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Berlin Tube Map

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History History

Berlin from 1237-1900 In tracing back a few hundred years, that, by the mid-fourteenth century, Enlightenment. Prussia’s third king,
it is possible to see how this came had become the most important Friedrich the Great, transformed
Berlin is a name which conjures many to be. Geographically speaking, trading town in Brandenburg, with Prussia - with Berlin as its capital -
images: a city at the centre of war, a Berlin came into existence as an its own City Council and Stadtbuch. into an enlightened, politically and
conflicted and divided city. A city, if insignificant trade town situated economically strong and religiously
you will, on the extremes. By the time of the Reformation,
in between the two older towns of tolerant state.
Berlin had become an important
Having been the axis of so much of Spandau and Cölln. This central
German town in its own right,
the world’s recent history, it might position worked to Berlin’s favour as
particularly special to many being
be easy to assume that this was all it continued to grow and enveloped
one of the first cities in Europe to
that Berlin had to offer in terms of both other towns within its own
embrace Lutheranism. Because of
historical interest. But this is not so. boundaries.
this, many French Huguenots fled
It has been said of Berlin that it is the Though Berlin can only date its own to Berlin bringing with them their
centre of Germany just as Germany foundation from the first extant intellectual and industrial talents.
is the centre of Europe. mention of Cölln in 1237, it was Berlin
Even today, though the name
“Huguenot” has become largely
insignificant in modern-day
Europe, this relationship between
French Protestants and Berlin
is still celebrated in Mitte’s
Gendarmenmarkt.
Here the Französicher Dom and
the Deutscher Dom, mirroring each
other in design, are monuments to
the great respect these two groups
had for each other. Despite the years Even defeats in the Thirty Years War
between Napoleon’s invasion of failed to completely destroy Prussia’s
Brandenburg and the Cold War, when supremacy. This in time transformed
Franco-German relations were at a the Hohenzollern dynasty into one of
very low ebb, it is nice to see these the greatest in Europe, related by
two rivals still facing each other in marriage to most of the great houses
friendship in the Gendarmenmarkt. on the continent.
Not only a trend-setter in religion, This strength, nobility and stature
Berlin became a leader in the were, along with the talents of

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History History
Otto von Bismarck, one of the main Jewish people of Berlin successfully Philosopher and scholar Moses In the Weimer years (1919-1933)
reasons why Berlin and its monarchy engaged in money lending and Mendelssohn arrived in Berlin in Jewish citizens of Germany and Berlin
became the head of the newly unified petty trade. They were confined 1743, and urged Jews to integrate enjoyed unprecedented levels of
Germany. to living in a ghetto in the Grosser into secular society and by 1778 these freedom, with plays by Max Reinhardt
Judenhof (Jew’s Court) area, and on enlightened ideas found expression taking the stage, Jewish composers
Despite the later failures of this
Judenstrasse (Jew Street). in the Jüdische Freischule (Jewish including Arnold Schoenberg’s works
system in the early years of the
Free School) that combined religious being performed, Max Liebermann
20th century, this age of a strong Following the devastation of the
learning with general education. and Lesser Ury creating beautiful
and enlightened German Empire, Thirty Years’ War and in an attempt
paintings and musicians such as the
led from Berlin, remained in the to achieve an economic upswing by Though the 1812 Emancipation
Comedian Harmonists at the height
European psyche for many years. increasing population, the Great Edict that declared Jewish people
of popularity. The Jewish population
Elector Friedrich Wilhelm allowed 50 equal citizens was in the most
continued to grow and by 1933
prosperous Jewish families that were part quickly retracted, there was
160,000 Jews called Berlin home.
Jewish History of Berlin expelled from Vienna to settle in the a general loosening on Prussia’s
Brandenburg region in 1671. They restrictions and growing equality for At the same time anti-Semitism was
The history of the Jewish community were permitted to stay under the its Jewish population. By 1869 the on the rise and the years leading up
is plagued by episodic persecution, condition that they pay an annual new North German Confederation to the ascendance of Nazi power saw
Jews often being used as a scapegoat protection fee, engage in only passed a law on the equal rights of increasing attacks on members of the
for economic and social woes. certain businesses and worship only religious confession Jewish community. State-
By 1295 Jewish people in Berlin were in their own homes. Finally, a Jewish and declared the backed persecution
barred from many professions and community of Berlin was officially emancipation of ensued after the
effectively forbidden to become founded. Jewish people Nazis took power in
members of the artisan guilds. within its territory 1933, and with the
Despite suffering restrictions on
and by 1871 German 1935 Nüremberger
Throughout the 14th to 16th centuries religion, residence and family size
Jews had equal Gesetze (Nuremberg
Jews were expelled from Berlin and as well as extra taxes, the Jewish
rights. Within a Laws) the Jewish
let back in time and again, accused population of Berlin grew and by
few years members citizens of Germany
of acts such as the rampant plague 1700 the city’s Jewish slums had
of the Jewish were effectively
in Berlin and Brandenburg, which approximately 1,000 residents. In
community rose to deprived of social and
had been sweeping across Europe; 1714 the first synagogue of Berlin was
prominence in government, many economic rights via the introduction
and host desecration; which meant dedicated. As excellent merchants
as close advisors to the Kaiser. By of apartheid-like classifications of
that Berlin had virtually no Jewish and bankers, by halfway through the
the turn of the century, there were “racial purity”.
community for a century. 18th century the Jewish community
more than 110,000 Jews in Berlin,
totaled close to 2,000 and they had Between 1933 and 1939 Jewish
Between expulsions and being comprising more than 5% of the total
become among the richest people in community life increased as Jewish
banned from most other trades, the population.
Berlin. citizens were forced to send their

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History History
children to segregated schools and This night is known as citizens were banned from public and even by 1988 the East German
forbidden from interacting with Reichskristallnacht – Night of Broken transport, their food rations Jewish community had less than 200
non-Jews. Those who could see the Glass, a nationwide attack on the were reduced and thousands members.
writing on the wall and had money Jewish people that resulted in the were deported, mostly to the
In West Berlin, the German Jewish
escaped while they could, though death of 36 of Berlin’s Jews, many Theresienstadt and Auschwitz
community had about 6,000
even such escape was a limited were beaten on the streets while concentration camps.
members, constituting
opportunity, as other European passers-by looked on; the destruction
By the end of the war, the largest Jewish
countries, the US and Palestine all of 23 synagogues and the wrecking of
Hitler’s mass genocide community in Germany.
restricted Jewish immigration. hundreds of shops and businesses.
had reduced Berlin’s After the two Berlin
German Jewish citizens were then
In retaliation for the assassination Jewish population by Jewish communities
required to pay one million marks to
of German diplomat Ernst vom Rath, around 96 per cent to were reunited with the
repair the damages.
who was killed by a 17-year-old about 6,500. Survivors fall of the Berlin Wall,
Polish-Jew, Herschel Grynsypan, the By 1941 it was compulsory for Jewish managed to escape the federal government
Reich Minister of Propaganda Joseph citizens to wear a yellow star at all death often through approved refugee status
Goebbels called for a nationwide times, and the first mass deportations being hidden by gentile for Jews from the former
pogrom on November 9th 1938. from Berlin marked the beginning of families at great Soviet Union and since
the systematic large-scale genocide personal risk or by then over 50,000 Jewish
of German Jews. Before the end of evading final round-ups people have immigrated
the war over 55,000 Jewish residents through legal conditions to Germany, with Berlin
of Berlin were deported. such as irreplaceable more than doubling its
skills vital to the war congregation members
In January 1941 the Wannsee
effort or being married to a non-Jew. to over 12,000.
Conference resolved and planned the
Only about 2,000 returned from the
so-called Endlösung der Judenfrage Since reunification several steps
concentration camps.
(Final Solution to the Jewish have been taken to preserve Jewish
Question) – the removal of all Jews In 1946 the Jewish community was history including the opening of the
to the East and, implicitly, their officially recognized again as a Jewish Museum and the decision by
extermination. The Final Solution public body, and a large number of the German Bundestag to erect the
began to be put into effect, and Eastern European Jews immigrated Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden
life for the Jewish citizens in Berlin to Berlin. As a result of intense Europas (Memorial for the Murdered
became increasingly unbearable. anti-Semitic persecution in East Jews of Europe) according to the
Germany, many members of the design by Peter Eisenman.
All Jewish schools and institutions
Jewish community fled to the west.
were closed down, the Jewish
As a result, the Jewish community of
community was disbanded, Jewish
East Berlin was almost non-existent,

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History History

The puzzle of the Berlin Wall punishable by death. There was the historic port in Cape Town, South 21 different countries; previously it
nothing the Western Berlin police Africa; the entrance of the Basilica was only allowed for West Germans.
An anti-capitalistic protective barrier could do to stop this. Fatima Sanctuary in Portugal; The Gallery is not just for the artistic
with concrete pads, barbwire and the Vatican garden; the 6km long exploration of the Wall’s demise, but
watchtowers held the East German A sad chapter in German history was
green stream Cheonggyecheon in for the memory of the dead refugees.
population from running away. put to an end when the Wall was
South Korean city of Seoul; the EU During the Wall’s 20th anniversary
torn down in 1989, and as a result
“A wall is a hell of a lot better than Parliament in Belgium; as well as former artists were brought to the
the unification of Germany ensued.
war,” declared John F. Kennedy upon places in Strasbourg, Riga, London, capital city to remove the traces
Of over 100 watchtowers three
hearing about the construction of Canberra and Montréal. The biggest of the last 18 years. The graffiti
are kept. Even some of the former
the Berlin Wall. Wall piece outside of Germany is has suffered extensive damage
border crossings
Nevertheless, located in “Freedom Park” near due to visitors and attacks from
are still clearly
for about Arlington, Virginia. Mauerspechten (wall woodpeckers).
recognizable, with
28 years the A €2.5 million renovation is underway
the most well- The well-known East Side Gallery was
160km long and should be ready by Autumn
known transition painted in 1990 by 118 artists from
wall encased a at Checkpoint
whole nation. Charlie.
Between 1949 The wall was
and 1961, broken up and
2.5million the remaining
p e o p l e sections becoming
escaped from memorials and
the German museums for the
Democratic Republic (DDR) by trying fallen. The Todesstreifen (death
to get over the wall, or hiding in zone) can still be seen in many
traffic that was allowed to go through places. Some have been left as
the barriers. The accurate number of large areas of brown, uncultivated
people who were shot down when land, while other parts have been
they tried to escape varies according turned into parks. The pieces of
to different sources. Many memorials wall that were torn down and
give an account of the GDR fugitives’ demolished were sent to museums
tragic destiny: bleeding to death and universities across the world,
after being shot by border patrol and made into souvenirs for tourists.
soldiers. Escape from the German
republic was classified as treason, Wall sections decorate, for example,

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History History
2009. The maintenance of the wall should definitely go to the following BEARLIN Capital of the furry teddies
plays a major role, since it is both places. They will clear all important
an important monument to the questions and satisfy your thirst for Looking back on Berlin’s
reunification, as well as a Certificate knowledge. history begs the question
of European and world culture. of how the bear became
its symbol. Unfortunately
Anyone can acquire a valuable City Museum of Berlin it is not clear what was
memory in the form of a piece of the www.stadtmuseum.de here first; Berlin or the
Wall. Pieces come in different sizes, Am Köllnischen Park 5 bear. It wasn’t until 1280
which are also available online, up U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Jannowitzbrücke when the bear became the
to $150. However, if you want to see Tel: +49 3 024 002 159 heraldic animal of Berlin.
more than just a 2x2cm piece, the Tue, Thu-Sun 10am-6pm Today its image is still
opportunity as a tourist in Berlin is Wed 12-8pm used for advertisements
huge: at Potsdamer Platz, Pariser Price: €4 on different logos,
Platz next to the Brandenburger certifications,
Gate, in Mauerpark along Bernauer Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
newspapers, publications,
Strasse (National Monument, U www.mauermuseum.de
agencies, stamps and
Bernauerstr.) and in Mühlenstraße U-Bahn: Stadtmitte or Kochstraße
even more in and around
with the longest preserved part of Tel: +49 302 537 250
Berlin. The bear even
the wall about 1.3km. Mo- Su 9am- 8pm
became a permanent part
Price: €7.50-12.50
Those interested in the history of of the city’s flag in 1908.
the GDR and the fall of the Wall
Chapel of Reconciliation Berlin bear art is scattered
www.kapelle-versoehnung.de all over the city in the
Bernauerstr. 4 form of sculptures, plastic
Tel: +49 304 636 034 models and architecture,
Service to remember the victims most of which are hidden
(Sunday 10am) amongst the less tourist-
Tue-Sun 10am-5pm prone areas. Some have
also just been rebuilt
Topographie of Terror after they got eliminated
www.topographie.de or damaged during the
Niederkirchnerstr. 8 Nazi regime. Today,
Tel: +49 3 025 450 950 especially in Prenzlauer
Oct-Apr 10am-6pm, May-Sep 10am- Berg, there are many furry

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History History
inhabitants decorating the appear as feared creatures but rather Some of the bear art pieces are also
streets. In the middle of as cute clumsy bears, which delight used for charity. In 2001 Eva Herlitz
the public Volkspark lives the pedestrians who pass over the had the idea to paint bear sculptures,
the most colorful bear bridge. Around this area small cafes sell them at auctions and give the
in Berlin. He was born in and a cozy restaurant at the Spree money to UNICEF and other children
1970 and fell pray to some River invite everybody to sit down aid organizations. In this way they
graffiti artists in the last and relax. could donate more than two million
couple of years. However dollars in the last eight years. Jackie
One of the most important bear art
they decided to keep him Chan even brought the idea of the
pieces is W. Sutkowski’s refurbished
blue and call him Käpt’n United Buddy Bears to Hong Kong.
fountain, which was rebuilt after
Blaubär (Captain Blue Everybody can support this project,
being destroyed during World War
bear) which is now a great take part in the competition and
II. Sutowski made his artwork out
attraction for children maybe get the chance to give a
of red Lava Tuff stone which gives
who know this bear from buddy bear a new fur colour.
it an interesting pattern. This
TV.
fountain is decorated with one bear If you want to get a shot of this
At the Moabiter Bridge in the center and eight smaller bears famous Berlin symbol- just keep your
(Bartningallee) there around, almost as if the mother bear eyes open and wherever you may go
are four different bears is watching her children frolic. you will always find a bear.
designed by four sculptors
each at a different
location. The bridge was
built between 1893 and
1894 and was rebuilt due
to war damage between
1980 and 1981. The stone
bears are positioned on
all fours and appear to
be giant when standing
in front of them, their
huge paws and enormous
claws making them
appear even larger. Their
bodies look big and round,
nevertheless they do not

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Survival Guide Survival Guide

B erlin is a lovely place to see and explore, but just


to make your visit that much more enjoyable,
we’ve gathered some useful information to help


Take carrier bags with you to the supermarket to avoid being charged.
There is often a deposit or pfand on bottles from both supermarkets and
bars. If your bottle says Pfand zuruck or Pfand Flasche you can take it
you get by in the city.
to the supermarket recycling machine, which gives you a slip to take to
Culture and etiquette the counter and get your money back. Most bars will tell you if your glass
needs to be returned to get your deposit back.
Berlin generally has a laid back and accepting
attitude to most things, although there is an • It’s best to carry cash – few places accept travellers’ cheques and credit
underlying sense of respect for rules and authority. cards.

• Jaywalking is both illegal and frowned upon - Transport


offenders will more frequently be reprimanded
The city has a well integrated and
by onlookers than the police.
efficient public transport network.
• Although a smoking ban was recently At first glance it may appear quite
introduced to the city, most people don’t adhere to it, especially in bars. complex, but the interconnecting
It is best to ask before you light up. suburban (S-Bahn) and underground
(U-Bahn) trains aided by the tram and
• Service charges in bars/restaurants are normally included in the bill,
bus services ensure you won’t be left
although it is quite common to round up to the nearest euro in most cases.
stranded.
Useful tips The U-Bahn service closes between
• For a quick view of the main Berlin area, bus routes 100 and 200 are midnight and 5am, although the U1 and U9 run an overnight service during
double-decker buses that take you Museum Island, Unter den Linden, the the weekends. The S-Bahn runs every ten to 20 minutes. Buses wind down at
Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag, the Tiergarten, and Kaiser-Wilhelm- midnight, but offer an alternative night service. Most trams stop overnight
Gedächtniskirche. Get a map from the BVG Pavillon on Hardenbergplatz. where other transport is good, otherwise they run a limited night service.
• Some museums stay open late on Thursdays and offer free entry from 6pm. Although it might be tempting to not buy a ticket,
You can also get a three day museum pass for a reduced rate. undercover inspectors often make spot checks and hand
out fines of €40 – better to be safe than sorry!
• Tip and Zitty are fortnightly entertainments guides,
with concert, venue and exhibition information. These are If you buy single tickets, make sure you validate them
available from all newsagents. They are in German, but the before your journey.
nightlife lists are easy to decipher.
Cycling in Berlin
• Recycling is taken quite seriously – look out for
If you abhor public transport, can’t stand rush hour traffic
separate bins for plastic and glass.
and just want to feel the wind in your hair, then why

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Survival Guide Survival Guide

don’t you cycle in Berlin? It’s flatter days, but if you are spending a few markets are quite cheap. • Keep a good lookout when riding
than London and less chaotic than weeks or longer in Berlin it is well- alongside pedestrians or cars. Both
• Look before walking across a bike
Amsterdam. With over 800kms of flat worth investing your money in a bike. can be dangerous and you’re in the
path. Sometimes cyclists look for
land, parks, gardens and bike routes, worst position to go flying.
The average price to rent is €15 per someone to get angry with and will
look no further than Berlin’s cycling
day, and most places will hold onto verbally lash out. • Enjoy riding around Berlin. It is
network.
a cash deposit or your passport until good fun, keeps you fit and gets you
• Buy a bike ticket if you need to take
Many hostels will recommend or rent you bring the bike back. around with a lot less stress.
your bike on an S-or U-Bahn (outside
out bikes from a few hours to a few
The best place to look for second- of rush hour). Bikes are free when
hand bikes are flea-markets, you have a monthly ticket.
particularly Mauer Park,
• Get off your bike and walk in busy
where you can pick up a
areas, or ride on the road.
bike for as little as €40.

Fat Tire Bike Tours


Important Information
If you are hardcore and
bring or buy your own bike, www.FatTireBikeToursBerlin.com Panorama Str 1a. U-Bahn:
it’s best to remember the Alexanderplatz. Tel: + 49 30 24 04 79 91. Sun-Sat 9.30am-6pm (-8pm Apr
following, whether biking or 16 – Sep 30).
walking: The perfect combination of getting to know Berlin and getting active is
• Remember that traffic is to combine a city tour with a bike. You get to cover more space in less
on the right-hand side of time than a walking tour, and it’s more fun than being stuck on a bus.
the road. Bike paths, even You will ride along Unter den Linden, through the Brandenburg Tor and
on the footpath, also follow past the Reichstag. Stops are made at all the main sights for your happy
this rule. snaps, and the guides will give you all the history and stories about each
• Buy a pump and tyre repair place.
kit, or at least know a few There are also topic tours on Nazi Germany and the Third Reich, the
locations of Bike Doctors, Berlin Wall and Cold War, and a day trip to Potsdam. Fat Tire also rent
just in case. There is a lot of out bikes (another rental-only shop is located at Zoo Station), provide
broken glass on the streets Segway tours and offer computer and laundry services.
in Berlin.
• Get a good lock. The flea

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Survival Guide Survival Guide

Airports done in a number of ways: online; Useful words/phrases


telephone; or the olde traditional
Tegel Airport
way…visit the hostel and book a
Tel: +49 1 805 000 186 bed there and then. Booking online
however is quick, simple and often
English German
Tegel is 8km from the city centre, Yes, No Ja, Nein
cheaper. You could book via the
which is easy and cheap to reach
hostel’s website, but we recommend Please Bitte
by bus. The number 109 stops at
using hostel search engines such You’re welcome Bitte
Zoologischer Station, or you can
as HostelWorld.com. It is one of
catch the U-Bahn. Thank you Danke
the easiest search engines to use,
Schönefeld even for technophobes. Search by Good Morning Guten Morgen
Tel: +49 1 805 000 186 area, price or browse the customer Good Day Guten Tag Entrance Eingang
ratings to find the best hostel for
South of the city centre, Bus 171 Good Evening Guten Abend Exit Ausgang
you. Keep an eye out for discounts
can take you from the airport to when booking online. Goodbye Tschüss I would like... Ich möchte...
Flughafen Berlin Schönefeld railway (informal) Do you speak Sprechen Sie
station. From there you can catch How to pay: Most hostels prefer cash
on arrival but each is different so Goodbye Auf English? Englisch?
the S-Bahn or the fast regional trains (formal) Wiedersehen
keep that in mind when browsing. 1 eins
into the city, 20kms away.
A small deposit is required when How are you? Wie geht es 2 zwei
Accommodation Information booking over the internet to ensure (formal) Ihnen?
3 drei
your bed is held, and is especially How are you? Wie geht’s?
Berlin has a number of hostels that 4 vier
worth doing during busy holiday (informal)
provide all the necessary facilities:
periods (May to September). 5 fünf
bed linen; lockers; internet/WIFI; Today Heute
laundry facilities; plus added bonuses Tomorrow Morgen 6 sechs
like leisure and entertainment 7 sieben
Yesterday Gestern
facilities – bar; games room; TV room; 8 acht
and cheap breakfasts. Sometimes Excuse me Entschuldigung
these are free or you may have to Where is...? Wo ist...? 9 neun
pay a small fee. It’s a good idea to How, When, Wie, Wann, 10 zehn
go through these offers and decide Why? Warum? 20 zwanzig
what is important to you and what
Women’s toilets Damen/Frauen 50 fünfzig
you can do without.
Men’s toilets Herren/Männer 100 ein hundert
Booking a bed is easy and can be

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Day Trips Day Trips

Day trips out of Berlin Potsdam


When you just need some time out S-Bahn: 7. Potsdam Hauptbahnhof
from the hustle and bustle of crazy for regional trains.
city life, hop on a train and see
Only twenty minutes by train,
what the end of the line holds. From
Potsdam has just as much history as
castles to beaches and even film
Berlin. With the royal Park Sanssouci
studioes, Berlin’s surroundings are
and the film park Babelsberg, there
just as fun as the inner city.
are many activities to fill your
time. Historically Potsdam has been
around since AD 993, although it was
bombed heavily during World War II.
Potsdam is a small town and the
main street is your average cafe
and shopping strip. A lot of buildings
are also being rebuilt. Wander a
little further and you will find the
original Brandenburger Tor, smaller
but still impressive. The royal palace
- Schloss Sanssouci - was home to Schloss Sanssouci, built between Spend some time wandering the
the Kings of Prussia until 1918. The 1745 and 1747, is flanked on either palaces and grounds. There are 700
important Potsdam Conference was side by smaller palaces one for acres of park to explore, picnic, and
held at Cecilienhof, where the Allies paintings and one for guests. King be surprised in.
all met to discuss how to deal with Friedrich’s summer palace stands
Head back to town and take in
Germany after World War II. above four layers of steps, gardens
the film park Babelsberg. This was
and greenhouses – these were
When you walk from town, take the where many films, including those of
built into the walls to protect the
back entrance into Park Sanssouci. the silent era and Nazi propaganda
hundreds of fig trees during winter.
Walk through Friedenskirche, Church were produced. It is still an active
Maybe they were a personal favourite
of Peace, where the view between and important part of European film
of Friedrich the Great?
the concrete pillars will make you production. Some of the more recent
feel like Alice in Wonderland, looking Hike over to the Orangerie, a palace films produced there include The
out into a splash of colour with the built to house foreign royalty and Pianist, 2001; The Bourne Trilogy;
lake, trees and flowers in full bloom. guests, and climb to the top for a view Valkyrie, 2008; and The Reader,
overlooking the whole of Potsdam. 2008.

