House & Home
Koi
Learn how to care for these
stunning, elegant fish.
Koi make beautiful, docile, and interesting pets. This guide shows you how to take
the best possible care of your new fish, including:
Meet the Koi
The keeping of koi is a hobby that can last a lifetime: well-
cared-for koi can live for decades. The care of these beauti-
ful fish is relatively basic, but they require an enormous
amount of space in which to live, so koi are almost always
kept in large outdoor ponds. Keeping koi can be a wonderful
and rewarding experience, but the high cost of the fish
themselves and the construction of their habitat makes koi
ownership a task that no one should enter into lightly.
Natural History
Koi are descendants of the common carp (Cyprinus carpio).
They originated in China and first appeared in Chinese writ-
ings dating from around 300 CE. When the common carp
arrived in Japan roughly 1,000 years ago, farmers kept the
fish in their mud ponds to supplement their daily diet of rice
and vegetables. After several centuries, reportedly around
1840 CE, the carp produced mutations that formed the be-
ginning of the modern koi’s colorful appearance.
These first “colored carp” originated in the Niigata pre-
fecture of Japan, where fish farmers produced and kept
the fish as a hobby (rather than eating them). A process of
selective breeding over the following decades produced the
many color and pattern variations that exist among the dif-
ferent strains of koi now available.
Appearance
Koi vary a great deal in terms of coloration and pattern,
but in general they are very large fish capable of reaching
up to 40" (1 m) in length. They have two pairs of barbels
(slender protrusions covered in taste buds that help the
koi find food), one pair on either side of the mouth. These
barbels help differentiate koi from goldfish, which some koi
can resemble.
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• The best places to acquire a koi
• The gear you need to create the right environment for your koi
• Feeding and healthcare tips to prolong your koi’s life
As juveniles, koi have an inferior mouth—a mouth point- • Kohaku: The first and most common koi variety,
ed downward that helps the fish feed off the bottom of the Kohaku are white fish with overlying red patterns in
pond. As the koi age, their mouths gradually turn upward. various shapes and sizes. Even distribution and high
intensity of the red markings (hi in Japanese) are the
Koi Classes signs of a good-quality Kohaku.
Although all koi are of the same species (Cyprinus carpio),
there are countless different types of koi within that species.
The terms used to describe different koi are class and vari-
ety. Each class comprises one or many varieties. For exam-
ple, Kohaku, Sanke, and Showa are all single-variety classes,
while the Kawarimono class includes dozens of unique variet-
ies of koi. There are also subvarieties within each group, with
Japanese terminology to distinguish them from other, similar
koi. The Kohaku class alone has distinct terms for two, three, • Sanke: A Sanke is essentially a Kohaku with additional
and four-step-pattern koi; words to describe their scalation; black markings that shouldn’t extend below the lateral
and other terms that describe their markings. line. (The lateral line is a narrow canal under the scales
This system can seem a bit overwhelming for people that begins behind the gill cover and extends the entire
new to the hobby: for example, a Doitsu Sandan Maruten length of the body to the base of the tail. It is made of
Kuchibeni Kohaku is a white and red nonmetallic fish small sensory pores that can detect the slightest
(Kohaku) with mirror scales (Doitsu), a three-step pattern vibration in the water.) Variations of Sanke include
(Sandan), a separate patch of red on the head (Maruten), Matsunosuke Sanke, which show faint blue-gray colors
and red lips (Kuchibeni). Fortunately, you don’t need to that gradually deepen to black; Aka Sanke, which have
know all of this terminology to select a quality fish. But large areas of red uninterrupted by the pattern; and
being able to at least recognize some of the different Maruten Sanke, which have self-contained red
classes of koi will help you choose the type that’s most markings on the head and elsewhere on the body.
aesthetically pleasing to you. The following are just a few of
the different koi classes available for purchase.
• Bekko: Koi with a white, red, or yellow base and black
markings are classified as Bekko. The Shiro Bekko, a
white koi with black markings in the same configuration
as a Sanke, is the most common. Other varieties
include the Aka Bekko, a red fish with black markings
and no traces of white; and a Ki Bekko, a lemon-yellow • Showa: First developed in 1927, the traditional Showa
koi with black, Sanke-type markings. is predominantly red, with black and white in roughly
equal proportions throughout the body. If more than
half the body appears red when viewed from above,
the fish is referred to as a Hi Showa.
 www.quamut.com Koi

• Utsurimono: Although there are three varieties of koi
classified as Utsurimono, only one, the Shiro Utsuri, is
common to the pet trade. A Shiro Utsuri is a glossy, jet-
black fish with white markings. The amount of black
increases as the fish ages. Utsurimono with red as the
secondary color instead of white are known as Hi
Utsuri and closely resemble Hi Showa except that they
lack white coloration.
Personality
Koi are among the most social of fish, especially with regard
to their keepers. They possess an impressive ability to rec-
ognize their owner from other humans, and it’s not uncom-
mon for koi to come to the surface of their pond when their
favorite human passes by (and ignore the presence of other
people altogether).
