe
that
one

journeys ;
of them

to interesting

notice
son

is

called

Theodotus,
son

of
"

Dorion,
all pagan recorded

and

the

other A

Ptolemy,
troop
in the of

of

Dionysius
soldiers
state

names.

Greek

have that Good

their
a

names

temple, and
"Pan of

they
Roads."

kept

watch

before

the

These their
at

travellers,besides,
seem

or

instead

of, writing
few of
stones

names,

often

to
as

have
a

piled a
memorial
the

conspicuous points
At

their

passage.
and

various

places in
foot of

neighbourhood,
hills

especiallyat

the

the

opposite

164

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

the and

temple,
when

there

are

many

such rise from

piles of
the

stones

well

built
or

they
so

rocks

like
two
are

altars, three
feet in

feet

in
one

height, and
or

perhaps
there

diameter. of

In

two

cases

fragments
them,
and

old

Egyptian
seems no

pottery lying
that The desert

beside
are

there

question
the
not

they
same

connected still

with

worship. religious
is significance
is not

tom cus-

prevails amongst
its

people,
;

though
and
on
a

now

remembered

yet

its

meaning
the

entirelyforgotten,for
we

near hill-top

temple
shells
old

found,

near

such and

pile of stones,
collection modern
In
was

three Sea

pairs of gazelle horns gods.

a

of Red

a pierced for stringing,

to offering

the

Graeco-Roman constructed
in
near

times the

large

fortified
and It

station

temple, temple, not

foot
of

this

still
in
a

stands the

fairly good preservation.

in

is built than

plain

front

of

the the

more

hundred

yards
the

from

the

cliffs.

The

enclosure

is somewhat

larger than
The

is usual
area

in these has
never

stations, but
been
to
a

greater part of the

built

upon. of ten

enclosing wall
or so

still stands
but

height

feet

in

parts,

here

and in
are

there three
two

it is almost

entirelyruined.
so

It inside
walk

is built
there around

thicknesses,

that
one

on

the

heights

at

which

might
above

the
enters

rampart

without

showing

it.

One

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

165

through
either beam On and

well-built
one

masonry
see

doorway,
hole into
door

and

on

side
was

may
to

the

which
at

the

shot

close the is
a

wooden

nights.
;
a

one's here

right there
an

group

of small
one

chambers
of

isolated

house, in

wall

which

window

is of

still intact, forms

the

the

best-preserved
is
a

portion

ruin.
there

On
was

one's
a

left there

large

hall, in which
now

tank,
can

parts of which,
seen.

half-choked one's
common

with

sand,

be hall

The

next

building on
size
"

left is also
mess
-

of

considerable
of the

the

room,

probably,
the
open

travellers. which
not

One

then

passes the
a

into

yard, court-

bears
more

off to than
sees

left,or
or

north, and
of walls.

does

contain

trace

so

Although
stations
interest in
never

one

so

many

of

these
charm any

Roman
and other ages

the

Eastern

Desert, their
more

palls; and,

than
back

ancient and These

buildings,they bring
ruins, too,
to

the

lost
old

recall the

forgotten activities
are

of the

world.

always
at

picturesque, and
and
at sunset

gather

themselves

dawn

the

hues, the

lights,and
dawn,
at

the
noon,

shadows
at sunset
"

of

the all

fairest

fancy.
"

At

day long
;

this fortress in the

who

Wady
desert
some

Abad there
new

is beautiful is here

and
in

for those

love

the

and

its
The

surroundings always
walls
of the

thing beyond

to

charm.
the

enclosure, and

them

66

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

portico of pillared rugged

as

the

temple shelteringunder
as

the

brown

cliffs,form
in

delightfula picture
As
one

may

be
one

found may

Egypt.
the
rock
as

sits in the

blue

shadow

watch

black-and-white
to

stone-

chats there
which The

flutteringfrom
circles
form wide
a

rock, and

overhead
as

vulture,

vividly coloured
in the in

those

the

ceiling decoration by
the the

temple.
hills
on on

flat

plain,shut
one

distant

all sides, entices

from

fortress

to

its

sparkling surface, though

the

the

tumbled
to

rocks

near

temple
and

soon

call
nooks.
one

one

back The

their

breezy

humps

shady

hundred
in the
a

ing surroundment advertisesummit

but the

vie hill-tops of their

to two

with

another
one

merits, and

attains

covet
or

further
trees

prospect.
and
the

Or, attracted
few bushes

by

three

which

grow
to

in the

plain over welcoming

song of the
note

against the fortress, one

shade
;

walks may

their
to

and

there

one

listen

the

sand-martins
of the finches.

and

to

the strange,

long-drawn
11

book

of

verses

underneath

the

bough

."
.

"

One
to

knows express here

one

now

what the

the

old

philosopher desired
is indeed

for may

wilderness the
a

Paradise,

and

find

true

happiness.
of

The

day slipspast
to

in of

half-dream

pleasure
finds
so

and

the

student

archaeology,who

X"Y~

/^C^rciTHNQHPAN

^;

^/CAirY
"/

Greek

inscription relating-to of the east Temple

an

of

elephant hunt, on Abad." Wady Page

rock

to

the

163.

Scale of Metr
0

123456789

10

Sketch-plan

of

the

Temple

o\'

Wady

Abad.

Pl.

xxxi.

The

Temple

of

Wady

Abad.