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Day Trips Day Trips

Freibad Müggelsee water is natural and flat. It’s great there to gawk will be treated with for €2-5. On a sunny day it can get
for throwing a ball around and some hostility, so make sure you’re quite busy, so head there early to
Fürstenwalder Damm 838, playing horse with your friends. As ready to fully participate in this claim a spot.
Rahnsdorf. Tel: +49 0 306 487 777. the beach does get quite crowded, aspect of German culture if you
S-Bahn: Friedrichshagen, Tram 61: If you can’t beat your sightseeing
especially on sunny weekends, choose to visit the nudist area.
Strandbad Müggelsee. May-Sept addiction, nearby is the Allied
getting there early to claim a prime
9am-6pm. Cost: €4; €2 reductions. Krumme Lanke museum, good for a visual
sun-bathing spot is recommended.
understanding of the Berlin Airlift
Though not Berlin’s most central From Alexanderplatz, the trip takes S-Bahn: Schlachtensee. Lake: Open and American presence in the city
swimming area, this is a perfectly about 45 minutes. all day, every day; free. during much of the 20th century.
pleasant sunny day outing. With The Freikörperkultur (nudist) Also close by is the Wannsee Villa,
Allied Museum: www.
volleyball and basketball courts, section of the beach is separated where the Nazis mapped out the
alliiertenmuseum.de. U-Bahn: Oskar-
snacks and drinks for sale, and a from the Freibad (open-air bathing fate of Europe’s Jews in the 1930s.
Helena-Helm. Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun
restaurant close by, this inland beach area) by 200m of forest. If you’re All in all an enjoyable day out worth
10am-6pm.
on the north shore of East Berlin’s interested in experiencing some of having if just to see another side to
biggest lake boasts a large sun- Germany’s nudist culture get off Wannsee Villa at Am Grossex the multifaced city.
bathing and swimming area. the tram at Fürstenwalder Damm/ Wannsee 56-58. Haus der Wannsee
Müggelseedamm for the FKK section Konferenze: www.ghwk.de. Mon-Sun
Although a sandy forefront, the
of the beach. Tourists who are just 10am-6pm; free. To get there, catch
Bus114 from Wannsee, get off at stop
“Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz”.
If you’re looking for a change from
the busy and hectic city centre, a
short trip to Schlachtensee Station is
a great way to spend a relaxing (and
free!) day out. Only a 100 metre walk
from the station, Krumme Lanke
is surrounded by the trees of the
Grunewald Forest and can provide
the tranquillity and rest your feet so
much desire. It’s possible to swim,
row and walk around in the area, and
you can grab lunch from a cheap but
cheerful café next to the station.
Currywurst, bratwurst and more go

25 Schöneberg
General Information GeneralSchöneberg
Information 26
Day Trips Day Trips

S a c h s e n h a u s e n thought-provoking and encompasses that the Nazis deemed as racially the GDR the remains of some 10,000
Concentration Camp and the many horrors of recent German or biologically inferior such as prisoners were found in mass graves.
history. homosexuals and Jews. The extensive horrors which took
Memorial place at Sachsenhausen during the
The camp was built in 1936 under During this period, tens of thousands
www.gedehstaette-sachsenhausen. Nazi and GDR years are memorialised
Reichsfuhrer SS Heinrich Himmler died at the camp from starvation,
de. Memorial and Museum by the national monument that
as a model for future concentration forced labour, mistreatment and
Sachsenhausen. Straße der towers over the grounds.
camps. Between 1936 and 1945 extermination. Soviet
Nationen 22, Oranienberg. S-Bahn: more than 200,000 people were and Polish forces The barren landscape
Orianenberg. Tel: +49 33 012 000. interned at Sachsenhausen. Initially, liberated the camp on and the original barracks,
Daily 8.30am-6pm. Admission free. the majority of these prisoners April 22, 1945 - sadly prison and security fencing
Reminders of Berlin’s turbulent past were political opponents of Hitler’s however, 300 of the are eerily suggestive of
are all over the city, however a visit to government: communists, social remaining inmates died the extensive suffering
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp democrats and trade unionists. This from malnutrition and which occurred. In
near Oranienberg is particularly soon widened to include anyone illnesses before they had particular the grim
the chance to leave. The sights of the mortuary,
mass grave in which these living quarters and
prisoners are interred is infirmary invite visitors to
a particularly distressing contemplate experiences
part of the camp. of the prisoners. Invest
in the audio guide for €3
The horrors of
in order to fully grasp
Sachsenhausen did not
the harrowing historical
cease after the fall of the
importance of the site.
Nazis. From August 1945
First-hand accounts
the Soviet secret police
displayed in the museums
reopened the camp for
and played on the audio
the detention of their
guide serve to emphasise
own political prisoners
the traumatic effect
and war criminals;
Hitler’s fascist rule had on
this included anyone
millions of lives.
suspected of opposition.
By 1950 more than 60,000 prisoners A visit to Sachsenhausen is an eye-
of war, suspected former Nazis and opening experience which reiterates
Soviet political dissenters, were the cold reality of World War II and
incarcerated there. After the fall of the subsequent Soviet regime.

27 Schöneberg
General Information GeneralSchöneberg
Information 28
Mitte Information
Unter den Linden is one of Berlin’s Platz is perhaps one of the busiest
most famous Boulevards, a 1.5km- places found in Berlin. Cluttered with
long stretch panning east from the shops, a central station and various
Brandenburg Gate up to Museum fountains, it is something to be seen
Island. Developed as a showpiece if only for the novelty. And of course,
since the 18th it is home to
century, where the communist
it was then commissioned TV
used as a horse- Tower - a great
riding route landmark to
to Tiergarten, locate yourself
the road has with when lost.
become a
Pretty much
gallery for
deserted during
some of Berlin’s
the GDR era,
greatest sights.
the Spandauer
Museum Island Vorstadt has been
is a must see, overtaken by
with some of squatters, artists
the worlds and anyone
finest art and sculpture. Whilst with a flair for renovation. Its focal
in the area, a quick diversion point lies in Hackeschen Markt and
to the governmental quarter of the bustling streets surrounding it,
Berlin is defiantly worthwhile. The crammed with busy (and expensive)
Spreebogen, a horseshoe shaped restaurants and shops. The area to
bend of the Spree River, houses the west – Grosse Hamburger Strasse
several buildings running in an east- and the touristy Oranienburger
west direction to symbolically tie the Strasse – formed the heart of Berlin’s
two halves of the city together. The pre-war Jewish district. At the end
Reichstag, situated in the middle of of Oranienburger Strasse lies the
this unison, is a favourite amongst graffiti-covered Tachles, an anarchic
visitors, as the glass dome gives 1990s artists’ squat still preserved as
spectacular views across the city. such today, providing a good starting
point for Berlin’s nightlife.
Nicknamed ‘Alex’ by locals, Alexander

29 Mitte Mitte 30
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Today, the Gate serves as a tourist a symbolic central point of Europe,
must-see, with families and with trains coming from Rome and
travellers posing for photos in front Copenhagen, Moscow and Paris.
of the impressive structure.
Hop on any one of the S-Bahn lines
Berlin Hauptbanhof going through this station and you
will get a great tour of the main sights
www.hbf-berlin.de. Europaplatz 1. of Mitte, including the Reichstag,
Nicknamed the “glass cathedral” the Spree and the Siegessäule. If you
by locals, this central station offers don’t have a need to travel, simply
not only an easy route to almost a quick trip here to look around is
anywhere in Berlin and Europe, worthwhile as the architecture is
but also a master class in glass and remarkable.
steel architecture. The Gothic-style
construction was built primarily
Brandenburg Gate torch-lit marches; and with the wall for the 2006 football World Cup,
enclosing the Gate in the Eastern and hosts many shops, eateries and
Pariser Platz, S-Bahn: Unter den sector in 1961, it soon became a
Linden, Bus 100/200. meeting points one would expect in
symbol of the city’s division. Nearby such a large station.
Designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans observation posts became a hot spot
and built in 1791, the Brandenburg for visiting politicians, including Designed by two Hamburg-based
Gate has become a focal point in Kennedy and Thatcher, giving them architects, Meinhard von Gerkan and
Berlin’s turbulent history. Originally, a rare glimpse at life on the other Volkin Marg, it has become Europe’s
it was recognised as a symbol of side. biggest train hub, boasting a capacity
German solidarity, as it looks out onto of 300,000 travellers, running on
Sitting on top of the Gate is the 1,100 trains per day. Unlike other
the impressive Siegessäule, marking equally historic Quadriga, the horse-
Prussian military victories. With stations in Berlin and across Europe,
drawn chariot that was once snatched its cleanliness and peacefulness are
many of Berlin’s main roads leading up by Napoleon and relocated to
towards it, the Gate is something dominant, with little to no graffiti or
France (only to be returned to its rubbish in sight.
almost impossible to miss. original home a few years later). The
The site has witnessed many GDR also did its own fiddling with the Since its initial drawing-board stages,
important events in Berlin’s history, statue, including the removal of the the station was always planned
including being a meeting place for cross and it being turned around to to observe a north-south, east-
revolutionaries in 1848 ad 1918; a face the West during the cold-war west axis, cutting through the long
favoured rallying point for the Nazis’ era. circle line. This axis now serves as

31 Mitte Mitte 32
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Neue Wache Teeming with important historical the building isn’t packed with Nikolaiviertel
(New Guard House) sites, Unter den Linden is indisputably tourists.
fascinating yet sometimes
(St Nicholas Quarter)
Unter den Linden 4. S-Bahn: Unter Bombing from the Second World War
exhausting. The Neue Wache (or New U-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. Combined
den Linden. Daily 10am – 6pm. left the building scarred, and as a
Guard House) is perfect for quiet ticket for Nikolaikirche, Knoblaus-
Entrance Free. result, in need of serious repair. From
contemplation: a momentary repose Haus and Ephraim-Palais: €3-5. Free
1960, the GDR restored the building,
amidst a hectic day of sightseeing. Wednesdays.
renaming it “Memorial to the Victims
The mourning sculpture by Käthe
of Fascism and Militarism”. Inside the A short walk from bustling
Kollwitz stands alone in the centre
chamber, an eternal flame burned. Alexanderplatz one finds a quiet
of the room, as a powerful symbol of
In 1969 the Neue Wache housed the square centred around the
the emotional torment that ensued
remains of an Unknown Soldier and Nikolaikirche and Nikolaikirchplatz.
after the Second World War.
concentration camp prisoner. In Although the so-called Nikolaiviertel
It was the first building designed by 1993, after German reunification, appears to be one of the last
the important German architect Karl the hall was declared as the “Central remainders of medieval Berlin, aside
Friedrich Schinkel in Berlin (1816- Memorial of the Federal Republic of from the Nikolaikirche, founded in
1818). It notably emphasizes the Germany”. Having been described as 1240, most of the original buildings
popular German Neo-Classical style a “monumentally void interior hall”, in this area were either destroyed by
of architecture, which swept through the Neue Wache is nonetheless bombing or pulled down during the
Germany in the 19th century. Until worth a visit for its atmospheric and 1930s and Soviet era. In a small twist
the end of the monarchy in 1918, emotional resonance. of irony, many buildings were rebuilt
the Neue Wache functioned as the in 1987 by the GDR government
royal guard house. Since then, this Fernsehturm to look like the originals, using
compact, yet simultaneously stately w w w. b e r l i n e r f e r n s e h t u r m . d e . photographs from the 1920s as
building has served as a memorial for Panoramastrasse 1a. U-Bahn: reference.
victims of war. Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 2 423 333. For historic interest, there is a series
The German architect Heinrich Mar-Oct 9am-12am, Nov-Feb 10am- of placards on various buildings
Tessenow first made changes to 12am. Price: €4.50-9.50. in the area giving information on
the building in 1930-31, creating a Towering above Berlin, the personalities who lived there or
“Memorial for Those Who Fell in the Fernsehturm or T.V. tower serves as events which took place. In terms of
Great War”. He inserted the oculus a beacon for visitors and locals alike museums, there is the Nikolaikirche,
in the centre of the ceiling, through to orientate themselves, since it can the Knoblaus-Haus and the Ephraim-
which light filters into the dark be seen from all corners of the city. Palais, together offering a fairly
chamber, creating an atmospheric The structure offers 360˚ views of comprehensive portrait of Berlin’s
Neue
and almost eerie sensation – when Berlin with a rotating café on the history from its foundation to the

33 Mitte Mitte 34
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
nineteenth century. the cross remained. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
This is a neighbourhood that plays www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Stresemannstraße 90. Tel: +49 3 026 394 311.
on its medieval heritage as much as Memorial: Accessible at any time. Information Centre: Apr-Sep 10am-8pm,
possible, from cafés proclaiming to Oct-Mar 10am-7pm. Admission free.
have been established in the 13th
century, to antiquarian booksellers The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is one of the largest in the city
taking advantage of the archaic and consists of 2,711 concrete blocks covering 19,000 square metres. Each
atmosphere. However, there is block varies slightly in height and is built on unevenly sloping ground. The
an obvious attempt to cash in on memorial is accessible from all sides, allowing visitors to find their own path
this – you will find a lot of souvenir through the grid pattern, although there are specially marked routes through
shops around Nikolaikirchplatz and the memorial for wheelchair users.
the restaurants tend to be a little The Information Centre, located under the south-east corner of the memorial,
overpriced. The square also backs gives an explicit and emotional account of Jewish persecution between
onto the river which offers more 1933 and 1945. Photographs,
restaurants and a nice spot to eat or personal accounts and biographies
rest. emphasise the harsh reality of
upper floor, completing one rotation the harassment, expulsion, and
every 30 minutes. extermination of entire families.
Here you can find information
The Fernsehturm is 368m high and
that documents the geographic
was completed in 1969. The tower
spread of genocide as well as being
was built with the intention of
presented with the number of
demonstrating how technologically
victims from each occupied country
advanced the East was. This symbol
further highlighting the extent of
of progress became a source of
these horrific events. There is also
embarrassment for the German
a room where visitors can search
government. When hit with direct
for victims’ names in a database
sunlight, the tower creates the
that contains more than three
reflection of a cross, the same
million entries.
symbol the government had tried so
hard to banish. The West Germans Although admission is free, audio
called this “the Pope’s Revenge” guides available for €3. If you visit
since all crosses had been removed on a Sunday at 4pm you can take
from East German churches. No the guided tour, in English, also at
matter what the East Germans did, a cost of €3.

35 Mitte Mitte 36
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Hamburger Bahnhof and the strong association Beuys works on display from pop arts front
had with some of the art world’s man Andy Warhol, including ‘Mao’
w w w. s m b . m u s e u m / s m b / h b f / . most unconventional and reputable (1973). The real gems are found in
U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Hauptbahnhof. artists. the quotes scattered around from the
Tel: +49 3 039 783 411. Open: charismatic and controversial Joseph
Tues-Sun:10am-6pm. Price: €6/€3 A modest glimpse into the bizarre
Beuys, the clashing placement of
concession. and borderline ridiculous nature
life-like pieces opposing walls of
of contemporary modern art itself,
An abstract collection of works, absurdity, and the general conceited
the gallery undeniably reeks of
from German artist and theorist nature of many of the passing
inspiration and creativity that either
Joseph Beuys to Andy Warhol, visitors.
inspires or repels the passing masses.
are displayed beneath the roof of Although guaranteed to split the Neue Synagoge
this former railway station turned
contemporary art museum. Open
opinions of visitors, the collection is (New Synagogue)
well worth a look if not for ‘what is’
since 1996, the surreal collection displayed then ‘why’ it is displayed. www.cjudaicum.de, Oranienburger
has been in the making since the Str 28-30. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:
mid 1970’s, and highlights both the Most visitors pop in for a quick Oranienburger Tor or Friedrichstr. and damaged, this synagogue was
limitless boundaries of abstract art glimpse of the numerous original Tel. 030 880 28 316. Sun-Thurs salvaged by Wilhelm Krutzfeld, the
10am-6pm, Fri: 10am-5pm. Closed district police chief of the time,
on Saturdays and Jewish Holidays. who forced the arsonists to leave
Cupola open to visitors April- claiming it was under protection as
September. Price: €1-5. a city landmark.
The New Synagogue of Berlin with Although services continued
its golden cupola rises high above afterwards until 1940, it was then
the center of the city. Though it has taken over and used as a storage
faced desecration and destruction, place for uniforms. Consequently in
it still remains a city landmark. Built 1943, the synagogue was bombed by
in 1866, the synagogue was once the the Allied Forces, severely damaging
center of Jewish worship housing it. In 1958, the destroyed main hall
over 3000 congregants. was torn down, only the front of the
The rise of the Nazis, though, building remaining.
hindered this community. During the However in 1988, the main dome
November 1938 pogroms, known as and the two corner towers were
Reichs-Kristallnacht, a night where restored to look exactly as they
most Jewish sites were vandalized

37 Mitte Mitte 38
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
did before the destruction. It now Reichstag across the city. offered on Tuesdays (outside of
functions as a community center parliamentary sessions), book in
Platz der Republik 1. S-Bahn: Unter The Reichstag was built in the late
and contains a permanent exhibit, advance.
den Linden. Tel: +49 3 022 730 027. 19th century as a parliamentary
titled “Open ye the Gates”, which
Mon-Sun 8am-12am. office, but in reality had little purpose
features pictures and documents on
under the reign of Kaiser Wilhelm I.
Jewish history, and more specifically One of Berlin’s most striking In 1918 the Weimar Republic was
the synagogue’s history, as well as landmarks, the Reichstag, which declared here from a window by
showcasing artifacts found during today houses the German parliament, Philip Scheidemann and for the
the restoration. The upper floor is has undoubtedly played a pivotal role next 15 years it controlled the first
used for temporary exhibits as well in Berlin’s history and is definitely democratic body in Germany. The
as ceremonies and lectures. The worth a visit. The original imposing Reichstag fire in 1933 however gave
synagogue is still used for services, neoclassical facade is contrasted Hitler the perfect opportunity to
though only seating eighty members with a striking glass cupola supported exercise an emergency degree, thus
as it is no longer the main synagogue by a soaring mirrored column, which effectively allowing him dictatorial
of the Jewish community. offers stunning 360-degree views power over the country.
At the end of World War II the Buchstabenmuseum
Reichstag was symbolic of the
Allied victory, when Russian soldiers
(Museum of Letters)
positioned the Soviet flag on the w w w. b u c h s t a b e n m u s e u m . d e .
roof. The building was then left Leipzigerstrasse 49. U-Bahn:
mainly unoccupied until the fall Spittelmarkt. Tel: +49 1 774 201 587.
of the wall in 1990, when the View by appointment only.
government of a reunified Germany
If you are interested in letterforms,
finally decided to resurrect it as its
Buchstabenmuseum is worth a visit.
new parliament. Following extensive
The museum is made up of two rooms
remodeling under plans from British
of large-scale type examples, mostly
architect Sir Norman Foster, it once
interesting signage from buildings.
again provides a cornerstone of
The space is small, but there is still
the Regierungsviertel (government
plenty to look at. They have a good
quarter) in Berlin.
variety of different type styles, from
Queues are expected, arrive very modern san serifs to black letter.
early or late in the day to avoid It is great to see attention brought
disappointment. Tours in English to an area of design which is often

39 Mitte Mitte 40
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Tacheles from all over the world that head lease has recently expired however,
there to work and live. and with the property owner’s bank
www.tacheles.de. Oranienburgerstr. seeking administration rights, it is
54-56a. U-Bahn: Oranienburgerstr. The Kunsthaus (art-house) Tacheles
more uncertain than ever before as
Tel: +49 302 826 185. was built at the beginning of the 20th
to the future of this unique cultural
century as a large enclosed space for
Originally created as a non-profit site. Problems are also had with the
small businesses, before becoming
organisation, a vision that it still various bars, also on site, which all
a department store, and has since
retains to this day, Tacheles is originally had leases agreed with
served many purposes including
currently a key centre the Tacheles organisation. Currently
housing an SS office.
for art creation and only one bar continues to pay rent
The building was
exhibition near the and this causes a large amount of
damaged during the
centre of Berlin. tension.
Second World War
Not to be confused and only occasionally Despite the ongoing legal wrangling
with the separate used throughout the and the internal problems it has,
collection of bars, Cold War. The section Tacheles still has plans and high
commonly referred to that stands today is hopes for the future. These include
as Studio 54, that are just a small part of the creation of a foundation to
scattered behind and the original building. support non-profit cultural projects;
in the lower section the formation of a limited company
of the building, it In 1990, shortly
to outsource economic activities;
aims to focus on the after the collapse
the creation of a sculpture park
creative processes of the wall and two
on the roof and the expansion of
behind art and tries months before the
brand marketing to gain revenue for by profitable organisations and
to do away with the building was due to
cultural projects. establishments with a heavily-
organisational ties be demolished, an
that official museums artists’ initiative Tacheles is key to retaining the refined corporate image. Despite
hold. Housed in an old group called Tacheles, spirit of cooperation and the ‘art for this though, and the uncertain future
department store, the building has a which translates as art’s sake’ attitude brought about ahead, Tacheles is keen to take the
strong appeal with graffiti adorning plain or honest in Yiddish, occupied in its formation almost 20 years original aims of the organisation into
every visible space, and all sorts of the building. From then on the future ago. Yet whilst this is an admirable the future and create an artistic
characters roaming freely within. of the building, and the non-profit position to take, and arguably the legacy for generations to come.
As a result of its volatile history and organisation housed within, has been cornerstone that makes Tacheles
unique atmosphere it holds a strong far from certain. A lease was agreed such an attraction today, it is also
attraction for tourists, especially with the current owners, with a token an aspect that causes it to struggle
backpackers, as well as the artists rent of €0.50 paid each month. This in a modern world dominated