Koi are relatively docile fish and can’t share a pond with
more aggressive types. Their placid nature, coupled with
their bright colors, make them likely targets for bullies and
other predatory fish.
Where to Get a Koi
Although koi are expensive, in the long term the cost of the
actual fish is small compared to the outlay of the pond and
the ongoing bills for food, medications, and electricity place.
When purchasing koi, buy the best one you can afford.
Japanese koi are considered the finest in the world
and are consequently the most difficult and expensive to
acquire. Even ordinary-grade Japanese koi compare fa-
vorably with the best koi from other countries such as
Israel, the United States, South Africa, China, Singapore, and
Cyprus. As the quality of the fish improves, the asking price
rises, so when acquiring a koi you must balance the fish
you want against the fish you can afford.
How to Obtain a Koi If you choose to acquire a fish from a dealer, find a
You can obtain koi from a variety of sources, including: reputable one through an aquarium club or organization, or
research fish breeders on the internet. When visiting a new
• Aquarium stores dealer for the first time, keep an eye out for the following:
• Internet vendors
• Specialist dealers • Are the premises nicely laid-out and tidy?
• Does the staff use separate nets for each pond or vat
Until you gain experience in the hobby, ask a seasoned koi and disinfect them between uses?
keeper to assist you in making the best possible choice. • Does the dealer stock all the necessary equipment for
Allow yourself plenty of time to view the fish, ask questions koi care as well as the fish?
of the vendor, and avoid making a purchase unless you see • Is the holding water in which the koi are kept well
a fish you really want. filtered and clear?
• Do all the fish appear healthy?
Aquarium Stores
Koi are available for A dealer who meets all these criteria is likely to be an excel-
purchase both in large lent source for koi.
chains and local fish
stores. If you buy your How to Choose a Healthy Koi
koi from one of these As with any animal, it’s important to pick a healthy individ­
stores, it’s likely to be ual. This is especially true for koi, which are more expensive
less expensive than it than most other aquarium fish. When examining prospective
would be from a spe- koi, look for the following characteristics:
cialized dealer, but the fish itself will be of lesser quality, and
the employees aren’t likely to know much about the proper • Good body shape and skin quality
way to keep koi. Aquarium stores are good sources for koi • Well-distributed pattern along the full length of
if you’re unable to purchase from a dealer or are new to koi the body
ownership and inexperienced in caring for these fish. • Nicely shaped head
If you buy a fish from an aquarium store, you can take it • Fins that are in proportion to the body
home that day. • Straight spine
• Lively, energetic behavior
Internet Dealers • No signs of illness, injury, or parasites
Many koi retailers worldwide now have their own websites,
enabling you to purchase koi online. These sites usually No koi is perfect—all fish exhibit both good and bad quali-
feature a description of the company, a list of available koi ties. But the merits of top-quality koi invariably outweigh
and associated products for sale by mail order, and images their faults. Even koi with minor abrasions and splits in their
of available fish. However, even the best photos can give fins can heal with proper treatment. Still, try to purchase koi
a misleading impression of the fish, so be cautious about that are as healthy and free of blemishes as possible.
buying a koi without seeing it first, especially if you lack
experience with the fish.
Before you make an online purchase, research any deal- Gear for Your Koi
ers that interest you to make sure that they are reputable. Because koi are such
If you buy a fish in this manner, you’ll probably have to pay large fish, the setup
additional shipping charges to ensure speedy delivery. you must provide for
them is considerably
Specialist Dealers different from that
A dealer is the ideal required for a smaller
place to purchase your aquarium fish. The
koi. Reputable dealers biggest difference is how koi are housed: rather than keep
care about their fish and an indoor aquarium, most people keep koi in outdoor ponds
are a valuable source of that are much larger than the average fish tank.
advice and assistance
to those who purchase Pond
from them. Good deal- A koi pond is a large and expensive undertaking. Whether
ers only sell to buyers they feel will take proper care of you purchase a precast fiberglass pond, design and build a
their fish, and they will likely refuse to sell until they are pond on your own, or hire a professional to install a pond
convinced the buyer’s pond is suitable for koi. for you, it must be well built, sturdy, easy to access and
maintain, and of the right size to hold the number of koi you
plan to purchase. If you choose to design and build your own
pond, consult a professional about your plans before you
attempt the project and as you proceed.

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Text and photos
© 2008 TFH Publications Inc.
All rights reserved.