167

much

for his the

pencilto
race

record

and
an

his mind

to

sider, con-

hours

by
the
too
one

at

absurd

speed.
like
an

The
noon's afterin

two

days which
dream,

we

spent here
memories

passed

and

which

remain

the here
scene,

mind in and

are

almost

slightto
the

record.
the

Writing
rugged
gave
cranes, to

the

study
searches
to

reconstructs

for

incidents
was a

which

gentle colour
which sailed
on

it.

There

flight of

overhead, moving
their way
to

from

south-east
the
summer

north-west,

spend
hundred
red

in
so

Europe.

Why
the

should
passage of

one's
a

memory

recall birds ?

charmedly
was
a

There
upon
a

hyaena which,
watch three
a

in the and

dusk, stood

hill-topto
There
were

us,

presently disappeared.
which
rose

vultures

from

the
and

bones

of

dead

camel,
when and
we

soared had
at

into

the

sky,
the

alighted again
a

passed.

There
to

came

flock

of

goats

sheep

noonday
the in his

well,
of

with
many rags

much

bleating and
The

with

gentle patter

hoofs.

shepherd
his down

picturesque
towards thirst.

eyed

us

curiously as
us,

charges drank, and,

the

still
the And

watching
west
so

passed they
had

wady
their the
two

when one's

quenched
over

memory

wanders

days,
more

and the trivialities, recalling

passing over
of work, and the

the

precise details
one sees

of camp the

life and
tent

until presently

struck

baggage

68

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

bumping
of the

down

the

valley
camels.

once

more

on

the

backs

grunting
was soon

The and which

return

journey
accumulated
in

to

Edfu mail the

the

accomplished,
or

the

of

five of

six
ride

days

was

waiting
one

at

end business
the

the

quickly

brought
the

back

to

of

life, and
of

relegated happy

Wady

Abad

to

store-chamber

recollections.

VII.

NUBIAN

HIGHWAY.

Opposite below
an

the

town

of

Aswan,
of the

short

distance
there rises
name

the

First known

Cataract
to

Nile,

island

travellers river
west
a

by

its Greek
down from
one

of

Elephantine.
to east

The

sweeps
;

the mayof

cataract

and

southwards
dozen dark

watch

it

flowing

around thrust
water

clumps
as

granite rocks,
breathless without
above

which the

themselves,
;

it were,

and

northwards the

almost
hills and should the look site
east

hindrance
of upon the

it passes
mainland.

between

palm-trees
one

Nowadays
which
mark and

stand the

the

mounds

of and

ancient
one

city of Elephantine,
would feel the that
scenes

north,
hidden

modern of from the

civilisation

had
had the

for

ever

past,

and

prevented place
as

the
was

imagination
in the elder the of

re-picturing
The

it

days.
ruined

huge

Cataract
stares

Hotel down from

overshadows its

city,and
on

pinnacle

granite
On

to

the

tumbled

stones

of ancient

temples.

the

island

170

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

itself, opposite this hotel,

rest-house of the terraced the

the

elaborate

and

modern ultraWorks
to
rounded sur-

Ministry of
gardens
;

Public and

rises amidst
the north

its stands

farther

imposing Savoy Hotel,

trees

by
to neat

luxuriant

and

flowers

unknown the

the

ancient

Egyptians.
of Aswan

Eastwards
the

long,

promenade
the

edges
and the winter craft and

river, backed
offices,and
end the

by

Grand

Hotel,

the

Government
at
one

other

large buildings;
station
tells the

noisy
of the the

railway
Present.

insistent
one

tale

During
and the

may

watch
to

busy
and

launches
may
see

small

plying
fashion

and

fro,

quality
either end

of

Europe
;

amusing
at

itself at the

of the

passage

while

night
the

brilliant
from of the
a

lights blaze
thousand

into

the

waters

of the
open

Nile

electric
drift modern the

lamps,
out
:

and

sounds

latest
The

valse
is

through
one

windows.

place
above

sips
down in the

one's remains
a

whisky
of

-and

-soda

crushed-

Pharaonic
laid and
out

splendours, plays
above
'

tennis

garden

the Times his

to

libraries
'

of

Ptolemies,

reads

The

where,

maybe,
Satire.
south

melancholy
But
a

Juvenal
one

wrote turn
now

Fifteenth
the
west

should

and

different

impression might
the for the

be

obtained.

On
of

the the

island
rich

still stands

imposing gateway
sake of its

temple destroyed

building-

Nubian

Highway.

171

stone

in

the

days
an

of

Muhammed

Ali

and

near

it, only recently,

intact burial vault The above the and the

uncovered archaeologist sacred

rams

the Nileland main-

of the

of the
western

god
sand

Khnum.
tower

rocky
the

hills of the

island, great drifts of golden

from
cut

carrying edge
of
;

eye

the into

summit the of

to

the
are

water's the In
more

here,
ancient there the the

rocks,

tombs this

princes
is almost ruined of
a

Elephantine.
that of is St in

direction
than
at

nothing
monastery

modern built

Simeon,
the the one's

head

sandy valley
1173

early days
fierce back brother
to

of

and Christianity, of Saladin in

destroyed by
a.d.

With
to

the

hotels, and

one's
the of

face
old the

these

changeless hills,the history of

to

city is

able

be

traced

with
the of

something
thoughts.

feeling of clearly
far-off savage

realityto
One and

aid

period
From the south the

that

history stands
the
a

out

distinctlyamidst being
end houses
"

dim

course

of of had
a

events.

stronghold
the

tribe covered named

of

island
streets
-

become fine

by
Abu

and

of
"

city,

or

Elephant
after

City
the

(and

hence

Elephantine), no
of its chieftain. and had Vlth

doubt The
"

elephant symbol
of the
to

feudal
about

tendencies
B.C.