41 Mitte Mitte 42
Arts & Culture Food & Drink
Hackesche Höfe
Berlin’s Street Food
Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41. S-Bahn:
Hackesche Markt. Berlin is no way lacking in the fast-food culture. In fact, it may be the best
The ivy grows up the walls, framing part of Berlin for the wallet-weary backpacker. On any street, travellers
the windows and even trying to can find stands selling Döner kebab, China-Box or Currywurst.
creep into them. One courtyard has In a country known for its hearty meat and potato dishes, Chinese take-
a children’s play area, another has a out may seem an odd choice but the heaping dish of noodles, veggies and
small fountain. fried egg is now equally as typical as a rotwurst stand.
A newly refurbished complex Berlin loves its simple currywurst dish; a sausage sprinkled with curry
of buildings that run from powder and smothered in plenty of ketchup. You can ask to forego the
Oranienburgerstrasse and sauce if it’s not to your taste.
Rosenthaler as far as Sophienstrasse
is what makes up the 20th century Chips are found on many a street corner as well. Besides the usual dipping
Hackesche Höfe (Höfe means yard) sauces of mustard, ketchup or mayo, many stands try to shake it up a
complex. little with some unique creations. These could range from mango curry
to peanut sauce, jalapeno-cheese or even apple sauce. The best location
Originally designed by Kurt Berendt to try out these condiments is Becker’s Fritten, located on Oranienburger
and August Endell in 1906, the Höfe interconnecting courtyards are filled
with bars, restaurants, boutiques and Strasse across from Studio 54.
was damaged during the war, but
has since been restored to a place of even its own theatre. The courtyards Another form of quick and cheap eating happens in the numerous Berlin
many means. are beautiful and green, transporting bakeries. This is most often a healthier and incredibly satisfying way to
you away from the hustle and bustle eat through the day. For only a few dozen cents, most bakeries offer up
Although the buildings above are of the city. great fresh bread. Not to be missed are the pumpkin seed rolls. There are
offices and apartments, the nine also donuts, danishes and cakes, but the highlight in these establishments
Designer shops sport trendy clothes,
quirky ornaments and arty books. are the fresh sandwiches. Diners can shell out no more than €2 for either
The Ampelman store is hidden in one a slice of baked bread with cold mince, pickles and onions or large
of the courtyards where you can buy sandwiches layered with sliced eggs, lettuce and herbed mayo.
merchandise with the little green While Berlin can be a little pricy in the way of admission fees and
‘walk’ and red ‘don’t walk’ men. shopping, be assured that you will have no problem eating cheap, though
In a city developing so fast, and new it may not always be very healthy. Thankfully, the city provides a great
concrete structures appearing daily, setting for exploring on foot, allowing you to lap up these goodies and
it’s nice to have a hidden piece of then burn them away.
natural beauty in the city.

43 Mitte Mitte 44
Food & Drink Food & Drink
Zur Letzten Instanz Theodor Tucher Those looking for something else
will find it hard to choose between
www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Waisenstrasse 14-16. U-Bahn: Klosestrasse, www.thementeam.de/neu/tucher/. a stylized currywurst plate, gigantic,
Alexanderplatz. Tel: +49 302 425 528. Mon-Sat: 12pm-1am. Pariser Platz 6A. S-Bahn: Unter Den fresh salads topped with spiced nuts
Linden. Tel: +49 22 489 464. Mon- and fried pita bread, hearty meat-
From the moment you walk through the tiny, unassuming doorway you are
Sun: 9am-1am. Price: €10-25 and-potato stews or freshly dressed
immediately greeted by a lavish ceramic throne. Sit at this throne and you’ll
find yourself occupying the same spot as Napoleon did when he frequented This gem could easily be shrugged baguettes, just to name a few. The
the Zur Letzten Instanz. His bust ever peering over patrons’ shoulders as they off, taken for another overpriced, desserts will also surely tantalize
squirm to find a comfortable position in a chair that could have only been posh, tourist trap. However Theodor the diner with plates such as mousse
designed to fit the Lilliputian emperor. Tucher, tucked away in the right of rose petals with chocolate
hand corner of Pariser medallions and
Immaculately fusing history and typical German cuisine, this quaint eatery
Platz under the mango salad. There is
stands as Berlin’s oldest inn serving the Eastern side of the city since 1621.
looming shadow of the even something new
The decor is simple and unpretentious, all the while keeping its untouched
Brandenburger Tor, to discover with their
charm immaculately preserved. The atmosphere is pleasant and calm, yet
offers so much more fresh selection of
reminiscent of days when the inn housed raucous booze ups.
than good, if a little unique drinks such as
The food is typical Berlin style: Pickled pigs knuckles, bloodwurst, red cabbage pricey, fare. strawberry punch and
and dumplings. But the flagship dish of the inn must certainly be their beautiful red-currant spritzer,
The dining area is
roast leg of pork. Nestled in a bed of rotweil and au jus, it is almost impossible crisp juices that come
quite large, both
to keep the meat from falling off the bone, and even harder still to ignore in a jug, rather than a
inside and outside
the beautifully crunchy and decadent crackling that guards the large bone single glass.
and it is possible to
bisecting the impossibly tender flesh. A must have for meat lovers.
choose a seat with an After a delicious
A superbly priced restaurant, the most expensive dish runs at around €16. armrest, looking out meal in this small
over the square for an café, the diner can
afternoon of drinking head upstairs to the
and people watching. literary house, a
loft with hardwood
The highlight of Theodor Tucher is
floors, walls lined with old books and
their Lunch-special trio, changing
old Victorian style furniture. This
daily to fit the mood of the chef.
upstairs haven is nearly soundproof,
The small plates range from chicken
blocking out the clamor of the other
and potatoes with mustard sauce to
diners below, leaving the guest in a
a goat risotto. Included in the special
relaxed stupor for however long they
price of €13.90, a dessert also comes
would like to visit after their meal.
at the end of the meal.

45 Mitte Mitte 46
Nightlife Nightlife
mid-evening snacks. If you want a tracks of the Hackescher Markt
low-key alfresco evening, then look S-Bahn, this dimly lit hole in the wall
no further. is a hotspot for colourful characters
that will guarantee an interesting
Bang Bang and usually entertaining night.
www.bangbang-club.de. Neue The dress code varies from drag and
Promenade 10. S-Bahn: Hackescher burlesque to teenagers sporting a
Markt. Tel: +49 3 060 405 310. Price: casual attire of shorts and T-shirts.
€5-10. The music as well is diverse with
Her fangs tore into DJs spinning 60s
the body of a raw pop hits, indie
whole pineapple, tracks, and even
the juice causing the heavy riffs of
red lipstick to drip Black Sabbath and
down her chin Rage Against the
and pool onto the Machine. The bar
stage. Dressed in unfortunately is
burlesque, she not cheap, beer
reared her head runs €3 for .33L
back and spit the and cocktails are
tropical pulp into €6-7.
Strand Bar Mitte chairs by the river and watch the
world go by, or try your hand at salsa faces of a screaming Berlin’s nightlife
www.strandbar.de. Monbijoustraße on the dance floor. crowd pumping typically begins
1-3. U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Alexanderplatz. fists of devil horns. quite late, in fact
Mon-Sun 10am-late. Be it day or night, the Strand Bar is Bleeding eardrums pressed against most clubs are not in full swing until
a delightfully relaxed environment speakers as the tongue of this rock
Strand Bar Mitte is well known for well after midnight. So if you decide
which is frequented by all ages. goddess slipped pieces of the luscious
having started the urban beach bar to show up at the Bang Bang around
Watch out for the setting sun tinting fruit between audience members’
trend, for which Berlin is now famous. 11pm, make sure that you have
the façade of the Bodemuseum drooling lips.
This unique bar sits alongside the the energy to exercise your dance
across the river; it is particularly
River Spree, overlooking Museum If you’ve been searching for an skills and head-banging fury to the
beautiful. The fairy lights, urban
Island. Connected to the theatre intense nightlife scene of live music, early hours of the morning. Visit the
beach and deck-chairs all add to
next door, it is a fantastic place to sit tight DJ mixes, and kisses for sale, website to see the event lineup and
the holiday atmosphere, while the
and enjoy a cold beer at reasonable then the hunt ends at the Bang Bang choose the night that best suits your
pizzeria by the bar makes for great
prices. Lounge in the comfy deck Club in Mitte. Under the thunderous interests.

47 Mitte Mitte 48
Prenzlauer Berg Information

Today Prenzlauer Berg is one of the


most picturesque areas in Berlin.
The area is dominated by wide open
boulevards and many of its buildings
are now occupied by übercool cafes,
shops and restaurants. As a result
the area has undergone a process
of gentrification since reunification
with many of the buildings renovated
after a period of neglect under the
East German government.
Prenzlauer Berg is known for having
a high proportion of young families;
attracting British and American
immigrants, who are drawn by the
area’s continuing reputation for
art; and for students. Only a few
old buildings give a reminder of the
area’s past. Created in the latter
half of the 19th century under the
plans of James Hobrecht, it was
initially intended to be a working-
class district. After a while the area
became known for punks and then,
having survived much of the post-war
rebuilding, it subsequently became
a hotspot for students, intellectuals
and artists under the GDR. A place
for alternative forms of culture was
established and as a consequence it
was a place where resistance could
be found.

49 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 50


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Kulturbrauerei Jüdischer Friedhof


w w w. k u l t u r b r a u e r e i - b e r l i n . Schönhauser Alle 22-25. U-Bahn:
de Schonhauser Allee 36. Senefelder Platz. Tel: 925 08 33.
U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straβe. Mon-Thu 8am- 4pm, Fri 8am-1pm.
Tel: +49 3044 35 260.
Along a nondescript road lies a
Once a Schultheiss brewery, Berlin’s poignant place of remembrance.
Kulturbrauerei is now the ultimate The Jüdischer Friedhof is Berlin’s
venue for exhibitions, plays, concerts oldest Jewish cemetery and, like
and markets. The artistic nerve any cemetery, there is something
centre of the creative city includes of a sombre air upon entering. This
an eight-screen cinema, a Pool and is perhaps even more significant in
Cigar bar and even a cooking school Berlin when considering the context
for experimental culinary lovers. Why of history. Unlike other Jewish
not head to SODA Club for €4 Salsa cemeteries in Berlin it survived the
classes every Thursday and Sunday wrath of the Nazi state. Nevertheless
before practicing your moves at the damage was still done in 1988 when
evening Salsa party? Or for a unique it was attacked by East German neo-
fortnightly shopping experience, Nazis with fallen tombstones providing
visit The White Market for locally the evidence. Much remains though
made clothing and accessories from and the canopy of trees provides a Kollwitzplatz The platz also includes a great
the likes of Barbara Viktor and fitting resting place. Indeed nature is playground, and despite its closed
U-Bahn: Senefelder Platz
Friederike Porscha. a key theme when visiting, as moss surroundings, it is still possible to hear
and ivy are now beginning to wrap Influenced by the designs of Reinhold the bustle of various eateries which
themselves around the weathered Linger, Kollwitzplatz is great for any surround the platz and provide the
tomb stones. The rows of tomb number of activities. Some may be chance for pleasant refreshment. The
stones provide a sense of order but inclined to sunbathe, while others platz itself is named after the famous
this is broken by the many small may want to practice their table- artist who lived in the area, Katty
paths that criss-cross the cemetery tennis skills, or simply relax with Kollwitz, and whose statue watches
and provide a more natural feel. As a friends. Alternatively, once past the over you. Designed by Gustav Seitz it
consequence small corners can easily trees that encircle the plaz, the is very much in keeping with Kollwitz’
be found, especially at the end of clearing provides a perfect spot for own work. Indeed the presence of a
the cemetery, allowing that poignant that reflective moment or a chance work that conveys such sombreness
moment. Famous burials Mayerbeer to simply admire the ornate buildings and reflection is a theme that could
and artist Max Liebermann. that are a feature of the area. describe the whole platz.

51 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 52


Arts & Culture Shopping

Who Killed Bambi?


w w w. w h o k i l l e d b a m b i . o r g
Eberswalder Straße 26, 10437. Tel:
+49 4849 4574. Opening hours: Mon-
sat 12pm – 8pm
Note: this clothes store has nothing
to do with Disney. Offering a
generous selection of alternative
attire for both men and women, Who
Killed Bambi is the place to go for
fun, rock/punk fashion. Housing a
range of street-wear labels from the
locally produced Made in Paradise
to European favourite Desigual,
Prenzlauer Berg’s kooky shop is the
Volkspark Weinberg cobalt hills amid a dune sea, blue largest of three in Berlin. Browse the
pyramids spurting water, and a racks of kitsch, beaded hangers for
Weinbergsweg, between Rosenthaler behemoth of a jungle gym, even the that attention-grabbing purchase,
Platz and Fehbelliner Str. U-Bahn: most grown-up of people will feel the or lust after the unique Who Killed
Rosenthaler Platz. urge to summon their inner child. The Bambi bowling bags.
Don’t let finances get in the way of shallow wading pool provides a nice
fun! There are many activities in place to cool your feet, or your bum A little something extra ...
Berlin that are free of charge. Not for that matter after receiving slide-
least of these are the parks and burns over on the play structures. Photobooths
playgrounds scattered about the city. Even if you stop by in the daytime
and a younger crowd occupies the Kastanienalle, Eberswalder Straße U2.
For those who are mature enough to
admit they still enjoy a good tire games equipment, there are still Ever wondered where the old fashioned photo booths which gave you
swing or jungle gym, then Volkspark two cafes, the lily pond, and the four different passport photos went? Well it seems they have been all
Weinberg will provide an enjoyable rose garden to enjoy. Merely sitting scattered around Berlin. Walking along Kanstanienalle or outside Warshaw
cost-free evening. During the day on a bench listening to the church Strasse s-bhan station, you could easily pass them by. But keep your eye
this park is dominated by parents bells of the nearby Zionskirche is a keen - for only 2€ fun memories can be captured (and can also be used
and their children, as nightfalls this relaxing experience. So if your wallet to make your friends at home jealous!)
place is left empty for the bigger is feeling the burn, don’t be afraid to
let the kid within you out!

53 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg


54
Shopping Shopping

Interview with Karin Nieto, those shopping ruts everyone gets beginning: outdoor summer shopping Describe your typical ‘The White
Organiser of The White into sometimes. under rows of white canopies. Plus, Market’ customer.
the name suits the philosophy of
Market. Berlin is a creative city, bustling with
the market: all products are unique
The White Market attracts people
talented designers, but shopping from all walks of life who have
TheWhiteMarket.com. and hand-made; the exact opposite
can be inconvenient and uninspiring one thing in common: an eye for
KulturBrauerei, Schönhauser Allee of what you might find in a black
sometimes. Since moving here two fashion. Tourists come in droves
36. U-Bahn: Eberswalder Platz. 12pm market.
years ago, we’ve been flying every and Berlin locals are equally excited
– 7pm. Log on to the website for season to New York How do you select the designers that by the prospect of a new shopping
the next The White or Paris to get our exhibit at The White Market, and experience to discover. You are
Market event. fashion fix. In these how many do you choose to show at located at KulturBrauerei in the
The White Market is cities, shopping any one event? popular shopping area of Prenzlauer
a new fashion event more than just a Berg. How did you decide on the area
Each designer must submit images
based in the diverse means to an end, in which The White Market is held,
of their collections, and we review
shopping area of it’s an experience. and how important do you think this
them based on the following criteria:
Prenzlauer Berg. We recognized is to the project’s success?
original design, craftsmanship, and
Locals and tourists Berlin already had
small production runs. We show Prenzlauer Berg has a very chilled
alike visit the chic, all the elements:
approximately 40 designers per out atmosphere; it’s trendy and not
outdoor market for talented designers,
market, and we make sure there is overly-touristy like other districts
a taste of original good quality
an equal number between clothing in Berlin. The neighbourhood has
Berlin craftsmanship craftsmanship,
and accessory designers. a perfect blend of a young creative
at KulturBrauerei, the city’s cultural endless sources of inspiration, etc.
set that keeps the area exciting and
hub. All we had to do was connect the What items can we find on sale at
inspiring and young families with
elements. Our concept was simple: The White Market and is there an
Having hosted only four events a more disposable income keep it
bring the best designers under one average price range?
of its kind so far, organiser Karen prosperous. The KulturBrauerei is
roof (or umbrella in our case) and
Nieto speaks to us about this unique The White Market only exhibits incredibly charming, and it’s a Berlin
present their collections in a pretty
project and the exciting prospects handmade items from independent landmark. The fact that everyone
white package – and voila, the White
for The White Market. designers with non mass-produced knows it, means we don’t have to
Market shopping experience was
collections. In order to remain give directions and the location gave
When did you first come up with born.
true to the initial concept of the the market a sense of establishment
the idea for The White Market and How did you come up with the name White Market, it is exclusively a from the get go.
what made you decide to pursue ‘The White Market’? fashion market selling clothing and
this venture? Are you a designer yourself, and if so
accessories. The price range is very
We chose the name ‘The WhiteMarket’ do you exhibit any of your items at
The idea for the White Market was broad starting at ten euros goingup
because that’s how we visualized the The White Market?
conceived in 2008, during one of to 200 euros.

55 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 56


Shopping Shopping
integral role in local fashion. Flohmarkt am Mauerpark
Berliners take the term ‘eighties or (Flea Market)
nineties throwback’ to a new extrem
e that stretches into each fibre of its Bernauer Straße 63 – 64. U-Bahn U8 Everything from household goods
aesthetic culture from furniture to Bernauer Straße Sunday 9am – 5pm to clothing, records, books and
architecture and clothing. Berlin’s bicycles can be found here. There’s
Prenzlauer Berg may not have undoubtedly a lot of junk, but a good
endless array of second hand shops the alternative edge of areas like
and various flea markets caters to rummage through the cardboard
Friedrichshain or Kreuzberg, but boxes should yield a worthwhile
ones every nostalgic whim. The White the now affluent area retains some
Market has been embraced because reward. Prices start off pretty low,
of its bohemian cool. This makes it but if not don’t be afraid to barter,
though it exclusively presents is new the perfect place for secondhand
things, it encourages home-grown as there are plenty of bargains to be
shoppers who want to snap up had. Vintage dresses can be as cheap
individuality and creativity: integral some of the residents’ castoffs. The
facets of Berlin fashion. as three euro, books from about 50
massive market on Bernauer Straße cents, and bicycles for about 30 to
Where do you see The White Market is on every Sunday, and with plenty 50 euro. It gets very busy so be sure
five years from now? of great food stalls and bars, it’s to leave plenty of time to make your
easy to spend the whole day here. way through the crowds.
As a destination for trend forecasters
and shopaholics alike –a Berlin fashion
establishment. We have already
received international interest in
the White Market which would be
the natural next step for us to take
Yes, I’m an architect and clothing for the market
designer. I’m launching a line
of jewellery to sell at the White to grow organically. In addition, the
Market – I just need to find time to possibility of a White Market label is
make it! also on the cards. The label would
present collections of selected
What do you think sets Berlin apart market designers. The designers
from the rest of the world in terms would change along with the seasons
of fashion and style? and the White Market label would
Berlin’s unique history plays an serve, like the market, as a spring-
board into the global world of
fashion.

57 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg


58
Shopping Shopping
exhibition-style store in Prenzlauer and is a perfect spot for a picnic or Supaife Kiosk
Berg and browse through the sunbathing in the summer.
collection of covers decorating the Raumerstr. 40, 10437 Berlin, Phone:
shop’s interior in order to customise 44 67 88 26, Email: kiosk@supalife.
Pigasus Poster Gallery de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun. closed,
your chosen style. From pretty florals,
to iconic local images like the Berlin www.pigasus-gallery.de, Torstrasse U-Bahn: Senefelderplatz
TV tower, the range of designs is 62. U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. Supalife Kiosk is a must for anyone
seemingly endless. Team these with Tel: +49 3 028 493 697. Mon-Sat interested in street art or graphic
an additional inset in black or orange 2pm-7pm design. This store sells both books on
to accommodate for individual, A gallery that is a little bit different, the subjects as well as small-edition
practical needs. The cushioned Pigasus offers a broad range of prints and artists books. Silk-screened
Bürokrat can be inserted to hold a posters for sale. Among them t-shirts, postcards and stickers round
15” laptop, while the Rabenvater are designs that were originally out the selection. Supalife Kiosk also
offers space for baby food, nappies printed for film, theatre, opera and serves as a gallery for art exhibitions,
and anything else the little one might exhibitions. There are both vintage with the openings often featuring
need. Insets start at €25 for a simple and more contemporary posters, live music. With a diverse collection
Tausche separator, with the more expensive and those on show are continually of various kinds of graphic arts, this
www.tausche.de Raumersraße 8. laptop compartment costing €55. changing. Prices range from €15, to store is the perfect place to pick up
U-Bahn: Eberswalder Straße. Tel: +49 over €200 for rarer pieces. There an affordable work of art.
30 40301770. Opening Hours: Mon- Flohmarkt am Arkonaplatz is also a good selection of CDs by
Fri 11am – 8pm, Sat 11am – 6pm. U-Bahn U8 Bernauer Straße Sunday Polish, Russian and Ukrainian artists
9am – 5pm to buy.
Tausche is no ordinary bag shop.
This contemporary store sells Berlin- Arkonaplatz is a smaller market, Go downstairs and there is a small
made, multi-functional, multi- with higher quality goods and prices but substantial enough changing
faceted messenger bags which are to match. The focus is on vintage exhibition, focusing on the work
unique in their ability to alter both and retro clothes and household of one particular artist or theme.
purpose and appearance. Tausche goods, with a particularly impressive A movement known as the Polish
bags are available in eight different selection of sunglasses. The market is Poster School emerged in the 50s,
sizes (ranging from €45 - €139) and also good for vinyl enthusiasts, with the main protagonist being Henryk
come with two exchangeable cover plenty of boxes filled with records. Tomaszewski. Polish poster designs
flaps upon purchase. Just unzip There is also a great collection tend to have a handmade feel, even
the front and transform the bag’s of interesting old record players. the more modern ones, and often
aesthetic in one swift movement Afterwards, you can relax in the contain a political statement. Browse
with another cover. Visit the pretty little park next door, which is and enjoy at your own leisure.