The Leader in Responsible Animal Care for Over 50 Years! ® Quamut is a registered trademark of
www.tfh.com Barnes & Noble, Inc.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in the United States
Content derived from the book The Essential Book of Koi: A Complete Guide to Keeping and Care ISBN: 978-0-7938-0623-2
This document has been published with the intent to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter within. While every reasonable precaution has been taken
in preparation of this document, the author and publisher expressly disclaim responsibility for any errors, omissions, or adverse effects arising from the use or application of the information
contained herein. The techniques and suggestions are used at the reader’s discretion and are not to be considered a substitute for veterinary care. If you suspect a medical problem consult
your veterinarian.
 www.quamut.com
Size
Plan to provide a minimum of 300 gallons (1136 L) per fish,
but even more than this is ideal for allowing your koi ample
room to grow. An improperly sized or overcrowded pond
can lead not only to stunted growth but often chronic dis-
eases such as fin rot or ich due to poor water quality and
high stress levels. If you don’t have room in your yard or
garden for a very large koi pond, adjust the number of fish
you plan to keep in your pond according to the space you
do have.
Design
A number of factors will determine the shape of your pond,
including the amount of space it can occupy, the existing
landscaping in your yard, and your own tastes. For example,
if your pond will be built within or adjacent to a patio, the
design is likely to be very formal: rectangular, L-shaped,
aboveground with brick walling, or something similar. Infor-
mal circular or kidney shapes are usually associated with a
more natural design, and it’s easier to control water flow
with these types than with rectangular ponds.
Materials
When building a new koi pond, your first consideration must
be what materials to use. Your decision should take into
account the ground conditions in the intended location,
financial constraints, and the planned shape of your pond.
The following are the three most popular pond types:
• Liner ponds: The quickest and least expensive method
of building a pond is to dig a hole and fit a liner into it.
The three main options are PVC (for small ponds only),
butyl rubber, and EPDM rubber. Even though installing
a liner is an easier method of building a koi pond, it’s
still a large undertaking for which you will likely require
professional help.
• Precast fiberglass: Precast ponds are tough,
durable, and quick to fit. Not much building knowledge
is necessary to install them, and they are available
in a variety of shapes and designs from several
manufacturers. However, they are also relatively
expensive, and most are too shallow to be suitable
for koi. If you choose to install a precast pond, use
one that can hold an excess of 1,000 gallons (3,785 L),
because this volume reacts more slowly to temperature
variations. (It also may be a good idea to add an inline
heater to stabilize the water temperature.)
• Rendered block-built: Built out of cement blocks and
then lined on the inside, this type of pond is strong
and lacks the creases that might form in a liner pond.
However, they are expensive, time-consuming, and
demand a wide range of skills, including bricklaying,
plastering, plumbing, fiberglassing, and carpentry,
as well as a thorough understanding of electricity
supply, loading, and wiring. This type of pond requires
professional installation.
Location
Build your pond as close as possible to your home so
that you can view the fish all year long and in all weather
conditions. However, the excavation must be at least 39"
(1 m) away from the house, or you’ll risk undermining your
house’s foundation.
Also, because your pond will become a major feature
of your yard, consider how it will affect the other aspects
of your yard (and vice versa). For example, when you mow
your lawn, will the grass clippings fall into the water? Could
any pesticides you use in your yard pollute the water? Will
you need to prune any trees that would hang over the pond?
If you build the pond using a liner, are there any roots from
nearby trees and large shrubs that could puncture it? You
must address these questions before installing your pond.
If you have young children or pets, locate your pond
carefully to prevent accidents. A raised pond with a deco-
rative pattern on the wall around the perimeter is an ideal
design. When your children are old enough that the pond no
longer poses a danger, you can remove the paneling.
Filters
Koi have considerable body mass and consume food ac-
cordingly, thus producing a lot of waste, which they expel
into the water. A filter is the most important piece of equip-
ment you will purchase for your pond because it removes
toxins and impurities from the water that these wastes
cause. There are three basic pond filtration methods:
• Mechanical: This
filter removes mat­
ter in the pond,
such as excrement,
uneaten food, and
old vegetation
from aquatic
plants. The water passes through a sponge or floss
medium inside the filter and then flows back into the
pond, capturing these waste particles.
• Biological: The
most important
filter in your
pond, a biological
filter is a special
bacterial colony
growing in a medium through which the pond water
is directed to pass. Some good bacteria eat ammonia
produced by the fish, changing it to nitrite, which is
eaten by other bacteria, turning it into far less harmful
nitrate. Biofiltration bacteria must attach to a surface.
Porous materials such as sponges and lava rocks
provide an abundant surface area on which good
bacteria can grow.
• Chemical: Chemical filtration removes unwanted
substances from the water by chemical means. The
most common medium is activated carbon, but resins
are available to remove specific contaminants such as
phosphate or ammonia. A chemical filter won’t remove
all the pollutants in the water, however, and must be
used in conjunction with other filter types.
How to Select a Filter
You can choose from a variety of commercially available
filters. Some of these filters are basic and only provide one
means of filtration, while others combine more than one
or all three. These are the ideal filters for your koi pond.
You want a filter that can keep up with the large amount of
waste that koi produce, with an abundant surface area for
colonization by good bacteria. Also, the filter should be easy
enough to maintain that you won’t dread having to clean it
(and thus do so less frequently).