Yth
"

Dynasties
power

2750
to

2475

brought

and

wealth

the

local

princes

172

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

in the
a

many

parts

of of

Egypt
the

and had

here

the

family
to

of
to

chieftains

island

begun
This
was was

rise

degree
to

of

some

importance.
that
of
to

largely
the and the

due

the
"

fact

them Door

intrusted

office of
the

Keeper
of

the

of the

South,"
at

protecting
Cataract

the

Egyptian by

frontier the

First

from

invasion

negro

tribes

beyond.
The foot the of

city rose

amidst
at
a

its

trees

and

rocks in those

at

the

of the river
waters

cataract,
ran

point

where the

days
roar

still

swift, and

where

distant
the island
or

continuously
eastern

drummed

upon the

ears.

On
the

the huts

mainland hovels
of the
to

opposite

stood

and

great 'Swanu,
latter
'

market,
;

which and

gave here of the the

its the the

name

the

town

of Aswan the upper

negroes,

coming by
the

from

reaches avoids with end and

the

river
of

valley
met

road
and At

which traded
the far

rocks

the of

cataract,

inhabitants the

Elephantine.
islands
as

of this road
others rocks
were

barren

of

Philse, Bigeh,

regarded
mainland

neutral
not

ground,
yet

and

of the
to

were

forbidden miles
was

territory

the

Egyptians
this the

for

some

stream. uplittle

But

beyond
those who

country
into

known,
their

and lives
in

penetrated

it

took

their

hands.

Nubian

Highway.

173

First and
east

there

came

the
to

land

of the the

the

Kau

tribes
on

then, farther
bank and

the

south,
on

Wawat
west to

the in

the

Sethu

dwelt the

barbaric lived
seen

independence.
warlike

Still who

farther

south be hair of

the
at

Mazoi,

might
feathers hands.
;

sometimes in their The

the

market,
and

ostrich
in south their

and Arthet much

bows

clubs
the

land

lay
below

to

again
Cataract

and and

lastly, not
the modern

the

Second there

Wady
people
Who did the and
not

Haifa,
of Aam.

lived

the

almost

unknown

dwelt know.
"

to

the

south

of this

the
"

Egyptians
Land of

That
:

territorywas
borders
no

The the

Ghosts
the

the
ocean

perilous
into
to

of
man

world,
trated, peneTo the the

misty
were

which

had

there of the

be

encountered.

inhabitants

the
upper

brilliant river south

little

metropolis
to

peoples
folk
;

of

appeared
their

be the and

hazy
more

and

the
were

farther

land

mysterious
ghostlier
the

their
ways.

surroundings
The told
the negroes who

the
to

their
no

came

market
in

doubt
of

stories

then,

as

they
the
;

did

later

times,

great

stature
races

and

marvellous

longevity
a

of

those hundred

distant
miles

and

though
river

but

couple
the

of

of

winding
that

separated

Egyptian

frontier

from

174

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

of

the

land the

of

Aam,
of

that the

distance

sufficed

to

twist
the In had had

thoughts
to

market-gossiper

from

mortal archaic

the

immortal.
an

times
some

unknown
up

Egyptian
the

king King
a

penetrated
left
a

sixty miles
one

river, and
and

record
the

on

of

the

rocks;1
had

Sneferu

of the

Illrd

Dynasty
But Vth from

devastated
that the

part
the its into

of

country.
of the

time
land
once

until and
more

beginning
the

Dynasty
had As

people, left unmolested,

in

drifted
the

pale regions of mystery.

grew

nobles

of

Elephantine
their
of

wealth
to

and be

power,

however,
with
some

attention

began

turned
south
to
;

degree
the it
was

fixiditytowards
Sahura

the
came

and

when

energetic King
felt
of roads bank negroes

the

throne,
for the

that

the

time

had

arrived

probing
The
eastern

the

mystery.
which of
near

led

to

the and

south

along
were

the used
to

the

river,
the
not

which when
for

by
the

the

frontier

coming
caravans

market,
for

were

practicable
and

bound

distant

goals ;
of

the

Egyptians
mentioned in this
in

The

various
were

rock-inscriptions during
are a

Lower I made my in
'

Nubia

chapter
autumn

found

tour

which
in

in that
on

country
the

the

of 1906, and Nubia and

recorded

Report

Antiquities
for the The evidence

of

Lower

their

Condition

1906-7,' published given

there.

Egyptian
for the

Government of the

by

the

University Press, Oxford.

tribes is also

locating

various

The

Inscribed

Rock,

from

the

north-west.

"

Pages

181-183.

warn
The

Inscribed

Rock,

from

the

south-west.

Pl.

xxxii.

Nubian

Highway.

175

turned

their which somewhere

eyes, the

therefore,
sorrowful

to

the lands

western

hills,
Dead
site oppowhich

behind
were

of

the

situated.
a

Almost

exactly valley, in

the
now

city lay
the the

sand-covered ruined island

a

stands
From little mile the the
or

monastery
boat carried whence sand
a

mentioned
one across

above.
to

the
a

reedy bay,
so over

from

trudge

of

half
on

the of

soft the

brought
led

one

to

upper

levels
the
to

desert.