59 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 60


Shopping Shopping

Sentimental Journey
Husemannstr. 5, 10435 Berlin, Phone:
030/44328664, Email: journey@
arcor.de, Mon.-Sat. 12am-7pm, Sun.
closed, U-Bahn: Eberswalder Str.
With the funky sequined dresses
hanging outside and a stencil of Elvis
above the door, you know you are
in for a real vintage treat when you
enter Sentimental Journey. Inside,
clothing, shoes and hats from the early
20th century until the present await.
Sentimental Journeys is everything a
vintage shop should be, with crowded
racks of dresses, scary mannequin
heads with ostentatious hats, and Stiefelkombinat ranging from fetish ware to 60s go-go
even a white and black checked boots. There is also a large collection
Eberswalder Str. 21/22, Tel: 51 05 of vintage clothing, mostly from the
floor. To top it all off, in one room
12 34, Mon.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri. 1960s through to the 1980s. Variety
there is a shrine to Elvis, complete
and Sat. 10am-12pm, Sun. closed. abounds, with everything from
with a piano and velvet stool, a
large cut out of The King himself, Stiefelkombinat is overwhelming to chunky knit sweaters to bathing suits
and a ceramic band arranged on top say the least. The experience begins and 80s prom dresses. Crammed up
of the piano. Many treasures await before even entering the premises, to the rafters, the shop can be a little
discovery in this store: collapsible top as its contents spill out onto the hard to take in fully and discover
hats, cocktail dresses, and even a hat street, making it hard to miss. that perfect find. But when you
featuring a knitted grand piano made Inside, shag rugs and furry stools do, it is the result of an enjoyable
by the owner herself. Although the are used in abundance, providing treasure hunt through the fashions of
prices may be on the higher end (said a suitably retro decor on which to yesteryear. Next door there is also
hat costing upwards of 100 euro), display the clothes. Shoes dominate men’s clothing and shoes, as well as
it is still worth a look if just for the the secondhand merchandise. There furniture more likely to be spotted in
feeling of nostalgia for a time when is a wide selection of both boots a 70s sci-fi flick. Prices here are not
you weren’t even around. and heels, which are all helpfully cheap, but they are justified on the
organized by size with clearly marked whole by the quality.
sections. Various choices abound,

61 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg


62
Food & Drink Food & Drink

Babel Focacceria Naturale a lunch hotspot for Prenzlauer Berg’s salad and a mount of crispy leaves,
discerning residents. peppers, tomato, cucumber and
Kastanienalle33, Kastanienalle 4, U-bahn: Eberswalder succulent chicken will arrive a short
U-bahn: Eberswalder Straße. Mon-Sun, open from 12-12. while after (perhaps a little longer
Straße noon - than you may like). If a salad is not
For a quick pit stop during shopping
midnight what you’re after, soups, bagels
ventures on Kastanienalle, this
For a kebab you won’t ciabatta-cum-pizza café is a great and ciabatta sandwiches are also
regret the morning alternative from the often meat- available for a more pocket friendly
after, Babel is the heavy Kebab and Currywurst stalls price. There are also generous happy
place to go. Serving so readily found in Berlin. With hour(s) and limitless wifi.
deliciously authentic toppings varying from spinach, ham,
meals at the wallet- tuna, mozzarella, tomato and goats W-Imbiss
friendly price of cheese, and a sizeable slice costing www.w-derimbiss.de Kastanienallee
just three Euro, this only 2€, the relaxed café is a perfect 49, M8 M1 M12, Rosenthalerplatz.4302
makes the perfect place for refuelling. What’s more, 0678 noon-midnight.
spot to stop off for the juice bar along the counter offers
a quick bite between similar variety. Freshly stocked from Best described as an Indian-Italian-
bars. Particularly the vibrant fruit and veg shop next Californian fusion restaurant,
recommended are door, prices range from a pocket- W-Imbiss lies on the stylish edge of
the chicken schwarma friendly two to four euro depending Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg. It takes
or grilled haloumi. on how much fruit you want thrown its name from the German ‘Imbiss’
Sitting on the terrace in. All in all, the perfect place to take Fellas meaning ‘fast-food’. Its logo is
outside is a good spot a pause and plan your next shopping www.fellas-berlin.de Stargarder the notorious golden arches turned
to watch the well-to- venture. Straße U-bahn: Schonhauser Allee. upside down hinting that W-Imbiss
do hipster inhabitants Tel:46796314; 10 am- 1am. is no ordinary fast food joint. Chef,
of the surrounding
Tabeyo Gordon W, dishes out everything from
area go preening and prancing about Danzinger Straße 14, U-bahn: If a big hearty salad is what you’re naan pizzas to black bean quesadillas,
their business. The restaurant itself Eberswalder Straße Tel:304 435 7402 looking for, then head to Fellas. With producing scrumptious, eccentric,
is run by a couple of genial Lebanese enough greenery to last you a week gastronomy in minutes. A tannoy
At Tabeyo, you can eat like a prince this dimly lit, wooden furnished system declares your food is ready to
guys and attracts a healthy mix of
on a pauper’s pocket. Offering restaurant-come-bar is a great be collected from the postage stamp
homesick Arabs, clued-up locals and
freshly made sushi with good quality place for private dinners or long lazy sized kitchen. Choose to take away
boozed-up bar hoppers. So revered
ingredients at the overtly generous lunches. Although fairly expensive, or eat outside among large plastic
is this place in fact that it has even
price of two euro for six rolls, it is you’re money will defiantly go a orange tables.
made local guide Tipp’s list of Top 20
easy to see why this place has become long way. Order a Sportsfreund
places to eat in Berlin.

63 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 64


Food & Drink Food & Drink
Hans Wurst Café the delicious food. Fear not if your German translator to decipher the Nocti Vagus
German is not yet fluent, the friendly delectable German menu. Doggy
w w w. m y s p a c e . c o m / staff will help you with translation; bags are available as is free WiFi. www.noctivagus.com. Saarbrücker
hanswurstvegancafe. Dunckerstr they will happily consult an online Str. 36-38. U-Bahn: Senefelder
2a. Tram: M10 Husemannstrasse. to stay for as long as you please with Platz. Tel: +49 3 074 749 123.
U-Bahn: Eberswalder Strasse. Tel. access to free wifi. Juxtaposed to the Prices start from €49 including a
030 41 71 78 22. Mon-Sat: 12pm- antique furniture are the modern light The Bird show, and Mondays are cheaper
12am. Sun: 11am-12am. Prices: €4- fixtures, fresh flowers on every table, with set menus starting from €29.
9, lunch specials from 12-3. www.thebirdberlin.com. Am
as well as the natural food choices. Falkplatz 5, U-bahn: Schonhauser Treat yourself to a high quality
This vegan organic café is an All of the dishes contain variations Allee. Tel: 510 532 83; Mon-Sat 6 dinner in the dark in the original
excellent alternative to those who of tofu, including salads, burgers, pm - midnight, Sun. noon-midnight dunkelrestaurant Nocti Vagus.
like unconventional menus. Its quaint sandwiches, and stir fry. There are Prepare to awaken and revitalise
atmosphere and relaxing ambience Two words: Meat heaven! Vegetarians the only four senses you have left…
makes you feel welcome right from are advised to stay away from this smells of the succulent food passing
the start. It is filled with antique rustic, boozy pub/restaurant where by will waft up your nose, noises of
sofas and comfy chairs, inviting you even the Ceasar salad has steak in the anonymous patrons and blind
it. Serving the best burgers in Berlin, waiters will fill your ears as you
Lorbeth Feine Kost devour a freshly ground Iowa steak orientate yourself at your table by
patty, sandwiched between a toasted touch, and finally when your food
Pappelle allee 84. U-bahn: English muffin served up with a crisp
Eberswalder Straße arrives your taste buds will explode
salad and a side of homemade fries. with the culinary delights the chefs
Lorberth – Feine Kost specialises in Its witty menu (which includes an have prepared especially for you.In
traditional German cuisine with a obituary to a once popular burger no this restaurant you will experience
contemporary twist. The café come longer in production) will tempt you what it is like to be blind. You will
restaurant provides traditional foods with a wealth of toppings from blue form judgements, based not on
including Bratwurst, Spàztle, and cheese to bacon. If burgers don’t appearance but, on how a person
Schnitzel, brought into the 21st whet your appetite then try the speaks to you. A trip to the toilet is
century when mixed with usual surprisingly cheaper option of steak not so easy when you’re blind and
and exciting flavours. Greeted by a also accompanied with salad and you will have to call for an escort
mishmash of tables and umbrellas fries. Although cutlery is provided to lead the way. Even pouring
surrounded by leafy plants, you can for the steak, eating burgers with your drinks in the dark may prove
various cakes and cookies for dessert.
choose to eat indoors or out. Whether your fingers is strongly advised! difficult. Choose to eat with a
Additionally, the cafe hosts several
stopping by for a full-blown dinner or No need to worry about the mess knife and fork, or just get messy
parties a month introducing bands
just tea and cake, the menu changes though as kitchen roll accompanies with your hands. Will you even find
from all over the globe.
daily so you will never get bored of the condiments on every table

65 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 66


Food & Drink Food & Drink
your food and be able to tell what an experience, this restaurant also Zur Rose Erdbeer
it is without sight? The challenges offers various shows to accompany
you’ll experience being blinded by your meal. These shows include Weinbergsweg 26 .U2 Rosa- Max-Beer Straße 56.U2 Rosa-
the dark will open your mind and various readers, singers, and actors Luxembourg Platz, M8 to Rosenthaler Luxembourg Platz Open Summer
may change your preconceptions of who take to the dark stage for your platz 030-22-30-8802 Open 9am- 2pm – Late daily, Winter 6pm – Late
what you thought it was like to have entertainment. The timetable for 1am, daily. No credit cards.
no vision.On these events Sandwiched between a little row Erdbeer’s proximity to the array
arrival you will is available on of the many eateries found in of bars at Rosa-Luxembourg Platz
be welcomed the website Rosenthaler and Rosenthaler Platz makes
into the with dates for Platz, is it the perfect place to start an
restaurant bar non-German this bustling evening. Its reputation for mouth-
which is located speaking tourists hangout. Its watering and varied cocktails is well
upstairs in the pointed out. rustic style, deserved, and the extensive menu
light. Here with antique only presents one problem: which
Once you finish
is where you furnishings drink to choose! Be prepared to
your meal and
decide what found in splash out, as cocktail prices begin
are welcomed
you would like the back aaround Seven Euro. However, for
back into the
to eat. Ordering and small the delicious drinks and intimate
light, prepare
c o u l d n ’ t garden tables atmosphere, it is money well spent.
to be surprised
be simpler, squeezed in
by what you During the week, an eclectic mix of
with three the front,
thought you ate music is played in the background
set menu’s makes a
and what you at a fairly low level, offering guests
incorporating pleasant
thought your the rare chance to have an audible
three courses place to sit back and contemplate
blind waiter conversation in such an environment.
including a a days sight seeing. The food comes
looked like. Over the weekend, DJs play sets to get
vegetarian in generous portions and budget
Also make sure guests revved up for the night ahead.
option and a friendly prices, where breakfasts
you check your The candle-lit tables, pink décor and
fourth tailored and lunches range from 3-5€, and
shirt for debris; mismatched chairs all add to the
surprise menu dinner plates including pastas and
you never charm of this quirky bar. Erdbeer is a
for those feeling salads from 5-9€. Make sure to
know what you low-key and relaxing venue, which also
a tad more daring. Once your order check out the “tap your own beer”
dropped down there in the dark! serves a wide selection of beers and
is placed a waiter will lead you down service, where you can help yourself
Make a call and reserve your table non-alcoholic refreshments for non-
to the basement restaurant where to your own pints (Aprox.€3 each).
because this place can get busy, cocktail drinkers. Well worth a visit.
the excitement begins.If eating in Cocktails are also good (and strong),
the dark does not sound enough of then prepare for the unexpected. and average around €5.

67 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg


68
Nightlife Nightlife
White Trash Dr Pong in smaller groups, as large swathes
of tourists can irritate the loyal
w w w. w h i t e t r a s h f a s t f o o d . c o m upcoming indie bands to occasional Eberswalder Straße 21 Sun 14:00- punters. It empties out after awhile,
Schönhauser Allee 6-7: U-Bahn: Rosa- internationally-known acts. As if all late Eberswalder Straße, U2, M1, so hold on if you’re finding it a bit
Luxemburg Platz Tel: 030-50348668 this wasn’t enough, there’s also an M10, 12Mon-Sat 20:00-late, overwhelming. Chessboards are also
Mon-Fri from 12pm, Sat & Sun from in-house tattoo parlour if you feel
Hidden away on a busy street in available if table tennis isn’t your
6pm. like permanently marking your body
Prenzlauer Berg, with nothing but thing.
is the perfect accompaniment to a
Dining at White Trash is a sure-fire meal. The service has been known to dim lighting and occasional cheers to
way to induce a sensory overload. suggest it being open for business, is Rosengarten
be shoddy at times, and explicitly
This converted Chinese a cheap and a great way to spend an www.rosengarten-berlin.de. Wein-
restaurant, replete evening. Grab a beer (2.50€), a bat (a bergsweg 13. U-Bahn: Rosenthaler
with gaudy Oriental 5€ deposit is needed) and head to the Platz. Mon -Fri 4pm-12pm, Sat-Sun
flourishes and garnished sparsely decorated ,high ceilinged 1pm – 12pm.
with bizarre bric-a- room whose focal point is a large ping
Rosengarten is an excellent place
brac, serves up decent pong table. The rules are simple:
to rest your feet with a cool drink
American-style dishes every time a new round starts, join
after a day’s sightseeing or shop-
with incendiary titles the rotating circle of competitors and
ping. Beautifully situated by the
such as “The Marquee take turns in hitting the ball back to
eponymous rose garden in Volk-
de Fuck Burger”. each other. If you miss a shot, join
spark Weinberg, the atmosphere
Wolfing this down the many who simply come along to
is exceptionally laid back. Striped
whilst being serenaded watch. Hit every shot and you will
deckchairs are set out next to the
by a thrash metal band find yourself in the five-round-finale
small outdoor bar where super
in what resembles a where although discreet, the winning
friendly staff serve beer, wine, soft
schizophrenic bordello title will gain you respect from
drinks and cake. A great program of
provides a uniquely Berlin’s table-
events is on
entertaining experience. When rude at others. By all accounts, you’re tennis mega-
offer, such as
you’ve finished, or given up on, your more likely to hear “Fuck off!” from fans. Rounds
film screen-
outrageously large portion, head your waiter than “Bon appetit!” can start with
ings and live
downstairs to dance off the calories However, go in expecting something as little as 3
music. On
in the misnomer that is though if easily a little different from your average to as many as
Wednesdays
offended. The Diamond Lounge, the culinary experience and you’ll be 30 players, so
at 7pm there
dingy basement club. Here the music pleasantly sated. Perhaps best to be confident
are even
is loud and the acts vary from local steer clear to ensure you
hula-hoop
get a swing in.
workshops.
Best to come

69 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 70


Accommodation Accommodation

Alkatraz East Seven Hostel on every floor, what more could “Wash your own dishes, or we’ll make
a budding traveller ask for. Not to you eat your passport!” – is the note
w w w. a l c a t r a z - b a c k p a c k e r. www.eastseven.de. Schwedter mention being surrounded by cafes, you will find in the kitchen of this
de Schonhauser Allee 133a. U2 Straße 7. U-bahn: Senefelder Platz. restaurants, nightlife and of course laidback hostel. The bright
Eberswalder Strasse Tel: +49 (0)30 Tel: 936 22 240 lots of shops. A trip to the famous
48496815 Mauer Park fleamarket on Sunday is
Dorm: 17
S 40, D 25, T 22 a must. Or relax in the cosy garden
S 37, D 50, T 51, Q 78
house/barbeque area among other
4 bedroom dorm 18
Linen: 3 guests. The friendly and welcoming
8 bedroom dorm 16 staff are always on hand 24/7 with
Towels: 1euro
tips and tricks to help you make the
Apartments (4 people) 106, (5
Visa and Mastercard accepted (small most of your time in the city. The
people) 116, (6 people) 126
fee of 1euro per 100euro to cover hostel offers a range of services
Linen: 2 Towels: free on demand costs) including: laundry service, free
lockers in rooms, free luggage
This urban, hip hostel located on Situated just north of Berlin’s
storage, free maps and free wi-fi.
the busy street of Schönhauser Allee über-hip Mitte district, this small,
The East Seven Berlin hostel fosters a
stands out from the rest. With its comfortable hostel offers travellers
relaxed atmosphere all year round.
unique exterior of graffiti, it’s hard a wide range of clean, high quality
to walk past without being intrigued affordable accommodation. With
by what lies within. You can find spacious bathrooms and hot showers Lette’m Sleep orange and blue walls of Lette’m Sleep
all kinds of travellers residing here fit in nicely with Prenzlauerberg’s
www.backpackers.de. Lettestraße
from students, backpackers, walk- vibrant scene. This relaxed hostel
7. U-bahn: Eberswalder Straße. hosts a mixture of nationalities
ins and occasionally families. The Tel: +49 (0)30 44733623 Fax: +49
small intimate courtyard is an ideal all year round; backpackers from
(0)30 44733625 Finland, a family from Spain, an
place to sit back and unwind. The
common area with TV, table football, 7 bed dorms 17€, 6 bed dorms 18€, American biker… you’ll find them
books and leaflets galore make sure 5 bed dorms 19€, 4 bed dorms 20€, here. With its no curfew policy
you will be kept busy. There is a 3 bed dorms 21€ travellers may come and go as they
lobby where computers are located please. The little common room has
Twin room: 49€ everything you could need including
with free internet access (you can
also access the internet with your Apartment: 69€/room a night for free internet, tea, coffee, and a
own notebook via wi-fi). The self- two people great DVD collection. This hostel has
service kitchen/lounge is bright and the vibe of Berlin built in. It’s down-
Linen: Included no charge to-earth, nonchalant cool.
colourful and has a relaxed vibe.
Towels: 70cent

71 Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg 72


Potsdamer Platz
& Tiergarten
Information
Potsdamer Platz is Berlin’s newest Platz turned to rubble, and when
quarter. Showcasing architectural the Berlin Wall was erected straight
gems such as the dramatic Sony through the heart of the square in
Centre, the square is dominated by 1961, all transport connections were
mainstream commercial success. cut. Potsdamer Platz became a ghost
Providing three multiplex cinemas, town.
a shopping mall, The Ritz Carlton,
Situated close to Potsdamer Platz
Europe’s largest casino and a
is Berlin’s answer to Hyde Park:
multitude of non-descript bars
Tiergarten. Originally laid out as a
and restaurants, the development
hunting ground in the 17th Century,
of Potsdamer Platz has not been
today Tiergarten is a popular spot
without its critics. That being said,
for relaxing in the sun after a day
the bustling centre continues to
of cultural activity. Escape from the
attract tourists and locals alike.
city in the green open space or visit
Whether it is for the impressive
Berlin’s zoo situated on the outskirts.
architecture, the selection of
museums, events such as the Berlin
Film Festival (held at Cinemaxx),
or simply as a means to witness the
enormous renewal of the square,
there is no doubting that this is one
of Berlin’s busiest areas.
It could be said that Potsdamer
Platz is a version of its former self.
In the early 20th Century the square
was one of Europe’s biggest traffic
centres that defined Berlin and it is
even said to have housed Europe’s
first electric traffic lights. While a
replica of the lights can now be seen
as soon as you step off the S-Bahn,
little else exists that acknowledges
the history of the area.
During WW2, much of Potsdamer

73 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 74


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Kulturforum class, with its collection of European Old


Master paintings. Joining this building
Potsdamer Platz U-Bahn or S-Bahn: are also the Kunstgewerbemuseum
U2, S1, S2, S26 Potsdamer Platz (Museum of Decorative Art), the
The Kulturforum is a complex of Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints
some of Berlin’s main galleries and Drawings), and the Kunstbibliotek
and museums. It was planned out (Art Library). The Philharmonie is
post World War Two, after several home to the Berlin Philharmonic
important cultural institutions Orchestra, and is an astounding
were cut off from West Berlin, golden, Expressionist, ship-shaped
and build on a site that had been masterpiece of a building designed by
cleared for Hilter’s Germania. The Hans Scharoun, and has a reputation
Neue Nationalgalerie was built for superb acoustics. Next door, the
first in 1968, at a time when the Musikinstrumentenmuseum is a small
Nationalgalerie on Museumsinsel museum of musical instruments from
was separated by the wall on the the sixteenth century on, with guides
Eastern side of the city. It now giving performances on Saturdays at
contains an unmissable collection 11am. And if all that wasn’t enough,
of 20th century art, even if the the Staatsbibliotek (State Library) is
permanent collection often gives also here, another Scharoun building
way to (also excellent) temporary (haunted by angels in the classic Berlin- Gemäldergalerie
exhibitions. The Gemäldegalerie based film Wings of Desire) and has a Matthäikirchplaz 8, Phone: 266 works housed here, the other half of
(Painting Gallery) is also world- great selection of books in English. 2951, Tue.-Sun. 10am-6pm, to 10pm the collection remains in the Bode
Thur. U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz Museum in Mitte. The museum itself
consists of a large central hall flanked
Bargain time... The Gemäldergalerie, part of the by series of galleries on either side.
Kulturforum, is impressive to say the Advance through history as you move
Buy a day ticket for any one of the galleries or museums at the least. This picture gallery houses
kultureforum and get free entry into any of the others! This includes through the museum, with the newest
European works spanning the 13th works at the back. Due to the sheer
the Gemaldegalerie (picture gallery), Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum through the 18th centuries. Pieces
of Applied Arts), Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints and Drawings), number of works, it would be advisable
by masters such as Jan van Eyck, to spare a couple of hours to see the
Neue Nationalgalerie (20th Century Art) & Musikinstrumenten-Museum Rogier van der Weyden, Rembrandt,
(Musical Instruments Museum). whole collection. If you don’t have
Vermeer and Dürer are the crown that much time to spare, then choose
jewels in an already stunning a couple centuries or artists to see for
collection. Aside from the 1500 a shorter, less intensive visit.