Choosing the correct system can be a difficult decision,
especially if you’re on a limited budget. Remember that this
is the single most important purchase you’re likely to make
when constructing your pond, and any mistake could be
extremely costly in the long run. Research possible filters
thoroughly before deciding which system is best for you.
Koi
Temperature
Water temperature has a profound influence on the physiol-
ogy and health of koi. Warmer temperatures cause koi to
become more active, eat more, grow, produce more waste,
and spawn. Decreased temperatures, on the other hand,
cause koi to become less active, and their appetites decline,
as does the efficiency of their immune systems.
Although heating your pond isn’t absolutely essential—
as long as the water doesn’t freeze in the winter, your koi
will adjust to seasonal temperatures—it does give you the
ability to control your fish’s environment completely. Also,
if you acquire your koi from a breeder who keeps his fish in
heated ponds, your fish has never experienced cold water
conditions and should live in water at the temperature to
which it’s accustomed. You can either acclimate your fish
to colder temperatures over time or simply maintain a con-
stant temperature by heating your pond.
However you choose to heat your pond, the heater
must have a thermostat that allows you to adjust the water
temperature. Because your pond is outdoors and exposed
to the elements, keep a thermometer in the pond and check
the water temperature daily, adjusting the heat as needed.
Decorations
How you decorate or
landscape your pond
and the surrounding
area is entirely up to
you, as long as nothing
that you add can be
harmful to your fish.
For example, before
adding any live plants,
research the type you
are thinking of including to make sure that it isn’t toxic to
fish. Also, avoid including anything with sharp edges that
your koi could scrape up against and hurt itself on. As long
as your decorative ideas are safe for your fish, you’re limited
by only your imagination (and your budget).
Pond Maintenance
With any aquarium comes a certain amount of necessary
maintenance tasks that you must perform on a daily,
weekly, or monthly basis, depending on the chore.
Daily Tasks
You’ll need to perform the following tasks on a daily basis:
• Check the water level of the pond.
• Observe each inhabitant to see if any are behaving
strangely or appear to have health problems.
• Glance at the thermometer to make sure that the water
temperature is adequate.
• Check the filter to make sure that it is running
properly—and that a particularly rambunctious fish
hasn’t damaged it.
Weekly Tasks
Weekly maintenance of your koi pond should include:
• Perform a partial water change.
• Inspect filter cartridges to see if they need replacing.
• Inspect hoses and the pond itself for leakage.
• Offer your fish a treat in the form of live insects or
orange slices.
• Test the water quality to make sure that the pH,
oxygen, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels
are acceptable.
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Monthly Tasks
Perform the following tasks once every month:
• Perform a major water change.
• Service the filter thoroughly (not at the same time as
the water change).
• Check all air hoses and connections.
Filter Care
Clean your filters about
once every month, but
don’t clean them com-
pletely. A perfectly clean
pond with an immacu-
late filter is actually not
healthy for your fish.
Without the good bac-
teria that can grow on
filters and other surfaces, toxins such as ammonia are more
likely to thrive. Rinse sponge filters gently in pond water so
that the good bacteria remain undisturbed.
Mechanical filters require more thorough cleaning so
that the filter doesn’t get clogged and leave excess wastes
in the water, producing more toxins than the good bacteria
in the pond can handle. If your filter contains a cartridge,
take the cartridge out and discard it, then replace it with a
new cartridge that has first been run under treated water
(water with chlorine and chloramine removed with commer-
cially available chemicals) at the same temperature as the
water in the pond. Clean only one filter at a time in old pond
water to remove as few beneficial bacteria from the pond
as possible.
How to Acclimate Your Koi
The process of accli-
mating a new koi helps
it adjust to the water in
the new pond where it
will live. Acclimation is
absolutely necessary
for all new fish: if the
chemistry of the water
in your pond is drasti-
cally different from that of the water in which the koi arrived,
the chemical shock can kill the koi outright or weaken it so
badly that it succumbs in a short while. Acclimation not only
keeps a new koi from receiving these severe shocks but also
prevents the introduction of any outside disease organisms
or unwanted chemicals into your pond.
The following method of acclimation takes a little time
but requires only a container and some airline tubing.
1. Place the koi in a large, shallow container with all the
transport water.
2. Remove some of the transport water until it slightly
exposes the back of the koi.
3. Tie a loose knot in the length of airline tubing.
4. Put one end of the tube into the pond, and suck on the
other end to start a siphon.
5. As soon as the water begins to flow through the tube,
tighten the knot until the water is merely dripping
slowly from the tubing into the container. (You want
just a drop or two to escape per second.)
6. When the volume of water in the container has doubled
or tripled, stop the drip and remove the volume of
water needed to slightly expose the fish’s back again.
7. Repeat the siphoning process at least two more times
to ensure that the majority of the old water has been
removed.
8. Allow the koi to sit in the container (which now contains
mostly new pond water) for another 10–15 minutes.