Looking eventually
west

towards
to

north,
was

road be

which
seen

Lower

Egypt
over

to

the

the
to

eye the the the Aam river

wandered far Dead

the made

undulating
awful south the the

wilderness
presence

horizon,
;

by
the

the

of and
to

and

to

the hid of

sand-drifts

rocky
and
on

hillocks the Land

untravelled Ghosts.
to

paths

Keeping
the

the

the

left hand,
here

it seemed
pass
over

Egyptians
desert
;

that
as

they might
as

the
men

upper
to

far
a

the

gods permitted
to

penetrate

and would the

descent

the

Nile like
a

at

any

convenient
from

point
upon

bring them,
tribes
there of

bolt

heaven,

settled.
Sahura
"

The with this

army
numerous

perhaps
"

thousand
set
a

men

baggage-donkeys
and after
a

out

along days
as

road,

march

of

few

nearly straight ahead (which

bends
towards

as

struck possible,

the in

river
the

the

west)

at

point

176

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

land
was

of
no

Arthet,
doubt

now

known from
;
an

as

Tomas. rich

A fields

tribute
which

collected the
one

the

there the
name

border
of

Nile of

inscriptionrecording
was

the
;

captains
and the in

cut

upon

convenient

face of rock

army the in

returned
streets

to

Egypt
of
event

to

publish
Asesa

its

heroism

of

Elephantine.
King

Another

expedition
after
on
a

the years,

reign
the

followed
recorded

few rocks.

being again
Arthet,
to

the armed

Farther
did
not

than
venture

however,
go
;
nor

these
was

forces

this

Nubian the

highroad following

used

with

great frequency

during

years.
About the Herkhuf year
2500
B.C.
a

prince of Elephantine
mind
to

named
farther It is

made

up

his

penetrate
south. the and heart may may

towards

the

mysterious lands
since
he
set

of the
out
over

centuries forty-four the

sun

desert, with
the

wind

whistling past
his bones
of

his

ears

powerful
him
;

warming
story

and

his

within

yet the

his

adventures
he

still be read, the still be

may Arthet.

path by
and
on

which
names

travelled
of of his the

discerned,
seen

the
the

captains
land
necessary of

still be

rocks

Herkhuf,
from

having
he

obtained
set
"

the with

order

the

Pharaoh,
as

out

his
a

father
road
to

Ara,
the

"

in

order,"

says,

to

explore
which he

country

of Aam."

The

road

explored

Nubian

Highway.

177

and
route

opened
from from

up

was

probably a
to

continuation

of the far

Elephantine
the

Arthet, passing not

back

river,and
Simbel
and The

descending Wady
states

to the

water

between of the

Abu land

Haifa

in the

heart

of Aam. Herkhuf for

expedition was
tbat he
was

entirely
"

successful,and

very the he fame

greatly praised
which
a

it."

Emboldened

by
and

his

enterprise had expedition eight

to

brought him,
Aam,
A Herkhuf
runs

made
gone

second

was

from
was

Egypt
more
"

months.

third
set
a

excursion
out

adventurous. which

upon north

the

Oasis-road,"
to
or

from and

point
of

of Aswan
to

Kurkur

Oasis,
and and
to

thence Oasis

branches

Tomas

Arthet

the

Khargeh days
was

which

lies westward,

which At

in those

inhabited

by Libyan
met

tribes.
an

the

Kurkur
the
on

tion juncship leaderits way

Herkhuf of the
to

with
of

army,

under
was

Prince
these

Aam,

which
;

chastise

Libyans
to to
use

but

how
as

the
an

wily
escort

Egyptian
to to

contrived
men

it instead
and

his

own

back

Aam,

how

he

returned

Egypt
with
to

through
and
the

the

hostile
with of

of Sethu, territory

Arthet,
laden

Wawat,

three his

hundred
are

asses

presents
here. may

host,

tales too

long
One

narrate

story only
a

be recorded
to

in this

chapter.
had

During

fourth

expedition
M

Aam,

Herkhuf

178

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

managed
who He

to

obtain
a

one

of the
the

dwarfs Land of
now

or

pigmies
Ghosts.
the

inhabited
at
once

region of
in

the

informed
and

the

king,
received

boy

Pepy

II.

reply he
of

the

following
example

letter, which
in

is, perhaps, the

earliest

the
:
"

world's

history

tion private communica-

"

have which that which

noted,"
you you
was

writes have
sent

the
to

King,
me,

"

the

matter

of I

your

letter know army you

in

order

that

might
the

have with
a

returned you.
. .

in
.

safety from
You say of the the
in

Aam,
your
from

with

letter that the Land

have

brought
from

dancing pigmy
which of Fount 'Never who
to

god

of the

Ghosts, like the pigmy

the Land

Treasurer

Baurded You been Come

brought
say
to

in the time has

one

of Asesa. like
. .

my

majesty,
any
one

before has

him
.

brought by
northward,
this

visited

Aam.' and

therefore,
with you,

the

court

immediately,
must

bring
dance of the

pigmy
and the

which from the

you Land

bring living, prosperous,

the

healthy,
and he
to

of

Ghosts,
the into heart the

to

for

King
When

rejoice and
down
to

gladden
with you beside
not

King.

goes

vessel,
side

appoint trustworthy people

of the vessel When shall
ten
more :

be

him

at

either the

take
at

care

that

he

does

fall into

water.

he

sleeps
beside each the the my

night, appoint trustworthy people

in his cabin
; and

who

sleep
than

him

make
to

an see

inspection
this you

times

night. gifts of pigmy majesty

done

My

majesty
and with do for

desires Pount.

pigmy
arrive and

Sinai

of you, you

If

at

court,

being
will

alive, prosperous,
a

healthy,
that which of Asesa,

greater thing than

Baurded of my
in

was

for the
to

Treasurer heart's

the

time
to

according

the

desire

majesty

Nubian

Highway.