75 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 76


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Neue-national Gallerie WWII and is still recognised today.


This forms the core of the collection
www.neue-nationalgalerie.de. while the second part of the collection
Potsdamer Strasse 50. U-Bahn/S- focuses on the early works of Abstract
Bahn: Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 30 Expressionism. The Ulla and Heiner
266 424 242. Tue-Wed, Sun 10am- Pietzsch collection began over 40
6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat years ago and comprises of over 180
10am-8pm. Price: €5-10. artistic pieces by some of the world’s
Visiting the Neue Nationalgalerie is in most influential artists, such as Max
itself not to be missed. Designed by Ernst, Joan Miró and Dorothea Tanning.
Mies van der Rohe, the building hosts Walking around this remarkable gallery
special temporary exhibitions that are amazing pieces of art that go from
can last for a couple of years as well stunning to bizarre, fantastical to
as works of classical Modernism and grotesque. What’s more the artists’
history nuts alike, this museum Marlene Dietrich. Accompanying the
1960-70s art work. The permanent surreal and abstract styles are
focuses on the last 100 years of permanent exhibition is a temporary
exhibition is located in the lower perfectly presented throughout the
German film history. A particular “Moments in Time 1989/1990” display.
part of the gallery. exhibition, giving a sense of curiosity
emphasis is placed on the golden Following the fall of the Berlin wall
and wonder around each corner.
The temporary collections focus era, when Berlin came close to and aware that their protest could
on representations of Cubism, The exhibition illustrates the matching those of Hollywood. no longer be stopped, Berliners
Expressionism, Surrealism and the development of abstract expressionism increasingly felt a desire to capture
Upon entering, be sure to grab the
Bauhaus. Currently the Bilderträume and surrealism and it is truly amazing events on film. Taken by private
free audio guide. Take a wander
(Dreams in Pictures) – Die Sammlung how each artist individually conveys individuals in diverse and personal
through the permanent exhibition.
Ulla und Heiner Pietzsch exhibition this style. Forthcoming exhibitions can ways, the presentation sheds some
Images invert and skew and reflect
is running up until November 2009. be found on the website. additional light on the most important
as mirrors and irregular walls almost
The Bilderträume is an unmissable convey a walk within the confines period in post-war German history
opportunity to view possibly the Museum fur Film und in a colourful and insightful manner.
of the lens of a camera. Black
most private collection in Berlin. Fernsehen (Film/TV Museum) and white films are beautifully Leaving as much to the imagination as
What makes this exhibition so unique juxtaposed against the modern objectively illustrating the events and
w w w. d e u t s c h e - k i n e m a t h e k . d e . emotions felt at the time, the display
is the collection is solely based on interior decor and each exhibit is
U-Bahn/S-Bahn: Potsdam Platz. Tel: is a rare insight into the events of 1989
two distinctive styles; Surrealism insightful and to the point. Presented
+49 3 024 749 888. Tues-Sun:10am- Berlin from the perspectives of directly
and Abstract Expressionism. The art chronologically, classic film fans will
6pm, Thu: 10am-8pm. Price: €6/€4.50 affected individuals set comparatively
of Surrealism is a style that was first relish behind-the-scenes glimpses
concession against worldwide news reports issued
developed from direct Surrealist of films including “Das Cabinet Des
influences in New York following A treasure to film enthusiasts and Caligari” (1920) and “Metropolis” at the same time.

77 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 78


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Kunst und Trödel Märkte Arkaden am Potsdamer Platz


www.berliner-troedelmarkt.de. www.potsdamer-platz-arkaden.de
Strasse des 17 Juni. Tel: +49 3 026 Alte Potsdamer Straße 7. U-Bahn:
550 096. S-Bahn: Tiergarten. Sat- Potsdamer Platz. Tel: +49 3025 59270.
Sun 10am-5pm Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 10am–9pm.
The Trödelmarkt and neighbouring For the mainstream shopping
Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt experience, head to Arkaden. Situated
are bustling, busy Berlin weekend in the heart of the bustling Potsdamer
markets that offer an interesting Platz, this three-storey complex
and distinctive experience. They epitomises what this oncehistoric
boast unique artifacts and clothing site now has to offer. The commercial
and there are great bargains to be shopping mall houses European fashion
had, especially if you’re ready to favourites such as Mango, H&M and
Zoologischer Garten very easy to spend the best part of the haggle.
day there, and comfortable footwear
Hardenbergplatz 8, U-bahn - is definitely recommended. There are At the Trödelmarkt, amidst the
Zoologischer Garten tel. +49 (0)30 plenty of places to get a drink or snack muddle of second-hand and vintage
25401- 0, info@zoo-berlin.deOpened within the park and also there is a large clothing and jewellery, antique
in 1844, it is the oldest zoo in restaurant, Schuler’s GastZoonomie, furniture and silverware, old
Germany and one of the largest located at the heart of the zoo. paintings, collector’s coins and used
zoos in the world, with the widest records and books, there is sure
variety of species which doesn’t fail One of the best times of day to see to be something that catches your
to impress from the moment you the animals is at feeding time and eye.
step through the gates. The park the times are posted on signs at the
enclosures. Unfortunately there are The Kunst und Kunsthandwerkmarkt Zara as well as Tommy Hilfiger and
itself is visually stunning with lush
no free maps and information leaflets, is located just through the Swarovski for the high-end shoppers.
green trees and intermittent water
although there is a map in the back of Charlottenburg Gate and across While including internationally
features.
the zoo guide book (Zooführer) which the Landswehrkanal from the renowned stores and commonplace
Even if you’re not interested will set you back €4. Trödelmarkt. Here local artists and establishments like McDonalds and
in the surrounding the sheer designers display and sell their work Starbucks, Arkaden does incorporate a
range of species won’t leave you If you don’t want to shell out for a including jewellery, wooden toys, moderate selection of German gems.
disappointed. With around 14,000 book there are maps located at regular ceramics, paintings and clothing. Take a look in Bree for a selection
animals, there is plenty to see and a intervals around the zoo and it is fairly The selection ranges from gaudy to of Berlin-made leather handbags or
lot of ground to cover. Give yourself easy to navigate or you can download tasteful but all items are certainly try Sergio Engel for locally produced
plenty of time for the visit as it is a plan of the zoo from their website. original. jewellery.

79 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 80


Arts & Culture Food & Drink

English Garden Music played until sunset combined


Rowing in the Tiergarten with the beautiful urroundings makes
Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/ this place an inevitable stop on a
Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn:
Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price: weekend Tiergarten stroll.
Tiergarten/Zoological. Tel:30
€5-15.
25 44 930. Fairly priced drinks ranges from €2
Charm and atmosphere surround to €4. Food starts from €4 with their
The lake in the Tiergarten is the
this quaint little beer garden menu (although slightly limited in
perfect place to relax. On the
nestled in the north-west corner of hot foods) provides an extensive ice-
grassy shores of Neuer See are
the Tiergarten. Seamlessly blending cream and milkshake list. On the
relaxing deck chairs where you
in with the surrounding green areas weekends, during jazz concerts the
can take a nap, or enjoy a beer
the English Garden remains one English Garden also opens additional
from the nearby beer garden
of the hidden gems in the massive food stands serving up, Thai, Turkish
(see page). For those looking
park. This particular stop can prove and other world cuisines.
for a bit of fun, you can also
a bit challenging to find due to its
rent rowboats and go exploring.
size and unpretentious demeanour,
however a little navigating and
Cafe an Neuen See
On jumping into the boats, it
doesn’t seem like you have far exploring will yield a highly enjoyable Lichtenstein 2. U-Bahn: Tiergarten/
to go. Although the late isn’t experience. Zoological. Tel:30 25 44 930. Price:
huge, there are many little €5-15.
Sitting in the shade of a thatched-roof
passageways that adventurers Set in the lovely Tiergarten this beer
cottage, it’s not difficult to see why
can paddle through and explore. garden tops the list. Cold beer, good
the beer garden has been granted its
Watch out for fish, ducks, and food and a magical atmosphere awaits
moniker. Echoing scenes of English
the rare turtle. The odd collision your visit. Close to the Zoo, and hidden
countryside, this establishment
with another boat is always a in the trees, you can rent boats and
provides a well needed break from
possibility. Prices for the boats row around the lake or take over some
the hustle and bustle of Berlin
start at €5 for 30minutes and deckchairs on the grass.
outside the Tiergarten boundaries.
€10 for 60minutes. Up to five
people can fit in the boat and Look for the English Garden on a Dinner will set you back around 10€.
life vests are provided if needed. weekday and you could easily miss it. Grab eine Maß (a pint of beer) and
The rental is inexpensive for Look for it on a weekend, and all you fresh leberkäse (a baked loaf of finely
budgeting travellers who have need to do is follow the jazz music. ground corned beef, pork and onions)
a few friends to share the boat Every weekend the English Garden with potato salad, snuggle onto one of
with. is host to a slew of jazz ensembles the communal tables – don’t be shy,
which draw a large crowd to the and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere
otherwise calm watering hole. with some friends.

81 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 82


Food & Drink

Billy Wilders
Let’s be honest...
www.billywilders.de Potsdamer
Potsdammer Platz is expensive, Straße 2 U-Bahn: Potsdamer Platz
touristy and lacking in quality Tel: 030-26 55 48 60
when it comes to food and Much like its namesake, Billy
drink. You would be much Wilder’s offers something a little
better hopping on the U -Bahn different from its contemporaries.
and going elsewhere. If you Surrounded on all fronts by
absolutely must dine here, corporate brands and identikit bars,
listed below are a few places this bar is a pocket of character in
you could try. If they don’t an otherwise bland area. Presided
tempt you numerous generic over by a large portrait of the
restaurants and bars can be acclaimed director, responsible for
found in the Sony centre. the classic Some Like It Hot, sitting
around the curved bar drinking tall
drinks whilst admiring the sleek art
deco interior is glamorous nostalgia,
Weilands Wellfood all the more emphatic in its contrast
to the concrete jungle outside its
www.weilands-wellfood.de doors. Just a lift ride away from
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 U-Bahn: the Museum of Cinema, there is no
Potsdamer Platz Tel: 30 25899717 more fitting way to reflect on the
golden age of Hollywood. They say
If feeling a bit bloated after too they don’t make like they used to;
much beer and bratwurst, head well, in this case they do. Prices are
to this wholesome self-service however indicative of the area so
buffet. Satisfying the most health best to get there during happy hour.
conscious consumers, benefit from
salads, stir-fries and whole-wheat
pasta dishes. Reasonably priced
averaging 6€ for a large salad. Be
warned that flavours may differ
from what’s advertised. Free WiFi
available.

83 Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten 84


Freidrichshain Information

An up and coming neighbourhood


in East Berlin, Friedrichshain offers
travellers a look into Berlin’s vibrant
bar, café, club, and restaurant
culture.
The neighbourhood boasts an
extensive nightlife where travellers
can bar-hop on Simon-Dach-Strasse,
enjoy the laid back atmosphere of the
beach bars on the Spree, experience
the underground punk scene, or have
a sleepless weekend gyrating on a
dance floor until Sunday afternoon.
Friedrichshain is unmistakeably
a neighbourhood of the East with
Socialist architecture and its grand
boulevard aptly named Karl-Marx-
Allee, formerly Stalinallee.
The East Side Gallery is the star
tourist attraction of this district. It is
the longest intact part of the Berlin
Wall, with many murals created by
known and unknown artists alike.
Gentrification is quickly closing in
on this eccentric neighbourhood.
The O2 World Arena recently opened
and there are plans to continue
developing and do away with many of
the quirks like its famed beach bars,
which make this neighbourhood tick.
Hopefully, the area will survive this
demolition and continue to flourish
under Berlin’s counter culture.

85 Freidrichshain 86
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

East Side Gallery by Dmitry Vruhel in 1990, which


portrays communist leaders Erich
w w w. e a s t s i d e g a l l e r y. c o m . Honecker and Leonid Breznev locked
Muhlenstrasse. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof/ in a passionate embrace. Another
Warschauer Strasse. Free Admission. iconic mural by Bergit Kinder boldly
Located in an area where sightseeing illustrates an East German Trabant
is all but void this 1.3km long stretch bursting through the Wall in a
of the former Berlin Wall is now symbolic representation of a failed
home to murals created by 118 escape attempt. A visit to the sight
artists around the world. Opening before the final section is repainted
as a gallery in 1990 the section is a allows the visitor the form their own
celebration of the fall of the wall and opinion on which best represents
a symbol of freedom and expression. freedom and expression.
It is also the longest remaining
section of this concrete divider left
in Berlin.
Upon approaching this outdoor
gallery the €2.2 million restoration
process taking place is evident.
Freshly reconditioned murals shine
out beside the rawness of original
sections scarred by weathering and
often less artistic graffiti. The gallery
is now being renovated in stages in
preparation for the 20th anniversary
of the reunification of Berlin.
Controversy surrounds this ‘clean up’
process as only 80% of the original
artists were able to be contacted to
restore their own pieces.
Famous murals which have been
replicated without the artists’
permission include “God help
me to survive this deadly love”,

87 88
Food & Drink Food & Drink

Qrazy:Ling’s Vietnamese food is all about fresh Qrazy:Ling’s is actually connected fare. Intimidating in size and lavishly
ingredients and fragrant aromas and via an arch to art store Quality doused with tangy feta and balsamic,
www.qrazylings.com. Tram: M13 Qrazy:Ling’s food certainly embraces Lovers which explains why this the salads are perfect for lunch and
Wuhlischstrasse. Tel: +49 3 029 493 this tradition. traditional Vietnamese restaurant not to be missed in the evening is the
157. Mon-Thu 4pm-12am, Fri 4pm- has such a quirky modern feel and a filling spätzle dishes: small potato
late, Sat-Sun 1pm-late. Cost: €5 to Whether you go for the traditional
relaxed atmosphere to match. dumplings smothered with fresh herbs
€9. simple-yet-tasty noodle soup Pho
and dotted with mushrooms, carrots
or the rice noodles with deliciously Service can be slow with big groups,
The strikingly colourful graffiti façade and chicken. Vegetarian options are
marinated beef Bun Bo Hue, you will but for Ling’s utterly delectable
of Qrazy:Ling’s may not scream out also available. Whether it’s for a
be surprised at how much flavour food, it is definitely worth the wait.
authentic Vietnamese cuisine, but fueling breakfast, a quick lunch break
one mouthful can deliver. The main
on entrance you’ll find an intricate or a relaxing dinner, Cayetano offers
meals are generously portioned with
hand-made décor and an impressive it all in the way of a smiling staff,
affordable prices so you won’t go
menu of mouth-watering delights. home feeling hungry at the slightest. Cayetanom Mediterranean filling food and a soothing setting.
Restaurant If you’re in the area on Sunday,
Cayetano also offers an all-you-can-
Simon-Dach-Strasse 14. U-Bahn:
eat brunch on Sundays from 10am-
Frankurter Tor. Tel: +49 3 054 730
3pm.
042. Price: €5-10.
Settled in amongst trendy shops,
ice-cream parlors and cobblestone
pathways, Cayetano is perfectly
located for a mid-day sustenance
break. A number of outdoor tables
provide a cool, shaded atmosphere
for eating, drinking and people-
watching and the servers are
courteous and hospitable. The
portions are generous and come
with a fresh side salad as well as
soft, white bread.
The diner can choose between a
number of items, ranging from
American-style burgers, Italian
pasta dishes and typical German

89 90
Food & Drink Food & Drink
Don Sushi and Cocktail Bar a long day or alternatively the start Cafe Sibylle wait, but it does provide a great view
of a long night of exploring the city. of the expansive Karl-Marx Allee.
www.don-restaurant.de. U-Bahn: Karl Marx Strasse 72. U-Bahn: This historical street, renamed after
Frankfurter Tor or Samariterstrasse. Weberwiese or Strausberger Platz. Stalin was removed from power, was
Niederbarnimstrasse 12. Tel: +49 A handy tip: there is only one sushi Mon-Sat 9am-10pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. where East Berliners used to watch
3 021 237 935. Mon-Fri 4pm-12am, chef so it is recommended to go in Price: €0-5. the tanks roll by during the annual
Sat-Sun 5pm-12am. Price: €1-10. smaller groups to avoid a long wait, military parades.
With a unique history spanning
Situated on a busy street bursting as all orders for the same table arrive back to the Stalin-era, Cafe Sibylle, With some coffee, cake, and
with worldwide cuisines at every together. originally Milchtrinkhalle, doubles communism, this is an enjoyable way
turn, Don is the place to be for as both a cafe, and a communist to learn about an important piece of
deliciously fresh sushi and fantastic museum. German history.
cocktails.
The cafe offers an assortment of
Don Sushi offers a daily happy hour freshly baked cakes, ice-cream,
of up to 50% off selected dishes sandwiches, as well as a great
from 4pm till midnight. With maki’s selection of cocktails, and non-
starting from €1.50 to €4 per dish, alcoholic drinks. While waiting for
it’s a great way of trying the large your order, you are free to walk
range of sushi they have on offer. around, and look at their collection
of Eastern Germany-era artifacts.
You can even watch the sushi chef at
work as he makes your sushi, which Cafe Sibylle offers both indoor
adds a personal touch, and you can and outdoor seating. This unusual,
be guaranteed that the fish is fresh! half-furnished cafe does a great
Although the portions are slightly on job meshing together modern art
the small side the reduced price that with its utilitarian past. Behind
you pay means you are getting your the brightly colored statues and
money’s worth, rather than being paintings, it is still possible to see
overcharged for normal prices. the bland colourless walls from its
GDR days.
Sushi is usually associated with sake
and green tea, so it may seem odd With rhythmic jazz music in the
that Don Sushi offers a variety of background and their eclectic décor,
cocktails alongside its sushi menu. indoors is a great place to sit and
Starting from €4 per glass, they are chat, or to get some work done.
refreshing little treats at the end of Outdoor seating might require a

91 92
Nightlife Nightlife
Lebowski’s The walls are covered with effigies Cassiopeia
of actors Jeff Bridges, John Goodman
www.kneipe-lebowski.de. and Steve Buscemi, portraying their www.cassiopeia-berlin.de. Revaler
Niederbarnimstrasse 23. U-Bahn: characters in the movie and during Straße 99. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: War-
Samaritastrasse. Tel: +49 1 733 themed nights the movie is played shauer Straße. Tel: +49 304 738 594.
561 828. Mon-Sun: 6pm-late.Price: repeatedly on screens throughout the Entry: €4-8.
€2-5. bar; walk into the restrooms of this Along Friedrichshain’s infamous
An upside down bowling alley peering weird and wonderful bar and you can Simon-Dach-Straße you can find a
down on patrons as they happily sip hear The Big Lebowski through the vast array of bars but for something
away at their white Russians sets loudspeakers dubbed into German. a bit different head towards Revaler
the scene for this Friedrichshain This drinking establishment has Straße to stumble across the under-
institution. Lebowski’s, a bar certainly been built by fans of the world that is Cassiopeia.
based around the cult movie The movie for fans of the movie.
There are two club floors that host a
Big Lebowski, attracts a vast array As such, no fan should leave without wide range of musicians and djs from
of colourful characters, most of having a White Russian, The Dude’s a local standard right up to interna-
which have taken the movie’s main favourite drink. White Russians will tionally renowned acts. Open every
character, The Dude, as a style icon, run at €4.90 while draught beer runs night of the week except Mondays
donning trench coats, long hair and at under €3. you can enjoy hip-hop, funk, rock,
even longer unkempt beards.
hardcore, electro, reggae, drum n
Lebowski’s manages to avoid the bass and much more but be sure to
common corny and trite pitfalls that check on their website to find out
other themed bars tend to suffer what’s on.
from. Managing to perfectly strike a
Set in over 4,000m² of old factory
balance between paying tribute to
halls there is plenty of space to let
the cult movie while maintaining the
yourself go and soak up the unique
charm and charisma of the Berlin dive
experience that this place has to of-
bar scene, this watering hole serves
fer. Once inside the compound there
up heaps of personality. Wooden
is a great feeling of separation from
columns and secluded nooks provide
the outside world due to the high
an intimate and fun atmosphere for
factory walls and towering trees but
a relaxed drink or an absinth-soaked
you are given an enormous sense of
night of craziness.
freedom by the sheer vastness of it
all.