9. Carefully net the koi out of the container, then release
the fish into the pond.
This method equalizes all water conditions, including tem-
perature, between the pond and the water in which the
new koi has been swimming. It takes a while, but it’s time
and effort well spent.
Koi Quarantine
Regardless of where a
koi originates or how
expensive it is, there’s
always the potential
for it to be carrying se-
rious bacterial infec­
tions or viral diseases
upon arrival. If you are
adding a new koi to an existing koi pond, you must quar-
antine your new arrival before introducing it to its new
environment so that you can watch for signs of any illness
the new koi might be carrying.
How to Quarantine Your Koi
A quarantine facility should provide a pond environment
on a smaller scale, but not too small. The more swimming
space you can afford your koi in quarantine, the better. Keep
equipment solely for use in the quarantine phase, and mark
it as such so that it doesn’t come into contact with your
main pond. Fish don’t have to come into contact with one
another to spread disease. Nets, hoses, or even your hands
can transfer pathogens from one container to another.
The length of the quarantine period is up to the individual
hobbyist: some koi keepers hold fish back from their ponds
for up to a year to minimize the risk, while others quarantine
for just a few weeks. Of course, the length of quarantine
is not the only issue. The care of the koi, the quality of its
accommodations, and other factors such as water qual-
ity and temperature all play a part in the manifestation
of illness.
Koi Compatibility
Koi are relatively docile fish that get along well with one
another but may have problems sharing a pond with more
aggressive or smaller types of fish.
Compatibility with Other Koi
Your biggest concern
when keeping multiple
koi is the size of your
pond. Koi of all differ-
ent varieties can hap-
pily share the same
space, but overcrowd-
ing reduces water
quality and stresses
the fish. As long as
there is ample room in
your pond to accom­
modate them, koi
kept together will be
peaceful and form so-
cial bonds that can last
their entire lifetime.
Compatibility with Other Types of Fish
Most koi owners only keep koi in their ponds, but you can
mix different types of fish with your koi as long as you
choose them properly. Koi can’t coexist with any larger or
more aggressive fish because they will either be eaten or
injured. Conversely, fish that are significantly smaller than
your koi are likely to be eaten themselves. Any fish you
select for your pond not only must be as peaceful as koi
but must also be capable of thriving in the environment
provided by your pond.
Before adding new species of fish to your pond, find out
everything you can about the type of fish you’re consider-
ing. Talk to other koi keepers, pet shop employees, and
anyone else you think could help you learn about whether
Koi
the fish you have in mind would be a suitable pondmate for
your koi. Even then, remember that each fish has its own
personality, and you must watch them carefully when kept
with other fish to see how they get along.
How to Feed Your Koi
Koi are omnivorous, meaning they feed on both plant and
animal material, although they tend to prefer aquatic in-
sects and larvae. However, few koi ponds contain aquatic
plants because the koi are typically the main focus of the
feature, and owners don’t like to distract from the fish. This
absence of plant life means you must provide your koi with
an adequate diet.
What to Feed Your Koi
Koi are enthusiastic eaters, but it’s up to you to provide your
fish with a balanced and nutritious diet to keep it healthy
and happy. You can feed your koi commercially available
food items, live insects, or a combination of both, as well as
occasional fresh foods, treats, and dietary supplements.
Commercial Foods
Prepared dry foods manufactured for use with koi are the
most common and convenient to give to your fish. These
products come in a variety of sizes and shapes, typically
pellets, granules, tablets, flakes, and chunks. They are easy
to use, relatively inexpensive, nutritious, and easily stored.
The best type and size of food to offer your koi depends
on its age, size, and even the time of year. For example,
smaller-sized pellets are usually given to koi two years of
age or younger, while large pellets are best for larger adult
koi. Also, koi require more protein in their diet during the
summer and less during the autumn and spring, so you
should feed products high in protein during warmer weather
and use a different food item (such as wheat germ sticks)
during the cooler months.
Changing suddenly to a new brand or different type of
food often results in a koi refusing to feed. When switching
from one type of food to another, always begin by mixing a
little of the new food in with the original one. Over a period
of 7–10 days, gradually increase the amount of new food and
reduce the original feed.
Live Foods
Insects and larvae make excellent additions to a koi’s diet,
although your koi pond is likely to attract insects on its own.
If you choose to offer your koi insects, then mealworms,
waxworms, bloodworms, blackworms, tubifex worms, and
soft-shelled crickets are all suitable food items. Feed insects
sparingly, and don’t feed them to your koi if you can’t guar-
antee they were collected in a pesticide-free environment.
Avoid stinging insects such as bees, wasps, and bit-
ing flies. Fireflies are also dangerous to feed your koi. The
chemicals that cause them to glow are toxic and can kill
your fish if ingested.
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Fresh Foods
Koi relish many fresh foods that provide vitamins and min-
erals. The following are some fresh foods you can offer your
koi. Keep in mind that these are meant to be occasional
treats and shouldn’t function as a dietary staple.