179

see

this

pigmy.
to

Orders arrange

have that

been

sent

to

the be

chief taken

of

the
from

New
every

Towns

food

shall

store-cityand
o*

every

temple

(on

the

road)

without

stinting."

How the
to

easy

it is to of

picture the
wonder

excited
from the

boy

ing awaitor

arrival in the

this

south,
as

watch

imagination the long

over

caravan

it
to

winds

its way

the

western

hills

from

Aam

Elephantine,

where

Herkhuf

and

his

prizewill
the

take

ship to Memphis.
Later
Arthet in and echoed The commander the Wawat with

reign
the of

of

Pepy

II.
the

tribes

of

revolted, and
songs of

Nubian

road highsoldiers.

Egyptian
of

the

expedition, named
the collected

Pepy-

nakht,
negroes,

slew took
of

large

number

unfortunate
a

many

and prisoners, It
was

great
this

quantity
disturbance named

plunder.
that
was a

perhaps during

certain
murdered
to

prince of Elephantine,
in Arthet.
son

Mekhu,
was

News

of

his death

brought
had

his

Sabna

by

ship's
diately imme-

captain

who

himself
a

escaped.
soldiers
and

Sabna
a

collected

few

hundred

baggage -donkeys, bearing presents

ointment,
same

of
out

honey, oil,
upon the

and

fine

linen, and
Arthet. he
;
was

set

highroad
of his

towards

By
able

the
to

judicious
discover upon
a

use

oil and of his

honey
father

the

body

and, loading it

180

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

donkey,
he
was

he

commenced
of
avert

the

return

journey.
he

Before it
a

clear
to

Arthet,
an

however,
attack

found

necessary

by
an

presenting
tusk

sullen
three

negro

chieftain
in

with
the

elephant's
same

cubits
his the how best

length, at
was

time
in

hinting
But

that
how

tusk

six

cubits

length.
there
in

expedition
Sabna hills
behind
was

arrived

safely at
father

Elephantine,
the

and
western

buried
the

his

modern

Savoy
the

Hotel,
for

and

how

he

rewarded

by
cannot

king
here

his

reallyplucky undertaking,
at

be

related

length.
There
was now no more

mystery
Second

about

the and

country

on

this

side

of

the

Cataract,

by
the

the way

perseverance
was

of these

princesof Elephantine
for

made the and

ready

the

conquest

of in

the the

Sudan,
XHth We how

which

Egyptians

commenced
in the

Dynasty
of the

completed obstinacy
of

XVIIIth.

present day cannot,

perhaps, appreciate
these nobles
quired re-

much
in

pluck
the
were

and

undertaking
the

these into

expeditions.
lands which

Not
were

only

they penetrating by
most

inhabited
these powers.

savage

tribes,but
with
had

they
human super-

believed

tribes
From

to

be

endowed

childhood
power
;

they
while of

heard

stories their

of their way into

magical
the

in
Aam

pushing they

distant

land

Nubian

Highway.

181

assuredly expected
hovered
routes at
over

to

encounter

those

ghosts

who

the the

edge
western

of

the

world.
ran

Their

caravan

hills the

dangerously
;

near

the

terrible

territoryof
their

Dead

and,

to

their their

minds, superstitious

daily marches by
the
monsters

and and Mazoi

nightly

camps

were

beset which

by
were

bogies compared
as

to

fierce

nought.
The reader who

finds

interest
roads

in

the
and

picture of
of Sabna

Herkhuf

exploring the
for his whether

of Aam, in
traces

searching
will ask

father's
any

body

hostile
of

Arthet,

definite
would

the

road highthat

still remain.
after have Let from four thousand

One
four

have

thought
years the

hundred
but

it would
case.

utterlydisappeared ;
the visitor hall
to

this is not
out
some

Aswan

step

afternoon

the
in

of
ears

his

hotel, where
the

the

string band
gowns boat of

throbs
shimmer
to

his

and his

latest
and let

Parisian
him the

before

eyes,

take
ruins the in

the

little

western

bay
in the he the

behind late
may

Elephantine.
blue
over

Here

afternoon walk

long

shadows the
the

fall,and
towards

coolness
stands

sand

monastery
him.

which At the
see,
near

on

higher ground
to

before he
will

top of
some

the

hills

his
a

left

presently
boulder

distance
tomb of

away,
some

large

isolated

the

old

Mussleman

saint

and

making

82

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

his
will

way

up

the
come

hillside upon the

towards
a

this

boulder,
x

he

suddenly
up flat

paved
to

causeway

which

sweeps

over

sand

the

rocky
the

summit.