93 94
Nightlife Nightlife
Astro Kptn A. Müller Internationales Berliner mishmash of unique architecture,
Bierfestival novelty hats and quirky waitresses
Simon-Dach-Strasse 40. S-Bahn/U- www.kptn.de. Simon-Dach-Strasse make this event well worth a visit.
Bahn Warshauer Straße. Tel: +49 3 32. S-Bahn/U-Bahn: Warshauer www.bierfestival-berlin.de. Karl- However be aware of a change in
029 661 615. Straße. Mon-Sun from 6pm.Drinks Marx-Allee. U-Bahn: Franfurter Tor atmosphere after dark as the relaxed
€0-4. or Strausberger Platz. First weekend environment is often disrupted by
This sci-fi themed bar is always an
excellent place to start or finish There is one reason you have of August. Free admittance. those who have had one too many in
the night. It’s often guaranteed to to visit this bar – the drinks are On the first weekend of every August the sun.
attract a fairly young crowd including cheap, cheap, cheap! Although the Karl-Marx-Allee is transformed into
a number of tourists and with the mismatched decor might be as well, what has been dubbed as ‘the
intimacy of the place it’s great for it just adds to the atmosphere and longest beer garden in the world’.
meeting new people from all walks at €1.50 for half a litre of Sternburg Running from Frankfurter Tor to
of life. who’s complaining? Strausberger Platz, the Berlin ‘Beer
Hanging from the ceiling are robots It’s not just the beer either, cocktails Mile’ encapsulates over 700,000
and behind the bar is made to look like are mostly available at around €3.50 guests sampling 1800 varieties of
the control panel of a space shuttle. and they are not shy of alcohol either. beer from around the world.
Go through to the back room and Basically your first €10 will get you a The International Beer Festival is
they even have the game Asteroids long way. a vibrant blend of entertainment,
playing behind glass panels. eating, drinking and a great place
The only downside is that it can be
Aside from the space adventure the a little cramped and the outside to catch a glimpse of Berliners at
drinks are reasonably priced and seating and tables are packed away play. Attracting a mix of young, old,
the bar staff are often very friendly. at about 11.30pm. However this tourists and locals alike the crowd
There are a wide range of cocktails should not deter, if all the seats are is as diverse as the choice of beers.
which are all large and very strong - taken you can stand up and play An assortment of live music keeps
highly recommended is the caipirinha table football in the back room. the slow moving crowd entertained
for €5. as they amble through. Taster mugs,
available on entry for €3.50, are a
There is always good music playing convenient way of sampling the vast
from electro to punk to reggae and range of beer on offer.
on weekends there are live DJ sets.
Granted there is no room to dance Also be sure to stop at one of the
but foot tapping and moderate hip reasonably priced food stalls for
movements are encouraged. a beer-complimenting snack such
as currywurst or potato salad. A

95 96
Accommodation Accommodation

Eastern Comfort Hostel dorm style complete with their own Ostel - Das GDR Design metres from the Ostbahnhof station,
Boat bathrooms and portholes overlooking Hostel which is just a few stops away from
the river. There is also an option for Alexanderplatz and the rest of Mitte.
www.eastern- campers, who can set up tents on the www.ostel.eu. Wriezener Karree 5.
comfort.com. S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 3 025 * Breakfast €4.50
back of the boat. The floating lounge
Mühlen Strasse 73-77. S-Bahn/U- 768 660. * Bike rental
on the top deck is a must see.
Bahn/Tram: Warschauer Str. Tel: + * Wi-fi
* Internet available Prices:
49 3 066 763 806. Reception 8am-
* Free wi-fi Dorm room: €9
12am.
* Breakfast €4 Single room: €33
* Bedding €5/byo Double room: €54
Prices: * No curfew Feeling a bit Ostalgic and want to
1st class cabins: * Bicycle-hire re-live the days of the GDR before
€64-78 * Laundry service the wall fell? Then the Ostel Hostel
Second class: 4 bed cabin for €19
is an excellent choice.
Dorms: cost €16pp
Camping costs €12pp The hostel has embraced the idea of
Ostalgie, the feeling of nostalgia for
For those looking for a bit of
life in the former GDR, which is still
adventure on the open seas, or in
present in Berliner society today.
this case the open Spree, the Eastern
Comfort Hostelboat is ideal. Each room had been decorated to
emulate the GDR lifestyle, complete
Straddling two up-and-coming
with typical GDR household items,
neighbourhoods, Friedrichshain and
such as patterned wallpaper, mod
Kreuzberg, the boat is docked in the
lamps, and shag carpeting.
ideal location. The hostel itself has
kept its original design and offers The hostel is not the most social
first- and second-class cabins on the hostel since rooms are spread out
upper and lower decks of the ship. between a series of apartment
buildings, but each room is
First class is on the upper deck, and
immaculately clean and has its own
includes private rooms with their
bathroom and a balcony.
own bathrooms and views of the
East Side Gallery or the Spree River. The staff are very friendly and
The lower deck is for aspiring sailors helpful and always willing to answer
with a tight budget. The rooms are questions. The hostel is located a few

97 98
Kreuzberg Information

Kreuzberg is Berlin’s bastion of


counterculture, famous for its
punks, squatters, alternative art
scene and May Day riots. The Eastern
section, from Kottbusser Tor to the
Spree River, is the grittiest, and
the place where the squat scene
developed during the Cold War.
The area remains Berlin’s centre of
alternative politics and nightlife,
with a profusion of riverside bars
and clubs. Oranienstraβe is one of
the main streets, and Wiener Straβe,
Skalitzer Straβe and Schlesische
Straβe are also good for nightlife
and cheap eateries.
Along with its bohemian residents,
Kreuzberg is home to Berlin’s
largest Turkish community, with
one in three residents of Turkish
origin. Immigrant ‘guest workers’
were invited to Berlin after cheap
East German labour was made
unavailable when the wall went up.
It was in Kreuzberg that Turkish-born
Mahmut Aygun invented the doner
kebab. His restaurant, Hasir, still
stands close to Kottbusser Tor. The
Mehringdamm, Bergmannstraβe and
area teems with kebab shops, and
the streets around Viktoriapark are
every Tuesday and Friday a Turkish
some of the liveliest for shops and
market spills out along the river at
cafes. The more conventional tourist
the Maybachufer.
attractions are also in the West,
The area to the West of Kottbusser and include the Jewish Museum and
Tor is slightly more upmarket. Checkpoint Charlie.

99 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 100


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Berlinische Galerie Anhalter Bahnhof 100 people at a time. Nearly 10,000 appearance. The 19th century, the
(Berlin Gallery) victims were deported by means age of mass industry, cried for a
Askanisher Platz 6-7. S-Bahn: of this station to await their fate. greater demand for passenger and
Alte Jakobstrasse 124-128. U-Bahn: Anhalter Bahnhof. Bombing in the Second World War freight trains. These demands were
Kochstrasse or Bus 129. Tel: 78 90 26 For a fragmentary glimpse of one partially ruined the Bahnhof. After before long answered and in 1875
00. Wed-Mon 10am – 6pm. €0-8. of the greatest structural triumphs falling into decay and disrepair, the architect Franz Schwechten
A vivid yellow field of seemingly of Berlin, Anhalter Bahnhof is an it was sadly demolished in 1961, (who also designed Kaiser William
jumbled letters initially lures the eye essential place to pay a visit. Today leaving only its present remnants. Memorial Church) received the task
at the entrance of the Berlinische you are faced only with its imposing of enlarging the station. Considered
First built in 1839, in the relatively
Galerie: Berlin’s Museum of Modern façade on Askanischer Platz. Yet it is a masterpiece of railroad station
early days of locomotives, the train
Art, Photography, and Architecture. the station’s strong visual presence construction in its day, Anhalter
station was modest in size and
Inside the gallery almost overflows and its history that should inspire
with themes including the you to visit.
secessionists, Fluxus, Dada, New Alongside the architectural and
Objectivity, Jungen Wilden group, technological grandeur of the
Russians in Berlin and the avante station, lies the horrific role that it
garde. played in holocaust history. In total,
Originally a private institution the Bahnhof sent out 116 deportation
situated in the Martin-Gropius Bau, convoys, usually consisting of 50 or
the gallery relocated to its new
location in 2004, designed by Huhn
Malvessi, and has flourished into
an excellent national gallery with
an international reputation. The
industrial hall holds many temporary
exhibitions to accompany its
permanent one, as well as lectures,
archives, a library, movies and music.
First Monday of the month has the
cheapest entry at only €2. There is
also reduced admission with a ticket
from the Jewish Museum on the day
of visit and the next two days.

101 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 102


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Bahnhof was the “Gateway to the main exhibition space. people walk though the room,
South” for Berliners. shattering the silence.
Upon descending the stairs, you are
Jüdisches Museum presented with a path system of At the top of the staircase
connecting axes, symbolising three the permanent exhibition
(Jewish Museum) realities in the history of German begins, showcasing 2000
www.jmberlin.de. Lindenstraβe 9 – Jews. The Axis of Emigration details years of Jewish history and
14. U-Bahn: Hallesches Tor. Tel: +49 the Jewish Diaspora of the 1930s, culture in Germany. Whilst
3 025 993 300. Mon 10am - 10pm, eventually leading outside to the their struggle for integration
Tues-Sun 10am – 8pm. Admission: Garden of Exile. The slanting floors is well-documented, it is their
€2.50-€5. and narrowing walls channel the achievements that are the focus
visitor along the corridor, until you of the exhibition. The museum
Since its inauguration in 2001, the
open the heavy iron door to step uses artwork, photographs,
Jüdisches Museum has attracted over
outside into the disorientating and letters and biographies of
350,000 visitors. Thousands came
confusing maze of concrete pillars. both ordinary Jewish people
even before the museum was fully
In comparison, The Axis of the and prominent historical
open to marvel at Libeskind’s bold
Holocaust is a dead end. It exhibits figures, to fully illustrate the
and innovative architecture. The
personal items of Holocaust victims, impact Jewish people had on
museum’s alien appearance demands
such as letters and photographs, and society. The central theme of
attention, and it is worthwhile to
terminates at the end of the passage the museum is the enormous
take a moment before entering to
with the commemorative Holocaust contribution the Jewish
stop and appreciate this.
Tower. The Axis of Continuity population makes to Western
The museum’s exterior, an angular connects the Old Building with the culture, and they are presented
external structure, resembles a main staircase, which leads up to as a race alive with intellect,
thundering lightning bolt, possibly the vast permanent exhibition on creativity, perseverance and
representing a deconstructed Star the second floor. strength of faith.
of David. Its modern metallic facing
Be sure to stop half-way up the main The Jüdisches Museum is
is at odds with the baroque facade
staircase and explore Kadishman’s an example of an architect
of the Kollegienhaus, once an
abstract sculpture, Salechet (Fallen wanting visitors to approach
administrative building to the Court
Leaves), dedicated to victims of the museum with willingness
of Justice in the 18th Century. This
war and violence. The cavernous to engage with his work and
now serves as the entrance to the
hall is filled with 10,000 iron faces, create an emotional link
Jewish Museum, and connects to the
a look of open-mouth terror hacked between people and exhibits.
Libeskind building via a black slate
into each one. Strewn across the The museum is completely out
staircase which leads you to the
floor, the faces clank together as of the ordinary, and an utterly

103 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 104


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Alternative Living in the large-scale graffiti art or the Kreuzberg into an important
anarchical symbol ‘A’ scrawled on hub of multicultural, artistic
Berlin’s alternative scene is vast flags and buildings. and intellectual development.
and runs deep within the city’s After the fall of the wall the
districts. From the peculiar cabaret Although Kreuzberg now resembles
migration of artists to eastern
to the scene of punks that frequently the - graffiti-covered - cloak of
Berlin allowed Kreuzberg to
doze on the lawn at Warshauer eastern districts, it was actually
flourish into the vivacious
Strasse, ‘Alternative’ is a strong and located in West Berlin. Being
district that it is now known to
growing culture here. For many the surrounded by the wall on three
be.
attraction of the underground scene sides and a stone’s throw from East
is its secretive and elusive nature. Berlin, it was deemed an undesirable Kreuzberg’s pulsating, and
The remarkable old squats along the location to live, although very often rather quirky, nightlife
river at Köpenickerstrasse prefer cheap. The low costs attracted a means that getting lost is often
to remain tourist free – utmost population of students, immigrants an exciting venture and can
respect must be practiced at all and artists, subsequently turning be rewarded by a great find.
times if a visit is made, after all it Despite this, orientating oneself
is somebody’s home - and those who in Berlin can also be quite a
are in the know, often like to keep struggle at times and although
it top secret. This helps to maintain the prospect of traipsing the
the immensely mysterious air to the tourist sites of the city with
scene. a large group isn’t everyone’s
cup of tea, tours are a great
The glowing history of Berlin’s squat way to become familiar with
scene and the acquisition of such certain areas. An Alternative
buildings often follow a similar Tour is a great introduction to
story. The fall of the Berlin Wall saw Berlin’s underground scene as
a swarm of people move from east it offers an historical overview
to west which left many buildings in of the numerous squats and
the east uninhabited. These began street graffiti art. There are a
to be snapped up either by artists few companies that run them
who desired such spaces for their on a daily basis (Alternative
work, or by those who disliked the Berlin and New Berlin).
capitalist culture of the west. Thus
the squatting culture in East Berlin Many squats are now categorised
was born. The artistic and political as housing projects as they
aspects still remain and may be seen have contractual agreements

105 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 106


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
and pay (a very minimal) rent.
They run local community projects
offering, among other things: Kino - The Alternative Tour
cinema screenings; Voku - low priced
food; and a range of workshops to www.alternativeberlin.com. Tel:
disadvantaged people in Berlin. +49 1 628 198 264. Meets every
There are art galleries and poetry day at 11am and 1pm, outside
readings in others. Starbucks, under the TV tower at
The Raw-Tempel in Friedrichain is Alexanderplatz.
a great place to get a feel for the The Alternative Tour was a great
community-minded mentality that way to see a whole different
runs through side to Berlin. The first thing
much of the to remember is the difference
underground between tagging and art, although
scene in Berlin. Berlin has a lot of both. The laws
There are around here don’t require building owners
60 different to remove graffiti, and as it is
projects running such an expensive process, many
there ranging just don’t bother. Because of
from night this, Berlin’s street art is forever
clubs to circus changing.
schools. A huge
and impressive skate park has been An informative guide takes you
built and acts as a centre piece for all around the city, through some
the old squat. Residents allow the of Mitte’s back streets, past the
public an opportunity to wander Raw Temple in Friedrichshain,
through, grab a coffee, take pictures and especially around Kreuzberg.
of the graffiti and truly participate in Some artists are well-known, such
the projects they run or the parties as El Bacho; and characters such
they throw. as Little Lucy. After the tour you
will see a whole new Berlin, and
So take a stroll or get a bike and constantly be on the lookout for
explore the streets of Kreuzberg and particular artists.
Friedrichshain to see what you can
find.

107 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 108


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Deutsches Technikmuseum railways to filmography. Schwules Museum
www.sdtb.de. Trebbiner Strasse 9. Formally one of Berlin’s industrial w w w. s c h w u l e s m u s e u m . d e .
U-Bahn: Möckernbrücke. Telephone: sites dating back to 1874, which is Mehringdamm 61. U-Bahn:
+49 30 90 254 275. Tue-Fri 9am- easily noticeable in the buildings Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 30 6931172.
5.30pm, Sat-Sun 10-18 hours, closed architecture, it has become one of Open 2-6pm Mon, Wed-Thurs.
Mon. Price: € €2.50-4.50. Berlin’s most appealing museums. Admission €5, concessions €3.
The German Technical Museum The layout comprises of eight The only museum in the world
offers a cultural history of different sections, each is astounding dedicated to the homosexual
Germany’s industrial technology. and unpredictable. From walking lifestyle, this little museum plays
Don’t be fooled by the title because through the textile and paper- a big part in chronicling nearly
this museum offers interest in many making machinery visitors come back as 1918. From there you go on two centuries of Gay history and
different areas extending from face to face with life-size ships and to the rail sheds, with some of the social change. The museum houses
planes, some planes dating as far first trains on show. a remarkable collection of photos,
The next building leads you through paintings and other assorted art
to photo technology, the science work about Gay life in Germany.
centre and the Vintage Car Depot. Tracing the gradual acceptance
This is a massive insight into how of the homosexual existence with
beneficial the industrial revolution its many trials and tribulations in
was to Germany and there are plenty Europe, there is a big focus on Berlin
of hands-on activities to take part during the World Wars. The ground
in. Why not climb aboard the ships floor allows for temporary exhibits,
or step under giant locomotives, presenting the work of famous Gay
watch an old fashioned picture film Germans such as Herbert List and
or discover the art of brewing? And other local Gay artists.
to finish the tour off visitors can Comprehensive and informative
walk outside into the Museum Park guides are available in many
where there are windmills and the languages to assist in your visit and
water tower. the volunteer staff are both helpful
There’s something for everyone and, and friendly.
in Berlin museum style, there are
many visitor activities and guided
tours making the visit that much
The Deutsches Technikmuseum. more impressive and extraordinary.

109 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 110


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Exploring an Urban must cross two busy streets and pass bronze nudes reclining in
Sculpture Garden under the U-Bahn tracks. the traffic median. Follow
the concrete footpath
U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. The experience of visiting the
across the street toward
Menschenlandschaft is punctuated
Berlin, famously described as ‘poor the garden’s centrepiece,
by urban noise – trains thundering
but sexy,’ is undeniably rich in public Turkish sculptor Mehmet
above and traffic roaring nearby.
art. From the iconic ‘Molecule Man’ Aksoy’s 1987 work
But instead of being an unwelcome
sculpture to the provocative work of Arbeitsmigration.
distraction, this setting actually
street artists such as Emerging from the grass
enhances the meaning
Alias and El Bocho, like alabaster totems,
of the work. The
art is impossible to Aksoy’s sculpture conveys
sculpture garden
avoid in this city. stylized and sometimes
was commissioned
Visitors are sure to disturbing human forms:
to address the
encounter plenty of dislocated body parts,
immigrant experience
impressive work even isolated figures, and
in Kreuzberg, a
if they never set foot huddled masses striving to
neighbourhood which
in a museum. ‘escape’ from the marble.
has absorbed an
One of Berlin’s most enormous immigrant Continuing across the
compelling examples population, while street toward the river,
of public art is the more recently look for several more
Menschenlandschaft, struggling with the works of sculpture
a diverse collection growing pains of scattered throughout
of sculpture that gentrification. The the park. Perhaps the
sprawls from a placement of these most distinctive is Rudolf
leafy pocket park art pieces, in the Valenta’s ‘Line Space,’ a
near Schlesisches ‘leftover’ space stainless steel structure
Tor station toward the River Spree. surrounding a major transit hub, which resembles an
Don’t expect to find much respite encourages the viewer to consider enormous bent paper clip.
here from the grit and gristle of the extent to which immigrants are At the end of this sculpture
Kreuzberg – this sculpture garden integrated into – or isolated from – safari on the south bank of
is unabashedly urban. In fact, to the social and economic fabric of the the Spree, sightseers are
walk the length of this ‘human city. rewarded with a perfect
landscape,’ which features work by view of the magnificent
Walking east along Schlesisches
seven different sculptors, visitors Oberbaumbrücke.
Strasse, look for two voluptuous

111 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 112


Shopping Shopping
NGBK adjacent NGBK exhibition space Box Off Berlin
awaits. Here, through the medium
www.ngbk.de. Oranienstraβe 25. of visual art, questions and issues of w w w. b o x o f f b e r l i n . d e .
U-Bahn: Görlitzer Banhnhof. Tel: social importance are depicted and Zimmerstraβe 11. U-Bahn:
+49 306 165 130. Mon-Fri 12pm-7pm, explored. Exhibits change throughout Kochstraβe. Tel: +49 (0) 30 44
Sat-Sun 12pm-8pm. the year and are often supplemented 70 15 55. Daily from 10.30am.
Wander the streets of Kreuzberg by discussions, lectures and other Sidle away from the tacky
and you are likely to stumble across events. tourist shops surrounding
many individual art exhibits and Upcoming exhibits in 2009-2010 Checkpoint Charlie and
bookstores; visit NGBK and you will include: Shared. Divided. United, discover a refreshingly
experience a unique combination which aims to draw comparison different approach to souvenir
of both. The NGBK bookstore is between the divisive experiences of shopping. Box Off Berlin offers
well-stocked in a number of genres, Germany and Korea; and Amerikana, a variety of quality souvenirs
particularly the Arts, with many documenting the mythology of US created by local designers.
titles available in English. Berlin society and the response of US artists Think more cutting-edge
receives special attention with a to such myths. design, less souvenir shot glass.
vast selection of books covering all
The NGBK bookstore alone warrants Treat yourself to a fashionable
aspects of the city.
a visit, but time things correctly Berlin print, a unique tote or
The relaxed and open atmosphere and you may be fortunate enough to a glossy hardback on Berlin
encourages those browsing to pick inject some art into your shopping street art.
a stool and read at leisure. To the trip. Fair trade and
rear of the store, free entry to the
environmentalism are key
concepts, so enjoy a fair trade
coffee from the coffee bar as
you browse the store and its
compact contemporary art
gallery.
Prices and products are wide
ranging and generally reflect
the high quality and design of
each item. For those on a tight
budget, key rings and pens are
reasonably priced at under €5.
Fair trade, unique, souvenirs from BoxOff

113 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 114


Food & Drink Food & Drink
Modern Graphics that’s being served. Hakata sushi restaurant Belegschaft
w w w. m o d e r n - g r a p h i c s . d e . Staying in the constantly long line at Oranienstrasse. U-Bahn: Görlitzer w w w. d i e b e l e g s c h a f t . d e .
Oranienstrasse 22. U-Bahn: Görlitzer Mustafa’s is certainly worth the wait bahnhof or Kottbusser Tor. Closed Zimmerstraβe 23. U-Bahn:
Bahnhof. or Kottbusser Tor. Tel: +49 as it serves very Mondays. Price: €0-5. Kochstaβe. Tel: +49 3 066 403 254
6 158 810. Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat possibly the best Mon-Fri 7:30am -6pm, Sat 8:30am-
kebabs in Berlin. This sushi restaurant truly is a must
10am-7pm. 7pm, Sun: 9:30 – 6:00pm. Price: €3-
for any fan of Japanese cuisine.
The choice at 8.
This shop is a haven for any fan of It may not visually stand out in
graphic novels, comics or other cult Mustafa’s is very comparison with the various other Amongst the hustle and bustle
merchandise. It contains a huge simple: a kebab; more colourful sushi restaurants in surrounding Checkpoint Charlie lies
selection of each with a more than dürüm kebab the neighbourhood (and there are a calm oasis in Belegschaft.
reasonably-sized section dedicated (in a wrap); a several), but what it lacks in visual
vegetarian or This “organic quick food” café
to novels in the English language. splendour it more than makes up
a vegetarian features a range of soups,
for in superb taste. Herein lies this
The staff are helpful, knowledgeable sandwiches and daily specials at
dürüm. All of the establishment’s crowning glory.
and, most importantly, incredibly reasonable prices. Enjoy your meal
choices include
enthusiastic about the material they The orders are taken on notes in the café’s fresh, modern interior
deep-fried vegetables, an amazing
sell. you write yourself and are served or while people watching outside.
selection of salad and best of all
crumbled cheese to top it off. The without dialogue. Indeed, you may
meat kebabs include sliced chicken find that Japanese can prove to
döner from the large rotating spit. be more effective than German if
you are blessed with such language
What is perhaps so surprising about skills. The food orders will also take
Mustafa’s is that it’s little more a longtime to finally emerge at your
Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap than a fixed hut on the pavement, table, which can be almost torturous
Mehringdamm 32. which can hardly fit the two men as you watch it being meticulously
U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. who serve up the food all day long. made only a few feet away. Fear
There is no seating and only a large not, however, for this is small price
Having a several-metre long queue wooden table to the side where you to pay – along with the pleasingly
may be normal for a kebab shop at can stand and eat. This minimalism small bill - for truly authentic and
four in the morning on a week night, is all part of Mustafa’s unique charm. delicious sushi in Kreuzberg.
in an area located next to a street To top off the effect, Middle Eastern
full of pubs and seedy nightclubs, but music blares from the hut all day, so There is a wide range of dishes on
when there’s a queue that big the you really feel like you’re getting a offer along with a satisfying number
whole day long...one wonders what full Eastern experience. of vegetarian options included in the
must be so special about the food fray. Enjoy the outdoor Belegshaft Cafe.