• Garlic: Koi love garlic and are attracted to any food
coated with it. Coating food with garlic is a good way
to entice your koi to eat out of your hand.
• Lettuce: Lettuce
is an excellent
treat for koi. At
first, serve lettuce
by shredding the
leaves yourself
and floating them
on the pond. After
several weeks,
you can float a
whole head of
lettuce on the
water, and your koi will enjoy tearing off the pieces on
its own. Once all the leaves have been eaten, remove
the stalk from the water.
• Oranges: Another koi favorite, oranges are an excellent
source of vitamin C, which helps reduce stress and
improves the immune system. You can serve these by
cutting them into segments and putting them in the
pond with the rind left intact. Your koi will tear away
the flesh, leaving the rind, which you should remove
once your fish is finished eating.
• Prawns: Koi thoroughly enjoy prawns, which are a
good source of protein. Feed these to your koi in the
summer, when the water temperature is higher and
your fish can better digest protein.
Additives and Supplements
Dietary additives can enhance the natural coloration of
your fish. In the summer, hobbyists often mix color-enhanc-
ing feeds, which typically contain shrimp meal and spirulina
extract, into their fish’s diet. However, the red color patterns
of koi are determined genetically, and although these color-
enhancing feeds provide the raw ingredients necessary to
enhance that color, if the red fades, these additives won’t
restore it.
Supplements boost the immune system and general
health of koi. Some of these supplements are already
incorporated into commercial foods, but manufacturers
have developed new and more effective products in pow-
dered form that you can mix with existing feeds. You may
want to speak to your veterinarian before introducing a
dietary supplement to your koi, however. Just as too little of
any nutrient can be dangerous for your pet, so can too much
of one be detrimental to its health.
Foods to Avoid
Certain foods often used with many other pond fish are not
suitable for koi. These include:
• Birdseed
• Bread
• Corn
• Peanuts
• Peas
• Rice
Bread-based foods and rice swell when exposed to water
and can cause an intestinal blockage in your fish. Corn, pea-
nuts, and seeds can also cause a blockage because koi can’t
digest them. Peas and other foods rich in carbohydrates can
lead to obesity in your fish.
Seasonal Feeding
The amount of food that koi consume varies according to
the season—or specifically, the temperature of their water.
Koi in heated ponds can have a regular, year-round diet
because they don’t have to adjust to a change in their water
temperature. In unheated ponds, koi are most active in the
summer and feed hungrily several times each day. With
optimum temperatures and food availability, this is the sea-
son in which koi grow the most rapidly. Conversely, in the
winter months, koi in unheated ponds consume little, and
their growth is very slow.
How to Feed During the Summer
Food consumed during the summer provides energy, aids
tissue maintenance and repair, spurs growth, and provides
nutrients the fish can store to help it survive the winter.
When water temperatures are 64–68°F (18–20°C), your koi
should eat a high-protein diet designed to promote growth.
In cooler temperatures, protein becomes more difficult for
a koi to digest and is simply excreted, which not only
does nothing to benefit your koi nutritionally but also pol-
lutes the pond water.
How to Feed in Autumn and Spring
As the water temperature drops in the cooler months, koi
appetites gradually decline. During this time, reduce the
amount of food you offer and gradually change from a high-
protein feed to a wheat germ–based diet, which is easier to
digest in lower temperatures.
At temperatures of less than 46–50°F (8–10°C), koi cease
to feed altogether. During the coldest periods of the year, a
koi in an unheated pond won’t feed at all and will rely on the
nutrients it’s already stored to last it through the winter. As
the weather turns warmer again and the koi begins seeking
out food, offer the wheat germ–based diet again and gradu-
ally mix it with the summer feed as the water warms up.
How Much to Feed
How much and how
often to feed your koi
depends on its age
and body temperature.
Koi fry (newly hatched
koi) and fish up to one
year old eat 5–10% of
their body weight on
days when the water temperature is around 68°F (20°C).
At these same temperatures, koi that are between one and
three years of age consume about 5% of their body weight
daily, and adult fish—three years of age or older—consume
about 2%. In other words, an adult koi weighing 2.2 pounds
(1 kg) should consume 0.7 oz (20 g) of food on a daily basis
in 68°F (20°C) weather.
A good rule of thumb to follow when feeding your koi is
to offer as much as your fish consumes within 2–3 minutes
at each feeding. When you first offer the food, you’ll notice
a surge of activity in your koi, but as it gets enough to eat
it will begin to feed more lazily. The point at which your fish
begins to feed more casually is the moment to stop adding
more food.
Koi
The Dangers of Overfeeding
Rather than feeding too much at once, it’s better to feed your
koi sparingly but frequently, and to offer more food only if
it’s consumed very quickly. Excess food won’t necessarily
harm your koi, but it doesn’t get digested efficiently and is
simply voided as a waste product. This excess waste pollutes
the water and places a burden on the filtration system.