Bough
and

blocks
are

of

sandstone and

form there

paving,
that
the

these the

only

here

overwhelmed

by
road it

driftingsand, though
been

it is evident
at

has

entirelyburied
the the
a

the

point where
is

approaches Mounting
to

water.

the hill-top,

causeway

seen

to

pass

within
one
now

few

yards
to

of

the

great

boulder

which

finds
as

have
to

been
form

surrounded
a

by

rough wall,
or

though
On
the

kind

of rock

sanctuary
there
are

chapel.

sides

of

the

several

recording the coming inscriptions

the

of various

officials of
of

Empire
this
year

"

tax-collectors,
and
road

superintendents
so on.

the

Nubian
from

gold mines,
that after the

It

is for had

evident
many done
a

was

used Sabna

long
with

Herkhuf
now

and

it
no

though
nor

it it

possessed
lead
At any the

for
more

the
to

travellers the
where Land the

terrors,
the

did

of

Ghosts.
passes upper the

point
the hard

causeway of

boulder

surface

the

desert

bristles literally stones,

each

with

countless
a

little

heaps

of

consisting of
suppose reference that
to

small, upright slab

first to observe this

can can

hardly
find
no

am

the

road,

and

yet I

it in any

publication.

Nubian

Highway.

183

of

rock,

held of

in

place by

two

or

three
a

others.
haps per-

Fragments

pottery indicate
had the been

that

bowl,

containing water, pile. Here, then,

who
set out
are

placed beside
of the from here

each

memorials Arthet
from of of the

lers travelthe be fair

seen

for

distant
may

city on
These
a

the

island, which
the
are

floating in
stones

blue the

waters

Nile
who their

below.
asked

prayers from the

those of

prosperous the

journey
ram-headed below whose

gods
who
;

city :
in the the the

from dark

old

Khnum
the

lived

caverns

Nile
and from
a

from
arrows

Satet,
were

horned
terror
crown

goddess
of her

bow
; and

enemies

Anuket short
as

with

the
one

of

lofty feathers.
the

For road
now,

distance
passes

may

follow and

paved

it

wards southrocks
;

westwards sand-drifts
a

amidst
of

the

blackened lifeless land

and

golden
sand,

this

but
rock

presently it tops
and the and
so

deeply

shadowed

ridge of
is lost

descends

into, and

amidst,

wide, undulating desert, ablaze

with

the

light
selves themI did,
to

of the There

settingsun.
are

not to

many

persons the road

to

who

will find
as

able
or

follow
up

by camel,
Arthet,

to

take

ship

the

Nile,

in order

see

the

terminus
descends

of the
to

first part of the

the

highway.
the
near

The

road

river

behind

rich

fields of the

stragglingvillageof Tomas,

Derr,

184

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

the here

present capitalof
is beautiful in
a

Lower the

Nubia.
A

The

scenery tance dis-

extreme.

short

down-stream
the marks Sethu. bluff bushes down water's the

bluff

of

rock, projecting to
with

edge, and might dip

the

half-covered

drift-sand,
Arthet and of the

probable boundary
slide here
the

between from the

One

top

golden slopes to
towards one's the track

the

verdant and

thornfrom be
seen

wThich side of

river,

either

figurewould
of the rocks

sharply against the deep

one

blue the

sky.
and array

Sliding,
the of sand the

would

see

on

the

left

of

Sethu,

and

distantly the
;

superb
on

mountains

of Wawat the the

while

the

right the
would lie
a

green

bay
as a

into which
feast
to

road

descended
Farther

spread

eye.

up-stream
the

wooded

island
must

lies in
often

the

Nile, whither
fled
at

inhabitants
of

have
from the

the

approach
the

the

Egyptians
On the
many

desert. form

low
a

cliffs which
an

backing
and

of

this
of
a

bay
a

captain of
written added. conductors
"

expedition or
name,

master

caravan

has
been

his The of of

sometimes of

date
the Sabna
"

has
caravan"

Superintendent
Land of the
:

all
:
"

the

South Akab Khnum-

"

the

Captain
of the year

the
of

Soldiers
Asesa

the
"

Captain
"

ships
:

hotep
of the

the

sixth
. .

written
are

by

the

Captain
of the

soldiers

."

these

examples

The

Elephantine Road,

lookingalong-it

towards

Aswan.

"

Page

182.

.-., 'review

of Inscribed Pl.

the

islands at

in

the head

Rock

the

the near river, "c, from of the Elephantine Road.

xxxiii.

Nubian

Highway.

185

which inscriptions of of the the

were

here
to

cut

into

the

surface

rock, and
first

which

the A
to

archaeologist are
caravan

importance.
is

-conductor identified
with
;

named the
more

Ara, who
father than of
one

probably
has

be

Herkhuf,
Sabna

left his

name

here

and the

occurs.

But
are

perhaps
three
to

most

interestingof
the

these
an

records

short Arthet

which inscriptions under who

one

tell of
unknown

expedition
Pharaoh
B.C.

almost

Hornefersa,
It
of

probably reigned
of these
"

about

2400.

is in
this it

inscriptionsthat
"

the

name

country

Arthet

is

given, thereby making

locate
the

to possibledefinitely

territoryof these

people,
any

and

to

identify
the

this
"

highway

without
road from
"

further
to

question with
in
to

the

Elephantine

referred

inscriptionsas

leading

Elephantine
Above
surface of the

Arthet. rocks
one

these

steps
the eye

on

to

the travel

hard
over

desert,
to

and the

may for

the
and home the

broken
may his brown the

ground
follow the and
meet

north

many

mile,

road

by which

Herkhuf

carried

pigmy,
rocks second may

Sabna the

his fathers blue

the
;

body, until
the west south-

sky.
the

To

portionof
be followed
to

highway, leading on
point
not at

to

Aam,

but

whicli

it descends

again
one

the

river

has

been

fied identi-

though

may

safelysay

that

the

terminus,

86

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

lay between
Here
west

Abu

Simbel
has Nile low may
a

and

the

Second

Cataract.
On the

the bank

country
of the

different
the sand

aspect.
lies

thickly,and
with
cool scrub. of shade

humps
Between groves stand

itself into these

of sunt
one

hillocks walk

covered in the where

and
on

tamarisk,
the
east

flocks of
and birds

goats

dreaming
On rise

pathway
bank the

sing

overhead.

the

isolated
and plain,

hills of sandstone
are

suddenly
as

from
a

reflected
land of

in the Aam

river
is
as

in

flawless
as

mirror.
of

The

beautiful
different in

that

Arthet,

though
be the
was

altogether
The
traced Xllth

character.
of the From

later
in much

history
the

highway
the

cannot to

detail.