115 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 116


Food & Drink Food & Drink
Curry 36 if you can’t get enough of a fix you Rundum Mehrzweckcafe guarantee you
can even buy the sausages to take another trip
www.curry36.de Mehringdamm 36. home vacuum-packed. www.cafe-rundum.de. Stresemanstr back for more!
U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 302 37.U-Bahn: Mockernbruke or
51 73 68. Mon- You don’t have to ask the customers Halleshes Tor. S-Bahn: Anhalter On a nice summer
Sun 9am-5am. twice if they enjoy it, Bahnhof. Bus M41, M29. Tel: +49 30 day you can bask
€0-5. standing shoulder to 53085166. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat- in the sun in the
shoulder around tables Sun 10am-8pm. outdoor area
A big fat German some wolf their sausages or alternatively
sausage with down, while others Hidden amongst towering concrete enjoy your meal
curry sprinkled seems to let the taste desolate buildings on this
all over, and linger before forking quiet street in Kreuzberg,
ketchup on the next piece. Two Rundum Mehrzweckercafe
top. One bite Currywurst with fries is a contemporary,
and your mouth will set you back €4.30 minimalistic yet charming
will sizzle with or 2 Currywurst with a café serving generously
the contrasting bread roll costs €3.20. sized meals that
f l a v o u r s . A boulette (a German burst with flavour and
Another bite and specialty of herbed freshness.
you’re hooked mince meat, but nicer Highly recommended
on Currywurst. than a hamburger) with are the daily specials,
The lines move curry costs €1.50. which are generously
fast as sausages,
portioned for the price, Mountains of pasta at Rundum.
fries and drinks
with freshly made pasta
are dished out indoors whilst observing strange
with parmesan, walnuts and basil
with German abstract canvases of nature and
pesto (fantastic for vegetarians),
efficiency. subtle nudity. Service is friendly and
succulent pork and mixed greens or
A delicacy that other places a bowl of hearty tomato ginger soup the staff helpful, so whether you
have tried to re-invent, Curry as just a few tasty examples. want to enquire about a dish or to
36 is a family-owned business get directions to the nearest station
There is also a good selection of
that began as a food cart they are more than happy to help!
baguette fillings and with prices
and expanded over 30 years As Rundum say themselves this really
starting from €3.90 you will be
into a popular place to go for is the place to “eat, drink, chat,
spoilt for choice. The homemade
Currywurst. The food is fresh, relax and enjoy.”
desserts are worth a try, especially
the ketchup is homemade, and
the blueberry muffin, which will

117 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 118


Food & Drink Nightlife
Max und Moritz to your liking here. Its generous
portions, welcoming atmosphere
w w w. m a x u n d m o r i t z b e r l i n . d e . and wonderful food make this Berlin
Oranienstraße 162. Tel: +49 3 069 institution a must. The prices may
515 911. Open daily from 6pm. be a little high for the more budget-
Price: €10-15. conscious traveller with the more
A welcome break from the expensive dishes running up to €14.
predominantly Turkish food found in However there are less expensive
this part of the city, Max und Moritz meals of offer from around €8.50
provides traditional German cuisine. and the setting and atmosphere is
It is famous for cooking up Berliner worth the little extra.
dishes in an authentic and relaxing The restaurant can get quite busy at
setting. times, a testament to the quality of
There is an impressive range of the food, so phone ahead to reserve Badeschiff
these satisfying and hearty dishes. a table or go earlier in the evening
From the traditional, time-honoured to avoid disappointment or a lengthy www.arena-berlin.de. Eichenstraße 4. U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor. S-Bahn:
Berliner Eisbein, a pickled pig foot wait. Treptower Park. Bus 265/N65. Tel: +49 305 332 030.Open from 8am. Admission
with Sauerkraut and potatoes, to €3. Drinks: €3-10.
Kutscher Gulasch, a richly spiced Badeschiff is Berlin’s riverside beach and pool where you can hang out in the
beef stew served sand; swim; tan; and wind down some lazy summer days.
with salad
and dumpling Located in Eastern Kreuzberg, it is perhaps the most famous of the area’s river
noodles. The venues and also one of the most imaginative. Rather than swimming in the
menu certainly river itself, an option probably both undesirable and dangerous, you can swim
leans more and horse-around in a floating pool docked on the river.
towards the Badeschiff has a fully stocked bar serving up whatever summer refreshment
carnivorous in takes your fancy. Located right next door is a food bar serving up Wursts of
nature however various description for when the beers have given you some tipsy munchies.
there are also a
few vegetarian Badeschiff is a must for any summer Berlin trip. Even if you’re just around for a
dishes on offer. long weekends, this a perfect place to hang out after hitting the museums and
before hitting the nightlife…that in-between afternoon time when Berliners
Whatever your take it easy before the nightlife really gets its pace up. Beware, however,
taste, you will spots on this mini piece of Caribbean beach can fill up fast so either get there
find something early or go on a weekday to avoid disappointment.

119 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 120


Nightlife Nightlife
Kiki Blofeld “boathouse” as it is known, which SchwuZ Parties rotate so that they become
consists of a platform raised above monthly events for the clubbing
www.kikiblofeld.de. Köpenicker the river on stilts. The story of this www.schwuz.de. Mehringdamm 61. calendar: nights include L-Tunes, a
Straße 48. U- Bahn: Heinrich-Heine. underground den is quite fascinating U-Bahn: Mehringdamm. Tel: +49 night for the ladies; Madonnamania,
S-Bahn: Ostbahnhof. Tel: +49 1 737 - it was where the East German police 30 6299088. Fri, Sat 11pm-late. €7 where the name says it all; and listen
828 286. docked their boats when travelling entry, €5 before midnight. to disco hits mixed with a retro vibe
Kiki Blofeld, daughter and heiress of across the river to the West. The Mix it up, mingle with the crowd and at Bump! Check their website for
Ernst Stavro Blofeld, the Persian cat- platform is a U-shape and the boats dance the night away at SchwuZ. more events set to make your body
stroking evil villain and arch-nemesis would drive into the middle to dock. This club is a one-stop nightlife rock.
of James Bond, Instead of GDR hotspot which A good
is the patron of police boats, these welcomes all, night out is
the garden club days a floating located within P o p k i c k e r,
named in her inflatable octopus the Schwulen where a mix
honour. So the decorates the Zentrum (Gay of pop and
story goes of this water. Centre) in sport – fussball
bank-side bar and Downstairs has a Kreuzberg. Enter and pingpong
nightclub located fully stocked bar via Café Melitta especially –
on the Spree as well, serving Sundstrom, the are thrown
River. beers for around destination to in for good
€3. The music is chill out with measure. The
Covered in sand
techno/house, and pre-drinks and crowd spices
and with plenty
in true Berlin style chat in-between up their
of places to hang
the club stays open throwing shapes trendy dress
out, this Kikis
into the next day on the dance code with a
really is big, with
on weekends. floor. sports theme
enough space to
fit a lot of mini- With three DJ rooms this venue including football shirts and vest
The clientele of
beach parties. Scattered across the provides clubbers with choice and tops. The music in the main DJ room
Kiki Blofeld is very local - few tourists
outside area are pool- and ping-pong change without having to venture has a familiar feel with the beats of
know of it and it isn’t included
tables as well as an area for making beyond its very own walls. The commercial and global pop vibrating
in many guide books. The vibe is
bonfires. Next to the upstairs bar is variety extends to an eclectic range their rhythms through your body and
certainly that of the well-kept secret
a raised lounging area complete with of themed dance parties hosted soul.
- a hidden paradise complete with an
beach chairs. underground lair with sinister past - throughout the month, ranging Make a calendar date and mix it up at
Ernst Blofeld himself would certainly from punk to pop, and embracing SchwuZ, you won’t be disappointed.
The best part about this place is
approve. everything in-between. Drinks start from €2.80 for a beer.
the downstairs dance floor, the

121 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 122


Accommodation Accommodation

BaxPax Kreuzberg a different culture theme giving There are many communal areas
that added sense of a lively fun throughout as well as the bar and
w w w. b a x p a x - k r e u z b e r g . d e . atmosphere. There are two huge beer garden. There is a relaxing,
Skalitzer Strasse 104. U-Bahn: common areas, shared/private quiet atmosphere and yet it is
Gölitzer Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3 069 518 bathrooms and kitchen facilities close to Kreuzberg’s popular tourist
322. with a sun terrace. attractions and nightlife.
Prices: The hostel is located on the main This hostel has all the essentials
Dorm Rooms: €12. street Skalitzer Strasse, where there for students and backpackers, from
Double Room with ensuite: €25 are plenty of shops, bars, cafes and free guided city tours to the pool
If you like places with character restaurants to suit all tastes. It is table, TV/DVD and tabletop soccer.
then you’ll love this hostel. BaxPax also close to Warschauer Strasse, The location is walking distance
Kreuzberg has a sociable atmosphere Oranienburger Strasse and many to some of Berlin’s major tourist
with a bar/cafe area close to monuments such as the Jüdisches sights, such as Brandenburger Tor
reception along with lots of tourist Museum and Checkpoint Charlie. and Checkpoint Charlie, as well
information and advice including as cafes, bars, restaurants and the
· Lockers and safe available
previous guests views, suggestions local supermarket.
· Internet access
and advice on the ‘word of mouth’ · Breakfast buffet for €5.20 The friendly staff are enthusiastic
board. · Bike hire to help out with any questions or
The whole hostel is very colourful queries you have on what to do (and
and all the dorms are large, fully- not to do) in Berlin plus heaps of
furnished and are decorated with 3 Little Pigs Hostel tourist leaflets, maps, and popular
places on hand at reception.
w w w. t h r e e - l i t t l e - p i g s . d e .
bad wolf. This hostel, also made · Bed linen: €2.50 obligatory
Stresemannstrasse 66. S-Bahn:
of brick, acts as a sanctuary for · Internet access
Anhalter Bahnhof. Tel: +49 3032 662
travellers everywhere. · Kitchen
955. 24-hour reception.
The 3 Little Pigs is a characteristic · Parking
Dorms: (low/high season prices) · Bike rental, €12 per day
art deco building, built in 1910, with
8 bed: €13/15 · Breakfast, €5 all you can eat
lots of old-fashioned features set
6 bed: €14/16
Private double room: €31/32
in the heart of Kreuzberg - one of Meininger Hostel Berlin
Berlin’s most popular social districts. Hallesches Ufer
Everyone knows the story of the
The hostel is clean, bright, colourful w w w. m e i n i n g e r- h o s t e l s . c o m .
Three Little Pigs – how the brick
and tidy throughout and is in great Hallesches Ufer 30.U-Bahn:
Cosy and colourful in BaxPax Kreuzberg. house protected them from the big
condition for the age of the building.

123 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 124


Accommodation Accommodation

Hallesches Tor or Möckernbrücke. separated from upstairs, which has • Breakfast Buffet €4 Located in one of the Turkish
Tel: +49 3 066 636 100. a more chilled atmosphere. Located communities in Berlin, this hostel is
on the top floor is a large breakfast Riverside Lodge in a perfect place for those wanting
Prices:
room and outside balcony terrace w w w. r i v e r s i d e - l o d g e . d e . to stay elsewhere from the city
Dorm Rooms from 14€ to 25€
area where you can see a fantastic Hobrechtstrasse 43. U-Bahn: centre and enjoy the cultural Berlin
Multi-bed room (triple,
Sönleinstrasse. Tel: +49 3 069 515 Turkish atmosphere.
twin, single) from 26€
510. · Internet €2 for the day
to 60€.
· Breakfast for € 4.00.
This newly refurbished Prices: · Complimentary tea and coffee
hostel is perfect for Dorm rooms €21. are available at all times.
students who love Double rooms €26.
to party! Meininger This little charming hostel is perfect
Hostels have two for those who want a place to chill
hostels in Berlin plus from the busy atmosphere. Travellers
more around Germany are close to the action and can get
and London. One good a good night’s sleep. The hostel,
thing about chain although small, is modern, bright and
hostels is they tend tidy with plenty of space, even with
to meet a certain the giant economy-sized lockers and
living standard and the funky canoe in the large dorm.
this particular hostel This hostel consists of one four-bed
certainly meets that. dorm, one six-bed dorm and one
The hostel has recently been view of the Kreuzberg area. double room in the hostel plus three
refurbished complete with clothes double rooms next door, which are
The hostel is close to cafes and
storage space, TV, bathroom, linen apartment style flats.
restaurants and for those on a budget
and towels. There are more than 300
€4 Pizza, located round the corner of The hostel has all the basics with a
beds and all rooms are cleaned daily.
the hostel, is highly recommended. kitchen, two bathrooms and it’s near
Female only rooms are available for
What’s more the hostel offers free to cafes, restaurants, shops and the
the same charge as a standard room.
walking tours and is close to the Sony huge Turkish market on Maybachufer
Located on the ground floor is the Centre, Deutches Technik Museum Straβe every Tuesday and Friday.
newly refurbished bar complete with and Topography of Terrors. The markets are definitely worth a
pool table, comfy couches, TV and • Laundry €5 visit and there are so many different
daily discount bar offers. Although • Luggage Storage stalls from traditional Turkish meals
downstairs is the party area it is • Internet and free WIFI and sweets to clothes and jewellery.

125 Kreuzberg Kreuzberg 126


Charlottenburg Information

During the glory days of the GDR, is another worthwhile site to check
Charlottenburg was a pocket of West out in Charlottenburg. Heavily
Berlin where culture flourished. bombed during World War II, the
Surrounded by the Berlin Wall, the church was left as it was and is now
area was a protected sanctuary an antiwar memorial and a constant
with exceptional nightlife, cafés, reminder of the destruction of the
cinemas and a strong community of war. The church was constructed in
artists, actors, and writers. 1895 for Kaiser Wilhelm I, and now
tourists can visit the church and view
After the fall of the wall, these
a collection of photographs and an
creative communities moved East
explanation of the church’s history.
to blossoming Prenzlauerburg and
Mitte and as a result Charlottenburg Many museums are also located in
lost its edge. Now this area Charlottenburg, such as the Museum
maintains its former glamour with für Fotografie that chronicles the life
Kufürstendamm, locally known as and work of Berlin’s internationally
Ku’damm, the Champs-Elysées of acclaimed photographer, Helmut
the East, lined with ritzy department Newton, and the Erotik Museum,
stores and boutiques for the wealthy for those looking for something a
to splash out whilst on holiday in little different when it comes to
Berlin. Charlottenburg is ideal for museums.
those looking for a bit of quiet in the
constant hustle and bustle of a city
that never seems to sleep.
Charlottenburg’s main attraction is
Schloss Charlottenburg, a baroque
palace located 3km north of Zoo
Station. The palace was modelled
after Versailles and its former
residents include King Friedrich I,
and Friedrich the Great. Its gardens
are perfect for wandering on a sunny
day.
Kaiser - Wilhelm - Gedächtniskirche

127 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg


128
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
commissioned separate exhibitions, each priced was largely impossible. These rooms
in 1699 by the separately (though a Day Ticket can now contain paintings and furniture
Electress of be bought which incorporates all giving a representation of the
Brandenburg three). thoughts and morals of the time.
Sophie Charlotte.
The central exhibition here is the The personalities of the two Queens
After her death,
Old Palace – Sophie Charlotte’s are presented through these rooms in
the building was
original building and Friedrich’s a very lively way, helped by the use
completed and
extension. Downstairs, the rooms of an audioguide, which is included in
extended under
are in the style of Sophie Charlotte’s the entrance price. A must-see is the
the orders of her
day while the upper floor is kept New Wing, which houses the State
husband, then
(as much as possible) to how Queen Apartments of Kings Friedrich the
King of Prussia,
Elizabeth would have known it. Great and Friedrich Wilhelm II. Don’t
Friedrich I, and
Many of the upstairs rooms were forget to enjoy the nature - take a
re-named in
damaged by bombing meaning that stroll around the beautiful gardens
her honour. This
reconstruction in their original form and lakes, or even take a picnic.
relatively small
Schloss Charlottenburg palace in a minor town outside Berlin
Spandauer Damm 10-22. S-Bahn: became the summer residence and
Westend/Jungfernheide. U-Bahn: stately home of choice of many of the
Mierendorffplatz/Richard-Wagner- later Hohenzollerns, and still bears
Platz. Tel: +49 30 320 911. Thur-Sun the marks of many of their lives and
10am-6pm. Day Ticket: €10-14. personalities.

Schloss Charlottenburg certainly has This historic site is of great importance


something for everyone. There is for those interested in the growth
a healthy dose of history for those of one of Europe’s greatest royal
primarily interested in the whys and houses. There is special emphasis
wherefores of this beautiful building, here on the women in this dynasty,
for art and architecture buffs there particularly Sophie Charlotte herself
is a huge amount to see in this and Queen Elizabeth, wife of King
Baroque masterpiece, while there is Friedrich Wilhelm IV, both of whom
lots of human interest if you just like spent much time and energy on this
a good story. building.

Schloss Charlottenburg, originally For the modern visitor, there is much


called Lietzenburg, was first to see. The site itself is in fact three

129 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg


130
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Museum für Fotografie which noticeably influenced society’s the 10th anniversary of the book’s Gedenkstätte Plötzensee
(Museum of Photography) perspective on fashion, women and publication. Amongst the collection
portraiture. are rare portraits of the likes of David www.gedenkstaette-ploetzensee.
www.helmutnewton.com. U-Bahn: Bowie, Grace Jones, Rainer Werner de. Hüttigpfad 1. U-Bahn/S-Bahn:
Zoologicher Garten. Tel +49 30 266 Following Newton’s fatal car crash in Beusselstasse, Bus 123. Mon-Sun
Fassbinder and Andy Warhol.
3666. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, Thur October 2004, shortly after donating 9am-5pm. Price: Free.
10am-10pm. Price: €4-8. Free: more than 1000 of his works to the Complimenting Newton’s works is an
museum, the public exhibition serves exhibition entitled “Three Boys from The Gedankstätte Plötzensee is
Thursdays after 6pm.
to be a mesh of both bereavement Pasadena”. Mark Arbeit, George Holz a small memorial in the north of
One of history’s most daring and and celebration; for the art and man and Just Loomis, three friends of Charlottenburg, dedicated to the
notorious photographers, Berlin- who was Helmut Newton. Newton’s which he worked alongside memory of those executed under the
born Helmut Newton had a distinct and mentored, have 25 pieces of Nazi rule. It stands on the site of a
risqué style; capturing the dramatic On the ground floor of the museum prison, first built in 1868 to house
their collections on display. Selected
and often dangerous side of beauty. is a rare showcase called “Private convicts with short-term sentences.
by June Newton, Helmut Newton’s
Over 1,000 works from Newton Property” which delves into the It was also where some of the most
wife, the cinematic and raw style
are permanently on display at life of the photographer himself. A famous opponents of Nazi Germany,
of the collections share similar
the Museum of Photography. The replication of his Monte Carlo study, including Klaus von Stauffenberg,
undertones to a lot of Newton’s
collection of black and white photos, family photos, and a collection of were imprisoned and executed. For
work.
often focusing on nude women, letters between Newton and other fans of the film Valkyrie this site,
explores the politically incorrect prominent members of society, Together the collaborated display which was not allowed to be used
sexual nature of the human species including Margaret Thatcher, pay makes for an impressive journey as a location due to the controversy
homage to Newton’s work and life. into the eyes of one of the world’s surrounding Tom Cruise’s religion,
The eerie collection is a perfect most controversial and leading may be of special interest.
introduction to the Museum itself as photographers. Although often
the display reveals a prudent quality quite confronting and uncensored, The memorial itself is embodied by a
to Newton’s extensive catalogue of the photographs invite the viewer shrine. In the main room, which still
often misinterpreted pieces. to push past the nude subjects and contains the hooks in the wall from
explore the world around the girl where prisoners were hanged, several
Situated on the first floor and probably wreaths and flags mark the place
and the vision of Newton himself.
the most highly regarded display where many atrocities occurred. In
The extensive collection tastefully
is the temporary exhibit “Sumo”, addition to this chilling reminder of
captures the triumph of desire and
which displays 394 black and white the reality of the prison’s history,
the failure of reality rarely seen in
photographs. Originally the contents there is a small but informative
such an audacious and mischievous
of a giant book, once limited to exhibition on the history of the prison
manner, which is well worth a visit
the coffee tables of a well-heeled and the lives of its more prominent
for those that search beyond a bare
few, the exhibit commemorates victims. However for a site with
glance.