If you spot any uneaten food in your koi pond, remove
it immediately. Uneaten food decomposes in the water,
producing toxins that diminish the quality of the water and
harm your fish.
How Often to Feed
At temperatures around 68°F (20°C), koi should eat 2–3
times a day. Koi living in colder temperatures (50–59°F or
10–15°C) require feeding only once a day. If you keep your
koi in a heated pond, feed it according to the temperature
of the water in which you keep it.
Koi Healthcare
Keeping koi is a re-
warding and enjoyable
hobby, but whenever
animals are held in a
captive environment,
there may be occa-
sions when one be-
comes sick. Most of
the illnesses a koi might experience are caused by poor
water conditions and stress, so taking proper care of your
pond and your fish should be enough to prevent most health
issues. Test your water regularly, ensure that the filters are
clean and well maintained, and observe your koi every day.
Watching and learning your koi’s normal behavior will help
you recognize signs of illness more readily.
You should also find a local veterinarian to whom you
can bring your fish should it become ill. When keeping other,
less expensive types of fish, aquarists can handle many
health problems themselves by raising the water tempera-
ture slightly, adding a small amount of salt, or by adminis-
tering medication. In the case of a koi, however, it’s best to
have professional help when dealing with health problems
to ensure that it receives the best treatment possible.
Hospital Container
Just as you would
quarantine a new fish
before introducing it
to a new pond, so
should you quarantine
a sick koi to prevent
it from infecting other
fish in the pond. The
hospital container should be large enough to comfortably
accommodate a single koi and should have a bare, easy-to-
clean setup that doesn’t offer parasites or other pathogens
places to hide and reproduce. Whenever you need to isolate
and treat a sick fish, you need only fill this container with
water from your pond to have it ready in minutes.
How to Administer Medication
On occasions when you need to treat a condition or illness
with medication, any medicine required by a single sick fish
should be administered in a hospital container. If you need
to treat your entire fish population, you can add the medi-
cine to your pond, but adding medicine to an environment
that contains one sick fish among several healthy ones can
hurt or kill the healthy fish and any live plants you might be
keeping in the pond.
Be sure to use the correct dose when administering
medication. Overmedicating the water runs the risk of creat-
ing stronger bacteria that are resistant to the medication.
 www.quamut.com
Signs of Illness
Paying regular attention to your fish and its behavior pat-
terns will make you more aware of small changes that may
be the first signs of illness. If you notice any of the following
symptoms in your koi, it is likely due to a health problem.
• Bloating or emaciation
• Folded or clamped fins
• Hanging from the surface of the water
• Lesions, spots, or bumps
• Loss of appetite
• Loss of luster
• Lying on the bottom of the pond
• Pale gills
• Ragged fins
• Rubbing against surfaces (“glancing”)
• Slow reaction to disturbances
• Sluggish or aimless swimming
Common Diseases and Conditions
Fish ailments are frequently misdiagnosed, and pet fish are
often overmedicated or treated with the wrong medications
as a result. If you suspect that your koi is sick, contact your
veterinarian to determine the illness and proper treatment,
but also check your water quality and address any environ-
mental problems that may be at the root of the illness.
The following are some of the conditions and illnesses
common to koi.
Bacterial and Fungal Infections
There are many spe-
cies of bacteria and
fungi that can infect
koi. Symptoms of bac-
terial infection include
open lesions and ulcer­
ations, while fungal in-
fections appear as a
gray, brown, or green (in severe cases) cottonlike web grow-
ing over the fish’s body. Both bacterial and fungal infections
can become dangerous, even fatal, but in some cases the
treatment can be more problematic than the infection itself.
Some medications are so strong that they can harm the fish.
If you think your koi has an infection, isolate it from other
fish immediately and contact your veterinarian to determine
the best method of treatment. However, the safest way
to combat infection is to prevent it from happening in the
first place. To do so, simply maintain suitable water quality
in your pond by keeping your filters clean and functioning
properly. And don’t overfeed your fish—this will keep un-
eaten food from decomposing inside the pond.
Fish Lice
Fish lice are small, round, free-swimming crustaceans
about 1/8" (3 mm) long. These tiny, saucer-shaped parasites
(known as Argulus) can be difficult to deal with because
they are fairly translucent and hard to see, and they fasten
themselves tightly against the body of the afflicted fish.
Once attached, they insert a short proboscis through the
skin to extract blood and other fluids from the host. They
are most often found on the belly and throat of a koi, and
occasionally at the base of the fins.
Infected koi may rub themselves against the walls of the
pond in an attempt to scrape the parasites from their bod-
ies, but doing so often causes more damage to the fish than
the parasites themselves. Infected areas appear inflamed
and flushed in color, and in severe cases, the fish can
become so weak that they die.