Vllth

Dynasties
affairs
a

Egyptian
at

Government
to

seldom after into

strong enough abroad,

of

home

attempt
Nubia

to

look

and

Lower

relapsed
the
B.C.,
;

state

independence.
Xllth
to

Amonemhat,
about
the
2000

founder
was

of

the

Dynasty,
reconquer
to

thus

obliged

country
up the

but Nile
a

his
and

expedition seems
not
across

have

travelled
A few

the built
a

desert.
at

reigns Anaybeh,
the
;

later

fortress
land of
must

was

the

modern

in the

of

Arthet,

few

miles

above

terminus
the
as

the

highway
now

from been the

Elephantine
used

and

road
the

have
route

continuously
the
fortress.

express

from

city to

This

Nubian

Highway.

187

stronghold
that it has its

is

so

much

ruined observation had been

and
up

sand-

covered though alfrom fortress

escaped position
Mention and is At

till now,

ascertained
of from
a

inscriptions.
named known
at

is
its

made

Taray, place

distance which the the

certain

given,
about
on

exactly
same

locates
a

it

Anaybeh.
was

date bank

large
the end
were

fortress Second of
now

built
and the

west extreme

at

Cataract,

at

the of

north

the

highroad
the and
as

walls

Elephantine lay
the

strengthened.
Above

Second

Cataract

land

of

Kush,
the

civilisation
the The

advanced had

southwards

territory of
before

Ghosts

perforce
now

to

treat re-

it.

Egyptians
inhabited could
of the

knew

that yond be-

very

human Aam
;

negroes but what

the

country

they
manner

still ask

themselves dwelt
were

in

whispers
of

bogies
above

to

the

south

Kush.

While
the

immortals from

falling
Second

back, however,
Cataract
of Aam
were

mortals

the The

surelypushing

forward.

people
and

were

slowly being displaced by them,

were

in consequence

hustling the
of

tribes

of Arthet.

During

the

reign
of of
to

Senusert
of

III. Kush and

(1887 B.C.)the
assumed the the

incursions

the
an

negroes

proportions
were

invasion,
wag"
an

Egyptians
and

obliged

expensive

lengthy

88

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

war

upon

them. the

When

at

last

they
and

were

driven
Pharaoh

back
set

beyond
up
a

Second
-stone

Cataract, there;
inscribed

the

boundary
ordered
what

the

words

which

he

to
a

be

upon
was

it show
to

plainly enough
find that

surprise it
his

him of

to

his enemies
powers

had

possessed none

those buted attri-

superhuman
to

which

subjects had

them.

Why,"
are

he

"

says, and
an

they

are

not

mighty people
My
to

after has
women,

all ;
seen

they
them

poor

broken

in

heart.
I

majesty
their their

it is not off their I

untruth.

captured
forth
set

carried their
swear

subjects,went
their for my lives
out

wells, smote
I
a

bulls.
as

reaped

grain, and
me

fire thereto.

my

father

speak

in

truth, without

lie therein

coming
sentence

of

mouth."

The

last

tells
conquer

of

the
proven negroes of

king's
of

fear

lest his with close

the

tradition soldiers
those

should
should

fact, and
Kush

endow

the

mysterious
to

powers

which

their and

proximity
end of the

the

Land
gave

of them

the

Ghosts
use.

world the

the

During
the

XVIIIth
was

Dynasty (1580-1350 continuously

launched
came

B.C.)
the

highroad
which

used

both

by

troops
Sudan,
the

were

being
administer

against
to

the

and
or

by

the
to

officials who
the

collect Great

taxes

laws.

changes

had

taken

place

since

the

old

days,

Nubian

Highway.

189

The

Land

of

the the

Ghosts

had

disappeared
still it The

almost

entirelyfrom
exist
somewhere
now
more

geography, though
above Khartum.

might
of

people
had fallen

Aam,

correctlycalled
Arthet,
Wawat. and Persons
to

Emaam,
had

tirely en-

absorbed the share of and

Sethu

to

travellingby
the found
at

the

highroad,
or

descending

river

at

Tomas in

near

the of

Second

Cataract,
of of Emaam the
a

themselves

the One
once

sphere
obtains

influence
some

either

place.
of this tomb Here

idea land

inhabitants

mysterious
Huy,
sees

from the

painting
at

in the

of
one

the
a

viceroy of
homage

south,
negro Pharaoh's

Thebes.

procession of
to

princes who
by
in the
a

have

come

to

do

the

representative.

They
the

have Prince

evidently travelled
of
two

highroad, for heavy

chariot hind bewalk

Emaam

rides
while of

drawn

by
him.
the

bulls,

his Wawat
are

retinue is also
there of in

prince
them
are
more

shown;

while

chieftains with

of Kush
the

numbers,
country.
in

bringing
Their and
eyes company savage

produce
or

their

clothes their

less is such

Egyptian
as
an

style,

wealth
stare

in

gold
in

Egyptian's sign
of

might
one

at.