131 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg


132
Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
such an important history, there is Story of Berlin used to establish the presence of together in this way indicates how
relatively little else to see. Kristallnacht and, almost before much this city has led the world in so
www.story-of-berlin.de. realising, the visitor walks over many areas, yet somehow it remains
In a Berlin which is full of memorial Kurfürstendamm 207-208. U-Bahn: real book spines encased within the utterly unique.
after memorial to the victims of Uhlandstrasse. Tel: +49 3 088 720 floor, symbolising the infamous Book
Nazi and Soviet Germany, this small 100. Price: €8-10. Burnings in Bebelplatz. The piles
exhibition may seem like one too
As the Story of Berlin goes, “The only of rubble to evoke post-war Berlin
many for the average visitor. The
tradition this city will accept is that may seem a little heavy-handed
distance from the centre of Berlin
it does not have a tradition”. This and melodramatic to some, but the
may also be troublesome – the
statement is no better proven than decorated living rooms of both East
Gedenkstätte Plötzensee is located
in this eclectic Berlin sensation. and West offer interesting points of
at least a kilometre from the nearest
comparison.
station, though there is a bus that Situated on classy Kufürstendamm,
stops about a 5 minute walk away, inside a shopping centre, the Story of Be warned that there is a lot to read
and you need to walk through an Berlin museum makes no pretence of and take in at once. In addition to
industrial estate to get there. being overly-scholarly or intellectual. this no-senses-bared journey through
Instead the museum is very accessible time, there is also the chance to tour
In many ways though, this remoteness
to all. one of West Berlin’s largest nuclear
adds to the atmosphere perhaps
bunkers. Built to hold a capacity of
helping one to understand the Without assuming that the visitor has
over 3,200 people this bunker was
isolation of the condemned prisoners. any prior knowledge, the exhibition
never used for its intended purpose,
Although this memorial is small, leads through a quick-fire tour of
but the site remains almost exactly
it is very well laid out and gives a Berlin’s history, from 1237-1930,
as it was in the 1970s. Informed
disquieting exposition of the terrible establishing the scene for later, much
tour guides give a fascinating insight
events that took place here. more familiar, events.
into how life in the bunker might
A lot of different media are used to have been like had the bomb ever
create the feeling of moving through dropped.
time; sound effects, videos and life-
The sheer variety of topics covered
size models in particular help the
by this large museum would almost
visitor to feel that they are actually
defy belief, if they were not all
there. Moving forward into the Nazi
linked by their relationship to the
period (descending down an eerily lit
city of Berlin.
narrow staircase), these effects only
become more prominent. This only goes to show how much
depth and diversity Berlin itself
The sound of breaking glass is
has. Seeing all of Berlin’s history

133 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg 134


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Käthe Kollwitz Museum Liebknecht (1919), Brot! (1924),
and the Krieg series of woodcuts
www.kaethe-kollwitz.de. (1922/23).
Fasanenstaβe 24. U-Bahn:
Kurfürstendamm. Tel: +49 308 825 Her work is highly politicised and
210. Mon-Sun 11am-6pm. Price: emotive. It is often bleak, executed
€2.50-5. almost entirely in monochrome,
and displaying an empathy with
Käthe Kollwitz was a German artist the oppressed. The Käthe Kollwitz
working in the first half of the 20th museum houses a
century. Unusually for collection of drawings,
a female artist, she prints and sculptures
was highly successful over four floors, and you
and influential in her can see more sculptures
own lifetime. She in the garden. The
was also a dedicated museum also contains
socialist and, having a collection of self-
lost both her son portraits from 1888 –
and her grandson in 1938.
World War One and
Two respectively, was Kollwitz’ significance
defiantly anti-war. can be seen all over
Berlin: the central
These convictions square in Prenzlauer
made her a target Berg, where the
for the Nazis, who artist lived, is named
removed her from a Kollwitzplatz and
prestigious position at contains a sculpture of her. An
the Academy of Art and banned all enlarged copy of one of her most
exhibitions of her work from 1937 famous works, the sculpture Mother
on. Kollwitz died in 1945, shortly with Dead Son, is the focal point of
before the end of the war. the war memorial Neue Wache on
Pacifist, socialist and maternal Unter den Linden. Her importance
themes are a recurrent feature of to the culture of the city is clear,
her work, exemplified by famous making a trip to this small museum
prints such as the Memorial to Karl a worthwhile addition to any visitor’s

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Arts & Culture Arts & Culture
Olympiastadion Once inside the home support is
History...
immediately recognisable, mainly
Olympische Platz 3. dominating one area of the ground
U-Bahn: Olympiastadion. S-Bahn: The Olympiastadion is probably one of the most historic sites in
with customary continental flag
Olympiastadion. Tel: +49 3 030 688 world sport. The original stadium, the Deutsches Stadion designed by
waving and group jumping.
100. Closed during sporting events. Otto March, was built in time for the 1916 Summer Olympics. Sunk
Price: €3-4, Family: €8. The atmosphere is good especially underground it became the largest sport arena in the world at the time
when the home fans decide to get but was unable to host the games due to World War I. The IOC decided
Going to watch Hertha Berlin play the drums and chants going. However to give Berlin the rights again in 1936 and Hitler took the opportunity to
at the Olympiastadion is more than this can be slightly lost, due to its build a new showpiece stadium to replace the old one.
just seeing a football match. The large capacity, as the stadium only
The games were most famous for sprinter Jesse Owen’s four gold medals
iconic stadium provides a great site sells out when the big teams arrive
which were symbolic in highlighting the ridiculous nature of Nazi race
for football, and entry through the in town.
policy. In surviving World War II, it remains a prime example of the neo-
Olympic rings gives a sense of how This though does have the advantage classical architecture that was so popular with the regime. Features
history and sport have come to mix. of tickets often being readily available such as the Marthantor and Glockenturm remain iconic. After the war
the stadium was used by the British and Americans. From 1963 Hertha
Berlin played there and in 1974 it played host to some World Cup games.
After some debate the stadium underwent renovation work with a state-
of-the-art roof being the principle addition. It has since hosted World
Cup matches in 2006, including the final; and the 2009 World Athletics
Championships.

with a decent price range to choose


from, although it is probably best to
aim for a mid-range ticket.
The team itself is a founding
member of the German FA and their
performances have picked up in
recent seasons but they still have
not reached the illustrious heights of
other German teams such as Bayern
Munich.

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Food & Drink Food & Drink
Aroma Lon-Men’s Noodle House Der Kuchenladen
www.cafe-aroma.de. Kantstrasse 35. Kantstrasse 33. U-Bahn Wilmersdorf w w w. d e r - k u c h e n l a d e n . d e .
U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf Strasse. Tel: Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 519 678. Mon- Kantstrasse 138. U-Bahn: Wilmersdorf
+49 3 037 591 628. Mon-Sun 12pm- Sun 10am-9pm. Price: €4-8. Strasse. Tel: +49 3 031 018 424. Tue-
3am. Price: €3-15. Fri 12pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 12pm-5pm.
Lon-Men’s Noodle House is a family-
Price: €2-5.
On the corner of Kantstrasse run Taiwanese eatery that serves
and Wielandstrasse sits Aroma, a some of Taiwan’s most famous noodle Nestled along Kantstrasse is a quaint
Cantonese style restaurant, and one dishes. This small, simplistically cake shop called Der Kuchenladen
of the bigger and older establishments decorated restaurant resembles (literally, the cakeshop). The brightly
in Berlin’s modest Chinatown. Aroma one you would find on the streets of coloured wallpaper catches the
is one of the few places in Berlin that Taiwan. Not to be confused by the eyes and draws you in, as do the
serves authentic dim-sum. name, you can order dishes aside chandeliers adorned with crystal
from noodles. ornaments. Upon walking in, you are
Though it can get quite busy around
immediately greeted by the aroma of
noon, and on weekends, it is a nice Although they offer a number of
baking chocolate.
and relaxing place to have a late rice entrees, spring rolls, and other
lunch. The German/Chinese speaking appetizers, the dish to try is the Der Kuchenladen is the epitome of a
staff are quick to serve and though beef noodle soup. This comes with storybook sweets shop. The room is
the menus are scarce of any English, a bowl of handmade, freshly drawn lined with a myriad of freshly baked
the colourful pictures make it much noodles and carefully seasoned cakes, jars of jams, and tea sets. The
easier to pick your meal. soup. It is topped with savoury slices small, but well-equipped tables look
of masterfully marinated beef, fit for a tea party.
and sprinkled with tangy, pickled
Their selections of cakes are changed
vegetables.
daily, and range from a simple piece
The meals come in two sizes: €4 of cheesecake to the more exotic
for a small bowl (typical meal Pistazienmilchreistorte. A delectable
sized), or €8 for a large one (for the cake made with rice, pistachios,
hearty traveller). This little piece of cherries, and topped with a light
Taiwan in Berlin is definitely worth layer of jam. Both drinks and pastries
a visit, and though there are some are fairly priced, with the generous
differences from the meals served portions big enough for two.
over 5000 miles away, they are a
close second best.

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140
Accommodation Accommodation

Pension Peters budget than the average traveller.


Singles cost around 58 euros, doubles
www.pension-peters-berlin.de. are 79-85 euros, triples are 95 euros,
Kantstrasse 146. U-Bahn: quads are 105 euros, and five beds
Savignyplatz. Tel: +49 303 122 278. are 120 euros per night. Breakfast is
included in the price.
The pension was opened in the 1930s
and has been run by the same family
for the last fourteen years. It has
brand new facilities and a simple
and artistic design that fits perfectly
with the pension’s sleek atmosphere.
Although the pension is on a busy
street, most rooms surround a
courtyard set back from the main
road, so there is not much of a
problem with noise. The quad rooms
are ideal for groups because if four
people split the price, the cost ends
up being comparable to a hostel, and
groups do not have to share their
bedroom or bathroom.
The pension is walking distance
to many cafés, restaurants and
Price: shops, so travellers will be spoilt
Singles: from €58 for choice when trying to decide
Doubles: €79-85 where to get a meal, or where to go
Triples: €95 shopping. The main shopping street,
Quads: €105 Kurfurstendamm, is a five to ten
minute walk away from the pension.
Located just aound the corner from
Savignyplatz, Pension Peters is * Free wi-fi
perfect for groups of travellers on a * Breakfast buffet included
budget or couples with a little looser * Includes shower, toilet, TV.

141 Charlottenburg Charlottenburg


142
Schöneburg Information

Schöneberg is now one of the more is false. In fact, Berliners had such
gentrified areas of Berlin, but it has high regard for him after the speech
a surprisingly radical past. Around that, the day after his assassination,
Motzstraβe and Fuggerstraβe is the square outside the Rathaus was
the city’s oldest gay quarter, and renamed John F Kennedy Platz. For
Schöneberg is still home to the cafes and bars try the area around
largest gay community in Berlin. Winterfeldtplatz, where there’s also
Nollendorfplatz is the scene of a busy Saturday market.
much of the nightlife, and inside the
U-Bahn station there is a memorial
to homosexuals murdered by the
Nazi regime. Gay life and the rise of
fascism in pre-war Berlin are vividly
described in Christopher Isherwood’s
Berlin Stories, which are based on
his experiences living at Nollendorf
Straβe 17.
Other famous former residents of the
borough include David Bowie and Iggy
Pop, who rented a flat at Hauptstraβe
155 in the late seventies. Sixties
chanteuse Nico grew up here, as did
Marlene Dietrich who is now buried
in Friedhof Schöneberg III cemetery.
Fans of famous gravestones can also
visit the final resting place of the
Brothers Grimm at St. Matthäus-
Kirchhof.
The area’s best known sight is
Rathaus Schöneberg where John F
Kennedy made his famous ‘Ich bin
ein Berliner’ speech in 1963. The
well-known story that the president
actually said ‘I am a jelly doughnut’

143 Schöneberg Schöneberg 144


Arts & Culture Arts & Culture

Trödelmarkt Am Rathaus Botanical Gardens sub-tropical and desert climatic


zones. After you’ve walked through
Schöneberg www.bgbm.org, Königin-Luise- the extensive displays of cacti, visit
John F Kennedy Platz. U-Bahn: Straße 6. U-Bahn: Botanischer the carnivorous plant section.
Rathaus Schöneberg. Sat-Sun Garten. Tel: +49 3 083 850 100. 9am-
9pm in summer. Price: €2-5. The orchid exhibit and the tropical
9am – 4pm.
dome are a must.
This small but perfectly formed Being the second You may also be
antiques haven is a cut above largest botanical lucky to spot an
Berlin’s numerous other flea garden in the unsuspecting
markets. The goods on offer world this beautiful gecko or one
are of high quality and there is reserve allows for of the green
much to choose from. endless wanderings woodpeckers that
and musings while were introduced
In front of the impressive offering a haven
Rathaus Schöneberg, stalls to create a more
from Berlin’s nearby authentic and
overflow with furniture, arts and urban landscape.
crafts, vintage clothing, vinyl stable ecosystem.
records, books and jewellery. It boasts 126 acres The park’s museum
of lawns, forests and consolidates many
Whilst others may come away lakes and is home
from Moritzplatz with a pair aspects of the
to 22,000 species garden itself, and
of tie-dyed Harem pants, at of flora nurtured
Schöneberg visitors barter for enables visitors to
in the many see the gardens
Art Deco chandeliers, mink different gardens
stoles, antique books and as they are in
and habitats of the different seasons.
silverware. park. There are exhibits that explore the
Prices start out high, given Amongst the tall trees and idyllic different scientific plant structures
the nature of what’s on offer, lakes there is an elegant Italian and others that focus more on the
but haggling is both the norm garden, a medicinal plant garden, complex relationship between plants
and expected. Books written and a section where you can handle and culture.
in English are also widely unusually shaped and scented
available, which sell for around So whether a nature buff, a tree-
varieties of plant and flower – the hugging hippy or just in need of an
€3 each. There are bargains fragrance and touch garden.
to be had if you are ready and escape this is something that should
willing to search. The striking bio domes house tropical, not be missed.

145 Schöneberg Schöneberg 146


Shopping Food & Drink
meal from one of the many eateries plasma televisions that screen sport
nestled amongst the food and drink regularly.
counters.
Sunday brunch is offered from 10am-
The grandeur of the designer- 3pm where pancakes, muffins and
lined “Luxury Boulevard” is equally eggs cooked to your preference may
worth perusing. Whether or not you be guzzled. Substantial portions,
have the appropriate-sized wallet with main courses starting from €5.
to tackle this Berlin institution,
KaDeWe is certainly worth any Rani
ardent shopper’s time. Goltzstraße 32. U-Bahn:
Nollendorfplatz or Kleistpark. Tel:
Route 66 +49 30 215 267. Open daily from
http://route66diner.de. Pariser 11am. Main dishes from €5, side
Straße 44. U-Bahn: Weberwiese. Tel: dishes from €2.
+49 308 831 602. Sat-Thurs: 10am-
Slightly hidden away in the streets
2am, Fri & Sat: 10am-4am.
of Shöneberg lies this tasty Indian
This 1950’s American diner-themed restaurant. There is a large selection
restaurant offers a broad menu of of incredibly flavoursome traditional
typical US and Mexican cuisine. Indian meals available at very
KaDeWe evening and cocktail fashion to
accessories for dogs. reasonable prices.
The restaurant utterly
www.kadewe.de. Tauentzienstraβe
If the enormity of this Berlin indulges in kitsch, and The atmosphere is
21-24. U-Bahn: Wittenbergplatz.
establishment seems overwhelming, is kitted out with an suitably casual as diners
Tel: +49 3 021 210. Mon-Thurs 10am-
then direct your energy towards the excess of neon lights, tuck into what inevitably
8pm, Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 9.30am-
gastronomic glory of the sixth-floor eating booths and mini becomes a monstrous
8pm.
food hall. The incredible array of fine duke boxes at each feast as the aromas and
For those in need of some high- foods and wines on offer cannot fail table. flavours lure you into
end retail therapy, this seven floor to impress. trying many of the dishes
The steaks are juicy,
“department store of the West” holds on offer.
Treat yourself to some quality the burgers wholesome
claim to being the second largest in
German confectionary or limited and milkshakes are A highlight on the menu
Europe.
edition designer mineral water as you thick and creamy. is definitely the Tikka dishes that
As expected from somewhere bearing pass through. Alternatively, linger come served to the table on a frying
There is substantial in and outdoor
such an accolade, the assortment of for longer and enjoy an informal skillet, much to the allure of other
seating space and a selection of
goods on sale is vast, ranging from guests in the restaurant.

147 Schöneberg Schöneberg 148


Food & Drink Food & Drink

Joseph Roth Diele Value for money is key here with Munch’s Hus Restaurant delicious meatballs. For those
average daytime meal prices starting seeking a light lunch, sandwiches
www.jrd.cumed-arts.de. Potsdamer from as low as €4. In spite of the www.munchshus.de. Bülowstraße and salads are also available.
Strasse 75. U-Bahn: Kurfursten low price, the food is delicious and 66. U-Bahn: Bülowstraße. Tel: +49
Strasse. Tel: +49 26 369 884. Mon- 30 2101 4086. Mon-Sun 10am-1am. The restaurant’s interior adds a
hearty, if not totally inspiring, and
Fri 10am-12am. Lunchtime specials Prices range from €4-€17. sophisticated touch, with large open
is perfect to be enjoyed in such a
from €3. windows, summery yellow walls and
humble establishment. As the only Norwegian restaurant in paintings by Norwegian artist Edvard
At first glance this small but The most appealing aspect of the Berlin, this place is definitely worth Munch who lived in Berlin in the
charming German restaurant along restaurant however can be found a visit if you fancy a change from 1890’s.
Potsdamer Strasse appears to almost its art-deco style. A wonderful Currywurst.
resemble a 1920’s American diner. The light atmosphere and the
Situated in the Schöneberg district, affordable yet high quality food make
However, the only
Munch’s Hus boasts a range of this restaurant a hit with everyone
similarity here lies
traditional Norwegian delicacies from businessmen to students.
in its collection of
including fresh fish dishes and
old photographs and
memorabilia that
give testament to
the establishment’s
rooted history.
Named after a
Jewish writer whose
material can be
found throughout
the dining room, it
provides a limited
but delicious
selection of meals
that vary throughout
the week. contrast of abstract furnishings
During the daytime, the menu is and old photos can be found within
limited to a daily special (one meat to suitably accompany your meal.
and one vegetarian), and in the There are a wide range of barrel and
evening there is a slightly more bottled beers on offer, in addition to
expansive range of meals on offer. a respectable selection of wines.

149 Schöneberg Schöneberg 150


Accommodation Accommodation

Jungen House Aletto Although the hostel is on the main Sunshine Hostel key if you arrive late at night.
road, Grunewald Straβe, the whole
www.aletto.de. Grunewaldstrasse w w w. sun sh in e h ouse - b e rl in . d e . The staff can also prepare breakfast
hostel is quiet – something they pride
33. U-Bahn: Eisenacher Strasse. Tel: Wexstrasse 8.U-Bahn/S-Bahn: for hungry travellers, which is lovely
themselves on. The only drawback
+49 3 021 003 680. Insbrucker Platz. Tel: +49 308 262 to eat outside in the courtyard or
is there’s no lift to this five storey
079. in the apartment if it’s cold. If you
Prices: building.
fancy eating out there are plenty
Dorm rooms: €15. · 24-Hour Reception Prices: rooms from €19.50 of cafes and restaurants as well as
Single Rooms: €35. shops round the corner from the
· All-you-can-eat breakfast This colourful hostel is a place for
Double Rooms: €39. hostel.
travellers of all ages. The hostel has
This modern style hostel at first · Linen provided a definite community feeling with · BYO towels
glance looks like a hotel with friendly English-speaking staff who
plenty of places to wind down after are very considerate to their guests · Breakfast €5 by request
sightseeing. Jungen House Aletto needs. Although the hostel is close to · Internet and WIF
has a relaxing sociable atmosphere the motorway it has a huge courtyard
where you can meet other travellers area with plenty of places to relax in
while drinking tea or coffee courtesy the sun or have a BBQ lunch.
of the hostel.
The hostel has four separate blocks
There’s a lot to do in and around with four levels. Each level is similar
this area as the hostel is a stone’s to that of an apartment building with
throw away from the U-Bahn and four bedrooms, two bathrooms and a
tram stops, which can take you to small fully-equipped kitchen.
popular streets like Goltzstraβe and
All the rooms are furnished and
Akazienstraβe and the tourist spots
there’s heaps of space for even the
such as KaDeWe, Gedächtniskirche
largest suitcases. There are keys to
and the Zoo.
each room and each floor as well as
Each room has all the essentials and the gates to the grounds so it is very
are ensuite. The rooms are compact safe.
as they’ve certainly made use of
There is also a lounge/basement area
their space but there is heaps of
with TV, foosball and comfy sofas. It’s
storage so you won’t be tripping
very light, spacious and is kept clean
over people’s luggage. All the rooms
and tidy, ready for use. Although
are modern, clean and each bed is
there’s not 24-hour reception there
provided with linen and towels.
is a code lock system to retrieve your

151 Schöneberg Schöneberg 152


Contributors Contributors

153 154
Contributors Credits

Zaineb Al Hassani Mara Pattison-Sowden Editor: Mara Pattison-Sowden


Talya Friedman Elizabeth Janowski
Natascha Vogel Lucy Bates Layout: Mara Pattison-Sowden
Ben Dillman Rebecca Dopson Zoe Milne
Adam Willsmore Kirsten Rumbles Matt Wilson
Sebastian Cure Helen McFadridge
Emily Vindler Piers Leonard Graphic Design: Matt Wilson
Pamela Mair Tom Foster
Kaye Nicolson Rosanne Visser Art Direction: Matt Wilson
Daniel Smith Alison Holland Mara Pattison-Sowden
Karolin Hosenfelder Kieran Monaghan Zoe Milne
Michael McKay Jay Patani Sebastian Cure
Sierra Bucher Alana Marmion-Warr Rosanne Visser
Sara Johnstone Katie Clark
Jason Chen Peter Bolton Photography and Photo Editing: Rosanne Visser
David Vanderhoff Michael Alhadeff Tom Foster
Nadine Truong Dorothy Melander-Dayton Matt Wilson
Charlotte Nettleship Zoe Milne Nadine Truong
Matt Wilson Nicky Branagh Project City Travel Review by:
Amy Yu Sheena Odwyer
www.citytravelreview.co.uk
Jessica Davidson
www.curso24.de

155 156
Credits Credits
©:
Zaineb Al Hassani Mara Pattison-Sowden
Talya Friedman Elizabeth Janowski
Natascha Vogel Lucy Bates
Ben Dillman Rebecca Dopson
Adam Willsmore Kirsten Rumbles
Sebastian Cure Helen McFadridge
Emily Vindler Piers Leonard
Pamela Mair Tom Foster
Kaye Nicolson Rosanne Visser
Daniel Smith Alison Holland
Karolin Hosenfelder Kieran Monaghan
Michael McKay Jay Patani
Sierra Bucher Alana Marmion-Warr
Sara Johnstone Katie Clark
© All Contributors 2009 Jason Chen Peter Bolton
David Vanderhoff Michael Alhadeff
This document or part thereof may Nadine Truong Dorothy Melander-Dayton

not be reproduced without express Charlotte Nettleship Zoe Milne

permission from the authors. Matt Wilson Nicky Branagh


Amy Yu Sheena Odwyer
Jessica Davidson

157 158