If you find lice on your fish, you can remove them indi-
vidually with a pair of tweezers, then treat the attachment
spot with commercially available medication. You’ll have
to repeat the treatment several times because the lice
lay rows of tiny eggs along the pond walls that hatch and
attach themselves to the fish. You can reduce the number of
eggs in the pond by tying pieces of plants or even twigs into
bundles and placing them in the water. Female lice will lay
their eggs on the bundles, and you can remove and destroy
them every week or so to gradually reduce the number of
lice hatching in the pond.
Ich
If your fish has white spots that almost make it look like it’s
been salted, a protozoan called ich (pronounced “ick”) is
most likely the culprit. Ich spots are formed by parasites
embedded in the fish’s skin. These parasites also attack
the gills, where they’re much more difficult to detect and
much more dangerous to the fish. Ich is common and highly
curable, but it’s also very contagious and usually fatal if
left untreated.
For most fish, you can often eliminate ich by raising the
water temperature and adding a bit of salt to the water.
However, with koi it’s best to consult a veterinarian, who
will give you medication that you can add to the water to
eliminate ich. Be very careful to add the correct dose to your
koi’s water, because too much can harm the fish.
You may be able to put a single afflicted fish in a hospital
container and treat it there, but chances are if you have one
fish infected with ich, the other fish in your pond are also
infected or will be soon, so it may be necessary to treat your
entire pond.
Injuries
Koi keepers commonly
notice injuries among
their fish. Injuries can
result from sharp rocks
in the pond, bad net-
ting, spawning activity,
being poorly transport-
ed, or predator attacks,
among other possible
causes. Obvious signs of injury include missing scales, red-
dened areas, split fins, and grazes on nonscaled areas such
as the mouth.
If spotted early, most injuries are easy to treat with
topical medications. However, if injuries go unnoticed for
a length of time, bacterial or fungal infections may develop
and require veterinary attention.
The best step to take to prevent the occurrence of injury
is to reduce the objects in the pond on which a koi can hurt
itself. If predators are the problem, consider netting the
pond or installing another type of deterrent device.
Koi Herpes Virus (KHV)
Koi herpes is a serious, potenially fatal disease that causes
significant mortalities among koi and carp populations. It
spread worldwide in a matter of years after first appearing
in 1996. The disease, which appears to affect only koi and
carp, spreads through feces and mucus, and is capable of
surviving outside of a host for at least four hours. This virus
is highly infectious and requires exposure of just a few min-
utes to spread to an uninfected koi.
Koi
The symptoms of KHV include rapid breathing; a patchy,
pimply white appearance on the skin; eroded gills; and
sunken eyes. There is no cure for this or any other viral
infection, but you can reduce the likelihood of your koi
contracting KHV by refraining from sharing equipment with
other hobbyists, disinfecting your own equipment regularly,
and quarantining any new fish you acquire (and keeping
equipment associated with your quarantine facility separate
from that used in your pond).
Stress
Stress, which can be brought on by many things, can lead to
serious illness or even death in koi. When a fish experiences
repeated or long-term stress, its immune system is compro-
mised and it becomes susceptible to many illnesses. If your
koi is not in optimal health, there is a good chance it’s being
exposed to stress in one form or another.
Potential Stress Factors
Most stressors for your fish are the product of its environ-
ment. If your fish is behaving abnormally, evaluate the way
you have been maintaining your pond.
• Have you been overfeeding your koi, and are you
feeding it the proper diet?
• Is your pond overcrowded? Overcrowding your koi can
cause a breakdown in water quality and place major
stress on inhabitants.
• Is the pond of a proper size for the fish you’re keeping?
• Are your biofilters properly maintained? Good bacteria
must flourish in abundance to keep up with ammonia
and nitrates in the pond, and poor water quality is a
major stressor for fish.
• Is the water temperature at the right level?
How to Maintain Water Quality
Nothing matters more to the health of a fish than proper
water conditions. Quality filters do an excellent job of pur­
ifying water in a pond, but changing the water regularly
removes impurities that even filters won’t remove.
Test your koi’s water quality at least once a week. It’s
easy to monitor ammonia and nitrite levels, which should
remain as close to zero as possible at all times in your fish’s
water. You can also purchase a test kit that shows results
categorized within ranges of “safe,” “concern,” and “dan-
ger.” If you ever get measurable levels of ammonia or nitrite
in your koi’s water, perform a water change immediately to
correct the situation and step up your changing regimen so
that it doesn’t happen again.
Water Changes
The best way to maintain healthy and clean pond water is
to change it regularly. Ideally, you should drain 20–50% of
the pond water and replace it with fresh water once a week,
and perform more substantial water changes on a monthly
basis. This is crucial even for very large ponds. Over time,
many chemicals and fish wastes build up in the water and
the pond becomes unhealthy.
Before adding fresh water to your pond, treat it chemi-
cally to remove chlorine and chloramines. You can do this
with products available from your local pet retailer or a
pond-supply catalog. Follow the manufacturer’s instruc-
tions carefully when using these products.