In vain made

this

sober, prosperous
a

looks

for

that
of

ferocity

which

them

the

terror

Elephantine.
In the
XlXth

Dynasty

when (1350-1205 B.C.),

190

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

the

armies

of

Rameses up
to

the
the
wars

Great
in

and the
one

his

cessors suc-

passed Elephantine
routes

Sudan,
of of the

the main

road

must

have

been
The
name

of

communication.
is writ
to

Rameses of

the in

Great
contrast

large
modest
men

upon

the

rocks

Tomas,
of those
so

the

little records
the the
to

infinitely greater long

who
soon

of
was

early days. people

march
to

Not Sudan

afterwards
were

it
the

of
on

the

using

road
were

Egypt,
the
were

and

the
a

Egyptians
Pharaoh.
masters

obliged
Later,
when
own

bow

knee
once

to
more

negro the

they

of
to

their

affairs, the
and

tax-

gatherers
some

returned

Emaam,
on

the

names

of

have
At

been time

left

the

road. had

this

Elephantine
and
the

become

city of

considerable

wealth amidst walls

down

importance.
houses and south

Splendid
the end

temples
and

rose

trees,
of the

fortified frowned

around
upon walked

the
the

island

swift the

river.
streets

Priests, amongst
to

soldiers, and
the fro

nobles
of the

throng
over

townspeople,
waters.

or

sailed
the foot

and the

the

broken

At

of

western

hills, the
ran

bay
have and there

from often

which
been

the the

Nubian
scene

highway
the and

must

of
;

busy loading
at

unloading
may have

of

pack-donkeys
a

this

time

been

masonry

Nubian

Highway.

191

landing-stage worthily
Then
one

at

the

river's

edge

to

terminate

the
came

paved
the

causeway.

Greeks

and

the

Romans,

and

may the

picture perspiring legionaries hastening

along
of the

highroad

to

join

Petronius and

in

his
her of

chase

one-eyed
One

queen may

Candace
see

flying
Shems-

Ethiopians.
ed-Dulah,
to rout
come

the

agents

the
out

brother

of

Saladin, passing along

from Nubia
;

Christianity
the of

and

ently pres-

barbaric
Ibrahim

Mamelukes,
Pasha. of
score

driven
The last
most

before

the
scene

armies
in the
was

great
ancient
ago. of the from

long history
enacted
"

this
of

highroad
The

years

Dervishes,
of the

the
"

modern

inhabitants
on

Land
the

Ghosts,

marching
the road

Egypt
the

Sudan,
at

picked
its
An and from

up

at

Second
wards to-

Cataract,

early terminus,

and

headed

Tomas.
met

wards, English force, travellingsouththem the

some seven

utterly defeated
the from

miles

back

river, behind
Abu the the camp the

village of
And if
one

Toshkeh,

not

far

Simbel. ancient
bones of be of
so

journeys
to

direct of
of left

from

land the

of

Arthet
and
to

the

land

Aam,

dead
strewn

the

debris
and

their
over

will surface
one sees

found the

right

highway.
remains

Travelling

in

Egypt

many

192

Travels

in

Upper

Egyptian

Deserts.

of

the

solemn and

religious ceremonies

of
one

the
meets

ancient
with

Egyptians,
so

reading

at

home the
across

many
a

representationsof
real
relief
to
come

sacred
some

rites, that
relic, such

it is
as

this

highroad,
of the the

of

human

energy
one

and

toil.

In the

the

courts

temples priestsand
has has

has the

pictured

of processions of the the

kneeling throng imagination risingto

across

people.

One

heard

in the the

rhythmic chants,
has roof.
seen

smelt
of the

heavy incense,
the

and
the

the

smoke
Pharaohs

sacrifice stalked
to

Glum

have

raising their picture,

and
to
rows

stiff hands

the

dull

gods
led

of

bedraggled prisoners have

in has

been

the has

sanctuary, roped visited,or

slow

impossible contortions.
of, a thousand
tombs
one

One and

read
have here

the

funerals
But

passed
on

before

in
over

depressing array.
the and
comes

this

highroad
blows
where

western

where hills,

the

north

wind
one,

free there

the

kites

circle and into the relics of

call above limbs

old

vigour

and

ambition

into the with

heart, these
wonderful

adventures there land

the
are
no

appeal
the
of

force.

Here

mysteries
south, and
a

except the
there
are no

mystery
prayers and the

of the
save

to

asking
four
not

ful success-

journey,
honour

piling of
One
"

stones

to

the

of the

gods.

does
How

pace
!
"

through
but

holy places whispering

weird

stick

Nubian

Highway.

193

in hand, follows of the

and in the

whistling
and

tune

down bold them

the

wind,

one

footstepsof
one

the

caravan-masters

past

thanks

from
a

the

bottom

of one's their

heart of
an

for the

having
world's

played
the

man's
serve

part
for

on

page
as

history to given
has of

all of the

time
the

example.
hotels
the

When

amusements

luxurious

have

out,

and
to

solemnity of
the of spirits and be the found island

ancient

ruins and

begun
of

pall,
tains capto

Herkhuf

Sabna,
are

the

the

caravan-conductors,
on

always
head of

waiting
of

the

breezy hill-topsbehind
at

Elephantine,

the

the

Nubian

highway.

PRINTED

BY

WILLIAM

BLACKWOOD

AND

SONS.